what an excellent tutorial i was literally doing a tumbler within 5 minutes after watching this tutorial. I only had to adjust power down, i took 750 and 60% power on my Raycus 30W and it turned out the 500mm/s and 30% was better. First i used 20Khz, but now i am trying a sugar skull at 50kHz. let's see how that turns out, but thanks so much, your videos got me up an running within minutes!
SILVER/GOLD RING ENGRAVING. Thank you so much! I used these instructions to set up my rotary with my 50watt JPT fiber laser, I just used your instructions and everything worked like a charm! THANKS AGAIN!
Things I learned in setting up my Rotary 1) No matter how many times you pray to god, he will not help you align and level your cylinder. 2) Your rotary is not intimidated when you curse at it and swear you are going to throw it out a window
This is a great video and I was successfully able to make my first tumblers, thanks bud! One question I had was the red tool you used for measuring lense height, where can I get one of those?
Glad to hear it was helpful. I cut and made the focal stick myself after measuring the exact focal distance for each lens on my CO2. You can probably pick some up on Etsy if don't have a CO2 available.
Thank you so much for this very informative tutorials. I had my rotary chuck for almost 8 months now, but I was intimidated to set it up with my fiber laser. I finally have the courage to try it after this video. BTW, what is that red thingy that you are using to focus? Thanks.
Glad the content helped! :) The red stick thing we are using there, we call it a focal stick. It's just a piece of acrylic basically thats cut to the length of focus for between the lens and material engrave surface. We use it almost like a feeler gauge to get things quickly into focus consistently, nothing fancy :) Could just use a wood dowel with a piece of wood to make an end to touch the metal edges of the lens or similar cut down wood or acrylic. There's some alternatives the community make and sell on the Maker Remix Marketplace too
It's not a software limitation, there are physically no hardware pins for an extension axis on your board. You'd have to replace it if you wanted that functionality.
I am trying to engrave on something flat now and my lightburn software thinks that I am still using the rotary, how do I dissable this so it will engrave on flat surfaces again?
I have a question do you ever wipe your lens down or clean it? I was told not to but after doing a bunch of yeti cups like 200 I’ve noticed I have a powder build up on any suggestions
I don't find I need to often but when I do I just use windex and a microfiber cloth. They aren't as sensitive as I once thought. Pretty thicc hunks of glass - just don't scrub on them.
I have the opposite problem. My image (test line) falls WAY short. I’ve double checked the steps per rotation and it’s set to exactly what the controller is set too. How does the controller determine what it needs to be? Could that be set wrong?
I have followed instructions exactly like in the video and my rotary chuck just keeps spinning and starts and one end it seems like it just not enought power. Can you please help me?
very frustrating when your lightburn for galvo doesn't look like my version of lightburn. can you confirm if your version 1.2.00 looks identical to lightburn 1.5.06? I have a clean install of lightburn with my new cloudray fiber laser and the options i see don't match yours.
I have a problem, when it is doing the work the rotator returns and continues with the work, that made my tumbler lose It should be noted that I have all my configuration almost like the one in the video
We can't really get into it in the RUclips comments as it's not the best place for more intensive support threads but we do have a few options where you can get help. Either check out Discord Server or Facebook group - links in the description - or you can check out our new forum over at www.lasereverything.net/forum and I'm sure we can get you pointed in the right direction.
I have this same rotary and essentially the same fiber galvo laser. Will it make a big difference if it isn’t bolted down? I travel with my laser and it wouldn’t be very convenient to have it bolted down the way I have my laser set up. Thanks! Very helpful video!
Won't make a huge difference if you're doing one offs but if you are doing many tumblers and replacing the tumbler each time you can easily knock the rotary off center if it isn't bolted down which will mess up subsequent tumblers. Definitely recommend bolting it down if you can, otherwise swap tumblers verrrrry carefully.
