Doing Dry Pour Concrete DOES ACTUALLY WORK?
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Oh, you came just in time to watch this video!
Do you think dry pour concrete actually works? In this VIDEO, we'll find out for sure!Dry pour concrete is a popular technique for creating concrete surfaces that are water resistant and durable. In this experiment, we'll test the theory that dry pour concrete actually works. Will a little bit of water be able to transform dry pour concrete into a regular poured concrete surface? Watch and find out!
credits:
Editor: @2dee69
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I saw in another video where the guy recommended using a 3” PVC pipe to screet or level the dry powdered concrete mix as it makes rolling over the area you are smoothing MUCH EASIER!! I did and it made a world of difference 👍🏼👌🏼🙌🏼
Thank you for the suggestion. I appreciate your support and encouragement of other peoples success with their own projects. Keep it up.
I batched and drove mixer trucks for a large concrete concrete company for 4 years. Dry pouring does work for DIY projects because bagged cement is DESIGNED for water absorption. Be sure to wet the ground before you dump dry cement. However when you have to build to code mixing concrete is the best for strength and proper finishing. Have fun. ❤
Thank you for your excellent comment. I am planning a follow up video with an industry expert to answer many of the questions generated about dry pouring concrete. Your brilliant comment about bagged concrete and how it is chemically designed for water absorption is one of the areas we plan to focus to help people, especially those impacted by the naysayers, understand why this process is viable option when it comes to non loading bearing slabs. Thanks you again for stopping by and providing a helpful comment.
Contrary to what we are used to with typical wet pour, DO NOT PRE-WET!!
You want the moisture to migrate down, not up. First and most important thing you need to do, is forget everything you know about doing regular wet mix concrete.
Dry sour is bs.
@@professorg8383 depends on how hot the day is.
@@arguswil No, that would be the case with wet pour but not dry pour.
With wet pour you don't want the dry ground pulling water out of the wet mix as it will start to cure prematurely. But with dry pour you want the mix dry on the bottom and let the waterings be absorbed from the top down. If the ground is wet, moisture will be drawn up. That is exactly what you don't want. You want the mix completely dry until the water get absorbed down to it. When the water dies get down to the bottom, it is at optimum absorption to start curing, And dry ground will not pull water out to below optimum.
Cement is highly hygroscopic. It will pull water out of the air. You don't want it pulling it from the ground as it will wet the bottom prematurely.
Dry pour ends up using the minimum required water, much like a very dry mix. This makes for the strongest cure.
With wet pour you want to keep some moisture for finishing. But with dry pour the "finishing" is down before you hit it with a drop of water. Never take a trowel to dry pour, you will screw it up.
This is one of those things where knowledge of doing wet pour, will work against you. for the best dry pour, the first thing to do is to forget everything you know about wet pour!! Dry pour works almost completely opposite. A lot of concrete pros screw up dry pour because they can't clear their brains of what they learned about wet pour. It doesn't seem right to them so they keep trying to "fix it", but that just screws it up! Being used to ding wet pour is a handicap doing dry pour.
In the end you have a slab with the optimum water content but how you get there is entirely different. I have watched many dry pour fail videos and in every case the fail us because they try to treat it like wet pour,
You want dry ground for dry pour. If the ground is damp, you ill get better results putting some plastic down! I know this seems counter intuitive, but that's because your brain is wired by what you learned through experience.
Wet pour works from the bottom up with finishing being the final step. But dry pour works from the top down, the final step is watering, and once you start, it is 100% hands off the slab. Yu don't touch it again for a couple days when you take the forms off. In dry pour, all the work happens before adding water but the great part is that it is not time critical. Watering needs to follow a strict schedule, buy it is easy. The key to watering is to add water slowly allowing water to slowly be absorbed from the top down. Each watering step uses very little water and you ant to avoid getting the surface so wet that water starts to collect, if it's that wet you put too much water on.
Complete rookies often do better because thy follow the instructions exactly, never even thinking they know better,
Well done it looks good. Also I like the fact that you have gone with a thicker slab as compared to some of the other dry pours I have seen.
Man that's beautiful. I just did this in front of my house. I made a 3 slab step walkway. It came out fine but I need to put a top on it. Thank you for telling the truth about dry pour and how it's fine for small DIY projects. I'm on oxygen 24 hours a day. While it was not easy it was doable! Looking forward to more vids
Awesome news about your walkway. I am so glad you heard and understood my message clearly regarding dry pour concrete. Thank you for tuning in and I am excited to take this journey with you.
