Your welcome. Also, I might want to add that on this crappy Brazilian carburetor. The electromagnetic cut off jet, worked sporadically. But that was in an earlier video. So I didn’t cover it here.
Many thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. As a tip you can tune and adjust your valves sequentially 1-2-3-4 if you turn the engine anti clockwise, starting from 1 at Tdc and rotor on distributor mark.
OkFixer yeah unfortunately it doesn’t take much to clog them up. I always wanted to buy one of them ultrasonic cleaners from Harbor freight and see what they work like.
It's possible that the seal is leaking, it sat for over 20 years and it's not a silicone seal. Did the seal surface on the flywheel have any rust on it ? Did you leave the "O"-ring in the flywheel recess off ? How much oil is in the engine, should be only 5 pints.
My 75 super beetle was running great and I asked my son to change the oil... it was overfill alot, and I started it up(assuming all was good) It started running funny and I turned it off. Then I checked the oil, drained a couple quarts and tried to start it again. Wouldn't start. Replaced plugs, wouldn't start. Torqued the heads, 3 and 4 side was loose. Replaced rockers and adjusted the valves. Checked timing...good. Car starts but won't idle. Replaced carb. New carb, car starts, won't idle. Followed all directions to set idle. Anyone got any ideas?
I wrote out a whole 10 paragraphs on this. And then RUclips decided that I couldn’t comment. And shut it off. So I’m having to write this in my email, copy and paste it here. I guess it is a lesson learned. First, you say you have a 75 super beetle. This should be fuel injected. And if it is carbureted, then I would assume you have a hodgepodge of pieces on your engine. Maybe you have an older engine with all the correct pieces? I don’t know. But the first thing I want to address his compression. You say your engine was full of oil. It probably leaked past the rings. Into the combustion chamber. When the piston come up. It probably popped the seal between your cylinder head and your cylinder. But the first thing I want to address his compression. You say your engine was full of oil. It probably leaked past the rings. Into the combustion chamber. When the piston come up. It probably popped the seal between your cylinder head and your cylinder. A compression gauge test is the first thing I would do. Do you want to see at least 100 pounds in each cylinder. 130 would be better. They need to all be even also. So if you have 60 pounds in one cylinder and 100 and all the rest. You’re going to have to operate. If that is the case, and you can see where it is obviously leaking. And your valves are adjusted correctly. Then you will have to take the engine out and apart. A lot of labor is involved. But not a lot of parts. Provided everything is correct on your engine. If you have a compression leak, I would take the engine out take it apart and I would Hone the heads Sealing surface with another old cylinder and some valve grinding compound. I would carefully examine your cylinder heads sealing surface And the cylinders. I would also take a wire wheel to the valve faces. And the tops of the pistons. And clean them all up nicely. I would check for pulled studs as well. And have them reset if necessary. Because if the studs are pulling from the block. The head will not be able to be tightened. While I have it apart I would replace every gasket and rubber seal with quality parts from Wolfsburg west. Or German parts. I would also clean the heat riser, and make sure you have a functioning original exhaust with peashooter tips. The left peashooter is critical, as far as how far it goes in the muffler. Because it draws vacuum, Baroilis principal…… from the right side, preheating the mixture. I know it is a lot to do. It just requires a lot of hand work. Use some spray copper gasket sealant on your intake and exhaust gaskets. Buy new intake seals. Sand and repaint your exhaust with some high temp paint. And replace the rear main seal as well as check the end play of the crank. When you put everything together, every rubber gasket part use Permatex aviation brown sealant. No. 2 Every seal on the push rod tubes, head, and pushrod tubes themselves. Yes, it’s a lot to do but then you’re done. Now, to address all the accessories on your engine. Your fuel pump, carburetor and distributor all work in tandem. They need to all be original parts. Volkswagen parts. German parts. No Chinese no Brazilian. Sparkswerkz and Volkzbitz have them. Pricey For all 3 correct parts it will set your back $750 But then you’re done. It will not be the carburetor, distributor or fuel pump as your problem. For 100,000 miles. Those guys do wonderful work, and present you with a like new part when they’re done. And they are correct. If you still demand to use aftermarket Chinese parts. And expect your engine to run as it did from the factory. I don’t know what to tell you. Except this Both of my cars, the 67 and 69. Have all the correct parts that I could gather. I made it as close as I could to original. Including the spark plugs. Those Russian spark plugs that you bought that have the R designation. This means they are resistor spark plugs. So you’re resisting the amount of current going to them. These cars were not meant to run on resistor spark plugs. I know they say Bosch. Find some original ones. Or NGK makes non-resistor spark plugs for your car. They’re cheap and they work fine. Both of my cars run perfectly. They do not hiccup or traphaz. They get good mileage, do not get hot….and so far….not one drop of oil leaking. If you find out you do not have a compression problem, write me back. AND I am assuming you have a Dual Port engine. Mine are Single port engines. Quite alike though.
