I just retired from a shop at a University and much of the equipment we had and still in use I see in your videos. I enjoy seeing you restore and use those old machines, thanks for doing these videos.
Keith, despite sacrificing the floor space. Think keeping both will be a good choice in the long run. Worked at a stamping press manufacturer in a previous life and we had both. DoAll are super handy, but the Marvels are way better at set it and forget it type operations, since the stops free you up to start a cut and be able to do something else while it runs that cut. Both are good machines in their own way.
Always love these Horizontal metal cutting saws. Had not seen one quite like this one before. Just FYI, the official name for that "oil cap", is a Gits Oiler. Manufactured for almost 100 years by the Gits Manufacturing Company in Urbandale Iowa. Keep up the great work.
I see a great deal of safety built into this machine versus a traditional band saw. It keeps the operator's fingers well away from the cutting area. Good Stuff
My heart leaped at the thought of the DoAll being available and then saw your comment on keeping it. I wouldn't get rid of it either. I got a Kalamazoo 13x20 semi automatic saw cheap and it's a beast. Just have to run my rotary converter for three phase to use it.
the drive shaft has a lot of flex. it has a tendency to jump up and reduce the friction drive. Ended up making a "J" type fixture, that when mounted upside down, prevents the thin diameter shaft from jumping up. worked on one of these about 10 - 12 years ago.
Keith, please make a video showing the 'weighing scale' adjustment in use - I guess it somehow measures blade load and slips the worm out of mesh until the load reduces - but the whole power feed has a few interesting features I'd like to see more detail of and how & why they're there and work ! Cheers. PS include travel stops in use too !
Yes please. I had a hard time trying to figure out how that adjustable force mechanism worked. My only guess is the purpose is if there is too much force on the blade, because it can't cut through fast enough, the lead screw will be kicked up and stop feeding the table. In other words it's an adjustable way to protect the saw blade versus the amount of metal it's cutting.
The slip clutch is in the rear, notice the wooden posts that Keith mentions as he assembles the belt drive. They are pressed against the cone by the weight in the front . Slipping the teeth would destroy gears quickly.
@@july8xx The blance weight appears to be able to lift the worm out of mesh with the worm wheel - if so, not a good design. If the balance slided the shaft to alter the force through the clutch, that makes much more sense but I couldn't see how that operated - so asked Keith for a video of it in action + explanation. Is it merely a means of applying a steady force on the clutch or is there some feedback mechanism as there ought to be - measuring the blade drive torque.
@@july8xx Here here! I was thinking about mentioning the same thing when I saw your post. However I still don't get the reason for the counterweight on those gears. I could see it if it were to adjust the pressure on the slip clutch by moving the drive shaft back and forth but it lifts it at the gear end
I was a little confused by it, too. Does the weight push the rod backwards into the clutch, applying pressure to the cork friction discs? And so if the forward pressure into the work is more than what is "dialed in", the clutch slips?
First thing I noticed in the video: a doggie walking around you. Second thing I noticed in the video: a kitty making his bed on a shelf on the back there 😂
This is so awesome! We had 2 of these at our shop. They've been so neglected and have so wanted you to restore them. Thanks so much for making videos like this I really appreciate it 😊
That band saw would be great in your welding/fabricating area. The easier and quicker it is to fab up a jig to hold something the less likley you are to use an unsafe "temporary" setup just to get something done.
FLSmidth is an old Danish mining and cement company that have offices all over the world, I'm a Dane, fun to see the tag on the machine, the Company I work for makes laboratorys, we have just made a laboratory for FLSmidth, enjoy your videos
Of course you keep them both. What you CAN get rid of would be a small horizontal band saw, because this looks like what a horizontal bandsaw does...just better. :)
Hi Keith, When I saw the term 'worm gears' in the title, I was reminded of all my old worm drive saws that need repair/rescue/rehabilitation/restoration.
Always a pleasure watching you repair equipment that I remember as new coming in to our shop back when I was a apprentice back in 60's. FYI completed Tool & Die apprenticeship and Mech Engineering degree, knowing how to process metal helped greatly in design work.
I use a saw just like that at Bath Iron Works in Maine, it is a beast of a machine. I had never paid any attention to how the friction drive works, very cool to see you working on one so I could see how it really works.
We always ran ours with the vice jaws on the same side as the drive, so you didn't have to walk around the saw to engage the feed after clamping the part.
