Thank you for this video. My repair man said that he wont do this because it will take him all day, then said that fix can be done for 400pln (~100$) which is a lot of money in my country. Actually i can buy a working one for this money. But I looked for my black one for 3 years, and im not going to give up and just put it on a shelf. I will uptade about results of repair
you are very lucky that your shutter come good again. i've tried that with no luck. i believe there is some light seal foam between the shutter assembly and an other part, what degrades and migrates on the blades.
That is a possibility, although somewhat remote. Persistence and patient usually prevail over luck. But, a bit ironically, as is often the case someone's bad luck is someone else's good luck. Maybe your "bad luck" will bring the "good luck" of more work for the local vintage camera repair shop. Anyway, it could be there are other issues with the shutter or simply that the blades are being stubborn. You might have to remove the shutter/lens plate, remove the rear lens and flush clean as a last resort before completing a proper shutter repair. ruclips.net/video/P57xV0mz8mI/видео.html
I tried this, but my GIII has two lens elements? Your video showed the lens coming out in one piece. Mine still has a glass element installed that has no apparent tabs to unscrew
I have a slight different problem. I was in the process of cleaning the lens and unscrewed the wrong part and ended up detaching only the lens from the camera body and not the rest that comes along with it as you showed on this video. I tried to reinstall the lens and it is attached but the shutter release button seems to no longer be engaging the shutter. Is there any way you could help me with this?
I got mine back in July. The meter didn't work so I took a chance and opened it up. The battery lead was frayed so I soldered a new one. Cleaned the viewfinder and all the glass. All is well with the universe now. Lol.
@@FixOldCameras Because of the repair i am able to use the camera on A mode. But i recently noticed something i hadn't before. And that is, when in A mode if the meter says f1.7 and i press the shutter, the aperture stops down to a little over f2. I played with the shutter speeds to see if that would affect it but it doesn't. In A mode i could never get 1.7 to open as it should, but when in manual mode f1.7 is completely wide open. Would this be because of the battery which is a 1.4v? Thanks.
This is a "quick and dirty fix" that I fulfilled on some Canonet's. Unfortunately it won't always fix the issue "forever". I had to reopen and clean mine a couple of times as I was not able to get rid of all the oil inside without full disassembly of the shutter mechanism.
Hello! Any advice on how to fix connection to an external flash. I tried connecting mg flash through hot shoe and even through the sync cord, but it won't work. I have a Canonet QL17 GIII too.
So can alcohol remove gummy oil too? I have a Petri 2.8. The shutter worked occasionally but the shutter speed timing gears don't engage for the set speeds. I've found that the timing post won't engage the cam ring so I have only bulb setting or the fastest setting which is 1/300th sec and it's not consistent. I've read that Ronsonal lighter fluid works at removing old oil but I'd rather have an alternative. Oh and the colder the camera is the worse the shutter sticking gets.
ruclips.net/video/P57xV0mz8mI/видео.html Yes alcohol or contact cleaner of the variety featured in the linked FOC video. www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcameras Please be advised that some of the links provided are affiliate links and a small commission is received by the creator of this channel if you make a purchase using these links. This adds no extra expense to your purchase. Your support of this channel is appreciated . Thank you for making any purchases through the links on this channel.
Any advice on Aperture blade sticking? My canonet can change from F1.7 to F16 smoothly, but when I tried F16 to F1.7 The aperture ring seems to get stuck and I have to fire the shutter to make it move a little bit till it came to F1.7, btw great vids.
Hello there, I tried this tutorial out, but once I got to removing the lens, it loosened the lens into pieces, not the entire lens together. Any tips on how to get the entire lens assembly out? Thank you!
Yes that happens sometimes. You can try reinstalling the upper outer ring a little tighter with a drop of lock tight blue. Seep some alcohol around threads of where the lens group attaches to the shutter and try again in 24 hours.
Thanks for the video. I am only able to take out the front element, but it doesn't come out as a group. Is that normal? Do you know a fix for that? Or is there another way - maybe through the back - to access the shutter? Thanks!
The front group needs to be removed. When the only the first element comes loose, you will need to access the front group so that a friction wrench can be used on the group housing. If you take out the elements individually you run the risk of getting the glass flipped, smudged, or out of order upon reassembly.
@@FixOldCameras Can you please expand on this explanation. I have the same issue - after I removed the ring only the front lens of the element comes out leaving the back lens and the rest of the element housing still in front of the shutter. BTW thanks very much for posting this video!