Love seeing this done by regular folks. Maybe the concrete guys will start charging reasonable prices know that they have us as competition.
Concrete guys, except me, generally go mad when they see someone talking about dry pour. I am hoping to post another video discussing the basic science behind concrete and why dry pours do work when done in a proven manner.
That's why there's DUI if you need to save money you do the work lol. Companies have more than your project to worry about covering in order to actually be a company
I will definitely be doing this for my 6x6 patio. Thanks!
Have fun! Let me know how it turns out.
Now, this is one of the funniest things that has happened to me on RUclips....I was watching this video and thought to myself, "I recognize this guy...JUSTIN!" Nice to see you, buddy. We should catch up sometime.
Great video! My neighbor showed me this and then we dry poured a 12' x 14' pad @6 inches thick for a pergola. I purchased 120 80lb bags and returned 10 of them. It was a LONG day!
That is awesome! Thank you for sharing. I bet it was a long day, but well worth the effort.
Being so think how many times did you mist and wet? Did you have to worry about psi for local codes?
Perfect timing. I'm getting ready to do dry pour!
Be sure to watch the video by Cajun country livin. Their video was where I got my inspiration. I deviated slightly from their technique as I was planning to use a surface product to visually make my 3 separate pours look like one.
nice finish, good idea with the self levelling topper
Thanks 👍
Great Video! I worked Mud for almost a decade and have a couple small projects that will be dry pour. It seems that a little vibration along the forms (before wetting) could help with some of the issues that folks have. I like the use of topper to level-out and smooth the finish. Since my pads will be about 3x3 I plan on spraying with Thompsons or similar after the first 24 hours. Thanks for the show! (Dave W / PHX)
I made a vibratory screed, much like what you can buy to finish et concrete. But in dry pour, you use it on the dry concrete before you wet it. What this does well dry is to help push the aggregate down and cause cement and fines to rise up. Then use a dry paint roller o evenly smooth out the fines. Then start the misting process. I mist about once every 30 minutes as the water migrates down about 3/4 of an inch before slowing and stopping absorption, Then mist again and wait another 30 minutes and repeat. You do one misting for each 1/2 inch of slab.
I have tested this in clear plastic forms and you can observe the water migrate down. The rate that the water gets absorbed is amazingly consistent and predictable. Once the slab is fully absorbed a bit extra water will not hurt, It's already beginning to cure.
With wet mix concrete, you get the strongest slab with the minimum amount of water. But it is harder to work. That's not an issue with dry pour.
Using the power screed followed up with the roller, produces a very nice finish that looks pretty comparable to wet finished, but it is not slick and has a vert nice minimal roughness to it. Better than a broom finish but won't become slick with water, like a super slick finish. It is comparable to an etched surface and if you want to later apply a sealer or even paint, you will get a very good bond.
Justin, I totally agree with you on the partner assist screening. My slap was a very large slap about as large as yours. So, by myself Screening, I did it in sections (4' x 12' (5 sections) [section 6 6'x12' 10:15 ] adding wire for the hot tub placement. Just to pour about 6 weeks.
I do have a few areas to touch up, then, it would be painted as well.
Yours looks good!
You did a great job! 🎉
Thank you!! 😊. I appreciate the visit and your kind words of encouragement. It means a lot coming from a couple of "OG's" in the world of dry pour. Thank you for leading the way and being courageous enough to go against the grain. Keep up the amazing videos.
Loved this video as a women who is fascinated by concrete 😂 it seemed that your profession caused you to use the best of everything and it seemed to be more work. Great video... ❣ Thumbs way up!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Same here, I (lady) did two dry pours last year and they worked out great . I could watch these videos all day long 🤦🏼♀️🤣🤣
Doing my 8 x 8 tomorrow. Home Depot delivering a skid of bagd. I like that newcrete idea although I'm putting a shed over it so probably unessessary. Thanks
Sounds great! Let me know how it turns out.
Excellent, adds a lot to the data. Being in construction, would you have experience with the testing tools and methods used for concrete to measure the compressive strength? It sure would be interesting to see how strong it would cure compared to a slab done the "traditional" wet mix way.
I agree. It would be interesting to see the strength of a dry pour concrete compared to a traditional wet pour. I personally don’t have the ability to measure the PSI strength.
