It's been for sale for a year now ;-) It's really in depth for sure. That's how I make all of my Instructional Videos I sell. I try to always put everything into them so that it can help as many people as possible. www.rcrchery.com/instructional-video-series-dvd
The best, most in depth information, I save for my Instructional Videos like the one I took this segment from. All of them can be found here: www.rcrchery.com/instructional-video-series-dvd
Glad to help! Using them can be a pain and make you feel worse if they're not set up correctly for sure. But when they are, it's so much simpler to aim and hold.
Thank you. All you videos are well done and incredibly informative. A generous sharing of knowledge. For someone is is outfitting a new target bow, what collection of stabilizer components would you recommend ordering? I am thinking 30" bar, 12 inch bar, 10 degree disconnect, a lower rear attachment, and some weights (How many?) . A good starter list would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Sounds like you have a good starting point now for sure. Brands depend on what you're wanting to spend. My personal favorite and what I'm using now is Conquest Archery. I'm a dealer for them too if you go that route. I'll get you a discount code. I'd recommend about 20 ounces in weight to start out with. You'll want to start light and work up in weight to find what you can tolerate without losing sight picture steadiness.
Total weight for my bow is around the mid eight pound range I believe. Mass weight just needs to be matched with holding weight during shot execution. That's a different number than just holding weight at full draw on a draw board though. My holding weight on a draw board is 13 pounds, but when my shot breaks it's around 17-18. If you have a buzzy and busy sight picture that darts around with big movements, this can mean you need more mass weight. If you have a slow, wavy sight picture where the bow feels very heavy and hard to move the pin/dot back to the middle, this can mean you have too much mass weight.
You'll want to check with your organization(s) first to see if they have any peak weight maximum limits. Beyond that, you'll want to find the weight you can comfortably dominate throughout the entire shooting round/day without ever tiring.
You're welcome. I honestly don't remember for sure on the HyperEdge, but I can tell you that it'll be different for each archer. For me I run a pretty solid 1 to 2 ratio normally on my bars. That's just always what balances best to me. It gives me a slight downward lean at brace and helps me stay active on my shot. Your holding weight will make a big difference too, and it's not just the holding weight with the stops just touching, it'll be your shot execution holding weight. Meaning how hard you're pulling to steady your pin and execute. If you pull harder, you'll want more overall weight. On my Prevail I have 8 ounces on the front bar and 16 on the back bar with a 30/10 set up using a ten degree down connection up front.
Thanks again! I use front weight times bar length divided by rear bar length to get weight on rear bar. I may try 12 inch back bar and see how it holds. Trying to get it out of bottom 9 ring (6 o'clock ). So running 5 on front, 15 on back
A lot of people run a 1:3 ratio on their bars so you may find that helps. If not I'd look at your form and shoulders more specifically on what's causing you to have a low hold.
i am lookin at two different bow hoyt helix ultra and the rx3 ultra i am a 32 inch draw and shoot target only my draw weight is 70# which bow do you suggest i have not shot a bow in 20 years want to get back into it
I shoot the Helix Ultra, but really the question is with these hunting bows is how much do you want to spend. Speed is advertised as being the same. Also if your only going to be shooting targets you wont need the full 70 pound draw weight.
If you're a target only shooter I would use a target bow instead of a hunting bow. Look into a PSE PerformX or PSE Supra Focus and start at 60 pounds draw weight. These bows put a lot of speed out already and the added draw weight won't be needed.
I know this video is over 2 yrs old so I don't know if you'll see this comment. My daughter is a right handed shooter but I've had to place her back stabilizer on the right side of the riser to get her bubble in the middle during her shot cycle. Isn't that pretty uncommon?
It's not the norm for sure but I've seen it be done. Chris Bee was a big proponent of this set up for a long time. I believe he's got his back bar on the left now. It may be necessary depending on her bow arm and the pronation/supination she has. It could be the grip being too vertical too though. I'd check that first. If it works for her and her form is good, then I wouldn't be too worried.
