everyone always forgets to mention, always warm the engine up for a few minutes before removing the spark plugs. not hot, just warm. Makes it much easier to remove corroded thread plugs and better for the head.
I have over 325,000 miles on my 2011. I have had the plugs changed twice so far but had a shop do it. I'm going to tackle this in the morning with the help of your video. Wish me luck on those 8mm bolts haha
0:35 The reason why it did not work for you is because I noticed you attempting to push down on the red plastic piece. You're supposed to push down on the U-shaped (dark grey) plastic that sits atop the red piece. Then you should be able to slide off easier with the pliers. Hope that helps.
Hey man. So I have a bolt that broke off, i cannot back it out with pliers. I seriously dont think its coming out, it seems rusted right in.. Any tips on getting the boot to stay in place snugger? Jb weld? Duct seal? Like it holds itself there alright but its not tight tight. Would having it not pressed tight with a bolt create issues being not a perfect seal?
I had the exact same issue, and I didn't have an issue with it pushed in for months. One thing you can add are the coil covers. These covers came stock on the Mustang, but Ford kept them off the trucks. Since they weren't on the trucks, those coil pack bolts rust out and have broken on a lot of people's cars. I wouldn't use JB Weld because you will have an issue getting it back off when you need to. This summer I'll be replacing my valve covers to fix this issue.
After you raise the red tab on the coil connector, use you thumb and push down on the black tab. That will release the connector and it pulls off easily without breaking anything at that point.
@@TrickShiftGarage will do. I can get bolts here in Calgary. Not going to pay for the motorcraft ones. I think I’ll just buy some 30mm M5 stainless and chop them down a bit. For sure just get the stock motorcraft plugs though I think is best.
Yea definitely. I bought oem bolts, but painted the bolt heads and applied antiseize to the threads. That helps keep our moisture and I haven't had an issue so far.
@@TrickShiftGarage yeah these just look so rusty and dusty it’s my only ride so I don’t want to have to get a tow or something. I got a zip cutter I can make a 27” bolt. I’ll just replace them all. Plugs only got 51k on them but the new ones when they did them sure improved mileage on the highway I have a lot of travel coming up. Good old truck I’ll take care of her I really don’t want to be back wheeling and dealing at the stealer ship 🤣 $70k for a bronco nowadays 🇨🇦
@TrickShiftGarage i got one changed. Didn't think I'd be able to break the plug loose it was so tight. I think the last guy overtightened them. The others will have to wait lol bending over doing that is killer 🤣
Yea definitely be careful. And make sure you run your engine for about 5 minutes to help remove the ones that are harder to get off. That should allow things to loosen up a bit.
Hello Grey, so I was unaware of this issue. I revised the videos title from 2011-2023, to 2011-2017. After researching, it does appear that you need to disconnect the fuel line around cylinder 3. I'm not sure if this works or not, but one guy mentioned to keep your driver door closed and open the passenger side to pop your hood. According to him, when you open the driver door, it will prime that high pressure fuel pump. So if you go through the passenger side, it should prevent fuel from just spilling out. He said he had a few drops and that was it. I hope this helps, and I am sorry for the confusion.
I read in a forum someone say it's an updated design. Honestly, that makes sense because the red clips are terrible and break all the time. So maybe that's true.
Hello, I'm sorry for the really really late response! I didn't notice this comment until I got on my computer. But, after doing some research, one website said to torque the plugs on the 2015-2017 down to 10 ft. lbs and another said to torque them down to 12. If I had a 2015-2017, I would torque them down to 12 ft. lbs, since there aren't a ton of differences between the Gen 1 and Gen 2 coyote motors. The Gen 3's are a completely different story though. Again, I apologize for being so late on this. I'm not sure why this comment did not show up on my phone app, but I will try to get on my computer daily from now on to prevent missing these comments.
Slip a small flat head screw driver under the center of the connector and ease it up to disconnect the plug. Only takes a few oz of pressure and nothing breaks.
Also, straight from google: Spark plug protection: Dielectric grease can be applied sparingly to the inside of spark plug boots to prevent sparks from arcing.