That would be difficult as the only way to get the actual compressive strength of that slab would be to drill a core. Non-destructive testing (Schmidts Hammer or Windsor Probe) are not designed for this type of concrete (or for finished flatwork in general). I would bet the compressive strength or surface durability will not even approach that of the same properly mixed concrete, and forget about even getting uniform strength throughout the slab thickness. Hopefully this is in a non-freeze\thaw environment as one winter would disintegrate this mess.
Solid job. 10/10 DIY approved
Thanks!
Great video and insight!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. How many bags of sacrete and what poundage did you use?
60 bags of 80lb concrete.
I would like to see how this holds up in 5years, or even 2.
That’s amazing 🔥🔥
So when you say nothing structural would that include a 10x10' shed? you think it could handle it?
In my opinion, I believe it would be able to hold the shed.
Wow Looks Amazing. How big was the pad?
Thank you. The dry pour slab is 11’ x 12’.
Would it stand up to the weight of car or boat under a carport anchored to ground?
Building codes require a wet pour for the application you stated. In theory, dry pour could work but there too are many “potential” points of failure in the dry pouring method that don’t warrant the effort and cost for a driveway, in my opinion.
How many bags did you use? If u mentioned it I most have over looked
@@jamiemc7760 It has been a year and a half since I did this dry pour, but if memory serves, I used 60 bags.
Looks great!😁👍
Thank you.
Maybe I missed it, but I always like to hear the total cost of the project.
The total cost was about $640.
@@justintimevlogs2492 thanks for your reply.
How would you feel about anchoring a pergola in a dry pour?
Good question. Simple answer, I am not sure I would. If you were to try it then please be sure to make your slab 4" thick and allow the slab to cure for a least a month, if not longer, to fully cure. Also, I assume you are talking about the pergola's one can buy at the big box stores.
Michael Build successfully used anchors on a sill plate with a dry pour. I agree, with the OP on all points for best results.
You get a better mass strength when it's closer to the dry side. Everyone probably would if they never needed to get it done fast
Looks great!!!❤
Thank you!!
How big was the pad and how many bags of concrete did you use?
The pad is 11’x 12’ and I used 60 bags.
@@justintimevlogs2492 60 - 80lb bags?
80lb bags
From a novice in northern NYS:
Great vid. I’ll have to watch it again to make sure I can actually do this.
The questions I have are :
If you would have wet poured it would you have been using the same amount of bags?
And what kind of paint did you use.
Thank you again for posting
Good luck in your future DIYs.
God Bless
@@fredr.5723 At 3.5" thick a 11'x12' pad would need 64-80lb bags. So I'm guessing the thickness was a little bit less. I'm shocked, I figured mixed concrete would have expanded or something.
Hi, Thanks for the great videos!!! I have a question. I am setting a couple of 4x4 posts in concrete this weekend for an addition to my roofed patio. I am wondering how it's possible for the concrete to stick to the posts, because when I use wood as a form to mold concrete, it doesn't stick hardly at all and comes off easily. Do I need to prime the pressure-treated wood before setting it in the concrete? Thanks!!
First of all, concrete is not an adhesive. I do promise you though that whatever you stick inside of it will not come out easily once it fully cures. There is no need to do any additional treatment to the pressure treated wood. It is advisable to make a small rebar cage around your 4" x 4" post, so the concrete will have more strength to hold the post as the weight of the roof will create tension. I encourage you to continue to do your research on best practices before this weekend. I wish you the best and thanking you for the opportunity to chat with you.
How do you account for a slope for water drainage with dry pour?
You account for the slope with your frame. Had I planned to film this dry pour from the beginning, you would have seen me using a long 2" x 4" with a 7' level to make sure there is a pitch from one side of the frame to the other.
@justintimevlogs2492 excellent thanks for the comment. Me and the MRS are planning to do a 12x12 slab with a walkway. Just to put some lawn furniture and a medium weight gazebo and do not want water puddling. CHEERS!!
use 75% bag mix and then 25% Morter and you will get a smooth finish and less cost then a self level.
Thank you for the helpful advice.
The dry pour does not seem to have smooth finish, so you can actually make it smooth with the New Crete or the self-leveling concrete? What is that self-leveling concrete called? Great job, looking fantastic!
Thank you for your comment. I do believe with more experience a smooth finish is possible. As this was my first experience, I had a learning curve. To level out the areas needed, I used a product called LevelQuick RS which can be purchased at Home Depot. After the self leveling product dried I used New Crete to create a nicer finished look.
