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I'm glad it helped! It's not an intuitive process and figured I wouldn't be the only one needing to replace these parts.

Yeah on the fuel pump wires. Swapped it to a crimp connector so there's no solder to crack and fail again.

Thanks! Cost is one of the biggest questions when going down the kit car path.

@@mikecamera818 A very comprehensive run down and very much appreciated. I've been looking at an 818 or a GTM but prices start to creep quickly there!

Thanks for watching!

I know at least 1 person modified the car to fit a K. That would be a great setup for the track. The EJ gets a lot of hate but it's potent. Mine has run great for 4 years and with just a tune it makes 275hp and 300tq at 3500rpm. It's a great match for this light car on the street / autocross.

@@mikecamera818 wow! Thanks for the response.

Absolutely. Aero is on my list of potential upgrades this winter. I think the low speed is why several cars have huge spoilers. Not a ton of air to shape, so they need to capture a lot of it. I've spent this entire season increasing my rear grip so a spoiler seems like a good start. My front grip hasn't been the limiting factor yet. Not sure about putting things under the car though since I drive this on the street and it's already low.

Heat gun really helps. I've had no problems with my interior panels after 2 years so far.

Usually not, but the videos have been useful a couple times on race day. Watching them more would probably help. After a run I can tell which turns I'm not pushing the car hard enough. Either the tires aren't squirming/shuffling, or I can hug the inside of a turn too well meaning I'm not carrying enough speed for the car to start pushing/drifting outwards a little. On the other end, if I enter a turn too fast it's pretty obvious as I have to brake to avoid hitting cones. Or if I brake too hard going into a turn, the car can bog down or feel slow exiting the turn. Takes a little time to learn your limits but you need to try new things and make mistakes. Talking to and riding with a more experienced driver helped me learn more quickly.

Thanks@@mikecamera818, it must also be a fine balance between not pushing hard enough, and pushing too hard. I guess that reviewing the videos after helps you to figure out what is working and what isn't. The 818 looks like a fun car, did you build it youself?

Exactly. I make little mistakes every run and only have 5 runs to fix those mistakes and put it all together for 1 fastest lap. It's a challenge to learn the course and fix mistakes that quickly. Yeah I built it myself. My channel has a lot of videos on my build, the costs, issues, and racing development. It's been a really fun project over the last 4 years.

Cheers @mikecamera818 , I had a look at the channel and one of the build videos. It's great quality, the video and the build, I'll have a look at some more. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks! It's been a successful year of learning and improving.

@@mikecamera818 The cars was always really cool even when you were making slower laps than a stock Miata. Hope to see it even faster over the next year!

I still felt a need to prove this car was fast. I spent so long building it and on paper it should be a great performance car. It's amazing how far it's come with some adjustments. I'm even more proud now. Thanks! I have some plans to keep moving up next year.

The 818 is a great foundation and more than an exo skeleton car, but not quite production car quality. I have a friend with a DF Goblin and I crush him at autocross now despite him being a lighter car with an equally strong supercharged cobalt engine and stickier tires. Something I've learned with this car is how important the setup is. My car performed in the bottom 20% when I started autocross. Only recently have I gotten into the top 20% with a couple upgrades and a lot of setup changes. Depends what you want to use your car for, but these hand built cars take some development even after they're finished being built.

@@mikecamera818 I feel like they are missing out since they no longer make the 818 anymore. Need a replacement.

Thanks! Still looks great 4 years later.

It wasn't a hard process once I found the right person to help. The county clerks offices (Lexington and Frankfort) didn't know what to do. I had to contact the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet for directions and to apply for a new VIN number. Then contact the county sheriff to come inspect the car which took 2 min. The Sheriff gave me a signed paper so I could get a title, registration, and plates. Since I built my car with used parts I had to apply for a rebuilt title.

@mikecamera818 thanks for the info I don't like the salvage title but I guess it is what it is

It's a 2016 Hyundai Tucson. If you lookup your replacement part, you can figure out if it's an assembly or just a replacement bearing that needs pressed in. I would guess it's an assembly like in this video. Thanks!

Glad it helped!

Just a simple swap. Plug and play.

@@mikecamera818 man yeah I hope it’s going to be that easy. Had a car detailer literally wrecked eight out of 12 buttons just had to buy replacement modules for every single door.

Ouch, that's an expensive cleaning

No water pump but I have a trans fluid change video I'm working on. Should be done within a week.

No problem!

Lol let's avoid them for as many things as possible

Thanks! I was surprised how poorly I did when I started autocrossing. This car should be a great platform and I was in the bottom 20% of my first few races. I'm happy to say it just took a couple simple upgrades and fine tuning the setup to jump into the top 25%. On a fairly typical 818 build with the stock engine and kit's suspension. A lot more potential if I upgrade a few big items.

Keep up the nice progress Mike.. you’ll be in the top 10 in no time I’m also figuring out my 818 set up as well using an H6 EZ 30 Here’s some links if interested Go kart Track test / race ruclips.net/video/a5PzxIZdpm4/видео.htmlsi=MKVW511DMSHiD6UE High speed test ruclips.net/video/3xf7vkrgFJM/видео.htmlsi=YSDksTdFXh5UbTQV

@luisking4812 thanks! That's what I'm shooting for. Glad to see you're enjoying your 818! That H6 looks like a good match for this small of car.

It's a low profile Craftsman aluminum floor jack. I also recommend an adapter like this one to help hold the car securely. a.co/d/18vgFqf I also put a jack stand under the control arm as a backup for safety.

