I'm more or less a self taught machinist. I don't do anything very precision but make lots of non-critical stuff. I have learned a lot from your videos. What I really like is that you don't spend 20 minutes talking about useless stuff. You are right to the point and show how it's done. Thank you so much for sharing you vast knowledge of machining.
Hey Joe if you were close enough I'd fix your mill for you. You guys that take the time to share info like this are certainly earning some help from those of us who are able to help. Thanks for your efforts, many people are glad to see you share your experience. Thanks
Joe...Love your videos. I'm 38 years old with 10 years of machining experience. Unfortunately, I started backwards in the machining industry on the CNC mill and lathe machines. Only as recently as this year did I transition to manual machining as a conscious career choice. Essentially, I want to become a better machinist. The amount of respect and awe I have for those trailblazers who plied their craft on Bridgeport mills and Cincinnati lathes is immeasurable (not even calipers can measure it ;) ) Its one thing to push a bunch of buttons and rely on a programmer to plot out your work. From a business owner's standpoint, I'm sure CNC helps to increase productivity and reduce error. However, it's an entirely different level of production when you are forced to do the thinking for yourself and understand why you are implementing certain processes. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi Joe I am fitter and machinist by trade here in Australia and the tricks you have shown and the clear and understandable way present them are really great.l am 63 and have worked in large machine shops, toolrooms and general maintenance and have never seen some these great techniques in the other videos, Fantastic work Joe, keep it coming, kind regards Jay
It's nice to see someone sharing good tips, a lot of engineers like to keep these to themselves. I've seen over the years the skill level of young engineers drop dramatically due to cnc machining, it seems like all they're getting is just a green button apprenticeship. Keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks again, Joe. I always look forward to your videos and watch them first despite having about 50 subscriptions to other channels. Although being new to this, you are one of the best.
Here it is Feb 2023, and I am going back 5 yrs to refresh my ole mind as to a round part that needs a 11/64 pass through hole, but at a 2deg angle. Joe knowledge an teaching is better than looking up how-too's I'm my Machinists Handbook any day! Heck, he's still teaching us in 2023 and I owe 98% as a hobbyist from Joe. Keep on Keeping on friend! Bear.
Just started in machining 5 years ago when I met my best dude Randal. He's a tool and die maker for 40 odd years. He has taught me loads of things you could never learn in school! I have been watching your channel for a while now and trying your techniques in the shop. Some he already knows and has taught me such as this OP. And some I even taught him. I was real proud of that you can bet! We do not have any cnc machines. Everything is manual with DROs as our only electronics. Most everything we do is custom one off parts or repairs and sometimes small production runs of say up to 100 parts. Thanks for putting your time and knowledge out there for those who have this passion to make and create. Who would otherwise not have the opportunity to meet someone such as I have to help them learn. You are really giving back. Not only to the community but to the world! LOL! Hook 'em Horns! Formerly Temple/Belton, TX now Fort Wayne, IN.
More great info- who the hell puts a thumbs down on this?Evidently they have no idea just how valuable all this stuff is even if you already know a lot of it- small side comments that you make are often quite illuminating- thanks again Joe. Just brilliant
Just found your video channel few days ago, Joe. As an older machinist who is still turning all the dials by hand, I enjoy watching. My shop is very small, and I make mostly one-offs and short runs of parts for various customers. Love seeing you work on the manual machines, but enjoy some of the CNC vids, too. What's really nice is seeing someone who knows some of the older tricks I learned when I was young, working with the old heads in the trade. Thanks for the enjoyable banter, too.
I know this is a 4 year old video but I needed to make sure I'm on the right track with drilling and tapping some holes into a few round parts for a race bike I'm building. Yet again you sorted it Joe. I need to counterbore to recess the heads of some cap screws into the parts so this technique is just the job. Oh, and my Bridgeport head rattles like crazy too lol. Thanks again from the UK.
I think my Bridgeport was even louder. I rebuilt the top end last month. It's probably just a bushing repair. There's plastic bushings on the motor pulley ( on variable speed machines) and the front variable speed pulley. But on my machine nearly every bearing felt like it had sand in it as well, so I was glad I did the whole top end - just a couple hundred dollars in parts, I got a great understanding of how the machine works and the nearly silent running machine was the reward.
