Good to hear from you Pete. Lots of measurements. That balancing the whole rotating mass, and perfect alignment with all the components makes for a enjoyable driving experience. Lots of great info. Thank you.
Travelingman 1997 theres not that many measurements, ive been mating up clutches, transmissions and bellhousings for 40 years and ive never run into any suspect problems he spoke of but then again mine was regular equiptment not expensive racing stuff
Watching this just makes me doubt anyone else that won't have as much attention to detail as you would, I need my throw out bearing replaced on my 03 Cobra and I wanted to go with a hydraulic setup.
Hey Pete, awesome videos! I can't thank you enough for giving me the guidance and confidence to undertake my own project (2 years ago now). I built my first engine from an empty 9.5"W block using a 408W stroker kit like you did throughout your fantastic series. This was my first go at building an engine, and I used your videos as a guide for the build. I had it chassis dyno'ed last year and it met my expected goals for the parts (461whp & 475wtq through an Astro T5), and it was one of the most exciting and nerve racking experiences I had, it was such a rush! I ended up selling that short block because I had the opportunity to purchase at a real bargain a brand new Boss 9.5" Ford Racing block. So this summer I built a 427W and installed it back into the same vehicle. I haven't had this one on the dyno yet, I'm using a PiMPxs ECU for the tune with the help of a wideband. I drove it all summer long, and it never fails to put a smile on my face. This winter I'll be building a twin turbo system to put on the 427W, while building the entire system (hot and cold sides) and assembling it in my garage at home. I will have the luxury of assistance from a friend who has experience building and racing his home built turbo Fox (it's an LS swapped Fox, but we're still friends lol). Without you and these video's, I really don't believe I would have done any of this myself. I think my wife might cuss you out for encouraging me, but you're still THE MAN!!!!! LOL One thing you might of mentioned in this one was what you'd have to do if your safety bellhousing was in fact out of tolerance. I used the same Quicktime bell for my project and it was within .005" tolerance for the stock block 408, but was out of tolerance for the Boss block where I had to purchase and use offset dowel pins (no biggie). Perhaps a brief explanation would help others. Thanks Pete, your knowledge is mind boggling. all the best....
Thank you very much Stan....you made my whole year! Sounds like a great project (although with an LS dude). You are right about the dowel pins. if the bellhousing is off you need to get those offset pins. Next time I do one I'll include that.
Very thorough video Pete. I'm going to be installing a Tremec in my 69 Torino later this month and this video was exactly what the doctor ordered. I'm going to find your custom drive shaft video so I will be tracking on that. Thanks man. Good stuff
Wow that is a new tool for me Pete that thickness gauge tool for the powdercoat. Nice, I had no idea it existed. Nice job explaining everything as always.
Hey Pete. Great job with this video. I've got the same RAM clutch and their install instructions are really crappy. You cleared it all up around which way the clutch disc installs. Thanks!!
Very good Pete! I know this is an old one but good like all others. I am having clutch problems with my T5. Have not put the body on my Cobra yet. I put a pedal box from a Mustang II as the Street beast recommended. However, I think I am regretting it since I cannot get the car to clutch. Seems like the fork came out of place and I cannot get this go back. I am at the point since I purchased Willwood pedals that I have not used, of just pulling the T5 and going with Hydraulic clutch. The reason why I did not go with the pedals was because it seems like alot of fabrication and I do not have welder. Stuck between a rock and a hard place. But I cannot get this clutch to work. WOuld this Tilton set up work on my T5? Seems like it would. Then I will have no choice but to rip out the pedal box and just redo it all. My Willwood pedal box is forward mount for Master cylinder. I would have to also purchase a cylinder for the clutch. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
The Tilton will work in place of any clutch cable. If you use the Mustang pedals you have to change the clutch quadrant from plastic to a metal one. The plastic ones strip and break often. A cylinder for the clutch is not too expensive. Use a 1" if you can.
@@PetesGarage Thank you so much Pete. I am prob just going to cut my loss and go with the tilton, wilwood pedals, and add the MC for the clutch. 1" Master cylinder?
What do you use to close out the open area in the bell housing where the hydraulic lines run? I’m building a Type 65 Coupe with a 408 and TKX with a steel QuickTime bell housing. Thanks!
