Film Photography Black and White Paper Reversal
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2020
- In this video, I tried reversal processing of a Ilford Black and White Paper (Resin Coated (RC)) paper which is shot in a large format camera. In this manner, you will obtain a positive photo instead of a negative.
I used relatively simple to obtain chemicals such as
1. Ilford Multigrade RC paper - amzn.to/3dOII33
2. Ilford Multigrade Paper Developer - amzn.to/365Oivt
3. Potassium Permanganate - amzn.to/2TcVIYF or if you are in Singapore, you can get them from pharmacies like Watson, Guardian , Unity
4. Sodium Bisulfate (PH Reducer) - something like this can be used amzn.to/2WACBK9
or source out at your local swimming pool maintenance companies
5. Ilford Rapid Fixer - amzn.to/2WACBK9
Also check out my earlier video on Black & White Film Reversal at Home
• How to Process Black a... About me:
I have been doing fim photography, darkroom printing since 2003. Since then, I have also been doing alternative processes such as albumen printing, kallitype printing, wet plate and dry plate photography. My favorite cameras are the Nikon FM2 and Nikon F2 and my favorite films are Fomapan 100, Kodak Ektar, Fujifilm Velvia, Rollei Superpan. with The various genres of photography I enjoy doing are landscape photography, portrait photography,
Being new to RUclips, I appreciate the works of other film photographers on youtube, such as Willem Verbeeck, Matt Day, Bigheadtaco and many more
Thank you so much for posting your process. I copied one out that I found on Flickr a few years ago, bought some of the chemicals I was missing from my darkroom......and then did nothing. Your process is simpler and motivated me to finally give it a try. It worked perfectly the very first time using a basic 4x5 Calumet! Thank you so much. I'm now going to actually get some use out of four boxes of 5x7 paper which were delivered to me pre-fogged 😞 Your process kills the fog completely, where using benzotriazole in the darkroom for 'normal' prints simply failed to have any effect at all.
Now, of course, I'm going to have to build that 5x7 camera and darkroom box or Afghan/Velophot Camera so I can take this trick out on the road!
With much admiration and gratitude,
from Australia
glad to hear that it works for you. i believe the fog helps to lower the contrast of the photo which helps in this process. Enjoy!
@@AnaloguePT Under normal circumstances, I'd agree with you, but this paper stubbornly refused to be at all affected by my usual fog clearing efforts (I use a LOT of old paper) and I'd tried this in a pinhole camera in the past with the hope of making use of the fog to, as you said, lower the contrast. The fog stayed and the contact print was every bit as fogged as a print made from a film done under the enlarger. So, technically, yes, the fog killed the contrast, but not in a way that made a usable paper negative.
Your reversal process, however, completely cleared the whites. The two paper negatives I reversed came out astonishingly well and your recommendation of three stops overexposure was spot on. One of the photos was indoors by ambient window light and the other was of the exact same scene, lit by four pops of a flash at full power. Both turned out perfectly and you're getting all of the credit for that as I am generally terrible at flash metering. 😁 So, thank you again, I'm truly impressed by your efforts and grateful for the time you took to post your method online.
@@MolliGelf always happy to hear my videos help in one way or another. Enjoy shooting !
Hippolyte Bayard - and early photographic pioneer invented the paper reversal process. The French Gov't did not recognize his efforts- just having given a prize- stipend to Daguerre. I love this video- I tried the original process and made a poitive photogram, but never got the process fast enough to use in camera... Cannot wait to try this...
Love the content and the old style camera! Interesting to learn how to develop film with chemicals too.
Glad you enjoyed it! more to come
Hello, thank you VERY much for your informative tutorial. I was looking for a tutorial about reversing b&w ilford paper, and you made it very clearly. Keep on the good work.
Glad it was helpful! hope u are able to try it out too
Thanks for the video. This was really educational for me.
Glad U like it 😊
This is awesome my man. Love it
thanks for watching. yeah it was fun doing this. The trick is to overexpose by 2-3 stops.