About 1.8 inches for 67 3.4 inches for 68/69 The orange book you gave me has a bunch of pages missing in the engine section, so I can’t tell you what your cars parameters are. Yes, they look too far out...but nope, they are not. It is highly possible they are the wrong parts. I will investigate that. Did they make different length exhaust tips?
Yup, but those were German tips. Who knows what length the one you get now are. I sent you an e-mail on how I do it. If you don't install them to the correct depth your intake manifold pre-heater won't draw, then it'll coke up, and your car will consistently run rich.
@@brianallen9810 the 50-67 tips are 260 mm.... I think, and the 68 and up are 245 mm. And mine measure a little better than 10 inches (260 mm) German or Chinese....still the same length. Measure yours....how long are they? So, if I place my 260 mm tips, in the exhaust 1.8 inches, and you were to place your 245 mm tips about 3.4 inches (per the book) You would see how mine stick out a little farther than the ones on your 73
Great vid on troubleshooting and how to be sure car is tuned up correctly. Your video covers so much! Really appreciate it!
Your welcome. Also, I might want to add that on this crappy Brazilian carburetor.
The electromagnetic cut off jet, worked sporadically.
But that was in an earlier video. So I didn’t cover it here.
Many thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. As a tip you can tune and adjust your valves sequentially 1-2-3-4 if you turn the engine anti clockwise, starting from 1 at Tdc and rotor on distributor mark.
I turn the engine clockwise just to observe the 1432 timing.....just for the video
Thank you, I've had similar issues with my 1965. It's always a simple fix, just a PITA to diagnose 😁
Thanks again for another great and very informative video. Keep up the great work, we appreciate you. VWs for life
right on!
Thanks a lot again for the info you provide with your own nice way. THANKS AGAIN.
Oh it don’t take much to plug the jet. I switched out to a 60 idle jet on my last one, and it idled perfect. I think it’s the crap fuel now sometimes
Yes, there wasn’t much in the float bowl...but enough to stop it up.
OkFixer yeah unfortunately it doesn’t take much to clog them up. I always wanted to buy one of them ultrasonic cleaners from Harbor freight and see what they work like.
@@SladesVWBeetle I would like one also.
OkFixer I watched a lot of guys using them. They do seem to work
@@SladesVWBeetle 😀😀
It's possible that the seal is leaking, it sat for over 20 years and it's not a silicone seal. Did the seal surface on the flywheel have any rust on it ? Did you leave the "O"-ring in the flywheel recess off ? How much oil is in the engine, should be only 5 pints.
Yeah, going to have to study that more. Nope, new o ring. Oil? 9 quarts, I think....it’s coming out of the rear pulley. 🤪🤪🤪
👍
Thanks bro, havin the same problem
My 75 super beetle was running great and I asked my son to change the oil... it was overfill alot, and I started it up(assuming all was good) It started running funny and I turned it off. Then I checked the oil, drained a couple quarts and tried to start it again. Wouldn't start. Replaced plugs, wouldn't start. Torqued the heads, 3 and 4 side was loose. Replaced rockers and adjusted the valves. Checked timing...good. Car starts but won't idle. Replaced carb. New carb, car starts, won't idle. Followed all directions to set idle. Anyone got any ideas?
I wrote out a whole 10 paragraphs on this. And then RUclips decided that I couldn’t comment. And shut it off. So I’m having to write this in my email, copy and paste it here.
I guess it is a lesson learned.
First, you say you have a 75 super beetle. This should be fuel injected. And if it is carbureted, then I would assume you have a hodgepodge of pieces on your engine. Maybe you have an older engine with all the correct pieces? I don’t know.
