Cut both ends at the same time and the ends will match perfectly (angles will match)... Use transparent heat-shrink for perfect alignment and you can see the join forming when you heat them...
Take a little piece of PTFE tube suitable for 1.75 mm filament. Put 1 end of filament trough. Heat with lighter. Pull back filament in PTFE tube. Push other filament in PTFE tube and they will fuse together. No waste of kapton or aircan liquid and its quick.
you are left with tube on filament that you need to cut down to get rid of or just leave there untill whole roll will be used unless you want to connect just small pieces of filament
crickey!! after trying for days of heating both ends of the filament i wanted to join, i followed your idea - genius!!!! finally, i can use all those short lengths of filament to print multi-colored flowers and such things!! thank you. thank you thank you !! it works!
This is so much better than using a bit of PTFE tube because you can actually join the end of a spool to a fresh one while a print is ongoing and running out of filament. With both methods, the tube needs to be cut and removed, it can't just be slid away because once joined because one end is in your extruder, and the other in the middle of the fresh spool. Also the heatshrink provides some contraction force that keeps the diameter in check (vs PTFE that usually has a 2mm ID, making the join slightly bigger). On top of that, heatshrink tubing is cheaper than PTFE. Definitely the superior method. Thanks for sharing!
Or just pause the machine if your machine is newer and manually replace it. Much quicker and easier. Done it like 5 time and I am a novice in 3D printing. I was afraid at first but it is so easy to do after you get the hang of it
Nice! I have everything except the tape, which seems inexpensive enough. Cutting sideways gives you more surface area for strength too! Great idea. Definitely going to be using this trick.
This looks great, I'll try it next time my spool is nearly finished. I'm guessing that you tape the filament down to stop it and the thermometer from moving and that you use kapton tape because it works well in wide range of temperatures. Do you find it necessary? Also, you used air duster to quickly freeze the joint, would it be OK to let it cool down on its own?
Peter - Kapton tape is necessary to protect the filament that is not covered by heat shrink from melting, you can use aluminum foil too. You can of course let it cool down on its own, probably event better since there's no thermal shock going from 160C to -10C .
Okay Thanks. I found your meter on Newark for $32usd. Found this one on Amazon for $17.95 www.amazon.com/CAMWAY-Multimeter-Resistance-Temperature-Multi-Tester/dp/B07DPM27X4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1535752766&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=Multimeter+Temperature+Probe&psc=1
MUCH easier to just use a short (1" ... 25mm) length of silicone tubing (1.5mm ID x 3mm OD). Push filament in from both ends .. stretch the tube outwards a little (this provides a little tension to push filaments together) and then heat with flame for a few seconds. Wait to cool or force cool and then slide the silicone tube away from the join .. check .. and if all looks good .. use a sharp blaze to carefully slice edge off silicone tube and remove. Virtually a perfect join every time. No filing or sanding or post treatment required. You'll be hard pushed to even see the join!! Another advantage is the the flame never comes in contact with the filament .. therefore .. NO oxidisation!!
One problem I see is that you didn't match the bend so the coil of filament was continuous if you want to dispense it from a spool. In fact it looked like it was about as far off as you could get it.
Cut both ends at the same time and the ends will match perfectly (angles will match)...
Use transparent heat-shrink for perfect alignment and you can see the join forming when you heat them...
Michael - good ideas ! Thanks you.
You can also use 1/16th inch ID silicon tubing.
Take a little piece of PTFE tube suitable for 1.75 mm filament. Put 1 end of filament trough. Heat with lighter. Pull back filament in PTFE tube. Push other filament in PTFE tube and they will fuse together. No waste of kapton or aircan liquid and its quick.
Thanks for the tip, will have to try it sometime ...
you are left with tube on filament that you need to cut down to get rid of or just leave there untill whole roll will be used
unless you want to connect just small pieces of filament
Just did exactly that 2 days ago worked great
dong it that way leaves a big bloop on the end of the filament.
crickey!! after trying for days of heating both ends of the filament i wanted to join, i followed your idea - genius!!!! finally, i can use all those short lengths of filament to print multi-colored flowers and such things!! thank you. thank you thank you !! it works!