Thank you so much for information on exposure. I was exposing as “normal“ and got black image. Now I understood that I need to overxpose it for 2 or 3 stops.
Yeah.. do try again and let us know the results.
@@AnaloguePTfinally I got fine results! thank you a lot agian! what could you recomend on exposure when shooting only paper negatives not reversal process? should I expose as "normal" (what is shown on lightmeter) or also overxpose it?
@@medenis8134 for paper negative, you can exposed per meter. some rated it as ISO 3, some as 6.
Nice video👌
Thank you
Thanks!
Welcome and than you for your Super Thanks. Much Appreciated.
Very cool! Thanks so much. What kind of tank are you using?? Also, do you know if potassium ferricyanide can be a substitute for potassium permanganate and sodium bisulfate?
the developing tank or tray is known as the Paterson Orbital Color processor. I never see a formula using potassium ferricyanide for reversal bleach so I am not sure abt it . But potassium permanganate is much easier to get here so I will stick to that.
Super informatics as always. Have you ever tried the method using peroxide and citric acid?
Thank you. Will be trying the hydrogen peroxide n citric acid bleach one soon. Only recently I learnt there is one recipe on the photrio site that performs well.
Very nice video I do a ver similar process only difference I do is that I use dektol ,peroxide and critric acid for bleach and don't used fixer , haven seen my images go away but o wonder if I should fix them as is supposed that all silver has been developed
yes that is what I read too but I found the fixing will clear up some of the yellow stains /tone too
Hi Brian, could you explain to us how you do your reversal process please? Thank's. Erasto Carranza.
Hi Brian! can you tell what kind of Hydrogen peroxide you use? Because I bought mine a 12% Peroxide use by beauty salon which is somewhat creamy in consistency. I don't know if this is the right stuff for bleaching. And how much dilution for citric acid? do you mix it directly to peroxide? Hope to hear from you and thanks for your time.
Hi Nice info ! btw do you need to agitate when using mix of bleach (potassium and sodium ) ?
Yes you do. we use low volume of chemicals here so we need to agitate them. in fact change them like 5 to 10 shots later if u find them not giving you the results.
Hi! Excellent video! I wanna know if you try whit peroxide and white vinager. Those bleach chemical are hard to get. Regards from Argentina
Thank u. Never try hydrogen peroxide and vinegar yet. A few of my friends did but little success. Maybe it is the concentration % or temperature.
Yesterday I started to play with FomapanR-100, this kit set is dedicated for developing negatives but seems to work with paper as well.
Finished with some smoke prints but I probably bleach to short. The reference times from for negatives are:
Developer A: 12min, Bleaching Bath: 8min, Cleaning Bath C: 3min, Rexposure 2x 30sec (1m 100W bulb), Developer A: 5 min, Fixer: 4min
For my foma variant paper 313 I tried to use:
I was doing contact 4x5'' prints with 'normal exposure' (I would use this time to do normal positive prints, maybe I should give it more light ?)
A: 2min, B: 1min, C: 0.5min, A: 2min - with some smoke/mist on prints (not clean whites) probably to short bleach but as I put out my print from bleach it seems to be completely washed out as expected (maybe not good indicator of successful bleach bath :).
Sharing my thoughts, maybe it will help someone, thank you for this video. Cheers !
Thanks for sharing. Sound like U having a good time with processing.
Awesome information, thank you very much 👍. Can you tell me if you can only use the Potassium permanganate and still works? And if you can use muriatic acid instead of sodium bisulfate? Thank you very much. Cheers 👍
Thank you. You will need both potassium permanganate and sodium bisulfate to make the bleach. It a old formula so I would follow it exactly. I just read potassium permanganate will produce toxic chlorine gas when mix with muriatic acid so be careful of that. I would only mix proven working formula and read all MSDS before mixing.
