If you'd still like some tips for the mirror finish, at 6:04 you can see the orange peel. You've sanded off the high parts which have become scratched by the sandpaper.But the low parts are still glossy. The purpose of wet sanding is to level the finish entirely and keep sanding until all the glossy low parts are gone. But then you still don't have a mirror finish. You get that by applying a rubbing compound and then a even finer polish or swirl remover. They smooth out the scratches caused by the wet sanding and get it mirror smooth. It will however take a few wets that are wetsanded down in order for it to be completelty flat without a grainfiller, I think there are even transparant ones. But you can do it with just wet sanding. Just be prepared to give it a few extra coats beforehand so you dont worry about wet sanding bare wood.
I cannot believe that any of you are saying this isn't easy, or that he is some kind of pro. It is a 4 sided box with bracing for the top. That's it. As for him using/owning a plane, damn, pretty simple tools. He did exactly what he says in his title....it is a sharp looking, mature design. He could not have explained it any easier. For those of you complaining that it is far from easy, or that too many tools were used, then I suggest you stay away from ANY building. This build couldn't be easier. Great video man!
I feel like another feature to add to this which would make the stick beyond perfect would be a custom wood burned front plate. Would make the stick super unique. The stick is still real cool man keep up the good work
NICE! As soon as I saw the Fanta lever, I knew where this was going and sure enough, during the testing, YEP! Definitely a Tekken player! Great work, bro.
Impressive job! I really liked the bit at 4:15 where you used glue and sandpaper to fix a mistake. I will have to keep that in mind for future projects. Kudos!
+Abbs Quqa (Kyutorias) plexiglass is a cover that some use which can be hard to work with. Padhacking involves taking the motherboard of an official console controller and soldering the buttons and stick to that.
Hey,man. I gotta say your content is awesome.Its helping me a lot with planning my arcade stick.But i just cannot seem to find a good answer to how to paint a wooden stick black.I dont know anything about woodpaiting and i think it would be awesome if could make a video about it.Thanks and stay shrap!
Hey, thanks. :) I assume it is the same as any other color. You get a black paint and apply transparent warish or you can buy black colored warnish, too and apply multiple layers. I suggest to go to a local paint store and ask them which one would be better.
Very happy I stumbled upon this video. Me and my friend are planning on making our own sticks soon and have been looking for guides and videos. We'll be sure to reference your video when we begin the process. May I ask how much you spent on the making of the stick?
Good luck and have fun. :) The materials (like wood, varnish, glue, screws, sandpapers) cost about 60 USD and the lever, buttons and PCB was around 90 USD. But I live in Europe and prices may differ. Also I already had all the tools I needed.
This looks great. I just impulse bought an arcade sanwa kit on eBay. Are those sanwa snap in buttons? If so how did you install them into the plywood with an acrylic layer, I'd like to avoid using acrylic if I can!
Thanks for this. I bought the same Zero Encoder on ebay. Works well. I just need a cool wood case like yours. Currently using my old MadCatz Brawlstick. Btw, the last song is too good!
I see you couldn't find your Phillips Hammer, either. I keep my roofing screwdrivers and phillips hammers in the same toolbox, but it seems to have vanished! TY for information! Shoryuken!
The wiring starts at 6:33 and it is very simple with this PCB that comes with prepared wires. If you are interested in pad hacking and soldering check out my other video.
Why did you use snap-in buttons on such a thick top panel? They still work? I am guessing it doesn't make a difference when you have a private controller instead of an arcade panel where people could otherwise steal them?
hey just wondering would it be too much to ask if you can explain how to do this (and or make a template) so the joystick is on th right and buttons are on the left?
Another thing that you could do is tear open an old controller for your preferred console (if you use one) and connect the relays after checking the compatibility. I built a wireless "PS3" controller by tearing apart my old one and adapting a few cables for the new buttons and analog.
Hey man I was going to have a go at building one myself but I was wondering what the dimensions of your box was, how thick the plywood top is and how thick the acrylic bottom is. Thanks.
