I had an issue where my 15 Prius had an excessive engine rattle. Usually when you have a blown head gasket your engine will rattle for a few seconds and then it goes away. My problem was the knock off Toyota ignition coils I bought on eBay. They were good for a couple of years and went bad on me. Had the ignition coils replaced with dealership purchased coils & problem solved. I checked my car for common blown head gasket symptoms and it didn't have any so after further research and help from my hybrid specialist mechanic it was determined that the ignition coils were the problem. He saved me lots of $$$. Hard to find an honest mechanic nowadays.
I had the same issue. Mine's a 2010 Prius with 258K miles. I cleaned intake maifold since it was filled with dirty oil inside each ports, replaced EGR valve, cleaned throttle body and replaced PCV valve. The rough idle gone. Not sure which or all solved the issue but since I was doing this and had to take out a lot parts, might as well clean and replace.
Thanks so much for sharing this! Just experienced my first rough idle in subzero temperatures two days ago and I’ve been sleepless worrying about a head gasket. Will go through the steps and pray that my problem was the same as yours. Thanks again.
I have a 2012 Prius V2 that I purchased brand new with 6-9 miles on it (I put on during test drive). I purchased in the fall, and Mine did it with less than 1000 miles on it. My dad is a (now retired) ase certified mechanic for 45+ years. Here's my take on it. It's always a cold start condition. And, It's usually always cooler outside air temp - with or sometime without high humidity. first start of the car for the day - when certain conditions (temp humidity) were just right, mine would do this. (brand new car). let it rattle for a few seconds - key off. wait about 10-30 seconds, hit button again - startup was normal. My theory - is this. The prius is an atkinson cycle engine - so it has a bit of blow back into the intake during compression stroke. that means there is residual fuel vapor, etc. in the intake which may or may not be a contributor. but - run the engine the day before - shut down - it sets overnight - any of that unburned vapor condenses in the intake. then -I think toyota tends to be a little on the generous side on fuel delivery at cold start - i.e. if it were a carburetor, it would be a little heavy on the choke and therefore have a pretty rich air fuel ratio on cold start. This, in the right conditions would fowl a spark plug and you have the dreaded misfire death rattle. giving it a few seconds - shutting it down, waiting and then restarting - allows some of that initial firing heat, to warm the cylinder, and intake air, etc. so that on second fire - it usually starts normal. That's my theory anyway. I've also noticed on very very cold days and high humidity - talking single digit temps (F) and 30% humidity or so in the winter - driving thru town at very light throttle speeds 35-45 it would also tend to develop a surging rpm. I'm thinking the computer was fighting the algorithm to go into EV mode- when the heat demand was there wanting the engine to run. not sure on that one. could be dirty throttle body at that point. cheap ethanol fuel - who knows. but that's my take on the startup rattle. The first 10 years I had the car I drove an hour commute each day to and from work - avg. 36000 miles per year. now today I drive about 7 miles to work, have 228000 miles on the car, original battery pack, and believe it or not - original factory brake pads. i'm impressed. great car for what is does. My mileage has slipped over the years - from an avg. of 47 mpg on the high side to a little over 39 now. I attribute that to battery pack fatigue. and I drive a lot more short trips - rather than setting cruise at 60 on state highway. I did run into oil burn at 150k - -but have since reduced that. I assume and found that when I took my car to the dealer for oil changes - I think they put conventional in it from their bulk tank - when I started doing my own oil changes again after that - I now only burn oil with extended interstate use at higher rpm and speeds. about a quart in 5000 miles -- as opposed to 3 in 5000 miles initially...when it started. I can't complain. not sure what my next vehicle will be as I had wanted to go back to a small pickup like the s-10 or today's colorado or something - but I like the looks of the new prius - so who knows. will see. cheers!
I should also state - I've never changed spark plugs (they are iridium and practically last forever). I have only changed oil with full 0w-20 mobile 1 synthetic, initially every 10k miles - now over 200k I do it at 5000 miles interval. I have only put an air filter on the car, and on my 4th set of tires over the years - having got 60-90k miles on each set. everything else on the car is original - and no check engine lights - been very fortunate.
1.You need to clean out you EGR and EGR cooler 2. You need to move your PVC at a higher position and install a oil catch can.. personal experience that's what I did no more problems
March 2020 purchased 2012 Prius V with 146K miles on it. Ran great for 6 Mos then my first of many episodes of the dreaded "Death Rattle" at start up. RUclips University here I come. 1st recommendation change the spark plugs and coil packs. 60K miles later the killer rattle is back. This time consistently losing coolant. Possibly blown head gask. Used the recommended K-12 sealant even though there is no signs of cross contaminating in the oil or coolant and no white smoke from tail pipe. This worked for about 7K miles. 220K miles at the point so just clean the MAF sensor. Death Rattle stops for about two weeks then starts again. Purchased and installed brand new Denso MAF sensor but that didn't resolve the problem. Back to RUclips U. this time a suggestion to remove the O-ring from the engine coolant overflow cap to relieve the pressure from the system. That working for now. Put the O-ring back on to have the coolant changed yesterday. She's at 240K miles, not getting any error codes using the FIXED OBE sensor I keep plugged in. We'll see what happens next. Cheers!
I bought a used Gen 3 which had a very rough idle at startup that soon stopped. 60+ years ago, I worked pumped gas at a GMC truck repair shop that was owned by two WW2 truck mechanics for the Red Ball express -- vital to keep the front line supplied. That's where I learned about products like Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil that kept those truck moving. Both still sell well 80 years later. I tried the Rislone first and drove it about 100 miles. That ended the rough idle. My mileage went up. That stuff is unbelievbly slippery. Techtron is similar and highly regarded. In a previous Prius with 240,000 miles, I stuck with major brands like Sunoco which seems to have kept everything clean. All gasoline comes to New England where it gets pumped into immense tanks that have addatives that "Crap gas" doesn't. That has been my experience.
Thanks for posting this video! It was really well done, and it's always good when we Prius owners can help each other out. Don't be too quick to dismiss a dirty throttle body and throttle plate as a source of rough or noisy idle. Too much "deposit", or build-up, particularly where the outer edge of the throttle plate meets the wall of the throttle body, can cause the throttle plate to "stick" and make it difficult for the ECU to control the engine's idle speed, especially when the engine is cold. Another way to test for a faulty head gasket is to pull all four spark plugs and use an endoscope to examine the inside of the cylinders. An unusually clean and shiny cylinder is a common symptom of coolant leaking into a cylinder. Again, thanks for taking the time and making the effort to help your fellow Prius owners!
Great question. I always suspected my pressure tester had a tiny air leak. The oil analysis done by Blackstone shows no coolant in the oil and no coolant loss.
The head gasket problem is real I forget the exact years mine was a 2010, It has a knocking sound and goes away pretty quick, you start off loosing very little coolant, your check engine light will come on, the malfunction code you will get is for a Cylinder misfiring or issue. Driving though there was no issues with power or anything else it drove like normal. I tried replacing the coils and the check engine light turned off for a few days then came back and I was still loosing very little coolant. I eventually took it to a shop and I ended up going to like 3 of them all saying it's a very common problem the head gasket is leaking coolant into the engine the Cylinders. The last shop which was pretty far from I lived specialized in this though, that was all they did every day all day. They told me basically the adhesive Toyota used slowly deteriated over time on the head gasket, the head gasket itself is not expensive it's the cost to replace it. The extra problems you will deal with if you don't get it fixed in a decent amount of time are the water pump and doing damage to the actual cylinders.
Having the same issue. I cleaned the MAF sensor, tested the head gasket, replaced EGR, cleaned throttle body and intake manifold, replaced plugs, coils, and injectors…I still have a rattle on start that smooths out once RPMs increase. I’m going to pull off the cam cover and test the tensioner next. If you have any more suggestions, please let me know!
Wow! I am impressed at how thorough you are investigating the problem . Quick question. How many miles? Does the rattle occur with every startup? Hot and cold engine? How long has this been going on? Finally, any codes with OBD2 reader?
I have 190,000 miles. The rattle caused a misfire code on cylinders 1 and 3, but I had the codes cleared, and they have not duplicated since. The rattle only happens at start up for a few seconds, and it happens very intermittently. It does not deviate based on ambient temperature or engine temperature. The problem seems to be getting worse though. Now the car is puttering slightly at idle or low RPMs with regularity. Fixing the car is a labor of love. My Prius and I have been through so much together, and I think she has a lot of miles left in her if I can address this issue.
Had my Gen 2 Prius shaking really hard at startup. No issues with sparkplugs or headgasket. I cleaned the throttle body with some carb cleaner, a toothbrush, and a rag. Issue was solved with 15 minutes of work.
Install a catch can, that’s it. Obviously clean everything before doing the install. ChNge the pcv. Cold weather is a contributing factor definitely. I notice my catch can filling up more often in the winter than the summer. There is a correlation between colder temps and condensation of oil/gas/water vapors
You are correct. I bought it used when no one wanted them. 7 years old now. 90k miles. A neighbor teases me when I drive it instead of my 2017 Audi A8L (purchased used of course). Awesome around town car.
Great video. My 2010 Prius with about 217,000 mile kept losing coolant but doesn’t know where it’s going. It doesn’t seem like it’s mixing with the oil and I believe I have gasket blown up. I tried to bars leak which stopped the rattle. And lately it started to rattle For at least a few minutes before it stopped then my engine light comes on with a code cylinder number two and four are misfiring. Don’t know too much about mechanics. Any suggestion will help. Thank you.
It will come back, you need to clean the intake manifold as well, it is the intake manifold that have too much oil accumulate that cause the issue, I have the same issue too. Clean the intake manifold and replace the PCV value (under the intake manifold). Then install a oil catcher and you can completely avoid this problem in maybe in the next 150K miles. The car is really well made with small number of defective designs due to compliance to US population regulation.
