Thanks for going through your discoveries and thought processes to arrive at good conclusions. Some would call it "the scientific method". I call it good, informative thinking.
For accurate checking of a timing curve a digital tach/advance timing light is a must. They aren't that expensive and are well worth it. Enjoy you videos ad the information you provide. I performed this exchange on my 4.3 Mercruiser as well. I did a few other upgrades like going to a 4bbl and a closed loop cooling system and I am just waiting for a flame arrestor so I can take it for a test ride.
Digital timing lights don’t work on waste spark coils. Boats don’t have waste spark coils but I’m wary of any tool that has different rules for different engines.
@@moccasinmarine a dial-back timing light will work just fine on wasted spark if you can divide by two in your head for rpm display and ignore the additional false flash that's 180* out.
Thanks for the feedback. I hope everyone upgrades to the Delco EST. The thunderbolt ignition is nothing more than a packaged ignition built for Mercruiser by Nippon Denso. The design is dated and obsolete and is not worth the headache of keeping.
Great series Sir. I have the previous model 4.3lx with a four barrel. Not the same thunderbolt module but much of this video series will be helpful if it fails and I have to upgrade. Of course I would track down a schematic to source the proper wires. 👍👍
apprieciate all your math. but just wanted to say many timing lights have a dial to change advance so if you are looking for 20 degrees advance turn dial to 20 and should show TDC on timing marks. Just an easy way to verify advance at high RPM.
Yea I know about those type digital lights. I just don’t have one. I’ve read that digital advance timing lights don’t work with waste spark ignitions too. Is that true?
Hello, first I want to thank you very much on the work you have put into these videos, this has helped me greatly!! I followed your videos on replacing my Thunder Bolt V on my 2004 Mercruiser 5.7 vortec engine and a little confused on the timing. The shop manual says for the Thunder Bolt V timing in base mode is 10 deg's BTDC but I think I am hearing in your video not to set the timing to 10 deg's, am I incorrect? and the formula you mention for me comes out to be .70" BTDC (10 deg ÷ 360 x 8' dia = .70) because I have a 8" dia harmonic balancer. So if I am incorrect can you please advise me on what my brain isn't understanding or what timing I should be using.
You need to watch part 6 and then look at the tables at the end of the video. 5.7 v8s have a base timing of 12 degrees not 10. Most v8s have timing marks on the balancer so you don’t need to calculate anything using balancer diameter. Just put the distributor in base timing mode and set the distributor to 12 degrees BTDC at idle speed.
@@moccasinmarine I differently do not have timing marks on my balance but looking at it closer it says made in china so maybe the previous owner changed it and it is an aftermarket part. I looked at your table at the end of you video and noticed it says 5.7GL and the GL indicates it is a Volvo penta engine and I agree it is 12 deg. BTDC. I have both shop manuals for the 5.7 2004 Volvo penta and Mercruiser and it is strange that Volvo penta says 12 deg. BTDC and Mercruiser says 10 deg. BTDC
You’re not understanding that Volvo Penta and Mercruiser both buy GM engines so it doesn’t matter what brand it is. They are the same engine. The initial timing also isn’t what runs the engine. Both the thunderbolt and Delco probably have the same final timing at any given RPM. One just has a different initial setting. So ignore the Mercruiser specs and use Volvo Penta specs. You’ll get the same timing in the end. Also if you don’t have timing marks on the balancer or timing cover then you will have a hard time setting the timing. Look real close at both because sometimes the marks are too faint to see well.
transpo dm1965hd is also the module part number as they are most likley the mfg for most of the aftermarket, can be had for $20.00 buy a couple for spares. my 1997 mercruiser with thunderbolt V un-obtanium ignition cheaper to swap in an EST than to buy parts for thunderbolt
Anything but genuine GM is a crapshoot. You haven’t watched enough of my videos to know that aftermarket modules fail on a regular basis. Also, do you really think a $20 Chinese made module knockoff is going to work reliably? You get what you pay for.
