I'm a violin maker and sometimes repair gun stocks. We bend both of those - violin ribs with dry heat and guns with hot linseed oil. This was a great video (I've just subscribed). I've just taken up snooker after a gap of 40 years!
Hi Chris I've heard of cue makers straightening cue shafts with hairdryers but always been a bit wary that it doesn't suck the small amount of moisture from the cue and make it brittle due to the heat. I'm not saying it doesn't work but I've always been a bit nervous of it. I'm certainly intrigued by the use of hot linseed oil as the first thing I do when steaming is remove any finish from the cue so moisture can get at the pores of the wood.
I've had issues with the top two or three inches going off enough to put you off shots over the years (30yrs or so) if it's just the top (tip) portion of the cue you can absolutely straighten it back out, now if it is not worked enough (steam from kettle and hand straightening) it will eventually go back over a few weeks to a month or more but if you know what your doing and have the "feel" you can absolutely successfully straighten a cue...I've done quite a few over the years. Most have gone back the first few times but go at it again, keep working it straight and allow it to fully dry in a jig then when it's all the way dry....I recommend 3-5days in a jig the cue will eventually stay straight. This is the part that they don't tell you....if a cue has bent or been prone to going off and has been restored/repaired then any whiff of dampness will cause the cue to go back to the original bend that it went off to in the first place. Any major change in temps will also do this but never leave the cue in the car overnight or leaning against a wall. Once you finish your match/session put the cue in a decent split case or one piece case and store it in the same place in your home wether flat on floor or hanging if a one piece tube. Some cues will stay straight after a few attempts, some cues will need a fiddle every few months just to straighten it back up and some cues are just too far gone especially if the fibres in the cue have been broken down too many times etc....they will almost "always" go back to that annoying unsightly bend that definitely puts you off shots as your cueing as you can see the bend as your eyeing down the shift of the cue....at that point it is more expensive but a lot better to bight the bullet and fork out for a new cue. If your really really attached to your cue as you have probably been playing with it for years then here's a little obvious tip that people often don't think of! TAKE YOUR OLD CUE WITH YOU WHEN YOU GO TO PURCHASE A NEW ONE. This way the seller can have a look and feel around your cue and if their a good stockist/seller and knowledgeable they will put 4 or 5 cues down on the table that are the same weight, length and tip size and after half hour (no rush) you can take your time to pick out your new weapon of choice😉Once you pick up the correct cue it's almost an instant bonding. You just know as the cue instantly just FEELS RIGHT....if you get that feeling ask for 20-30 minutes to do a few line ups on the practice table to make sure the cue feels right. Play all the different shots, top, screw, deep screw, side etc etc. Once you know you know but selecting and purchasing a new cue should NEVER be rushed. A good quality cue should last you 30 to 40+ years if it's taken care of properly and is of high quality to begin with. If your new to snooker but have got the bug and are playing for or thinking of playing in the local league then bite the bullet and dig a little deeper in those pockets. The better quality cues tend to start from £250 upwards. Saying that as a beginner you can also get away with a mid range cue at around £110-£150. I prefer Ash cues myself but be warned in my experience Ash cues tend to bend a little easier than say maple. At the end of the day it doesn't matter how much you payed for your cue if you don't put thr practice in that cue won't do anything diff than a £30 Argos cue and that's a fact Jack😋 Some people are just naturals and could pot with a bloody walking stick😂apologies for the long post but I hope this will help somebody out there with these issues or buying a new cue or going for a decent upgrade. Happy potting people🎱
Great post, too many good points for me to remember!! It's interesting seeing other people's experiences; I guess you would expect all of ours to be the same over time. Straightening cues is a strange one. I straighten many by hand as a first go and explain that unless they leave the cue with me to keep an eye on then they will need to return it if it moves again; I doubt I get back more than 1 in 30 although it may now be straight enough that players feel it's enough. The kettle steamers are similar for bends 8" or further (from the tip) I would say but for the cues that have a bend under this distance it always seems a bit trickier. These are the ones I like to leave in the steamer longer and clamp to ensure it affects the fibres in the wood. As regards it returning to it's original position, my experience would say, was it's true original position straight or was it bent when it was first made? If it was straightened to sell it then once affected by moisture etc it may want to go back to bent. If it was straight to begin with and then been mistreated then steaming it may take it back to it's original stress free straightness. Either way, every cue is certainly different and it's own puzzle as it won't give you any clues so it turns it into an enjoyable and sometimes frustrating project. I take on lots of really old cues and some really damaged ones as I love to bring them back to former glories but they are all a challenge in different ways. Just last night I was having a debate with a carpenter who struggled to believe that every cue won't go back to it's former straight position and stay there, I must be very lucky as this is not my experience and I try and build an environment where people are relaxed enough to come back if they have any issues. When playing players in the league where I have worked on cues I will always take a look to see how a cues holding up. As regards steaming, the length of time for me makes a massive difference, especially if trying to move a cue bend closer to the butt. For me, as I'm sure you, it's certainly become a feel thing over the years so hard to explain sometimes but I'll try a few things as soon as I have a cue and see how the cue reacts before settling on a method. Once a cue is complete I'll always refinish the whole thing so I know it's protected and discuss how to look after a cue with the customer. Some cues have actually turned up to me 'wet for a tip change. When I say to people that you clearly keep the cue in the car they still can't work out how I would know!! These cues have an almost elastic feel where the fibres have been broken/loosened by moisture. It's certainly nice to share experiences with other people (in my opinion), it's very rare in this trade!
