I can’t find that little bracket/arrow to see tdc (1:49). Is that attached to a water pump bolt? And any idea what it’s called in case I need to buy a new one?
Did you check on the bottom side? I remember some older RV's with a 5.0 and 5.8 have the indicator on the bottom of the engine. I'll look into it. It might come on the timing chain cover.
Scotties Hobbies thanks. I just found out the VIN lookup I used lied to me and I actually have a 460 lol. Still having trouble finding my timing indicator online because I’m pretty sure mine isn’t there. I have to time my car to smog it because California.
I tried this but when I reconnect my spout and turn my truck back on to check the timing it set itself back to what it was before, any idea what happened? It is a 93 lightning with a rebuilt engine If that helps, it is set at 24 but sounds and runs fine
Thanks for the good video... and awesome background music! I shazamed the song playing in the background and am now currently exploring a newly found band (Our waking hour!) that rocks and celebrating a successful truck timing with an ice cold ipa! 🍻 Thanks again!!
Thank you. Do you know if there is a difference between the black one and the gray one mine came with a black one but I lost it I put a gray one in there and it just did not run right.
@@MinisterCJ4JC they have resistors in them you might have bought one with the wrong resistance some how. I have thought they would all be the same though. If you are having a hard time getting the timing adjusted, have you checked for slop in the distributor gear? With your cap off try to gently move the rotor side to side. Its common for that gear on the bottom of the dizzy get knife edged and throw timing off.
I’ll definitely check that. I knew they had resistors in them and I know that the gray ignition box in the black ignition box or two different ignition set ups I was wondering if the gray spout connector maybe has a different resistor then the black one.
Mine is a 1 ton 5.8 EFI as well.. What's gonna make this motor constantly backfire when it gets warmed up and or hotter as you go? Because the hotter it gets the worse it gets. And I've replaced just about everything possible. It's go to be simple. It wasn't doing this when I bought it from Illinois and drove it home to Indy. It didn't want to hit overdrive though. Somewhat of fast idle too. I replaced throttle positioning sensor on throttle body, and it's been there ever since. I assume.. It was sitting while I worked on wrecker bed. Started driving it and it backfired bad when on throttle. I need help bad.. I'm losing money daily.
Have you checked to see if the the resistor for the timing advanced is missing? It kind of sounds like your timing is not advancing while you are driving. Also, have you checked compression to ensure you are working with a good motor?
@@farmaholic4587 Na it's coming out of the hole.. I had to fix a head gasket leak,, I put some sealer in it.. And it's caused other problems perhaps,, because it's coming out of that hole leaving a mess all over the place.
I have a 1994 it’s fine wit fuel I changed almost everything in it but it stalls and when I give it gas it’ll fall on its face I haven’t changed the distributor and computers what do you think it’ll be?
I have a 94 F150 with a 351 the issue I'm having is I'm trying to time to distributor because the distributor has jumped to cylinders and I'm trying to find top dead center on cylinder 1 however all of the HVAC lines are blocking off my way looking into cylinder 1 so I'm using Cylinder 6 as a reference point I'm trying to get Cylinder 6 at top dead center and then use that on the distributor 50/50 trial and error do I take off the distributor to get the time and cuz every time I try to spin the crankshaft the distributor spins with it
It is common for the distributor gear to get knife edged on the gear. Have you checked that? When you turn the crank it will turn the dizzy. If you want to move the dizzy you will have to pull the dizzy out of the crank gear.. if this was not previously changed, I would proceed with caution. Make sure you keep a base point established. Mark were you are at right now just incase you need to put it back.
@@ScottiesHobbies it does turn over but it Sparks on exhaust when cylinder 1 is at top dead center it's on cylinder 5 so what it makes me feel like it's sparking on exhaust
@@ScottiesHobbies okay just to let you know give you an update I got it timed it's at proper timing I had to remove the distributor in time it properly with the top dead center it turns over a lot better but it refuses to spark I got spark to the distributor ignition coil and the module to make sure it worked I think it might be the PIP sensor
If this vehicle had a vacuum advance then yes you would need to do that. This one has an electronic advance. At the beginning of the video I disconnect a inline spout connector. That disables the timing advance and puts the computer at vase timing. On older models that are vacuum advanced then you would need to disconnect the vacuum hose to the advance and plug that vacuum line.