I also second Jame's recommendation. It could just be the plastic bushing the spindle drive pulley. I've heard that's a common source of noise in older machines.
I had to do this in 3/4 S/S nuts for a anti tamper wire. Orders were for 1,000. Came in from the side with a 3/16 4f center cut @ 850-900rpm then set up with the drill bit. Gota love an air vice!
im not a machinist but i have a mill and I have a very specific need to drill an angled hole. Its for gas port in a virgin rifle barrel. This video was very helpful Thanks!
Thanks, Joe. I’m not a machinist, just a wannabe. I tried this on my Bridgeport mill (old round ram with no nod feature). It worked perfectly! Thanks for teaching. Much appreciated.
Mr. Joe Pieczynski, many thanks for sharing your knowledge through his instructive and well explained videos. Besides dedication for the quality of its editions. Again, Thank you very much and greetings from Argentina.
OK well done. This is one of the first techniques I learned as an apprentice journeyman 45 years ago. Make a flat before you drill. In my case it was clearance drilling and counter boring for 4-40 socket head screws on the edge of .75 diameter copper bar clamp. 3/16 dia. end mill (as flat and c'bore), center drill, 1/8 clearance drill. de-burr, done. Point, you can use non-center cutting end mill if you can enter the workpiece from the side, X or Y axis rather than Z axis as shown. in the video'
Thanks Joe. I'm glad that I subscribed to your channel. As a newby I've learned quite a few things from you. I'm glad that you are willing to share your knowledge with me.
Hey Joe. Looks like you got things working REALLY well with your new video setup. Well focused and steady, good lighting and good sound. Congrats. Good info on this video. Thanks
That mill sounds as noisy as mine, a cheap Chinese ZX50CA, with geared head. I have tried adding thicker transmission oil but one of these days I will have to take it apart and check the bearings and gear meshing if I want to keep my hearing! Love the videos and have learned alot from them, keep up the good work.
I so enjoy your videos...I am a retired Aircraft Propeller Blade Technition...I have worked on many different types of Aircraft Propeller, from C130 and P3 Orion, Cessna Aircraft, Pipers, and crop dusters, and the list goes on....I Am fascinated by Your precision and downright incredible ability to make things work...The knocking sound in Your milling machine, is like a set screw has backed out of a rotating shaft and is hitting a stationary metal structure..? I am considering purchasing a small (used) lathe, and making some fun things...there is a video of a gyroscope and a few other things I am looking at also....Henry...keep up the wonderful Work You are doing...
videos get better and better. Great detail. i really like how u focus on oddball things or things that arent usually talked about but happen all the time in the shop. Maybe you can do a video on using endmills in the lathe in the future? Maybe knurling or reaming? I really liked the steady rest video. I always seem to have problems with chatter / endmill cutting way oversize. Sadly, our shop doesnt have the proper tooling for the job a lot of the time and I have to improvise. Thanks for the videos Joe Pi
I just have to thank you again I never thought of making a flat spot or using an end mill, I always used a guide, other part with hole it or I just didn't try to drill at any angle but a 90 degree ! If you every need another Job Please start teaching young people !! Your easy going,simply straight forward way of presenting things is just what this generation badly needs as most seam still lost at 20 - 30 yrs and older ! Your the Solution!
Your absolutely correct, spare the rod spoil the Child-sort of! I never spanked my two Daughters - just cut their privileges & taught them right from wrong, tried to raise them right & show them by example what it's like when 2 people Really Love each as my wife & I do!
Just to go a little further to accommodate an odd sized hole you can trig out in infinite number of offsets from the hole center in order to achieve a near perfect match to the drill size required (if necessary). 3 steps per quadrant will usually suffice if the end mill is close to the desired hole diameter. Thanks, by the way, for giving me an outlet for what has become useless information now that I have retired.
What we need is a sort of Peace Corp where retired guys can fan out and share their tons of information with younger guys wanting to learn. It is a shame the amount of hard won information that is lost every day in the world as guys exit the work force, no matter how well deserved.
I don't think it will ever be useless information. We hobbyist are always in need of tips from you old masters. Any tip you guys can give is priceless information to pass on to the next generation of machinist.