Any advice on fixing the film advance lever? Typically it's about 90 degrees or more to advance the film, but mine will push past this point which feels like it's just slipping as then it does not return to its normal seated position against the camera. I'm having trouble getting the retaining ring off of the film advanced lever.
The advance mechanism is not overly complicated. By removing the top cover, bottom plate and front shutter/lens plate assembly you will be able to inspect the advance functionality and probably determine the source of the malfunction. Remove the bottom cover first and inspect. Proceed to the top cover and inspect, and finally the front plate assembly. Use heat from a soldering iron on the advance lever to help it break free. If you do not have a friction wrench, this DIY wrench will do the job. ruclips.net/video/69ZtQ4ESxhM/видео.html
@@FixOldCameras thank you yes I will need to find a way to remove that retaining ring somehow. I should just buy a friction tool. The film lever is advancing the film oh, but then it just slips past the full advancement point. I'm sure I can figure it out once I get that ring off. It's really stuck on there.
@@GrandmasterBBC Persistence and patience... they can be very stubborn. Trying to apply heat from a soldering iron against the ring can be daunting as to the close proximity of the plastic release button. Great care and a spare button is advisable if you go that route. Success is inevitable, but at the possible sacrifice of the appearance the plastic ringing the shutter button. Otherwise, keep seeping alcohol around the threads. Watch for an FOC video that will address one way to deal with a retainer ring when you do not want to mess with fashioning or acquiring a proper fitting friction wrench.
The Sekonic L-398A operates from an amorphous silicon photocell, unlike the original L-398 which operates from a Selenium cell. Both are repairable. For more information. phototronic.biz/service
the only video on the internet showing how to re-place the stubborn focusing mask. Thank you!!
thank you for this video i am trying to learn the ropes of classic camera repair and your channel is a goldmine !
Thank you for your interest in FOC. And hopefully this channel will help you on your camera repair journey.
Subscribed and set notifications for your videos and YT never showed me this. Glad I found it. Thanks!
Very good. Thank you for the comment.
Thank you for this video. My repair man said that he wont do this because it will take him all day, then said that fix can be done for 400pln (~100$) which is a lot of money in my country. Actually i can buy a working one for this money. But I looked for my black one for 3 years, and im not going to give up and just put it on a shelf. I will uptade about results of repair
Thank you for your comments and for your interest in FOC. Persistence and patience hopefully pays off for you.
Thanks!, very helpful.
Thank you for your interest in FOC.
Happy Thanksgiving , Informative video as always.
Thank you. Wishes of good cheer to you and yours.
you are very lucky that your shutter come good again. i've tried that with no luck. i believe there is some light seal foam between the shutter assembly and an other part, what degrades and migrates on the blades.
That is a possibility, although somewhat remote. Persistence and patient usually prevail over luck. But, a bit ironically, as is often the case someone's bad luck is someone else's good luck. Maybe your "bad luck" will bring the "good luck" of more work for the local vintage camera repair shop. Anyway, it could be there are other issues with the shutter or simply that the blades are being stubborn. You might have to remove the shutter/lens plate, remove the rear lens and flush clean as a last resort before completing a proper shutter repair. ruclips.net/video/P57xV0mz8mI/видео.html
I tried this, but my GIII has two lens elements? Your video showed the lens coming out in one piece. Mine still has a glass element installed that has no apparent tabs to unscrew
I have a slight different problem. I was in the process of cleaning the lens and unscrewed the wrong part and ended up detaching only the lens from the camera body and not the rest that comes along with it as you showed on this video. I tried to reinstall the lens and it is attached but the shutter release button seems to no longer be engaging the shutter. Is there any way you could help me with this?
I got mine back in July. The meter didn't work so I took a chance and opened it up. The battery lead was frayed so I soldered a new one. Cleaned the viewfinder and all the glass. All is well with the universe now. Lol.
Perfect. Good to hear of your successful repair.
@@FixOldCameras Because of the repair i am able to use the camera on A mode. But i recently noticed something i hadn't before. And that is, when in A mode if the meter says f1.7 and i press the shutter, the aperture stops down to a little over f2. I played with the shutter speeds to see if that would affect it but it doesn't. In A mode i could never get 1.7 to open as it should, but when in manual mode f1.7 is completely wide open. Would this be because of the battery which is a 1.4v? Thanks.
This is a "quick and dirty fix" that I fulfilled on some Canonet's. Unfortunately it won't always fix the issue "forever". I had to reopen and clean mine a couple of times as I was not able to get rid of all the oil inside without full disassembly of the shutter mechanism.
Indeed your comments are spot on. When practical or possible a proper repair is preferable. Thank you for your continued interest in FOC.