Do you think a 4" dry pour slab is strong enough to park a golf cart on? ( has a lithium battery so it's much lighter than one with lead acid batteries)
In my opinion, I do believe a 4" dry pour slab would be strong enough for a golf cart. I am doing a video now on a driveway addition I am doing for our golf cart.
Curious on your thoughts, would a dry pour hold the weight of a hottub? Thanks!
In my opinion, I do believe a 4" dry pour slab given enough time to fully cure could hold a basic size hot tub.
How many bags of concrete did you use for that square footage
60 80lb bags
Can you tell me how long you watered it? Until it puddled on top and was no longer being absorbed? And all at once? Being a concrete newbie I'm concerned about how much water to use, as the more you use the weaker the concrete. But then again, you have to have some reliance that the water is getting to the bottom. Thanks!
Great question. For me, I did not need a lot of water from the top. I made sure to water the ground before I started so the lower parts of the slab would wick up the moisture from the ground. Also, when using bags of concrete the moisture in the air helps in wetting the concrete. I have a video coming out soon discussing this process with an industry expert. I did give my slab about 5 minutes of watering, which I explain in the video. Yes, there was some puddling. I did come back out about 2 hours later and watered the slab again in the same manner. I wish you all the best and thank you for your question.
We just did this last weekend using the same concrete brand & mesh you did. The sifting was definitely the hardest. Hubby & I got frustrated with each other for a bit cuz of it lol. We did decide to buy some cement mix that was powder only because we were getting frustrated that some rocks were still showing. That worked but, it was a different brand so now our slab is 2 different colors 😢. I want to stain it but not sure how long we should wait before we do it.
Great job! I totally understand how you and the hubby were a bit frustrated. Happens with me and my wife too. I am glad to read you overcame the rock problem. So regarding the staining of the concrete, I would suggest waiting 30 days so the concrete can fully cure. Since dry pouring is a new there aren’t any set standards, but based on what I have learned and some basic common sense is how I am providing this advice. Keep us updated on your progress.
Hey try concrete paint! I did several dry pours and used black concrete paint and it turned out great!
I had the very same issue. Rocks showing and a rough surface. And three salesman footprints in it, of all days to come to my house. I am going to need to cover mine as well.
If you want to cap that with an actual durable finish that might make it last you're looking for a product called cement-all. Make small batches and skim the surface. It cures very fast. It would likely save it's durability it's so strong.
I have never done it that way but I am sure it would work too. As per how I was trained, I typically use cement all for cracks in a slab and then top it with New Crete. There is a great video sponsored by RapidSet that shows this process. ruclips.net/video/ybtEKpoCWEs/видео.html
When you using
the long bord telt it as you level it up. It goes fast try it.
Thank you for the helpful suggestion.
Do you need gravel... How much to dig?
I did dig out about 2” so I could have a 4” slab through out. I then wet the dirt and used a handheld compactor to make sure the ground was solid. I then poured the bags on top of the compacted dirt. So, no gravel.
@justintimevlogs2492 I'm in the pac nw Oregon where it rains quite a bit does it matter???
Did you cover it with New Crete or Cement All? You showed one product and said you did it with the other.
I apologize for the confusion. I used New Crete for the final finish on top.
Would large rock salt work on this for texture?
You could but I am not sure if I would. It seems like a temporary solution without a smoother finish, which more common.
You used a self leveling concrete and then new Crete on top of that. If the screed work was better up front would you have skipped the self leveling and just used the New Crete for the smooth top finish? And then you painted over the New Crete with paint for concrete? Or is the New Crete the paint or coloring product? Thank you, I just did my first one and it came out rougher than I want and not the color that I want so I'm trying to fix it.
You are correct. I wouldn’t have used the self leveling product had I done a better job screeding. I would have gone straight to the New Crete to provide a nice finish and blend it into the other two slabs. After the New Crete cured I painted it with Heavy Shield from Sherwin Williams. It is a concrete paint/stain. I wish you all the best. Thank you for sharing your experience.
I want to do a dry pour in 6x6 sections. I also want to put pavers over them before I start with the water. I also want to build a pergola on top and I'm thinking I need some forms to go down deeper than my forms for the 6x6. sections. I was thinking about doing 14 by 14 oergona on top with 5x5 posts. I would use 6. I think the high strength concrete will work in a dry pour.