The PCB I used in this video comes with prepared wires. That is the easiest way. But if you want to make your own wires, then Quick disconnect size for Sanwa buttons is .110 and for the Korean stick it is .187. Almost any electrical wire will do. I also have an other video about how to solder the wires to a PCB.
Great video! Really enjoyed your other arcade stick build. I have one question, you said that the Sanwa buttons fit into the holes without snapping with no problems. Do they feel secure or would you suggest drilling out the back to accommodate the snap? I have a fairly thick panel with a 4mm piece of plywood on top, if it's really necessary I'll just let it clip into the top plywood but would rather avoid it if it's not needed. Thanks in advance!
Also, the wires you use (red and black), when they connect to the PCB from the buttons, do they somehow need to connect to a Ground section? Or are they already grounded when the Black and Red wires connect to the PCB? Cheers!
Yes, the buttons feel very secure in a 30 mm hole without snapping in, too. They don't move at all (not even after years in my other arcade stick). If you want to replace them you need to push them out with a bit of force that is how secure they are. Connecting this PCB to the buttons is very easy. The wires came in prepaired signal and ground pairs and you don't even need to know what ground is.
I was wondering do you need a joystick with that PCB because I only need one button (I'm trying to make a hand brake for a pc wheel )and also how difficult is it to set up
Hi there dude nice video it explains the steps to make it easy, but can you make one for xbox one since the pcb is alittle diferent, its a little complicated for me the connection / soldering part. Thanks.
Hello Mr. aabyssx; I was wondering if you would be able to provide me with the links to the places where you bought the buttons and the lever, and any other thing that I might need to use. I hope you can help me, have a nice day.
So, without counter boring the holes for the buttons did they fall out constantly when the stick was upside down? I know they didn't snap into place, wood was too thick.
Hello is that plywood you used for the top base? how does it sound when tapping the buttons? the stick on youtube made by "Make it Extreme", has a near silent sound when tapping the buttons due to the solid unibody chassis. Does your stick have the same effect? I want something rock solid and hard as concrete so when you tap the buttons you can feel pure sturdiness. Can I achieve that with the method you used? would I need wood stronger than ply?
Wow nice self made and tekken player.I like how that stick u can make easy wave dashes or should I mean it has great response on the sensors.is that a Korean stick model?if it is which one would u recommend Korean or Japanese model stick for wave dashing and back dashing too.
Hi, nice video :) I had been worried because I'd read Sanwa snap in buttons can only be put into a top panel that had a maximum thickness of 4mm, in order for them to snap. I know nothing about woodwork but I'd worried that would be too flimsy and was thinking of getting Seimitsu screw in buttons instead, but your top panel looks thick, so perhaps I can use the Sanwas after all...
Bought the same SANWA buttons but I ve read that it is more suitable for metal panels. Have you experienced any issues with it? Wood panels are sure easier to make. Thanks for sharing the video and the work!
There is a PS/home button on this PCB, too but the name on the PCB is Mode. It is connected to the upper left grey button, if you pause the video at 7:01 you can see it as well. But this information should be in the connection description of the PCB, too.
Chet bro sweet vid you for me wanting to build my own Fightstick now to can you please tell me were you got the lay out for the front and if you cut the plexiglass or dose is already come like that and we're can I get it?
Do you have the dimensions for the support structure? The video is a little too blurry on your xlsx to copy :( great video! attempting to copy this as my first build!
I know this video is old, but do you by any chance still have the plans you used for this? Thinking about building one out of curly maple if I end up liking my qanba enough to upgrade. Having the plans would make it an easy project :)
Really nice job man. I plan on making a joystick similar to this myself, that is why I checked out this video. I plan on using Walnut though, and I am going to use dowels to make the joystick a little sturdier. Did you use Sanwa parts? It is a Really nice build, When i make mine I will record it and share it with you, if that is okay?
is this usb ready for PS3 ? i was looking at these non soldering kits and i was gonna gut out my Mayflash box and replace the joystick and buttons for this kind of a set up.