The best
Hello! Any advice on how to fix connection to an external flash. I tried connecting mg flash through hot shoe and even through the sync cord, but it won't work. I have a Canonet QL17 GIII too.
Went to do this fix and some previous owner had superglued the retainer and name plate. Man that pissed me off.
Great video! Thanks! :D
Thank you for your comment.
I am trying to clean fungus out of my lens, the lens "screw" is stuck and the metal is warping instead of unscrewing. What should I do? (0:50)
So can alcohol remove gummy oil too? I have a Petri 2.8. The shutter worked occasionally but the shutter speed timing gears don't engage for the set speeds. I've found that the timing post won't engage the cam ring so I have only bulb setting or the fastest setting which is 1/300th sec and it's not consistent. I've read that Ronsonal lighter fluid works at removing old oil but I'd rather have an alternative. Oh and the colder the camera is the worse the shutter sticking gets.
ruclips.net/video/P57xV0mz8mI/видео.html
Yes alcohol or contact cleaner of the variety featured in the linked FOC video.
www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcameras
Please be advised that some of the links provided are affiliate links and a small commission is received by the creator of this channel if you make a purchase using these links. This adds no extra expense to your purchase. Your support of this channel is appreciated . Thank you for making any purchases through the links on this channel.
Any advice on Aperture blade sticking? My canonet can change from F1.7 to F16 smoothly, but when I tried F16 to F1.7 The aperture ring seems to get stuck and I have to fire the shutter to make it move a little bit till it came to F1.7, btw great vids.
Check the blades for residual oil that might have migrated on to the blades.
ruclips.net/video/ebJaE-Cb2BU/видео.html
Hello there, I tried this tutorial out, but once I got to removing the lens, it loosened the lens into pieces, not the entire lens together. Any tips on how to get the entire lens assembly out? Thank you!
Yes that happens sometimes. You can try reinstalling the upper outer ring a little tighter with a drop of lock tight blue. Seep some alcohol around threads of where the lens group attaches to the shutter and try again in 24 hours.
Thanks for the video. I am only able to take out the front element, but it doesn't come out as a group. Is that normal? Do you know a fix for that? Or is there another way - maybe through the back - to access the shutter? Thanks!
The front group needs to be removed. When the only the first element comes loose, you will need to access the front group so that a friction wrench can be used on the group housing. If you take out the elements individually you run the risk of getting the glass flipped, smudged, or out of order upon reassembly.
Did you happen to figure it out? Mine also didn't come out as a group.
@@FixOldCameras Can you please expand on this explanation. I have the same issue - after I removed the ring only the front lens of the element comes out leaving the back lens and the rest of the element housing still in front of the shutter. BTW thanks very much for posting this video!
@@n9n9n9n9n9n9n9n9 The lens group came apart on you rather than coming out as a unit.
@@FixOldCameras Yes just the front lens came off of the element
Any advice on fixing the film advance lever? Typically it's about 90 degrees or more to advance the film, but mine will push past this point which feels like it's just slipping as then it does not return to its normal seated position against the camera. I'm having trouble getting the retaining ring off of the film advanced lever.
The advance mechanism is not overly complicated. By removing the top cover, bottom plate and front shutter/lens plate assembly you will be able to inspect the advance functionality and probably determine the source of the malfunction. Remove the bottom cover first and inspect. Proceed to the top cover and inspect, and finally the front plate assembly. Use heat from a soldering iron on the advance lever to help it break free. If you do not have a friction wrench, this DIY wrench will do the job. ruclips.net/video/69ZtQ4ESxhM/видео.html
@@FixOldCameras thank you yes I will need to find a way to remove that retaining ring somehow. I should just buy a friction tool. The film lever is advancing the film oh, but then it just slips past the full advancement point. I'm sure I can figure it out once I get that ring off. It's really stuck on there.
@@GrandmasterBBC Persistence and patience... they can be very stubborn. Trying to apply heat from a soldering iron against the ring can be daunting as to the close proximity of the plastic release button. Great care and a spare button is advisable if you go that route. Success is inevitable, but at the possible sacrifice of the appearance the plastic ringing the shutter button. Otherwise, keep seeping alcohol around the threads. Watch for an FOC video that will address one way to deal with a retainer ring when you do not want to mess with fashioning or acquiring a proper fitting friction wrench.
Hey can you fix analog light meters like the sekonic l398A?
The Sekonic L-398A operates from an amorphous silicon photocell, unlike the original L-398 which operates from a Selenium cell. Both are repairable. For more information. phototronic.biz/service