Thank you for sharing. Everything you mention seems viable. I’m not sure about the pavers because of my lack of experience with them, but the rest seems on track. I have since added a roof structure over my patio and when drilling to install the 4” x 4” metal brackets there was no break away or crumbling, which I did have some concern about happening with the dry pour method. Also, to further clarify, these posts were placed on the corners.
As I am now reaching a year since the the dry pour I have come to believe in this method more. Actually, I am sitting at a table on top of the dry pour in the video as I am writing this response. Bottom line. I am glad I dared to try this method. This patio has brought me and my family much joy. I wish you all the best.
@@justintimevlogs2492 My sections turned out to be about 3x8ft I layed down like a grid. each 3x8 is further divided with two 2x4s in the center creating a channel to match the other channels. So I thinking I am going to do the wet pour on the corners and dry in all the other sections. Will the wet and dry look the same?
There will probably be different shading in the wet concrete. I had this happen on a job site once. One truck mixed slightly different than the other and we were left with two different shades. Frustrating when you tell them ahead of time the mixes need to the same.
What color and what product you use for painting looks amazing?!
The product I used is Sherwin Williams Heavy Shield and the color is called Basket Beige.
You resurfaced your dry poor slab to get a smooth finish. What product did you use and how difficult c was it to prep the slab for resurfacing?
I explain in the video what used (New Crete). Since the concrete is new there wasn’t any prep needed. I did use self leveling cement prior to the New Crete since my screeding job was not what not that great. I will post a link to a great video demonstrating how to use the product.
ruclips.net/video/ybtEKpoCWEs/видео.html
Seeing as how I am forced to work alone. My screeding sucks as well. Thanks for the informative.
Zones North south east west . the way the ground moves in Missouri , Arkansas ,Tennessee ,Kentucky wet and rebar , fallow code in your area.
This unconventional technique is not for everyone or every situation. But let’s all be real, even wet pours have their limitations too.
Big Thanks!!!
You're welcome!
When you sprayed just the top, how did the water reach all of the powder concrete? I am wanting to pour about a 4 inch pad and can't understand how that water is going to go all the way depth wise. Any info is appreciated.
Great question. I don’t have a definitive answer for you as I am learning with the others who are using and experimenting with this technique. I can tell you that I wet the ground before pouring out the concrete so the water would be absorbed from below. I do plan on doing a follow up video in a couple of months, which I know is no help to you now. Thank you again for asking a great question.
It doesn't. The capillary action of the cement draws moisture from the ground.
If dry pour requires more bags than regular wet cement pour?
No, the amount of bags should be the same or very close to the same.
This is beautiful ❤
Thank you
@@justintimevlogs2492
You're welcome
What is the cost differences from a truck pre mix to bags?
I don’t know the cost difference but it is generally more expensive in the bag.
I also want to do some dry pour jobs,but i will admit im worried about the freeze thaw cycles in indiana, what you did looks great amd i would like to achieve the same look, whats your opinion on it breakin up come winter
Bruce, thank you for reaching out. I understand your concern about the freeze thaw cycles but unfortunately I am not experienced enough to answer said question, as I have lived in Florida my entire life. I know a very smart guy, regarding concrete,who used to work with me and he lived in Virginia for many years. I will contact him and see what he advises and get back with you.
@@justintimevlogs2492 awesome thank you for looking into this issue a little further, I greatly appreciate all the knowledge I can attain
@@brucehall8570 There is actually 4 or 5 videos from people who lives in cold climate and have tried this method. You can search for it and decided if you want to try it. One lives in minnesota and is a good friend of Cajun. I also saw and read somewhere that it works. Good luck!
Thank you Luke for the info. I so appreciate thoughtful and helpful people.
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
What size is the frame ???? Length and width please
I mention the exact size in the video. It has been a year since this project and I don’t recall the exact dimensions.
I may have missed it but how many bags did you use and what are the dimensions of your slab?
I used 60 80lb bags. The slab is approximately 11” x 12” with a 4” thickness.
Question - would this method work for an above ground pool?
Not exactly sure what you mean. Please give me a few more details of what you are thinking. I want to make sure I fully understand your intentions so I may give you the proper advice.
Give these dry pours a few years of heavy rains on them and watch them crumble. If you live in cold climates where you have frost heaves every spring these will crack and crumble. Very few pros and alot of cons to dry pours.
Heavy rains??? The more moisture these get the harder they cure. The only way frost will crack them is the same as a wet pour. Poor base and no drainage and ALL concrete will crack. Do you have extensive evidence that a well done dry pour won't hold up "in rain" or frost.Doubtful.