@@TrickShiftGarage It's intended to fill any gap between the porcelain and the boot itself. Ideally, you wouldn't want to get any on the actual metal bulb or the clip inside the boot, as dielectric grease is NOT conductive. But as you said, most people assume it's conductive and pay no care to how it's applied, and it's unlikely to cause any issue. But the statement that it improves the connection is technically false.
@@TrickShiftGarage It prevents arcing between the clip inside the coil and the head, which is a pretty unusual circumstance, though I have seen it happen.
Dielectric grease is an insulator so you don't want it on the tip of the plug, so technically don't put it in the coil boot, put it on the white ceramic part of the plug. Will it make a difference if you put it in the boot - probably not, as it will be pushed aside when you seat the coil on the plug, but what the heck. If you do use anti-seize, use copper high temp anti-seize. Why, because the plugs are grounded by the threads, and you want a good ground.
Do me a favor, take a picture and send it to me in an email. Trickshiftgarage@gmail.com I'm very curious about what you are both referring to. Seems to me like you have an issue with a coil pack, because once you remove it, the spark plug should be easily accessible.
@@TrickShiftGarage Apologies. Just finished replacing mine. You were correct, It ended up being a torn of piece of the ignition coil boot. I had to buy an extra long pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out. Then the 5/8 socket worked fine. My bad. Thanks for the informative video.
If the spark plug can thread into place, then the antiseize used will not prevent the spark plug from grounding. Think about it: spark plugs aren't loose when you screw them in. What does that mean? It means the part or all of the threads are tight in the head. If it's tight, it's touching. Meaning: it's grounded properly.
Unfortunately, it's used on a ton of other Ford vehicles too. So many people break those clips. But, there is a fix for it and I'll be doing a video on it soon, so stay tuned! 🤟
I've never had a boot break, but you should always inspect yours for cracks or wear. Eventually, the boots will need to be replaced. When they need to be replaced is a different question altogether. Some people can go hundreds of thousands of miles on the factory coil packs, others need to replace after 100k. So check yours thoroughly to make sure you don't run into issues later on.
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everyone always forgets to mention, always warm the engine up for a few minutes before removing the spark plugs. not hot, just warm. Makes it much easier to remove corroded thread plugs and better for the head.
Good point! While it's not necessary, it definitely makes it easier to remove. Thanks for watching! 🤟
its the same with the 5.4
I have a question do you have to disconnect the battery to remove the spark plugs
I have over 325,000 miles on my 2011. I have had the plugs changed twice so far but had a shop do it. I'm going to tackle this in the morning with the help of your video. Wish me luck on those 8mm bolts haha
Lol good luck! Hopefully yours comes out. If you notice any rust on them, just be cautious and buy new bolts. They aren't too expensive.
@Trick Shift Garage Appreciate it dude!
Anytime brother. Let us know how it goes!
@@TrickShiftGarage It wasn't too bad. Only busted one clip haha
Thanks again
Lol well that's good! I think I broke 50% of mine lol. Glad you got it done. 👍
Thanks!
Wow! Thank you very much, Marco! We really really appreciate the support!
Great instructional video, made the job a breeze. Thank you.
Anytime! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Coyote coil covers where my first modification 😅 great video thanks
It should have come like that from the factory! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Cool video! Very detailed and I learned some stuff watching. Thanks for posting!
Hey Andy, I'm glad this video helped! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. We appreciate it! 🤟
Great ideas concerning the coil pack bolts! Who knew?
Definitely not Ford lol. Hopefully thus helps people prevent their bolts from rusting out. I still need to replace a valve cover because of it.
0:35 The reason why it did not work for you is because I noticed you attempting to push down on the red plastic piece. You're supposed to push down on the U-shaped (dark grey) plastic that sits atop the red piece. Then you should be able to slide off easier with the pliers. Hope that helps.
Yea I made a lot of mistakes with those connectors lol. Thanks for the tip! And thanks for watching!
