2007 Honda Civic Lower Control Arm - Ball Joint
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- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2019
- Short video on replacing lower control arm with ball joint on honda civic. Advantage of replacing entire arm is the new bushings you get with them.
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Great video! As a gearhead myself, it's obvious that you are an experienced and competent mechanic. I appreciate the video.
Thanks for the comment and watching I appreciate it!
this was a great help and you were a great teacher thank you so much
Thank You...187K and my compensating bushing is torn. Think I will check the ball joint and keep the original if tight. Not fond of those ball joints with grease fittings. Does that front bushing design help control oversteer is aggressive turning. Thinking it may increase toe out to fight that on Nader Corvair unsafe at any Speed syndrome?
Amazing video I’m about to do this
Thanks for the nice compliment I appreciate it!
I was unable to put ball joint back (align). I've tried to mount it first, I've tried to mount it as the last piece. didn't work. I removed strut lower mounting bolts and then easily aligned ball joint. How to do it without dismounting the strut?
Do you know where I can find the torque specs for the arm?
Hoopties Garage - I luv the name. I can imagine what the dealer is charging for the part & the labor.
May attempt to do my front and rear control arms myself soon. What size is the Milwaukee ratchet you were using?
The ratchet is their regular 3/8 it's not very heavy duty you will have to break stuff loose first then use it still saves a ton of time. They have a fuel option which is more heavy duty but it's heavier and it doesn't get into tight places as well that's the main reason I use their standard ratchet
hey there question if I may. What type of nut was in the sway bar link that you hit with the impact? want to make sure I have the right sockets for the job when I do this myself
It's a 17mm nut with a hex center I don't know off the top of my head the size of the hex but get a small kit at any auto parts store and that size should be in there
@@HooptiesGarage 5mm
Awesome video, been using this for mine. However, my Inner bolt, the 15mm, seems to be stuck in the bushing (I read in forums that is common for control arms). Do you have any tips for breaking this free? Breaking the bushings down? I have since soaked it in rust penetrator so hopefully that helps when I get home.
I am replacing the control arms and ball joint, sway bar links, and tie rod ends. I am in east Tennessee, otherwise I'd just come to your shop lol. Thanks, again, for the video and any assistance!
I have used torches in the past, heat will be your friend. If you don't have a torch the small map torches at hardware stores will work good as well.
Got it moving. You are a guru! Thank you!!!
I also need to change control arms, ball joints, swaybar link , tie rods. But I want to do it myself to save money. Ur videos help alot.
Everything is so cheap in USA. In Canada, we need to pay the same for double with a lot of rust.
We got a lot of rust here in certain areas I am lucky in St Louis it's not super bad only have to deal with it here and there but not as bad as I see others.
Thanks you
How do you get to the bolt you put the handheld Milwaukee on without a handheld Milwaukee? I have been trying with a ratchet and a breaker bar but not much room for the breaker bar.. Can’t create enough force to move the bolt it’s very tight as they all seem to have been so far
I use one of those expandable ratchets and a shallow socket they can be pretty rusty sometimes depending on where you live.
@@HooptiesGarage I was trying a large ratchet with a 14mm deep well my regular socket was misplaced I feel I’d have a chance if I could find my normal socket with 3/4 ratchet
Hey if your control arm bushing is really bad would you hear a knocking/klang sound when you turn. (For me when I turn right it’s my left side control arm)
If the bushings are real bad it's very possible that's a lot of movement on the control arm when the bushings are wasted
Possibly, I'm about to do both of mine, which went from slowly going bad to suddenly shot. Car tries to do the macarena on the highway, downright dangerous when it rains! Hopefully it will ride better also.
Do you need to disconnect the strut assembly prior to remove/install the control arm?
No I would recommend removing cv joint that’s it
I have this problem where the bolts on the old control arm seized I cut it out but from snapping the head of the bolt the first hole where the arm goes into next to the tie rod got bigger and now the bolt will wobble also I’m still left with the left over of the bolt on the welded nut size. Don’t know what to do with the mess up hole should I get someone to weld it to fill in the hole?
I'm not sure I totally understand the situation but if you still have part of the bolt still in nut and you can get to it try to heat it up and turn it out.
@@HooptiesGarage it was the bolt from the control arm bushing the one closer to the tie rod. I thought I messed up the hole. But one of the problems to was that I had left over bolt inside the part on the welded nut. It was stuck since I cut the bolt on the inside to get the control arm. Had to get my mechanic friend to really torch it. I had a torch but wasn’t heating it enough. Thank you for the help. This “simple” job turned into a few days of nightmare
@@jakeyfpv I've had a bunch of those in my career and it always sucks lol
@ hoopties garage, hey sir.. Nice video! and i have a question, what brand is control arm that you used? thankz
It was o'reilly's I believe
@@HooptiesGarage thank U
@@HooptiesGarage. I'm about to do mine, but curious as to why this gen Civic handles big bumps like a Model T? It's horrible driving in the city or any big bumps. Replaced shocks all the way round, went up one tire size, lowered pressure.... tiniest improvement. I'm seriously considering adding rubber between the strut and body! (Not trying to hijack the thread, but original comments of mine are never seen for some reason.)
