Another excellent video. If there’s anyone out there thinking that 3D printing is out of your range…please go look at the price of the Bambu A1 Mini. It’s an incredible machine that’s precise and easy to use. I avoided 3D printing for years, thinking it was pricey and a big hassle. No longer. Definitely going to print one of those powerpole panel mounts.
one thing i would suggest is put a DC circuit breaker on the hot side of the battery BEFORE the meter. obviously it should be suitably sized for the total load you are planning, but any short on the meter itself will directly short out the terminals of the battery. don't ask how i know LOL
I AGREE 100% BUT you size the fuse from the Battery (Source) to Protect the Wire from overload NOT the load! You size the wire from the (Source) to carry the Load!
@@barntt totally, but i would assume that the wire from the battery etc would be appropriately sized anyway for the load you expect to be pulling from it :D
You guys help me out here. The LiFePO4 BMS has built in short circuit protection. I understand a second breaker would be better but isn't the BMS protecting this already?
@@KM4ACK theoretically yes... but also, not necessarily.... it may be on the lower side to what the bms would trip at but still melt the wires and start a fire. i have a 100ah lifepo4 in the truck and a wrench fell off the toolbox onto it, blew the fuse but didnt trip the bms. this was while i was installing it so the terminals weren't protected yet
Great Job! I've got a smaller box with a 20Ah. I added a panel mount battery monitor with a shunt which has been very useful to monitor charge state and current draw. I also added a panel mount USB PD which I find handy. I just bought a 50Ah which I might use to make another box.
Nice battery box ! 100 AH . My 100 AH battery had nice handle so I just put power poles right on battery . I made one like that for a fellow camper and needed to run 12V cooler. About the same but mounted 12V accessory port right on case along with master disconnect switch and 1 anderson 50 amp port. Just what they wanted. I say build the battery box to fit your needs. My personal one is a lot different but works for my POTA setup ,Works great for me. With all them storms nocking the grid out ,Them LiFePO4 battery very handy !! 73
Hurricane Helene was one of the driving factors in building this bigger battery box. Never know when you might need it and the price of batteries has really come down in the last few years.
While you're probably good, that meter isn't drawing any current to speak of. Testing with a little current draw, a noticeable voltage drop would show up any unexpected resistance in your connections. Just lay a resistor across your meter leads. If using 1/8 watt resistors, then 1.5k or greater is safe (about 91mA).
I haven't completed my power box but I'm surprised that you didn't add a switch to turn off the power to the power pole plugs (and future meter). Now I need to figure out if my 100 amp hour lifepo 4 battery fits in the 3800.
Any idea what the difference is between the two 100ah minis listed on Amazon? Besides 5 bucks? I can't find it. Thanks! I'm getting back to 3D printing and doing it better than I was when we first met in Nashville. K1 Max is so much better than the Ender 3 machines I had back then! Still a sub and watching. Hope to see you in Orlando if you make it down.
It doesn't matter if the controller is in the box as o not as long as you have one.. I'm currently building a similar case but in a 4800 that I'll have a CV in it with choice of Anderson or SAE plug
Do those wattmeters really read in both directions? (Charging and discharging?) I was under the impression you may get current through them going back from load to source, but the cumulative watt-hours wouldn't "count down"...in other words subtract from the previous total going from source to load. I'll be real interested to see if they work that way! Nice project!
This one won't count down but some do. I will have to reverse the power meter when charging. The "source" will be plugged into the side coming from the panel and the battery will be the load during charging.
I put foam on the bottom of the case and PACKED foam on three sides. Additional friction is created by the foam in the top of the case when it's closed. I've tested it and it hasn't moved around from rough handling but it may very well shift a bit if you dropped the case just right.
So many of these boxes get built WITHOUT the safety fuse...How many fires happened because of no Catastrophic fuse at the battery,. Shouldn't matter what type of battery is used put the Catastrophic fuse in, Its the first line of Protection!
I’d 3D print some terminal covers for the battery. Could be a simple box with a hole for the terminal to go through, double sided tape to the battery and then a sliding cover. Include a slot for the wire to exit.
Think about that meter you are going to install for a second. You really think that can handle 200 amps? 🤦 And what size wire are the jumpers coming off of it? Plan accordingly.
Your build looks like you are using a Chinese fuse block and fuses. There have been a number of foreign fuses put to the test on RUclips and they failed miserably to open under their rated load. Do yourself and your audience a favor and replace the fuses with name brand US sourced fuses !!
Thank you for providing a link to the 3d printer files, I have wanted to be able to do this for years.
Another excellent video. If there’s anyone out there thinking that 3D printing is out of your range…please go look at the price of the Bambu A1 Mini. It’s an incredible machine that’s precise and easy to use. I avoided 3D printing for years, thinking it was pricey and a big hassle. No longer. Definitely going to print one of those powerpole panel mounts.
one thing i would suggest is put a DC circuit breaker on the hot side of the battery BEFORE the meter. obviously it should be suitably sized for the total load you are planning, but any short on the meter itself will directly short out the terminals of the battery. don't ask how i know LOL
I AGREE 100% BUT you size the fuse from the Battery (Source) to Protect the Wire from overload NOT the load! You size the wire from the (Source) to carry the Load!