You're timing indicator might be seen from the bottom of your vehicle. When you get a chance crawl under your vehicle and look at the harmonic balancer. Your timing indicator might be down there. If it is just connect your time in gun on to the number one cylinder. Pull your little Gray timing connector and check the timing on the bottom side of the engine at the crankshaft harmonic balancer.
@@geoh6974 Man! Sorry I missed this reply. Did you get this fixed? I think that electrical connection you're talking about is Still near that distributer. Have you looked from the bottom side of the engine up to see if it got tucked down somehow? If it is not there I have seen it also located on the inner finger walls near the fire wall under the hood if you did get this fixed can you please let us know where you did located so they could help somebody later? Again, sorry.
Got a 93 f-150 with a 5.8 it starts an won’t stay running it just shakes I’ve tried everything even putting from putting a new map to new fuel injectors today does anyone know what the problem could be I mean before it would run with the old fuel injectors but had a delay in power an shut off every now an then it also has a new distributor an cap and new plug wires
I have a 1992 F250 I'm trying to locate a spout inline connector that you showed on this video I can't find anywhere on the internet to get one anyone couldn't help me out I appreciate it thank you
Thanks for our videos. I have a 351 Windsor 5.8 and it's only running in 4 cylinders. Looking on the distributor top the # 1 no working, 3 yes, 7 no, 2 yes, 6 no, 5 yes, 4 no, 8 yes. I have the correct firing order but I can remove the 4 wire plugs for the 1-7-6-4 and still running good, but when I put it on drive it doesn't has any power the all. Any ideas? thanks.
When you say not working, do you mean those cylinders have no spark? If so, have you checked your ignition coil? Maybe your coil is turning on and off. You could buy a ignition spark tester. It's a little viewing window that you can plug between the coil and the distributor and the spark plugs and distributor. You could visually see if you have a constant spark or a pull spark. Obviously you want to post spark and going to you are cylinders. But you want a constant spark coming out of your coil. Let me know if you have any more questions or if this helps you out. Thanks for watching.
@@ScottiesHobbiesThanks for responding. I have a new timing chain, new plugs and cables, new distributor cup and rotor. I'm getting spark to all the plugs but it looks like is getting there at the wrong time. the engine runs fine with 4 cables disconnected. I have the correct timing for a 351 W 5.8 ( 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8).
Got it. When you installed the new distributor did you make sure the timing marks on the crank were set to TDC? When the crank is at TDC the distributor should be pointing the rotor directly at the number one spark plug under distributor. Did you make sure of that?
@Jim Burnett hello and thanks for the information. The problem was fixed. It was a carburetor it wasn’t supplying gas to the left side of the engine. After a very good cleaning it works fine. Plenty of power now.
I can only find them on ebay reliably now. the dealer is often out or 30 days out. Check them out here: ebay.us/ex8Xn2 Keep us posted on your progress and outcome. Good luck on your DIY projects.
Back when I had my Mustang 5.0. I supercharged it. I remember I kept it around 15 or 16ﾟ. That was my sweet spot of course adjusted it to get my emissions testing
@@ScottiesHobbies Ya they are all a little diff in timing and mine Is the Windsor 302. The base timing was predetermined from the factory due to warranty. That's why 10btc is standard! But as soon as you mod or change anything the timing has to change too!
Interesting. I have a f250 5.8, c6, 4.10 gears, getting 6mpg. I checked my plugs and they look good. Checked timing and it looks about 8 degrees BDC. 'Course my dizzy is gummed up and wouldn't turn so I'll do it some other day. The EGR is gone, now I'm wondering if I need a little more than 10*. But, need to get to 10* first. I've got tons of power but I should be getting around 10mpg.
@@Mattys91gt completely understand. Its winter here too. Way to cold to do anything in sub °58 weather. It gets cold here in California... brrrrrr. Just kidding! Good luck getting a easy winter. Keep us posted on your fix.
@@ScottiesHobbies My label and my chilton book says timing is not adjustable but it gives me the 650 idle rpm (idle set screw/bolt under the accelerator cable cover) and the 10B degrees to check it. My timing has always been on...wonder what will happen if you do turn the distributor if needed? Does the In-line spout connector (when you unplug it) turn off the advance via the EEC system.
Actually I'm in Northern California. But I'm down to help you if you can make it to me. LOL. Why did you think I was in Washington? I've sent a few stickers to some followers out there just wondering if that's how you saw me?
