Have you experimented with soil cement? Years ago I had a small shed with a dirt floor and decided to just till cement into it and add water. A little mixing and leveling and I had a floor that still had not cracked when I moved six years later.
Tyler Ley, who is material scientist focused on concrete, has recently done a video testing dry vs wet pour. worth the watch, but the short bit is: in some applications dry pour is okay, just like Michael is saying; dry pour has about 30% of the PSI rating compared to wet pour; and dry pour does not addhear properly to rebar. I was thinking about doing a dry pour pad for my car, but I am pretty sure jack stands would exceed the PSI rating, thus making it more dangerous than the packed gravel currently is.
I’ve done 3 sidewalks dry pour and the last one I did had the same single surface pop issue you had. Not a big deal and I can fix them with methods you showed in other videos. Overall I’m very pleased with the outcome. They sit right next to professionally done concrete and probably look better than what I paid someone to do wet.
"Really don't care" Typical response to any pothole in the world today Otherwise - another genius video from my all time favorite builder channel Thanx again for a great, educational and entertaining 11/12 minutes
I LOVE IT. I DID NOTICE THAT YOU WATERING DIDNT REACH THE BACK OF THE WALKWAY AS CONSISTENTLY AS THE OTHER AREAS. THINKING THAT MAY HAVE PLAYED A PART IN THE CHIPPING
Regarding the misting/wait/misting/wait/flooding sequence, has anyone tried to just set a mist nozzle(s) for the entire watering process? As I understand it, misting is only required to keep the surface intact until dry. However, if you simply just start misting for a few hours, it wouldn't disturb the surface, but drench the entire thing all in one go. Not giving it time to form a crust, which is more prone to being broken off. I'm sure if anyone would be willing to give this a shot, Michael would be my first choice.
I had a spot in my gravel driveway that kept washing out due to runoff from my barn's cement pad at the top of the hill. I ran across dry pouring concrete and decided to give it a shot. I didn't put in a form or anything. They had put tar and gravel down on my road so the end of my driveway was full of the perfect base for the dry pour and to allow water to flow through beneath the cement. I filled the wash with the gravel to get it mostly level, then I took 4 bags of concrete(Menards brand because it's the closest and cheapest to me) and poured it over the gravel and raked it smooth. I wanted it left with some texture since I'm in Michigan and my driveway is an incline and didn't want a slick ice spot in the middle of where I drive. I looked at how much water should be used per bag and multiplied it times 4. I put that much in my hand pump garden sprayer. I misted the entire thing and re-misted every 15-20 minutes until I was out of water. I then covered it with a tarp for 3 days before removing it. It has held up the past two winters without cracking at all. There's not a smooth crust since I wanted the slightly rocky texture, but nothing has popped off of it anywhere. I've been considering trying a real sidewalk dry pour as I want to extend the sidewalk by my house a few feet farther. I'm not sure if it's worth pouring considering I'd have to buy material for a form and a trowel for the edges or just buy a few pavers and go with those.
I’ve been wondering the same thing. Been planning a new fire pit area, might need to do some tests before where it’s just misted non stop and test how long that would take to fully saturate say a three inch dry pour.
I'm thinking if you tamp down and settle the dry mix. You would get a denser concrete and would end up without those settling bubbles when you do the hard shell misting. Probably a denser slab too.
I am new to you. For years, I have watched cement artists on the internet. Have tried my hand at sculpting things from cement. They seem to have such control over their work. I have had somany fails that now I just watch. Would love to know where you found abstract tree design for your fire table. I am 70 and never stop dreaming. Just found you. Thanks for being. P.S. want to try acrylic pour. Hopefully this lifetime. ❤😅
I live in the mountains of Puerto Rico and want to pour a 8’ x8’ slab. We have upper 80s with 80%+ humidity. Do you think we need to modify the water spraying of the dry pour because of the difference in dry time?