Thank you for your comments. I know Nutznbolts installed a oil catch can too. I am impressed that so far my Gen 3 Prius uses no oil every oil change with 5000 mile interval. I will put a catch can in and monitor it
I had it, got cyl 1 misfire code. Then progressed with cyl 3 too. Confirmed head gasket leak and replaced head gasket along with intake manifold (old one was ultra nasty) replaced most EGR components but thoroughly cleaned EGR cooler. Also replaced spark plugs. This was at 189k miles. At 205k I have cyl 4 misfiring. Same rough starting symptoms but it also runs rough while driving except it’s smooth at full throttle. Probably injector. Going to swap coils to rule it out quickly. Then looking at replacement of the original injectors.
I got a 2015 Prius and I'm thankful it's running great. 130k miles and no issues. I've maintained the shit out of it and that's probably why it's going strong still.
@@nevadarobert7908 I know for a fact because I have friends that work for the dealership that the Pistons and Rings for the 2015 are different from the other gen 3 models. Different part number and everything. By the way, I changed my thermostat & water pump at 90k miles, when should I do it again? Not too sure on how long the water pumps last on these cars.
@@joeshmoe8952 I don’t have an answer on water pump replacement. I change my coolant every 3 years hoping it preserves my pump. My car is at 85 k miles. I assume a OBD2 code will appear.
Update. As soon as I got home. I clean the mass air sensor. Waited about 15 minutes. Put it back in the car. Went for a drive. Car running a lot better. This morning was like 54 degrees at 6 am. Car started smooth. Ones again thank you so much. Best of luck to you 👍
I had the same issues. Eventually it got worse and head gasket replacement fixed it. It’s actually not that hard to replace a head gasket on these Prius. These is a step by step video on RUclips on how to do it.
I think the cold start issue might also be related to the EGR not functioning properly. There was a TSB on this very issue that was causing a cold start problem in the 3rd gen. Prius. A faulty EGR can also cause a head gasket issue. It might be a good idea to keep your eye on it. It's a 200 dollar part but it's possible they worked out the issue with the design flaw of the original.
Great comment. I will ask the parts department if the EGR has been updated since my Prius was built. Do you have a number for the TSB? I would love to look it up.
@@nevadarobert7908 I do not have the TSB, As a prius owner you should of been sent the notice in the mail. We received ours and they were offering either a software update or the replacement of the EGR. In our case they only did the software update but the problem still remains occasionally. They were only offering the EGR replacement to Prius owners that were receiving a code. In our case no code but problem is still there. I currently have an appointment with the dealer so they can check the EGR. My main concern is that a faulty EGR can contribute to a head gasket failure and as you know that would be an expensive fix.
@@nevadarobert7908 You probably found the number a long time ago, but there are two TSBs related to the issue. One deals with rough running at cold start(EGR valve has become non functional due to clogging) and the other deals with a misfiring engine while driving(EGR ports in the intake manifold are clogged). T-SB-0116-15 - Misfire While Driving With EGR Active(P030#) - This involves replacing the intake manifold. The EGR ports in the plastic manifold are just too small and curved to get them completely clean. A DIY mechanic might be able to open the ports back up with a spray cleaner that doesn't attack plastics, and/or use a long, thin, pipe cleaning brush with softer bristles to try and get the carbon build up out, but you may or may not be successful, and the problem may or may not come back over time. T-SB-0027-16 - Rattle After Cold Start(P0401) - This involves replacing the EGR valve and gaskets, some sort of minor wiring modification, as well as an ECU update to prevent the problem from recurring. Just like the manifold, you may or may not be able to clean the EGR valve enough to get it functional again. You could spend hours or days taking it all apart, making a mess while cleaning the caked carbon out, putting it all back together, only to find you didn't fix the problem or the problem recurs weeks or months down the road. At the very least, the problem will definitely recur at some point without the ECU update. Regarding head gasket issues, there's also a separate problem with piston rings getting gunked up and causing excess friction and overheating of the head leading to warping and a blown head gasket, but that only applied to the 2010 Prius and maybe some early 2011s. Only way to fix that one permanently is an engine rebuild or replacement since it's poor metallurgy in the rings that is the root cause of that problem. If you own one of the affected engines and missed the window to get your engine rebuilt under warranty, all you can do is cross your fingers and hope the problem never develops for you. Keeping the EGR system clean can help keep the head temperature within normal limits and maybe delay or prevent the head from warping. Final note: the EGR problem is made much worse by overfilling your engine oil. NEVER fill your oil to the top line when the engine is cold. You never want the oil level to exceed the top line after the engine gets hot. Because the starter is powered by the main hybrid battery, it spins the engine almost instantly to idle speeds(1000+ RPM). That has a tendency to slosh the engine oil around violently. If the oil level is too high, that's even more oil to splash, and more of it gets into the EGR intake port. Toyota solved the problem in the gen4 Prius engine by moving the EGR intake port in the block/head to a location that's less susceptible to the problem, but overfilling the oil can even negate that fix. I'm not any form of mechanic, but I own a 2010 Prius that's about to hit 80k and I'm about to have the two TSBs done to future-proof my vehicle(I think it's just starting to run rough on a cold start). Since it's over 12 years old, I'm having them do the 120k/144 month service plus some extra stuff like these TSBs and ATF and brake fluid swaps. I did a bunch of this research to prep for the service.
I have a 2010 Prius that just turned 180,000 miles. Changed oil every 10,000 miles. Hopefully we can get another year out of it. The spark plugs were just changed, the throttle body was cleaned and are getting 50 miles per gallon of gas.
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Some parts you must get from dealers like atf-ws. The oil filter not so. Currently I use kn7021 In the past I used stp from autozone. Toyota buys and uses stp all the time. Toyota buys stp offer 2.50 Autozo e sells them 7.99 Then Toyota sells these stp for 15.99 You pay hiv bg er price for the same thing and you feel good. If you have to change headmaster DoNot put toyota gasket some of these lots were bad and this is why so many blown gaskets.
Mass air flow sensor is the likely cause of this. One thing to note when I was driving my Prius C and if it was really raining out and I'm behind semis and they're stirring up a lot of moisture the mass airflow sensor would get wet and unable to monitor the airflow. My car would shut down. I would have to take out the air filter Wipe Out the inside of the air filter compartment and of course reach around the corner and wipe off the mass airflow sensor. I would then use my OBD2 reader which is Bluetooth + reset the code. I was then able to operate my vehicle but that's like moisture overtime can also oxidize the sensor. Living in the Northeast during the winter there is a lot of salt and moisture that comes into the air intake. This would also put a lot of wear onto the mass air flow sensor so after a while you'll need to clean it or replace it I find that most of these rough idle situations are because of the mass airflow sensor. I've replaced mine twice. My 2015 Prius C has over 300,000 miles now.
Cold startup "shudder" may occur secondary to condensation in intake manifold, bad gas, fuel injector problems among a host of other incidentals. Recently (150000 miles) I cleaned the intake manifold and egr apparatus with a resultant quick shudder on starting. No codes present. Coils, plugs, pcv, and thermostat all "toyota new". Catch can has few cc of oil/water "chocolate milk" without any evidence of my 2013 Prius V burning any oil. Will keep looking.
Bummer. My shudder would last 4-5 seconds. Was truly violent. If I immediately shut off the motor the microsecond it happened and then immediately restated it with no shudder. Mine is a 2015 with 80K . I really like my Prius. I wish you the best of luck. My car has never had a CEL. I never checked with my scanner. The Prius V is a nice car.
I'm from the Netherlands and in Europe we have the Prius, but also the Auris (which in America is still called Corolla), with the same engine and drivetrain as the Prius, the 1.8 hybrid. Mine is from 2013, has 195000 km (120k miles) and doesn't burn oil. I change the oil every 10.000 kilometers myself. I believe in preventing problems instead of solving them. So I change the oil every 10k km's and are going to install an OCC. That keeps the engine and the EGR-system clean, so hopefully no headgasket problems Overall I'm very happy with the car.
My 2015 Gen 3 Prius is a super reliable car. Like you I service it regularly. Prevention is so much easier than repair. And cheaper. I only have 75k miles on mine (120 km). I just replaced a 6x9 passenger door speaker. Enjoy
Experienced this on a 2014 Lexus CT200H at 3 years old and around 30k miles. I turned off the ignition after a few seconds as there was also a strong smell of unburnt gas. Car was under warranty with Lexus and so we had it towed to them for inspection. They couldn’t replicate the issue but said they changed the EGR as a precaution. Car was fine afterwards but I was concerned over the issue returning and requiring expensive work and so we traded it. There are some posts that also claim over filling the oil level can cause this too, and that a start up misfire in an Atkinson cycle motor is more severe and damaging. My advice would be to switch off immediately and wait a few minutes before restarting.
You bet. I can’t recall the guys name but he works on Toyota hybrids. He laid out the sequence of events that lead to head gasket failure. Excess oil gets into the throttle body, which then gets coated onto the plugs. At cold start any moisture in the cylinders with the oil can cause the start up misfire. The Atkinson cycle takes longer to clear a misfire than a conventional gas engine and is more severe. As some cylinders are actually firing normally during the misfire period there is unequal thermal load / warm up on the head and block which over time will result in head gasket failure. Seems to effect cylinder #1 the most. Safe driving bro.
my wife has a 2012 CT200h in Australia so no cold weather issues lo, its done about 160k it started this common rattling like mad at startup and idle and would go away and return at idle. I retired from being a mechanic years ago so have no experience with this hybrid or Lexus model. I put is on the ODBCII it had misfire codes so I noted them and cleared the codes I also swapped the indicated cylinders plug and coil pack to different cylinders and ask the wife to drive it until the check light returned, she did, it did I checked codes again different misfire signal told me it wasn't plugs or coil packs, there was no coolant in the oil which I had changed recently, no cream in oil filler cap or visible inside engine, all levels were good so no indication of head leak. many reports of EGR system so I did the blanking off test and the symptoms changed slightly but were still there so I pulled the egr valve, pipe and inlet manifold, thoroughly cleaned off all carbon build up of which there wasn't enough to cause a blockage and reassembled and no real change, I did clean throttle body at same time (did not clean MAS) I did change spark plugs because I had a set ready for the next service. after a few days the coolant level dropped a tiny amount to the exact same mark you indicated and has not dropped anymore in last two weeks. Now here's where I'm at, it starts well, occasionally has a rattle which is more evident when decelerating at first corner after leaving the driveway in morning but then drives ok although I can feel something like a tiny missing (probably because I'm tightened looking for it) it powers through the band, idles ok and the only constant is a missing at one RPM around the 1500 every time 40-60kph below or above that you really would not say there was a problem at all? the only thing you mention which I haven't done is clean the MAS mass air flow sensor which I am now going to do in the morning, this car doesn't have a direct throttle cable so using what we used to call fly by wire, a pair of potentiometers one on the pedal the other on the throttle body (TPS) I'm suspecting there may be an ECU issue not getting correct readings for that range, I've seen before where a TPS switch or pedal potentiometer has worn at that point (the point at which your foot sits for cruising the pedal is moving very little but often ) and the ECU can't tell how far you have the pedal pressed and therefore does not know how much fuel/air to give the engine resulting in starvation symptom until pedal is pushed passed that bad point and the ecu (electronic control unit) can see the reading for both and gives the engine the right mixture. anyway its a possible cause I may need to check if cleaning MAS doesn't fix it. at the very least you have confirmed what I've done is correct in diagnosing now if the MAS cleaning works Ill kick myself, the only reason I didn't spray throttle body cleaner through it was it is just a single tiny wire easily damaged but I'll find out tomorrow.
