I am an idiot.... Although, I am fully aware of the several sizes of primers, make, model, purpose, (pistol, rifle, large and small, magnum)... I am an idiot.. for the past few months, I have only been dividing my primers up in two category's, "small & large" and any magnum's, just simply added to the "small or large" container... It never even crossed my mind to purposefully isolate them as I was poking them out of the brass, that would dictate what they are, based on the gauge and or hardness of the brass alloy of the cups... I bet there is 5000 small and maybe 1500 large.... I am wondering if when I am peening the cups out flat, to remove the firing pin indentation, if that will let me declare the hardness of the alloys of the cups? I have a bullet seater with a pressure gauge. I would need to machine a small and large anvil punch to adapt on to the press, that would then allow me to see the amount of pressure required to flatten out the firing pin strike dent?. Well, I now know to start now. Thank you for the heads up. As simple and or as elementary as this notional thinking is, I failed to see this would have really made things allot easier for the reloading process. I suppose, the one saving grace of my failure is, all of the toys I have, their designs all have strong and fast firing pins systems, well, except for the silly KEL-TEC-p32. I have no clue if that would have enough firing pin spring tension to push on through a rifle primer cup's alloy? I really do not know. I may have to try that for giggles sake now. Thank you for not fearing the idea that a video like this, might insult somebody's intelligence, upon how logical sorting the primers up front, upon removal, will help out ALLOT for the reloading aspect... As clearly, this very logical thinking, I clearly failed to see how much this actually would have save me time... Thank you.. I wonder if I can measure the gauge of the material on the lip of the primer cup? if that would, maybe, help divide up, at least the pistol cups from the rifle cups? Of course, when the primers are brand new, never installed, MAYBE? but having been installed, then fired once, then knocked out.... measuring such, after all that a spent primer is required to endure, I can only assume the measurements will be all over the place, and not predictable enough to count on. While also considering, that I just added allot of work to this process for the collection of primers needed to be sorted now. Sorting by color, is pointless, sorting by what primers have green or red sealant remaining is pointless, due to some times, the remaining seal falls off the cups upon removal from the brass, let alone, I have seen red sealant on both pistol and rifle cartridges, likewise, for the other colors. I have seen both sealant colors used on the same lot in the same box. I have seen sealant used on both mil-surp, NATO and civilian self surplus on both pistol and rifle calibers, so the color will not assist me in sorting. Dang I am really bummed at myself for missing this logical step, sorting the primers from all my toys (.32 ACP, .380ACP, 9mm, 9x21mm, .357SIG, .223REM, 5.56NATO, (6.5PRC, are isolated from the rest), .308WIN, 7.62NATO, one would think it is not a huge deal to manage, just simply sort the small from large, But, these next calibers, are offered in small and large cups, like 40cal, 10mm, .45ACP, 6.5CM, both are in my inventory of brass. If I remember correctly, I even think there is some foreign 7.62 stock that I have that is both small and the typical large primer cups, or primer pockets. Dang, that really throws a wrench in how easy I should have made this upon myself.. Well, either way, thank you for taking the time to bring the logical mission, to the masses that simply paid no mind and failed to think logical on this one, like I did.. DUH ! ! ! ! ! Pardon the novel, I am just grumpy at myself, due to how logical doing this is, and I completely dropped the ball on this one..
Name the mistake and I have made it. A couple of things where we may help each other. It's a combo of features that may indicate a way to separate some of the primers. The Cci anvils spp srp and spmag all have a distinguishing ridges on their legs. This feature/marker is relatively easily spotted with a magnifying glass and good light. So the first sort would be all chrome primers. This sort would be fast and easy. Out of these chrome primers take a look at the anvil legs. The telltale ridges (on the anvil legs) indicate that its cci sp sr or spmag. Experience has shown the sr sp and spmag primer cups are cross compatible. Although it's better if u keep sr cups and put them back into a sr primer (of course). And the cci anvils are thee best anvils to use... they (the anvils) are cross compatible in all the cups.... regardless of sr sp spmag as well as they work best in other brand primers (win wolf rem, etc). .... The copper colored cups that also contain a dwarf anvil are cci/fed #41s These dwarf anvils have smooth legs but their dwarf stature can be spotted once u know what u are looking for. These copper cups from the #41s are hard hard and you can easily feel it when you are removing the dimple. So it's not one feature you sort by - it's a combo. You have gauges. The manufacturers all make a mess of things because they don't adhere to their published specs. But in general the thickness of the sp cups is 0.017, sr is 0.020, and the hardened #41s is 0.024 I think Spmag can vary but i usually peg them around 0.020 (middle of the road). I found an article on this and will forward it. I have made other vids on this subject and will forward them for your comment.
I am in the middle of re-shooting this video. I took your comments to heart and I know what to say now. Thank you for your input . Please join us on MeWe. You've obviously have a lot to say. Ha! Please share with us and you can even meet the author of the document. Homemade Primer Course www.aardvarkreloading.com/resources/Homemade%20Primer%20Course%202021-06-01.pdf He knows what's IN the primer compounds and can show you how YOU can reload these things.
@@helpmenowmark Right on... I am on S.H. website. Rumble, I once was, before it was taken down, and is unknown to me, if my old info will allow me to log in still? i will check though. Thanks for the input.