But the first thing I want to address his compression. You say your engine was full of oil. It probably leaked past the rings. Into the combustion chamber. When the piston come up. It probably popped the seal between your cylinder head and your cylinder.
But the first thing I want to address his compression. You say your engine was full of oil. It probably leaked past the rings. Into the combustion chamber. When the piston come up. It probably popped the seal between your cylinder head and your cylinder.
A compression gauge test is the first thing I would do. Do you want to see at least 100 pounds in each cylinder. 130 would be better. They need to all be even also. So if you have 60 pounds in one cylinder and 100 and all the rest. You’re going to have to operate.
If that is the case, and you can see where it is obviously leaking. And your valves are adjusted correctly. Then you will have to take the engine out and apart.
A lot of labor is involved. But not a lot of parts. Provided everything is correct on your engine.
If you have a compression leak, I would take the engine out take it apart and I would Hone the heads Sealing surface with another old cylinder and some valve grinding compound. I would carefully examine your cylinder heads sealing surface
And the cylinders. I would also take a wire wheel to the valve faces. And the tops of the pistons. And clean them all up nicely. I would check for pulled studs as well.
And have them reset if necessary. Because if the studs are pulling from the block. The head will not be able to be tightened.
While I have it apart I would replace every gasket and rubber seal with quality parts from Wolfsburg west. Or German parts. I would also clean the heat riser, and make sure you have a functioning original exhaust with peashooter tips. The left peashooter is critical, as far as how far it goes in the muffler. Because it draws vacuum, Baroilis principal…… from the right side, preheating the mixture.
I know it is a lot to do. It just requires a lot of hand work.
Use some spray copper gasket sealant on your intake and exhaust gaskets. Buy new intake seals. Sand and repaint your exhaust with some high temp paint. And replace the rear main seal as well as check the end play of the crank.
When you put everything together, every rubber gasket part use Permatex aviation brown sealant. No. 2
Every seal on the push rod tubes, head, and pushrod tubes themselves.
Yes, it’s a lot to do but then you’re done.
Now, to address all the accessories on your engine.
Your fuel pump, carburetor and distributor all work in tandem. They need to all be original parts. Volkswagen parts. German parts. No Chinese no Brazilian.
Sparkswerkz and Volkzbitz have them. Pricey
For all 3 correct parts it will set your back $750
But then you’re done. It will not be the carburetor, distributor or fuel pump as your problem. For 100,000 miles. Those guys do wonderful work, and present you with a like new part when they’re done. And they are correct.
If you still demand to use aftermarket Chinese parts. And expect your engine to run as it did from the factory. I don’t know what to tell you. Except this
Both of my cars, the 67 and 69. Have all the correct parts that I could gather. I made it as close as I could to original. Including the spark plugs. Those Russian spark plugs that you bought that have the R designation. This means they are resistor spark plugs. So you’re resisting the amount of current going to them. These cars were not meant to run on resistor spark plugs. I know they say Bosch. Find some original ones. Or NGK makes non-resistor spark plugs for your car. They’re cheap and they work fine.
Both of my cars run perfectly. They do not hiccup or traphaz. They get good mileage, do not get hot….and so far….not one drop of oil leaking.
If you find out you do not have a compression problem, write me back.
AND I am assuming you have a Dual Port engine. Mine are Single port engines. Quite alike though.
It looks as if your exhaust tips are not installed far enough.
About 1.8 inches for 67
3.4 inches for 68/69
The orange book you gave me has a bunch of pages missing in the engine section, so I can’t tell you what your cars parameters are.
Yes, they look too far out...but nope, they are not.
It is highly possible they are the wrong parts.
I will investigate that. Did they make different length exhaust tips?
Yup, but those were German tips. Who knows what length the one you get now are. I sent you an e-mail on how I do it. If you don't install them to the correct depth your intake manifold pre-heater won't draw, then it'll coke up, and your car will consistently run rich.
@@brianallen9810 the 50-67 tips are 260 mm.... I think, and the 68 and up are 245 mm. And mine measure a little better than 10 inches (260 mm)
German or Chinese....still the same length.
Measure yours....how long are they?
So, if I place my 260 mm tips, in the exhaust 1.8 inches, and you were to place your 245 mm tips about 3.4 inches (per the book)
You would see how mine stick out a little farther than the ones on your 73