@@mikewillett5076 adding rubber wouldn't change it, most Hondas have a firm ride I hear that complaint a lot I'm not sure much can be done about it and the civic being their economy model is probably one of their harshest its a basic suspension setup.
@@HooptiesGarage. Thanks for the reply. I don't expect it to ride like a Lincoln and I don't mind a sport ride. But this handles big bumps kinda sloppy and very hammering. Isn't like it's sprung too stiff, in fact I swapped to SI springs in the rear due to bottoming out. I guess higher up cars have something isolating the suspension from the chassis, this transmits every road imperfection. Rode in older (90s) Civics, handled bumps better. Next car I get will be test driven on the worst streets! Lol
Would you need an alignment after just a conteol arm replacement
They will always recommend alignment after any front end work but if the front end is in good shape and you didn't tag a curb or anything then it's totally up to you.
where did you buy the control the arm?
Oreillys
I am facing an issue, the ball joint and the rotor hole where it goes in for the castle nut. Wont align
Jack the wheel and adjust it accordingly.
What’s the torque specs for the control arm????
Sir, how will you torque the lower ball joint without removing the cv axle? Imposible ; save time remove the axle
Tighten it up with a wrench like I did in video
No this guy is capping. If it’s original you have to take the cv joint out. No way you can get enough torque to get it off with just a wrench. If you use a wrench be prepared to cut and grind out that ball bearing.
Honestly getting it on you could probably do won’t be right but still can get it good enough for the pin to go through but you will never get the original off
What Symptoms was he experiencing? Wondering if my control arms/ball joints Are bad on my civic
Oversteer/ understeer. I replaced mine for better handling but I don’t think it really gonna be something you notice
whats the torque specs on that impact wrench. im buying my first impact wrench thanks:)
You talking about the blue kobalt? It's not very powerful it's only a 3/8, depending on your budget the Milwaukee would be the best choice I have a Milwaukee short 1/2 and I love that one .
@@HooptiesGarage how much torque should my impact wrench be?
@@Gtee7900 well it all depends on what your budget is, if you want a beast get a 1/2 Milwaukee ive also heard really good things about harbor freight electric 1/2 earthquake.
Im having trouble connecting the two bolts.
Yeah that can be a pain it will go back sometimes it takes some serious finagling
@@HooptiesGarage for the lower ball joint right ?
Stuck on getting the actual arm in... wish you didn’t skip that part....
Sorry, as long as you didn't have a wreck or impact it's just a matter of working it back in there they usually won't just slide in, spray it down with lube where it slides into frame and work it in, sometimes you have to tap them in with a hammer/small sledge.
@@HooptiesGarage I appreciate the fast reply! I ended up figuring it out, but it truly did take some serious elbow grease lol
My bushings are ripped y I'm watching
Sorry, I think everything but the “grease fitting” and puffing it up. I wish you showed that part
Just pump it full of grease until the boot starts puffing out then your good
Hoopties Garage thanks man, for this work can i turn the wheel to get better access to control arm etc or must it remain straight?
No it doesn't matter do what you got to do to fill that boot
Hoopties Garage thanks, haha sorry but one last question if you don’t mind. Im replacing the sway links, control arm and ball joints. It’s rusted bad. I’m just going to cut the links off. I’m afraid I may have to destroy the bolts that connect control arm to frame. Do you know what size those are? Do ball joints come with castle nuts? Thanks a lot
WARNINIG, these cars are getting old enough to have the bolt fuse it’s self to the rubber in the rear(horizontal) bushing. If you’re not prepared to cut this bolt with a sawsall, pry, and extract the remaining bolt segments or are willing to deal with the issue, don’t attempt this project. You have been warned.
you should invest in a blow torch my friend. Any work on these cars I torch everything
@@ProteinFeen that’ll probably work too, I’m just giving people a heads up so they’re not caught off guard like when I did mine. In fact I ended up taking it to a shop where they butchered the hell out of it.
@@ryani5103 okay perfect time to respond I just replaced mine and my cv axel. That horizontal rubber bushing came out fine. HOWEVER THE BALL JOINT WAS SO RUSTED AND I TRIED TAKING THE NUT LOOSE WITHOUT REMOVING THE CV JOINT. Needless to say I had to cut and grind that ball bearing off. Sucked so bad but people that have 08’ Hondas should be ready to deal with rust. Anything under the car is rusted.
@@ryani5103 also I torched every bolt at least three times on my passenger control arms
@@ProteinFeen I don’t think everyone is going to have an issue with that bushing. I’m sure some have replaced it in the past however some just replace the front bushing and leave the other one to basically just get worse.
Skips over the part where he takes the castle nut off and doesn’t say the size of the nut! Not that helpful
Lol. Maybe put the tools down