Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! I was staring at the EGR and vacuum diagram in my service manual for 2002 Nissan Frontier as you explained. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! The ECM tossed a 0400 code, which is EGR related. I replaced all vac lines in the EGR system, including the input to the solenoid valve which was SPLIT OPEN! The code has NOT returned, but as a software engineer, I wanted to know how this system worked. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! It seems the BPT exhaust input serves like the base of a transistor. Just Wow! Some random (happy) guy in Florida.
Fantastic video! I'm currently in the process of diagnosing my egr system as it has stopped working, and so far I can't figure out what's wrong. So I'll have to test the bpt valve, and check for leaks. I'm kind of expecting to find a hole in the line for exhaust pressure!
Hi. I've got an unmodified 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, 164,000 miles, 3.3L V6, 5 speed automatic transmission. Owned by an elderly couple...treated well. 10w-30 oil/filter is new and full. Same with transmission fluid. When it's first started it knocks or loudly rattles for 3 seconds. Then it stops. Once warm it will only do the startup rattle about 50% of the time. Exact same noise returns from about 1,800 to 3,200 RPM and then stops. Also, the noise quiets and sometimes disappears between 1,800 - 3,200 RPM if I let off of the accelerator and coast. It also will not do it sometimes if I'm going up a steep hill slowly with the RPMs are in that midrange, under the hill's load. The noise increases in speed and loudness with increasing RPMs. It sounds like 1 or maybe 2 cylinders of the 6, to me. The main bearings and rod bearings were changed. Looked good, some rod bearing wear on a couple but not serious. No rod or crank shaft slop was noted before or after replacement. Made no difference in the noise. The crank was NOT sanded/polished. It throws a P1400 code for EGRC Solenoid Valve error. I don't notice any idling or power issues though. It returns within a few minutes after clearing the code. Could this cause a knocking noise at certain times like I have? I've narrowed it down to 5 things based on its part time occurrence: 1. Flex plate? 2. Timing belt tensioner failing (unknown when last changed)? 3. Torque converter? 4. Hydraulic lifters? 5. EGRC Solenoid Valve? I have two short videos I recorded it and can share if you want to hear it. Thanks!
I tried asking this question online forum and all I got was a lecture repeating what's in the fsm. I'll try again and be brief. I have a 97 nissan hardbody. Orig owner, 26 years. All the other cars I've tested egr were not nissan and did not have this valve. When I tested them, I used the engine rpm to verify the valve moved up and down freely. I don't know what they do in calif now but this used to be part of the smog test when I lived there. Couple of years ago I found that the egr didn't seem to be working at all so I replaced it but saved the old part but I don't remember if I retested the new on. Couple of years ago it didn't seem to be working so I tested the egr on and off the car, and the bpt and the egr solenoid and they all seemed to be working ok but altogether the egr valve operates sporadic. Only way I know to describe it. The valve does not move up and down as I would expect. If I take off the bpt valve and connect the vacuum directly to the egr solenoid, it works fine. Either way, it doesn't seem to affect the ecu. No faults and evap and egr monitors complete and 2 years now it's passed smog so I'm confused what the bpt valve is for and if it's necessary. If I remove it, the engine runs fine and as I said, there are no faults. I've been over the fsm and besides showing how to test the parts, there's nothing else related to emissions. And I went back to the old egr part I was going to throw away before but kept and that one passes the bench test too. Again, with or without the bpt, the engine runs fine and it passes the smog where I live now because they don't check actual emissions or manually check the egr.
nevermind. I should delete this so I don't look so foolish but the problem is a leaking bpt valve but it's interesting the way this make the egr look faulty, and that there's no obd fault or affect on the drive monitor. Might not pass smog in calif but here in nevada they don't actually measure emissions so it passes smog fine.
Know if this was bad it could cause a terrible shake when in driver? My xterra has one and it feels like I’m forgetting to push the clutch in. Had codes pop up for a missfire
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
I was staring at the EGR and vacuum diagram in my
service manual for 2002 Nissan Frontier as you explained.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
The ECM tossed a 0400 code, which is EGR related.
