Thank you for your guidance in this video. I've successfully repaired my Mamiya lens with your help. The slowest speeds are still not quite correct, but now the lens is usable on most speeds and I can just compensate a bit for the inaccurate ones. It is great to have people like you sharing knowledge on RUclips.
This shutter is highly similar to the shutter in the fujinon S 100mm f/3.5 that I have for a fujica g690. Thanks for this video, it helped me get it back together when I forgot to take a few pictures. Apparently my shutter is a seiko #0 shutter for anyone’s reference.
Thank you for this informative video! My shutter is working well but I had oil on the aperture blades that was spreading to the shutter and causing it to stick. I was able to get inside and clean the blades and now everything is perfect.
heyyy, you saved my Mamiya c220, y have some newer version of the same 80mm 2.8, and your video was a gift to fix this beatiful an poetical toy, thanks for your work!
Great video and a big help in servicing a sticky cocking ring on my Mamiya C220 BlueDot. I might add that the small locking screw mentioned at 8 min 55 sec in does not come out on my camera. Instead it pivots slightly to orient the flat side so that the ring can then be removed. The previous owner tried to fix the cocking ring problem thinking the screw would come out and tore up the head on the screw pretty bad. Luckily not bad enough.
Thank you for making this video, I was able to use this as a guide to get the shutter working again on my 105mm lens for my C3. It just needed a good cleaning and a few drops of lube and now it's working flawlessly! Much appreciated!
Thanks for this video! It helped me save a lens that I thought was dead in the water - working perfectly again. Your video was very clear and helpful! I bought a C33 in pretty bad shape (torn bellows, stuck shutter advance, etc.) with the 80mm f2.8 lens for the princely sum of $75. Following your instructions I brought the lens back to life and the C33 is on eBay for parts - I may just get my money back and the 80mm lens for free :-)
Hi Kenneth, i watched this as a guide to help me work on my lens. Could you do another video showing how to clean off the haze that all mamiya tlr lenses suffer from. Many thanks for your continued camera guides.
This video saved my ass, picked up a C220 for a really nice price, but the lens was doing the same as yours. Panicking that I was going to have to purchase a different lens, I was afraid that I ended up on the losing side of the deal. I still think that my speed plate needs to be replaced, but at least I have a majority of the correct speeds working now.
I have attempted to repair this shutter by using another timer unit from another Seikosha-s. But that also failed. The stim that sticks up from the timer broke off. I will try to drill the broken section out with a Dremel tool in the near future. As of right now my 180mm 1:4.5 lens for my Mamiya C3 will not work in any timed setting higher than 1/15sec. The shutter will not return to its closed position if it set at 1/8-B. All other shutter speeds seem to be working. The aperture ring moves and functions as it should. I will say that your video has helped me tremendously in taking on this task. I have been able to repair two other lenses that are for my Mamiya Press. Thank you so very much and I will check in occassionally to see what you have covered.
Great video with a lot of useful hints ! Thanks for sharing! BTW : Mamiya Press lenses use the same shutter, this can be used as a raw model on those lenses too !
I have watched this a number of times. I am working on a Mamiya-Seikosha-s shutter for a 150mm TLR camera. I am able to get everything working except the shutter. It will not open and stay open in 'B" when I press and hold the shutter release. The lens fires in all positions as though it is operating in and above 1/250 - 1/500 in all positions. All internal gusts have been set up, in my opinion, just like your video and what your explanations point out. The video is great. I guess I am missing something as I go through the procedure.
great video. I'm getting ready to buy a C22 with this lens that has some slow gear dragging so maybe i will be brave enough to try something like this. I'm just wondering, couldn't one just dip the whole mechanism in alcohol and rinse all the dirt out and just wait for it to dry?
