To any diyer thinking about taking your engine apart for the first time. Follow this video and nothing else. I did and the assembly video and it went smooth. This video makes something very complex actually very simple. Thanks for the awesome video
To those who think the marks should all be at 12 O'clock- you are forgetting or ignoring the simple purpose of this procedure- it is for removing the chains without damaging the valves with no extra special tools or disassembly! It is brilliant! When you put the chains on, then the marks will line up in a more familiar configuration. You are still talking about lining up six axis across a 45 degree bisectional plane because it is a 'V' configuration engine with 2 camshafts and a crankshaft per head with a dozen valves on each head. No such angle exists to line up five shafts and all 24 cam lobes with all the valves closed during disassembly. If you cannot grasp the simplicity of what I am saying, do not work on any more engines.
The intial alingment of the timing marks move from the set position each revolution of the chain by about 2 links. I did not know that and disassembled the chains and tensioners after tuning the engine over and rechecking the timeing. The marks were not longer aligned. Why is that?
What you didn’t mention is that there are two key way slots in the reluctor wheel and it can go back on in two different positions. Need to mark the key way slot on the reluctor wheel that goes over the key way before taking it off.
Thanks for the video. I am Kurdish. Been living in America for 8 years now. I love your videos. I am also learning about engines and cars. Recently I got a 2004 Mazda tribute that has Ford’s duratech 3.0 v6 engine. I have recently changed serpentine belt, water pump and tensioner, Thermostat and I repaired couple exhaust leaks. I am having issues with screeching noise that is very loud when I go over 2000 rpm and car does not go over 30 miles. I am having 2 codes p0135, p2195, p2196 I am still not sure if I fixed the exhaust leaks correctly. Would appreciate any comments or recommendations.
I'm close to 300k, in a 07, 3.0 duratec engine. I was told to replace a timing chain at 300k to prevent a break in the chain. My engine has been babyed since I bought it at 138k. Rarely goes over 2500 rpm.
I'm doing the gaskets on the timing case cover I wanted to change the tensioner and the followers can I do this without losing the clock positions nothing is under load to cause it to lose time is there?
I followed these instructions on how to time my 07 3.0 fusion I put the chains back to how they were removed (the right side while looking straight on at the engine) so the right side in front. Got it back to together and won't start. I suspect I timed them 180 out. All the service manuals show it done this way but since my chains were installed backwards I put it back the same way. I'll he following these instructions and swapping the chains to the correct placement. I hope this makes sense.
hello i need help I opened the v6 engine and I didn't mark anything, I took out the chain and now I don't know the position of the crankshaft and camshaft, can you give me some advice on how to solve it, thank you. This is a 2011 Porsche Panamera 3.6 v6
And those “clock” positions for the camshafts are in relation to the top of the cylinder head, where as the “clock” positions for the crank is in relation to the centerline of the block?
In a relation perpendicular to the surface (flat) position of the block and each of the heads. The perpendicular line would mark the 12 o'clock for each.
So the real question is.. can the cover be removed when engine is in the car? On my 06 3.0 fusion.. room is EXTREMELY tight.. getting ready to do a cover reseal and valve gaskets.. I am not looking forward to this. Any tips out there people? Has anyone done one out there with Engine in car?
@@simonmoffat4629 I'm about to do a set of head gaskets on an '07 Fusion. Any suggestions or advice to avoid any "Oh no..." moments? ~Rust Belt Warrior
Except my wifes 2011 Ford Escape V6 didnt have the 3 bolt holes on the crankshaft pulley, and she bought it new, so now ask me the crazy scientist stuff I had to do to get that off...
because you will have valve to piston contact when you remove the chains the spring pressure will cause the cams to move and jam a valve into a piston the procedure I demo here is directly from Fords service manual the Factory does not lay out these procedures for no reason this kind of stuff is important with OHC engines
To any diyer thinking about taking your engine apart for the first time. Follow this video and nothing else. I did and the assembly video and it went smooth. This video makes something very complex actually very simple. Thanks for the awesome video
To those who think the marks should all be at 12 O'clock- you are forgetting or ignoring the simple purpose of this procedure- it is for removing the chains without damaging the valves with no extra special tools or disassembly! It is brilliant! When you put the chains on, then the marks will line up in a more familiar configuration. You are still talking about lining up six axis across a 45 degree bisectional plane because it is a 'V' configuration engine with 2 camshafts and a crankshaft per head with a dozen valves on each head. No such angle exists to line up five shafts and all 24 cam lobes with all the valves closed during disassembly. If you cannot grasp the simplicity of what I am saying, do not work on any more engines.
Exactly!
Wow. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Excellent job on this instruction.
Thank you for your time and energy.
that bolt holder pad is genius !
The intial alingment of the timing marks move from the set position each revolution of the chain by about 2 links. I did not know that and disassembled the chains and tensioners after tuning the engine over and rechecking the timeing. The marks were not longer aligned. Why is that?
would be nice to know where he got the crank shaft socket
About to do this job. Really informative video. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
What you didn’t mention is that there are two key way slots in the reluctor wheel and it can go back on in two different positions. Need to mark the key way slot on the reluctor wheel that goes over the key way before taking it off.