Good luck! Clean the MAF as you suggested. And follow the OBDIi scanner results. I know how frustrating it can be to throw parts at a problem (I have other cars). I have become more disciplined now that I spend time with Jacob an auto technician who always tells me diagnosis and don’t be a parts cannon. A good scanner should answer many of your questions.
@@nevadarobert7908 I got the cleaner and did it thoroughly it didn’t look dirty . Once dried I reinstalled and tested it started and ran nicely on road test though at 1450-1550 rpm it still shudders enough to feel it through steering wheel, speed variable so not balance issue. but does not throw up any codes or check light, I’ll see how it goes next couple of days, I am hopeful
@@nevadarobert7908 I prefer to test and diagnose also, research symptoms and probable causes then in order of ease and cost working through known or most likely causes eliminate until I find it and only replace parts to fix problem
@@waynes9163 Understood. Given a negative scan and all the work you have is there any chance it might be failing engine/transmission mounts? I have an old Mercedes S55 AMG that was running rough with a negative scan that needed new engine mounts. The old one (100,000 miles) were torn and collapsed.
I have a 2012 Prius V which I just bought 2 weeks ago and it just started to shake with a cold start in the morning. I have cleaned the Mass sensor, and throttle body, did an oil change, coolant and inverter flush, but still shakes, for a few seconds and it goes away. I will try to clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor one more time and Im hoping its just that. Will keep an eye out on the oil, and for the mixture of coolant with it, hopefully nothing serious.
I had a similar issue.. hard shake on start up and hard shake on shutdown Ended up being a couple of leaking injectors 187k miles. Bought rebuilt injectors and shakes went away
I agree. I now add MAF sensor cleaning along with throttle body cleaning as part of routine maintenance. I have the parts, tools and skills. Cost is minimal except for time which is “free”.
Egr extended warranty before 10 years/150k, dealer replaced egr valve and updates egr software. Egr valve can stick open in cold weather, no more rattle. But I believe there are other causes of the rattle such as head gasket.
Thanks for the info! I'm guessing cleaning out the throttle body helped a ton because I have cleaned out mass air flow sensor and even replaced it with no effect.
You might want to install an oil catch. This gen is known for feedback from the engine to the combustion chamber through the air manifold. Also clean the fuel ingestion…
Yes that's what I did but I screwed the PCV into the out of the catch can this way its at a higher position allowing the oil to drain back into the engine as a result no more oil burning and clean EGR and EGR cooler
I have 2015 lexus ct200h believe same engine ask the prius. My just start doing the knock sound and with the check engine light Code: p3000 , p3002 and p3003. Lost coolant, is this possibility head gaskets? Or egr value need to clean out? And advices? Thank you in advance!
If you are losing coolant then pressure test the system and send an oil sample to Blackstone for analysis. Also, check for combustion gases . How many miles?
most people have to clean out the egr pipe/valves or a fuel injector flush my car has only made the noise a handful of time in 5 years for just a few seconds
Was there oil buildup under the throttle body? Some install an oil catch can to decrease this and to decrease carbon buildup in the egr system and intake manifold ports. My 2012 with 87 k had alot of egr carbon partially blocking flow. Cleaning egr is supposed to decrease likelihood of head gasket leak.
I have found out that releasing the coolant pressure after turning the car off prevented the issue from reoccurring. But it needs to be done every time, which means I'm having a small coolant leak through the head gasket.
I tested what you said about releasing the pressure from the coolant reservoir, and it doesn't rattle at all after doing that. Did you happen to troubleshoot the issue? Also, my coolant was below the low level line when I started troubleshooting the issue. I did top off to Full to see if it goes down
@@irvingalejandre1702 Yes, this means that you have a blown head gasket. Basically, releasing the pressure prevents the coolant level in the engine from raising and making contact with the head gasket. When you drive, you don't feel it as it gets burned off but when the car is turned off the coolant seeps into the cylinders and it causes engine to shake during start as the pistons are making contact with it, which creates a risk of engine damage, so I would look for getting the gasket replaced if i were you.
The video mentions that the noise goes away and 15 to 30 seconds but I'm wondering if it's safe to let it run that long. When I start the car and the moment I start hearing that knocking I turn it off thinking I'm doing damage to the car. It's a god-awful sound how can I not be? Another oddity is last winner when I went through this I would turn it off and let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes and turn it back on and it would be fine. This is a year later now and I've twice tried to do that unsuccessfully. Just tried a 3rd time and it's smooth but this hasn't solved the problem of course...
If u get codes p301 and losing coolant and only misfire when cold it’s a head gasket look at ur freeze frame on obd scanner it should be in mode 2 freeze frame data good luck look at mode 6 it’s really usefull especially if u car is misfiring
did you try the compression leak test bulb? I've seen videos where they put it in place of the radiator cap, suction some air out to see if there are any exhaust gases to interact with the fluid and change color. not sure how accurate that would be to rule out.
Mine did it once the next start after being hit from behind. The noise went after putting it in neutral. I put it down to being the pin that does the park on the gearbox. It hasn't done it since. The car has 208,000 miles and doesn't miss a beat 🤔
Good plan. FWIW, I now change my oil and filter every 5K miles or 6 months. Easy since I do my own oil changes. I change oil as if my car is “severe “ service. Short distances (4 miles) in freezing weather qualifies as severe duty cycle. I use Costco 0W-20 full synthetic with factory filter. At 72k miles my 3rd gen Prius uses no oil . The Prius is an amazing car. Have fun.
The social media users will tell you the magic fix all is to fill the radiator with stop leak. And then somewhere out in the real world your heater core is plugged up, your car overheats and you discover that Kurt Cobain wasn’t a cast member in Glee after all.
Oh man, all the symptoms you were describing are the same like my 2013 Prius C. However, my has a rattle/clapping sound as if the engine was going to jump out 😅 but only for 15 or 30 seconds at cold start. Then it’s fine after that. Mechanics said it the head gasket but I don’t see any issues with the oil, coolant or smog coming out of the tailpipe. Car has 100k I’m not a mechanic but I do think it’s that. It just went to smog and it passed just fine. No codes or check engine light. Any ideas?
Pressure test the cooling system. Check the coolant for exhaust gases. Send an oil sample for analysis (I use Blackstone). I assume you have new Toyota plugs ? And I always immediately turn off my engine when it acts up then restart it with no symptoms
@@nevadarobert7908 I still have the old plugs in it. I pressured the coolant system and it holds it for about 5 or 8mins then it drops a bit. I don’t know if it’s normal.
I googled it What Does the P0505 Code Mean? Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0505 stands for “Idle Control System.” The code may be accompanied by erratic idle speeds that can lead to stalling and other issues.
Hello Robert. Great video. I'm not that savy in car stuff but it encouraged me to do some maintenance by myself. I got a question. I own an Auris Hybrid for several months now and I hear some whining noise when IC engine is running. I posted it in some forums but folks say that's fine. They said it is coil whining. Yes actually it sounds like coil whining when I compare some videos but I'm not that convinced because I didn't hear that noise in others' Prius videos. Could you take a look? Maybe you might have an idea. Could it be due to some liquid leak? It's at 34k miles. It can clearly be heard after 0:38. ruclips.net/video/yL-lh2cZanE/видео.html Thanks.
To my ears via my phone all I hear is an alarm. Is that noise what you are referring to? And if the car runs fine, then I would be okay. If you have a friend with an OBD2 scanner run it. If no codes that is very reassuring.
@@nevadarobert7908 Do you mean the beeping sound when I shifted to D? No not that one if you mean as alarm. The door was open that was for it. The noise is more like some loose spinning metal plates touching each other. It is a very low high pitch noise in the background. It is like a buzz or whining while in stop but it is more apparent when breaking, especially in low speeds. Car runs just fine there's no problem or any warnings. Anyways I will check with dealership or maybe compare with another hybrid toyota.
@@nevadarobert7908 yes, I have p0300, p0301, p0302 codes, going to check if coils are bad, replace any if needed and if that doesn’t fix ge problem, I’m going to move to doing the pvc valve and clean her system.
I have the same symptoms on 2015 Auris hybrid. It is because I use contact cleaner that contains oil/lubricant instead of airflow sensor cleaner. I ending up use pure isopropanol and it solve the problems. 2013-newer prius has much less issue with head gasket because toyota actually revised the head gasket in 2013. The 2014 has revised piston, the 2015 has revised piston rings. So far, no one with 2015 has oil consumption issue like 2010-2012
@@nevadarobert7908 yes, thats why 4th gen Prius has much less issue too. The 4th gen EGR is after the catalytic converter, it has less shoot and unburned fuel. Most likely has much less EGR clogging issue too after 150k miles unlike 3rd gen. Overal 3rd gen Prius has very less issue besides head gasket and clogged EGR outside normal maintenance. 2nd gen has less issue in engine but more problems on the transmission, either burned stator or bad needle bearings. But we talked about problems beyond 200k miles or abused taxi fleet prius.