Great tutorial. My question to you sir, could you make a tutorial to make a hitbox arcade ? It's the same as an arcade stick but with buttons instead of the stick. If not could you pls tell me how to easily make it ? I really want a hitbox but there's only 1 company that makes it and it's in the US so + shipping to EU makes it around 300 Euros, wich is too much for me. Thnx for the help anyway
+T Wrecks If you're making one for PC, you should just be able to connect buttons to the board and then on the PC designate those buttons as the WASD or arrow keys or whatever.
May I ask, the top panel you used was it half inch? did you route anything? did you ever feel the stick was too short? Are you familiar with Etokki Omni sticks? I see the lever is the same as the one you have which leads me to believe that the etokki omni steel case somehow has 1/2 inch spacing aswell.
+Syam Rampersad No routing, I used only the tools shown at 0:10.Top panel thickness is 12mm. This is the correct monting depth of Korean levers. The lever is the same as in the Korean version of the Omni. Omni has additional spacing below the steel panel. Google etokki omni inside and you will find pictures.
+aabyssx thanks dude this is good to know, half inch is somewhere between 12mm and 13mm. Well I feel a relief now, I am only getting the Crown 303 to buy on focusattack so I will have to settle for that. Have you ever used an American HAPP before? if so how would you compare it to this Korean Crown? I grew up using the happ bat tops.
If you don't have one, the plane is definitely overkill for the corners. You have files/rasps and sandpaper and can just use those. I think I'd use a block plane instead of the shoulder/rabbet plane as done in the video.
I'm probably not gonna do this ever, but I love the music, detail, and amount of effort you put into it.
Good work.
Nice video! This really shows that anyone who takes simple care and attention to details can create a very professional looking stick.
watching this makes me want to go build one. very nice workmanship.
Excellent craftsmanship...he could probably create a nice little side business doing this.
If you'd still like some tips for the mirror finish, at 6:04 you can see the orange peel. You've sanded off the high parts which have become scratched by the sandpaper.But the low parts are still glossy. The purpose of wet sanding is to level the finish entirely and keep sanding until all the glossy low parts are gone. But then you still don't have a mirror finish. You get that by applying a rubbing compound and then a even finer polish or swirl remover. They smooth out the scratches caused by the wet sanding and get it mirror smooth.
It will however take a few wets that are wetsanded down in order for it to be completelty flat without a grainfiller, I think there are even transparant ones. But you can do it with just wet sanding. Just be prepared to give it a few extra coats beforehand so you dont worry about wet sanding bare wood.
I love this, like every other video uses some complicated specialized tools but here I actually think i can make this
I cannot believe that any of you are saying this isn't easy, or that he is some kind of pro. It is a 4 sided box with bracing for the top. That's it. As for him using/owning a plane, damn, pretty simple tools. He did exactly what he says in his title....it is a sharp looking, mature design. He could not have explained it any easier. For those of you complaining that it is far from easy, or that too many tools were used, then I suggest you stay away from ANY building. This build couldn't be easier. Great video man!
That stick is fire, you should sell them. I'd buy one.
I feel like another feature to add to this which would make the stick beyond perfect would be a custom wood burned front plate. Would make the stick super unique. The stick is still real cool man keep up the good work
Inspired me to make a wooden stick. Going to build it a bit different though. Very nice work!!!
NICE! As soon as I saw the Fanta lever, I knew where this was going and sure enough, during the testing, YEP! Definitely a Tekken player!
Great work, bro.
Great video, broke down making a case in very easy steps i suck at wood work but I feel i can do this now!
I am sure you can. Just make sure that you have spare wood parts in case you mess up something (like I used to do :)
Even more impressive when you realise he did it all with one hand
Impressive job! I really liked the bit at 4:15 where you used glue and sandpaper to fix a mistake. I will have to keep that in mind for future projects. Kudos!
Meglepodtem mikor lattam a magyar ujsagot ! Hasznos kis video !
Thanks for posting this, I've wanted to try a stick for a long time but I'd much rather make one myself :D
I love that you were able to make this on your own. And it looks like it works well with TTT2
what were the dimensions of the stick? And what wood did you use? lastly what were the metal things you put in the drill holes? thank you
what are the dimensions of the wood you cut?
WOW!!! That is very artistic and creative. What a cool way to have a uniquely person fight stick!! Awesome.
For a guy who says he's not a professional that's a pretty fine looking case.