Its even funnier when some one searches for that 🤣 dizzy timing?? You mean finding tdc on #1 cylinder and making sure what pin on the cap the rotor is on... if you need that adjustment, something other than routine maintenance was done or needs to be done.
![351 Windsor - What You Need to Know About the Ford 351w Small Block [5.8 Liter]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qoK_a0NrtpM/mqdefault.jpg)
![351 Windsor – What You Need to Know About the Ford 351w Small Block [5.8 Liter]](/img/tr.png)
I can’t find that little bracket/arrow to see tdc (1:49). Is that attached to a water pump bolt? And any idea what it’s called in case I need to buy a new one?
This is on my 1989 F-250 by the way.
Did you check on the bottom side? I remember some older RV's with a 5.0 and 5.8 have the indicator on the bottom of the engine. I'll look into it. It might come on the timing chain cover.
Scotties Hobbies thanks. I just found out the VIN lookup I used lied to me and I actually have a 460 lol. Still having trouble finding my timing indicator online because I’m pretty sure mine isn’t there. I have to time my car to smog it because California.
What is that little plastic connector for that you dropped on the floor? You can only set the timing with that off?
When you disconnect that, your computer goes into 'base timing' mode. You need to remove that plug to properly check and adjust timing.
@@ScottiesHobbies awesome thanks so much for the info and the video
I tried this but when I reconnect my spout and turn my truck back on to check the timing it set itself back to what it was before, any idea what happened? It is a 93 lightning with a rebuilt engine If that helps, it is set at 24 but sounds and runs fine
Leave it there your good.......
That's the computer adjusted timing I believe. As Chris said, your good.
That is the computer making the adjustment it thinks it needs to run most efficiently. Leave it a lone.
Thanks for the good video... and awesome background music! I shazamed the song playing in the background and am now currently exploring a newly found band (Our waking hour!) that rocks and celebrating a successful truck timing with an ice cold ipa! 🍻 Thanks again!!
RPM has a factor in this or not ? What if IAC or TPS is malfuctioning ?
I didn’t see the link to buy the spout connector.
I'll try to get you one this evening.
Thank you. Do you know if there is a difference between the black one and the gray one mine came with a black one but I lost it I put a gray one in there and it just did not run right.
@@MinisterCJ4JC they have resistors in them you might have bought one with the wrong resistance some how. I have thought they would all be the same though. If you are having a hard time getting the timing adjusted, have you checked for slop in the distributor gear? With your cap off try to gently move the rotor side to side. Its common for that gear on the bottom of the dizzy get knife edged and throw timing off.
I’ll definitely check that. I knew they had resistors in them and I know that the gray ignition box in the black ignition box or two different ignition set ups I was wondering if the gray spout connector maybe has a different resistor then the black one.
Do you set the harmonic balancer to tdc before you put the distributor in ???
Yes make sure your compression stroke is on spark plug one also
Mine is a 1 ton 5.8 EFI as well.. What's gonna make this motor constantly backfire when it gets warmed up and or hotter as you go? Because the hotter it gets the worse it gets. And I've replaced just about everything possible. It's go to be simple. It wasn't doing this when I bought it from Illinois and drove it home to Indy. It didn't want to hit overdrive though. Somewhat of fast idle too. I replaced throttle positioning sensor on throttle body, and it's been there ever since. I assume.. It was sitting while I worked on wrecker bed. Started driving it and it backfired bad when on throttle. I need help bad.. I'm losing money daily.
Have you checked to see if the the resistor for the timing advanced is missing? It kind of sounds like your timing is not advancing while you are driving. Also, have you checked compression to ensure you are working with a good motor?
I wonder if it could be the MAP sensor. I think water can get into them and mess them up. I had one go bad and blew out my muffler from backfire
@@farmaholic4587 Na it's coming out of the hole.. I had to fix a head gasket leak,, I put some sealer in it.. And it's caused other problems perhaps,, because it's coming out of that hole leaving a mess all over the place.
I have a 1994 it’s fine wit fuel I changed almost everything in it but it stalls and when I give it gas it’ll fall on its face I haven’t changed the distributor and computers what do you think it’ll be?
Have you checked fuel pressure yet?