I will stay in my lane and not comment regarding the Northern climates but for those of us that live in warmer climates, a well executed dry or wet pour will last for years. And yes some will develop cracks regardless of being wet or dry.
How much did the materials cost you to do the slab?
The total cost for materials was about $640.
My wife and I just finished a 20x15 slab we did 12 5x5 slabs took us a month we are retired so was in no hurry. The hard part was ground prep,we did shovel , pickaxe, and wheelbarrow. It came out great. Our slabs are 3.5 in thick used 12 bags per slab.
Yes, ground prep is tough. Since I did not decide to video my project until after I started, I don’t have video of my ground prep but it was a couple of evenings after work. Shovel, wheelbarrow, sweat, and Frank Sinatra in the background. The music helped me envision friends and family enjoying themselves, rather than focusing on, “What did I get myself into?”.
@@justintimevlogs2492 I also watered ground used 6 bags sack Crete on bottom 6 bags of quick Crete on top along with a little sand topping on final screen also used wire mesh we just finished Monday. so probably spend rest of month doing dirt work you did a nice video useful information thanks 👍
Interesting formula. How did you decide to do it the way you did? I haven’t heard of anyone doing the way you did?
@@justintimevlogs2492 I have a minivan 6 bags is what's comfortable to haul. The lumber yard in our town is 3 blocks away they sell sack Crete the other lumber yard in the town we do most of our shopping 20 miles sells quick Crete. Nothing really special but the first one we did was. Quick Crete I noticed the sack Crete was a little different color and bigger gravel so wanted to keep quick Crete on top I watched another video were used a little sand topping mix to smooth it out. Works well I would be happy to send pictures if interested.
This is what I am tackling on my own. A 10’x15’ in 5’x5’ sections. I laid my first down a couple of weeks ago. My first bubbled so I ended up patching it. I’mstill thrilled with it compared to the dirt. Did you lay any wire reinforcements or rebar to connect the slabs? .I plan on butting them up against each other instead of leaving gaps. And scoring a relief joint but concerned if they are connected of shifting and cracks he and wondering if I should use rebar dowels connecting the east of them
I really enjoyed your video you said it was 11’x 12’
It looks a lot bigger in the end what did you do pour against a preexisting slab
The barbecue grill behind you for to six feet of space and then a huge sofa with lots of room
Anyway I enjoyed the video
Thanks so much
Thank you for your comment. Yes, the dry pour slab is a part of two other slabs previously poured (1 was poured 15 years ago and the 2nd was poured 1.5 years ago).
Why dry pour ?
For DIYERS it is a viable option.
Looks neat, but I’d rather just use a small concrete mixer and do it that way to save money.
A small mixer would work also. The only challenge for some is getting the mixer to their home and being able to use it in short time, so as not to pay high rental prices. To each their own.
I get it…. At 4”, you’d need 80 plus bags and that would take around 4h of mixing….. it looks great man… nice works🎉🎉🎉
How many bags
About 60 bags
Cost of material?
Great question. I spent $425 for the concrete (60 bags). I spent $225 to fix my bad screeding job. The wood for the form was leftover from other projects.
@@justintimevlogs2492 that is awesome. Wish i knew this before getting pavers
@@justintimevlogs2492 how much is the cost of 1/2 truck of pre mix delivered in your area?
I don’t know
Isn't it much cheaper to order wet concrete in bulk?
Yes, bulk is cheaper but what is your point? This was a small project.
@@justintimevlogs2492For my 24 SQM project I calculated 120 bags of concrete needed at AU$10 a bag would be AU$1200. The wet concrete would have been $AU400. The labour of each method is to be considered. The size of the job too. I considered the labour and said bugger it, I won't do either.
🔥🔥🔥
If you had just did it the right way In the beginning, you wouldn't have had to fix all those problems. It is going to crack overtime.
Thank you for expressing your opinion kindly.
The point of the video was about dry pour and seeing if it is a viable option for DIYERS. The other two slabs next to the dry pour slab were poured in the traditional manner. Also, without factual data we need to be careful what we express, as traditional poured slabs crack too. So in summary, if a person follows best practices for a dry pour as one should for a wet pour, there is a good chance the slab will be fine. As stated in the video, these slabs our not for structural building. The dry pour slabs are for the simple uses of concrete, i. e. slab in front of shed, short entryways, barbecue, etc.
