best way to break in a sled is to drain your coolant, run no oil and take the belt off so you can go WFO!! the heat lets everything melt into a perfect seal lol
good video blipping the throttle like that gives everything a little more fuel and oil on our drag motors we do 10 heat cycles starting at running them for a minute and adding a minute each cycle and the first start up I spray fogging oil into carbs to help flush assembly lube and grease out of seals and my motor spins at 10600 for 6 seconds
I would never do a bunch of heat cycles at idle. You need to break in rings in those first few runs. That only happens when you load them. I would bring it to temperature then run it easy under light load. Shut it off let cool . Bring it to temp and run it a bit harder. Maybe half load then cool it. Then 3/4 load. Then full load. I'm betting the pistons are cast and not forged.
@@cameronbarron you know nothing about engines. Go ahead and rebuild any engine and be easy on it while seating the rings and its gona be a gutless pos its whole life
@@griffinpierce7691 @griffin pierce do you even understand what rings do. And why they have to be heat cycled. You don't break the rings in , you break the cylinder walls in to except the new rings. Fuck outta here
@@griffinpierce7691 the idea is to create seal. Heavy throttle will leave you with bald spots and leave you "gutless" like you said...or even worse than bald spot , burns down your shitty rebuild
The best way to break in a belt is to vary speed with as little throttle as you can. after a couple dozen km of that the whole width of the belt will have conformed to the clutch shape. The worse way to break in a belt is to vary throttle abruptly.
I think that was a little excessive with the throttle lmao. Thought you were joking at first. You can hold it in one spot for a few seconds. A minute or so wouldn’t be a good idea though
All my rebuilds get 20,000+ kms on em before any engine is ever opened back up. I have my own way of breaking in a fresh dirtbike/sled/atv,etc. Im not even gonna bother posting it here, ill get praised or ragged on. Lol. I just did an 87 skidoo 503 up, new crank, rods, all bearings, jugs 0.50over, new prox pistons/rings, seal and bearings throughout the motor. Ill be doing compression on first pull(should be 150lbs), then itll prob go to 155-160psi..
Hey Chris- used to subscribe to your BurandtTV before that ended. You had some great videos on setting up suspension and other tech tips. Any chance those might come to this channel? If not, any other way to view some of those? Thanks!
That is NOT how you break in a Sled. Yes you vary throttle but you don’t have to go that crazy with it. Just don’t hold it at the same speed for more than a minute at a time and you will be fine.
I go up and down the drag strip a few times then let her cool off.. You can hold it wise open for liike 1600ff then burp it to give her some oil.. IV broken in many a sled this way and haven't had a problem.. Yet lol
The reason the manual says to do things a certain way is because there could be water, air or dirt and such in the coolant system, fuel system and oil system. You don't want to be going wide open throttle (or jerky throttle like this) if your water pump starts to suck air, or air remains in the head (it often won't show on water temp).
best way to break in a sled is to drain your coolant, run no oil and take the belt off so you can go WFO!! the heat lets everything melt into a perfect seal lol
good video blipping the throttle like that gives everything a little more fuel and oil on our drag motors we do 10 heat cycles starting at running them for a minute and adding a minute each cycle and the first start up I spray fogging oil into carbs to help flush assembly lube and grease out of seals and my motor spins at 10600 for 6 seconds
Ride it like ya stole it
I would never do a bunch of heat cycles at idle. You need to break in rings in those first few runs. That only happens when you load them. I would bring it to temperature then run it easy under light load. Shut it off let cool . Bring it to temp and run it a bit harder. Maybe half load then cool it. Then 3/4 load. Then full load. I'm betting the pistons are cast and not forged.
I'll listen to the face of Polaris thank you haha. Must work with the shit he puts those sleds through
@@cameronbarron you know nothing about engines. Go ahead and rebuild any engine and be easy on it while seating the rings and its gona be a gutless pos its whole life
@@griffinpierce7691 @griffin pierce do you even understand what rings do. And why they have to be heat cycled. You don't break the rings in , you break the cylinder walls in to except the new rings. Fuck outta here
@@griffinpierce7691 ever wonder how and why eventually you need to re plate.evwn with out ever blowing up... This is why
@@griffinpierce7691 the idea is to create seal. Heavy throttle will leave you with bald spots and leave you "gutless" like you said...or even worse than bald spot , burns down your shitty rebuild
Hold it wide open has warranty for a reason
Just told my buddy that I have brand new 2023 patriot 850 turbo I bought today
The best way to break in a belt is to vary speed with as little throttle as you can. after a couple dozen km of that the whole width of the belt will have conformed to the clutch shape. The worse way to break in a belt is to vary throttle abruptly.
Everyone bashing on burandts methods lol I'll listen to the face of Polaris thank you. Havee yoou seen the hell he puts these through 😅
How many miles do you guys break in like this?
Around 50
Roughly how long are you idling before it gets up to temp on the heat cycles? Would you recommend the same process for the 650 patriot?
I think that was a little excessive with the throttle lmao. Thought you were joking at first. You can hold it in one spot for a few seconds. A minute or so wouldn’t be a good idea though
All my rebuilds get 20,000+ kms on em before any engine is ever opened back up. I have my own way of breaking in a fresh dirtbike/sled/atv,etc. Im not even gonna bother posting it here, ill get praised or ragged on. Lol. I just did an 87 skidoo 503 up, new crank, rods, all bearings, jugs 0.50over, new prox pistons/rings, seal and bearings throughout the motor. Ill be doing compression on first pull(should be 150lbs), then itll prob go to 155-160psi..
Hey Chris- used to subscribe to your BurandtTV before that ended. You had some great videos on setting up suspension and other tech tips. Any chance those might come to this channel? If not, any other way to view some of those? Thanks!
We'll have all of those videos on this channel eventually! Thanks for subscribing!
Thanks Chris! All great stuff, keep it coming!
Ok my 16 pro limits till after 18hrs of use
what coolers do you run?
What is the max rpm you can go like this before damaging something
9,000
That is NOT how you break in a Sled. Yes you vary throttle but you don’t have to go that crazy with it. Just don’t hold it at the same speed for more than a minute at a time and you will be fine.
How how long do you ride them like this? Miles?
Wyatt Staker Okay thank you! Just bought a 17 axys want to make sure I’m doing it right!!
Not like this lol
Idle time and no engine load is a perfect way to seat the rings.........
I go up and down the drag strip a few times then let her cool off.. You can hold it wise open for liike 1600ff then burp it to give her some oil.. IV broken in many a sled this way and haven't had a problem.. Yet lol
The reason the manual says to do things a certain way is because there could be water, air or dirt and such in the coolant system, fuel system and oil system. You don't want to be going wide open throttle (or jerky throttle like this) if your water pump starts to suck air, or air remains in the head (it often won't show on water temp).
You put oil in with your gas ???? Why
yeahhhhhhh........... no.
first