So what happens if you start misting it as you go? so spread a few bags out wet, then add few more bags. Then full wet after last few bags go down. Have a great day. Patrick
I'm going to attempt your front of shed dry pour, without the rain, i a couple weeks, waiting on my cornea transplant ok from the doctor, damn weight limit is 10 pounds you know how low that is, sucks for my 14 yr old daughter and things i need lifted. I want a 10x6 slab to drag my small porter cable table saw out to cut on so my little tool shed stops being a saw dust catcher.
I need to do this soon. I need a pad to put my BBQ and smoker. ..... After the pad is set can it be gone over again with wet portland and stamp it? or would it crack off and chip away?
I saw on another site that started the dry pour trend that you have to pour bleach on existing pad for new concrete to adhere. Can't recall name of site.
At least one other RUclipsr has done stamping with dry pour with great success. For the top half-inch of the pour, he uses sand mix mortar. I think his name is Teddy Zane?
@@isabellavision Ill check it ot. Thank You I see a video where a guy just stocked the bags drove rebar through them then turned on the sprinkler over night on them for a wall.... Crazy
Are there any rules as to when to put in mesh or rebar into cement?? I usually forget that part. But are there any rules such as if it's 2 in deep or 3 in deep or this long or that long where you should use some type of metal reinforcement
You would use metal reinforcement when the load on top of the concrete is going to be a little more significant, or the slab is going to cover an area that spans more than a few square feet. drop the mesh or rebar in at about half the depth of your form board-then cover it but do not water it until you have all the concrete mix in there!
I absolutely want to try this method, but I'm a little lost on how to do this when my yard has a slight slope. HELP!! My yard is small and, ideally, I'd like to dry pour 4 square pads. Any thoughts and recommendations would be amazing!
The DiY argument is fair, but I'd simplify further. Yellow bags are rated to 4000 psi after 30 days. Dry-pour will be lucky to handle 2000 psi after a month (meaning fresh it's lucky to be 1000 psi concrete). What we know is dry-pour doesn't form a solid matrix and as the water is added, air is pushed out leaving fissures throughout... Because there is no mixing forming a creme to bind everything uniformly, we can skip rebar/mesh. Because it won't bond enough to give dry-mix tensile strength. And since there's no solid matrix, we can skip crack control joints. Crack control joints work in wet-mix because the joint introduces a failure point into the uniform structure, so 'forces' are attracted to that location to relieve themselves. Lastly, because the concrete if full of voids and invisible structural cracking, we can skip laying stone down for drainage, the dry-mix porosity is off the scale already.
Dry pour is a good alternative for diyer on doing concrete slabs. I myself poured 16x16 pad only for foot traffic and had amazing results no cracking or whatsoever. Not a perfect professional finish but i'll still take it compared to if i am paying a pro and paying $6k for it. Dry pouring needs a little bit of patience just water it for a month to cure that concrete and life is good.
So you show the imperfections after the build. My question couldn’t you use that resurfacer for driveways that you showed on another video to cover the imperfections?
I've had 2 dry pour slabs go thru 2 harsh winters and they haven't had any issues. One i poured right over grass to test and it hasn't heaved or cracked
NO! That vine is the riverbank grape, *Vitis* *riparia* - keep trimmin’ ‘er down to a T-shape from the main stem from the ground, and every year you may have the most delicious wild grapes you’ve ever tasted.
Love love love your channel. But I hate the music in between lol I constantly leave the volume off so I don't have to hear the music. But then I miss what you're saying.. so I leave the closed captions on. 😂
You said about the concrete getting some air under the "top crust" and losing that little bit of the top layer.... This seems to happen consistently to you. The 1 main difference between your attempts at the dry pour and the people from the Cajun County Livin' channel is that they did the paint roller and you didn't.... Could that one simple thing be whats causing it to happen to you and not them?
I watched twice trying to see if I missed you telling us the size of the walkway. Then you measured 4 feet twice so I realized it is 3 feet by 12 feet. Or, 36 square feet and probable 3 inches thick. You used 15 bags. I’m getting ready to pour a 6 by 16 foot pad so I should feel comfortable having 45 - 5 more than I will probably need - bags being more than enough to do the job. So probably a good rule of thumb would half a bag per square foot. That would be a bit heavy but it’s not like you can be short and go back to the store. Anyway, if this works out I’ll be doing more so they will get used if I have leftovers.