Hi, is possible use pedal to start rotary? Pedal on rotary only open start window and I need use F2 to start marking... I'm doing a auto engrave machine, I need pedal signal start rotary mark
i was wondering if mi rotatory chuck vibrates a lot on small things like a pen or screwdriver , but in tumblers works fine , did you experiment some like that?? i mean , i put a pen on the rotatory and when it comes to engrave, did the job but the chuck vibrate like it cant handle super small thing but in tumblers or things with big circunference works fine , if you can help me pliss tell me tanks so much for this kind of videos i apreciate a lot i love u guys
Hey BC it sounds like your stepper motor is receiving either too much or too little power from your stepper driver. I'd try reducing the current by one level and then raising the current by one level to see if the shaking stops. Over and under driving your stepper will kill it much faster than regular wear and tear so that's something you'll want to get sorted out quickly if that's the case.
@@LaserEverything i see the whole playlist of ezcad and the ligthburn software , i copy you configuration , and put recomendation fabric configuration and the shaking dont stop , i opend the fiber laser to see the swtches an the swtch #5 and #8 are ON so , its 12800 , like yours but the switch #4 its off and the leyend on the stepper says if the switch #4 is off says "half" thaht mean i need to put 6400?, i dont know how to solve that :( i really apreciate your answer i really really really help me , im suscribed and i like all the videos , LE i love u, best regards from mexico
"half" applies to the current supplied not the steps per rotation. The first half of the switches control power current, 4 controls half or full current from the first switches. Then the last switches set the steps per rotation. They are separate. I believe you are supplying too much or too little current to your driver. Those are the first few switches before #4. Please see how much current your stepper motor needs and make sure the first set of switches match accordingly.
Alex, When I enable Rotary it seems to move my Frame off and not Centered, but when i un enable it then the frame goes back like it does when I do normal stuff it is centered, know why it causes that? so i cannot get a good frame on my cup as it goes off, just weird.
We're pretty sure this is a lightburn bug unfortunately, seen it a lot lately. Make sure you're on the most recent version and if it's still happening I'd post a bug report on their support forum or email them at support@lightburnsoftware.com
It's a bit hard to troubleshoot in comments here, but if you've followed the steps and are having trouble with the results, jump into one of our community forums and make a post so the team and community can chat through it and help. Links to our discord and Facebook group (and LMA) are in the description.
I've heard of this and I think it's a bug with LightBurn. Make sure you're on the most up to date version of the software and considering contacting support@lightburnsoftware.com for assistance with bug reporting.
Ok Im confused. Im watch LightBurn for Galvo Rotary Basics and your doing art work. I need the video which shows setting up the axis rotary(chuck that came with my monport 50w fiber laser). its not as simple as it was for my diode laser. easy instructions for rotations. Please direct me or help.
😅 Great Tutorial. Everything works beautifully with one exception - when I go to laser the laser starting it’s lasering about 1-2cm down the Y axis (down the curve of the cup) even though everything is centred like the line etc with the arrow keys. This obviously makes the laser quite weak and out of focus. I’ve tried searching for answers the only thing I can think of is to offset the rotary machine back a little bit, but then it might be hard to line up the line / artwork. Meh
i checked my dip switchs in 30w fiber steps are set at 12800, but my rotary does not spin smooth when testing it and running a image the rotary does not move at all any ideasi have asked your discord facebook and monport cant get a answer
Lightburn is fairly lightweight and compatible with windows/mac/linux. Being a laptop shouldn't be a problem (we use lightburn on laptops all the time), but you may want to confirm the min spec requirements on the Lightburn Software site to compare to the spec list of the one you ordered.
The lens size will limit the height of the object you're able to mark in one shot but not the circumference, the rotary can always turn further to get all the way around.
Actually Lightburns set up for rotary sucks. Draw a red line, your new work line, center the line in software, then center the line to your chuck. This is where the laser should fire, somewhere along this center line, your new work line. Now enable rotary and watch and see where that center line moves to. It will offset and this is where your laser will fire, not anywhere near the center line of the object. The shift will be lager the bigger the lens you use. This all assumes your laser was set up to hit anywhere near the center of your work area. For the rotary and setting to function properly the laser needs to fire near the center line of the object. For whatever reason Lightburn will shift the working center line away from the center of the galvo head. Ideally, and how it should work, is your center line passes through the lasers red dot, the center of your galvo head, you center the center line and laser dot on your rotary and lock it down. Now when you activate the rotary in the software the center work line shouldn't shift and all work is done off the center line. Depending on your lens you're better off activating the rotary in software then do your center line and rotary alignment. Your red laser dot will be off but the laser will fire on the center line of your work on the top of the object being engraved.