Hmmm my 2010 just started doing this. I hope it is something simple like this video, probably is, it IS a Toyota after all. Also, I drive completely the opposite of you, I almost never hypermile, Lol. I do cruise control at every opportunity but I get to speed fast and cruise above the speed limit at all times.
I have the same car with the same problem but you are describing it wrong by saying rough idle or mis fire. It is a violent engine shaking that feels like the motor is about to destruct. I noticed after owning this car for 2 years that it happens after it sits for longer then a couple of days without starting it. I have 232k if anyone cares.
You describe it more accurately. I assumed it is a misfire. Really violent. Oddly, if I turn off the car immediately after the violent shaking the restart of the engine is normal
@@nevadarobert7908 but you are right by saying misfire because from what I understand the 2010 has a piston ring issue and allows oil to seep into the cylinder while the car is at rest. The oil builds up in the cylinder and when you start it it fouls the spark plug and then the car is only running on 3 cylinders while it’s violently shaking the piston that’s not firing is busy blowing oil out of the cylinder until the plug fires
@@nevadarobert7908 I would say change the plugs yourself and keep track of what cylinder the plug looks the most dirty and oily but changing the plugs on 3 gen Prius is a pain. The oily plug would cement the theory. What people are starting to do to combat this problem is to put a oil catch can inline to the pcv valve to prevent the oil from going into the motor and fouling the plugs. It’s the only real solution,Look into it!
I bought a cooling system pressure testing system from Amazon (forgot brand) and a Toyota Prius adapter . I tried renting a coolant pressure tester from O’Reilly auto parts but it had been so abused it would not hold pressure. Hope this helps you
COOLING SYSTEM/RESERVOIR CAP PRESSURE TEST ADAPTER KIT Reference Part Number: 226 Call for Information Continue Shopping DetailsKit Info Kit Components 09231- 10110-01 RESERVOIR CAP PRESSURE TEST ADAPTER 09231- 10120-01 COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST ADAPTER Bosch Automotive Service Solutions Inc. Attn: Returned Goods 755 Eisenhower Dr. Owatonna, MN 55060 Talk to us 1-800-933-8335 Comments and Questions Special Sercvice Tools and General Inquiries: otc@service-solutions.com Loan Tool Inquiries: toyotaloantools@service-soluti
Hate to harp on the elephant in the room, but you still haven't explained why the cooling system won't hold pressure. Unfortunately, the most likely explanation is that you still have a head gasket issue, although it may be small. If you let the car sit for an extended period (weeks or a month) you'd probably see the rough morning idle return or worse, hydro lock the engine (not advised). You should perform these additional tests: 1) pressure test again, but this time, remove the engine oil dipstick and listen for air escaping through the dipstick tube. If this is the case, you have a head gasket issue. 2) do a "sniff" test. You can purchase these at any auto parts store. It's basically a blue dye that will turn green if you have a head gasket leak. Good luck.
@@skyline2760I pressure tested the cooling system and I sent an oil sample to Blackstone. Also, no loss of coolant and no combustion gases found in coolant.
Find a good mechanic who knows Toyotas. A Toyota dealer is always a good start for a diagnosis. I have a superb Toyota mechanic in Homer Glen, Illinois. TCCN Automotive Inc. 15751 Annico Dr. Unit 3 Homer Glen, IL 60491 Best of luck.
My prius gen 3 has this engine noise at start problem and probably other things as well. It finally shut off and I had to tow it to the dealership (Toyota auto nation Hayward CA). $180 later got an estimate of about $10k for a used engine & hybrid battery replacement. I towed it back to my place 😰😰😭😭 Charged the hybrid myself (1 cell at a time). Replaced: coil pack / spark plugs / 12V battery. The Prius is back on the road and driving everyday since 2 weeks ago. Still dealing with the intermittent engine noise when it starts. The noise from mine is not restricted to cold start, though. I think my prius egr system seems to be acting up. Waiting for part to arrive. I will definitely check my mass flow sensor, thanks to this video. I'm saving the estimate papers from Toyota AutoNation Hayward California to pick up my dog's excrements with.
How many miles? I also service everything like coolant ( radiator and inverter) transmission fluid, brake fluid. Oil and filter every 5 k or 6 months. Your work in getting your Prius running is outstanding
@@nevadarobert7908 220k. I've been suspecting my inverter coolant pump is not working I don't see any movement in the inverter coolant reservoir. Besides replacing the coolant & pump what other service is there for the inverter? I've been thinking about looking up the inverter to check the solder joint if any and or boards and contacts in there.
I have read that Toyota modified the intake manifold in cold climates as moisture would freeze causing rough starts. Mine is the last year (2015) so intake manifold problem not a cause. I suspect multiple causes for same rough start. Before I fixed mine I would immediately turn off the car and restart it with no more rough idle. Best of luck.
I had an issue where my 15 Prius had an excessive engine rattle. Usually when you have a blown head gasket your engine will rattle for a few seconds and then it goes away. My problem was the knock off Toyota ignition coils I bought on eBay. They were good for a couple of years and went bad on me. Had the ignition coils replaced with dealership purchased coils & problem solved. I checked my car for common blown head gasket symptoms and it didn't have any so after further research and help from my hybrid specialist mechanic it was determined that the ignition coils were the problem. He saved me lots of $$$. Hard to find an honest mechanic nowadays.
Great story and great advice
@@nevadarobert7908 Thanks, certain things you can buy online, like wiper blades and stuff but for important engine components, dealership.
@@nevadarobert7908 thanks bro 🫡
I had the same issue. Mine's a 2010 Prius with 258K miles. I cleaned intake maifold since it was filled with dirty oil inside each ports, replaced EGR valve, cleaned throttle body and replaced PCV valve. The rough idle gone. Not sure which or all solved the issue but since I was doing this and had to take out a lot parts, might as well clean and replace.
258k! That is awesome!
Thanks so much for sharing this! Just experienced my first rough idle in subzero temperatures two days ago and I’ve been sleepless worrying about a head gasket. Will go through the steps and pray that my problem was the same as yours. Thanks again.
Good luck! I love my Prius!
I know exactly how you feel. I am curious. What year? How many miles?
I have a 2012 Prius V2 that I purchased brand new with 6-9 miles on it (I put on during test drive). I purchased in the fall, and Mine did it with less than 1000 miles on it. My dad is a (now retired) ase certified mechanic for 45+ years. Here's my take on it. It's always a cold start condition. And, It's usually always cooler outside air temp - with or sometime without high humidity. first start of the car for the day - when certain conditions (temp humidity) were just right, mine would do this. (brand new car). let it rattle for a few seconds - key off. wait about 10-30 seconds, hit button again - startup was normal. My theory - is this. The prius is an atkinson cycle engine - so it has a bit of blow back into the intake during compression stroke. that means there is residual fuel vapor, etc. in the intake which may or may not be a contributor. but - run the engine the day before - shut down - it sets overnight - any of that unburned vapor condenses in the intake. then -I think toyota tends to be a little on the generous side on fuel delivery at cold start - i.e. if it were a carburetor, it would be a little heavy on the choke and therefore have a pretty rich air fuel ratio on cold start. This, in the right conditions would fowl a spark plug and you have the dreaded misfire death rattle. giving it a few seconds - shutting it down, waiting and then restarting - allows some of that initial firing heat, to warm the cylinder, and intake air, etc. so that on second fire - it usually starts normal. That's my theory anyway. I've also noticed on very very cold days and high humidity - talking single digit temps (F) and 30% humidity or so in the winter - driving thru town at very light throttle speeds 35-45 it would also tend to develop a surging rpm. I'm thinking the computer was fighting the algorithm to go into EV mode- when the heat demand was there wanting the engine to run. not sure on that one. could be dirty throttle body at that point. cheap ethanol fuel - who knows. but that's my take on the startup rattle. The first 10 years I had the car I drove an hour commute each day to and from work - avg. 36000 miles per year. now today I drive about 7 miles to work, have 228000 miles on the car, original battery pack, and believe it or not - original factory brake pads. i'm impressed. great car for what is does. My mileage has slipped over the years - from an avg. of 47 mpg on the high side to a little over 39 now. I attribute that to battery pack fatigue. and I drive a lot more short trips - rather than setting cruise at 60 on state highway. I did run into oil burn at 150k - -but have since reduced that. I assume and found that when I took my car to the dealer for oil changes - I think they put conventional in it from their bulk tank - when I started doing my own oil changes again after that - I now only burn oil with extended interstate use at higher rpm and speeds. about a quart in 5000 miles -- as opposed to 3 in 5000 miles initially...when it started. I can't complain. not sure what my next vehicle will be as I had wanted to go back to a small pickup like the s-10 or today's colorado or something - but I like the looks of the new prius - so who knows. will see. cheers!
I should also state - I've never changed spark plugs (they are iridium and practically last forever). I have only changed oil with full 0w-20 mobile 1 synthetic, initially every 10k miles - now over 200k I do it at 5000 miles interval. I have only put an air filter on the car, and on my 4th set of tires over the years - having got 60-90k miles on each set. everything else on the car is original - and no check engine lights - been very fortunate.
Your description is right on
1.You need to clean out you EGR and EGR cooler 2. You need to move your PVC at a higher position and install a oil catch can.. personal experience that's what I did no more problems
Thank you 😊
March 2020 purchased 2012 Prius V with 146K miles on it. Ran great for 6 Mos then my first of many episodes of the dreaded "Death Rattle" at start up. RUclips University here I come. 1st recommendation change the spark plugs and coil packs. 60K miles later the killer rattle is back. This time consistently losing coolant. Possibly blown head gask. Used the recommended K-12 sealant even though there is no signs of cross contaminating in the oil or coolant and no white smoke from tail pipe. This worked for about 7K miles. 220K miles at the point so just clean the MAF sensor. Death Rattle stops for about two weeks then starts again. Purchased and installed brand new Denso MAF sensor but that didn't resolve the problem. Back to RUclips U. this time a suggestion to remove the O-ring from the engine coolant overflow cap to relieve the pressure from the system. That working for now. Put the O-ring back on to have the coolant changed yesterday. She's at 240K miles, not getting any error codes using the FIXED OBE sensor I keep plugged in. We'll see what happens next. Cheers!