@@marclockley3229 this is just what I've learnt myself after having to deal with my own cues after a good pissup & leaving the car at the club with the cue inside the car for a night or two. Not good. I sorted mine out about a month or 6wks ago with the kettle and pushing the tip down on the worktop....got it back close to 100% and its moved back slightly again so I will go at it again later on today. I bet if I removed all the outer layer of protection, gave it a few mins longer over the kettle, worked it as straight as I could by hand and clamped it for a week then refinished it then it would stay straight a lot longer....my gut feel is with this cue it is always going to bend after a while. Its a rather small tip end which also makes it more vulnerable to bending in my experience. An 8mm will twist/bend far easier than a 10mm imho. I'm sure you know this well already with your own handling and experience though. Good luck👍🏼have a Merry Christmas
@@taff6987 Yes, in the midst of winter I left a Burwatt Champion in a Datsun 100a when I was about 19 which broke the internal fibres of the cue down so much it was just like a piece of string and it was never the same. When steaming, I always remove the surface finish of the cue so the hot moisture can soak through the cue; the more time over the kettle or in the steamer, the deeper the steam has penetrated and in my mind, the more likely to stay in that position without springback (after clamping). All good fun. Have a great Xmas mate and New Year.
Really interesting video, I was surprised to see just how much the cue can bend without splitting. I would love to see how you remove a old ferrule and add a new one. I’m considering switching to a titanium ferrule and it would be useful to see someone as experienced as yourself change one, maybe an idea for your next video? Great content as always 👍
Thanks. The distance a cue will bend varies from shaft to shaft so so will fracture if past it's elastic limit, it is mostly a feel thing. Most of the titanium ferrules are a little shorter so you may possibly lose slight cue length. Normally because brass is soft you can take the diameter down a little to meet the end of the cue shaft, titanium in some cases won't budge without the right cutting tools so sometimes it's the cue diameter (wood) that is re-tapered to suit the ferrule. If it's a one off then ferrules aren't best to be taken on by cue owners unless they're confident which is the main reason for not doing a video but maybe I'll get one up at some point, time permitting.
Hi Callum from my experience 41yrs I switched to a titanium ferrule last year to give it a try, I lasted 4 months and returned to brass. The difference just wasn't for me. Others love it, I guess you just got to try it for yourself
Wow - I bought a Peradon from Cue Wizard with good quality ash and paid $700, but I didn't like the finish on it, so I sanded it down, gave it oil and beeswax. It wes OK for a while, but now it's bent slightly, probably because moisture is getting in.... Still - I reckon I can bend it back? Any suggestions what to do? regards re-finishing it, stop it bending again. etc.
this might be a silly question but if i steamed a cue could i clamp it between two metal levels and leave it ? surely that would make it straight wouldnt it ?
Unfortunately not all tapers on each cue are a straight line, if they were then yes. Put between 2 straight edges and then steam. There can be a little spring back so it wouldn't be an exact method every time. Turning a cue against a 6ft level with light behind it would give you a good idea of the existing taper.