Thanks for the video. I am Kurdish. Been living in America for 8 years now. I love your videos. I am also learning about engines and cars. Recently I got a 2004 Mazda tribute that has Ford’s duratech 3.0 v6 engine. I have recently changed serpentine belt, water pump and tensioner, Thermostat and I repaired couple exhaust leaks. I am having issues with screeching noise that is very loud when I go over 2000 rpm and car does not go over 30 miles. I am having 2 codes p0135, p2195, p2196 I am still not sure if I fixed the exhaust leaks correctly. Would appreciate any comments or recommendations.
DID YOU FIND THE PROBLEM?
I'm close to 300k, in a 07, 3.0 duratec engine. I was told to replace a timing chain at 300k to prevent a break in the chain. My engine has been babyed since I bought it at 138k. Rarely goes over 2500 rpm.
brilliant video, a million thanks
Glad it helped
where can i get a copy of the manual and the front timing chain cover pad, please let me know think you
Ford
Where can I get the engine disassembly book?
My 2011 doesnt have threaded holes in the harmonic balancer I had to buy a special puller that has little feet to get behind the inner web.
watch my how to get more power out of your small block chevy video
So if this was my dirty old engine would I just be taking this stuff apart and cleaning it/ replacing what I’d worn out ?
Dónde está el sensor del árbol de elevas
Great video
Please! Can you send me the document about this engine in video.
Hello,
Very interesting video
I have to rebuild an st200/svt duratec.
Do you know how to reset the chain tensioner?
Thanks from France
Yes it's in the video
I want to see the camshaft cap numbers
Quiero saber donde esta para cambiarlo pero no lo encuentro
I'm doing the gaskets on the timing case cover I wanted to change the tensioner and the followers can I do this without losing the clock positions nothing is under load to cause it to lose time is there?
you shouldn't need to change them the chains and tensioners should last the life of the engine according to Ford
That's not what I asked! According to Ford trans fluid is lifetime to don't believe it.
How do I get that manual?
Great video. Thank you
What if the driver side timing chain is the on in the front
That's how mine was setup and I can't find an answer as to why.
I followed these instructions on how to time my 07 3.0 fusion I put the chains back to how they were removed (the right side while looking straight on at the engine) so the right side in front. Got it back to together and won't start. I suspect I timed them 180 out. All the service manuals show it done this way but since my chains were installed backwards I put it back the same way. I'll he following these instructions and swapping the chains to the correct placement. I hope this makes sense.
hello i need help
I opened the v6 engine and I didn't mark anything, I took out the chain and now I don't know the position of the crankshaft and camshaft, can you give me some advice on how to solve it, thank you.
This is a 2011 Porsche Panamera 3.6 v6
you need a service manual
Great video Love the technical
What size crankshaft socket are you using
Why shouldn’t I rotate the crank counter clockwise
it is hard on the tensioners
this is the 2023 ranger raptor 3.0 petrol engine? Thanks for the reply
Mi carro es un Ford Fusion 3.0. 6 cilindros, 2008. Cuál es la posición correcta de las cadenas del tiempo?,
Wow ... what a great video!
Thank you!
How could I get a copy of the book you are using in this video?
its from Ford
Do the valve covers need to be completely off?
no
And those “clock” positions for the camshafts are in relation to the top of the cylinder head, where as the “clock” positions for the crank is in relation to the centerline of the block?
In a relation perpendicular to the surface (flat) position of the block and each of the heads. The perpendicular line would mark the 12 o'clock for each.
Where can i Get This Book ?
Ford
Nececito esa sincronización
This is pretty awesome, thank you. I'll be watching more of your videos. 🚗
I laughed way too hard at R2D2! In my 2009 Escape XLT 3.0 the timing cover is plastic. My fan chewed through mine. Can I just replace the cover?
WHICH FAN?
At 3:25 I think those are M8-1.25
So the real question is.. can the cover be removed when engine is in the car? On my 06 3.0 fusion.. room is EXTREMELY tight.. getting ready to do a cover reseal and valve gaskets.. I am not looking forward to this. Any tips out there people? Has anyone done one out there with Engine in car?
Did you ever figure it out? What all did you have to take off to get it off?
I have done this job 3 times with the engine in the car.
It is obviously a tight job , but it can be done 👍
@@simonmoffat4629 I'm about to do a set of head gaskets on an '07 Fusion. Any suggestions or advice to avoid any "Oh no..." moments? ~Rust Belt Warrior
@@Ignivomous How did it go? Did you have to resurface the heads?
Dude that is awesome for the bolts. Best way Ive saw yet. Should you replace the cam bolts?
New shop?
Jesus Ford. Lets do things thr hardest way
Except my wifes 2011 Ford Escape V6 didnt have the 3 bolt holes on the crankshaft pulley, and she bought it new, so now ask me the crazy scientist stuff I had to do to get that off...
The '9-'12 don't have the threaded puller holes but they look set up for a standard 3 jaw puller.
Good vid
I'm going to do this also
Super
So how do you know 100% that’s it’s an interference motor how do you know everywhere I look it’s mixed answers
Take the timing chains off and spin the engine until it hits the valves. And after it touches, get a breaker bar and turn the engine over 360 degrees.
Fare good 👍
❤
Why not put the engine at TDC and lock it all , then remove everything and replace 😀
because you will have valve to piston contact when you remove the chains the spring pressure will cause the cams to move and jam a valve into a piston the procedure I demo here is directly from Fords service manual the Factory does not lay out these procedures for no reason this kind of stuff is important with OHC engines
Cams cover
Is this the same 3.0 used in the Ford GT?
Excellent job on this instruction.