That explains why my abs started freaking out after a shop did a repair in the same area... I asked them and they were "certain" it wasn't anything they broke. Then they charged me to diagnose the problem and wanted another $350 to repair it. My vsc freaked out and locked up on the freeway almost killing me, and ruining my brake rotors/pads and destroying parts of my suspension. I asked them if the car would be 100% fixed guaranteed after this next repair and they said no. This was all after spending almost $2k on a steering rack / tie rod and new tire, wheel / alignment and more after a lazy construction site let their debris roll out into the road. I was driving in fog so thick you couldn't see more than 3 feet ahead, the time was 2 am and I was on my way to work a 15 hour shift at the fish market I work at for Christmas Eve. Thing ruined my whole right front end and I've been fixing it ever since. Construction refused to pay me a dime, and the shop strung me along for all I was worth. I ended up just pulling the fuse for all my abs / traction control / vsc and that's got it fixed for now. I almost don't want to turn that crap back on after it almost got me killed on the freeway... But it's also saved me in the ice once before. I've got 0 tools and 0 experience, but I've been doing all my own repairs ever since then (with the help of some friends and RUclips)
What you need to torque the bolts too? The main castle nut on the bottom center, I believe it’s a 22mm, it needs to be tightened to 109 ft-lbs, and then the cotter pin to lock it in place, the other 2 bolts coming from below, they are 17mm and my ball joint can e with new bolts for these 2, they need to be loctite, my new ones had this pre installed on the threads, then they need to be tightened as far as you can go with a “12 wrench, and that’ll be plenty. If you don’t have new bolts, make sure to clean the old loctite off the threads before reusing them. Then the tie-rod end needs to be torqued to 64 ft-lbs, i couldn’t get my “1/2 torque wrench to fit into the wheel well to tighten this bolt, I have a 3:8 torque wrench that was short enough to work, but it was still kind of an odd angle for torquing a bolt. With the cotter pin, so it’s probably not a big deal if you are using your built it torque wrench
Thank you. Nice detailed demo. The dreaded creaking sound before they give out is stressful. I’m about to change mine for the 2nd time. The original (genuine) ones lasted up until ~170,000km, I replaced them with after market (non-genuine). My car is now just above ~250,000km and creaking badly - hopefully install the spares this weekend.
Dang that's alot faster than what I've seen alot of people doing. They take off the caliper and rotor and the whole knuckle even separating the top ball joint to do this.
Yeah I am glad also because yesterday I was driving on the road and the ball joint came off and I went skirting off the road but thank God I wasn’t driving on the freeway tho
I should have followed your advice and got the tie rod puller, lazy me I tried getting the tie rod out with a hammer (which didn't work) and now I'm replacing the tie rod ends as well. Plus the puller ended up working on the ball joint when the pickle fork wouldn't.
Having a hard time getting the knuckle off. Took off the two supporting bolts but that knuckle won’t budge! Pretty sure it’s due to all the rust. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Trying everything right now.
my steering is a bit loose with a bit of slop in it (1999 toyota altezza as200, 288,000km's) so this is probably my problem..? also feels like it bump steers a tiny bit. and sometimes feels like the steering is magically a bit better or a bit worse. had four new tyres fitted along with a wheel alignment a few years ago, steering felt worse afterwards. took it back and they said the alignment was off already and all but accused me of hitting a curb, lol. surely they would have noticed the play in the ball joint though? i guess not. just rushing through it probably not paying much attention. you would think on the second visit they would have had a closer look though. its getting quite bad though so i think i will have to have a proper look at it myself and replace them if they are the culprit. not looking forward to it though.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech can you do how to change transmission and lsd diff fluids on the is300? Maybe more suspension stuff please. Huge thanks in advance.
Excellent video, thanks! I just replaced the rack and pinion and they won't do an alignment due to both uppers and one lower ball joint needing replaced. This video will be a big help. And thanks for the links to the OE Ball Joints. I couldn't find the upper control arms with ball joints on Amazon. I'd like to stay OE but not seeing them. Not many if any good videos on the rack and pinion. I tried to do a video, but you can barely hear me. I've never posted a video, much less edit one. So look forward to yours. Thanks again!