The reason the working center moves when enabling rotary as you described, is lightburn has the ability to shift the working axis for those who don’t have the ability to mount the rotary directly centered to the lens. This was added as a feature a few months after launch. The reason it moves further on larger lenses is because you have to set your output center in lightburn in the rotary prompt. It is set to a coordinate, so as you move up in lens size, that coordinate shifts further over due to where the origin is. If you have the ability to mount your rotary true center to your lens, then you can simply set your rotary output center to the center coordinate of the lens you are using. For that reason, we think it doesn’t suck ;) not everyone can mount the rotary exactly where it’s ideal.
Ok maybe sucks is a little harsh, because I do love Lightburn but it seems they make it overly complicated trying to encompass all kinds of lasers. But on galvo lasers this isn’t even really necessary and nowhere in your video do you explain this so others understand what’s going on. I’ve had more people not understand what’s going on and why their markings don’t come out as they should. A simple search of rotary problems will point this out. Maybe consider covering it in another video.
@hateca1 it’s on our list. Unfortunately this video was filmed early on in the LB release, and the rotary updates occurred months after filming and release of this content. That feature was added specifically because of odd workspace bolt down spacing issues some lasers have, it’s not always possible to bolt a rotary down exactly in the center of an axis, was not added with the intention of complicating things, was requested by the community based on feedback of the original implementation and complaints about ezcad2 lack of that function for users looking for something better.
the steps per rotation are controlled by the rotary driver wired into the system, not by the laser source itself. You can either confirm by opening up the case to the enclosure, and check the switches on the driver and mapping out what the steps are using the key on the side, or by testing common values until you get a full 360 degree rotation. The most common values we see are 5000, 6400, 12800, 25600, but could be different based on the switches and driver used in your specific laser.
Just messing around with some new settings. They worked pretty well. There's no one right way to do these kind of things :) In the end the vid is more to teach the method than the specific engraving settings as they'll be different for everyone
Hey Alex I used all of the same exact items you used for this video except I am on a 30W. Everything looked great but the graphic printed inverted ie the words were backwards. It also squished the graphic can you make any recommendation. Oh and a D80 rotary.
You need to click "Reverse Rotary Direction" in the rotary setup if the text is reversed.. Also, if you're doing a circular engraving, you'll need to scale up the image in one direction to make it "appear" more circular. The curvature of the object affects how the image looks. Laser Engraving 911 has a great video explaining this along with some guidance on determining values to correct for this.
MY QUESTION IS IF IM HAVING TO MANIPULATE THE CENTER THEN HOW DO I DO A TWO SIDED TUMBLER WITHOUT HAVING TO SET IT UP AGAIN? NORMALLY ON. MY CO2 ILL JUST PUT BOTH GRAPHICS ON MY TUMBLER TEMPLATE AND IT AUTO ROTATES TO THE BACK AND BEGINS THE ENGRAVE. SORRY FOR THE ALL CAPS LOL. I CANT TYPE AND LOOK AT THE SCREEN AND REALIZED IT WAS ALL CAPS TO LAZY TO RETYOE LOL
O.T. - Do any of you have a rotary whose stepper motor is free to turn a limitless number of times in either direction? I think it's too bad that most of the Chinese laser rotarys have limited the number of revolutions. I have no idea why it is so.
Unfortunately, Lightburn must have changed since the video was posted a year ago. I've done everything as stated, and my laser will not engrave with the rotary.
