I'm managing a .060 over 396 in a K30 on 38's, myself. Fantastic video on the subject. I set up a limiting tab on my electric choke so it's starting in a tuned location maybe half open or so. Using a narrowband A/F gauge I can see its slightly rich when I restart after going to the package store. Before I put the limiting tab there It was way too rich after having been warm, would have to open the throttle up and clear it out. I'm on the fence with keeping this setup or going to a manual cable. I need a choke because I like to be able to start and move at a moments notice. I also have a cable actuated High idle Cam so I can drop it in gear and go with no issue. Another thing is I'm running more initial timing, with my vacuum advance on the "timed" port. Having the timing pull out with vacuum dropping(on the manifold port) created a noticeable flat spot when stepping into it. My 408 bbc is 10.5 cr, with a comp 280h cam k kit. I firmly believe Vacuum advance works great hooked up to manifold when the engine has an off-idle camshaft that's in it's power band at or close to idle. Perhaps, that is the crux of the biscuit with the old vacuum advance line hookup debate.
@@johnweaver8470 Sweet! God Bless Ya Man Daily Driving a Beast like that. A Blast for sure! Mines a hoodless funtoy I keep in a tent here in the northeast. I'm nutty about a smooth startup, cause the locals around me with turbo diesels and injected gassers just turn the key. I also have a cable coming out the back of my distributor that pulls my vacuum advance can(I set the bolts up like studs it could move on) for 10 degrees of start retard. It's spring loaded to stay steady when I release the cable.
Love your show Alan thanks for clearing up the vacuum advance. Other reliable mechanics on RUclips explain it exactly like you just did. Thanks for sharing your Mountain of knowledge with us viewers
You're right on the money with the choke. First thing I do is take off the choke and throw it in the garbage. When it comes to tuning a carburetor, two things must be right before I start and that is fuel pressure and float level. I fine carburetors will give you all kinds of trouble with too much fuel pressure, 6lb is all I shoot for. If you need more fuel go to a bigger fuel line for more volume. I set the float so that it drips out when I bump the car. If you're racing give it a 1/2 turn counter clock wise to raise it after you put the plug back in. The engineers at GM use manifold vacuum at idle, I'm not going to argue with them they're smarter than me. But I set my initial timing with a vacuum gage. I advance till I get the most vacuum then back it off a little. When driving if I get knock I'll back it off a little more and or go up on the fuel octane. Don't know if it's perfect but the engine seems happy. Well that is about all I got to say haha, all the best.
Great Video Mr Gold! Please correct me if I'm wrong, this is from 2 stroke engines. We use Br#es spark plugs a lot. Br9es/br10es we use in High winding High combustion chamber 65-125cc motocross. We use br7es in some low reving low temp combustion chamberKTM 300 enduro engines. We had a Kx125 with br9es that fouled 2 plugs on a relax ride. We switched it to br7es and was good for the day. Lower the number for lower chamber temps. Higher the number for lower chamber temps. I dont see the plug creating the higher/lower temps, but being to live/thrive in that said environnement. Thanks and keep them videos coming!!!!
Thanks for another good video. The next time you visit the "dyno" room = would it be possible to discuss volumetric efficiency? Is this related to the air fuel ratio throughout the rpm range?? Thank you!!
Pump gas needs a heated manifold on the street,a annular booster in the carb will help on the street, race fuel is just the opposite, good video Alan!!
Great information 👍🏼😎 I've always thought any timing over 36 was considered to much..well I'm unlocking my distributor back to normal cause I have it locked out at 36 and it doesn't seem to run that good.
Be careful Steelcity, More than 36 degrees at idle with the manifold vacuum connected is what i was referring to. 36 degrees including initial and mechanical advance at RPM should still work. AG
Thanks for the question. The PERFORMANCE UNLIMITED i buy from is in London Ontario, about 20 minutes from my house. They have a website if you want to check them out.AG
tune a Camshaft added with 10 degrees more duration then needed and was not my choice as I did not install cam i bought it that way. I would think more ignition timing. it already has a RPM intake. it appaers they added too much duration (A 408 mopar with 10.5 mechanical compression , close ABDC 69 =8.1:1 (160P.S.I.)the camshaft has for Nitrous they added
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You do such a good job explaining things. Most people do not realize all of the benefits of a properly tuned engine.
Thanks Allen:: i always look forward to your high Octane informational video's. Can't wait till the next one.
I'm managing a .060 over 396 in a K30 on 38's, myself. Fantastic video on the subject.
I set up a limiting tab on my electric choke so it's starting in a tuned location maybe half open or so. Using a narrowband A/F gauge I can see its slightly rich when I restart after going to the package store. Before I put the limiting tab there It was way too rich after having been warm, would have to open the throttle up and clear it out. I'm on the fence with keeping this setup or going to a manual cable. I need a choke because I like to be able to start and move at a moments notice. I also have a cable actuated High idle Cam so I can drop it in gear and go with no issue.