Just bought a stabilizer. Definealy a "feeling" accessory. Weights and lengths are variable. Installing the stabilizer each time I unpack my bow is a chore. My Pro Shop is not the reach out and help you kind. So many variables to consider to improve accuracy and each one can make things worse.
I'm fairly new to the archery world so, hopefully somebody here will be able to help me with the following question: How do professional archers compensate for the heavy back bar (usually on the left )of their bows? I' imagine that bar ( and its weights ) is heavier than the sight they use (which is usually located on the oposite side). Most of the pros I've seen shoot a front and a single back stabilizer only (e.g NOT a V-mount). Thanks
You adjust to create a slight offset to hold against or to balance out the natural cant of the bow imparted by the way the forearm bones twist inside the arm.
I’m glad you’re back in 2023
This is the best explanation on how to set up stabilizers! Well done!! You do a great job on your videos!
Thank you very much!
Awesome! Been waiting for this video a long time. Literally the only one out there that explains everything. Thanks man😊
It's been for sale for a year now ;-)
It's really in depth for sure. That's how I make all of my Instructional Videos I sell. I try to always put everything into them so that it can help as many people as possible.
www.rcrchery.com/instructional-video-series-dvd
THANK YOU, for such an in depth and informative video. Always looking forward to the next one
The best, most in depth information, I save for my Instructional Videos like the one I took this segment from. All of them can be found here: www.rcrchery.com/instructional-video-series-dvd
You're welcome! I appreciate you watching!
I just worked through this in my basement. I solved so much in just an hour. Thank you!
That's great!!
Just got started with long bars, never shot with one until now. Appreciate the vid, learning as I go!
Glad to help! Using them can be a pain and make you feel worse if they're not set up correctly for sure. But when they are, it's so much simpler to aim and hold.
Sent you a PM on AT
Thanks! Great video. Alot of good info.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you. All you videos are well done and incredibly informative. A generous sharing of knowledge. For someone is is outfitting a new target bow, what collection of stabilizer components would you recommend ordering? I am thinking 30" bar, 12 inch bar, 10 degree disconnect, a lower rear attachment, and some weights (How many?) . A good starter list would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Sounds like you have a good starting point now for sure. Brands depend on what you're wanting to spend. My personal favorite and what I'm using now is Conquest Archery. I'm a dealer for them too if you go that route. I'll get you a discount code. I'd recommend about 20 ounces in weight to start out with. You'll want to start light and work up in weight to find what you can tolerate without losing sight picture steadiness.
rcrchery left you a PM on AT
Very helpful...thanks.
Thank you I have learn a lot lm new at target shooting .
That's good to hear, David! I'm glad I've been able to help out.
Great video and info well done
Thank you very much!
Great vid. What mounts do you use in your setup?
I'm using the Doinker Platinum ten degree front mount and then the Doinker Mighty Mount rear bar mount.
QD's?
Front and back, yet.
Great information, how much total mass weight for your setup?
Total weight for my bow is around the mid eight pound range I believe. Mass weight just needs to be matched with holding weight during shot execution. That's a different number than just holding weight at full draw on a draw board though. My holding weight on a draw board is 13 pounds, but when my shot breaks it's around 17-18. If you have a buzzy and busy sight picture that darts around with big movements, this can mean you need more mass weight. If you have a slow, wavy sight picture where the bow feels very heavy and hard to move the pin/dot back to the middle, this can mean you have too much mass weight.
Thank you.
I typically hunt at 65#s. I just purchased a target bow (55-65#). What is good way to determine what poundage to set my target bow at?
You'll want to check with your organization(s) first to see if they have any peak weight maximum limits. Beyond that, you'll want to find the weight you can comfortably dominate throughout the entire shooting round/day without ever tiring.
Great video! Keep up the good work Robert! Waiting for the next video :)
Thank you very much!
What length bars did you use for your HyperEdge?