LOVE your content man, you really do some awesome stuff. This one, though, really frustrated me, but probably only because I'd watched your others first and lack the context of the 700,000 different fiber lasers there are out there (and what you're using in this video, I don't think you said). I'm using a 50W JPT, so a different machine than yours I'd suspect. I'm trying to wrap my head around why in other videos you stressed de-focusing by as much as 5.5mm, but that's not mentioned here. The frequency you used looked to be 80 in this video but the results shown versus the results I see are universes apart. I checked and re-checked and re-re-re-re-re-checked every frame of this video to make sure all of my settings, focus, etc, were all the same. The marks on the tumbler are just nasty looking. VERY apparently vertical lines no matter how I set my line spacing, and discolored sub-metal even after cleaning passes that work great on other stainless (though flat) stuff. I am doing X axis engraving, but I don't think that really matters as long as you orient things properly (and I have, the alignment and such isn't the issue at all). Am I just missing something wildly simple?
Drop some pics of your setup, digital workspace and results on the facebook group or discord server so we can take a closer look. Links in the description.
Cool video.. one point of note, I believe Switch 4 on the Leadshine Driver only applies to idle current.
I have been fighting with my rotary for years, till you just mentioned the dipswitch thing in the video ive had it backwards the whole time! THANK YOU
Glad it helped! Understanding stepper drivers makes working with rotary SO much easier! :)
what an excellent tutorial i was literally doing a tumbler within 5 minutes after watching this tutorial. I only had to adjust power down, i took 750 and 60% power on my Raycus 30W and it turned out the 500mm/s and 30% was better. First i used 20Khz, but now i am trying a sugar skull at 50kHz. let's see how that turns out, but thanks so much, your videos got me up an running within minutes!
That's amazing glad to hear it Dimitri! Good luck and have fun!
Thank you so much for this video. I was struggling with gaps in my design but you got me on the right track now. Really appreciate your channel.
SILVER/GOLD RING ENGRAVING. Thank you so much! I used these instructions to set up my rotary with my 50watt JPT fiber laser, I just used your instructions and everything worked like a charm! THANKS AGAIN!
This video is PURE gold. just ordered my OMTech 30W fiber laser and needed to figure out how to set up. This is amazing!! Thank You!!
hey i own a omtech 30 fiber too. how much steps per min do you set ?
Things I learned in setting up my Rotary 1) No matter how many times you pray to god, he will not help you align and level your cylinder. 2) Your rotary is not intimidated when you curse at it and swear you are going to throw it out a window
Dude, this is a freaking masterclass! THANK YOU!
Amazing video, learnt so much, bought many rotary but never used it as i didn't know how to set it up.Thanks, i will put this knowledge to test soon
I don't see anywhere to get the hatch image that you show in the video. Please explain how to get this part to show up. Thanks
Assuming you mean the hatch preview, it's the small icon that looks like a computer screen in the center top of the top toolbar.
@@LaserEverything that is it thanks
Perfect tutorial video for a very first rotary engraving. 10/10. Thanks a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
This is a great video and I was successfully able to make my first tumblers, thanks bud! One question I had was the red tool you used for measuring lense height, where can I get one of those?
Glad to hear it was helpful. I cut and made the focal stick myself after measuring the exact focal distance for each lens on my CO2. You can probably pick some up on Etsy if don't have a CO2 available.
Thank you so much for this very informative tutorials. I had my rotary chuck for almost 8 months now, but I was intimidated to set it up with my fiber laser. I finally have the courage to try it after this video. BTW, what is that red thingy that you are using to focus? Thanks.
Glad the content helped! :)
The red stick thing we are using there, we call it a focal stick. It's just a piece of acrylic basically thats cut to the length of focus for between the lens and material engrave surface. We use it almost like a feeler gauge to get things quickly into focus consistently, nothing fancy :)
Could just use a wood dowel with a piece of wood to make an end to touch the metal edges of the lens or similar cut down wood or acrylic. There's some alternatives the community make and sell on the Maker Remix Marketplace too
Hello i have same bjjcz board but my board serial number not ends with A letter. how can i unlock stepper feature. thanks.
It's not a software limitation, there are physically no hardware pins for an extension axis on your board. You'd have to replace it if you wanted that functionality.