Looking at this, i wonder what's the hard way
Adding a plexi and pad hacking.
Uh huh... *nods and pretends he understands*
+Abbs Quqa (Kyutorias) plexiglass is a cover that some use which can be hard to work with.
Padhacking involves taking the motherboard of an official console controller and soldering the buttons and stick to that.
Maybe without tools, cuttin and perforating the wood with your bare hands.
@Anthony James "soldering the buttons and stick to that." what does that even mean?
Hey,man.
I gotta say your content is awesome.Its helping me a lot with planning my arcade stick.But i just cannot seem to find a good answer to how to paint a wooden stick black.I dont know anything about woodpaiting and i think it would be awesome if could make a video about it.Thanks and stay shrap!
Hey, thanks. :) I assume it is the same as any other color. You get a black paint and apply transparent warish or you can buy black colored warnish, too and apply multiple layers. I suggest to go to a local paint store and ask them which one would be better.
The wavedash though! beautiful
Could you provide any denominational data? You have a superb build I would like to follow it as closely as possible, with whatever adjustments I need.
Lovely stick, and beautiful backdash-canceling at the end!
Very happy I stumbled upon this video. Me and my friend are planning on making our own sticks soon and have been looking for guides and videos. We'll be sure to reference your video when we begin the process. May I ask how much you spent on the making of the stick?
Good luck and have fun. :)
The materials (like wood, varnish, glue, screws, sandpapers) cost about 60 USD and the lever, buttons and PCB was around 90 USD. But I live in Europe and prices may differ. Also I already had all the tools I needed.
***** Thank you for the reply and the info. Much appreciated!
This looks great. I just impulse bought an arcade sanwa kit on eBay. Are those sanwa snap in buttons? If so how did you install them into the plywood with an acrylic layer, I'd like to avoid using acrylic if I can!
That stick is awesome looking. Can you share where you got the knob and base?
Thanks for this. I bought the same Zero Encoder on ebay. Works well. I just need a cool wood case like yours. Currently using my old MadCatz Brawlstick. Btw, the last song is too good!
Amazing stuff, man! One of the best custom sticks i've ever seen.
I see you couldn't find your Phillips Hammer, either. I keep my roofing screwdrivers and phillips hammers in the same toolbox, but it seems to have vanished! TY for information! Shoryuken!
You made it look easy, great job!
Look that waves, awesome. Good job.
The wiring starts at 6:33 and it is very simple with this PCB that comes with prepared wires. If you are interested in pad hacking and soldering check out my other video.
***** where do you get that pcb with prepared wires? I'm interested in doing it that way 'cause I'm very bad at soldering...
It is called Zero Delay USB Encoder. It has several versions.
***** if any for sale
***** contact me in gustavovaladez17@Gmail.com
***** Can you tell me, where did bought the arcade parts please?
Can you do a brief explanation of the pcb?
Nagyon szép munka! Gratula hozzá :)
This came out REALLY good! Great job here! 😊
Amazing job man. That fight stick turned out f'ing beautiful 👍
Can you provide the plans for the buttons panel? It will be really helpful for me.
What is the measurement for the slab of white wood you placed on top at 0:31 ? Thanks
Why did you use snap-in buttons on such a thick top panel? They still work? I am guessing it doesn't make a difference when you have a private controller instead of an arcade panel where people could otherwise steal them?
good job friend , Could you be so kind as to pass the plane with the measurements of the pieces for cut it? thanks
How much room do you have inside that cabinet? from top to bottom?
hey just wondering would it be too much to ask if you can explain how to do this (and or make a template) so the joystick is on th right and buttons are on the left?
What are the plans and also, where could I get the electrical stuff (buttons, joystick, wires etc)
Another thing that you could do is tear open an old controller for your preferred console (if you use one) and connect the relays after checking the compatibility. I built a wireless "PS3" controller by tearing apart my old one and adapting a few cables for the new buttons and analog.
Hi mate, could I please grab your plans? I'd love to make this, however from the video I believe I'm missing a measurements
awesome work. I honestly liked the look prior to staining.
Can you give us the exact sizes of the pieces ?some building plans may be?