I used 30 up front with a 10 degree down and 12 on the back mounted at the lower spot on the back of the riser.
Thanks so much! How much weight front and back?
You're welcome. I honestly don't remember for sure on the HyperEdge, but I can tell you that it'll be different for each archer. For me I run a pretty solid 1 to 2 ratio normally on my bars. That's just always what balances best to me. It gives me a slight downward lean at brace and helps me stay active on my shot. Your holding weight will make a big difference too, and it's not just the holding weight with the stops just touching, it'll be your shot execution holding weight. Meaning how hard you're pulling to steady your pin and execute. If you pull harder, you'll want more overall weight. On my Prevail I have 8 ounces on the front bar and 16 on the back bar with a 30/10 set up using a ten degree down connection up front.
Thanks again! I use front weight times bar length divided by rear bar length to get weight on rear bar. I may try 12 inch back bar and see how it holds. Trying to get it out of bottom 9 ring (6 o'clock ). So running 5 on front, 15 on back
A lot of people run a 1:3 ratio on their bars so you may find that helps. If not I'd look at your form and shoulders more specifically on what's causing you to have a low hold.
i am lookin at two different bow hoyt helix ultra and the rx3 ultra i am a 32 inch draw and shoot target only my draw weight is 70# which bow do you suggest i have not shot a bow in 20 years want to get back into it
I shoot the Helix Ultra, but really the question is with these hunting bows is how much do you want to spend. Speed is advertised as being the same. Also if your only going to be shooting targets you wont need the full 70 pound draw weight.
If you're a target only shooter I would use a target bow instead of a hunting bow. Look into a PSE PerformX or PSE Supra Focus and start at 60 pounds draw weight. These bows put a lot of speed out already and the added draw weight won't be needed.
I know this video is over 2 yrs old so I don't know if you'll see this comment. My daughter is a right handed shooter but I've had to place her back stabilizer on the right side of the riser to get her bubble in the middle during her shot cycle. Isn't that pretty uncommon?
It's not the norm for sure but I've seen it be done. Chris Bee was a big proponent of this set up for a long time. I believe he's got his back bar on the left now. It may be necessary depending on her bow arm and the pronation/supination she has. It could be the grip being too vertical too though. I'd check that first. If it works for her and her form is good, then I wouldn't be too worried.
How much weight are you running out front and in the back? What's your mass weight? Just asking for reference.
On the Prevail I have a 30/10 with 9/18. Total mass weight is 8.5 pounds.
rcrchery 30/12 with 12/24. 7.8 mass weight. Your about 3 to 1 and im 2 to 1. Mine is a 40" xpression. I better check my mass weight again.
Thanks
rcrchery what I'm I thinking you do have 2 to 1. Ratio. I was looking at the 30/10. Lol. Been a long day
Thanks
8 pounds 6 oz. I was off a little
This is a heavier set up than I've ran in the past but I'm shooting enough now to support it well and probably will add some more soon.
Just bought a stabilizer. Definealy a "feeling" accessory. Weights and lengths are variable. Installing the stabilizer each time I unpack my bow is a chore. My Pro Shop is not the reach out and help you kind. So many variables to consider to improve accuracy and each one can make things worse.
I would go with a quick disconnect on your stabilizers for the attachment. You can turn the bars 1/4 turn and they're on and off.
very descriptive, thank you sir
Absolutely! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching, Justin!
I run my stabilizers the same way
I'm fairly new to the archery world so, hopefully somebody here will be able to help me with the following question:
How do professional archers compensate for the heavy back bar (usually on the left )of their bows? I' imagine that bar ( and its weights ) is heavier than the sight they use (which is usually located on the oposite side).
Most of the pros I've seen shoot a front and a single back stabilizer only (e.g NOT a V-mount).
Thanks
You adjust to create a slight offset to hold against or to balance out the natural cant of the bow imparted by the way the forearm bones twist inside the arm.