This is so much better than using a bit of PTFE tube because you can actually join the end of a spool to a fresh one while a print is ongoing and running out of filament. With both methods, the tube needs to be cut and removed, it can't just be slid away because once joined because one end is in your extruder, and the other in the middle of the fresh spool. Also the heatshrink provides some contraction force that keeps the diameter in check (vs PTFE that usually has a 2mm ID, making the join slightly bigger). On top of that, heatshrink tubing is cheaper than PTFE. Definitely the superior method. Thanks for sharing!
Or just pause the machine if your machine is newer and manually replace it. Much quicker and easier. Done it like 5 time and I am a novice in 3D printing. I was afraid at first but it is so easy to do after you get the hang of it
Nice! I have everything except the tape, which seems inexpensive enough. Cutting sideways gives you more surface area for strength too! Great idea. Definitely going to be using this trick.
Is it possible to fuse ABS filament? I keep thinking I am successful, but the joint is brittle and falls off.
Use see through / transparent heat shrink !!
This looks great, I'll try it next time my spool is nearly finished.
I'm guessing that you tape the filament down to stop it and the thermometer from moving and that you use kapton tape because it works well in wide range of temperatures. Do you find it necessary?
Also, you used air duster to quickly freeze the joint, would it be OK to let it cool down on its own?
Peter - Kapton tape is necessary to protect the filament that is not covered by heat shrink from melting, you can use aluminum foil too. You can of course let it cool down on its own, probably event better since there's no thermal shock going from 160C to -10C .
Did you make that temperature probe yourself? I found the meter online but not the probe. Thanks
This is a k type probe. Most meters with temp have it included.
Okay Thanks. I found your meter on Newark for $32usd. Found this one on Amazon for $17.95
www.amazon.com/CAMWAY-Multimeter-Resistance-Temperature-Multi-Tester/dp/B07DPM27X4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1535752766&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=Multimeter+Temperature+Probe&psc=1
MUCH easier to just use a short (1" ... 25mm) length of silicone tubing (1.5mm ID x 3mm OD).
Push filament in from both ends .. stretch the tube outwards a little (this provides a little tension to push filaments together) and then heat with flame for a few seconds. Wait to cool or force cool and then slide the silicone tube away from the join .. check .. and if all looks good .. use a sharp blaze to carefully slice edge off silicone tube and remove. Virtually a perfect join every time. No filing or sanding or post treatment required. You'll be hard pushed to even see the join!! Another advantage is the the flame never comes in contact with the filament .. therefore .. NO oxidisation!!
Thanks man. I've got all the equipment you used and can't wait to try it.
Had good heat on one side.
I use superglue for this. It works on any filament and almost instantly, no heating required
Hmm. interesting. Wouldn't it have risk to mess up the hot end / nozzle?
@@soundspark no it doesn't I am talking about tiny smudge of superglue, it doesn't cause any problems. Try it on your own.
Good job friend
defeats the purpose of saving money.. used a lot of materials which i assume costs more than the few feet of filament you are trying to save
Nice method!
If you use clear heat shrink tubing, it's much easier...........
So cleaver, thanks for sharing.
One problem I see is that you didn't match the bend so the coil of filament was continuous if you want to dispense it from a spool. In fact it looked like it was about as far off as you could get it.
meanwhile I just use a lighter and 20 seconds later I'm back to watching youtube.
Interesting video. It might have been a bit better if most of it wasn't upside down.
thanks bro you're a genius
The thumbnail made this look easy it got way to compilcated lol nice job tho
Sure, that's not a tedious process at all...
Thank you this will save me filament👍
And that is a 7dll weld.
nice but there should be a simpler way i need to search further
Simpler way: ruclips.net/video/9vUIDOGWPCE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/gyMvT61mYPY/видео.html
Great!
💕👍
you goofed you should make sure bothpieces of filament bend the same way or you wont be able to get them on a spool
hay anybody from 2226?
now that is just way too much work to fuse two pieces together
Music is awful
worth a try, music is annoying.
Used more money in consumables and time than the last bit of filament on the roll is worth.
Ill keep throwing it away
Way too complicated & time consuming. There are much easier ways
Way over thought
next time maybe don't put music on your video...
WAAAY too much work to save a few feet of filament. Out it goes.
See my other video for a simple method, this is a methodical experiment.
Oh yeah that's easy not