I just recently did this repair but also replaced the evaporator and compressor. The hardest part of the job was feeding the heat exchanger through the back of the cabinet without tearing the insulation. After fighting with it for some time and tearing some of the insulation, I put some wire glide in the holes and the heat exchanger slid right through without tearing the insulation. Thanks for the video, it was super helpful!
One symptom of a bad heat-exchanger is no refrigeration with the unit running in a deep vacuum. Normally we would turn the unit off and if the pressure doesn't rise and stays in a deep vacuum the cap tube is clogged. I first recovered all the freon through the high side before opening the sealed system. At the end of the video after I checked for freon leaks I ran the compressor with the high-side open to remove any air from the system and then I recharged it.
Wow ! I have two 700 units in my house, the Fridge & Freezer are seperate. I was thinking of repairing the Fridge last year but got scared as they were so expensive, that I did not. I did remove some panels and found that a Plastic Bag was blocking interior circulation so that fixed it. Your skill at repairing this unit is amazing to me, great work and thanks for the video ! Also if I need it how do I find a Sub Zero repair man in Minneapolis, there is only one "Approved" company in the whole area ??
I love your video style. I have a 700 TCI 2. Got it second hand.... It was running cooling and freezing correctly but ran NON STOP. Eventually, an error displayed saying compressors been over running. Bought a manifold gauge set and tried to fill it myself. May have done it incorrectly. Then I found the condenser fan was spinning but not actually moving any air. Replaced fan. Wish I would have noticed before playing with R134 stuff... grrr. Now the fridge (haven't really tried freezer since) runs okay for a couple days then starts to freeze things. I just revisited your video (which I've saved to my "fridge repair playlist" lol) because I'm going to take the inside covers off to see if there's ice buildup anywhere. I'm hoping I fixed the problem when changing that fan and the fridge is freezing things because I've overfilled the r132 or something. Got any things you'd check if you were me? Thanks again for putting the time into the subtitles and clear photography.
Obviously you overfilled the unit.. if you were mindful enough to weigh the refrigerant when putting it in there than you can take it back out and weigh it with a recovery tank.. you cant just go and push the schrader valve in expecting it to release refrigerant either.. apart from frostbite risks or the valve sticking open you are going to introduce air in the system while doing so, or could.. and any air inside a closed system is not a good thing,. And you likely added a bunch of stop leak or dye when filling it if you used the autoshop 134... almost all of them have that crap in em..
I have a 700tc with the refrigerator not cooling. After taking the back panel off, the area where the evaporator connects to the heat exchanger (upper left corner) had about an inch of ice built up. I knew that meant low refrigerant/leak, so i had someone come out. He added 134a and told me i need an evaporator. Do you routinely make such a diagnosis without pinpointing the leak? There are many other places for a leak, no?? (Someone already brazed in access ports). If its a very slow leak, i might think the new evaporator fixed the problem, and wont have an issue for a year until the refrigerant leaks out again. Should i worry? The guy seemed great, and i trust him. Should i have him locate the leak difinitively? Thanks 4 your opinion.
If you put Freon in the system without knowing that it needed Freon then you may have overcharged it. The best way to know for sure is to recover all the Freon in the system and weigh the gas in with a charging column. High Backpressure would also indicate a problem.
I got a 700br thats just an undercabinet 2 drawer fridge. The old guy has stopped doing the deed after 20 long years.. took out the bottom shelf where the business end is and the entire pan is full of the neon green nasty, theres some coming from the bottom of the compressor but for the most part, about 98% of it, is all in the drip pan.. now there are lines over top of the drip pan but all the coils and drier and all are oitside of that pan.. otherwise there are no skid marks anywhere else to be seen.. i even vacced it out and refilled it along with a bunch of my own color dye and the thing worked for another Year or so then stopped cooling again.. no freeze ups but also not much if any of my dye is to be seen.. but system pressure is way down.. but it still equalizes when powered off.. boggling my brain pipes.. not sure if the drier is clogged, cap tube or in one of the coils.. thinking cap tube may have sprung the first leak and when i repressurized it again it must have pushed some debris down in a orifice or something over that year and just blocked the dye one way and let the system air down.. or im missing something obvious here.. no freeze ups.. about to just gut the old dude and replace it all with a new system... dunno...
I just recently did this repair but also replaced the evaporator and compressor. The hardest part of the job was feeding the heat exchanger through the back of the cabinet without tearing the insulation. After fighting with it for some time and tearing some of the insulation, I put some wire glide in the holes and the heat exchanger slid right through without tearing the insulation.
Thanks for the video, it was super helpful!
What I usually do in a situation like that is wrapping the insulation with electrical tape before I pull it through. Good remedy on your part.