I also saw that one. It’s also listed on eBay and finditparts.com. I didn’t buy it because it doesn’t look genuine GM. What happens is someone buys the GM module, swaps in a knockoff, returns it for a refund, and RockAuto not having humans just sells it again as GM. The giveaway is the chrome screw holes. GM doesn’t use chrome screw holes on any modules I’ve ever seen.
What size engine do you have? How many spark plug towers are on the distributor? If there are 8 towers and you have a 305 V8, then 10 degrees is correct per the charts at the end of part 6.
Hello, it’s 4.3 L vortec remains w/4 barrel carburetors they said the rated horsepower is 225 HP. The instructions said The timing is set at 10° before top dead center. Both engines have EST ignition systems.
The part number in Volvo Penta is 3854003. You can try and cross reference this number for the GM equivalent on Google. You should use the charts in my video. 10 degrees is too much and will damage your engine. I’m a little lost on what you are doing. If you are running the Thunderbolt ignition set it to what your owners manual says. If you upgraded to the Delco EST Ignition set it to the chart in my video.
interesting theory on the dwell being used. the difference between a 4 and a v8 would be double so seeong 5000 rpm vs 2500 or 10000 makes sense but the v6 in the middle????....
It has to be something in the shape of the curve. A V8 sine wave is going to have steeper slopes between peaks because there are 4 peaks instead of 3 or 2 in any given time period. It’s not using total pulses per time period because that’s RPM dependent. It has to be a unique characteristic of each distributor size. One day when I’ve got nothing else to do I’ll try and find out what it is. Don’t hold your breath though.
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Thanks for going through your discoveries and thought processes to arrive at good conclusions. Some would call it "the scientific method". I call it good, informative thinking.
For accurate checking of a timing curve a digital tach/advance timing light is a must. They aren't that expensive and are well worth it. Enjoy you videos ad the information you provide. I performed this exchange on my 4.3 Mercruiser as well. I did a few other upgrades like going to a 4bbl and a closed loop cooling system and I am just waiting for a flame arrestor so I can take it for a test ride.
Digital timing lights don’t work on waste spark coils. Boats don’t have waste spark coils but I’m wary of any tool that has different rules for different engines.
@@moccasinmarine a dial-back timing light will work just fine on wasted spark if you can divide by two in your head for rpm display and ignore the additional false flash that's 180* out.
Thank you for doing this. I just completed my install on a 5.0 and it is a game changer. Motor is a beast now!
Thanks for the feedback. I hope everyone upgrades to the Delco EST. The thunderbolt ignition is nothing more than a packaged ignition built for Mercruiser by Nippon Denso. The design is dated and obsolete and is not worth the headache of keeping.
Great series Sir. I have the previous model 4.3lx with a four barrel. Not the same thunderbolt module but much of this video series will be helpful if it fails and I have to upgrade. Of course I would track down a schematic to source the proper wires. 👍👍
apprieciate all your math. but just wanted to say many timing lights have a dial to change advance so if you are looking for 20 degrees advance turn dial to 20 and should show TDC on timing marks. Just an easy way to verify advance at high RPM.
Yea I know about those type digital lights. I just don’t have one. I’ve read that digital advance timing lights don’t work with waste spark ignitions too. Is that true?
I definitely subscribed. Thanks again.
Hello, first I want to thank you very much on the work you have put into these videos, this has helped me greatly!! I followed your videos on replacing my Thunder Bolt V on my 2004 Mercruiser 5.7 vortec engine and a little confused on the timing. The shop manual says for the Thunder Bolt V timing in base mode is 10 deg's BTDC but I think I am hearing in your video not to set the timing to 10 deg's, am I incorrect? and the formula you mention for me comes out to be .70" BTDC (10 deg ÷ 360 x 8' dia = .70) because I have a 8" dia harmonic balancer. So if I am incorrect can you please advise me on what my brain isn't understanding or what timing I should be using.