Thank's :-). Well, some people say that it is easy to drop the whole shutter in some solvent and let it stay there for 20min, and then let it dry, or maybe use compressed air, and in that way get all the old oil out... But in real life you will sooner get a problem because the shutter will get stuck, mostly in cold weather. Simply because you will NOT get all the old oil and grease out of the shutter, so it will be everywhere in the shutter, also where it should not be. SO, the short anserv is, the ONLY way to make it work again is to diassemble the whole shutter and clean it, then lube it and adjust it
Hi Kenneth, (not sure if you'll see this), but I have a Seikosha-s shutter that's missbehaving (the shutter blades briefly open before they should). The little lever that pushes the blades knocks them open when it falls after the heavy springed cam passes it. If you had any advice on fixing this issue I would be so grateful.
hi! Great video Mike ! can you make a video about shutter problem ! in my case my shutter doesnt move at all. other things seems moving fine! please help ! thanks !
Great video! Do you think I could use isopropyl alcohol instead of the lighter fluid? If you don't recommend it, could you please tell what kind of lighter fluid you are using? Thank you!
Hi Miken062: I have been watching your videos in regard to Mamiya TLRs. My C330 80mm Blue Dot lens is running slow, approximately 1 stop across the full range of shutter speeds. I removed the escapement, cleaned, lubed and reassembled. The shutter is now slower and almost stalls as it functions. The shutter is snappy. I disassembled again and have found what looks like a spring on the escapement at the end that articulates that is not fastened at one end. it wraps around the hinge post of the end that articulates. I have tried to find an image/exploded diagram of the in attempt to re attach it to the escapement. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Great video. I have a similar lens, but a different problem. While the shutter works fine, the speed dial is very stiff. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
It could be some old sticky oil or grease that prevent the speed dial to move freely, the only way to fix is to partly disassemble the shutter and take out the speed dial and clean it in lighter fluid.
I just bought a Mamiya C220 plus 55mm, 80 mm, 135 mm and 250 mm lenses at the biggest photoshop of Europe. The body and lenses had their CLA. The shutter of the 55 does not fire. The rest of the lenses have rotten apertures. What to do ......?
I admire your patience, skill, and knowledge, but most of all, you initiative. I'm more apprehensive to tackle projects like this than I might have been when I was younger, because I've had some mishaps and failures. My 80 and 135 lenses seem to still be ok, so far, but the 55 I have coming might need some attention. Do you know which of the lenses you've serviced are most similar in design and construction to the 55?
Well Scott, it all depence if there is dust, fungus, haze, or Oil film is on the lens element's, if there is some, I use lighter fluid or Isopropylalcohol 99%, and if there is haze I use cold creme and then clean the lens element with lighter fluid.If there is dust and other small fragment's I just use a airblower. CheersKenneth
Thank you so much. I just serviced my C220 Seiko shutter, very similar situation, sticky and slow. My lenses just needed cleaning with some Zeiss cleaner, so not too bad. My shutter speed for 1 second still seems slow, my adjustment I believe is inward at the maximum so maybe the slow gear needs more cleaning. I used clock oil for the lubrication, but just a very small amount. Overall these are good cameras indeed.
Great video! I bought an old Mamiya 80mm lens at a very low price. However, when I opened it, the slow escapement gear had no screw on the back and completely fell into pieces in my hands. Do you know if there’s a way or any manual that can help me reconstruct it? I know it’s not easy, but I’m really upset about losing an entire lens over just one module.
Thank you for your guidance in this video. I've successfully repaired my Mamiya lens with your help. The slowest speeds are still not quite correct, but now the lens is usable on most speeds and I can just compensate a bit for the inaccurate ones. It is great to have people like you sharing knowledge on RUclips.
I DID IT!!! Thank you 10,000 times over. Never would have attempted this without your video. Bless You!
I have the same issue with an 80mm f2.8 Blue Dot lens from my Mamiya C330s. Your videos are very helpful. Thanks for taking the time.
with the help of your knowledge and this video my 80mm 2.8 lens is back on the camera !! Couldn't have done it without it . . . THANKS SO MUCH
Even though this is a very specific video, for those of us with this type of lens its so very helpful and encouraging. Thanks very much.
Thanks to your Movier I've succeeded to repair my lenses.
Very helpful! Thanks a lot!