Once a dry pour cures, it's not simply going to turn to weaken with age. Somehow I doubt you have monitored dry pours over the long haul, so on what basis do you state it would it crack over time--any more that a wet pour might?
Why not cut back those low laying plants on the right?
Good question. The landscaping on the right helps to block some irrigation pipes and also a natural gas meter.
Do you think your pour would be strong enough to drive a car across? 4" seems like it should.
Great question. I believe it possibly could because of the way I prepped and executed my dry pour, but I would NOT recommend anyone use dry pour for a driveway. I would recommend and still do wet pour concrete for driveways.
I have seen quite a few dry pour slabs and they all look like crap. Does it work? That's not the only question. Does it save time? Does it save money? In your case it did not save time or money. I don't care how well you screed it, or paint roll it, it's going to leave a rough finish. If you are going to tile the surface then the finish doesn't matter but does dry pour save you anything? Or make anything easier? It sure doesn't look like it to me.
Yes, you have seen a few, but not all dry pours are bad, plus many of the people posting videos about dry pouring are DIYers. If they did a wet pour video, it too would probably not look that good.
Did I save time? Well, not that much, as it took a little less time compared to the wet pour I did last year, but it wasn’t about time saving as it is about cost savings. Compared to a professional company, a person can save a minimum of $1,400 on a slab the same size as mine. I understand you don’t believe in the process but there are benefits to a dry pour, and yes screeding followed by brooming does make a difference. I assume you have never worked with concrete or you would not have made such a comment.
Thank you for asking valid questions about why anyone would try something different, like a dry pour.
@@justintimevlogs2492 Advantage also is less steps and less work.
@@justintimevlogs2492 Excellent retort. Wet or dry, if you've never done it before, it maybe cosmetically not up to standards. The key here is $1400 savings.
@@justintimevlogs2492 savage reply was very necessary lol.
@@justintimevlogs2492 It would not have cost you one dime more to mix it with water and then pour it. Then you would have been able to get a nice finish. Not sure what you mean by blooming unless you are referring to lime blooming. Anyway, I have poured hundreds of yards of concrete over my long career in the building trades. The only time I have ever seen dry pour is in a hot mop shower pan. The concrete is covered in tar so you never see it.
next time ya should use a pvc pipe for screeting roll easy almost painting constistancey rolls instead of drag ...allows some mixing action during roll. i got some crapy qwickcrete i like more powder to what i need i did dry side walk no frame but luckily i can do finer crete paint toper . for the edges..ya gota be carefull to get some actual powder in ya rocks other wise it sucks for the stuff i got.
Thank you for the tip.
For those concerned about the water getting all the way through, with no dry spots at all, couldn't you do the bottom 2 inches first, give it a good spray and then add the top 2 inches right away , and spray again when done ? Just wondering , would that work as well ?
John I believe another couple did there dry pour in that manner. You could only use that method with smaller slabs. If memory serves me correct, I believe they did 5’ x 5’ slabs.
That's not recommended. The water will spread upward quickly. If you're working a large area some of it will start to harden before you get to the step of screeding.
Awesome🥰
Thanks 🤗
Dry pour is NOT a good way to do concrete and will NOT last as long as properly mixed concrete. Its a literal waste of time and will crumble easily later. LAziness is all it is.
Thank you for taking the time to provide your opinion. First of all, you are correct to say that traditional water-mixed wet pour is the optimal method.
However, please keep in mind that this video was geared towards DIYers, many of whom lack either the skillset or the financial resources to do a traditional pour. For them, I would suggest that dry pour is a viable option for doing simple slabs, and not a “waste of time” at all.
As far as durability is concerned, I’m aware of dry-pour slabs that are more than 20 years old, and have yet to crumble, easily or otherwise. This suggests that in certain cases, dry pour can be a comparatively easy and cost-effective solution, and to dismiss it out of hand is, in fact, rhetorical laziness.
Thank you again for your time.
Laziness?? I don't see this guy being lazy... even he gave you an explanation that you do not even deserve!!
Where are the expansion joints?
Thank you for taking the time to provide your opinion. First of all, you are correct to say that traditional water-mixed wet pour is the optimal method.
However, please keep in mind that this video was geared towards DIYers, many of whom lack either the skillset or the financial resources to do a traditional pour. For them, I would suggest that dry pour is a viable option for doing simple slabs, and not a “waste of time” at all.