TIR or total indicator runout is half of the difference. If I moved the bellhousing .0045 towards the zero side it would still be .0045 out the other way. The zero is just a reference
Nice video, you torqued the last red outer plate on. After that's done should the clutch plates still rotate freely? I am doing exactly what you just showed. The clutch plates no longer rotate freely when trying to turn via the alignment tool. any thoughts
Hi pete im looking to convert my blown smallblock camaro 1972 350 hughes turbo auto to manual tko 600 is there anything i should beware of when purchasing all the parts needed for the convert? Im in newzealand and parts shipped from usa are not cheap so ordering the correct RIGHT parts would be a great help. Any information /ideas /watchouts would be very much appreciated cheers.
If you get the correct bellhousing, the tranny should bolt right up. The clutch and flywheel should also be pretty straightforward. A TKO is a fairly simple swap
Hi Pete Love the videos. I am in the process of building 427 stroker based on 351W. I have looking for backing plate shown in the video and I cannot find it on either Jegs or Summit. Does it have another name? Part number?
Hi all can anyone recommend a reliable hydraulic clutch system.tried using a cable clutch from modern driveline on my 65 mustang with my T5 box with a cobra clutch. Apart from being unbelievably heavy,the cable can't be routed past my headman headers so melts . Would prefer to use a slave cylinder as opposed to using a throw out bearing. Read bad reviews on some of the systems on sale, just wondered if problems have been solved now.
sorry, but I've never seen a mechanical clutch fail, but I have seen a lot of hydraulic clutches fail. Just replaced the slave cylinder in my dad's Dodge ram, and his F150's slave cylinder gave out three times in as many years. Conversely, my 77 Chevy K20 has been in service for forty years, and it's mechanical system has survived five new clutch disks, and is still going strong. hydraulic systems are more prone to failure, they use brake fluid, witch turns acidic after a few years and can deteriorate the seals, causing failure, so they do require periodic fluid changes to prevent such from happening, but doing so can be a pain, especially if you screw up and get air in the system, as some master cylinders for what ever reason seam to only respond to bench bleeding, witch can turn an already tedious task into a mother-lovin'-pain-in-the-ass
josh ziesmer brake fluid should be changed at minimum every 2 years so that should never happen. it's in every service manual.. hell it's probably even in the owners manual.
I'll level with you. A hydraulic release bearing that's mounted outside of the transmission, with the old school mechanical clutch lever, aimed 45 degrees to the ground, so you can tighten a stud against the release bearing and look inside the transmission while you do it, and make it perfect.
Good to hear from you Pete. Lots of measurements. That balancing the whole rotating mass, and perfect alignment with all the components makes for a enjoyable driving experience. Lots of great info. Thank you.
Thanks Steve
thanks for sharing it with us, it's to see someone who measures concentricity before assembly.
Thank you
Nice instructions Pete, didn't know there were so many measurements in fitting a clutch, bellhousing and bearing.
There is a lot to it, I tried to focus on the important measurements.
Travelingman 1997 theres not that many measurements, ive been mating up clutches, transmissions and bellhousings for 40 years and ive never run into any suspect problems he spoke of but then again mine was regular equiptment not expensive racing stuff
Watching this just makes me doubt anyone else that won't have as much attention to detail as you would, I need my throw out bearing replaced on my 03 Cobra and I wanted to go with a hydraulic setup.
That would be an upgrade
Hey Pete, awesome videos! I can't thank you enough for giving me the guidance and confidence to undertake my own project (2 years ago now). I built my first engine from an empty 9.5"W block using a 408W stroker kit like you did throughout your fantastic series. This was my first go at building an engine, and I used your videos as a guide for the build. I had it chassis dyno'ed last year and it met my expected goals for the parts (461whp & 475wtq through an Astro T5), and it was one of the most exciting and nerve racking experiences I had, it was such a rush!
I ended up selling that short block because I had the opportunity to purchase at a real bargain a brand new Boss 9.5" Ford Racing block. So this summer I built a 427W and installed it back into the same vehicle. I haven't had this one on the dyno yet, I'm using a PiMPxs ECU for the tune with the help of a wideband. I drove it all summer long, and it never fails to put a smile on my face.
