Stabilizer Set-Up Guide (TToTW#94)
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
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This is the best video I’ve seen on stabs. It’s hard to find good info on setups, weights, where to add weight and why depending on how hard you are pulling etc. Great stuff!
Thank you Justin! I don't know if my reply came through on the premier chat but the red weights are from Shrewd. It's their 1oz aluminum weights.
Ditto!
Another great video, going to try a few of your suggestions. I’m strictly a bowhunter but you still like to shoot the best you can
Thank you for watching! The same concepts still apply with a bowhunter set up, just a little different weight structure.
Man this is probably the best stabilizer explanation video I've ever seen. The view of the pin float is really cool!
Unrelated question ... What's the little black card on the sight? I've always assumed they were a blinder for shooting with both eyes open but I've never really known.
Thank you
Thank you for the comment! It's a blinder for my left eye to not see the target. Helps me with eye dominance issues.
@@rcrchery thank you sir! I have dominance issues as well and absolutely cannot shoot with both eyes open. I actually have to be VERY conscious to not even let my right eye crack open because it will make me have a 4" right miss.
This is something to try.
@@raider9170 One thing you can try to see how it works for you is using a metal paperclip that has the arms that flip back and forth and a business card on your hat. You can flip it up and down as needed for shooting this way.
@@raider9170 Keep in mind that the scope mounted eye blinder continues to allow view through the scope. A cap mounted blinder blocks both scope & target, so may be more beneficial. I am cross-dominant , so have experimented.
Very helpful video RC! Good info and good advice! What is your thoughts on the lower front stab hole?
I haven't tried it yet to know for sure. My guess is with it lower down on the riser it might feel similar to what I get with the rear bar lower down. Little lower center of mass and would probably need more front weight than how it's currently set up because it wouldn't have much control over the top of the bow to counterbalance pulling back on it. It might work really well for a stagnant style shooter though but if you pull through it might feel harder to manage possibly. Never know till I try it though!
Good vid ! Be interesting to know the front & rear weight you have settled on.
Right now I'm at 7 up front and 14 on the rear bar.
@@rcrchery Rob, interesting to hear the conclusion of your rear stabiliser. More about where it's mounted than where the actual weight is located ? The Reckoning Gen2 has the optional lower front mount that should have a similar effect as a degree angle down mounted on the high location ?
@@kennethosborne6497 That's possible, I'm not 100% for sure though. I'll have to test that lower mount out at some point.
Another great video. Any suggestions for using "V" bars?
Thanks for watching! So I’ve not personally ever used a v bar set up so I’m not a good go to for that. There’s a gentleman on Instagram named Madhatterarchery who would be a good resource for that. His first name is Eric. Very knowledgeable and he’d be happy to help answer questions on it!
Good video! Very helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Excellent video, very instructive, I'm learning more and more.
One doubt, after shooting without weights, and having adjusted the draw size and the size of the d-loop.
I place weights on the front bar to eliminate lateral noise and weights on the back bar to eliminate upward jumps, all of this being watched while trying to stay in the middle of the yellow, and if so the upward jumps are moderated rather than adding more weights to the bar rear, do I just adjust its angle downwards?
You are correct, moving the back bar down can give you some micro adjustments on hold and reaction.
@@rcrchery Thanks
As always, awsome video and really well explain!!! I really apreciated. What your opinion to put weight on the bottom of the limp as some pro do? And what they are use for? And in what situation we put weight at the botton of the limp
Are you meaning having weights attached to the riser lower down? Generally they're doing this for more overall mass weight to help with wind or just aiming picture to settle them down and have a little more weight to fight against.
Yes, that its exactly what i want to know
If you have any questions after watching just let me know!
when I balance my bow hanged with a rope, the bubble is not in the center due to my lateral. it does not matter?
Here’s my thoughts on this an other methods that are similar. Do we shoot our bows while they’re hanging from a string? No. So let’s get it balanced for us while it’s in our own hands and while we’re shooting. We want it working for us during the job at hand.
For me, and the majority of archery’s, if you looked at the balance statically with a rope balance it’ll hand forward and to the left if you’re a right handed archer. Because of the forces pulling back on the bow at full draw and our hand/arm pushing into it we have to counterbalance that. So at rest under no load it’ll show that.
For me the down angle started as a way to keep it out of my vision at full draw (when I could see it the wiggle was a distraction), the one thing I would say about the wiggle on reaching full draw, when it wiggles too much I am hitting the stops too hard and it significantly delays my shot timing.
I like a short front bar because it allows more weight and is less unwieldy (field shooter), marginally less wind influence ?
The down angle and a low and out back bar seem to keep the COM low and seem to minimize my twitching ? and slow my float ?
Largely because I like a fair amount of weight I have not used stabilizer weights for years, I use barebow weights because they tend to be about half the price or twice the weight of an ordinary weight
One of the reasons I use the low and out back bar is for the downhill shots (keeping it low means that on steep shots the bow angle doesn't raise the back weight too close to grip level), I always liked the idea of the (mostly ?) Scandinavian archers who used to use the swinging floating rods, but did not want to deal with the actual swinging and floating while still keeping weight low, I do not want to be anywhere near an inverted pendulum, always want the pendulum weight as long and low as possible to slow and lengthen the swing, especially in the wind,
I want to get on target quickly and execute, if the length of the swing becomes too long then I have almost always held too long
All very good points here!! Thanks for sharing your experiences and what you’re doing.
I had not ever really thought in much depth about the low weight or swinging bars until I wrote that post but The Swinging Bars will always give you Low weight (a Balanced pendulum ) and a Straight Back Bar will give you a Very High Above Centre of Mass (Unbalanced Pendulum) on a Steep Downhill Shot ?!!
I use "SVL Stabiliser De-Resonator " as stab dampers, they are cheap and hard wearing, but mostly I use them as incremental stab weight adjustment for between weight micro adjustment, it may compromise the damping a little but I have not noticed anything and the micro is much simpler than finding small weights and endlessly adding and removing. Have always liked the big one but I now finally have a bar that the large slides up and down with bow angle (1\2" avalon tec x maxx, seems nice rod for minimal ish money)
It’s ridiculous that your how to shoot a thumb button release video violated their rules, I hope you repost it
I appealed it with RUclips and it’s back up now.