Ironically, your two favorite steps are my most hated. Just like you mentioned, I get tons of rocks coming to the surface and I've tried every possible screeding motion. Same for the edging, i thought it would go smoothly(ha!) but i got a lot of rocks and divots, the furthest thing from smooth. Very disappointing, especially because I'm a sculptor by trade, thought this would be easy for me! 😂 I did find a way to get a good surface by actually a series of tapping on the top of the frame with the screeding board, like a stamping motion. It kicked up enough fine powder to kind of fill in all the uneven spots and rock holes. Then I went over it all with the paint roller technique. I hope this tip can help someone else who might be struggling. Great videos, I always look forward to the new ones! 👍🏻
I've been here from the first video (and still amazed at the quality of Production for a first video), but it's time to move on from Dry Pour, I'm not watching another Dry Pour video, it's frankly garbage concrete technique that no one should be using for anything.
Ugh enough with the "dry pour" vids. Hope viewers realize these "one weird trick!"-type videos are created strictly for generating youtube engagement. Just follow the directions on the bag and mix the water in first, it's EASIER and BETTER than fiddling with all this nonsense.
Click bate.. ie Master Bater. Dry pour will never be as good as a properly mixed wet pour. In any dry pour the ingredients will stratify by weight and size, leaving portions with more aggregate and less cement or vice versa. No way around that in a dry pour. Crumble crumble…toil and trouble.
I've seen testing of dry pouring vs pre mixed. Dry pouring just crumbles apart it's a complete waist of time. You seem fairly intelligent and obviously you know your way around the internet so the question begs...... Why do your viewers this way when you know it's a bad idea?
dry pour is just stupid and a waste of time, just do it once and do it properly, so much easier to do a wet mix anyway. constant dry pour videos is getting old. how about showing a video on how to do it the right way for a change.
I get the impression your insinuating it can't be done correctly on a budget. Your obviously know how the internet works so I don't need to tell you differently if you do a little research.
@@stoneyswolf err, you do realise it costs the same either way! 😅 i assume you commented in the wrong place because your comment does not seem to relate to my comment or the reply.
@@stoneyswolf I am not insinuating anything about the cost. Don't "assume." I'm stating that for a single person to do it is difficult. You sound like you "know it all" so make the video and do a wet pour, with the same dimensions and limited room space, and prove me wrong. Prove that, as you stated, "is easier."
So the weird air-bubble crumble issue. Why not work the cement before it sets up…like the top layer of “mud” on a normal slab. Just a thought. Forgive me if this just isn’t possible and I don’t understand.
Dry pour is not worth doing yet another video on. It's been proven time and again not to be durable. I wish people would stop with this fad already. It's not good enough, it won't last, it'll need to be redone, which means it'll be more expensive in the long-term. The tools to do it right aren't expensive.
I completely agree, I really REALLY don’t understand the purpose honestly… It’s so much quicker, easier and holds up better just mixing it as intended. Pouring it dry makes a mess, has a worse finish, you have to constantly water it throughout the day and it’s ultimately more work. To do it right you can buy a $10 hoe (or use a shovel) and mix it in a wheelbarrow. Or you can buy a $4 bucket and a mixer for a drill (a drill that EVERY homeowner willing to do DIY projects already own) and mix it that way. I agree this whole fad is dumb as hell and teaching homeowners the wrong way to do things. If they cut corners as SIMPLE as “mixing” the concrete first, god knows what else they are attempting in the rest of their home. 😂
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Your father-in-law holding a beer saying “you’re doing that wrong” is EPIC 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Have you experimented with soil cement? Years ago I had a small shed with a dirt floor and decided to just till cement into it and add water. A little mixing and leveling and I had a floor that still had not cracked when I moved six years later.
Mother Earth News talked about doing that for roads years ago. Weaker than proper cement, and has the advantage of looking like dirt.