I will support Martin Vernon's comment concerning the spline and spline socket rattling. Probably caused by a slightly bent spline shaft. This will cause the knocking your mill is making. Good video and well explained.
Joe Pie, thanks for sharing. That technique convinced me. Keep making these vids please. I refer friends to your vids because you demonstrate and explain well.
Super useful. I have done the mill cutter in a Jacob's chuck and had it pull into the job and ruin it, causing me to invest in an er collet which has been a blessing.
Everyone is different, but I am not a fan of endmills in chucks. I do it once in a while if I am counterboring aluminum and there is already a hole, but otherwise, you are not going to catch me finishing an 80% lower on a drill press.
Great video, I like the tip, Id probably try to finish the whole with the end mill, that should be interesting. As far as the noise goes, I got the same one, and I finally fixed it! Ear plugs...take care and keep making vids!
Great tip!! I have used the end mill trick. But using the knee to control the feed is priceless.. P.S. I had a drill press making same noise, ended up the set screw on motor pulley backed off allowing it to rattle on the key way...
Another Great video Joe- the head on my mill sounds similar. When you find out what it is - let us all know with a repair video. That's exactly how I do angled holes or holes on round stock - you need a flat.
Joe, I use this trick often but I would make sure and give a caution. Not everyone out there has a Milling Machine and my try this on a Drill Press. It's not a good idea to do this in a Drill Press as the Endmill will often walk, reach the edge of the hole, dig in and break off. You used a Center Drill after the Endmill as one of your steps. For Drill Press users, try the same thing except skip the Endmill and use the Center Drill as step one. You can go deep enough with the Center Drill if you use frequent Peck cycles to let the captured chips fly out of the short Flutes on a Center Drill. If you go deep enough, you will have a full circle to start your cut with a Drill and there is the starter hole created by the Center Drill to keep everything centered up.
You will have to be very patient. The centerdrill 2 flute design will have a greater tendency to walk than an end mill. Its the angled tip of the centerdrill and angled surface that will increase deflection potential.
I’m a new subscriber and very new at machining. A hobby in my retirement. Love your way of thinking and vast experience. I own a very low end King mill, belt drive with stacked pully,s. On one occasion while changing speeds, I encountered the exact same rattle. Turned out I over tightened the belts. After the tension on the belts was adjusted, the rattle was gone. Who know, maybe something to check. Thanks for the videos.
If your mill has one of those sliding levers in the front of the head up top for back gear, sometimes the bushing that rides in the inclined slot can wear down and cause the gears to rub inside. If you have that type, check that bushing.
Joe Pieczynsk: This is one of those, "I thought everyone knew that" subjects. However, there might be some that will experience an 'ah ha' moment and benefit from this video. I'm not so proud that I can't admit I've learned or have had my memory jogged from some of your videos.
...Nice to be the first... Hi Joe - thanks for this video. I knew to make a starting pocket for this holes, but to use the quill for a better "feeling" is new to me. Thanks again and keep going on. Tom
Joe I would have done it the same way you did.... With one variation. Even if I were using a face cutting end Mill, I would plunge cut only down to the point of where I had a full diameter flat..... And then I would have walked it out to the side in order to ensure that the surface the center drill would encounter would be dead flat. I'm used to working to aircraft tolerances and I would have to minimize any chance at the center drill would walk even a couple of thousands off center if it encountered a convex surface left by a simple end Mill plunge. Also, to minimize the drill walking as it broke through the backside I might have pre-drilled a 1/8" pilot hole all the way through, and I would make sure that the final sized drill would have a split point..... So that the linear pressure on the drill would be reduced. This would help to minimize it from walking as it broke through the other side. All in all, you've made a great video here!
Nice tip.....the best message to me was "take your time" "take your time".....as a young man working as a mechanic it was beat into me beat flat rate.....I am always going TOO FAST.......
Useful tip for drilling on an offset. I to don't like the idea of using an end mill in a drill chuck as I've been told the vibration set up in the cutting process is enough to work the chuck or the end mill loose. I've never tried this but can always remember my instructor tell us about this. I had a bench drill given to me a long time ago - it too sounded like your machine, when I looked for where the noise was coming from I found the belt had been repaired with a metal link joining the belt. The belt had been repaired with a twist in it. I ordered a new belt but in the meantime I flipped out the link and replaced it with out the twist. The machine ran quietly without the vibration.