Thanks for checking out the video, I'm glad I could help.Post the Rack video I would love to check it out. Here are the part numbers for the upper control arms, I get a kick back from amazon if you buy anything if you click one of the links, it helps support the channel for future videos. Thanks again .
Thanks, The lowers I'll be sure click the link for Amazon. (How did you set that up, if you don't mind me asking?) The uppers I'll have to go after market, they're a bit out of my budget and pretty soon I'll have more money in the car than I bought the car for. lol But I went with AAE rack n pinion as they are new and seem to be of high quality. Lexus wanted $1,700 just for the rack. lol
Thanks for this video I have a 04 IS w/ 170k mil and going to change tierods, LCA, and lower ball joints. Im getting a single clunk when the car comes to a dead stop. Like the momentum from braking moving forward shifting back causes a single clunk. I cant exactly pin point it.
Tyson Tran is it an automatic? And if so do you use e shift? If so the clunk could be the infamous is downshift into second clunk. If that’s the case it’s normal!
A will ruclips.net/video/UgsRDXU6Bkk/видео.html This is a video of the clunk. In the video it happens twice. Once when the car comes to a complete stand still and I let the car roll back a little and when it comes to a dead stop it happens again.
Thanks Aaron, the balljoints are the big one, other than that its probably the melting dash . I've got a couple more videos on the is300, check out the play list. Thanks again.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech ok, awesome. This looks easy enough. Mine is a 2001 with 138,000 miles and in the last 6 months I've been stranded twice, 1st by a bad temp sensor causing the radiator to blow and 2nd by a faulty variable ignition solenoid or maybe it's called the cam timing valve. Just trying to find out the other easy to replace/repair common faults so my IS remains reliable :-D
Aaron LeBauer engine check will come up, common ones are Catalytic converter/oxygen sensor, fuel canister, leaks on cam seals valve covers etc. It all depends on who the previous owner was. Great cars and reliable
I needa remove my ballpoints but their new because I’m changing that front control arm / alignment arm where the ballpoint sits can I use the tie rod puller ?
I just did my ball joints control arms and tie rods about 2 months back. It’s a 2003 is300 with 125k. So It started making a creeping noise when I got slow around turns. It won’t do it if I’m parked and turn the wheel it’s just if I’m in drive moving. Iam new to the Lexus. Can anyone please point me in the right direction.
My is 300 just hit 227k miles on the odometer pretty much everything inside the engine redone and developed a massive vibration and clunking sound and now a higher pitch squeaking I guess you could say is that the control arm or ball joints can feel vibration in steering wheel and rack has been changed lower control arm changes on both sides lower ball joint has not been changed could this bee the issue all around? Anyone know
Nvm i used the same one i got for the tie rod end i just had to destroy the boot lol. other than that super easy this video made me do it!!! thanks bro
@@Donnythelatemodeltech If I'm not mistaken, (and i'm sure you already know this) you can get the upper control arms with ball joints already attached or pressed in. I can't seem to find the OEM ones on Amazon though.
It's very possible, I ve got a brake video coming g out tomorrow and next weekend a headlamp leveling malfunction the weekend after. Then swaybars and check engine light video. Thanks for the Sub! I really appreciate it. Any and all input is welcome.
Your going to need an alignment now. Duralast are not exact copys of your oem. You didn't do anything wrong more than likely. I use Oem balljoints in the video .
What noise was the other side making? Both my tires wear on the insides but the left front over every bump sounds and feels like metal to metal and in reverse sounds like grinding. Any suggestions
The sounds to me , might be the fender liner rubbing the wheel. Reverse grinding noise could be the brake pads, the dust shield touching the rotor. You just got to get in there and look.
@@HooyahPeacock Thanks for watching, I accidentally erased your last comment. I've actually recorded 4 more is300 videos, I just haven't had the time to edit them . Most likely g35 videos will be next because they're really short and easy to edit. Thanks again for the support , and let me know if you need anything.
That is stupid. Why would you remove the ABS sensor? Those blinking lights and lit up icons on your dash are not good things to have on you're car, you know that right?