@@LaserEverything thank you
your settings show a Q pulse. my LB does not seem to have this option??
In LightBurn device settings you can enable q-pulse - you only need that if you have a MOPA laser though.
I have a Piburn rotary. Will these instructions apply to it? Can you possibly make a setup video for that style of rotary? Thanks
From what I can see, you never made a video on the roller rotary. Do you plan on making one of those?
I followed your instructions, but my rotary will not make a smooth rotation. It jumps left and right and will not engrave my graphic.
I have this same issur
I am trying to engrave on something flat now and my lightburn software thinks that I am still using the rotary, how do I dissable this so it will engrave on flat surfaces again?
This is the one I've been waiting for!
Whoo!
I have a question do you ever wipe your lens down or clean it? I was told not to but after doing a bunch of yeti cups like 200 I’ve noticed I have a powder build up on any suggestions
I don't find I need to often but when I do I just use windex and a microfiber cloth. They aren't as sensitive as I once thought. Pretty thicc hunks of glass - just don't scrub on them.
Hey, I tried this and my images are coming out stretched. Any idea why?
Sounds like your steps per rotation maybe isn't set correctly. Double check that your steps per rotation matches that of your stepper driver.
@@LaserEverything okay, thank you!
I have the opposite problem. My image (test line) falls WAY short. I’ve double checked the steps per rotation and it’s set to exactly what the controller is set too. How does the controller determine what it needs to be? Could that be set wrong?
In the ezcad tumbler video, you defocused 5.5mm. Is that not needed anymore?
I have followed instructions exactly like in the video and my rotary chuck just keeps spinning and starts and one end it seems like it just not enought power. Can you please help me?
very frustrating when your lightburn for galvo doesn't look like my version of lightburn. can you confirm if your version 1.2.00 looks identical to lightburn 1.5.06? I have a clean install of lightburn with my new cloudray fiber laser and the options i see don't match yours.
Mine is running on the y-axis but on the opposite side of the laser machine, does this matter?
Nope, if it aint broke don't fix it :)
Is it possible for LightBurn to zap a design, then spin 180 to the backside of the cup to duplicate the design on the other side?
100% possible. A bit of work but can be done. Would make for a good episode - I'll add it to the list.
@@LaserEverything VERY much appreciated! This would be game changer for me. I presently use a 300mm lens and manually flip each cup for the job :D
I have a problem, when it is doing the work the rotator returns and continues with the work, that made my tumbler lose
It should be noted that I have all my configuration almost like the one in the video
We can't really get into it in the RUclips comments as it's not the best place for more intensive support threads but we do have a few options where you can get help. Either check out Discord Server or Facebook group - links in the description - or you can check out our new forum over at www.lasereverything.net/forum and I'm sure we can get you pointed in the right direction.
Great video. Which lens are you using?
So was this not defocused? What laser did u use?
I have this same rotary and essentially the same fiber galvo laser. Will it make a big difference if it isn’t bolted down? I travel with my laser and it wouldn’t be very convenient to have it bolted down the way I have my laser set up. Thanks! Very helpful video!
Also when I try to line an image with the rotary it misses more of the image than it cuts. How do I fix that?
Won't make a huge difference if you're doing one offs but if you are doing many tumblers and replacing the tumbler each time you can easily knock the rotary off center if it isn't bolted down which will mess up subsequent tumblers. Definitely recommend bolting it down if you can, otherwise swap tumblers verrrrry carefully.
Hi, is possible use pedal to start rotary? Pedal on rotary only open start window and I need use F2 to start marking... I'm doing a auto engrave machine, I need pedal signal start rotary mark
Try setting the I/O Start Marking to port 10 or 15.
@@LaserEverything my pedal is on port 14, if I do normal mark pedal work fine, only if I activate rotary pedal not work, only with F2 key
Strange. Is this for lightburn? May want to reach out to support@lightburnsoftware.com this seems like a little more of an in depth issue.