In all seriousness, congratulations! Those marvel saws are amazing! There's no conflict, everyone needs a vertical band saw to do contour work, and everybody needs a workhorse ( typically a harbor freight 6x4) that you can set to work and walk away. The marvel is perfect for that!
With that in mind, maybe you should consider putting the widest blade you can get on the marvel. Best tooth set for ripping, leave the do all with a smaller band for contouring work
Right out of highschool I ran one of those for about a year . Sweet saws good to keep it in service. The one I was running was extremely old probably first generation.
I run a Marvel you got your clamps and backwards that one has to go on the right hand side if you're facing the saw the bevel on the clamps have to be towards the blade that way you can picture blade over to a 45-degree side to side also the back clamps were fixed the front one slid forward
I have a Marvel hacksaw. Manual not powered. I’ve always hated hacksaws now I love them, this one anyway. It always cuts straight, never hangs in the cut and it’s beautiful to look at.
We have a marvel 8-mark-II bandsaw at my work that I help maintain. Those cork inserts are notorious for "glazing" and slipping easily. They might not look like they're in bad shape, but new ones make a considerable difference.
So the sliding weight applies variable pressure to the cork clutch on the back end. And the clutch applies variable torque to the worm gear on the front. And the worm gear applies variable torque to a chain sprocket. And the chain applies variable force on the movable blade. Wow, Rube Goldberg.
Thanks. I figured it was there too allow the operator to adjust how much force the blade would push against the metal stock. But I couldn't figure out how it worked.
Jim Connelley......Well, if you knew the importance of the Marvel band saw in American industry you would be embarrassed by the cheezy cartoon Rube Goldberg reference.
Cork clutches are use where the clutch will get oil on it. The machines I use the main drive uses a 20" clutch plate with 50 corks as the clutch. The bushings in the drive needs oiling everyday so the clutch plate is soaked in oil and it drives without slipping.
I remember using one of those at the experiment station up in Lubbock. Dub and that other OT helped me use it. I remember the head moving, and it was through the 2x4 heavy wall tubing in a jiffy. And you can run two saws at once, especially with the stops, so when you get in prodution ;), you'll be in high cotton. Very good job. Don't change the paint, she looks good in her work clothes. I thought maybe using the new worm and the old gear would be a good enough combo.
I actually work in a machine shop that still has this is operational use I actually ran this saw back in 1979 when I started working helped to do a minor rebuild very interesting this saw used a cork drive system our saw is from 1957
Thanks for sharing this with us. If possible I would like to see you do a blade change. I am having difficulty figuring out how the blade tracks on the wheels. I am used to band saws used for woodworking, where the wheels are perpendicular to those on your saw.
Next shop project: Fabricating worm gears! No question there are specialized cutters, but frankly I have never seen it done. I could see making the worm on the lathe but the larger, driven gear? 2nd question: I wonder if you could order that set of gears (cheaper) out of the Boston Gear catalog? Wouldn't have to be uber-precise, it's just the feed rate.
there is one of theses at my job that is used occasionally i found the entire parts book/ operation manual for it and im waiting for new blade guide rollers neat to see. the other neat thing is the whole head lays over for bevel cuts
G'day Keith, You may wll have picked this up, however I note that the 'hydraulic' hose on the base unit is binding and crimped, looks like there won't be much flow as it site. Another enjowable Video.
Great video Keith. If you get another bent shaft I would really like to see the process you used to straighten it. I have tried on several shafts, not easy.
Keith: as far as whether to keep both band saws or let the Do-All go? Just give it a while and the correct choice will become apparent in time. You'll find you use one saw for everything or that both saws are really needed. Lookin good!
That scale-like mechanism to increase the pressure is an odd unit. I wonder if there was a chart for how to set it for various materials and/or thicknesses.
At first my eye was twitching at the idea of the counterweight being the sole mechanism for "jumping" the worm gear as a clutch. Then the wood-dowel clutch was shown and explained and it made sense to me. I assume that the amount of weight you select is going to be determined by material hardness and blade specification (tooth wear). There is probably a maximum amount of force you would want to keep from exceeding on the blade edge and if you get to the point where the worm gear is "jumping" then that is another indication that the material you are cutting is too hard for the blade or the blade teeth are burnt up. That would of been really nice if they had a variable feed rate (in addition to the force).
Great choice keep both. You know if you sold either one at some point you would regret it. IVE done it and im still kicking my own ass for selling an 8" bullet vise in 1978 , my dad said I would an god he was right.
I just retired from a shop at a University and much of the equipment we had and still in use I see in your videos. I enjoy seeing you restore and use those old machines, thanks for doing these videos.