Scotties Hobbies yes changed fuel pump, injectors, regulator, fuel filter as well
I have a 94 F150 with a 351 the issue I'm having is I'm trying to time to distributor because the distributor has jumped to cylinders and I'm trying to find top dead center on cylinder 1 however all of the HVAC lines are blocking off my way looking into cylinder 1 so I'm using Cylinder 6 as a reference point I'm trying to get Cylinder 6 at top dead center and then use that on the distributor 50/50 trial and error do I take off the distributor to get the time and cuz every time I try to spin the crankshaft the distributor spins with it
It is common for the distributor gear to get knife edged on the gear. Have you checked that?
When you turn the crank it will turn the dizzy. If you want to move the dizzy you will have to pull the dizzy out of the crank gear.. if this was not previously changed, I would proceed with caution. Make sure you keep a base point established. Mark were you are at right now just incase you need to put it back.
@@ScottiesHobbies so I should Mark it there like gears in a transmission there are married set like the old road Masters
@@ScottiesHobbies it does turn over but it Sparks on exhaust when cylinder 1 is at top dead center it's on cylinder 5 so what it makes me feel like it's sparking on exhaust
@@ScottiesHobbies okay just to let you know give you an update I got it timed it's at proper timing I had to remove the distributor in time it properly with the top dead center it turns over a lot better but it refuses to spark I got spark to the distributor ignition coil and the module to make sure it worked I think it might be the PIP sensor
Don't you need to disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line before timing?
If this vehicle had a vacuum advance then yes you would need to do that. This one has an electronic advance. At the beginning of the video I disconnect a inline spout connector. That disables the timing advance and puts the computer at vase timing. On older models that are vacuum advanced then you would need to disconnect the vacuum hose to the advance and plug that vacuum line.
@@ScottiesHobbies oh ok thanks for the info, now that I think about it I have never timed anything without vacuum advance.
I wish I could say the same. Lol. Some timing connectors are a pain in the but to find.
I couldn't find it on a 91 e150 van with a 5.8 any help ?
You're timing indicator might be seen from the bottom of your vehicle. When you get a chance crawl under your vehicle and look at the harmonic balancer. Your timing indicator might be down there. If it is just connect your time in gun on to the number one cylinder. Pull your little Gray timing connector and check the timing on the bottom side of the engine at the crankshaft harmonic balancer.
@@ScottiesHobbies my bad didn't specify I couldn't find the timing connector ,didn't see it from where you disconnected it or from the sidewalls
@@geoh6974 Man! Sorry I missed this reply. Did you get this fixed? I think that electrical connection you're talking about is Still near that distributer. Have you looked from the bottom side of the engine up to see if it got tucked down somehow? If it is not there I have seen it also located on the inner finger walls near the fire wall under the hood if you did get this fixed can you please let us know where you did located so they could help somebody later? Again, sorry.
Got a 93 f-150 with a 5.8 it starts an won’t stay running it just shakes I’ve tried everything even putting from putting a new map to new fuel injectors today does anyone know what the problem could be I mean before it would run with the old fuel injectors but had a delay in power an shut off every now an then it also has a new distributor an cap and new plug wires
Have you checked fuel pressure?
how do u measure 10 off tdc
02:23
I have a 1992 F250 I'm trying to locate a spout inline connector that you showed on this video I can't find anywhere on the internet to get one anyone couldn't help me out I appreciate it thank you
this one should do you good: ebay.to/2GxYl0V
Thankyou!
Glad to help.
Thanks for our videos. I have a 351 Windsor 5.8 and it's only running in 4 cylinders. Looking on the distributor top the # 1 no working, 3 yes, 7 no, 2 yes, 6 no, 5 yes, 4 no, 8 yes. I have the correct firing order but I can remove the 4 wire plugs for the 1-7-6-4 and still running good, but when I put it on drive it doesn't has any power the all. Any ideas? thanks.
When you say not working, do you mean those cylinders have no spark? If so, have you checked your ignition coil? Maybe your coil is turning on and off. You could buy a ignition spark tester. It's a little viewing window that you can plug between the coil and the distributor and the spark plugs and distributor. You could visually see if you have a constant spark or a pull spark. Obviously you want to post spark and going to you are cylinders. But you want a constant spark coming out of your coil. Let me know if you have any more questions or if this helps you out. Thanks for watching.