Not sure what a long time would do to the woods structure. I've always believed in at last some form if heat transfer sone when couple with steam it seems the more obvious way to achieve movement. That said it seems to be the most common way to reshape wood but that doesn't mean to say that someone isn't doing theirs by slowly saturating the wood.
It's certainly a big topic. Obviously every piece of wood is different with its own internal stresses, some neutral and some wanting to move. For a while now a few if us have been experimenting with different solutions (mixes) to stabilise and in some instances stiffen wood so it stays where you last moved it too. All good fun.
I guess if you have a steam gun that will reach even the section that the cue is clamped against. I would think it's still easier to steam first then quickly clamp.
@@sashajasper497 I generally straighten by hand and see if that cures it over a few days. If the cue continually wants to go back but not too much of a bend I'll remove some of the surface finish to reveal the bare wood and then steam that area over a kettle and then move and see or move and clamp. If that still give me an issue I'll steam the whole shaft for a length of time, move back to straight with my hands and then clamp until completely dry and then take another look. Once complete I'll totally refinish the cue. I rarely have to do anything past straightening with my hands on a dry cue and occasionally use a kettle and rarely use the steamer. Hope that helps
@@marclockley7553 Thanks, I did one last night over a wok with boiling water. I left it 10 minutes and it was surprising easy to bend into shape. I got it fairly straight and have had it hanging. i had a quick look down it this morning and it hasn't moved so will leave it and the sand back and oil it.
@@sashajasper497 Hi Sasha. Glad it went well. I do most of mine (steaming) over a kettle as with a kettle the majority of the steam is coming out of a small area so I can concentrate that on the area of bend.
Every cue is different so is it painted ash or rosewood etc. It has never been financially viable as the work would over take the value of a painted cue. If it was painted ash I would generally strip the paint, steam it and then repaint and refinish it but every person has invested in a new cue rather than do this.
Hi The purpose of the video was to prove that snooker cues could be straightened by the use of steam. I had received some emails suggesting that it could not be done with ash. Sorry, it wasn't to show how I had built a steaming rig for other people to do the same. Maybe some day I will show the design but I am still making a living from refurbing, repairing and straightening cues.
Wow Barry, did you watch the whole video? The cue being straightened in the first part of the video is a mass produced modern budget cue that was part of a batch being thrown away as it had a loose weight and wasn't for sale, the manufacturer kindly let me have it for the video. The second cue was a cue already restored previously by me that was the customers late Father (not Grandfather). The cue prior to restoration was in such a bad state (due to it's years in the garage) that it was severely bent, wet, dented, no real grain filler, a broken ferrule and in such a bad state that it was obviously unplayable. What I showed in the video was the finished example, this wasn't the cue bent in the first part of the video. Contrary to your comments, the refurbished cue was picked up by a very happy customer the next week and is now used by him on a weekly basis playing with friends. He commented how pleased his Father would have been to have seen it back to new and he would take great pleasure being able to use something his Father had used all those years. I've completed many restoration projects on cues left to loved ones and enjoyed every bit of the emotions when they collect the finished item; I get more satisfaction from this compared to anything else I do so am obviously disappointed when after all that effort I see damaging comments like yours. If you would like to see close ups of the completed cue handed back to the customer then you can see them on Facebook on "The Snooker Crazy Group." Post dated 17/10/2022. Hopefully this answers the comments you made and you'll take the time to see the nice example handed back to the customer.
Been watching you from the start. Best cue doctor I've ever seen.
I'm a violin maker and sometimes repair gun stocks. We bend both of those - violin ribs with dry heat and guns with hot linseed oil. This was a great video (I've just subscribed). I've just taken up snooker after a gap of 40 years!
Hi Chris
I've heard of cue makers straightening cue shafts with hairdryers but always been a bit wary that it doesn't suck the small amount of moisture from the cue and make it brittle due to the heat. I'm not saying it doesn't work but I've always been a bit nervous of it.
I'm certainly intrigued by the use of hot linseed oil as the first thing I do when steaming is remove any finish from the cue so moisture can get at the pores of the wood.
I've had issues with the top two or three inches going off enough to put you off shots over the years (30yrs or so) if it's just the top (tip) portion of the cue you can absolutely straighten it back out, now if it is not worked enough (steam from kettle and hand straightening) it will eventually go back over a few weeks to a month or more but if you know what your doing and have the "feel" you can absolutely successfully straighten a cue...I've done quite a few over the years. Most have gone back the first few times but go at it again, keep working it straight and allow it to fully dry in a jig then when it's all the way dry....I recommend 3-5days in a jig the cue will eventually stay straight.