Hey man I was going to have a go at building one myself but I was wondering what the dimensions of your box was, how thick the plywood top is and how thick the acrylic bottom is. Thanks.
Nice work. The tools i would need to buy to make it tho would cost more than the stick it self :D
I'm good with the housing but I'm not sure which wires I should buy and the right connections
The PCB I used in this video comes with prepared wires. That is the easiest way. But if you want to make your own wires, then Quick disconnect size for Sanwa buttons is .110 and for the Korean stick it is .187. Almost any electrical wire will do. I also have an other video about how to solder the wires to a PCB.
Did you post mesurements of the different wood pieces?
I'm interested in doing the same thanks you!
Great video! Really enjoyed your other arcade stick build. I have one question, you said that the Sanwa buttons fit into the holes without snapping with no problems. Do they feel secure or would you suggest drilling out the back to accommodate the snap? I have a fairly thick panel with a 4mm piece of plywood on top, if it's really necessary I'll just let it clip into the top plywood but would rather avoid it if it's not needed. Thanks in advance!
Also, the wires you use (red and black), when they connect to the PCB from the buttons, do they somehow need to connect to a Ground section? Or are they already grounded when the Black and Red wires connect to the PCB? Cheers!
Yes, the buttons feel very secure in a 30 mm hole without snapping in, too. They don't move at all (not even after years in my other arcade stick). If you want to replace them you need to push them out with a bit of force that is how secure they are.
Connecting this PCB to the buttons is very easy. The wires came in prepaired signal and ground pairs and you don't even need to know what ground is.
That's awesome! That makes everything so much easier. Thanks for the help and quick response, really appreciate!
This is an awesome build
I was wondering do you need a joystick with that PCB because I only need one button (I'm trying to make a hand brake for a pc wheel )and also how difficult is it to set up
Hi there dude nice video it explains the steps to make it easy, but can you make one for xbox one since the pcb is alittle diferent, its a little complicated for me the connection / soldering part. Thanks.
Hello Mr. aabyssx; I was wondering if you would be able to provide me with the links to the places where you bought the buttons and the lever, and any other thing that I might need to use. I hope you can help me, have a nice day.
how many buttons did he include? and what buttons?? please reply asap.
What were you doing with the water? Is that some kind of polish?
So, without counter boring the holes for the buttons did they fall out constantly when the stick was upside down? I know they didn't snap into place, wood was too thick.
TheLast Dragon they don't fall out at all even though they don't snap.
aabyssx Just keep them snug then?
Congratulations!
I make arcade stick, mini arcade cabinet etc... I'll place my works on my channel soon.
granted i dont plan on doing this (maybe i will in the future), but i did find this video very entertaining to watch
You and I have considerably different definitions for Easy Way.
Hello is that plywood you used for the top base? how does it sound when tapping the buttons? the stick on youtube made by "Make it Extreme", has a near silent sound when tapping the buttons due to the solid unibody chassis. Does your stick have the same effect? I want something rock solid and hard as concrete so when you tap the buttons you can feel pure sturdiness. Can I achieve that with the method you used? would I need wood stronger than ply?
Looks good, but can it feel good?
Wow nice self made and tekken player.I like how that stick u can make easy wave dashes or should I mean it has great response on the sensors.is that a Korean stick model?if it is which one would u recommend Korean or Japanese model stick for wave dashing and back dashing too.
Hi, nice video :) I had been worried because I'd read Sanwa snap in buttons can only be put into a top panel that had a maximum thickness of 4mm, in order for them to snap. I know nothing about woodwork but I'd worried that would be too flimsy and was thinking of getting Seimitsu screw in buttons instead, but your top panel looks thick, so perhaps I can use the Sanwas after all...
There are screw-in Sanwa buttons available, too. They're just not as many colors of the screw-in buttons as the plug-ins.
This is very late but do you know if putting the buttons in order on the motherboard is important if playing on pc, where I can remap any way?
Do you still have your wood cuttingp plans, becasue im reall loving the look of this stick and i want to make another case for my stick parts.
Can I get a link or something for the joystick and buttons layout?