Thank you! Hoping there's some helpful info in there.

That would be better. I have a resin printer though, so I wanted to try it.

@@mikecamera818 You also might try to put the mold into a freezer for 30 minutes or so before attempting to extract the part. It can help to brake the bond without ruining the mold.

This just shows how to replace your broken switches. If your window still doesn't work it may be a blown fuse or dead window motor. You'll have to dig deeper.

I'm not familiar with the auto blocker. Maybe you mean some auto lock feature on an active diff? Typically old oil doesn't disable features like that. I'm guessing, but it sounds like something else failed. Electronically or mechanically. I don't think changing your oil will fix your problem.

Been here for 2.5 years!

Thanks! Always putting out new videos as I get the car dialed in!

Glad you enjoyed it!

You can find aftermarket filters at a store like Autozone or Walmart. If you want a Mercedes filter you'll have to go to a dealership or order it.

Glad it helped you figure it out!

In my video I show how there's a hook on the bottom, so you have to pry the top up first. The switch kind of sticks to the leather around it, so I had to pull up a little harder to get it free. I doubt there's a screw holding it. Pretty common that the switches just push into the door for most auto makers.

@@mikecamera818 It finally worked. Thank you. I just needed to push a bit harder and I had to get a better prying tool. I was afraid to break stuff so I didn't push as hard last time I tried. Thanks again! Awesome video!

Glad it helped! Now you can put that money towards something more fun.

If you're rough you might be able to scratch the rotor. Helps to keep the flat head of the screwdriver flat against the rotor when prying, but I didn't see any damage during my change. Rotors already see rocks/debris on the road. I'm not concerned about it.

Yeah it's a big build and not everybody wants to take on such a long project. I really enjoyed it though. Building is half the fun. There are builders that will build the kit for you, but you'll spend $65k on an 818 convertible with Forma. www.formacars.com/formacars-ffr-818

Glad it helped!

The manual impact driver that I used to remove the brake rotor screws? Any impact driver with a Phillips head attachment will work.

@@mikecamera818 The Ryobi, how about that one?

This is what I have. Has 300lb ft of torque to get the lug nuts off easily. www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-3-Speed-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-P261/205885687

@@mikecamera818 also can you help me find me a hub? I can’t seem to find one for a reasonable price. I need to a front driver side wheel bearing/hub but for my car it’s a bit difficult to find or if I find one they seem to be over price like $300

Yeah they paused the 818 last year. Not sure if they are discontinuing it, releasing a 3rd gen, or just paused to focus on higher volume cars like the roadster. The 818 is an awesome platform at a low price. Hopefully they offer something similar again.

The front diff shares fluid with the trans. You only need to change the trans fluid in the front.

Here are the results from my last autocross. I'm in 34th place overall. There are 2 stock WRX's, in 75th and 82nd and a heavily modified STI in 38th. All behind me. Also way more fun to build a custom car from the ground up than just buy an off the shelf car :) www.ckrscca.org/live/RawDay1.html

You do know everything about the car, including every imperfection. A couple people have modified the car to fit a K Series. Definitely a more awkward layout for this kit but possible. I know the Subaru engines aren't loved by everybody but they're a compact, potent turbo engine for cheap. A great match for this car unless you're doing some serious racing. I prefer speed over mileage but a TDI would be cool!

Much easier to replace the hub as shown in my video. That's how the replacement part is sold. If you can track down just the bearing you'll have to press the old one out and press the new one in which requires you to remove the hub anyways. It'll be more work.

No problem!

~1 liter. You're supposed to fill until the fluid leaks out of the fill hole. It's explained at 1:40 in the video.

I agree I need more but I'm taking small steps to get there. I want to see what camber level starts to hurt my straight line acceleration / braking.

@@mikecamera818 you'll probably start to get there around -3 to -4, based on how stuff I've driven in the past felt. why do you want to find that out, specifically?

If I jump to -4deg and create a problem or the car is difficult to drive, I wouldn't know how much to back off. I'd rather change 1deg at a time and watch how things are changing. It'll give me a chance to adjust my driving and find what I like. More info will just help me optimize my setup and I find it interesting.

@@mikecamera818 good call. try to make the changes between runs, if possible. or maybe spend a day doing doubles if your region offers it. run your first heat of runs with it at your baseline camber setup, and then change it to what you're considering for the second heat and then write all your thoughts down as your having them between runs. it's usually better to try and make changes back to back if possible as opposed to making them potentially a couple of weeks apart.

I've correlated the trip computer with filling/calculating. It's very similar. Accuracy is also less of a concern when both tests were done the same way, apples to apples. This was just a quick comparison and the trend holds true. Slowing down has a bigger effect than cruising tuned vs untuned.

I would guess it's similar but have never done one

Glad you found it useful!

Lol exactly why I made this video. I thought it was going to be complicated too until I started working on it.

@@mikecamera818 do you have any idea where to find an orange lit one? Mine ended up being white in color so at night it looks off

@@TheBrokeBoyMycologist this is the one I bought. The part number has changed slightly though. The plastic under my buttons is white instead of black like my original switch, but nobody will ever notice. It lights up orange like the rest of my interior switches. www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-door-window-switch-panel-genuine-mercedes-22290568007h52

Definitely doesn't hurt to have some extra weight over the drive wheels

Thanks! I'm not sure if I'll ever sell it though!

That sounds like a much better process. I was trying to see how good a simpler process was, but of course it had its downsides.