This is the part that they don't tell you....if a cue has bent or been prone to going off and has been restored/repaired then any whiff of dampness will cause the cue to go back to the original bend that it went off to in the first place. Any major change in temps will also do this but never leave the cue in the car overnight or leaning against a wall. Once you finish your match/session put the cue in a decent split case or one piece case and store it in the same place in your home wether flat on floor or hanging if a one piece tube.
Some cues will stay straight after a few attempts, some cues will need a fiddle every few months just to straighten it back up and some cues are just too far gone especially if the fibres in the cue have been broken down too many times etc....they will almost "always" go back to that annoying unsightly bend that definitely puts you off shots as your cueing as you can see the bend as your eyeing down the shift of the cue....at that point it is more expensive but a lot better to bight the bullet and fork out for a new cue. If your really really attached to your cue as you have probably been playing with it for years then here's a little obvious tip that people often don't think of!
TAKE YOUR OLD CUE WITH YOU WHEN YOU GO TO PURCHASE A NEW ONE.
This way the seller can have a look and feel around your cue and if their a good stockist/seller and knowledgeable they will put 4 or 5 cues down on the table that are the same weight, length and tip size and after half hour (no rush) you can take your time to pick out your new weapon of choice😉Once you pick up the correct cue it's almost an instant bonding. You just know as the cue instantly just FEELS RIGHT....if you get that feeling ask for 20-30 minutes to do a few line ups on the practice table to make sure the cue feels right. Play all the different shots, top, screw, deep screw, side etc etc.
Once you know you know but selecting and purchasing a new cue should NEVER be rushed. A good quality cue should last you 30 to 40+ years if it's taken care of properly and is of high quality to begin with. If your new to snooker but have got the bug and are playing for or thinking of playing in the local league then bite the bullet and dig a little deeper in those pockets. The better quality cues tend to start from £250 upwards. Saying that as a beginner you can also get away with a mid range cue at around £110-£150.
I prefer Ash cues myself but be warned in my experience Ash cues tend to bend a little easier than say maple.
At the end of the day it doesn't matter how much you payed for your cue if you don't put thr practice in that cue won't do anything diff than a £30 Argos cue and that's a fact Jack😋
Some people are just naturals and could pot with a bloody walking stick😂apologies for the long post but I hope this will help somebody out there with these issues or buying a new cue or going for a decent upgrade.
Happy potting people🎱
Great post, too many good points for me to remember!!
It's interesting seeing other people's experiences; I guess you would expect all of ours to be the same over time.
Straightening cues is a strange one. I straighten many by hand as a first go and explain that unless they leave the cue with me to keep an eye on then they will need to return it if it moves again; I doubt I get back more than 1 in 30 although it may now be straight enough that players feel it's enough.
The kettle steamers are similar for bends 8" or further (from the tip) I would say but for the cues that have a bend under this distance it always seems a bit trickier.
These are the ones I like to leave in the steamer longer and clamp to ensure it affects the fibres in the wood.
As regards it returning to it's original position, my experience would say, was it's true original position straight or was it bent when it was first made? If it was straightened to sell it then once affected by moisture etc it may want to go back to bent. If it was straight to begin with and then been mistreated then steaming it may take it back to it's original stress free straightness.
Either way, every cue is certainly different and it's own puzzle as it won't give you any clues so it turns it into an enjoyable and sometimes frustrating project.
I take on lots of really old cues and some really damaged ones as I love to bring them back to former glories but they are all a challenge in different ways.
Just last night I was having a debate with a carpenter who struggled to believe that every cue won't go back to it's former straight position and stay there, I must be very lucky as this is not my experience and I try and build an environment where people are relaxed enough to come back if they have any issues.
When playing players in the league where I have worked on cues I will always take a look to see how a cues holding up.
As regards steaming, the length of time for me makes a massive difference, especially if trying to move a cue bend closer to the butt.
For me, as I'm sure you, it's certainly become a feel thing over the years so hard to explain sometimes but I'll try a few things as soon as I have a cue and see how the cue reacts before settling on a method.
Once a cue is complete I'll always refinish the whole thing so I know it's protected and discuss how to look after a cue with the customer.
