Regards the 2 tail end servo`s . you could of fitted 1 high and 1 low and flip the servo horn to suit best possition for linkage. saves having the servo poking out the fuse.
Hello Dan great tutorial videos thanks; I really appreciate your taking the time to make, edit and produce these videos. I'm new to modeling and I will be attempting to build RYAN'S REBEL RC plane this will be my first airplane. How do I print the plans?
Jorge I downloaded the files from a website named Aerofred. I think you have to register which is free but you can search and find a set of Rebel plans and the magazine article. I took the pdf files to Staples and had their copy department print them on their large scale printer. The pdf is set to scale so it will print out full size ready to build on.
Hi Dan, I admire your enthusiasm and passion for building. What I wonder is why you are doing the same stuff over and expecting a different result - that's a sure sign of madness (gas engine too big for plane, pig to fly etc.). As you have invited constructive input, can I advise that you reinforce that front compartment with fibreglass and resin lining. It is an old trick that also fuel proofs that tank bay as well as adds the strength you are looking for. You are on a learning curve that doesn't need to end in broken planes and heartbreak. You just need to find plans of better thought out designs and learn some new tricks. If or when you build another fuselage, join it with the formers at the parallel part by the wing BEFORE you pull the tail end in.
Hello. Yes I read your comment yesterday regarding the engine size, and yes I have decided that I am going to make a change from the US 41 to a DLE 30 which will be about a pound an a half lighter. I have had some run issues with the 41, and after flying my friend's Rebel last week with a Homelite 30 on it... It is the perfect amount of thrust etc. This plane was designed with a Ryobi 31 in raw form, and the designer actually reccomended the DLE to me as a perfect engine for it. It has good power to it and will be lighter despite needing a battery for the ignition. I know you suggested a glow engine... I am done with glow fuel, it has become far too expensive, harder to find as there are no hobby shops near me and haz mat shipping fees make it even more expensive, it is messy, and for giant scale airplanes... Gas engines have improved drastically from the gutless Mahoney 120 days. As for lining the tank bay with fiberglass.... No. I have never found this to add substantial strength to the bay. It will however add substantial weight and that's not what I want. I will use a spray in gasolene proof coating to protect the wood from a tank leak, but no epoxy or glass. If I wanted to add further strength to the compartment with glass, it would be by wrapping the outside of the compartment. However in this case, I think that is over kill. Most of what I am basing this on is the Rebel that my flying buddy built 10 years ago and has many, many sorties on it. Its a solid design as it is from the plans. And it flies really well.
Hi Dan, thanks for the quick reply. Yeah I'm with you in the glow thing, I have thinned my collection down to seven faves and flying mostly electric now. I wish I could find the time to get a channel up and running to demonstrate the fibreglassing technique that would add less than two ounces to the nose and stop that bulkhead ripping out. It is good that you have downsized your engine choice but don't give up on the 41 yet! Have a look at outerzone.co.uk and type in BIG STIK for a 101 inch wingspan version of the original ugly stik. It is a great site for free plan downloads and you can learn loads from the articles.
@@biomechanique6874 I'll check it out. Always like sources for plans. And by all means, start a channel. We need more videos about building and technique. The cool thing is there are many ways to get things done, many options. Now we have RUclips to share what we have learned so builders starting up wont have to learn the hard way. Everyone can be a scratch builder now!!!!
I will try to make time this winter to show an easy cheaper way to build a strong and extremely lightweight fuselage using foam and fibreglass with various woods and ply in all the right places. I have built many balsa models over the years and find it easier and quicker to just trace a plan, hotwire cut the blanks fit the wood sand it and skin it with glass cloth. I will be happy to do strength and weight comparisons. Channel coming soon, hopefully.
Hey Dan, here's a thought - why don't you put the DLE on the Ultra Stick and take some of that lead out the tail. Also go an inch smaller on the prop with a greater pitch, like if you are on 17x6 go 16x8 or even 16x10, that will bring it alive. Step back from the Ryan's Rebel - it has a great wing design but the fuselage is a really poor design.
Actually yes. Most of my planes have had the servos inside the fuselage and wing. And not on the outside skin. My passion is scale planes and hiding servos is a must and a lot of work to place them where they are hidden yet maintainable just in case the servo fails . The Rebel is a sport model so Im not as worried about the scale look of it and actually enjoying the ease of installing the gear. Kind of a nice break. But there are several scale planes coming up that will have everything inside and it will be back to pushroads and pull/pull cables.