You rock! Great story. The lack of codes is frustrating
Great video. When diagnose a small issue, always start from basic things, maintenance and basic cleaning service.
I agree. So much easier.
place into d or r immediately after ready before engine starts... no rattle ... install oil catch can...
Excellent idea! Thanks
I bought a used Gen 3 which had a very rough idle at startup that soon stopped. 60+ years ago, I worked pumped gas at a GMC truck repair shop that was owned by two WW2 truck mechanics for the Red Ball express -- vital to keep the front line supplied.
That's where I learned about products like Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil that kept those truck moving.
Both still sell well 80 years later. I tried the Rislone first and drove it about 100 miles. That ended the rough idle.
My mileage went up. That stuff is unbelievbly slippery. Techtron is similar and highly regarded.
In a previous Prius with 240,000 miles, I stuck with major brands like Sunoco which seems to have kept everything clean.
All gasoline comes to New England where it gets pumped into immense tanks that have addatives that "Crap gas" doesn't.
That has been my experience.
Thanks for posting this video! It was really well done, and it's always good when we Prius owners can help each other out. Don't be too quick to dismiss a dirty throttle body and throttle plate as a source of rough or noisy idle. Too much "deposit", or build-up, particularly where the outer edge of the throttle plate meets the wall of the throttle body, can cause the throttle plate to "stick" and make it difficult for the ECU to control the engine's idle speed, especially when the engine is cold. Another way to test for a faulty head gasket is to pull all four spark plugs and use an endoscope to examine the inside of the cylinders. An unusually clean and shiny cylinder is a common symptom of coolant leaking into a cylinder. Again, thanks for taking the time and making the effort to help your fellow Prius owners!
I love helping Prius owners!
Great question. I always suspected my pressure tester had a tiny air leak. The oil analysis done by Blackstone shows no coolant in the oil and no coolant loss.
The head gasket problem is real I forget the exact years mine was a 2010, It has a knocking sound and goes away pretty quick, you start off loosing very little coolant, your check engine light will come on, the malfunction code you will get is for a Cylinder misfiring or issue. Driving though there was no issues with power or anything else it drove like normal. I tried replacing the coils and the check engine light turned off for a few days then came back and I was still loosing very little coolant. I eventually took it to a shop and I ended up going to like 3 of them all saying it's a very common problem the head gasket is leaking coolant into the engine the Cylinders. The last shop which was pretty far from I lived specialized in this though, that was all they did every day all day. They told me basically the adhesive Toyota used slowly deteriated over time on the head gasket, the head gasket itself is not expensive it's the cost to replace it. The extra problems you will deal with if you don't get it fixed in a decent amount of time are the water pump and doing damage to the actual cylinders.
Having the same issue. I cleaned the MAF sensor, tested the head gasket, replaced EGR, cleaned throttle body and intake manifold, replaced plugs, coils, and injectors…I still have a rattle on start that smooths out once RPMs increase. I’m going to pull off the cam cover and test the tensioner next. If you have any more suggestions, please let me know!
Wow! I am impressed at how thorough you are investigating the problem . Quick question. How many miles? Does the rattle occur with every startup? Hot and cold engine? How long has this been going on? Finally, any codes with OBD2 reader?
I have 190,000 miles. The rattle caused a misfire code on cylinders 1 and 3, but I had the codes cleared, and they have not duplicated since. The rattle only happens at start up for a few seconds, and it happens very intermittently. It does not deviate based on ambient temperature or engine temperature. The problem seems to be getting worse though. Now the car is puttering slightly at idle or low RPMs with regularity. Fixing the car is a labor of love. My Prius and I have been through so much together, and I think she has a lot of miles left in her if I can address this issue.
@@nowheretoofar I assume did a compression test? Results? Your rattle sounds just like mine.
@@nowheretoofar I understand loving your Prius.
I did a chemical test for compression gases in my coolant. My oil is clean also. I’m replacing my tensioner now. Fingers crossed it works!!
Had my Gen 2 Prius shaking really hard at startup. No issues with sparkplugs or headgasket. I cleaned the throttle body with some carb cleaner, a toothbrush, and a rag. Issue was solved with 15 minutes of work.
Great news. Good job!
Install a catch can, that’s it. Obviously clean everything before doing the install. ChNge the pcv. Cold weather is a contributing factor definitely. I notice my catch can filling up more often in the winter than the summer. There is a correlation between colder temps and condensation of oil/gas/water vapors
Good advice
You got a hell of a deal on this car!
You are correct. I bought it used when no one wanted them. 7 years old now. 90k miles. A neighbor teases me when I drive it instead of my 2017 Audi A8L (purchased used of course). Awesome around town car.
Great video. My 2010 Prius with about 217,000 mile kept losing coolant but doesn’t know where it’s going. It doesn’t seem like it’s mixing with the oil and I believe I have gasket blown up. I tried to bars leak which stopped the rattle. And lately it started to rattle For at least a few minutes before it stopped then my engine light comes on with a code cylinder number two and four are misfiring. Don’t know too much about mechanics. Any suggestion will help. Thank you.
It will come back, you need to clean the intake manifold as well, it is the intake manifold that have too much oil accumulate that cause the issue, I have the same issue too. Clean the intake manifold and replace the PCV value (under the intake manifold). Then install a oil catcher and you can completely avoid this problem in maybe in the next 150K miles. The car is really well made with small number of defective designs due to compliance to US population regulation.
Thank you for your comments. I know Nutznbolts installed a oil catch can too. I am impressed that so far my Gen 3 Prius uses no oil every oil change with 5000 mile interval. I will put a catch can in and monitor it
ERG system issues.
@@hondatrix you may mean *Egr -exhaust gas recirculation
The same thing happened to me with my sniper efi install any solutions please ?
@@Truther00singer efi for the Prius? I couldn't find info on it
I had it, got cyl 1 misfire code. Then progressed with cyl 3 too. Confirmed head gasket leak and replaced head gasket along with intake manifold (old one was ultra nasty) replaced most EGR components but thoroughly cleaned EGR cooler. Also replaced spark plugs. This was at 189k miles. At 205k I have cyl 4 misfiring. Same rough starting symptoms but it also runs rough while driving except it’s smooth at full throttle. Probably injector. Going to swap coils to rule it out quickly. Then looking at replacement of the original injectors.
Any updates?
I got a 2015 Prius and I'm thankful it's running great. 130k miles and no issues. I've maintained the shit out of it and that's probably why it's going strong still.
Exactly! I have been told that the best gen 3 Prius is the 2015. The rumor is that all the problems were resolved by 2015. Hope the rumor is true
@@nevadarobert7908 I know for a fact because I have friends that work for the dealership that the Pistons and Rings for the 2015 are different from the other gen 3 models. Different part number and everything. By the way, I changed my thermostat & water pump at 90k miles, when should I do it again? Not too sure on how long the water pumps last on these cars.
@@joeshmoe8952 I don’t have an answer on water pump replacement. I change my coolant every 3 years hoping it preserves my pump. My car is at 85 k miles. I assume a OBD2 code will appear.
@@nevadarobert7908 Ok cool, no problem. Thanks for the info.
Thank you, helped a lot. Nicely investigated with your limited experience.
Thank you
My car did that this morning weather was 45. I'm going to clean the mass air sensor as soon as get home. Thank you
Update. As soon as I got home. I clean the mass air sensor. Waited about 15 minutes. Put it back in the car. Went for a drive. Car running a lot better. This morning was like 54 degrees at 6 am. Car started smooth. Ones again thank you so much. Best of luck to you 👍
Today was 37 degrees outside my place. Very cold 🥶 for me hahaha. Car started smooth again. What a relief. I was thinking I had blown head gasket. 😅
@@fredpalacios507thanks for the updates
I had the same issues. Eventually it got worse and head gasket replacement fixed it. It’s actually not that hard to replace a head gasket on these Prius. These is a step by step video on RUclips on how to do it.
I was glad my investigation showed my head gasket was good. I was worried it was a head gasket. I will look for head gasket replacement videos
@@nevadarobert7908 I used this video for my headgasket replacement. ruclips.net/video/jxjIzhpwW78/видео.html
@@misscuterthanyouable I thank you for posting the link.
I think the cold start issue might also be related to the EGR not functioning properly. There was a TSB on this very issue that was causing a cold start problem in the 3rd gen. Prius. A faulty EGR can also cause a head gasket issue. It might be a good idea to keep your eye on it. It's a 200 dollar part but it's possible they worked out the issue with the design flaw of the original.
Great comment. I will ask the parts department if the EGR has been updated since my Prius was built. Do you have a number for the TSB? I would love to look it up.
@@nevadarobert7908 I do not have the TSB, As a prius owner you should of been sent the notice in the mail. We received ours and they were offering either a software update or the replacement of the EGR. In our case they only did the software update but the problem still remains occasionally. They were only offering the EGR replacement to Prius owners that were receiving a code. In our case no code but problem is still there. I currently have an appointment with the dealer so they can check the EGR. My main concern is that a faulty EGR can contribute to a head gasket failure and as you know that would be an expensive fix.
@@nevadarobert7908 You probably found the number a long time ago, but there are two TSBs related to the issue. One deals with rough running at cold start(EGR valve has become non functional due to clogging) and the other deals with a misfiring engine while driving(EGR ports in the intake manifold are clogged).
T-SB-0116-15 - Misfire While Driving With EGR Active(P030#) - This involves replacing the intake manifold. The EGR ports in the plastic manifold are just too small and curved to get them completely clean. A DIY mechanic might be able to open the ports back up with a spray cleaner that doesn't attack plastics, and/or use a long, thin, pipe cleaning brush with softer bristles to try and get the carbon build up out, but you may or may not be successful, and the problem may or may not come back over time.