Some cues have actually turned up to me 'wet for a tip change. When I say to people that you clearly keep the cue in the car they still can't work out how I would know!! These cues have an almost elastic feel where the fibres have been broken/loosened by moisture.
It's certainly nice to share experiences with other people (in my opinion), it's very rare in this trade!
@@marclockley3229 this is just what I've learnt myself after having to deal with my own cues after a good pissup & leaving the car at the club with the cue inside the car for a night or two. Not good. I sorted mine out about a month or 6wks ago with the kettle and pushing the tip down on the worktop....got it back close to 100% and its moved back slightly again so I will go at it again later on today. I bet if I removed all the outer layer of protection, gave it a few mins longer over the kettle, worked it as straight as I could by hand and clamped it for a week then refinished it then it would stay straight a lot longer....my gut feel is with this cue it is always going to bend after a while. Its a rather small tip end which also makes it more vulnerable to bending in my experience. An 8mm will twist/bend far easier than a 10mm imho. I'm sure you know this well already with your own handling and experience though. Good luck👍🏼have a Merry Christmas
@@taff6987 Yes, in the midst of winter I left a Burwatt Champion in a Datsun 100a when I was about 19 which broke the internal fibres of the cue down so much it was just like a piece of string and it was never the same.
When steaming, I always remove the surface finish of the cue so the hot moisture can soak through the cue; the more time over the kettle or in the steamer, the deeper the steam has penetrated and in my mind, the more likely to stay in that position without springback (after clamping).
All good fun.
Have a great Xmas mate and New Year.
That cue would perfectly mirror my cue action.
Really interesting video, I was surprised to see just how much the cue can bend without splitting.
I would love to see how you remove a old ferrule and add a new one. I’m considering switching to a titanium ferrule and it would be useful to see someone as experienced as yourself change one, maybe an idea for your next video?
Great content as always 👍
Thanks. The distance a cue will bend varies from shaft to shaft so so will fracture if past it's elastic limit, it is mostly a feel thing. Most of the titanium ferrules are a little shorter so you may possibly lose slight cue length. Normally because brass is soft you can take the diameter down a little to meet the end of the cue shaft, titanium in some cases won't budge without the right cutting tools so sometimes it's the cue diameter (wood) that is re-tapered to suit the ferrule.
If it's a one off then ferrules aren't best to be taken on by cue owners unless they're confident which is the main reason for not doing a video but maybe I'll get one up at some point, time permitting.
Hi Callum from my experience 41yrs I switched to a titanium ferrule last year to give it a try, I lasted 4 months and returned to brass. The difference just wasn't for me. Others love it, I guess you just got to try it for yourself
Now customers want some lovely handbent cues like the cue at the beginning. :-)
For getting out of snookers? I've thought about bending a cue so the tip point back towards the player, might be worth it just for the giggles.
@@marclockley7553 Next step will be a bent case for such a round cue.
A bent case for a bent snooker cue. I could do that but would cost a few n9n. Nice idea though.
Great work!
Really interesting Marc!
Thanks Mike.
Wow - I bought a Peradon from Cue Wizard with good quality ash and paid $700, but I didn't like the finish on it, so I sanded it down, gave it oil and beeswax. It wes OK for a while, but now it's bent slightly, probably because moisture is getting in.... Still - I reckon I can bend it back? Any suggestions what to do? regards re-finishing it, stop it bending again. etc.
Very informative Marc.
Cheers Paul. Hope all is well mate.
this might be a silly question but if i steamed a cue could i clamp it between two metal levels and leave it ? surely that would make it straight wouldnt it ?
Unfortunately not all tapers on each cue are a straight line, if they were then yes. Put between 2 straight edges and then steam. There can be a little spring back so it wouldn't be an exact method every time.
Turning a cue against a 6ft level with light behind it would give you a good idea of the existing taper.
Hi
Do you offer a straightening service.
A cue my Dad gave me has warped and I would like to straighten it
Could a humidifier do the same trick if left for a longer period of time?
Not sure what a long time would do to the woods structure. I've always believed in at last some form if heat transfer sone when couple with steam it seems the more obvious way to achieve movement.
That said it seems to be the most common way to reshape wood but that doesn't mean to say that someone isn't doing theirs by slowly saturating the wood.
How much do you charge for cue to be straighten please?
Apologies but every cue is different and also you have the various finishes which is why I generally only work on local customers cues.
