Understanding Different Types of Screws
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
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Fasteners are like any other tool; you need to pick the right one for the job you’re doing. There are many different types of screws, and it definitely pays to match the fastener you’re using to the project you’re building. This video provides a great overview of different fasteners in the market place, their advantages and disadvantages, and how to ensure you’re choosing the right fastener for the job.
CHARACTERISTICS OF FASTENERS
First off, you need to understand the head types available to you. Flat head, pan head….they have different applications. What about the nibs that are found below the head? How do they factor in? What advantages do they have? We’ll fill you in on that info in this video.
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Some screws are fully threaded, tip to head, others aren’t. What’s the deal with that? What’s the best screw for installing cabinets? How about screws that are specifically for melamine? Did you even know there is such a thing? There is, and there are lots of benefits to using melamine-specific screws. This video will teach you about these fasteners, and many of the other different types of screws.
MORE ON WOODWORKING
This video concentrates on fasteners, but Woodworkers Guild of America has a ton of other information for you. Be sure to have a look at our library full of woodshop tips: www.wwgoa.com/.... There’s sure to be info there that’ll help you with your next project.
MORE INFO ON FASTENERS AND QUICKSCREWS
Looking for more information on the fasteners used in this video? Visit the Quickscrews website (www.quickscrews..., or give them a call at (800) 763-6916.
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Excellent info on fasteners.
For videos showing fine details like this one, it would be nice to see it in 1080p resolution.
Thanks, this is a great video for my high school students. I will be referring to your channel often and with pleasure.
Nice video shows methods to improve your business.
Some good tips. Regarding the scenario of 2 pieces not screwing together tight, I always try to make sure that either the threadless shank is at least as long as the depth of the top piece, or I predrill a little oversize so there's no possibility the thread can bite into the top piece that you are joining. That way the screw can pull the two pieces together.
Tim Elley
Yep, 3/16" pre drill.
@@ThekiBoran it depends on the screw size
@@theralhaljordan7337
For commercial work we use almost exclusively #8 flathead wood screws. 3/16" bit and when necessary predrill with a countersink is perfect.
I've done a boat load of commercial, eurostyle, flush overlay cabinets with white melamine interiors. We usually use the #8 flatheads to join the cabinets together and to screw to the wall. I was taught early on to countersink a 3/16" hole and drive the screws so they're flush, not buried. Well, not everyone does that. A guy I was working with always buried his screws. The boss/owner had to temporarily remove one of his cabinets. When he unscrewed one of the buried screws a huge 2" chunk around the screw head blew out. The boss/owner was pissed. Besides blowout, and if removal is necessary, making those flatheads flush means there's more surface area for those fast caps to stick to. I've seen a lot of bonehead carpentry over the years.
The same guy who buries his flathead screws was joining the seam of a plastic laminate countertop. The corner had a miter/seam and it was joined with biscuits and draw bolts, typical. Instead of using a block of wood and hammer to pound the seam to get it flush he used a small rubber/plastic mallet only. His little mallet went through the cutouts for the draw bolts and cracked the laminate. The boss blew a fuse. He wanted to kill him. It was a big long L-shaped top too.
Nice summary, your screws will go in better with an impact driver instead of that drill though
Good tips thanks
the un-threaded part only helps to tighten the pieces together if the top piece has a thickness equal to or less than the length of the un-threaded part. Otherwise you have to drill a clearance hole. On the small screws and even on longer screws, I almost always use a clearance hole (if I need the pieces to be pulled together) so those don't really help me out that much, and I like all-threads so I can have as many threads as I want when I need them
This was a good video for info on some of the screws im not familiar with. Seeing I just won the Quickscrew assortment you just gave away.
thank you
Could you add links to the kits you show in the video? Great info!
These links are necessary
Rolando Riggio Sorry...I was asking for links to the different screws he was talking about.
Great information. Thank you. See, our pocket head screws the same as cabinet screws? Is the difference just size?
Hello Alan,
Pocket head screws are different from regular wood screws in that they are self tapping and have a flat base to the head. The special threads allow them to be driven into hardwoods without pre-drilling, and flat base allows them to be seated firmly in the pocket without splitting the wood.
Hope this helps,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
WoodWorkers Guild Of America Thanks. But I have seen pan head screws. Are they the same as pocket screws? Ultimately, for pocket holes, what screws do you recommend? I can only find Kreg pocket hole screws at our Home Depot and they are so expensive! There has got to be an alternative type or brand. What screws other than Kreg brand pocket screws can I use for a pocket hole? What are they called? Pan head? What brand and size? The screw aisles are overwhelming. I have seen Milescraft brand pocket screws on Amazon but they are not carried locally. Thank you!
What about finnish screws? And is a pan head prefered compared to a flat head when drilling metal brackets into studs?
Hello. Finish screws are handy to use for projects that required hidden fasteners with good holding power. You can use either a pan head or flat head screw for attaching a metal bracket to a stud. Depends on the look that you want and whether your holes are tapered. Thanks-Paul Woodworkers Guild of America
WoodWorkers Guild Of America thanks !! Tons of help, earned a sub!
What type of screws do you recommend for MDF?
I'd suggest using a pilot hole and a non-tapered sheet metal screw for MDF. It is highly prone to splitting, but sizing your pilot hole to about 85% of the size of your fastener, and not using tapered screws, helps a lot.
ToolMetrix Thanks!!!!
Would sheet rock screws be OK to use to temporarily attach a stool sample?
Hello,
emporarily, perhaps, but not as a long term solution. Drywall screws
are week in sheer strength, and would be a poor choice for chair
joinery.
Hope this helps,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
@@Wwgoa
Sorry, I was joking. George was too when he made this video.
ruclips.net/video/0m0O4rNxvgc/видео.html
Great tips. I must admit, I'm a dry wall screw type. :(
What happened to the mustache?
D Day That's what it is! I couldn't put my finger on it...
great info but the camera need to be close up
Had to rewind... I thought “holy buckets” was a slip up lol
Didn’t get it
6 minutes of my life gone
Same as every other 6 minutes of your life 🙄
Drywall Screws for woodworking ? What kind of knucklehead would use drywall screws (they break, they don't go into wood all that easily) I've been doing carpentry/woodworking/sorta for 55 years and until now i have never heard of anyone using drywall screws for anything other than drywall
Brent Miller
I've seen guys attach plywood substrate to walls and base cabinets.
I work in bath and kitchen demo, most of the carpentry work has drywall screws, they do break easy