You need to watch part 6 and then look at the tables at the end of the video. 5.7 v8s have a base timing of 12 degrees not 10. Most v8s have timing marks on the balancer so you don’t need to calculate anything using balancer diameter. Just put the distributor in base timing mode and set the distributor to 12 degrees BTDC at idle speed.
@@moccasinmarine I differently do not have timing marks on my balance but looking at it closer it says made in china so maybe the previous owner changed it and it is an aftermarket part. I looked at your table at the end of you video and noticed it says 5.7GL and the GL indicates it is a Volvo penta engine and I agree it is 12 deg. BTDC. I have both shop manuals for the 5.7 2004 Volvo penta and Mercruiser and it is strange that Volvo penta says 12 deg. BTDC and Mercruiser says 10 deg. BTDC
You’re not understanding that Volvo Penta and Mercruiser both buy GM engines so it doesn’t matter what brand it is. They are the same engine. The initial timing also isn’t what runs the engine. Both the thunderbolt and Delco probably have the same final timing at any given RPM. One just has a different initial setting. So ignore the Mercruiser specs and use Volvo Penta specs. You’ll get the same timing in the end.
Also if you don’t have timing marks on the balancer or timing cover then you will have a hard time setting the timing. Look real close at both because sometimes the marks are too faint to see well.
Yeah agreed and thank you very much, tomorrow I will have it running perfect because of your help and educating me
transpo dm1965hd is also the module part number as they are most likley the mfg for most of the aftermarket, can be had for $20.00 buy a couple for spares. my 1997 mercruiser with thunderbolt V un-obtanium ignition cheaper to swap in an EST than to buy parts for thunderbolt
Anything but genuine GM is a crapshoot. You haven’t watched enough of my videos to know that aftermarket modules fail on a regular basis. Also, do you really think a $20 Chinese made module knockoff is going to work reliably? You get what you pay for.
@@moccasinmarine great, found one on rock auto genuine delco, did not know I could get original
I also saw that one. It’s also listed on eBay and finditparts.com. I didn’t buy it because it doesn’t look genuine GM. What happens is someone buys the GM module, swaps in a knockoff, returns it for a refund, and RockAuto not having humans just sells it again as GM. The giveaway is the chrome screw holes. GM doesn’t use chrome screw holes on any modules I’ve ever seen.
Hello,
How can I tell what EST distributor I have? Instructions with reman engines told me to set at 10 degrees before top dead center.
What size engine do you have? How many spark plug towers are on the distributor? If there are 8 towers and you have a 305 V8, then 10 degrees is correct per the charts at the end of part 6.
@@moccasinmarine
Hello, it’s a 4.3 vortex V6 GM
Hello, it’s 4.3 L vortec remains w/4 barrel carburetors they said the rated horsepower is 225 HP.
The instructions said The timing is set at 10° before top dead center. Both engines have EST ignition systems.
Is there a identification number on the module? And what number should it be.
The part number in Volvo Penta is 3854003. You can try and cross reference this number for the GM equivalent on Google. You should use the charts in my video. 10 degrees is too much and will damage your engine. I’m a little lost on what you are doing. If you are running the Thunderbolt ignition set it to what your owners manual says. If you upgraded to the Delco EST Ignition set it to the chart in my video.
interesting theory on the dwell being used. the difference between a 4 and a v8 would be double so seeong 5000 rpm vs 2500 or 10000 makes sense but the v6 in the middle????....
It has to be something in the shape of the curve. A V8 sine wave is going to have steeper slopes between peaks because there are 4 peaks instead of 3 or 2 in any given time period. It’s not using total pulses per time period because that’s RPM dependent. It has to be a unique characteristic of each distributor size. One day when I’ve got nothing else to do I’ll try and find out what it is. Don’t hold your breath though.