I replaced all vac lines in the EGR system, including the
input to the solenoid valve which was SPLIT OPEN!
The code has NOT returned, but as a software engineer,
I wanted to know how this system worked.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
It seems the BPT exhaust input serves like the
base of a transistor. Just Wow!
Some random (happy) guy in Florida.
Mr Brown, glad it helped someone out! That was the goal. Cheers!
Awesome explanation! Thank you so much.
Fantastic video! I'm currently in the process of diagnosing my egr system as it has stopped working, and so far I can't figure out what's wrong. So I'll have to test the bpt valve, and check for leaks. I'm kind of expecting to find a hole in the line for exhaust pressure!
Great explanation thank you!!
Just what I needed. Thank you.
thanks
Explained well
Hi. I've got an unmodified 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, 164,000 miles, 3.3L V6, 5 speed automatic transmission. Owned by an elderly couple...treated well.
10w-30 oil/filter is new and full. Same with transmission fluid.
When it's first started it knocks or loudly rattles for 3 seconds. Then it stops. Once warm it will only do the startup rattle about 50% of the time. Exact same noise returns from about 1,800 to 3,200 RPM and then stops. Also, the noise quiets and sometimes disappears between 1,800 - 3,200 RPM if I let off of the accelerator and coast. It also will not do it sometimes if I'm going up a steep hill slowly with the RPMs are in that midrange, under the hill's load.
The noise increases in speed and loudness with increasing RPMs. It sounds like 1 or maybe 2 cylinders of the 6, to me.
The main bearings and rod bearings were changed. Looked good, some rod bearing wear on a couple but not serious. No rod or crank shaft slop was noted before or after replacement. Made no difference in the noise. The crank was NOT sanded/polished.
It throws a P1400 code for EGRC Solenoid Valve error. I don't notice any idling or power issues though. It returns within a few minutes after clearing the code. Could this cause a knocking noise at certain times like I have?
I've narrowed it down to 5 things based on its part time occurrence:
1. Flex plate?
2. Timing belt tensioner failing (unknown when last changed)?
3. Torque converter?
4. Hydraulic lifters?
5. EGRC Solenoid Valve?
I have two short videos I recorded it and can share if you want to hear it. Thanks!
I tried asking this question online forum and all I got was a lecture repeating what's in the fsm. I'll try again and be brief. I have a 97 nissan hardbody. Orig owner, 26 years. All the other cars I've tested egr were not nissan and did not have this valve. When I tested them, I used the engine rpm to verify the valve moved up and down freely. I don't know what they do in calif now but this used to be part of the smog test when I lived there. Couple of years ago I found that the egr didn't seem to be working at all so I replaced it but saved the old part but I don't remember if I retested the new on. Couple of years ago it didn't seem to be working so I tested the egr on and off the car, and the bpt and the egr solenoid and they all seemed to be working ok but altogether the egr valve operates sporadic. Only way I know to describe it. The valve does not move up and down as I would expect. If I take off the bpt valve and connect the vacuum directly to the egr solenoid, it works fine. Either way, it doesn't seem to affect the ecu. No faults and evap and egr monitors complete and 2 years now it's passed smog so I'm confused what the bpt valve is for and if it's necessary. If I remove it, the engine runs fine and as I said, there are no faults. I've been over the fsm and besides showing how to test the parts, there's nothing else related to emissions. And I went back to the old egr part I was going to throw away before but kept and that one passes the bench test too. Again, with or without the bpt, the engine runs fine and it passes the smog where I live now because they don't check actual emissions or manually check the egr.
nevermind. I should delete this so I don't look so foolish but the problem is a leaking bpt valve but it's interesting the way this make the egr look faulty, and that there's no obd fault or affect on the drive monitor. Might not pass smog in calif but here in nevada they don't actually measure emissions so it passes smog fine.
@@johnsmith-sk1ep they don't measure emissions in nevada? So you have a P0400 code for the egr and still pass?
Know if this was bad it could cause a terrible shake when in driver? My xterra has one and it feels like I’m forgetting to push the clutch in. Had codes pop up for a missfire