Hey Drew, I would like to do that. But I would have to wreck one first huh? Honestly it happens more often than not. Most of the time a fender bender. Next one, I will video... Unless its a return to saw dust wreck in which case I will shoot the debris field for you. :)
Hi Dan, when you build balsa planes do you use any sort of compound to fill in little holes in the wood. Or sometimes I have to add back wood because I've sanded too much away. I've used something called plastic wood filler which you can sand when it dries. But wondering if there is something better. I thought about using drywall spackle but not sure. Do you use anything to fix imperfections? thanks
Hi Gene!!! When it comes to filling, it kind of depends on what you need to fix. Back wood is probably an area that needs to be durable and you can resand it to shape. A low spot in a sheeted surface can be filled with drywall spackle. I use that DAP stuff that is pink until it dries. There is an even lighter weigh spackle, but I find it doesnt always stick well to the wood. Be careful with plastic like fillers. If they are harder than the wood you are placing them on and the sanding it takes to get the putty to wood feathering is difficult and pretty soon you are adding more putty to fill in the new oversanded wood. Green Akril body putty is like this. Bondo has a red one part putty the sands fairly well... But the viscosity is kind of runny. Maybe mix in some sawdust or micro balloons to thicken it. If the gaps are in glue joints that didn't butt up 100%, I use medium or thick CA, and hit it with accelerator to form an instant fill. Remember fillings biggest take is that you are adding weight. So try and make those layers thin.
Aoi, I would suspect that you could use a low profile in that spot. There are probably some smaller digital servos that would provide enough torque as well. I think the designer was trying to keep the cost down by using standard sized servos. In my case I am transferring the parts over from the heavy plane.
Before fixing that last fuel box cover I would paint every surface inside with thinned epoxy to protect the wood in that area from fuel spills.
Thanks for posting these Dan! There’s a lot of really valuable information and tips in your videos 😄 it’s helping to keep the hobby alive
Another great video Dan!
As a novice to the hobby these tips are invaluable.
Thank you for posting all this great info.
Keep em coming!
Haha
We build plains right! Yay!
Glad to see you are back Dan. Enjoying the posts. Thanks.
Regards the 2 tail end servo`s . you could of fitted 1 high and 1 low and flip the servo horn to suit best possition for linkage. saves having the servo poking out the fuse.
Love the video Dan it’s looking good thanks George in England Uk 👍
Thanks! Can’t wait to keep watching next episodes
Good job you are going to have to catch up buddy that is funny I think I was sub #5 a couple of months ago growing fast 💨
Very nice bro. Thank you so much.
I would paint every surface inside with thinned epoxy and put class cloth down it will Reinforce real nice
Good stuff!
I am building the Ryan’s rebel
Thats great Dan!!! Its a very enjoyable build.
Hello Dan great tutorial videos thanks; I really appreciate your taking the time to make, edit and produce these videos. I'm new to modeling and I will be attempting to build RYAN'S REBEL RC plane this will be my first airplane. How do I print the plans?
Jorge I downloaded the files from a website named Aerofred. I think you have to register which is free but you can search and find a set of Rebel plans and the magazine article. I took the pdf files to Staples and had their copy department print them on their large scale printer. The pdf is set to scale so it will print out full size ready to build on.
@@Capgains7777 Excellent; Thanks! I’ve already downloaded the plan but wasn’t sure where or how to print it. Staples is a mile away from my house.
Hi Dan, I admire your enthusiasm and passion for building. What I wonder is why you are doing the same stuff over and expecting a different result - that's a sure sign of madness (gas engine too big for plane, pig to fly etc.).
As you have invited constructive input, can I advise that you reinforce that front compartment with fibreglass and resin lining. It is an old trick that also fuel proofs that tank bay as well as adds the strength you are looking for.
You are on a learning curve that doesn't need to end in broken planes and heartbreak. You just need to find plans of better thought out designs and learn some new tricks. If or when you build another fuselage, join it with the formers at the parallel part by the wing BEFORE you pull the tail end in.
Hello. Yes I read your comment yesterday regarding the engine size, and yes I have decided that I am going to make a change from the US 41 to a DLE 30 which will be about a pound an a half lighter. I have had some run issues with the 41, and after flying my friend's Rebel last week with a Homelite 30 on it... It is the perfect amount of thrust etc. This plane was designed with a Ryobi 31 in raw form, and the designer actually reccomended the DLE to me as a perfect engine for it. It has good power to it and will be lighter despite needing a battery for the ignition.
I know you suggested a glow engine... I am done with glow fuel, it has become far too expensive, harder to find as there are no hobby shops near me and haz mat shipping fees make it even more expensive, it is messy, and for giant scale airplanes... Gas engines have improved drastically from the gutless Mahoney 120 days.
