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Sub-Zero Refrigerator Repair, Not Cooling Issue With Freon Leak, Drawer Type Sub-Zero 700 Series.
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- Опубликовано: 20 май 2024
- Sub-Zero Refrigerator model number 700BR had a leak in a sealed system and the refrigerator was not cooling. This video is about how to replace the evaporator coil with a heat exchanger and filter dryer in a Sub-Zero drawer-type refrigerator. Sub-Zero uses the 700 series as a drawer-type refrigerator, freezer, or beverage holder. We are a small family-owned appliance repair servicer in the Austin area and we repair Sub-Zero appliances. With any question on how to fix Sub-Zero refrigerators with no cooling issues, leaking water issues, or ice maker issues please feel free to write your question in a comment section and I will get back to you shortly with the answer.
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You did a good job but you had a challenge i knw it too as am a technician myself this job of ours you sweat like hell but i live what you did
@@bennimotlatsi8901 lol yes. It’s so annoying repair and I find this type of fridge is 5 times more difficult than a regular SubZeros. There is no room inside to bend a copper line, and it’s inside the insulation. But as a tech, I can’t run from jobs and yes, I always have challenges with small fridges )))
This is about a Amazon Basics Fridge with an Inverter Comressor ( VFL070CY ). Double-Door 345 Litres
Thnking that it might be a restriction, I went ahead and separated the Low and High side (removed the Dryer) then Flushed the System. 1st from the Capillary End then from the Evaporator End then reversed and repeated. Then the High-Side 1st from the Discharge-Side End then from Yoder Loop End ( entry of Dryer ) then reversed and Flushed it again.
A little oil maybe 15ml came out from the Evaporator. The Internal Condensor had a little rust.
Happy that the System was Clean I Closed it up.
Then Vacuumed with 2cfm pump for 30 mins and charged with r600a gas. Charged little-by-little until standing-pressure reached 35psi. Waited 10 mins for the liquid to turn into vapor. Then Switched On the Fridge.
Ambient temp 35'c
after the compressor gained speed ( about 10-15 mins ) It went below 0 psi so charged it again. Repeated until 0 psi was steady.
Switched Fridge it off for 20mins. then restarted.
After 2hrs. The Freezer showed -20'c 😃
Have been monitoring the System for the past 3-days.
1st day There was ICE on the Suction line, Freezer temp was -20'c. Switched Of the Fridge and discharged gas until 36psi.
2nd day The suction line had condensation, there was a small pool of water under it, maybe 3-4 tablesppons. so covered it with Insulation.
3rd day Freezer temp 15.5'c
things learnt:
1. psi pressure (while running) ranges from 1psi to -20psi. current from .35 amps to 1.3 amps.
2. Most of the time 0psi, then -5psi with .575 amps 85Watts 230Volts
3. Brazing is not easy, you have to know where to point to the Flame and its strength. Don't play with fire bring in an experienced person
Finally, I am not a technician, I had to do this because I could not find qualified technicians ( New Delhi, India ) for inverter compressors with R600a
Because its a new technology. Old tech Fixed speed compressors with R134a are easier and much safer.
I posted this so that It may serve as a reference for non-technicians. and I cannot stress enough the importance of an experirenced technician who can Braze properly.
@acrepaircenter9961 and @randomrefrigeration4564,
I cannot Thank you enough.
You will make a great technician for the researches and repairs you did on your fridge my friend )). Great job !!
It’s was more likely restricted and not low
Previous repairs was made and if nitrogen isn’t purged while brazing you run the high risk of clogging up that cap tube.
Cap tube restriction will cause - psi suction it’s best if it’s already tapped to weigh in the name plate charge. If it starts cooling and pressures are normal it’s was low
If it is restricted it will remain in a vacuum
But I do agree with his repair by changing the coil and line set. He covered all bases on the low side
However R134A is infamous for cooking the oil and restricting cap tubes
Good luck thanks for the video
Omg I just seen your wacky vacuum pump set up.
That’s ridiculous it will not pull out moisture what a joke buy a vacuum pump
It was low on Freon. I repair so many of subzeros. Restricted kinda still has Freon in the system. This one didn’t. And compressor pump will do the job. I think, learned from other respectable techs in life and on the internet, you pull -28 psi it should be ok. Mine does -28psi. What else do you need. Just get a newer compressor and don’t be afraid of doing extra steps with the repair.
A vacuum pump has 2 stages for pulling deep vacuums
PSI has nothing to do with a vacuum that’s pull rate only
Microns is what you have to observe
Sub zero would not approve your evacuation procedure
Get a micron gauge and connect it to your set up
Moisture is your enemy
I really like Sub Zero it’s built to more a commercial standard and consumers certainly pay a lot for it.
So professional service with the correct tools is to be expected
You can use vacuum pressure unit conversion and compare PSI to Microns. The regular compressor can be used to vacuum the system. But it has to be a dedicated compressor for vacuum purposes since with all the contaminations from the systems you recover freon, and the compressor cannot be installed in the future on any new refrigerators. It has to be only for vacuuming purposes. This is not me, but it was approved by tech support at Viking as well. With Sub-Zero I cleared this question a while ago. I just had a chance to call Viking the other day and asked this question. Regarding the moisture, it will be anyway in the system, we have to install a new filter dryer, and the filter dryer must be replaced with any sealed system repair, no matter the age of the unit.