So I was having a bit of an anxious morning. Got this notification for this video and your positive energy was really calming. Thanks Bro!
Dude, I was waiting for the next level. But it does look much better.
Tyler Ley, who is material scientist focused on concrete, has recently done a video testing dry vs wet pour. worth the watch, but the short bit is: in some applications dry pour is okay, just like Michael is saying; dry pour has about 30% of the PSI rating compared to wet pour; and dry pour does not addhear properly to rebar.
I was thinking about doing a dry pour pad for my car, but I am pretty sure jack stands would exceed the PSI rating, thus making it more dangerous than the packed gravel currently is.
I’ve done 3 sidewalks dry pour and the last one I did had the same single surface pop issue you had. Not a big deal and I can fix them with methods you showed in other videos. Overall I’m very pleased with the outcome. They sit right next to professionally done concrete and probably look better than what I paid someone to do wet.
Michael you are without a doubt the dry pour cement master! 👍👍🔨🔨
Your awesome!
Thinking of using for borders (filled with gravel ).
"Really don't care"
Typical response to any pothole in the world today
Otherwise - another genius video from my all time favorite builder channel
Thanx again for a great, educational and entertaining 11/12 minutes
I LOVE IT. I DID NOTICE THAT YOU WATERING DIDNT REACH THE BACK OF THE WALKWAY AS CONSISTENTLY AS THE OTHER AREAS. THINKING THAT MAY HAVE PLAYED A PART IN THE CHIPPING
What a pleasing shape and functional, too. Very nice ☺
Looks great and would likely save days off my recovery!
My boy... you seem to like the dry pour😂😂😂 ive seen many of your videos with them!😂😂😂
Michael you are in dry poor heaven. lol
Regarding the misting/wait/misting/wait/flooding sequence, has anyone tried to just set a mist nozzle(s) for the entire watering process? As I understand it, misting is only required to keep the surface intact until dry. However, if you simply just start misting for a few hours, it wouldn't disturb the surface, but drench the entire thing all in one go. Not giving it time to form a crust, which is more prone to being broken off.
I'm sure if anyone would be willing to give this a shot, Michael would be my first choice.
I had a spot in my gravel driveway that kept washing out due to runoff from my barn's cement pad at the top of the hill. I ran across dry pouring concrete and decided to give it a shot. I didn't put in a form or anything. They had put tar and gravel down on my road so the end of my driveway was full of the perfect base for the dry pour and to allow water to flow through beneath the cement. I filled the wash with the gravel to get it mostly level, then I took 4 bags of concrete(Menards brand because it's the closest and cheapest to me) and poured it over the gravel and raked it smooth. I wanted it left with some texture since I'm in Michigan and my driveway is an incline and didn't want a slick ice spot in the middle of where I drive. I looked at how much water should be used per bag and multiplied it times 4. I put that much in my hand pump garden sprayer. I misted the entire thing and re-misted every 15-20 minutes until I was out of water. I then covered it with a tarp for 3 days before removing it. It has held up the past two winters without cracking at all. There's not a smooth crust since I wanted the slightly rocky texture, but nothing has popped off of it anywhere. I've been considering trying a real sidewalk dry pour as I want to extend the sidewalk by my house a few feet farther. I'm not sure if it's worth pouring considering I'd have to buy material for a form and a trowel for the edges or just buy a few pavers and go with those.
I’ve been wondering the same thing. Been planning a new fire pit area, might need to do some tests before where it’s just misted non stop and test how long that would take to fully saturate say a three inch dry pour.
THIS is the exact project I’ve been considering at my house!
How did you know?? 🙂
Have a blessed day!
I appreciate you.
Heeeeyyyyy Michael!!! ❤ How did I miss this video! 😅
You my friend are THEE Dry Pour Master!!!
Oddly enough, I am doing the same project, but with Quikrete walk maker and dyed wet pour
I'm thinking if you tamp down and settle the dry mix. You would get a denser concrete and would end up without those settling bubbles when you do the hard shell misting. Probably a denser slab too.