T-SB-0027-16 - Rattle After Cold Start(P0401) - This involves replacing the EGR valve and gaskets, some sort of minor wiring modification, as well as an ECU update to prevent the problem from recurring. Just like the manifold, you may or may not be able to clean the EGR valve enough to get it functional again. You could spend hours or days taking it all apart, making a mess while cleaning the caked carbon out, putting it all back together, only to find you didn't fix the problem or the problem recurs weeks or months down the road. At the very least, the problem will definitely recur at some point without the ECU update.
Regarding head gasket issues, there's also a separate problem with piston rings getting gunked up and causing excess friction and overheating of the head leading to warping and a blown head gasket, but that only applied to the 2010 Prius and maybe some early 2011s. Only way to fix that one permanently is an engine rebuild or replacement since it's poor metallurgy in the rings that is the root cause of that problem. If you own one of the affected engines and missed the window to get your engine rebuilt under warranty, all you can do is cross your fingers and hope the problem never develops for you. Keeping the EGR system clean can help keep the head temperature within normal limits and maybe delay or prevent the head from warping.
Final note: the EGR problem is made much worse by overfilling your engine oil. NEVER fill your oil to the top line when the engine is cold. You never want the oil level to exceed the top line after the engine gets hot. Because the starter is powered by the main hybrid battery, it spins the engine almost instantly to idle speeds(1000+ RPM). That has a tendency to slosh the engine oil around violently. If the oil level is too high, that's even more oil to splash, and more of it gets into the EGR intake port. Toyota solved the problem in the gen4 Prius engine by moving the EGR intake port in the block/head to a location that's less susceptible to the problem, but overfilling the oil can even negate that fix.
I'm not any form of mechanic, but I own a 2010 Prius that's about to hit 80k and I'm about to have the two TSBs done to future-proof my vehicle(I think it's just starting to run rough on a cold start). Since it's over 12 years old, I'm having them do the 120k/144 month service plus some extra stuff like these TSBs and ATF and brake fluid swaps. I did a bunch of this research to prep for the service.
@@michaelkemmet834 Amazing and thorough posting. Thank you!
@@michaelkemmet834 WOW!!! Thanks for all that info.
I have a 2010 Prius that just turned 180,000 miles. Changed oil every 10,000 miles. Hopefully we can get another year out of it. The spark plugs were just changed, the throttle body was cleaned and are getting 50 miles per gallon of gas.
Nice!
Would you mind sharing the name/part number of the special adapter you found, for the coolant recovery tank? Great reminder type video. Thank you.
COOLING SYSTEM/RESERVOIR
CAP PRESSURE TEST
ADAPTER KIT
Reference Part Number: 226
Call for
Information
Continue Shopping
DetailsKit Info
Kit Components
09231-
10110-01
RESERVOIR CAP PRESSURE TEST
ADAPTER
09231-
10120-01
COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST
ADAPTER
Bosch Automotive Service Solutions
Inc.
Attn: Returned Goods
755 Eisenhower Dr.
Owatonna, MN 55060
Talk to us 1-800-933-8335
Comments and Questions
Special Sercvice Tools and General Inquiries:
otc@service-solutions.com
Loan Tool Inquiries:
toyotaloantools@service-soluti
@@nevadarobert7908 Thank you!
Some parts you must get from dealers like atf-ws.
The oil filter not so. Currently I use kn7021
In the past I used stp from autozone. Toyota buys and uses stp all the time. Toyota buys stp offer 2.50
Autozo e sells them 7.99
Then Toyota sells these stp for 15.99
You pay hiv bg er price for the same thing and you feel good.
If you have to change headmaster DoNot put toyota gasket some of these lots were bad and this is why so many blown gaskets.
Very good information. Thank you
Mass air flow sensor is the likely cause of this. One thing to note when I was driving my Prius C and if it was really raining out and I'm behind semis and they're stirring up a lot of moisture the mass airflow sensor would get wet and unable to monitor the airflow. My car would shut down. I would have to take out the air filter Wipe Out the inside of the air filter compartment and of course reach around the corner and wipe off the mass airflow sensor. I would then use my OBD2 reader which is Bluetooth + reset the code. I was then able to operate my vehicle but that's like moisture overtime can also oxidize the sensor. Living in the Northeast during the winter there is a lot of salt and moisture that comes into the air intake. This would also put a lot of wear onto the mass air flow sensor so after a while you'll need to clean it or replace it I find that most of these rough idle situations are because of the mass airflow sensor. I've replaced mine twice. My 2015 Prius C has over 300,000 miles now.
Good advice And 300k is amazing. You take very good car of your car.
Did you check and clean your EGR valve and pipe for carbon build up?
Cold startup "shudder" may occur secondary to condensation in intake manifold, bad gas, fuel injector problems among a host of other incidentals. Recently (150000 miles) I cleaned the intake manifold and egr apparatus with a resultant quick shudder on starting. No codes present. Coils, plugs, pcv, and thermostat all "toyota new".
Catch can has few cc of oil/water "chocolate milk" without any evidence of my 2013 Prius V burning any oil.
Will keep looking.
Bummer. My shudder would last 4-5 seconds. Was truly violent. If I immediately shut off the motor the microsecond it happened and then immediately restated it with no shudder. Mine is a 2015 with 80K . I really like my Prius. I wish you the best of luck. My car has never had a CEL. I never checked with my scanner. The Prius V is a nice car.
@@nevadarobert7908 slowly replacing transducers with "lifetime warranty" transducers from autozone. Beats cleaning them.
Thanks for sharing your thought process. Very cogent. Very helpful.
Your story is classic. Glad you got it. How many miles?
I'm from the Netherlands and in Europe we have the Prius, but also the Auris (which in America is still called Corolla), with the same engine and drivetrain as the Prius, the 1.8 hybrid. Mine is from 2013, has 195000 km (120k miles) and doesn't burn oil. I change the oil every 10.000 kilometers myself. I believe in preventing problems instead of solving them. So I change the oil every 10k km's and are going to install an OCC. That keeps the engine and the EGR-system clean, so hopefully no headgasket problems Overall I'm very happy with the car.
My 2015 Gen 3 Prius is a super reliable car. Like you I service it regularly. Prevention is so much easier than repair. And cheaper. I only have 75k miles on mine (120 km). I just replaced a 6x9 passenger door speaker. Enjoy
Experienced this on a 2014 Lexus CT200H at 3 years old and around 30k miles. I turned off the ignition after a few seconds as there was also a strong smell of unburnt gas. Car was under warranty with Lexus and so we had it towed to them for inspection. They couldn’t replicate the issue but said they changed the EGR as a precaution. Car was fine afterwards but I was concerned over the issue returning and requiring expensive work and so we traded it. There are some posts that also claim over filling the oil level can cause this too, and that a start up misfire in an Atkinson cycle motor is more severe and damaging. My advice would be to switch off immediately and wait a few minutes before restarting.
Excellent advice
You bet. I can’t recall the guys name but he works on Toyota hybrids. He laid out the sequence of events that lead to head gasket failure. Excess oil gets into the throttle body, which then gets coated onto the plugs. At cold start any moisture in the cylinders with the oil can cause the start up misfire. The Atkinson cycle takes longer to clear a misfire than a conventional gas engine and is more severe. As some cylinders are actually firing normally during the misfire period there is unequal thermal load / warm up on the head and block which over time will result in head gasket failure. Seems to effect cylinder #1 the most. Safe driving bro.
@H71BCD "The car care nut guy", AMD. Love his channel and he is honest....
Great video man what pump did u connect to the adapter to coolant tank to pressurize the cooling system thank in advance
Just a cheap pressure tester I bought off of Amazon for pressure testing radiators.
Not likely to have a head gasket issue if you are driving on the freeway a lot because the gas motor isn't cycling on and off as much.
my wife has a 2012 CT200h in Australia so no cold weather issues lo, its done about 160k it started this common rattling like mad at startup and idle and would go away and return at idle.
I retired from being a mechanic years ago so have no experience with this hybrid or Lexus model. I put is on the ODBCII it had misfire codes so I noted them and cleared the codes I also swapped the indicated cylinders plug and coil pack to different cylinders and ask the wife to drive it until the check light returned, she did, it did I checked codes again different misfire signal told me it wasn't plugs or coil packs, there was no coolant in the oil which I had changed recently, no cream in oil filler cap or visible inside engine, all levels were good so no indication of head leak.
many reports of EGR system so I did the blanking off test and the symptoms changed slightly but were still there so I pulled the egr valve, pipe and inlet manifold, thoroughly cleaned off all carbon build up of which there wasn't enough to cause a blockage and reassembled and no real change, I did clean throttle body at same time (did not clean MAS) I did change spark plugs because I had a set ready for the next service. after a few days the coolant level dropped a tiny amount to the exact same mark you indicated and has not dropped anymore in last two weeks.
Now here's where I'm at, it starts well, occasionally has a rattle which is more evident when decelerating at first corner after leaving the driveway in morning but then drives ok although I can feel something like a tiny missing (probably because I'm tightened looking for it) it powers through the band, idles ok and the only constant is a missing at one RPM around the 1500 every time 40-60kph below or above that you really would not say there was a problem at all?
the only thing you mention which I haven't done is clean the MAS mass air flow sensor which I am now going to do in the morning, this car doesn't have a direct throttle cable so using what we used to call fly by wire, a pair of potentiometers one on the pedal the other on the throttle body (TPS) I'm suspecting there may be an ECU issue not getting correct readings for that range, I've seen before where a TPS switch or pedal potentiometer has worn at that point (the point at which your foot sits for cruising the pedal is moving very little but often ) and the ECU can't tell how far you have the pedal pressed and therefore does not know how much fuel/air to give the engine resulting in starvation symptom until pedal is pushed passed that bad point and the ecu (electronic control unit) can see the reading for both and gives the engine the right mixture. anyway its a possible cause I may need to check if cleaning MAS doesn't fix it.
at the very least you have confirmed what I've done is correct in diagnosing now if the MAS cleaning works Ill kick myself, the only reason I didn't spray throttle body cleaner through it was it is just a single tiny wire easily damaged but I'll find out tomorrow.