Very skilful workmanship.
This shutter is highly similar to the shutter in the fujinon S 100mm f/3.5 that I have for a fujica g690. Thanks for this video, it helped me get it back together when I forgot to take a few pictures. Apparently my shutter is a seiko #0 shutter for anyone’s reference.
Man you have almost all the videos I need...
I've got the same problem with the same shutter of my 3.5/105 mm Sekor lens, this video will be helpfull. Thanks !
Thank you for this informative video! My shutter is working well but I had oil on the aperture blades that was spreading to the shutter and causing it to stick. I was able to get inside and clean the blades and now everything is perfect.
That's great you get it to work again :-)
heyyy, you saved my Mamiya c220, y have some newer version of the same 80mm 2.8, and your video was a gift to fix this beatiful an poetical toy, thanks for your work!
Great video and a big help in servicing a sticky cocking ring on my Mamiya C220 BlueDot. I might add that the small locking screw mentioned at 8 min 55 sec in does not come out on my camera. Instead it pivots slightly to orient the flat side so that the ring can then be removed. The previous owner tried to fix the cocking ring problem thinking the screw would come out and tore up the head on the screw pretty bad. Luckily not bad enough.
Thank you for making this video, I was able to use this as a guide to get the shutter working again on my 105mm lens for my C3. It just needed a good cleaning and a few drops of lube and now it's working flawlessly! Much appreciated!
Wow. What skill you have.
Thanks for this video! It helped me save a lens that I thought was dead in the water - working perfectly again. Your video was very clear and helpful! I bought a C33 in pretty bad shape (torn bellows, stuck shutter advance, etc.) with the 80mm f2.8 lens for the princely sum of $75. Following your instructions I brought the lens back to life and the C33 is on eBay for parts - I may just get my money back and the 80mm lens for free :-)
Thanks for showing us this. Do you have any videos of adjusting timing?
Hi Kenneth, i watched this as a guide to help me work on my lens. Could you do another video showing how to clean off the haze that all mamiya tlr lenses suffer from. Many thanks for your continued camera guides.
This video saved my ass, picked up a C220 for a really nice price, but the lens was doing the same as yours. Panicking that I was going to have to purchase a different lens, I was afraid that I ended up on the losing side of the deal. I still think that my speed plate needs to be replaced, but at least I have a majority of the correct speeds working now.
I have attempted to repair this shutter by using another timer unit from another Seikosha-s. But that also failed. The stim that sticks up from the timer broke off. I will try to drill the broken section out with a Dremel tool in the near future. As of right now my 180mm 1:4.5 lens for my Mamiya C3 will not work in any timed setting higher than 1/15sec. The shutter will not return to its closed position if it set at 1/8-B. All other shutter speeds seem to be working. The aperture ring moves and functions as it should. I will say that your video has helped me tremendously in taking on this task. I have been able to repair two other lenses that are for my Mamiya Press. Thank you so very much and I will check in occassionally to see what you have covered.
Many thanks
This was amazing! Thank you!
Great vid and good close ups.
Great video with a lot of useful hints ! Thanks for sharing! BTW : Mamiya Press lenses use the same shutter, this can be used as a raw model on those lenses too !
Thanks for the info Klaus :-)
Thank You Mike, just cleaned a 65mm for a Mamiya Press . It is ( as for the shutter ) absolutely identical.
Nice one Mike, always wanted to know how these types of shutter works ! Excellent video once again :)
I have watched this a number of times. I am working on a Mamiya-Seikosha-s shutter for a 150mm TLR camera. I am able to get everything working except the shutter. It will not open and stay open in 'B" when I press and hold the shutter release. The lens fires in all positions as though it is operating in and above 1/250 - 1/500 in all positions. All internal gusts have been set up, in my opinion, just like your video and what your explanations point out. The video is great. I guess I am missing something as I go through the procedure.
Excellent video. I think I can do this if I have to. Thanks for posting.
What a video! Thank you sir!
Great video, thanks. If I should replace the slow shutter unit screws (the long and the short ones) what are the specifications of them?