Another thing is I'm running more initial timing, with my vacuum advance on the "timed" port.
Having the timing pull out with vacuum dropping(on the manifold port) created a noticeable flat spot when stepping into it.
My 408 bbc is 10.5 cr, with a comp 280h cam k kit.
I firmly believe Vacuum advance works great hooked up to manifold when the engine has an off-idle camshaft that's in it's power band at or close to idle.
Perhaps, that is the crux of the biscuit with the old vacuum advance line hookup debate.
Sounds like a nice truck you have, I've got a 74 k 20 with 38,s and a 454 gets me to work when the snow gets deep in the Pacific north west
@@johnweaver8470 Sweet! God Bless Ya Man Daily Driving a Beast like that. A Blast for sure!
Mines a hoodless funtoy I keep in a tent here in the northeast. I'm nutty about a smooth startup, cause the locals around me with turbo diesels and injected gassers just turn the key.
I also have a cable coming out the back of my distributor that pulls my vacuum advance can(I set the bolts up like studs it could move on) for 10 degrees of start retard. It's spring loaded to stay steady when I release the cable.
Love your show Alan thanks for clearing up the vacuum advance. Other reliable mechanics on RUclips explain it exactly like you just did. Thanks for sharing your Mountain of knowledge with us viewers
Learned a lot about the carbon buildup that i have experienced in the past. Excellent information, thank you.
Your video is a lot better than anything on TV tonight Alan.
You're right on the money with the choke. First thing I do is take off the choke and throw it in the garbage. When it comes to tuning a carburetor, two things must be right before I start and that is fuel pressure and float level. I fine carburetors will give you all kinds of trouble with too much fuel pressure, 6lb is all I shoot for. If you need more fuel go to a bigger fuel line for more volume. I set the float so that it drips out when I bump the car. If you're racing give it a 1/2 turn counter clock wise to raise it after you put the plug back in. The engineers at GM use manifold vacuum at idle, I'm not going to argue with them they're smarter than me. But I set my initial timing with a vacuum gage. I advance till I get the most vacuum then back it off a little. When driving if I get knock I'll back it off a little more and or go up on the fuel octane. Don't know if it's perfect but the engine seems happy. Well that is about all I got to say haha, all the best.
Great Video Mr Gold!
Please correct me if I'm wrong, this is from 2 stroke engines.
We use Br#es spark plugs a lot. Br9es/br10es we use in High winding High combustion chamber 65-125cc motocross.
We use br7es in some low reving low temp combustion chamberKTM 300 enduro engines.
We had a Kx125 with br9es that fouled 2 plugs on a relax ride. We switched it to br7es and was good for the day.
Lower the number for lower chamber temps.
Higher the number for lower chamber temps.
I dont see the plug creating the higher/lower temps, but being to live/thrive in that said environnement.
Thanks and keep them videos coming!!!!
Very informative video Allan. I learned a lot, thanks.
My friend even used a vaccum advance on his Super stock car. It cleaned up the idle . Other cars were about to stall in the pits and the lanes.
Great explanation AG. But some people stuck in there ways are thinking just lock out the distributor.
14.7 is also the air pressure at sea level with whatever the standard temperature is associated with it.
Thanks for another good video. The next time you visit the "dyno" room = would it be possible to discuss volumetric efficiency? Is this related to the air fuel ratio throughout the rpm range?? Thank you!!
Thanks buddy! Good video as always!
The Best teacher on RUclips 🚘👨🏼🔧🫶🦾
Pump gas needs a heated manifold on the street,a annular booster in the carb will help on the street, race fuel is just the opposite, good video Alan!!
Unity Motor Sports Garage has a great video on tuning vaccum advance. Believe i or not on a big block Ford with a tunnel ram!
Great information 👍🏼😎 I've always thought any timing over 36 was considered to much..well I'm unlocking my distributor back to normal cause I have it locked out at 36 and it doesn't seem to run that good.
Be careful Steelcity, More than 36 degrees at idle with the manifold vacuum connected is what i was referring to. 36 degrees including initial and mechanical advance at RPM should still work. AG
Alan, those are glow plugs, you need sparkplugs!! 😉 Hope you had a great Thanksgiving with your family!!
Question, isn't performance unlimited in Florida if so why you buying from them where you live ? Thx
Thanks for the question. The PERFORMANCE UNLIMITED i buy from is in London Ontario, about 20 minutes from my house. They have a website if you want to check them out.AG
tune a Camshaft added with 10 degrees more duration then needed and was not my choice as I did not install cam i bought it that way. I would think more ignition timing. it already has a RPM intake. it appaers they added too much duration (A 408 mopar with 10.5 mechanical compression , close ABDC 69 =8.1:1 (160P.S.I.)the camshaft has for Nitrous they added
20k 🎉