That's cool, but how do you make a stickless arcade controller like one of those Hitboxes?
instead of adding a stick for directions , you wire buttons as the directions.
Very inspiring. That is a masterpiece.
Bought the same SANWA buttons but I ve read that it is more suitable for metal panels. Have you experienced any issues with it? Wood panels are sure easier to make. Thanks for sharing the video and the work!
In thick wooden panels they won't snap in but they won't fall out.
Can you please state what each buttons for?
Does the varnish make it sticky at all?
Where did you get all your supplies from?
Can you drop a list of materials used?
what a great video. this is exactly the information I needed
There is a PS/home button on this PCB, too but the name on the PCB is Mode. It is connected to the upper left grey button, if you pause the video at 7:01 you can see it as well. But this information should be in the connection description of the PCB, too.
Just curious but what sized hole saws did u use?
+Hawkeye Siebert depends on your buttons, most sanwas are 30mm
Excellent, thanks for sharing with us.
Chet bro sweet vid you for me wanting to build my own Fightstick now to can you please tell me were you got the lay out for the front and if you cut the plexiglass or dose is already come like that and we're can I get it?
very neat work. well done bro!!
Pretty cool stuff
Fantastic job and great instructional video. May I inquire as to the approximate cost of a project like this?
christian jackson thx, you can find it in the comments below
Do you have the dimensions for the support structure? The video is a little too blurry on your xlsx to copy :( great video! attempting to copy this as my first build!
I know this video is old, but do you by any chance still have the plans you used for this? Thinking about building one out of curly maple if I end up liking my qanba enough to upgrade. Having the plans would make it an easy project :)
Really nice job man. I plan on making a joystick similar to this myself, that is why I checked out this video. I plan on using Walnut though, and I am going to use dowels to make the joystick a little sturdier.
Did you use Sanwa parts?
It is a Really nice build, When i make mine I will record it and share it with you, if that is okay?
Can you tell me the height of this case? from top to bottom?
What is the size of the stick? And how much does it cost?
How to build one for ps4 pro ... and where can we get all the accessories i.e. buttons, joystick
is this usb ready for PS3 ? i was looking at these non soldering kits and i was gonna gut out my Mayflash box and replace the joystick and buttons for this kind of a set up.
could u post plans or dimensions of case?
Can i make one of these for xbox one? I mean, is just remapping buttons and stuff, i may figure it out
that is awesome. Great work dude
Great tutorial. My question to you sir, could you make a tutorial to make a hitbox arcade ? It's the same as an arcade stick but with buttons instead of the stick. If not could you pls tell me how to easily make it ? I really want a hitbox but there's only 1 company that makes it and it's in the US so + shipping to EU makes it around 300 Euros, wich is too much for me. Thnx for the help anyway
+T Wrecks If you're making one for PC, you should just be able to connect buttons to the board and then on the PC designate those buttons as the WASD or arrow keys or whatever.
May I ask, the top panel you used was it half inch? did you route anything? did you ever feel the stick was too short?
Are you familiar with Etokki Omni sticks? I see the lever is the same as the one you have which leads me to believe that the etokki omni steel case somehow has 1/2 inch spacing aswell.
+Syam Rampersad No routing, I used only the tools shown at 0:10.Top panel thickness is 12mm. This is the correct monting depth of Korean levers. The lever is the same as in the Korean version of the Omni. Omni has additional spacing below the steel panel. Google etokki omni inside and you will find pictures.
+aabyssx thanks dude this is good to know, half inch is somewhere between 12mm and 13mm. Well I feel a relief now, I am only getting the Crown 303 to buy on focusattack so I will have to settle for that.
Have you ever used an American HAPP before? if so how would you compare it to this Korean Crown? I grew up using the happ bat tops.
+Syam Rampersad SRY, I don't remember HAPP/IL levers well because I only played on them a couple of times in arcades long ago.
I want to make this so bad! Are the schematics available?
How would you do something like this for a Dreamcast compatible pad?
If you don't have one, the plane is definitely overkill for the corners. You have files/rasps and sandpaper and can just use those. I think I'd use a block plane instead of the shoulder/rabbet plane as done in the video.