That is stupid. Why would you remove the ABS sensor? Those blinking lights and lit up icons on your dash are not good things to have on you're car, you know that right?
PSA - be careful to NOT break your ABS speed sensor. They're $150+ each and easy to break in this operation.
That explains why my abs started freaking out after a shop did a repair in the same area... I asked them and they were "certain" it wasn't anything they broke. Then they charged me to diagnose the problem and wanted another $350 to repair it. My vsc freaked out and locked up on the freeway almost killing me, and ruining my brake rotors/pads and destroying parts of my suspension. I asked them if the car would be 100% fixed guaranteed after this next repair and they said no. This was all after spending almost $2k on a steering rack / tie rod and new tire, wheel / alignment and more after a lazy construction site let their debris roll out into the road. I was driving in fog so thick you couldn't see more than 3 feet ahead, the time was 2 am and I was on my way to work a 15 hour shift at the fish market I work at for Christmas Eve. Thing ruined my whole right front end and I've been fixing it ever since. Construction refused to pay me a dime, and the shop strung me along for all I was worth. I ended up just pulling the fuse for all my abs / traction control / vsc and that's got it fixed for now. I almost don't want to turn that crap back on after it almost got me killed on the freeway... But it's also saved me in the ice once before.
I've got 0 tools and 0 experience, but I've been doing all my own repairs ever since then (with the help of some friends and RUclips)
My sensor came on. Now I gotta replace it?
So glad I found a fellow IS300 owner with the same exact problem.
I'm here for ya
I have a creaking when backing up in the morning both sides would that be the lower ball joints?
Very common issue with the IS platform
If you’re gonna do the ball joints up front, go ahead and do the sway bar end links. Cheap and easy and definitely worth it
👍
Mate u make this look easy im just doing my in my altezza and hopefully after lockdown I can fix it properly
What you need to torque the bolts too? The main castle nut on the bottom center, I believe it’s a 22mm, it needs to be tightened to 109 ft-lbs, and then the cotter pin to lock it in place, the other 2 bolts coming from below, they are 17mm and my ball joint can e with new bolts for these 2, they need to be loctite, my new ones had this pre installed on the threads, then they need to be tightened as far as you can go with a “12 wrench, and that’ll be plenty. If you don’t have new bolts, make sure to clean the old loctite off the threads before reusing them. Then the tie-rod end needs to be torqued to 64 ft-lbs, i couldn’t get my “1/2 torque wrench to fit into the wheel well to tighten this bolt, I have a 3:8 torque wrench that was short enough to work, but it was still kind of an odd angle for torquing a bolt. With the cotter pin, so it’s probably not a big deal if you are using your built it torque wrench
The ball joint on my IS popped off while on the freeway.. scary stuff. What’s the torque specs on the nuts? Great video
Duggah duggah
The torque setting is apparently what the impact was giving
Right lol waiting on the torque specs
@@dang3554 mf used red lock tight and went crazy with the impact. rip to whoever does the ball joints next 💀
It’s fine…. Yall babies
Maybe I should do that to my is300 too, it has 255,000 miles on it and I had it when the car was 84,000 miles on it. This video is very helpful
Thank you. Nice detailed demo. The dreaded creaking sound before they give out is stressful. I’m about to change mine for the 2nd time. The original (genuine) ones lasted up until ~170,000km, I replaced them with after market (non-genuine). My car is now just above ~250,000km and creaking badly - hopefully install the spares this weekend.
Mark Milanes is that what that creaking sound is in the morning when I back the car up?
Although this video is old the torque specs are... Tie Rod castle nut: 43lbs LBJ assembly bolts: 83lbs LBJ castle nut: 119lbs
Dang that's alot faster than what I've seen alot of people doing. They take off the caliper and rotor and the whole knuckle even separating the top ball joint to do this.
Yeah I am glad also because yesterday I was driving on the road and the ball joint came off and I went skirting off the road but thank God I wasn’t driving on the freeway tho
Dude. Girlfriend has exact same model and making serious noise. Thanks for the video
I should have followed your advice and got the tie rod puller, lazy me I tried getting the tie rod out with a hammer (which didn't work) and now I'm replacing the tie rod ends as well. Plus the puller ended up working on the ball joint when the pickle fork wouldn't.