@@LaserEverything on rotary mode, I hit pedal, frame menu open, but if I hit pedal again not start mark, in normal mode works fine
i was wondering if mi rotatory chuck vibrates a lot on small things like a pen or screwdriver , but in tumblers works fine , did you experiment some like that?? i mean , i put a pen on the rotatory and when it comes to engrave, did the job but the chuck vibrate like it cant handle super small thing but in tumblers or things with big circunference works fine , if you can help me pliss tell me tanks so much for this kind of videos i apreciate a lot i love u guys
Hey BC it sounds like your stepper motor is receiving either too much or too little power from your stepper driver. I'd try reducing the current by one level and then raising the current by one level to see if the shaking stops. Over and under driving your stepper will kill it much faster than regular wear and tear so that's something you'll want to get sorted out quickly if that's the case.
@@LaserEverything i see the whole playlist of ezcad and the ligthburn software , i copy you configuration , and put recomendation fabric configuration and the shaking dont stop , i opend the fiber laser to see the swtches an the swtch #5 and #8 are ON so , its 12800 , like yours but the switch #4 its off and the leyend on the stepper says if the switch #4 is off says "half" thaht mean i need to put 6400?, i dont know how to solve that :( i really apreciate your answer i really really really help me , im suscribed and i like all the videos , LE i love u, best regards from mexico
"half" applies to the current supplied not the steps per rotation. The first half of the switches control power current, 4 controls half or full current from the first switches. Then the last switches set the steps per rotation. They are separate. I believe you are supplying too much or too little current to your driver. Those are the first few switches before #4. Please see how much current your stepper motor needs and make sure the first set of switches match accordingly.
Alex, When I enable Rotary it seems to move my Frame off and not Centered, but when i un enable it then the frame goes back like it does when I do normal stuff it is centered, know why it causes that? so i cannot get a good frame on my cup as it goes off, just weird.
We're pretty sure this is a lightburn bug unfortunately, seen it a lot lately. Make sure you're on the most recent version and if it's still happening I'd post a bug report on their support forum or email them at support@lightburnsoftware.com
Any ideas one how to get rid of lines in my engraving? Ive followed this video a bunch with no luck
It's a bit hard to troubleshoot in comments here, but if you've followed the steps and are having trouble with the results, jump into one of our community forums and make a post so the team and community can chat through it and help. Links to our discord and Facebook group (and LMA) are in the description.
Best tutorial I could find! Thank you very much for making this video ❤
Glad it was helpful!
it is a intergrate software? can work with Co2 laser engraver and fiber laser marker both?
As long as you have the license for DSP and Galvo then yes, you can use it for both.
When I am on 290mm perem my frame is centered but when I switch to 160 my center point moves center 80 to centered on 144
I've heard of this and I think it's a bug with LightBurn. Make sure you're on the most up to date version of the software and considering contacting support@lightburnsoftware.com for assistance with bug reporting.
Ok Im confused. Im watch LightBurn for Galvo Rotary Basics and your doing art work. I need the video which shows setting up the axis rotary(chuck that came with my monport 50w fiber laser).
its not as simple as it was for my diode laser. easy instructions for rotations.
Please direct me or help.
Very helpful thank you. I was a bit intimidated by the thought of the rotary function
Glad it helped!
😅 Great Tutorial. Everything works beautifully with one exception - when I go to laser the laser starting it’s lasering about 1-2cm down the Y axis (down the curve of the cup) even though everything is centred like the line etc with the arrow keys. This obviously makes the laser quite weak and out of focus. I’ve tried searching for answers the only thing I can think of is to offset the rotary machine back a little bit, but then it might be hard to line up the line / artwork. Meh
i checked my dip switchs in 30w fiber steps are set at 12800, but my rotary does not spin smooth when testing it and running a image the rotary does not move at all any ideasi have asked your discord facebook and monport cant get a answer
hey I just want to ask how can you define the center line for the object? or is it just a random position?
friend, do you remember what lens you used in this video?
Is there any way to have the rotary run multiple passes automatically? I have a few rings I really need to cut deep into.