As for lining the tank bay with fiberglass.... No. I have never found this to add substantial strength to the bay. It will however add substantial weight and that's not what I want. I will use a spray in gasolene proof coating to protect the wood from a tank leak, but no epoxy or glass. If I wanted to add further strength to the compartment with glass, it would be by wrapping the outside of the compartment. However in this case, I think that is over kill. Most of what I am basing this on is the Rebel that my flying buddy built 10 years ago and has many, many sorties on it. Its a solid design as it is from the plans. And it flies really well.
Hi Dan, thanks for the quick reply.
Yeah I'm with you in the glow thing, I have thinned my collection down to seven faves and flying mostly electric now. I wish I could find the time to get a channel up and running to demonstrate the fibreglassing technique that would add less than two ounces to the nose and stop that bulkhead ripping out.
It is good that you have downsized your engine choice but don't give up on the 41 yet! Have a look at outerzone.co.uk and type in BIG STIK for a 101 inch wingspan version of the original ugly stik.
It is a great site for free plan downloads and you can learn loads from the articles.
@@biomechanique6874 I'll check it out. Always like sources for plans. And by all means, start a channel. We need more videos about building and technique. The cool thing is there are many ways to get things done, many options. Now we have RUclips to share what we have learned so builders starting up wont have to learn the hard way. Everyone can be a scratch builder now!!!!
I will try to make time this winter to show an easy cheaper way to build a strong and extremely lightweight fuselage using foam and fibreglass with various woods and ply in all the right places. I have built many balsa models over the years and find it easier and quicker to just trace a plan, hotwire cut the blanks fit the wood sand it and skin it with glass cloth. I will be happy to do strength and weight comparisons. Channel coming soon, hopefully.
Hey Dan, here's a thought - why don't you put the DLE on the Ultra Stick and take some of that lead out the tail. Also go an inch smaller on the prop with a greater pitch, like if you are on 17x6 go 16x8 or even 16x10, that will bring it alive.
Step back from the Ryan's Rebel - it has a great wing design but the fuselage is a really poor design.
Good instructions for building RC planes, but my question is where we can find the plans of these models ? ;-)
Best regards
Where's that nosy cat? Just like mine.....
Hallo are still building the plane
Greetings salvatore from belgium
Have you ever put all the servero inside the body of the airplane. I personally don't like the stuff on the outside of the airplane. Thanks.
Actually yes. Most of my planes have had the servos inside the fuselage and wing. And not on the outside skin. My passion is scale planes and hiding servos is a must and a lot of work to place them where they are hidden yet maintainable just in case the servo fails . The Rebel is a sport model so Im not as worried about the scale look of it and actually enjoying the ease of installing the gear. Kind of a nice break. But there are several scale planes coming up that will have everything inside and it will be back to pushroads and pull/pull cables.
Hey there, would you be interested in putting up a rebuild / repair video one day to show us some good techniques and how you go about it? Thanks
Hey Drew, I would like to do that. But I would have to wreck one first huh? Honestly it happens more often than not. Most of the time a fender bender. Next one, I will video... Unless its a return to saw dust wreck in which case I will shoot the debris field for you. :)
Hallo when have you made the flight thank you greetings
Hi Dan, when you build balsa planes do you use any sort of compound to fill in little holes in the wood. Or sometimes I have to add back wood because I've sanded too much away. I've used something called plastic wood filler which you can sand when it dries. But wondering if there is something better. I thought about using drywall spackle but not sure. Do you use anything to fix imperfections? thanks
Hi Gene!!! When it comes to filling, it kind of depends on what you need to fix. Back wood is probably an area that needs to be durable and you can resand it to shape. A low spot in a sheeted surface can be filled with drywall spackle. I use that DAP stuff that is pink until it dries. There is an even lighter weigh spackle, but I find it doesnt always stick well to the wood. Be careful with plastic like fillers. If they are harder than the wood you are placing them on and the sanding it takes to get the putty to wood feathering is difficult and pretty soon you are adding more putty to fill in the new oversanded wood. Green Akril body putty is like this. Bondo has a red one part putty the sands fairly well... But the viscosity is kind of runny. Maybe mix in some sawdust or micro balloons to thicken it. If the gaps are in glue joints that didn't butt up 100%, I use medium or thick CA, and hit it with accelerator to form an instant fill. Remember fillings biggest take is that you are adding weight. So try and make those layers thin.
With the elevator servos, would a low profile servo be adequate for that location?
Aoi, I would suspect that you could use a low profile in that spot. There are probably some smaller digital servos that would provide enough torque as well. I think the designer was trying to keep the cost down by using standard sized servos. In my case I am transferring the parts over from the heavy plane.
How do you plan to have curvature to the fuselage of the plane?
The design of the Stick style is pretty much a box. So there is no roundness to it so to speak. Simple and easy to build and fly.
´hallo when is the next building video coming greetings sal
Salvatore, working on a few right now, soon.