Having a hard time getting the knuckle off. Took off the two supporting bolts but that knuckle won’t budge! Pretty sure it’s due to all the rust. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Trying everything right now.
Hey is there anything else you should have replaced while you were at it?
Exactly the same as mine!! Just had my ball joints done
my steering is a bit loose with a bit of slop in it (1999 toyota altezza as200, 288,000km's) so this is probably my problem..? also feels like it bump steers a tiny bit. and sometimes feels like the steering is magically a bit better or a bit worse. had four new tyres fitted along with a wheel alignment a few years ago, steering felt worse afterwards. took it back and they said the alignment was off already and all but accused me of hitting a curb, lol. surely they would have noticed the play in the ball joint though? i guess not. just rushing through it probably not paying much attention. you would think on the second visit they would have had a closer look though. its getting quite bad though so i think i will have to have a proper look at it myself and replace them if they are the culprit. not looking forward to it though.
My lower ball joint came with 2 new bolts and a small screw, what’s the screw for? Oem joint didn’t have one
Got myself a gs300 and going to be doing this soon , A1 video💯
Nice, I've got 1 or 2 gs300 vids , afew more is300 if interested.
Awesome sir, you're definitely helping me out with your vids.
🤙
Got any requests?
@@Donnythelatemodeltech can you do how to change transmission and lsd diff fluids on the is300? Maybe more suspension stuff please. Huge thanks in advance.
Great video but why tighten it all with the impact? It takes an extra 3 minutes to torque them down properly...
Lazy, I guess
Sweet ! I fellow Is300 owner 🙌🏽 , thanks for the help I just subbed!
so wait, with the oem part theres no greese fitting to fill it after done installing? i thought ur supposed to fill them after your done
already has grease inside of them
Great video good angles and excellent advice thank you
Excellent video, thanks! I just replaced the rack and pinion and they won't do an alignment due to both uppers and one lower ball joint needing replaced. This video will be a big help. And thanks for the links to the OE Ball Joints. I couldn't find the upper control arms with ball joints on Amazon. I'd like to stay OE but not seeing them.
Not many if any good videos on the rack and pinion. I tried to do a video, but you can barely hear me. I've never posted a video, much less edit one. So look forward to yours.
Thanks again!
Lexus 48610-59025 amzn.to/2GscrkQ
Lexus 48630-59025 amzn.to/2XctCfq
Thanks for checking out the video, I'm glad I could help.Post the Rack video I would love to check it out. Here are the part numbers for the upper control arms, I get a kick back from amazon if you buy anything if you click one of the links, it helps support the channel for future videos. Thanks again .
Thanks, The lowers I'll be sure click the link for Amazon. (How did you set that up, if you don't mind me asking?) The uppers I'll have to go after market, they're a bit out of my budget and pretty soon I'll have more money in the car than I bought the car for. lol But I went with AAE rack n pinion as they are new and seem to be of high quality. Lexus wanted $1,700 just for the rack. lol
affiliate-program.amazon.com/welcome
The application requirements might be a struggle , if you dont have a strong social medical footprint.
Thanks for this video I have a 04 IS w/ 170k mil and going to change tierods, LCA, and lower ball joints.
Im getting a single clunk when the car comes to a dead stop. Like the momentum from braking moving forward shifting back causes a single clunk. I cant exactly pin point it.
I'm going to start pressing out the front bushings very soon.
My is clunking its butt off also, it's probably the lower control arm bushings.
Tyson Tran is it an automatic? And if so do you use e shift? If so the clunk could be the infamous is downshift into second clunk. If that’s the case it’s normal!
A will it’s a 5sp
A will ruclips.net/video/UgsRDXU6Bkk/видео.html
This is a video of the clunk. In the video it happens twice. Once when the car comes to a complete stand still and I let the car roll back a little and when it comes to a dead stop it happens again.
Great video and instruction!!! what else is a common failure on these cars that should be inspected or replaced?
Thanks Aaron, the balljoints are the big one, other than that its probably the melting dash . I've got a couple more videos on the is300, check out the play list. Thanks again.