Can I use my laptop I ordered one but just realized it's a laptop I got not a desk top
Lightburn is fairly lightweight and compatible with windows/mac/linux. Being a laptop shouldn't be a problem (we use lightburn on laptops all the time), but you may want to confirm the min spec requirements on the Lightburn Software site to compare to the spec list of the one you ordered.
OK so you said set to the not set to top most but my laser red light is pointing to the center.
Just confused as to why not center on tumbler ?
I tried this out but for some reason my marking is printing out backwards like if you were to look at it in a mirror.
Does lens size limit the ability to do a full 360 degree engraving depending on the circumference of the object?
The lens size will limit the height of the object you're able to mark in one shot but not the circumference, the rotary can always turn further to get all the way around.
We have a Mr Carve M1 galvo, but couldnt make LightBurn work with it. Any info to how would be much appreciated. cheers
Thanks!!! What lens were you using on this??
This was done with a 150mm lens on a 60w JPT M7
Actually Lightburns set up for rotary sucks. Draw a red line, your new work line, center the line in software, then center the line to your chuck. This is where the laser should fire, somewhere along this center line, your new work line. Now enable rotary and watch and see where that center line moves to. It will offset and this is where your laser will fire, not anywhere near the center line of the object. The shift will be lager the bigger the lens you use. This all assumes your laser was set up to hit anywhere near the center of your work area. For the rotary and setting to function properly the laser needs to fire near the center line of the object. For whatever reason Lightburn will shift the working center line away from the center of the galvo head. Ideally, and how it should work, is your center line passes through the lasers red dot, the center of your galvo head, you center the center line and laser dot on your rotary and lock it down. Now when you activate the rotary in the software the center work line shouldn't shift and all work is done off the center line. Depending on your lens you're better off activating the rotary in software then do your center line and rotary alignment. Your red laser dot will be off but the laser will fire on the center line of your work on the top of the object being engraved.
The reason the working center moves when enabling rotary as you described, is lightburn has the ability to shift the working axis for those who don’t have the ability to mount the rotary directly centered to the lens. This was added as a feature a few months after launch. The reason it moves further on larger lenses is because you have to set your output center in lightburn in the rotary prompt. It is set to a coordinate, so as you move up in lens size, that coordinate shifts further over due to where the origin is. If you have the ability to mount your rotary true center to your lens, then you can simply set your rotary output center to the center coordinate of the lens you are using. For that reason, we think it doesn’t suck ;) not everyone can mount the rotary exactly where it’s ideal.
Ok maybe sucks is a little harsh, because I do love Lightburn but it seems they make it overly complicated trying to encompass all kinds of lasers. But on galvo lasers this isn’t even really necessary and nowhere in your video do you explain this so others understand what’s going on. I’ve had more people not understand what’s going on and why their markings don’t come out as they should. A simple search of rotary problems will point this out. Maybe consider covering it in another video.
@hateca1 it’s on our list. Unfortunately this video was filmed early on in the LB release, and the rotary updates occurred months after filming and release of this content. That feature was added specifically because of odd workspace bolt down spacing issues some lasers have, it’s not always possible to bolt a rotary down exactly in the center of an axis, was not added with the intention of complicating things, was requested by the community based on feedback of the original implementation and complaints about ezcad2 lack of that function for users looking for something better.
Is there a downloadable library for lightburn like the one you have? I also have a 30w machine and would love to get a copy of your library.
masters.lasereverything.net
How can I know the steps per rotation on a 50w fiber laser?
the steps per rotation are controlled by the rotary driver wired into the system, not by the laser source itself. You can either confirm by opening up the case to the enclosure, and check the switches on the driver and mapping out what the steps are using the key on the side, or by testing common values until you get a full 360 degree rotation. The most common values we see are 5000, 6400, 12800, 25600, but could be different based on the switches and driver used in your specific laser.
Very thorough. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Does Lightburn suport a rotary table ? I use a rotary table for metal pens engraving.
With the same settings on my 50W JPT it makes a high pitch sound. Is it supposed to? On 90° scan it doesn’t make that sound
This helps a lot ty
Most welcome, glad it's helping!
why does aspect skew oblong when doing rotary
Probably a difference of steps per rotation between your stepper driver and lightburn software. You have to be absolutely sure they match.