I am new to you. For years, I have watched cement artists on the internet. Have tried my hand at sculpting things from cement. They seem to have such control over their work. I have had somany fails that now I just watch. Would love to know where you found abstract tree design for your fire table. I am 70 and never stop dreaming. Just found you. Thanks for being. P.S. want to try acrylic pour. Hopefully this lifetime. ❤😅
I live in the mountains of Puerto Rico and want to pour a 8’ x8’ slab. We have upper 80s with 80%+ humidity. Do you think we need to modify the water spraying of the dry pour because of the difference in dry time?
So what happens if you start misting it as you go? so spread a few bags out wet, then add few more bags. Then full wet after last few bags go down.
Have a great day.
Patrick
Hi Mike
I'm going to attempt your front of shed dry pour, without the rain, i a couple weeks, waiting on my cornea transplant ok from the doctor, damn weight limit is 10 pounds you know how low that is, sucks for my 14 yr old daughter and things i need lifted. I want a 10x6 slab to drag my small porter cable table saw out to cut on so my little tool shed stops being a saw dust catcher.
Thank you. I am super new to this stuff. Have you ever heard of dry pour with aggregate finish? Is that possible?
Quick question, could you use the rapid set mortar that you did on cement block.....can you put that over cement board?
I need to do this soon. I need a pad to put my BBQ and smoker. ..... After the pad is set can it be gone over again with wet portland and stamp it? or would it crack off and chip away?
I saw on another site that started the dry pour trend that you have to pour bleach on existing pad for new concrete to adhere. Can't recall name of site.
At least one other RUclipsr has done stamping with dry pour with great success. For the top half-inch of the pour, he uses sand mix mortar. I think his name is Teddy Zane?
@@isabellavision Ill check it ot. Thank You I see a video where a guy just stocked the bags drove rebar through them then turned on the sprinkler over night on them for a wall.... Crazy
ruclips.net/video/h_sYmbobQ0E/видео.html
Are there any rules as to when to put in mesh or rebar into cement?? I usually forget that part. But are there any rules such as if it's 2 in deep or 3 in deep or this long or that long where you should use some type of metal reinforcement
You would use metal reinforcement when the load on top of the concrete is going to be a little more significant, or the slab is going to cover an area that spans more than a few square feet. drop the mesh or rebar in at about half the depth of your form board-then cover it but do not water it until you have all the concrete mix in there!
@@stanbaxley416 amazing thanks so much 🙏
I absolutely want to try this method, but I'm a little lost on how to do this when my yard has a slight slope. HELP!! My yard is small and, ideally, I'd like to dry pour 4 square pads. Any thoughts and recommendations would be amazing!
The DiY argument is fair, but I'd simplify further. Yellow bags are rated to 4000 psi after 30 days. Dry-pour will be lucky to handle 2000 psi after a month (meaning fresh it's lucky to be 1000 psi concrete).
What we know is dry-pour doesn't form a solid matrix and as the water is added, air is pushed out leaving fissures throughout... Because there is no mixing forming a creme to bind everything uniformly, we can skip rebar/mesh. Because it won't bond enough to give dry-mix tensile strength. And since there's no solid matrix, we can skip crack control joints. Crack control joints work in wet-mix because the joint introduces a failure point into the uniform structure, so 'forces' are attracted to that location to relieve themselves. Lastly, because the concrete if full of voids and invisible structural cracking, we can skip laying stone down for drainage, the dry-mix porosity is off the scale already.
Hey can you use hydrogen peroxide instead of water when mixing concrete?
Dry pour is a good alternative for diyer on doing concrete slabs. I myself poured 16x16 pad only for foot traffic and had amazing results no cracking or whatsoever. Not a perfect professional finish but i'll still take it compared to if i am paying a pro and paying $6k for it. Dry pouring needs a little bit of patience just water it for a month to cure that concrete and life is good.
What are the dimensions of the slab?
Nice! (as usual 😊) I want to pour a small 2’x4’ pad for my garbage cans. Do I need the rebar for a pour that small?