Awesome, I have a 2013 F150 5.0 as well. 👍👍
Hey man. So I have a bolt that broke off, i cannot back it out with pliers. I seriously dont think its coming out, it seems rusted right in.. Any tips on getting the boot to stay in place snugger? Jb weld? Duct seal? Like it holds itself there alright but its not tight tight. Would having it not pressed tight with a bolt create issues being not a perfect seal?
I had the exact same issue, and I didn't have an issue with it pushed in for months. One thing you can add are the coil covers. These covers came stock on the Mustang, but Ford kept them off the trucks. Since they weren't on the trucks, those coil pack bolts rust out and have broken on a lot of people's cars. I wouldn't use JB Weld because you will have an issue getting it back off when you need to.
This summer I'll be replacing my valve covers to fix this issue.
After you raise the red tab on the coil connector, use you thumb and push down on the black tab. That will release the connector and it pulls off easily without breaking anything at that point.
Yea, unfortunately I had to replace a few of them.
I like the video. Thanks for the sharing video
Thanks for watching Ska7cis! 🤟
Mine look rust Af the coil bolts thanks so much for the advice. I’m just going buy new bolts
Yea man make sure you do. I had a bolt rust out so bad that it broke. That's not fun to deal with.
Let me know how it goes!
@@TrickShiftGarage will do. I can get bolts here in Calgary. Not going to pay for the motorcraft ones. I think I’ll just buy some 30mm M5 stainless and chop them down a bit. For sure just get the stock motorcraft plugs though I think is best.
Bolt size for anyone curious is M5 X 27mm
Yea definitely. I bought oem bolts, but painted the bolt heads and applied antiseize to the threads. That helps keep our moisture and I haven't had an issue so far.
@@TrickShiftGarage yeah these just look so rusty and dusty it’s my only ride so I don’t want to have to get a tow or something. I got a zip cutter I can make a 27” bolt. I’ll just replace them all. Plugs only got 51k on them but the new ones when they did them sure improved mileage on the highway I have a lot of travel coming up. Good old truck I’ll take care of her I really don’t want to be back wheeling and dealing at the stealer ship 🤣 $70k for a bronco nowadays 🇨🇦
Does it have to be a special 5/8 socket? Or will a regular one work?
You should really be using special spark plug sockets when removing spark plugs. They typically have a rubber boot inside.
@@TrickShiftGarage thanks. Bought one
No problem. Let me know how it goes brother!
@TrickShiftGarage i got one changed. Didn't think I'd be able to break the plug loose it was so tight. I think the last guy overtightened them. The others will have to wait lol bending over doing that is killer 🤣
Yea definitely be careful. And make sure you run your engine for about 5 minutes to help remove the ones that are harder to get off. That should allow things to loosen up a bit.
Thank you
Thanks for watching! 🤟
2018 f150 changing plug wire and cylinder 3 do you need to remove the high pressure fuel line
Hello Grey, so I was unaware of this issue. I revised the videos title from 2011-2023, to 2011-2017.
After researching, it does appear that you need to disconnect the fuel line around cylinder 3. I'm not sure if this works or not, but one guy mentioned to keep your driver door closed and open the passenger side to pop your hood. According to him, when you open the driver door, it will prime that high pressure fuel pump. So if you go through the passenger side, it should prevent fuel from just spilling out. He said he had a few drops and that was it.
I hope this helps, and I am sorry for the confusion.
Thanks
I have a 2017 f150 5.0. Any idea why my coil packs have a white clip on the electrical connections? All other videos I have watched the clips are red
I read in a forum someone say it's an updated design. Honestly, that makes sense because the red clips are terrible and break all the time. So maybe that's true.
what the tool called that you use removing in the coil packs?
Hello! That's called Coil Pack Pliers.
Here is a link for one if you are interested - amzn.to/3UPleS1
So the gen 1 and gen 2 coyote are the same for plugs?
Hello, I'm sorry for the really really late response! I didn't notice this comment until I got on my computer. But, after doing some research, one website said to torque the plugs on the 2015-2017 down to 10 ft. lbs and another said to torque them down to 12. If I had a 2015-2017, I would torque them down to 12 ft. lbs, since there aren't a ton of differences between the Gen 1 and Gen 2 coyote motors.