I have a double door Hisense and a side by side Haier. Both around 1.5yrs old and with r600a and inverter compressors.
Both failed in the current Heat-wave. Gas leaked.
Am trying to fix the double-door Hisense. Used an old compressor for the vacuum. But the running pressure was -20 psi.
Ambient temp is 35 c
So went and bought a vacuum pump 2cfm
Did a vacuum for 25mins and refilled the gas by psi. Filled in upto 35psi standing pressure and started it, after 2hrs The running pressure is again -20psi 😢
I think it might be a restriction How to confirm?
@@RitinPali Hi. Yes, it could be a restriction. Or it could be a freon leak. You need to get a pressure reading on the high side where the filter dryer is. If it's also -20 psi on the high side, you have an internal leak. Sealed systems have up to 5 years warranty on parts so I recommend calling the manufacturer and letting the repair tech do the job. But you have to pay for the labor which is expensive for this type of repairs
A couple of questions: 1) could you have pulled the unit out entirely to make the repair instead of in-place? Or it wouldn't have made much of a difference cuz the clearance to the parts would've been the same either way? 2) how much did you end up charging for the repair, with the parts included? 3) it looked like the repair must've taken at least a full afternoon, and with the initial diagnostics, did the labor alone total like nearly 5+ hours? 4) that model seemed to be a pretty old one, and it already had a previous repair as you mentioned, would you have recommended the owner just replace with a new unit (not necessarily subzero)?
You don’t have to pull out the unit since there is no access from the side or the backside of the unit, the only time you want to pull it out, if you want to place it on something higher to make it easier on your knees. I prefer to do repairs on customers place and it’s faster for me to complete the repair. Total for the repair depends, somewhere from $1700-$2300. This is most companies charge for the repairs. Most subzeros have built in panels installed, and kitchen looks nicer. Even advising customers to buy a new unit, kinda downs t make sense. For every this type of the repair, we have to arrange our schedule and come back for the installation, which took me 4 hours to complete. I spent like 20 minutes of that making the video lol. But yeah, you give customer an estimate, customer will shop around and they will make a decision. As for me, the repair is much cheaper. I hope I answered your question
@@acrepaircenter9961 thanks for the lightning fast response! In terms of my question about replacement, I guess i'm concerned that the cost of repairs to such an old unit may continue to pile up since 1) other parts that haven't been replaced may start failing, and 2) more importantly - depending on the work of the repairperson, they may actually introduce more problems down the line (because they're incompetent or on-purpose. (As you showed, the previous filter replacement used off brand parts, but more importantly, they didn't put everything back properly, perhaps leading to the leak(s) that lead to you being called a few years/months later!). There are so many repairpersons/shops taking advantage of homeowners (esp those they perceive to be able to afford large repair bills) who may not understand the systems. To get someone trustworthy and diligent like yourself is a shot-in-the-dark, as opposed to the norm. So, from a long-term investment perspective, it would almost seem that if the fridge is extremely old, it may be better to replace with a new model from the factory (ID-27R in this instance) which may be more energy-efficient and have new warranties, than to take a chance getting a dishonest repairperson who'll take advantage of the situation (replace more parts than needed or take longer than needed). Even if the repair was done well, no repairperson is going to offer a factory-level warranty on the work, so you're taking a huge chance that the unit could break down again. For this particular unit, the homeowner must've paid nearly or more than the price of a new unit with the two known repairs, and they still have basically a 20+yr old unit, at least for many of the other components that haven't yet been replaced. So yeah... while $1.7k-$2.3k sounds like a 'deal' compared to a new unit... that price hardly takes the total costs into consideration. Sorry for the sentiment.. we've just seen so so many dishonest repairpeople, it's really sad.
most likely a restriction in the cap tube inside the filter drier. I would had replace the filter drier
that suction line gee that's a whole other potential issue being bent like that
I am a technician for a different brand and i would like to know how much money do a subzero tech make yearly?
R134a is to be charged as a liquid, I believe.
Typically I turn the tank upside down, then the Freon will be in a liquid form. Use my weight I charge exactly how much it needs Freon. Shut the tank off and then turn the unit on. But on this video I realized my weight doesn’t work and I charged the Freon without weight and it takes a very long time. When tank stays straight, the Freon grows as a gas, so I used gas. I didn’t want to overcharge it. I don’t like charging this way.
R-134A is not a blended refrigerant so it will not fractionate because 134 is only 134A
May be charged liquid or vapor.
All 400 series gases or blends and have to be charged liquid
@@randomrefrigeration4564 for 134a it doesn’t matter you charge liquid or gas. Even with the tech support of subzero I spoke about it. Nothing wrong with either way. Liquid is by weight and it’s faster way to charge.
@@acrepaircenter9961 that’s exactly what I said in my comment liquid or vapor doesn’t matter with 134A it’s not a blend
I’m sorry you refrigeration knowledge is very superficial
Oh that looks like an expensive mini fridge.
Yes. Personally I don’t understand the price compare to the size. Too expensive !!
They are 5000 dollars. I need to repair mine.