Setting the timing in a 93 F150 5.8L 351W
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Setting the timing and a 351 Windsor with EEC IV computer.
I’ll show you how to set the timing on the 1993 F150 XLT 351 Windsor, there’s a certain part you have to unplug in order to do that and use a test light with that unplugged.
If you leave it plugged in, the computer is going to try to compensate and you’re going to be chasing timing all over the place and never get it right. Pay attention to the video.
Thanks for watching
![351 Windsor - What You Need to Know About the Ford 351w Small Block [5.8 Liter]](/img/1.gif)
I installed a iridium spark plugs and gapped them to .044. The truck seems to run better now. Before I started working on it I had the timing set but since I moved the distributor during repairs. I went ahead and checked it again. Also when I put the distributor back in I didn’t get the shaft on the right tooth so my timing was off several degrees so I had to adjust it anyway.
Nice job getting that MSD cap coil wire clip to install with those 9MM wires. I gave up after 15 mins of trying.
Thanks to take sharing time.
Would doing that on my 89 E250 . Complete tune up with iridium spark plugs too. See you use an MSD distributor. You would use an ignition MSD box too ? I’m going to doing that on my Van in the next weeks, MSD ignition box purchased. I don’t change the original Ford distributor.
Thanks again for sharing your job. It’s a great help.
I did not use an MSD ignition box I think I just got an aftermarket ignition that was cheaper than Ford but supposed to be a little bit better (for some reason my whole ignition system would die if the motor got misted with water). And I only used an MSD cap just to mess with a friend of mine, they’re about three times the price of a normal cap and I think a normal cap will do just fine, I would not buy an MSD cap because it was a pain to use it and also those Ford racing plug wires were too big around and they were too short to use the plug wire holder brackets without drilling out the holes and cutting the brackets up. If I had it to do all over again I would just go back with a nice set of standard diameter plug wires, off-the-shelf plug wire holders/separators, (still use the iridium plugs and gap them properly and be careful not to touch the electrodes when doing so)and save some money. By the way depending in your ignition, plug wires, vehicle usage, and fuel octane I guess people who race will use different temperature plugs but I didn’t need to do that. The plugs came with a smaller gap that the factory recommended. I contacted Pete at Peets garage on RUclips and he told me to gap them like the manufacturer said. Theres tons of info out there to learn and I am not expert.
@@geterdone
Thanks for your return and long explanation.
Don’t know if you know this website : Ford trucks enthusiasts. They’ve many forums and many threads where I’ve find helps . Hope this can help U2
Fine job man
So I have a 351 Windsor 5.8 Cobra EFI. It's in a boat. Will it work the same way that you did it? And where should the rotor be pointing at?
You’ll need to consult the manufacturers instructions for your given application. I just remember setting it one time and never having to touch it again as far as adjustment I didn’t have it long enough to need to replace the rotor.
I have a 93 94 351 fuel injection Windsor in my boat. It's a 215 sundowner. Are they the same markings as you did? Yours?
I don’t know, sorry.
This is an older thread but I'll try my luck anyway. I have a 90 bronco 5.8 with a new motor and has a little over 1K on it. Throttle body, IACV , TPS and ALL sensors are new. Only thing not new is the ECM. Issue I'm having is that after I set base timing to 10 degrees and reconnect the spout connector, it causes the engine to stutter at certain rpm's. It stops when I remove the spout. The truck runs perfect at all speeds and rpm's WITHOUT the spout connected and running on base timing. Any ideas why this would be. Tried another spout connector with the same results. I'm leaning toward the ECM. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks !!
Sorry for the late reply, that is interesting. The only thing I can say is maybe pull your computer out and take it apart and look at the circuit board and see if there’s some corrosion somewhere. I’m on my third computer for this stupid truck and generally the heat sinks will go bad, and or electrolytic capacitors. If your gas mileage is doing good, and the truck is running fine, you might take it somewhere they do emissions testing and if it’s not running too rich or too lean, maybe just leave it as is but I know if you run something too lean you can burn the motor. And of course if it’s too rich, then you’ll be wasting a lot of gas and fowling the spark plugs not to mention the loss of power by either of those conditions.
Should have pumped it up to 14 !
Does this also work in a 1989 f250 with the 351 w?
I haven’t worked on one but it has the same type of ignition system then the procedure would be the same. This is electronically controlled advance with no vacuum hose to the distributor watch the video to the end if in doubt.
I removed my distributer and and my paint marks got washed off accidentally. when i reinstall does the gear tooth have to be in the exact proper slot? or can it be to or fro a slot and still be ok?
I assume you are talking about the gear that drives your rotor? If you have it off a little you’ll have to turn your distributor to line it up to get proper timing. I had to do the same thing because whoever worked on it before me had reinstalled it in the wrong place and marked it and when I put it back together (in the right spot) it was so far off the truck wouldn’t start.
@@geterdone yeah. i mean the gear teeth that drive the distrubutor. If the tooth is over a tooth verses where it was when you took it out does that matter? of can you just turn the distributor to make up for it? I have no way of knowing exactly what tooth was oriented where because i forgot to mark the position of the top of the rotor before i removed it.
im Dizzy as Hell
So i guess i set that line to 30btc ?
Thats where mine starts compression. I gueess the circle is the real timing .
Check out the whole video. Around 9:00 Im discussing what to unplug I think. As I recall I set it at 10 degrees with the advance unplugged. After setting the timing you plug it in and the computer does the rest. If you don’t do it like I’m talking about then the computer will be chasing the timing all over the place trying to compensate for whatever you’re doing.
@@geterdone initial timing is going to be set at 0 you pull the battery then plug it back start the truck without spout you verify 10* cut the vehicle off plug spout back up good to go.
@@geterdone truck also has to be at operating temperature that’s a really big one. 180+ temp. a lot of people disregard that
So you need the chip in order to set timing ,
I would, also unplug the spout connector. (3:26). As I understand it those “power chips“ just modify your throttle settings so I’ve left mine out I’m not ever buying another one. Once you set the timing then put the spout connector back in.
This was super helpfull 🫡 I didn’t understand anything how to set the timing