The Gen 3's are a completely different story though.
Again, I apologize for being so late on this. I'm not sure why this comment did not show up on my phone app, but I will try to get on my computer daily from now on to prevent missing these comments.
Slip a small flat head screw driver under the center of the connector and ease it up to disconnect the plug. Only takes a few oz of pressure and nothing breaks.
You forgot the cover. How do you remove it.
Do you mean the coil covers? Those just pull straight up.
so what happens if the electric connections break?
Mine have been broken for over a year now and nothing bad has come of it. But I will be doing a video on how to fix them so stay tuned! 🤟
No. Dialectic inhibits conductivity. It goes on the porcelain as a seal to prevent arc jump and not in the boot itself.
Been doing it for years and years. Zero issues.
Also, straight from google:
Spark plug protection: Dielectric grease can be applied sparingly to the inside of spark plug boots to prevent sparks from arcing.
@@TrickShiftGarage It's intended to fill any gap between the porcelain and the boot itself. Ideally, you wouldn't want to get any on the actual metal bulb or the clip inside the boot, as dielectric grease is NOT conductive. But as you said, most people assume it's conductive and pay no care to how it's applied, and it's unlikely to cause any issue. But the statement that it improves the connection is technically false.
You can also make the argument that it will help connectivity, because it prevents arcing.
@@TrickShiftGarage It prevents arcing between the clip inside the coil and the head, which is a pretty unusual circumstance, though I have seen it happen.
Dielectric grease is an insulator so you don't want it on the tip of the plug, so technically don't put it in the coil boot, put it on the white ceramic part of the plug. Will it make a difference if you put it in the boot - probably not, as it will be pushed aside when you seat the coil on the plug, but what the heck. If you do use anti-seize, use copper high temp anti-seize. Why, because the plugs are grounded by the threads, and you want a good ground.
Can you give my truck a tune up:)?
Lol sorry brother, I only work on my vehicles.
This has got to be the 7th video I've watched and none are showing the rubber inside the shaft where the plug sits. Not allowing me to reach the plug
I had no problem reaching the plug. Are you using the correct socket?
He’s right there is a rubber boot that is in the way on my 2013 f150
Do me a favor, take a picture and send it to me in an email.
Trickshiftgarage@gmail.com
I'm very curious about what you are both referring to. Seems to me like you have an issue with a coil pack, because once you remove it, the spark plug should be easily accessible.
@@TrickShiftGarage Apologies. Just finished replacing mine. You were correct, It ended up being a torn of piece of the ignition coil boot. I had to buy an extra long pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out. Then the 5/8 socket worked fine. My bad. Thanks for the informative video.
OK, no problem. I'm glad you got it figured out!
Spark plug grounds thru the threads. Applying antisieze to them can cause bad ground and faulty operation
Antiseize does not prevent spark plugs from grounding properly.
@@TrickShiftGarage it most certainly can
If the spark plug can thread into place, then the antiseize used will not prevent the spark plug from grounding.
Think about it: spark plugs aren't loose when you screw them in. What does that mean? It means the part or all of the threads are tight in the head. If it's tight, it's touching. Meaning: it's grounded properly.
You're supposed to blow out the plug well with air before you take out the plug😂😂
If it's dirty, yes. Mine was spotless.
These clowns who did the design should be fired!
Unfortunately, it's used on a ton of other Ford vehicles too. So many people break those clips.
But, there is a fix for it and I'll be doing a video on it soon, so stay tuned! 🤟
On the 2013, do the boots ever break off in the spark plug well and\or need replacing with the plug?
I've never had a boot break, but you should always inspect yours for cracks or wear. Eventually, the boots will need to be replaced. When they need to be replaced is a different question altogether. Some people can go hundreds of thousands of miles on the factory coil packs, others need to replace after 100k. So check yours thoroughly to make sure you don't run into issues later on.
@@TrickShiftGarage I got 190k on my boots. About to do my 2nd round of spark plugs and will just put new boots on at this point. Thanks
Anytime, let me know how it goes! 🤟