This winter I'll be building a twin turbo system to put on the 427W, while building the entire system (hot and cold sides) and assembling it in my garage at home. I will have the luxury of assistance from a friend who has experience building and racing his home built turbo Fox (it's an LS swapped Fox, but we're still friends lol). Without you and these video's, I really don't believe I would have done any of this myself. I think my wife might cuss you out for encouraging me, but you're still THE MAN!!!!! LOL
One thing you might of mentioned in this one was what you'd have to do if your safety bellhousing was in fact out of tolerance. I used the same Quicktime bell for my project and it was within .005" tolerance for the stock block 408, but was out of tolerance for the Boss block where I had to purchase and use offset dowel pins (no biggie). Perhaps a brief explanation would help others.
Thanks Pete, your knowledge is mind boggling. all the best....
Thank you very much Stan....you made my whole year! Sounds like a great project (although with an LS dude). You are right about the dowel pins. if the bellhousing is off you need to get those offset pins. Next time I do one I'll include that.
Very thorough video Pete. I'm going to be installing a Tremec in my 69 Torino later this month and this video was exactly what the doctor ordered. I'm going to find your custom drive shaft video so I will be tracking on that. Thanks man. Good stuff
I love that car! Good luck and tell Denny I said hi
great info Pete. i sure learned many good things about clutch and bellhousing today . keep up with good work.
Thank you my friend....
Wow that is a new tool for me Pete that thickness gauge tool for the powdercoat. Nice, I had no idea it existed. Nice job explaining everything as always.
Thanks again Paul. i use that gauge all the time when guys tell me a car has no body work. They are often suprised
Great video. You certainly ocvered some good checks in there that I'll be copying.
Thanks my friend
Awesome,detailed explanation.
Thanks so much for this!
You're very welcome!
Hey Pete. Great job with this video. I've got the same RAM clutch and their install instructions are really crappy. You cleared it all up around which way the clutch disc installs. Thanks!!
Thanks Mac, that's why I make videos, to help people and top clear up crappy instructions.
Excellent video!!
Thank you my friend
Hey Pete, how do you know that the throw out bearing's sleeve won't just rotate back into the bearing housing with the motor vibration?
It has an o-ring on the ID to hold it in place.
Very good Pete! I know this is an old one but good like all others. I am having clutch problems with my T5. Have not put the body on my Cobra yet. I put a pedal box from a Mustang II as the Street beast recommended. However, I think I am regretting it since I cannot get the car to clutch. Seems like the fork came out of place and I cannot get this go back. I am at the point since I purchased Willwood pedals that I have not used, of just pulling the T5 and going with Hydraulic clutch. The reason why I did not go with the pedals was because it seems like alot of fabrication and I do not have welder. Stuck between a rock and a hard place. But I cannot get this clutch to work. WOuld this Tilton set up work on my T5? Seems like it would. Then I will have no choice but to rip out the pedal box and just redo it all. My Willwood pedal box is forward mount for Master cylinder. I would have to also purchase a cylinder for the clutch. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
The Tilton will work in place of any clutch cable. If you use the Mustang pedals you have to change the clutch quadrant from plastic to a metal one. The plastic ones strip and break often. A cylinder for the clutch is not too expensive. Use a 1" if you can.
@@PetesGarage Thank you so much Pete. I am prob just going to cut my loss and go with the tilton, wilwood pedals, and add the MC for the clutch. 1" Master cylinder?
This is a really good video
Thanks my friend
What do you use to close out the open area in the bell housing where the hydraulic lines run? I’m building a Type 65 Coupe with a 408 and TKX with a steel QuickTime bell housing.
Thanks!
I leave it open
1:20 AM here in San Diego where there is plenty of rust free muscle 🚙 cars⚒🔧🔥🚗💨💨💨🏁That 427 Will be great in a Ford Maverick
You're lucky
Hi Pete! Why do you divide the runout 9000s with half? The indicator are measuring the radius runout so I am not with you there?
TIR or total indicator runout is half of the difference. If I moved the bellhousing .0045 towards the zero side it would still be .0045 out the other way. The zero is just a reference
Thanks Pete! My brain needed some time to compute!! :) Great videos I am looking at all of them! Keep up the good work!
You should run the dial indicator around finding the highest positive number and make that your "zero" first.
ok now it makes sense,why aren't better direction sent with bearing kit.i sure paid enough for this kit.thank you for simplicity on install
I though the directions were terrible so I made the video
Nice video, you torqued the last red outer plate on. After that's done should the clutch plates still rotate freely? I am doing exactly what you just showed. The clutch plates no longer rotate freely when trying to turn via the alignment tool. any thoughts
When you torque it down the plates will not move. The clutch springs are pressing down on it.