Oh, the catalyst failure is super common.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech ok, awesome. This looks easy enough. Mine is a 2001 with 138,000 miles and in the last 6 months I've been stranded twice, 1st by a bad temp sensor causing the radiator to blow and 2nd by a faulty variable ignition solenoid or maybe it's called the cam timing valve. Just trying to find out the other easy to replace/repair common faults so my IS remains reliable :-D
Aaron LeBauer engine check will come up, common ones are Catalytic converter/oxygen sensor, fuel canister, leaks on cam seals valve covers etc. It all depends on who the previous owner was. Great cars and reliable
Thanks man my 01 is300 just started whining when I turn and I googled it and seen your video I don't wanna lose my fuckin front end ;!
You made it look easy.. sweet.. what kind of impact tool was that.. I want!
Gonna watch all your vids guy. Thank you.! Love Lexus..
Its a snapon one
he actually starts working on it right around 4:20
How many miles would you say the oem ball joints last?
I needa remove my ballpoints but their new because I’m changing that front control arm / alignment arm where the ballpoint sits can I use the tie rod puller ?
Slicker than spit. Great job. I wish I had those extra tools and Id do mines myself.
Nevermind that ^. I just saw the tools you have and a quick search before then myself saw the same type of tools. Now I have the confidence to do it.
Nice XJ. I actually sold my XJ to get my is300 😂
Damn bro thnx for the vid. I thiught it was muh harder gona be doing mine tomorrow
The puller tool will make it a breeze. Your Very much welcome. And thanks for the support.!
Great video! Very detailed. Keep up the good work. (:
I have a GS 300 03 and I still wonder why they put the same engine and front end on that car as mine, which is a bigger car.
Dude that inner tierod is shot too
👍
my is makes a groaning noise turning with brakes applied ball joints going out?
Caster number two bushing wears out causing more stress on the ball joint which it breaks.
What are the torque specs on those nuts please?
Ugga dugga homie
What is that blue tube u using ? Where can I find it?
I just did my ball joints control arms and tie rods about 2 months back. It’s a 2003 is300 with 125k. So It started making a creeping noise when I got slow around turns. It won’t do it if I’m parked and turn the wheel it’s just if I’m in drive moving. Iam new to the Lexus. Can anyone please point me in the right direction.
Very detailed video.💯 👌👌
Amazon sells oem ball joints?
My is 300 just hit 227k miles on the odometer pretty much everything inside the engine redone and developed a massive vibration and clunking sound and now a higher pitch squeaking I guess you could say is that the control arm or ball joints can feel vibration in steering wheel and rack has been changed lower control arm changes on both sides lower ball joint has not been changed could this bee the issue all around? Anyone know
is your brake shield bent to prevent the annoying noise??
pong status what annoying noise?
It's not bent, that's how they suppose to be lol
It's not bent, that's how they suppose to be lol
Is the 2005 GS 300 the same as this car? The dealer wants a ton of money to replace them.
Pretty much
Fucking Amazing quality Video bro gonna do these myself thanks to you
Thanks for the info 👍
No problem 👍
How u know they are bad and u need to change them?
Good stuff
Torque settings?? And what impact is that?
The tie rod outer is 40lbs feet, lower ball is 91lbs feet, and the ball joint to steering knuckle twin bolts are 83lbs feet.
The tie rod outer is 40lbs feet, lower ball is 91lbs feet, and the ball joint to steering knuckle twin bolts are 83lbs feet.
@@TheHa11jesseIt's 43lb for Tie rod castle nut, Ball joint bolts 83lbs, Ball joint castle nut 119lbs
Whats the torque settings on the tie rods castle nuts and the ball joints?
GNT
TheLateModelTech GNT?
TheLateModelTech what’s GNT?
@@nurzat0601 good n tight
TheLateModelTech lol alright thanks
Hey I did the replacement and my abs is on and trac off is blinking any idea where I went wrong
Check in the speed sensor wiring. Its probably un plugged.
Thanks bro
Great video 👍🏽👍🏽
I'll be doing this soon. No issues yet, but I'm at 156k on a 2005
They like to go with out warning, so be careful. Thanks for watching.