@@barntt totally, but i would assume that the wire from the battery etc would be appropriately sized anyway for the load you expect to be pulling from it :D
You guys help me out here. The LiFePO4 BMS has built in short circuit protection. I understand a second breaker would be better but isn't the BMS protecting this already?
@@KM4ACK theoretically yes... but also, not necessarily.... it may be on the lower side to what the bms would trip at but still melt the wires and start a fire. i have a 100ah lifepo4 in the truck and a wrench fell off the toolbox onto it, blew the fuse but didnt trip the bms. this was while i was installing it so the terminals weren't protected yet
@@KM4ACK i certainly wouldn't reply solely on the BMS
I'm shocked that someone isn't making 3D printed classic mount plugs as much as the Powerwerx ones are.
Great Job! I've got a smaller box with a 20Ah. I added a panel mount battery monitor with a shunt which has been very useful to monitor charge state and current draw. I also added a panel mount USB PD which I find handy. I just bought a 50Ah which I might use to make another box.
Nice battery box ! 100 AH . My 100 AH battery had nice handle so I just put power poles right on battery . I made one like that for a fellow camper and needed to run 12V cooler. About the same but mounted 12V accessory port right on case along with master disconnect switch and 1 anderson 50 amp port. Just what they wanted. I say build the battery box to fit your needs. My personal one is a lot different but works for my POTA setup ,Works great for me. With all them storms nocking the grid out ,Them LiFePO4 battery very handy !! 73
Hurricane Helene was one of the driving factors in building this bigger battery box. Never know when you might need it and the price of batteries has really come down in the last few years.
Great project!
Thank you!
You can always wire in a Drock / Droke battery meter. They are panel mounted, fairly inexpiensive, and very good!
Great build but like some other comments I think you may want to revisit your wire gauge between the battery and the fuse block.
What size wire did you use between battery and fuse block?
Excellent!! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I take it you can use any of the 4 anderson ports to charge the battery?
While you're probably good, that meter isn't drawing any current to speak of. Testing with a little current draw, a noticeable voltage drop would show up any unexpected resistance in your connections. Just lay a resistor across your meter leads. If using 1/8 watt resistors, then 1.5k or greater is safe (about 91mA).
I haven't completed my power box but I'm surprised that you didn't add a switch to turn off the power to the power pole plugs (and future meter). Now I need to figure out if my 100 amp hour lifepo 4 battery fits in the 3800.
I wanted to avoid using a switch and will disconnect the battery from the meter instead when not in use
What charger do you use when not using solar ?
(Love the build ! )
This amzn.to/4f40lf7 is the one that I just picked up and would work well to charge this pack in roughly 5 hours (affiliate link)
Any idea what the difference is between the two 100ah minis listed on Amazon? Besides 5 bucks? I can't find it. Thanks! I'm getting back to 3D printing and doing it better than I was when we first met in Nashville. K1 Max is so much better than the Ender 3 machines I had back then! Still a sub and watching. Hope to see you in Orlando if you make it down.
Quality build thanks for sharing well protected in that case. Some potentially useful space within for spare fuses / cables maybe ?. 73's 🇬🇧🍺🇺🇸
Wouldn't you need a charge controller in order to back-charge the battery through the PowerPoles?
Yes. The charge controllers are kept with the panels in my setup
It doesn't matter if the controller is in the box as o not as long as you have one.. I'm currently building a similar case but in a 4800 that I'll have a CV in it with choice of Anderson or SAE plug
Can you provide a link for the 3d printed power pole mounts?
www.yeggi.com/q/power+pole+panel+mount/
@@KM4ACK Thank you!
Do those wattmeters really read in both directions? (Charging and discharging?) I was under the impression you may get current through them going back from load to source, but the cumulative watt-hours wouldn't "count down"...in other words subtract from the previous total going from source to load. I'll be real interested to see if they work that way! Nice project!
This one won't count down but some do. I will have to reverse the power meter when charging. The "source" will be plugged into the side coming from the panel and the battery will be the load during charging.
Nice build! 73
Thank you! Cheers!
How are you going to charge your battery?
Solar most of the time.
How did you hold the battery in the box so it doesn't shit while being moved?
I'm sure he's got it potty trained! 😅
"I'm sure he's got it potty trained!" 😂😂😂
I put foam on the bottom of the case and PACKED foam on three sides. Additional friction is created by the foam in the top of the case when it's closed. I've tested it and it hasn't moved around from rough handling but it may very well shift a bit if you dropped the case just right.
Get a less scared battery that won't shit during transport😊
So many of these boxes get built WITHOUT the safety fuse...How many fires happened because of no Catastrophic fuse at the battery,. Shouldn't matter what type of battery is used put the Catastrophic fuse in, Its the first line of Protection!
I’d 3D print some terminal covers for the battery. Could be a simple box with a hole for the terminal to go through, double sided tape to the battery and then a sliding cover. Include a slot for the wire to exit.
Think about that meter you are going to install for a second. You really think that can handle 200 amps? 🤦 And what size wire are the jumpers coming off of it? Plan accordingly.
Your build looks like you are using a Chinese fuse block and fuses. There have been a number of foreign fuses put to the test on RUclips and they failed miserably to open under their rated load. Do yourself and your audience a favor and replace the fuses with name brand US sourced fuses !!
Chinese fuse block, yes. Chinese fuses, NO! I've seen the same videos. Ditched all of the no name fuses in several boxes and replaced with good fuses.