Thanks brings back lots of memories of using these saws for over 40 years
Keith, despite sacrificing the floor space. Think keeping both will be a good choice in the long run. Worked at a stamping press manufacturer in a previous life and we had both. DoAll are super handy, but the Marvels are way better at set it and forget it type operations, since the stops free you up to start a cut and be able to do something else while it runs that cut. Both are good machines in their own way.
Good choice Keith, “He who has the most tools wins”
Always love these Horizontal metal cutting saws. Had not seen one quite like this one before.
Just FYI, the official name for that "oil cap", is a Gits Oiler.
Manufactured for almost 100 years by the Gits Manufacturing Company in Urbandale Iowa.
Keep up the great work.
That beauty has a HUGE depth of cut. Excellent acquisition. With parts n all, what a steal.
The old allen screws with the smaller heads are a 1936 series. Compared with a newer bigger head, 1960 series. Both can be ordered.
Could also just turn down the heads on a lathe. Unless the hex is so large you can’t turn down enough.
Fascinating that there are those who know details like this! Thanks for the knowledge!
That saw sure looks like its ready for the RUCKER renovation and paint job.
I see a great deal of safety built into this machine versus a traditional band saw. It keeps the operator's fingers well away from the cutting area. Good Stuff
One of my favorite sayings ....... 'slicker than snot on a door knob'.
Well, that bandsaw sure is.
Keep them both :)
I found it interesting while rebuilding my 1967 1020 John Deere tractor the book said JD stopped using lock washers as they found the washers failed.
I just hate using brand new broken steel!
I just re-watched this video and note that you are getting a lot of use from this Marvel metal saw! You repairs were most worthwhile!
I think replacing the parts needing replacing are worth it, its an old machine, and keeping machines like this running is worth the effort
My heart leaped at the thought of the DoAll being available and then saw your comment on keeping it. I wouldn't get rid of it either. I got a Kalamazoo 13x20 semi automatic saw cheap and it's a beast. Just have to run my rotary converter for three phase to use it.
the drive shaft has a lot of flex. it has a tendency to jump up and reduce the friction drive. Ended up making a "J" type fixture, that when mounted upside down, prevents the thin diameter shaft from jumping up. worked on one of these about 10 - 12 years ago.
*- Great Saw. Wonderful find. Happy purchase. Rewarding price. Good on you, Kieth . . . about time!*
I love watching old neglected machines come back to life.. Keep up the great work!
Great saw Keith! Good call keeping both.
I remember seeing a saw like this twice in my life, part one and part two. It's a killer saw! My vote is keep them both.
This is a really interesting addition to your shop.
Bought this exact saw earlier this year. They’re such good saws for the shop. Well done getting yours back together!
Keith, please make a video showing the 'weighing scale' adjustment in use - I guess it somehow measures blade load and slips the worm out of mesh until the load reduces - but the whole power feed has a few interesting features I'd like to see more detail of and how & why they're there and work !
Cheers.
PS include travel stops in use too !
Yes please. I had a hard time trying to figure out how that adjustable force mechanism worked. My only guess is the purpose is if there is too much force on the blade, because it can't cut through fast enough, the lead screw will be kicked up and stop feeding the table. In other words it's an adjustable way to protect the saw blade versus the amount of metal it's cutting.
The slip clutch is in the rear, notice the wooden posts that Keith mentions as he assembles the belt drive. They are pressed against the cone by the weight in the front . Slipping the teeth would destroy gears quickly.
@@july8xx The blance weight appears to be able to lift the worm out of mesh with the worm wheel - if so, not a good design. If the balance slided the shaft to alter the force through the clutch, that makes much more sense but I couldn't see how that operated - so asked Keith for a video of it in action + explanation. Is it merely a means of applying a steady force on the clutch or is there some feedback mechanism as there ought to be - measuring the blade drive torque.
@@july8xx Here here! I was thinking about mentioning the same thing when I saw your post. However I still don't get the reason for the counterweight on those gears. I could see it if it were to adjust the pressure on the slip clutch by moving the drive shaft back and forth but it lifts it at the gear end
I was a little confused by it, too. Does the weight push the rod backwards into the clutch, applying pressure to the cork friction discs? And so if the forward pressure into the work is more than what is "dialed in", the clutch slips?