@@AnaloguePT I'm just asking because I have a friend that say we don't need use the sodium bisulfate, but I never try it yet. And in the link you have, they saying ph reducer and muriatic acid alternative.
*sodium bisulfate | muriatic acid replacement "not alternative"
That is Cool.. do share if you find out anything more.
Hello,
I am trying your way as your way seemed to be far more simpler than the other ones I have found.
I tried with
A/ with open trays in a darkroom
B/ used some C-41 blix as bleach (might try some RA-4 bleach)
And you guessed it, no success.
The image disappears and the paper returns to "white" but second exposure + development doesn't make a positive (if do look very very closely I see something appearing)
if I got the right bleach could I still do A???
And do you have other suggestions for bleach, the way you use it??
Since you are doing it in open trays in the darkroom, do you see a very dark negative after the 1st developing stage (before bleach?) It should be very dark since it is overexposed by a few stops. If so then at least we know the 1st developing is correct.
I never try with C41 blix but since it is a bleach + fixer then it would have fixed the paper which is why the 2nd development has no effect on the paper. Are you able to try with the potassium permanganate + sodium bisulfate bleach? these 2 chemcials should be easier to get. Sodium bisulfate is used a PH reducer in swimming pools. RA4 bleach ( with no fixer) might work but I have not try before.
Hello, good work. The paper is a normal photography paper or it must be a positive direct paper?
for reversal processing, we will use normal photo paper. If using positive direct paper then dev,stop, fit will do. Thank you for watching!
Amazing photo
Is there any Alternative bleach
Like a cleaning bleach
Any bleach that is available in any store?
thank you. no, chlorine based cleaning bleach won't work here. there are a few bleach formula but i think the potassium permanganate based bleach is the easiest.
Another youtube photographer uses iron (III) chloride + diluted ammoniac as bleach for a film reversal process. Those are fairly safe chemicals. I don't know if it's usable for paper.
The most popular one used to be sulphuric acid + potassium dichromate but this is EXTREMELY toxic. Cannot be flushed down the drain. Dichromate causes cancer (hexavalent chromium in it). Do NOT use it unless you have real professional lab safety standards, no leaks and droplets anywhere etc.
Hello, This IS te first time I try This process . When I bleach IS very fast, in a few seconds IS bleached and the paper IS white after that I expose and in the 2° development doesnt
Apears no image. I dont know whats the prblem
So after 2nd development, is the paper black or it is white?
@@AnaloguePT It was White, but now It goes OK
I confused with the chemicals sorry
Thank you very much for your videos
@@mikelalmazor181 good to hear that. enjoy!
Maybe can make a custom paper holder to avoid cutting. 1000, 2000, haha 😆 sound so military.
haha or make a rig to make paper cutting easier.
Or get a 5x7 film holder and back and do not cut at all.
No fixing? Btw, thanks for this video. it is really great.
Not in this video but it is good to fix in case there is any residual silver left in the paper.
@@AnaloguePT Thanks a lot!
@@AnaloguePT Btw, what is the light source you use for the second exposure?
@@reynaldocastaneda4712 just daylight u can use i opened the tank at 10:30. maybe 30 secs or so and then can redevelop. otherwise a bathroom light will also be fine.
@@AnaloguePT Thanks! Btw I would like to address you by your name if I may ask.
Get a paper cutter sir much easier and cleaner lines and edges
yes i have bought a paper cutter since then.
@@AnaloguePT I use to be lab tech carry my own sharpest blad small 6x8 carry my own printing lens
@@1911geek that is cool. u must be those who take one look at the projected image on the easel and can do a straight print without doing test strips.
@@AnaloguePT You could make just one cut on the 5x7" paper to create a 4x5" piece -- by just cutting the 7" dimension to 4", leaving the 5" length unchanged. The remaining piece would be 3x5", pretty useful for pre-shoot testing.
@@robbieandersondop6450 yes that is the most obvious thing to do. not sure why did i do 2 cuts in this video, i must be not thinking straight then. thanks for watching!