160k, doing this now
anybody know what size pick ford to take off the ball joint holding it onto the control arm? not the tie rod end side
Nvm i used the same one i got for the tie rod end i just had to destroy the boot lol. other than that super easy this video made me do it!!! thanks bro
Some people say you need a press ? What is it for ?
Pressing bushings,upper balljoints. Not lower ball joints.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech If I'm not mistaken, (and i'm sure you already know this) you can get the upper control arms with ball joints already attached or pressed in.
I can't seem to find the OEM ones on Amazon though.
Lexus 48610-59025 amzn.to/2GscrkQ
Lexus 48630-59025 amzn.to/2XctCfq
thanks buddy! subbed
Do you plan on doing a timing belt video in the future?
It's very possible, I ve got a brake video coming g out tomorrow and next weekend a headlamp leveling malfunction the weekend after. Then swaybars and check engine light video. Thanks for the Sub! I really appreciate it. Any and all input is welcome.
Good
Thanks
I did the ball joint replacement and one of my wheels is turned while the other one is straight wat did i do wrong
Oem ball joints ?
@@Donnythelatemodeltech i dont think so they are duralast ball joings from autozone
Your going to need an alignment now. Duralast are not exact copys of your oem. You didn't do anything wrong more than likely. I use Oem balljoints in the video .
@@Donnythelatemodeltech thanks
Should do rear wheel bearing diy
Will do, if I can get them cheap.
I have a new one with hub you can have.
Awesome thanks my shit was already wobbling when I drive at 40 mph
is this why my car was shaking when I came to a stop then ?
Second Take no that’s you running out of gas you bum
Second Take that’s ur rotors. U need new ones.
So what are those torque specs.
91ft/lbs for oem ball joints castle nut and the 17mm two bolt to the knuckle are 83 ft/lbs
YOu should have told us whats the symptoms to look for that tells you that we need to change the ball joint
Creaking from the front end is usually the first sign along with inconsistent steering feel. I’m up to my 3rd set of ball joints.
Good man- OEM ball joints. Only a fool buys anything else.
I have a 2003 Lexus GS 300 sport design and mine has 345000 miles. I’m the 8th owner. 😂
What the Torque Spec for all the bolts applied?
The tie rod outer is 40lbs feet, lower ball is 91lbs feet, and the ball joint to steering knuckle twin bolts are 83lbs feet.
The tie rod outer is 40lbs feet, lower ball is 91lbs feet, and the ball joint to steering knuckle twin bolts are 83lbs feet.
I think you said uh a million times.
I'm actively trying not to say uh, now. Lol🤙
Looks like your inner tie rod is bad
i hit a pothole at night and my steering now grinds and squeaks, i’m thinking its the balljoints
It could be , it could be anything thing down there.
turns out it’s the ball joints!
awesome video i just sub to you ^_^
Thanks for the support!
Ugga dugga
whos watching in 2022??
🤷♂️
80 dollars each? I don’t think so
220k... car only half way used for a Toyota
Hope so! Lol
I've seen them with 417k on them and only needed the timing belt and just general stuff never any major issues.
What noise was the other side making? Both my tires wear on the insides but the left front over every bump sounds and feels like metal to metal and in reverse sounds like grinding. Any suggestions
The sounds to me , might be the fender liner rubbing the wheel. Reverse grinding noise could be the brake pads, the dust shield touching the rotor. You just got to get in there and look.
@@HooyahPeacock Thanks for watching, I accidentally erased your last comment. I've actually recorded 4 more is300 videos, I just haven't had the time to edit them . Most likely g35 videos will be next because they're really short and easy to edit. Thanks again for the support , and let me know if you need anything.
Please dear God remove the abs sensor!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is stupid. Why would you remove the ABS sensor? Those blinking lights and lit up icons on your dash are not good things to have on you're car, you know that right?
That is stupid. Why would you remove the ABS sensor? Those blinking lights and lit up icons on your dash are not good things to have on you're car, you know that right?
Jessy H I think he means when he is working on it, which is a good idea as it can get in the way. It takes less than 10 seconds anyways
Get toy the damn point already
You talk to much your not professional teacher mechanic
Good man- OEM ball joints. Only a fool buys anything else.