The cue will start miscueing all the time ive seen someone else do this and it ended up causing miss cues esp on a snooker table
The trouble with using steam is once the cue dries and is straight it can move massively and be even more bent than it was before the steam
It's certainly a big topic. Obviously every piece of wood is different with its own internal stresses, some neutral and some wanting to move.
For a while now a few if us have been experimenting with different solutions (mixes) to stabilise and in some instances stiffen wood so it stays where you last moved it too.
All good fun.
Thanks for posting
No problem Eden. I'll post more videos as time allows.
Very interesting .💯🇯🇲🇬🇧👍
Is it possible to bend/ clamp the cue into position then apply the steam?
I guess if you have a steam gun that will reach even the section that the cue is clamped against. I would think it's still easier to steam first then quickly clamp.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 OK, thank you.
Have you had any success hanging cues?
Hi Sasha. I tried various methods of hanging with weights and even stripping the cues and even wetting them but none were as successful as steaming.
@@marclockley7553 OK no worries, I also restore old cues but live in Australia. Might give the steaming idea a go. Thanks
@@sashajasper497 I generally straighten by hand and see if that cures it over a few days. If the cue continually wants to go back but not too much of a bend I'll remove some of the surface finish to reveal the bare wood and then steam that area over a kettle and then move and see or move and clamp. If that still give me an issue I'll steam the whole shaft for a length of time, move back to straight with my hands and then clamp until completely dry and then take another look. Once complete I'll totally refinish the cue.
I rarely have to do anything past straightening with my hands on a dry cue and occasionally use a kettle and rarely use the steamer. Hope that helps
@@marclockley7553 Thanks, I did one last night over a wok with boiling water. I left it 10 minutes and it was surprising easy to bend into shape. I got it fairly straight and have had it hanging. i had a quick look down it this morning and it hasn't moved so will leave it and the sand back and oil it.
@@sashajasper497 Hi Sasha. Glad it went well. I do most of mine (steaming) over a kettle as with a kettle the majority of the steam is coming out of a small area so I can concentrate that on the area of bend.
what is the way to straighten the wooden butt when it is all painted?
Every cue is different so is it painted ash or rosewood etc. It has never been financially viable as the work would over take the value of a painted cue.
If it was painted ash I would generally strip the paint, steam it and then repaint and refinish it but every person has invested in a new cue rather than do this.
i hope that wasn't my cue!!!
hahahaha
Hi Theo. No mate, yours was very slight and done dry by hand. As we know the bend was the least of the problems lol.
Sir
You didn't show the process of steaming, I'm sure you could understand that no one wants to take chances...
Plz show us your steaming process
Hi
The purpose of the video was to prove that snooker cues could be straightened by the use of steam.
I had received some emails suggesting that it could not be done with ash.
Sorry, it wasn't to show how I had built a steaming rig for other people to do the same.
Maybe some day I will show the design but I am still making a living from refurbing, repairing and straightening cues.
So grandfather is turning in his grave , abusing someone's heirloom to prove a point leaving it worse ..... I presume the owner won't be happy
Wow Barry, did you watch the whole video?
The cue being straightened in the first part of the video is a mass produced modern budget cue that was part of a batch being thrown away as it had a loose weight and wasn't for sale, the manufacturer kindly let me have it for the video.
The second cue was a cue already restored previously by me that was the customers late Father (not Grandfather).
The cue prior to restoration was in such a bad state (due to it's years in the garage) that it was severely bent, wet, dented, no real grain filler, a broken ferrule and in such a bad state that it was obviously unplayable.
What I showed in the video was the finished example, this wasn't the cue bent in the first part of the video.
Contrary to your comments, the refurbished cue was picked up by a very happy customer the next week and is now used by him on a weekly basis playing with friends.
He commented how pleased his Father would have been to have seen it back to new and he would take great pleasure being able to use something his Father had used all those years.
I've completed many restoration projects on cues left to loved ones and enjoyed every bit of the emotions when they collect the finished item; I get more satisfaction from this compared to anything else I do so am obviously disappointed when after all that effort I see damaging comments like yours.
If you would like to see close ups of the completed cue handed back to the customer then you can see them on Facebook on "The Snooker Crazy Group." Post dated 17/10/2022.
Hopefully this answers the comments you made and you'll take the time to see the nice example handed back to the customer.