I am an idiot.... Although, I am fully aware of the several sizes of primers, make, model, purpose, (pistol, rifle, large and small, magnum)... I am an idiot.. for the past few months, I have only been dividing my primers up in two category's, "small & large" and any magnum's, just simply added to the "small or large" container... It never even crossed my mind to purposefully isolate them as I was poking them out of the brass, that would dictate what they are, based on the gauge and or hardness of the brass alloy of the cups... I bet there is 5000 small and maybe 1500 large.... I am wondering if when I am peening the cups out flat, to remove the firing pin indentation, if that will let me declare the hardness of the alloys of the cups? I have a bullet seater with a pressure gauge. I would need to machine a small and large anvil punch to adapt on to the press, that would then allow me to see the amount of pressure required to flatten out the firing pin strike dent?.
Well, I now know to start now. Thank you for the heads up. As simple and or as elementary as this notional thinking is, I failed to see this would have really made things allot easier for the reloading process. I suppose, the one saving grace of my failure is, all of the toys I have, their designs all have strong and fast firing pins systems, well, except for the silly KEL-TEC-p32. I have no clue if that would have enough firing pin spring tension to push on through a rifle primer cup's alloy? I really do not know. I may have to try that for giggles sake now. Thank you for not fearing the idea that a video like this, might insult somebody's intelligence, upon how logical sorting the primers up front, upon removal, will help out ALLOT for the reloading aspect... As clearly, this very logical thinking, I clearly failed to see how much this actually would have save me time... Thank you..
I wonder if I can measure the gauge of the material on the lip of the primer cup? if that would, maybe, help divide up, at least the pistol cups from the rifle cups? Of course, when the primers are brand new, never installed, MAYBE? but having been installed, then fired once, then knocked out.... measuring such, after all that a spent primer is required to endure, I can only assume the measurements will be all over the place, and not predictable enough to count on. While also considering, that I just added allot of work to this process for the collection of primers needed to be sorted now. Sorting by color, is pointless, sorting by what primers have green or red sealant remaining is pointless, due to some times, the remaining seal falls off the cups upon removal from the brass, let alone, I have seen red sealant on both pistol and rifle cartridges, likewise, for the other colors. I have seen both sealant colors used on the same lot in the same box. I have seen sealant used on both mil-surp, NATO and civilian self surplus on both pistol and rifle calibers, so the color will not assist me in sorting.
Dang I am really bummed at myself for missing this logical step, sorting the primers from all my toys (.32 ACP, .380ACP, 9mm, 9x21mm, .357SIG, .223REM, 5.56NATO, (6.5PRC, are isolated from the rest), .308WIN, 7.62NATO, one would think it is not a huge deal to manage, just simply sort the small from large, But, these next calibers, are offered in small and large cups, like 40cal, 10mm, .45ACP, 6.5CM, both are in my inventory of brass. If I remember correctly, I even think there is some foreign 7.62 stock that I have that is both small and the typical large primer cups, or primer pockets. Dang, that really throws a wrench in how easy I should have made this upon myself.. Well, either way, thank you for taking the time to bring the logical mission, to the masses that simply paid no mind and failed to think logical on this one, like I did.. DUH ! ! ! ! ! Pardon the novel, I am just grumpy at myself, due to how logical doing this is, and I completely dropped the ball on this one..
Name the mistake and I have made it.
A couple of things where we may help each other.
It's a combo of features that may indicate a way to separate some of the primers.
The Cci anvils spp srp and spmag all have a distinguishing ridges on their legs. This feature/marker is relatively easily spotted with a magnifying glass and good light. So the first sort would be all chrome primers. This sort would be fast and easy.
Out of these chrome primers take a look at the anvil legs. The telltale ridges (on the anvil legs) indicate that its cci sp sr or spmag.
Experience has shown the sr sp and spmag primer cups are cross compatible.
Although it's better if u keep sr cups and put them back into a sr primer (of course).
And the cci anvils are thee best anvils to use... they (the anvils) are cross compatible in all the cups.... regardless of sr sp spmag as well as they work best in other brand primers (win wolf rem, etc).
....
The copper colored cups that also contain a dwarf anvil are cci/fed #41s
These dwarf anvils have smooth legs but their dwarf stature can be spotted once u know what u are looking for.
These copper cups from the #41s are hard hard and you can easily feel it when you are removing the dimple.
So it's not one feature you sort by - it's a combo.
You have gauges. The manufacturers all make a mess of things because they don't adhere to their published specs. But in general the thickness of the sp cups is 0.017, sr is 0.020, and the hardened #41s is 0.024
I think Spmag can vary but i usually peg them around 0.020 (middle of the road).
I found an article on this and will forward it.
I have made other vids on this subject and will forward them for your comment.
www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/a-primer-on-primers.6936610/
rumble.com/vf3d81-faq-homemade-primers-are-the-anvils-compatible.html
I am in the middle of re-shooting this video. I took your comments to heart and I know what to say now. Thank you for your input . Please join us on MeWe. You've obviously have a lot to say. Ha! Please share with us and you can even meet the author of the document. Homemade Primer Course www.aardvarkreloading.com/resources/Homemade%20Primer%20Course%202021-06-01.pdf
He knows what's IN the primer compounds and can show you how YOU can reload these things.
@@helpmenowmark Right on... I am on S.H. website. Rumble, I once was, before it was taken down, and is unknown to me, if my old info will allow me to log in still? i will check though. Thanks for the input.
I want you to join my group on MeWe: mewe.com/join/primerreloading
rumble.com/vfxv3p-homemade-primers-cups-and-anvils-part-2.html