THANKS
Thanks for watching!
Hi Alex how come you did not defocus with this one
Just messing around with some new settings. They worked pretty well. There's no one right way to do these kind of things :) In the end the vid is more to teach the method than the specific engraving settings as they'll be different for everyone
Hey Alex I used all of the same exact items you used for this video except I am on a 30W. Everything looked great but the graphic printed inverted ie the words were backwards. It also squished the graphic can you make any recommendation. Oh and a D80 rotary.
You need to click "Reverse Rotary Direction" in the rotary setup if the text is reversed.. Also, if you're doing a circular engraving, you'll need to scale up the image in one direction to make it "appear" more circular. The curvature of the object affects how the image looks. Laser Engraving 911 has a great video explaining this along with some guidance on determining values to correct for this.
MY QUESTION IS IF IM HAVING TO MANIPULATE THE CENTER THEN HOW DO I DO A TWO SIDED TUMBLER WITHOUT HAVING TO SET IT UP AGAIN? NORMALLY ON. MY CO2 ILL JUST PUT BOTH GRAPHICS ON MY TUMBLER TEMPLATE AND IT AUTO ROTATES TO THE BACK AND BEGINS THE ENGRAVE. SORRY FOR THE ALL CAPS LOL. I CANT TYPE AND LOOK AT THE SCREEN AND REALIZED IT WAS ALL CAPS TO LAZY TO RETYOE LOL
O.T. - Do any of you have a rotary whose stepper motor is free to turn a limitless number of times in either direction? I think it's too bad that most of the Chinese laser rotarys have limited the number of revolutions. I have no idea why it is so.
I haven't run into this, what rotary do you mean?
For a cnc machine to work, it has to know where it is. If you can't maintain a complete count of the steps for where it is, it isn't really feasible.
Thank you for the amazing video my man.
Perfect . Thankyou
Thanks for watching!
Bummer there's no option for a Z axis rotary (rotary tables, pen rotary, etc.) Looks like I'll need to stick with EZCrash until this is added.
Hopefully soon.
Thank you ☺️
Thanks for watching!
dude you saved me a lot of trouble - do you have a Patreon? I owe you a few beers!
Glad to hear it helped out! You can support the channel over at masters.lasereverything.net/ :)
I am now a happy subscriber of the Laser Master Academy
Whoo, thank you!
Thank you so much!!!!❣
Happy to share and hope you got some value from it! Thank you for watching :)
I’m so glad you did this tutorial I’ve now actually engraved a stainless steel tumbler that looks like what it should…. Thanks 😊👍
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Unfortunately, Lightburn must have changed since the video was posted a year ago. I've done everything as stated, and my laser will not engrave with the rotary.
Great video Alex and this helped me out for sure. Much appreciated
Glad to hear it!
LOVE your content man, you really do some awesome stuff. This one, though, really frustrated me, but probably only because I'd watched your others first and lack the context of the 700,000 different fiber lasers there are out there (and what you're using in this video, I don't think you said). I'm using a 50W JPT, so a different machine than yours I'd suspect. I'm trying to wrap my head around why in other videos you stressed de-focusing by as much as 5.5mm, but that's not mentioned here. The frequency you used looked to be 80 in this video but the results shown versus the results I see are universes apart. I checked and re-checked and re-re-re-re-re-checked every frame of this video to make sure all of my settings, focus, etc, were all the same. The marks on the tumbler are just nasty looking. VERY apparently vertical lines no matter how I set my line spacing, and discolored sub-metal even after cleaning passes that work great on other stainless (though flat) stuff. I am doing X axis engraving, but I don't think that really matters as long as you orient things properly (and I have, the alignment and such isn't the issue at all). Am I just missing something wildly simple?
Followed this video and my tumbler didn't move once
I'm getting vertical lines that's eating my lunch
Drop some pics of your setup, digital workspace and results on the facebook group or discord server so we can take a closer look. Links in the description.