during a race is not the time to test new settings. get a tire pyrometer and do steady state skid pad. it will tell you what your camber and tire pressures should be. 4* camber will definitely lower braking force. That's why cars use lots of caster to give camber in turns. Swap cars with the fastest driver. you'll learn what your car should feel like, and he can suggest improvements.
When I started autocrossing I wasn't competitive so I was using the events as R&D. This year I've moved from the 75th fastest (out of 100 cars), to 17th with all the setup changes I've made. This video in particular showed the inside of my tires not touching the ground at all, so pretty easy to decide to add more camber. Any contact would be a big improvement. I increased my rear camber in increments, all the way to 3.5* which is when my times got slower and my traction got worse coming out of slow corners. So I backed off to 2.5* which gave me my best times and helped with straight line traction like you mentioned. I do run high caster on my front wheels (6*) with only -1* of camber, which is working great. Front end traction hasn't been my issue this year. I just bought a pyrometer but haven't had a chance to use it. I know the skid pad is a standard method but I'd prefer data from a race day. A skid pad assumes steady leaning at 1 speed. During autocross you spend a lot of time switching between fully leaning left vs fully leaning right, and at speeds between 20-60mph. I may only spend 25% of my time at full lean at a skid pad's speed, so I don't want to tune my car for just that 1 condition. If my car spends 70% of it's time at a half lean, I'm going to tune for that. Which I think would be more accurately captured from race data which accounts for all the different turns and speeds the car goes through.
Try like -3° next time. I'm in a street class, and I use -2.5°f/-1.5°r. Other friends with more serious XA/XB and ST builds have more in the neighborhood of -4° to -2.5° or so, depending on car. For autocross, though, go a lot farther up on camber than you would normally use on a road course.
@@mikecamera818 you'll probably start to get there around -3 to -4, based on how stuff I've driven in the past felt. why do you want to find that out, specifically?
If I jump to -4deg and create a problem or the car is difficult to drive, I wouldn't know how much to back off. I'd rather change 1deg at a time and watch how things are changing. It'll give me a chance to adjust my driving and find what I like. More info will just help me optimize my setup and I find it interesting.
@@mikecamera818 good call. try to make the changes between runs, if possible. or maybe spend a day doing doubles if your region offers it. run your first heat of runs with it at your baseline camber setup, and then change it to what you're considering for the second heat and then write all your thoughts down as your having them between runs. it's usually better to try and make changes back to back if possible as opposed to making them potentially a couple of weeks apart.
during a race is not the time to test new settings. get a tire pyrometer and do steady state skid pad. it will tell you what your camber and tire pressures should be. 4* camber will definitely lower braking force. That's why cars use lots of caster to give camber in turns.
Swap cars with the fastest driver. you'll learn what your car should feel like, and he can suggest improvements.
When I started autocrossing I wasn't competitive so I was using the events as R&D. This year I've moved from the 75th fastest (out of 100 cars), to 17th with all the setup changes I've made. This video in particular showed the inside of my tires not touching the ground at all, so pretty easy to decide to add more camber. Any contact would be a big improvement.
I increased my rear camber in increments, all the way to 3.5* which is when my times got slower and my traction got worse coming out of slow corners. So I backed off to 2.5* which gave me my best times and helped with straight line traction like you mentioned. I do run high caster on my front wheels (6*) with only -1* of camber, which is working great. Front end traction hasn't been my issue this year.
I just bought a pyrometer but haven't had a chance to use it. I know the skid pad is a standard method but I'd prefer data from a race day. A skid pad assumes steady leaning at 1 speed. During autocross you spend a lot of time switching between fully leaning left vs fully leaning right, and at speeds between 20-60mph. I may only spend 25% of my time at full lean at a skid pad's speed, so I don't want to tune my car for just that 1 condition. If my car spends 70% of it's time at a half lean, I'm going to tune for that. Which I think would be more accurately captured from race data which accounts for all the different turns and speeds the car goes through.
Try like -3° next time. I'm in a street class, and I use -2.5°f/-1.5°r. Other friends with more serious XA/XB and ST builds have more in the neighborhood of -4° to -2.5° or so, depending on car. For autocross, though, go a lot farther up on camber than you would normally use on a road course.
I agree I need more but I'm taking small steps to get there. I want to see what camber level starts to hurt my straight line acceleration / braking.
@@mikecamera818 you'll probably start to get there around -3 to -4, based on how stuff I've driven in the past felt. why do you want to find that out, specifically?
If I jump to -4deg and create a problem or the car is difficult to drive, I wouldn't know how much to back off. I'd rather change 1deg at a time and watch how things are changing. It'll give me a chance to adjust my driving and find what I like. More info will just help me optimize my setup and I find it interesting.
@@mikecamera818 good call. try to make the changes between runs, if possible. or maybe spend a day doing doubles if your region offers it. run your first heat of runs with it at your baseline camber setup, and then change it to what you're considering for the second heat and then write all your thoughts down as your having them between runs. it's usually better to try and make changes back to back if possible as opposed to making them potentially a couple of weeks apart.