I'm looking at your subscription numbers! Coming up on *200,000!*
*CONGRATULATIONS!*
First thing I noticed in the video: a doggie walking around you. Second thing I noticed in the video: a kitty making his bed on a shelf on the back there 😂
This is so awesome! We had 2 of these at our shop. They've been so neglected and have so wanted you to restore them. Thanks so much for making videos like this I really appreciate it 😊
I love seeing that people like you bring life back the machines that our forefathers used. Sweet machine 👍👍👍
Way cool. I like the feed clutch arrangement.
I really appreciate the insight into what the parts cost!
Well done Kieth. I enjoyed this video. Thank you for posting your work.
That band saw would be great in your welding/fabricating area. The easier and quicker it is to fab up a jig to hold something the less likley you are to use an unsafe "temporary" setup just to get something done.
Thanks Keith
FLSmidth is an old Danish mining and cement company that have offices all over the world, I'm a Dane, fun to see the tag on the machine, the Company I work for makes laboratorys, we have just made a laboratory for FLSmidth, enjoy your videos
That going to work out great for cutting washers spacers and shims
Of course you keep them both. What you CAN get rid of would be a small horizontal band saw, because this looks like what a horizontal bandsaw does...just better. :)
Hi Keith, When I saw the term 'worm gears' in the title, I was reminded of all my old worm drive saws that need repair/rescue/rehabilitation/restoration.
Always a pleasure watching you repair equipment that I remember as new coming in to our shop back when I was a apprentice back in 60's. FYI completed Tool & Die apprenticeship and Mech Engineering degree, knowing how to process metal helped greatly in design work.
Thank you Ken for sharing...
I use a saw just like that at Bath Iron Works in Maine, it is a beast of a machine. I had never paid any attention to how the friction drive works, very cool to see you working on one so I could see how it really works.
Your abilities to restore/repair machinery knows no limits. I’m impressed. Thanks, Keith
We always ran ours with the vice jaws on the same side as the drive, so you didn't have to walk around the saw to engage the feed after clamping the part.
Congratulations, Keith.
Hello from Finland.Nice job.
Interesting new tool. I am also hoping for a future restoration. Thanks for sharing.
Great addition to the shop.
I remember sawing many pieces of steel. We bought one in 1964. What a work horse Good memories for 84 year old
Very nice saw!
I admire your work you are very good and love what you do god bless you
Nice saw, thanks for another great video Keith.
Good looking saw should serve you well, great video Keith, keep'um coming.
In all seriousness, congratulations! Those marvel saws are amazing! There's no conflict, everyone needs a vertical band saw to do contour work, and everybody needs a workhorse ( typically a harbor freight 6x4) that you can set to work and walk away. The marvel is perfect for that!
$800! That is incredible
With that in mind, maybe you should consider putting the widest blade you can get on the marvel. Best tooth set for ripping, leave the do all with a smaller band for contouring work
Nice saw Keith! 🎚🙏🇲🇾🇲🇾🇲🇾
Thank you for sharing. Nice saw, it seems to cut square.
Right out of highschool I ran one of those for about a year . Sweet saws good to keep it in service. The one I was running was extremely old probably first generation.
I run a Marvel you got your clamps and backwards that one has to go on the right hand side if you're facing the saw the bevel on the clamps have to be towards the blade that way you can picture blade over to a 45-degree side to side also the back clamps were fixed the front one slid forward
Thanks for sharing!
Go big or go home. I love your shop and tools.
I have a Marvel hacksaw. Manual not powered. I’ve always hated hacksaws now I love them, this one anyway. It always cuts straight, never hangs in the cut and it’s beautiful to look at.
Keeping both - a great idea.
Man, that is one super cool saw.
Great work Keith! Lucky you can get decent replacement parts!
Thats a Marvel of a machine, very nice, also thats one heck of a washer :D
Beautiful Saw, Great Job‼️. Vinny 🇺🇸
We have a marvel 8-mark-II bandsaw at my work that I help maintain. Those cork inserts are notorious for "glazing" and slipping easily. They might not look like they're in bad shape, but new ones make a considerable difference.
KEITH, ANOTHER GREAT FIND, GREAT VIDEO, GREAT JOB, PET THE DOGS AND CATS, SEE YOU ALL NEXT TIME...
I hope you have plans to clean it up and repaint it. My OCD would certainly have to make it look near new... Thumbs Up
So the sliding weight applies variable pressure to the cork clutch on the back end. And the clutch applies variable torque to the worm gear on the front. And the worm gear applies variable torque to a chain sprocket. And the chain applies variable force on the movable blade. Wow, Rube Goldberg.
Thanx 4 xplanation.