Not unless you're gonna ever drive over it. No reason to reinforce it unless it's gonna have to hold a large amount of weight like a car
That is the perfect spot for a dry pour. Too bad you can't dry pour cinder blocks together😂
So you show the imperfections after the build. My question couldn’t you use that resurfacer for driveways that you showed on another video to cover the imperfections?
Hey, Michael, I was wondering, don't you have any bloopers you can show us?!?
What is the tool that you used to round the edges?
Concrete edger. Get one any place concrete trowels and floats are sold. Can also get the expansion joint trowel.
Just cement finish tools. Harbor freight you can get the whole kit for almost nothing.
@@coyoteodie4458 thank you!
@@philcarpenter thank you!
@seawinegirl .. your very welcome. Good luck with your project!
What would happen to the concrete over time if you did use hydrogen peroxide instead of water?
Does anyone know where he lives? I live in the northeast so am wondering if this would work for me here.
Michigan
I've had 2 dry pour slabs go thru 2 harsh winters and they haven't had any issues. One i poured right over grass to test and it hasn't heaved or cracked
Anyone think you can drive/park on a dry pour? Maybe just for walkways and stuff it's good, IDK.
Hey Michael! Do you handle editing in-house or remotely? I'm a video editor and would love to discuss, if you’re interested.
NO! That vine is the riverbank grape, *Vitis* *riparia* - keep trimmin’ ‘er down to a T-shape from the main stem from the ground, and every year you may have the most delicious wild grapes you’ve ever tasted.
I tried this once didn’t work out at all. I guess I have no luck.😮
or you're not too bright?
Should have gone over entire surface with dry paint roller, like cajun country livin says to do before spraying, would have prevented imperfections.
no it doesnt
Did you ditch Rapidset? You always use that brand!!
Love love love your channel. But I hate the music in between lol I constantly leave the volume off so I don't have to hear the music. But then I miss what you're saying.. so I leave the closed captions on. 😂
Constructive criticism, i found the music in this video way too loud. Really detracted from it.
Well, he is deaf in one ear, can't heasr out the other and does his own editiing.
@@billmthacker editing software has a visual representation of audio volume. Stop gate keeping
@@2MinuteReviewwhat is gate keeping?!?!
Just know that it will be prone to chipping.
You forgot the paint roller step
I'm doing this for the base for my swimming pool /plunge pool (3m round, 75cm high) How long should I wait to put the pool on it do you think?
You said about the concrete getting some air under the "top crust" and losing that little bit of the top layer.... This seems to happen consistently to you. The 1 main difference between your attempts at the dry pour and the people from the Cajun County Livin' channel is that they did the paint roller and you didn't.... Could that one simple thing be whats causing it to happen to you and not them?
I watched twice trying to see if I missed you telling us the size of the walkway. Then you measured 4 feet twice so I realized it is 3 feet by 12 feet. Or, 36 square feet and probable 3 inches thick. You used 15 bags. I’m getting ready to pour a 6 by 16 foot pad so I should feel comfortable having 45 - 5 more than I will probably need - bags being more than enough to do the job. So probably a good rule of thumb would half a bag per square foot. That would be a bit heavy but it’s not like you can be short and go back to the store. Anyway, if this works out I’ll be doing more so they will get used if I have leftovers.
I estimate 17 bags of wet pour mix.
your bugs are killing me. lol
Ironically, your two favorite steps are my most hated. Just like you mentioned, I get tons of rocks coming to the surface and I've tried every possible screeding motion. Same for the edging, i thought it would go smoothly(ha!) but i got a lot of rocks and divots, the furthest thing from smooth. Very disappointing, especially because I'm a sculptor by trade, thought this would be easy for me! 😂 I did find a way to get a good surface by actually a series of tapping on the top of the frame with the screeding board, like a stamping motion. It kicked up enough fine powder to kind of fill in all the uneven spots and rock holes. Then I went over it all with the paint roller technique. I hope this tip can help someone else who might be struggling. Great videos, I always look forward to the new ones! 👍🏻
My experience was similar to yours
Wjhat has the guitar got to do with the task? Would have been so much better without the MTV background.