One symptom of a bad heat-exchanger is no refrigeration with the unit running in a deep vacuum. Normally we would turn the unit off and if the pressure doesn't rise and stays in a deep vacuum the cap tube is clogged. I first recovered all the freon through the high side before opening the sealed system. At the end of the video after I checked for freon leaks I ran the compressor with the high-side open to remove any air from the system and then I recharged it.
Wow ! I have two 700 units in my house, the Fridge & Freezer are seperate. I was thinking of repairing the Fridge last year but got scared as they were so expensive, that I did not. I did remove some panels and found that a Plastic Bag was blocking interior circulation so that fixed it. Your skill at repairing this unit is amazing to me, great work and thanks for the video ! Also if I need it how do I find a Sub Zero repair man in Minneapolis, there is only one "Approved" company in the whole area ??
You can call Corporate Headquarters at 800-222-7820, they will have an authorized service company to recommend.
@@SubZeroSpecialists Great Thanks, James
no vac pump?? Great job! Very old fashion way to fix the fridge ))
Masterful 🎉
I love your video style. I have a 700 TCI 2. Got it second hand....
It was running cooling and freezing correctly but ran NON STOP. Eventually, an error displayed saying compressors been over running.
Bought a manifold gauge set and tried to fill it myself. May have done it incorrectly. Then I found the condenser fan was spinning but not actually moving any air. Replaced fan. Wish I would have noticed before playing with R134 stuff... grrr.
Now the fridge (haven't really tried freezer since) runs okay for a couple days then starts to freeze things.
I just revisited your video (which I've saved to my "fridge repair playlist" lol) because I'm going to take the inside covers off to see if there's ice buildup anywhere. I'm hoping I fixed the problem when changing that fan and the fridge is freezing things because I've overfilled the r132 or something.
Got any things you'd check if you were me?
Thanks again for putting the time into the subtitles and clear photography.
Obviously you overfilled the unit.. if you were mindful enough to weigh the refrigerant when putting it in there than you can take it back out and weigh it with a recovery tank.. you cant just go and push the schrader valve in expecting it to release refrigerant either.. apart from frostbite risks or the valve sticking open you are going to introduce air in the system while doing so, or could.. and any air inside a closed system is not a good thing,. And you likely added a bunch of stop leak or dye when filling it if you used the autoshop 134... almost all of them have that crap in em..
Thanks for vedeo sir
Would you be able to show a video installing a water valve assembly for a 700TCI?
Thanks
I don’t have a 700TCI here in the shop
I have a 700tc with the refrigerator not cooling. After taking the back panel off, the area where the evaporator connects to the heat exchanger (upper left corner) had about an inch of ice built up.
I knew that meant low refrigerant/leak, so i had someone come out. He added 134a and told me i need an evaporator. Do you routinely make such a diagnosis without pinpointing the leak?
There are many other places for a leak, no?? (Someone already brazed in access ports).
If its a very slow leak, i might think the new evaporator fixed the problem, and wont have an issue for a year until the refrigerant leaks out again. Should i worry? The guy seemed great, and i trust him. Should i have him locate the leak difinitively? Thanks 4 your opinion.
The most likely place for a freon leak is in the coil or the heat exchanger. It sounds like your guy is legit.
If you put Freon in the system without knowing that it needed Freon then you may have overcharged it. The best way to know for sure is to recover all the Freon in the system and weigh the gas in with a charging column. High Backpressure would also indicate a problem.
I got a 700br thats just an undercabinet 2 drawer fridge. The old guy has stopped doing the deed after 20 long years.. took out the bottom shelf where the business end is and the entire pan is full of the neon green nasty, theres some coming from the bottom of the compressor but for the most part, about 98% of it, is all in the drip pan.. now there are lines over top of the drip pan but all the coils and drier and all are oitside of that pan.. otherwise there are no skid marks anywhere else to be seen.. i even vacced it out and refilled it along with a bunch of my own color dye and the thing worked for another Year or so then stopped cooling again.. no freeze ups but also not much if any of my dye is to be seen.. but system pressure is way down.. but it still equalizes when powered off.. boggling my brain pipes.. not sure if the drier is clogged, cap tube or in one of the coils.. thinking cap tube may have sprung the first leak and when i repressurized it again it must have pushed some debris down in a orifice or something over that year and just blocked the dye one way and let the system air down.. or im missing something obvious here.. no freeze ups.. about to just gut the old dude and replace it all with a new system... dunno...
I have a leak possibly on the joint to the condenser because I see some ice forming at the joint. How can I seal that ?
Ice is an indication of a pressure drop due to a restriction. If you see ice forming on the filter drier or cap tube, replace the drier.
Hi sir may i request wiring diagram Sub-Zero 700 series sir ty very much for your help Jacob's well refrigeration and aircon services corp.
You can find wiring diagrams for the 700 series on our website under Tech Help. subzerospecialists.com