Good luck! Clean the MAF as you suggested. And follow the OBDIi scanner results. I know how frustrating it can be to throw parts at a problem (I have other cars). I have become more disciplined now that I spend time with Jacob an auto technician who always tells me diagnosis and don’t be a parts cannon. A good scanner should answer many of your questions.
@@nevadarobert7908 I got the cleaner and did it thoroughly it didn’t look dirty .
Once dried I reinstalled and tested it started and ran nicely on road test though at 1450-1550 rpm it still shudders enough to feel it through steering wheel, speed variable so not balance issue.
but does not throw up any codes or check light, I’ll see how it goes next couple of days, I am hopeful
@@nevadarobert7908 I prefer to test and diagnose also, research symptoms and probable causes then in order of ease and cost working through known or most likely causes eliminate until I find it and only replace parts to fix problem
@@nevadarobert7908 I have the same scanner as you have and downloaded the Lexus software ran full scans nothing recorded for now
@@waynes9163 Understood. Given a negative scan and all the work you have is there any chance it might be failing engine/transmission mounts? I have an old Mercedes S55 AMG that was running rough with a negative scan that needed new engine mounts. The old one (100,000 miles) were torn and collapsed.
I have a 2012 Prius V which I just bought 2 weeks ago and it just started to shake with a cold start in the morning. I have cleaned the Mass sensor, and throttle body, did an oil change, coolant and inverter flush, but still shakes, for a few seconds and it goes away. I will try to clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor one more time and Im hoping its just that. Will keep an eye out on the oil, and for the mixture of coolant with it, hopefully nothing serious.
How many miles? BTW, I love the Prius V! How does it run once warmed up?
I had a similar issue.. hard shake on start up and hard shake on shutdown
Ended up being a couple of leaking injectors 187k miles. Bought rebuilt injectors and shakes went away
Any codes?
Agreed. I have heard they fixed all gen 3 issues for last year (2015).
Mass air flow sensor if bad check engine light will be on
I agree. I now add MAF sensor cleaning along with throttle body cleaning as part of routine maintenance. I have the parts, tools and skills. Cost is minimal except for time which is “free”.
Egr extended warranty before 10 years/150k, dealer replaced egr valve and updates egr software. Egr valve can stick open in cold weather, no more rattle.
But I believe there are other causes of the rattle such as head gasket.
I agree that there are multiple causes. The extended warranty, is it limited to the 2010 and 2011?
How come the pressure only held for a couple minutes?
I cleaned the EGR and intake manifold, replace the PCR valve and it fixed the problem. Cost $15 for parts and cleaner.
What did you use to Clean?
@@cliffbythesea2114 brake cleaner, small brushes, and some rags.
Greetings from Puerto Rico! It's the same issue on a 2019 toyota yaris ?
Applies only to hybrids gen 3 2010-2014
You in Michigan
I’m pointing to the throttle body clean
I clean my tb every couple of years and the MAF sensor too
Thanks for the info!
I'm guessing cleaning out the throttle body helped a ton because I have cleaned out mass air flow sensor and even replaced it with no effect.
FYI, always use genuine Toyota parts if you can. Use throttle body cleaner too. Take your time.
Are the head gaskets problems, Mass air sensor, EGR valve, a common on the 2017 Prius V models also? Mine only has 56K
Excellent question. I don’t think so as the 2017 Prius V is a gen 3 Prius. I believe the 2015 gen 3 Prius corrected the issues.
@@nevadarobert7908
I hope you're right.
You might want to install an oil catch. This gen is known for feedback from the engine to the combustion chamber through the air manifold. Also clean the fuel ingestion…
Excellent suggestion!
Yes that's what I did but I screwed the PCV into the out of the catch can this way its at a higher position allowing the oil to drain back into the engine as a result no more oil burning and clean EGR and EGR cooler
@@markferris3674 great tip thank you!
I have 2015 lexus ct200h believe same engine ask the prius. My just start doing the knock sound and with the check engine light Code: p3000 , p3002 and p3003. Lost coolant, is this possibility head gaskets? Or egr value need to clean out? And advices? Thank you in advance!
If you are losing coolant then pressure test the system and send an oil sample to Blackstone for analysis. Also, check for combustion gases . How many miles?
@@nevadarobert7908 the mileage at 142k now
I dont think you showed anything, but you did tell us the probable cause with corrective measures.
Thanks for the feedback
Gentleman and a Scholar
No codes
I replaced the injection coils and that fixed it for me.
Nice What suggested the coils?
Injection coils? Are you talking about the injectors or the coil packs?
most people have to clean out the egr pipe/valves or a fuel injector flush my car has only made the noise a handful of time in 5 years for just a few seconds
The roughness. Is unsettling. Glad yours is good
Was there oil buildup under the throttle body? Some install an oil catch can to decrease this and to decrease carbon buildup in the egr system and intake manifold ports.
My 2012 with 87 k had alot of egr carbon partially blocking flow. Cleaning egr is supposed to decrease likelihood of head gasket leak.
@@CC-sf8jn No oil in my TB. Nutznbolts has a great video on his catch can installation
Ignition coil Bank 1 Bank 2 Bank 3 or4 if it's only a 4 cylinder
Did you figure out why you have the pressure leak out of the radiator?
If memory serves it was a poor fit on the reservoir cap
@@nevadarobert7908 I see. Thanks. I think the radiator cap does go faulty but the Toyota dealership service deprt. don't tell us.
I have found out that releasing the coolant pressure after turning the car off prevented the issue from reoccurring. But it needs to be done every time, which means I'm having a small coolant leak through the head gasket.
I agree. How many miles on your Prius?
@@nevadarobert7908 178k
@@gibson7654 Dang! Some serious mileage
I tested what you said about releasing the pressure from the coolant reservoir, and it doesn't rattle at all after doing that. Did you happen to troubleshoot the issue? Also, my coolant was below the low level line when I started troubleshooting the issue. I did top off to Full to see if it goes down
@@irvingalejandre1702 Yes, this means that you have a blown head gasket. Basically, releasing the pressure prevents the coolant level in the engine from raising and making contact with the head gasket. When you drive, you don't feel it as it gets burned off but when the car is turned off the coolant seeps into the cylinders and it causes engine to shake during start as the pistons are making contact with it, which creates a risk of engine damage, so I would look for getting the gasket replaced if i were you.
The video mentions that the noise goes away and 15 to 30 seconds but I'm wondering if it's safe to let it run that long. When I start the car and the moment I start hearing that knocking I turn it off thinking I'm doing damage to the car. It's a god-awful sound how can I not be?
Another oddity is last winner when I went through this I would turn it off and let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes and turn it back on and it would be fine. This is a year later now and I've twice tried to do that unsuccessfully. Just tried a 3rd time and it's smooth but this hasn't solved the problem of course...
I agree with your comments. I would immediately upon the noise turn off the engine. Just like you the noise did not return.
I agree with your comments. When I heard the noise, stop and restarting the engine solved it .
And don't forget about spark plug wires spark plugs EGR or PCV valve
Were you getting any error codes/check engine light?
No codes or lights. Really bizarre. My research indicates this lack of codes is very common.
If u get codes p301 and losing coolant and only misfire when cold it’s a head gasket look at ur freeze frame on obd scanner it should be in mode 2 freeze frame data good luck look at mode 6 it’s really usefull especially if u car is misfiring
did you try the compression leak test bulb? I've seen videos where they put it in place of the radiator cap, suction some air out to see if there are any exhaust gases to interact with the fluid and change color. not sure how accurate that would be to rule out.
No I didn’t. Excellent idea.
Hi there I got this big problem my Prius is loosing a lot of speed going up hill can anyone help me what is going on?
OBD2 scanner is first try. How many miles?
Mine did it once the next start after being hit from behind. The noise went after putting it in neutral. I put it down to being the pin that does the park on the gearbox. It hasn't done it since. The car has 208,000 miles and doesn't miss a beat 🤔
That is hood to know. Thanks
Whoaaa!! 208,000? That’s impressive. Ride on.😎
this was the perfect video! No coolant loss, cleaned the air flow senor. Oil is next, even tho im only at 7500.
Good plan. FWIW, I now change my oil and filter every 5K miles or 6 months. Easy since I do my own oil changes. I change oil as if my car is “severe “ service. Short distances (4 miles) in freezing weather qualifies as severe duty cycle. I use Costco 0W-20 full synthetic with factory filter. At 72k miles my 3rd gen Prius uses no oil . The Prius is an amazing car. Have fun.
The social media users will tell you the magic fix all is to fill the radiator with stop leak. And then somewhere out in the real world your heater core is plugged up, your car overheats and you discover that Kurt Cobain wasn’t a cast member in Glee after all.
Stop leak has always seemed like a bad idea.
Oh man, all the symptoms you were describing are the same like my 2013 Prius C. However, my has a rattle/clapping sound as if the engine was going to jump out 😅 but only for 15 or 30 seconds at cold start. Then it’s fine after that.
Mechanics said it the head gasket but I don’t see any issues with the oil, coolant or smog coming out of the tailpipe. Car has 100k
I’m not a mechanic but I do think it’s that. It just went to smog and it passed just fine. No codes or check engine light. Any ideas?
Pressure test the cooling system. Check the coolant for exhaust gases. Send an oil sample for analysis (I use Blackstone). I assume you have new Toyota plugs ? And I always immediately turn off my engine when it acts up then restart it with no symptoms
@@nevadarobert7908 I still have the old plugs in it. I pressured the coolant system and it holds it for about 5 or 8mins then it drops a bit. I don’t know if it’s normal.
@@dair805 as long as you are not consuming coolant. If you are adding coolant that is a problem.
hi i have 2010 prius ，code is p0505，how can do this work。
I googled it
What Does the P0505 Code Mean?
Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0505 stands for “Idle Control System.” The code may be accompanied by erratic idle speeds that can lead to stalling and other issues.
Hello Robert. Great video. I'm not that savy in car stuff but it encouraged me to do some maintenance by myself. I got a question. I own an Auris Hybrid for several months now and I hear some whining noise when IC engine is running. I posted it in some forums but folks say that's fine. They said it is coil whining. Yes actually it sounds like coil whining when I compare some videos but I'm not that convinced because I didn't hear that noise in others' Prius videos. Could you take a look? Maybe you might have an idea. Could it be due to some liquid leak? It's at 34k miles. It can clearly be heard after 0:38. ruclips.net/video/yL-lh2cZanE/видео.html Thanks.