Thank you! That was brilliant!
BRAVO
great video. I'm getting ready to buy a C22 with this lens that has some slow gear dragging so maybe i will be brave enough to try something like this. I'm just wondering, couldn't one just dip the whole mechanism in alcohol and rinse all the dirt out and just wait for it to dry?
Thank's :-). Well, some people say that it is easy to drop the whole shutter in some solvent and let it stay there for 20min, and then let it dry, or maybe use compressed air, and in that way get all the old oil out...
But in real life you will sooner get a problem because the shutter will get stuck, mostly in cold weather. Simply because you will NOT get all the old oil and grease out of the shutter, so it will be everywhere in the shutter, also where it should not be.
SO, the short anserv is, the ONLY way to make it work again is to diassemble the whole shutter and clean it, then lube it and adjust it
Hi Kenneth, (not sure if you'll see this), but I have a Seikosha-s shutter that's missbehaving (the shutter blades briefly open before they should). The little lever that pushes the blades knocks them open when it falls after the heavy springed cam passes it. If you had any advice on fixing this issue I would be so grateful.
hi! Great video Mike ! can you make a video about shutter problem ! in my case my shutter doesnt move at all. other things seems moving fine! please help ! thanks !
Great video! Do you think I could use isopropyl alcohol instead of the lighter fluid? If you don't recommend it, could you please tell what kind of lighter fluid you are using? Thank you!
Hi Miken062: I have been watching your videos in regard to Mamiya TLRs. My C330 80mm Blue Dot lens is running slow, approximately 1 stop across the full range of shutter speeds. I removed the escapement, cleaned, lubed and reassembled. The shutter is now slower and almost stalls as it functions. The shutter is snappy. I disassembled again and have found what looks like a spring on the escapement at the end that articulates that is not fastened at one end. it wraps around the hinge post of the end that articulates. I have tried to find an image/exploded diagram of the in attempt to re attach it to the escapement. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Great video. I have a similar lens, but a different problem. While the shutter works fine, the speed dial is very stiff. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
It could be some old sticky oil or grease that prevent the speed dial to move freely, the only way to fix is to partly disassemble the shutter and take out the speed dial and clean it in lighter fluid.
I just bought a Mamiya C220 plus 55mm, 80 mm, 135 mm and 250 mm lenses
at the biggest photoshop of Europe. The body and lenses had their CLA.
The shutter of the 55 does not fire. The rest of the lenses have rotten apertures.
What to do ......?
Hmm, well, I would think you should return them to the shop.
I admire your patience, skill, and knowledge, but most of all, you initiative. I'm more apprehensive to tackle projects like this than I might have been when I was younger, because I've had some mishaps and failures. My 80 and 135 lenses seem to still be ok, so far, but the 55 I have coming might need some attention. Do you know which of the lenses you've serviced are most similar in design and construction to the 55?
How to clean a stickey leaf 🍂 shutter should be the title here.
When removing the lens groups, do you generally clean the glass/fungus or dust? Thanks for another great video!
Well Scott, it all depence if there is dust, fungus, haze, or Oil film is on the lens element's, if there is some, I use lighter fluid or Isopropylalcohol 99%, and if there is haze I use cold creme and then clean the lens element with lighter fluid.If there is dust and other small fragment's I just use a airblower.
CheersKenneth
Thank you so much. I just serviced my C220 Seiko shutter, very similar situation, sticky and slow. My lenses just needed cleaning with some Zeiss cleaner, so not too bad. My shutter speed for 1 second still seems slow, my adjustment I believe is inward at the maximum so maybe the slow gear needs more cleaning. I used clock oil for the lubrication, but just a very small amount. Overall these are good cameras indeed.
Great video! I bought an old Mamiya 80mm lens at a very low price. However, when I opened it, the slow escapement gear had no screw on the back and completely fell into pieces in my hands. Do you know if there’s a way or any manual that can help me reconstruct it? I know it’s not easy, but I’m really upset about losing an entire lens over just one module.