As far as durability is concerned, I’m aware of dry-pour slabs that are more than 20 years old, and have yet to crumble, easily or otherwise. This suggests that in certain cases, dry pour can be a comparatively easy and cost-effective solution, and to dismiss it out of hand is, in fact, rhetorical laziness.
Thank you again for your time.
@@justintimevlogs2492 I think this response was intended for someone else. I just asked about expansion joints. A slab of that size will usually require EJ.
@@robcschweitzeryou are correct. I apologize this response went to the wrong comment. I must confess I am still new to dealing with RUclips as a content provider. The backend mechanics are sometimes confusing.
I apologize for the delayed response. There are two joints where the 3 slabs join, which were cut after the filming of the video.
It’s quick and easy but I feel like people who do this will regret it 6 or 7 years down the road.
Please explain why? If you feel that way. So we can at least understand. You must have a reason your saying that. Thank you.
@@MrSteelermaniac it doesn’t dry evenly, so you’ll get different layers of hardness and weak spots. It could work, but I bet you’ll see issues down the road. An even consistency is always better imo.
Well they have had people cut them in half, drill them, run them over with various vehicles, and bust them up. All compared to wet and if done properly there was no difference
@@aundorlyes...if done properly.
@jcberb Yes, if you follow all the directions for doing a dry pour. Screed back and forth until no rocks are showing. Use a roller to even out surface. Mist wait an hour. Mist wait an hour, then water every hour for 2 hours per inch of thickness.
Tell us about the longevity and corner strength of a dry pour pad. How many years of testing have you done.
Darrin, dry pour is relatively new in its popularity. I don’t believe anyone can answer your question with certainty. For this reason I tried it and so are many others. Also, for this reason I personally would not use this method for anything structural.
A lot of work and time spent making it half way decent. Would have taken less time to mix and pour like the instructions say on the back of the bag.
The time was approximately the same as a wet pour and half way decent end result is your opinion. Guest and clients have found our finished product comparable to any traditional wet pour. Just accept the fact that dry pour is just as good as a wet pour for small home projects. You don't have to believe it, but it is still true.
It's good enough because no vehicle is not be on it.
Next time use a paint roller to smooth out your screeding job.
Thank you
@@justintimevlogs2492 any time
I have a cement area in my backyard that I would like to expand to make a complete rectangle and put a patio over the whole thing. Does that count as a structure that wouldn't be good for a dry pour?
Great question. I assume you mean a roof type structure. If possible please provide me a little bit more information of your plans so I can provide you good counsel.
@@justintimevlogs2492 do you have an email so I can send pictures? I do not know how else to explain it
My email is JustinTimeVlogs21@gmail.com
Awesome job, came out great for a one man job👍🏽 Quick question though, what color paint did you use to paint to unify the slabs?
Thank you for your kinds words. The product I used is Sherwin Williams Heavy Shield and the color is called Basket Beige.
EXELENTE 😊
Muchas Gracias
Have you driven on it yet? :)
My slab is not meant for a car and I personally would not recommend dry pour for a car. Our dry pour slab is meant for foot traffic only.
Agreed... but this is a different product than I've seen used and since you are familiar with it, I wanted your opinion. I may replace my deck with a patio. What are your thoughts on epoxy?
Depends. I do like epoxy but have not used it on a concrete slab. I personally have only used it on counter tops. After much research, I have only used and would only use a product from Leggari Products (leggari.com). Great company and a great product.
🤔 Do you think a dry pour could hold a pool?
I do not have enough experience with dry pour to a comment. My only thought is that a traditional wet pour might be a better way to go for the time and money. My personal believe, at this time, is that dry pours are most effective for small home projects.
You seem like a good guy- just need more confidence and you’ll be great.
Thank you for your kind words and encouragement. By the way, I am a good guy. :)
Wow
Thank you
It’s been a year. Show us it hasn’t cracked.
Dry Pour works just fine to BUILD with it just wont last as long
as wet pour. You will be replacing it all in a few years.
!
Based on what facts. I have personally seen dry pours last longer than fives years. Bottom line, a well executed dry or wet pour will last for years.
I tried this out in the rain. Do not recommend.
I applaud your attempt. Working with concrete in the rain is a not advisable ever. A traditional wet poor in the rain will go wrong too.
Don't need the music,distracted from all u said
Thank you for watching. I will make the video editor aware of your suggestion.
*Question:* With a dry pour it seems less water is used so am I right in assuming the slab would weigh less?
The dry pour slab will weigh the same as a wet pour slab once the concrete is fully cured.