@@ScottiesHobbiesThanks for responding. I have a new timing chain, new plugs and cables, new distributor cup and rotor. I'm getting spark to all the plugs but it looks like is getting there at the wrong time. the engine runs fine with 4 cables disconnected. I have the correct timing for a 351 W 5.8 ( 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8).
Got it. When you installed the new distributor did you make sure the timing marks on the crank were set to TDC? When the crank is at TDC the distributor should be pointing the rotor directly at the number one spark plug under distributor. Did you make sure of that?
@@ScottiesHobbies Yes, it's done correctly and the fire order it's correct for the 351 W 5.8 Do you think this has any thing to do with the valves?
@Jim Burnett hello and thanks for the information. The problem was fixed. It was a carburetor it wasn’t supplying gas to the left side of the engine. After a very good cleaning it works fine. Plenty of power now.
Thanks
Thank you sir.
I can’t find anywhere that sells the spout plug.
I can only find them on ebay reliably now. the dealer is often out or 30 days out. Check them out here: ebay.us/ex8Xn2
Keep us posted on your progress and outcome. Good luck on your DIY projects.
Salvage yard
I was able to find one on a mustang website.
Ok.. My husband and I have a F-150 1995 351 engine it'll start once you put it in go there is absolutely no power.. What would cause this?
So many things can cause your issue. It seems like you're on the right track though. Have you checked fuel pressure by any chance?
I forgot!!! Have you checked the gear at the bottom of the distributor? If it has a knife edge the timing can be constantly off.
Mine pings like hell@ 10 btc! But I stripped all emissions off! So I advance to 20 btc it's way better and more power!
Back when I had my Mustang 5.0. I supercharged it. I remember I kept it around 15 or 16ﾟ. That was my sweet spot of course adjusted it to get my emissions testing
@@ScottiesHobbies Ya they are all a little diff in timing and mine Is the Windsor 302. The base timing was predetermined from the factory due to warranty. That's why 10btc is standard! But as soon as you mod or change anything the timing has to change too!
Interesting. I have a f250 5.8, c6, 4.10 gears, getting 6mpg. I checked my plugs and they look good. Checked timing and it looks about 8 degrees BDC. 'Course my dizzy is gummed up and wouldn't turn so I'll do it some other day. The EGR is gone, now I'm wondering if I need a little more than 10*. But, need to get to 10* first. I've got tons of power but I should be getting around 10mpg.
Is clock wise advancing timing? Thanks.
Yes
is there any way to set timing with no gun
Using a vacuum gauge, turn the dizzy til you reach max vacuum. That should get you pretty close. Not recommend tho.
@@ScottiesHobbies I'll wait till the spring it's winter here
@@Mattys91gt completely understand. Its winter here too. Way to cold to do anything in sub °58 weather. It gets cold here in California... brrrrrr. Just kidding!
Good luck getting a easy winter. Keep us posted on your fix.
I did not see you set the idle (ie for a 93 f150 5.8 its 10 degrees BTDC at 650 rpm...
What I find even more amazing is on your under hood label it says that your Ignition timing and idle is not adjustable. Isn't that crazy?
@@ScottiesHobbies My label and my chilton book says timing is not adjustable but it gives me the 650 idle rpm (idle set screw/bolt under the accelerator cable cover) and the 10B degrees to check it. My timing has always been on...wonder what will happen if you do turn the distributor if needed? Does the In-line spout connector (when you unplug it) turn off the advance via the EEC system.
I have that same engine
Nice! These engines are pretty strong.
@@ScottiesHobbies yes they are my distributor went out recently put a new one in and all that's left is fixing the timing hopefully
I see your in WA as well, come help me with mine haha
Actually I'm in Northern California. But I'm down to help you if you can make it to me. LOL. Why did you think I was in Washington? I've sent a few stickers to some followers out there just wondering if that's how you saw me?
Week late but, maybe it's your Washington licence plates that make him think that
@@randallsf8276 lol. Damn. I don't even pay attention to plates any more. This one came in for a emissions inspection.
It’s funny how no one shows you the dizzy timing marks ahahahha what a JOKE!!!!
😅🤣😂😅🤣😂
Its even funnier when some one searches for that 🤣 dizzy timing?? You mean finding tdc on #1 cylinder and making sure what pin on the cap the rotor is on... if you need that adjustment, something other than routine maintenance was done or needs to be done.