How many dry pour videos can you possibly make?
Hopefully enough to convince me I can do it.
@@coyoteodie4458please just don’t.
Enough to keep you commenting and getting him views and comments. This is great info, and he sticks to his content.
Yes😊
all of them
I've been here from the first video (and still amazed at the quality of Production for a first video), but it's time to move on from Dry Pour, I'm not watching another Dry Pour video, it's frankly garbage concrete technique that no one should be using for anything.
I guess you like a sidewalk that is 25% as strong as it should be....
who cares.
Ugh enough with the "dry pour" vids. Hope viewers realize these "one weird trick!"-type videos are created strictly for generating youtube engagement. Just follow the directions on the bag and mix the water in first, it's EASIER and BETTER than fiddling with all this nonsense.
Step 1. Don't do dry pours.
Dry pours are the worst.
Why?
@@Debt-tective they're weak.
@@Debt-tectiveif you do it perfect, it's 30% as strong as wet pour
Click bate.. ie Master Bater. Dry pour will never be as good as a properly mixed wet pour. In any dry pour the ingredients will stratify by weight and size, leaving portions with more aggregate and less cement or vice versa. No way around that in a dry pour. Crumble crumble…toil and trouble.
You don't
how to do a dry pour sidewalk - don't.
I've seen testing of dry pouring vs pre mixed. Dry pouring just crumbles apart it's a complete waist of time. You seem fairly intelligent and obviously you know your way around the internet so the question begs...... Why do your viewers this way when you know it's a bad idea?
dry pour is just stupid and a waste of time, just do it once and do it properly, so much easier to do a wet mix anyway. constant dry pour videos is getting old. how about showing a video on how to do it the right way for a change.
If you do that, make sure you do a decent size slab (like this video's size) and have ONLY 1 person doing all the work by hand.
I get the impression your insinuating it can't be done correctly on a budget. Your obviously know how the internet works so I don't need to tell you differently if you do a little research.
@@stoneyswolf err, you do realise it costs the same either way! 😅 i assume you commented in the wrong place because your comment does not seem to relate to my comment or the reply.
@@stoneyswolf I am not insinuating anything about the cost. Don't "assume." I'm stating that for a single person to do it is difficult. You sound like you "know it all" so make the video and do a wet pour, with the same dimensions and limited room space, and prove me wrong. Prove that, as you stated, "is easier."
wet pour from bags is a LOT of work. I'm getting a mixer next time I do one.
C'mon man! Enough with the dry pour videos, Jack. 🤨
So the weird air-bubble crumble issue. Why not work the cement before it sets up…like the top layer of “mud” on a normal slab. Just a thought.
Forgive me if this just isn’t possible and I don’t understand.
Dry pour is not worth doing yet another video on. It's been proven time and again not to be durable. I wish people would stop with this fad already.
It's not good enough, it won't last, it'll need to be redone, which means it'll be more expensive in the long-term. The tools to do it right aren't expensive.
Hmm I did a concrete pad for my shed that takes a lot of abuse. Has no reinforcement and has held up over a year solid
@@VivaPonics lol. Sure.
Takes an arrogant dude to tell another man his lived experience isn't true.
@tilleryinnovations592 no arrogance required, just knowledge.
I completely agree, I really REALLY don’t understand the purpose honestly… It’s so much quicker, easier and holds up better just mixing it as intended.
Pouring it dry makes a mess, has a worse finish, you have to constantly water it throughout the day and it’s ultimately more work.
To do it right you can buy a $10 hoe (or use a shovel) and mix it in a wheelbarrow. Or you can buy a $4 bucket and a mixer for a drill (a drill that EVERY homeowner willing to do DIY projects already own) and mix it that way.
I agree this whole fad is dumb as hell and teaching homeowners the wrong way to do things. If they cut corners as SIMPLE as “mixing” the concrete first, god knows what else they are attempting in the rest of their home. 😂