Damn, that engine is beautiful!
So far so good.
I learned a few things today thanks
We are all here to learn
Since you know so much I'm going from auto trans to a muncie 4 sp in a 77 c10 can I use a hydraulic throw out bearing in my swap
Contact Tilton and ask if they have a product for your application
Thank you for getting back with me and yes thank you they got me all fixed up
Hey pete I wanted to know if the tko600 will handle 650 hp without blowing anything up 🤔
As long as you have the driveshaft and rear end to handle it, no problem
Thanks pete ! 🙏
Hi pete im looking to convert my blown smallblock camaro 1972 350 hughes turbo auto to manual tko 600 is there anything i should beware of when purchasing all the parts needed for the convert? Im in newzealand and parts shipped from usa are not cheap so ordering the correct RIGHT parts would be a great help. Any information /ideas /watchouts would be very much appreciated cheers.
If you get the correct bellhousing, the tranny should bolt right up. The clutch and flywheel should also be pretty straightforward. A TKO is a fairly simple swap
But will that same setup work behind my 460/ 502 that you're going to help me build??
Sure it will
Great video
Thanks!
Helps a lot.Thanks
Thanks very informative, I’m installing (engine to trans) then assembly in car.
Awesome, good luck
Making motor mounts?! Yes!
Coming up soon
Great videos Pete. What clutch did you use on your 427?
Thanks Rod, I used a Hayes dual friction
Isn`t there a possibility that this threader sleeve from hydraulic bearing turns it self by vibrations? There is no locking nut or anything.
That is a common question. I will be addressing that when I take the powertrain back out. The sleeve has an o-ring on the inside to hold it in place.
Hi Pete Love the videos. I am in the process of building 427 stroker based on 351W. I have looking for backing plate shown in the video and I cannot find it on either Jegs or Summit. Does it have another name? Part number?
The bell housing spacer plate?
@@PetesGarage Hi Pete Thanks for responding. Is the spacer needed or for certain applications?
You should have it on every engine.
Hi, perfect work
Great video, thank you for sharing
Thank you my friend
Hi all can anyone recommend a reliable hydraulic clutch system.tried using a cable clutch from modern driveline on my 65 mustang with my T5 box with a cobra clutch. Apart from being unbelievably heavy,the cable can't be routed past my headman headers so melts . Would prefer to use a slave cylinder as opposed to using a throw out bearing. Read bad reviews on some of the systems on sale, just wondered if problems have been solved now.
You need to have some kind of throw out bearing
Hello Sir, if I bought a Cobra 427 motor then how much will it cost in India ..
I have no idea
I am speaking from India .. I have read ITI welder. So I have copied Cobra car, so I want to put real motor in it ..
So help me a little bit ..
Why can't I get here ...
I still want to be like you..that is the beginning…
Where do you know al of this?
Experience and reading my friend
sorry, but I've never seen a mechanical clutch fail, but I have seen a lot of hydraulic clutches fail. Just replaced the slave cylinder in my dad's Dodge ram, and his F150's slave cylinder gave out three times in as many years. Conversely, my 77 Chevy K20 has been in service for forty years, and it's mechanical system has survived five new clutch disks, and is still going strong. hydraulic systems are more prone to failure, they use brake fluid, witch turns acidic after a few years and can deteriorate the seals, causing failure, so they do require periodic fluid changes to prevent such from happening, but doing so can be a pain, especially if you screw up and get air in the system, as some master cylinders for what ever reason seam to only respond to bench bleeding, witch can turn an already tedious task into a mother-lovin'-pain-in-the-ass
josh ziesmer brake fluid should be changed at minimum every 2 years so that should never happen. it's in every service manual.. hell it's probably even in the owners manual.
Josh your living in the past bro. Move into the future.
John D the future has to earn me....
Time and tide wait on no one. Have a great life because it's short.
I'll level with you. A hydraulic release bearing that's mounted outside of the transmission, with the old school mechanical clutch lever, aimed 45 degrees to the ground, so you can tighten a stud against the release bearing and look inside the transmission while you do it, and make it perfect.
Damn dude I'm going to tell you there you can get a little bit even too technical measuring point two mills on your paint! I mean come on!
I've never had a valvetrain fail for being too accurate
The anti rotate is very cheesy...!!!!
It is, but it functions well.