Thanks. I figured it was there too allow the operator to adjust how much force the blade would push against the metal stock. But I couldn't figure out how it worked.
Jim Connelley......Well, if you knew the importance of the Marvel band saw in American industry you would be embarrassed by the cheezy cartoon Rube Goldberg reference.
@@paulcopeland9035 I love Rube Goldberg systems.
Splendid machine!
Please make more video of this saw, Love it Thanks!
this is a great new toy
I'm rebuilding a 1949 BSA motorcycle, they used cork blocks on their clutch friction plates too.
Cork clutches are use where the clutch will get oil on it. The machines I use the main drive uses a 20" clutch plate with 50 corks as the clutch. The bushings in the drive needs oiling everyday so the clutch plate is soaked in oil and it drives without slipping.
Very cool old saw.
I remember using one of those at the experiment station up in Lubbock. Dub and that other OT helped me use it. I remember the head moving, and it was through the 2x4 heavy wall tubing in a jiffy. And you can run two saws at once, especially with the stops, so when you get in prodution ;), you'll be in high cotton. Very good job. Don't change the paint, she looks good in her work clothes. I thought maybe using the new worm and the old gear would be a good enough combo.
at 1:20 amazing action at the right bottom corner of the picture - an escape artist ;)
we've got one of those. works great
"I have decided to keep them both!" Hahahahah what a surprise Keith. Did you really believe you could have only one metal band saw ;) ?
I own 15 of them
I actually work in a machine shop that still has this is operational use I actually ran this saw back in 1979 when I started working helped to do a minor rebuild very interesting this saw used a cork drive system our saw is from 1957
I just love these machines. An excellent addition to the shop.
Thanks for sharing this with us. If possible I would like to see you do a blade change. I am having difficulty figuring out how the blade tracks on the wheels. I am used to band saws used for woodworking, where the wheels are perpendicular to those on your saw.
Very interesting as usual sir.
Looking forward to getting the horizontal boring mill in operation.
Next shop project: Fabricating worm gears! No question there are specialized cutters, but frankly I have never seen it done. I could see making the worm on the lathe but the larger, driven gear? 2nd question: I wonder if you could order that set of gears (cheaper) out of the Boston Gear catalog? Wouldn't have to be uber-precise, it's just the feed rate.
there is one of theses at my job that is used occasionally i found the entire parts book/ operation manual for it and im waiting for new blade guide rollers neat to see. the other neat thing is the whole head lays over for bevel cuts
Very nice saw and video thanks for sharing. :o)
G'day Keith,
You may wll have picked this up, however I note that the 'hydraulic' hose on the base unit is binding and crimped, looks like there won't be much flow as it site.
Another enjowable Video.
Great video Keith. If you get another bent shaft I would really like to see the process you used to straighten it. I have tried on several shafts, not easy.
i use one daily at work its a nice saw
what a nice saw
You need to keep the DoAll so you can weld together band saw blades! LOL
Cool tool 🖖
And another unwanted orphan finds a new lease on life in "Kieth's Home for Wayward Machinery"..... LOL
Keith: as far as whether to keep both band saws or let the Do-All go? Just give it a while and the correct choice will become apparent in time. You'll find you use one saw for everything or that both saws are really needed. Lookin good!
I enjoyed it, as always.
That scale-like mechanism to increase the pressure is an odd unit. I wonder if there was a chart for how to set it for various materials and/or thicknesses.
It's a no brainer, Keith. The Marvel is a cross-cut saw, the DoAll is a rip. Thanks for the video. Jon
Good deal on the Marvel. Once you have it in the shop for awhile you will wonder how you ever got by without it.
I used a marvel at the manufacturer I work for. It had a badge on it that was from the 'war department' in the early 1940's.
At first my eye was twitching at the idea of the counterweight being the sole mechanism for "jumping" the worm gear as a clutch. Then the wood-dowel clutch was shown and explained and it made sense to me. I assume that the amount of weight you select is going to be determined by material hardness and blade specification (tooth wear). There is probably a maximum amount of force you would want to keep from exceeding on the blade edge and if you get to the point where the worm gear is "jumping" then that is another indication that the material you are cutting is too hard for the blade or the blade teeth are burnt up. That would of been really nice if they had a variable feed rate (in addition to the force).
Great choice keep both. You know if you sold either one at some point you would regret it. IVE done it and im still kicking my own ass for selling an 8" bullet vise in 1978 , my dad said I would an god he was right.
A working marvel roll saw for less than $1000 is a win! 😎