To my ears via my phone all I hear is an alarm. Is that noise what you are referring to? And if the car runs fine, then I would be okay. If you have a friend with an OBD2 scanner run it. If no codes that is very reassuring.
@@nevadarobert7908 Do you mean the beeping sound when I shifted to D? No not that one if you mean as alarm. The door was open that was for it. The noise is more like some loose spinning metal plates touching each other. It is a very low high pitch noise in the background. It is like a buzz or whining while in stop but it is more apparent when breaking, especially in low speeds. Car runs just fine there's no problem or any warnings. Anyways I will check with dealership or maybe compare with another hybrid toyota.
Hello F, I also have an Auris Hybrid and mine doesn't produce a wining noise, so I think it's not normal
Did you have any check engine codes with your rough idle?
No codes at all. That is normal with the complaint of rough idle at startup. Do you?
@@nevadarobert7908 yes, I have p0300, p0301, p0302 codes, going to check if coils are bad, replace any if needed and if that doesn’t fix ge problem, I’m going to move to doing the pvc valve and clean her system.
@@LuisTorres-mf7wk best of luck. How many miles?
@@nevadarobert7908 was thr problem fixed on your car?
@@skyline2760yes
Did your check engine light ever come on?
Never came on. OBD2 scanner showed nothing either
Had a head gasket, blew motor then had to scrap
Totally sucks 😢
Great car crappy head gaskets
I have the same symptoms on 2015 Auris hybrid. It is because I use contact cleaner that contains oil/lubricant instead of airflow sensor cleaner. I ending up use pure isopropanol and it solve the problems. 2013-newer prius has much less issue with head gasket because toyota actually revised the head gasket in 2013. The 2014 has revised piston, the 2015 has revised piston rings. So far, no one with 2015 has oil consumption issue like 2010-2012
Good information. My 2015 uses no oil. Now I know why. Thanks
@@nevadarobert7908 yes, thats why 4th gen Prius has much less issue too. The 4th gen EGR is after the catalytic converter, it has less shoot and unburned fuel. Most likely has much less EGR clogging issue too after 150k miles unlike 3rd gen. Overal 3rd gen Prius has very less issue besides head gasket and clogged EGR outside normal maintenance. 2nd gen has less issue in engine but more problems on the transmission, either burned stator or bad needle bearings. But we talked about problems beyond 200k miles or abused taxi fleet prius.
Still, where the coolant is going? I have the same issue.
I was lucky in that I have no coolant loss.
Better question would be - where does the pressure in the coolant system go?
How many miles does the car had when this happened? Im at 112k and it does it when i dont drive it too often.
Mine had around 60,000 miles.
Hmmm my 2010 just started doing this. I hope it is something simple like this video, probably is, it IS a Toyota after all.
Also, I drive completely the opposite of you, I almost never hypermile, Lol. I do cruise control at every opportunity but I get to speed fast and cruise above the speed limit at all times.
Would you mind sharing where the red coolant reservoir testing device can be purchased? I'm having the same knocking issue
www.mobiledistributorsupply.com/toyota-lexus-and-scion-radiator-adapter-1?gclid=CjwKCAiAjeSABhAPEiwAqfxURXwun4-fPMtWStYYEelk3hEeMTID1QSDOPF0Ya7EsG-yzlqUy6GOYBoCF2IQAvD_BwE
Bosch Automotive Service Solutions
Inc., OTC
28635 Mound Road
Warren, MI 48092-3499
OEMTOOLS 27248R Toyota, Lexus &
Scion Radiator Adapter
1-800-578-7375
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Bosch Automotive Service Solutions
OEMTOOLS 27248R Toyota, Lexus &
Scion Radiator Adapter
Where did you get the coolant adapter
OEMTOOLS 27248R Toyota, Lexus &
Scion Radiator Adapter
800-578-7375
Mail
Bosch Automotive Service Solutions
Inc., OTC
28635 Mound Road
Warren, MI 48092-3499
Autuzone pro
toyota, Lexus and Scion SKU 133632 349927248R
•Fits Lexus LS (2007 - Up), Toyota Celica (2000 - Up), Spyder MR2 (2000 - Up)
Hope this helps!
I have the same car with the same problem but you are describing it wrong by saying rough idle or mis fire. It is a violent engine shaking that feels like the motor is about to destruct. I noticed after owning this car for 2 years that it happens after it sits for longer then a couple of days without starting it. I have 232k if anyone cares.
You describe it more accurately. I assumed it is a misfire. Really violent. Oddly, if I turn off the car immediately after the violent shaking the restart of the engine is normal
@@nevadarobert7908 but you are right by saying misfire because from what I understand the 2010 has a piston ring issue and allows oil to seep into the cylinder while the car is at rest. The oil builds up in the cylinder and when you start it it fouls the spark plug and then the car is only running on 3 cylinders while it’s violently shaking the piston that’s not firing is busy blowing oil out of the cylinder until the plug fires
@@EddieErion929 You are spot on!
@@nevadarobert7908 I would say change the plugs yourself and keep track of what cylinder the plug looks the most dirty and oily but changing the plugs on 3 gen Prius is a pain. The oily plug would cement the theory. What people are starting to do to combat this problem is to put a oil catch can inline to the pcv valve to prevent the oil from going into the motor and fouling the plugs. It’s the only real solution,Look into it!
@@EddieErion929 I like your plan. Once the cold weather arrives I can do it in my garage since it will be to cold to go outside. Thanks
How did you pressurize ?
I bought a cooling system pressure testing system from Amazon (forgot brand) and a Toyota Prius adapter . I tried renting a coolant pressure tester from O’Reilly auto parts but it had been so abused it would not hold pressure. Hope this helps you
Hi please let me know where did you purchase the pressure test adapter
COOLING SYSTEM/RESERVOIR
CAP PRESSURE TEST
ADAPTER KIT
Reference Part Number: 226
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Information
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DetailsKit Info
Kit Components
09231-
10110-01
RESERVOIR CAP PRESSURE TEST
ADAPTER
09231-
10120-01
COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST
ADAPTER
Bosch Automotive Service Solutions
Inc.
Attn: Returned Goods
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Owatonna, MN 55060
Talk to us 1-800-933-8335
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Thanks for the info
@@belmagaleano6395 Glad to help
Hate to harp on the elephant in the room, but you still haven't explained why the cooling system won't hold pressure. Unfortunately, the most likely explanation is that you still have a head gasket issue, although it may be small. If you let the car sit for an extended period (weeks or a month) you'd probably see the rough morning idle return or worse, hydro lock the engine (not advised). You should perform these additional tests: 1) pressure test again, but this time, remove the engine oil dipstick and listen for air escaping through the dipstick tube. If this is the case, you have a head gasket issue. 2) do a "sniff" test. You can purchase these at any auto parts store. It's basically a blue dye that will turn green if you have a head gasket leak. Good luck.
Great advice
2015 doesn't have head gasket issues... its 2010-2014 with a bad engine design.
Thank you. I was unsure if my year had a problem. Good to learn it is not an issue
@@nevadarobert7908 how do you know?
@@skyline2760I pressure tested the cooling system and I sent an oil sample to Blackstone. Also, no loss of coolant and no combustion gases found in coolant.
Good video ... 👍
My pleasure
No I didn’t touch the Egr
Welcome to the Prius EGR problem…..
Find a good mechanic who knows Toyotas. A Toyota dealer is always a good start for a diagnosis. I have a superb Toyota mechanic in Homer Glen, Illinois. TCCN Automotive Inc.
15751 Annico Dr. Unit 3
Homer Glen, IL 60491
Best of luck.
Bummer
What’s the mileage
The mileages was about 69 K miles
head gaskit going out those 3 gen are lacking qc control
over night coolank leaks into cycler and causes a misfire
I have heard the same
My prius gen 3 has this engine noise at start problem and probably other things as well. It finally shut off and I had to tow it to the dealership (Toyota auto nation Hayward CA). $180 later got an estimate of about $10k for a used engine & hybrid battery replacement.
I towed it back to my place 😰😰😭😭
Charged the hybrid myself (1 cell at a time).
Replaced: coil pack / spark plugs / 12V battery.
The Prius is back on the road and driving everyday since 2 weeks ago.
Still dealing with the intermittent engine noise when it starts. The noise from mine is not restricted to cold start, though.
I think my prius egr system seems to be acting up. Waiting for part to arrive.
I will definitely check my mass flow sensor, thanks to this video.
I'm saving the estimate papers from Toyota AutoNation Hayward California to pick up my dog's excrements with.
How many miles? I also service everything like coolant ( radiator and inverter) transmission fluid, brake fluid. Oil and filter every 5 k or 6 months.
Your work in getting your Prius running is outstanding
@@nevadarobert7908 220k.
I've been suspecting my inverter coolant pump is not working I don't see any movement in the inverter coolant reservoir.
Besides replacing the coolant & pump what other service is there for the inverter?
I've been thinking about looking up the inverter to check the solder joint if any and or boards and contacts in there.
@@AB-yu2tj You have done some amazing work!
Block Test it next time if you are so worried about it.
Mines doing it while it’s hot and while idle
How many miles?
Go deal. Keep us updated.
The Prius is starting and running fine.
Too long video man
Sorry about that
Damn have never seen some1 so extra & over cautious..will def be a prob with women or wife
😜
At least he can spell like a grown adult.
I’ve got 112k on mine & now on cold climate & noticed same exact thing-
I have read that Toyota modified the intake manifold in cold climates as moisture would freeze causing rough starts. Mine is the last year (2015) so intake manifold problem not a cause. I suspect multiple causes for same rough start. Before I fixed mine I would immediately turn off the car and restart it with no more rough idle. Best of luck.
fuel injector
Appreciate the feedback
That was super drawn out.
Little info too much talk😂😂😂😃😃😄😅😅
Little comment from someone with little brain 😅😅😮😮😂😂😢😢😊😊🎉🎉😊