Yes, I tried it Outlooker 251 - despite reading a warning about not using an end mill in a drill chuck. I had just started to learn engineering and had a brand new small drill/mill. I had a very small flat to put in the side of a piece of drill rod (for a set screw engagement). I would use a very SMALL end mill, so what would be the harm - I reasoned. I could have easily mounted my end mill chuck - but I had been drilling holes you understand. Anyway, I had hardly touched the work when the chuck let go of its arbor.... There is an old saying that says that experience is what you get when you get noting else out of an endeavor. I have a little round gouge on the top of my mill vice's front jaw (where the end mill hit it) that I call my "experience mark"! Every time I see it I remind myself to listen when experience speaks. Joe has the experience and that is why I have subscribed. Thanks Joe!
All good stuff Joe ....... I guess a quill helps ! Be great to see a video of your mill head tear down and refit .....I'm sure there are Kent of noisy mill heads out there. All the best Mat
Good sir let me say first you are bible of knowledge,keep doing videos like that-little tips and tricks and some common knowledge maybe not so avalable to everyone ! my question to you is gow do you drill a 90° hole in a pipe without a dividing table ?I cant go trough with a drill since i will encounter second curve,if i move it to do it from top side it wont be 90° anymore,and my starting drill or endmill are not long enough to hit the second wall of pipe to make flat spot.Any idea?
Hey Joe, I just caught this video today; figure you've got that noisy milling machine sorted by now... but if you've got any other maintenance/repairs needed, I'm moving to central Texas this year and would be happy to give a hand in appreciation for the fine content you keep putting up
Good Tip, thats how I do it. Can I request a video? One area I am very uneducated in is the naming of different metals. I often hear people on RUclips refer to '4140' or '316' or in this video '17.4'. Can you give any explanation as to the where the numbers are derived from and how you would go about choosing what grade to use for a component. At home I just use what ever I can get hold of and at work we don't use any common materials so ive never had to study it. Cheers
I'll look into this one Crispin. Good suggestion. Coming from a medical background, I can say the 17-x series stainless steels are heat treatable. I was surprised at that one. 17-4 cuts great and heat treats easily. Ends up at around 44C rockwell.
Hello Joe and Ro Efa, One final thing.A pair of stethoscopes as used by car mechanics will quickly and accurately locate exactly where your machine noises are coming from without a lot if stripping and examining. Brilliant things and very cheap too.
Back in the day, we would stick the tip of a screwdriver against the suspect surface and grip the handle with our thumb over the end. Press that thumb knuckle against your ear and you have an instant stethoscope. Try it.
I suppose saying 'a PAIR of stethoscopes' has blown my cover as a doctor. Your videos are very educating for the experienced as well as the novice. They are presented so professionally they remind me of my time at night school. Great stuff. I think the screwdriver stethoscope was phased out in the seventies when we had long hair ;-).
Hi Joe, Great video as usual. Just one comment...... Since I stopped using centre drills for anything other than drilling holes in which I'm going to use a centre, I've never had the tip break on one. Spotting drills all the way!
Thank´s for sharing your experience. I´m a beginer chinistma , well almost, just 5 years in the trade. that noise on your mill may be the bearings. on another subject, I see you´ve been in Nayarit Mexico at "el Gordo" , I live in Mexico at a 4 hour drive to Nayarit. Saludos desde Mexico
I think if you turn on Closed captions starts @ 3:10. you will find its not rattling. It is "MUSIC". ahh the sweet sounds of a drill press! just sayin :)
Hi Joe. Please excuse the dumb question, but is there any reason why you couldn't do the whole job with the end-mill, and save on the tool changes? I would have thought that it would break through cleaner on the back side than the drill bit would.
There is no reason you couldn't finish the hole with an end mill, but plunging an end mill is historically not known to give a precision hole if its the first tool to cut. Following a drilled hole with an end mill to true up the hole is not unusual.
Hi Joe, great vid as per usual. I'm not trained as, nor do I work as a machinist. I call myself a "machinist as required", haha! I'm wondering how you calculate positioning the end mill so the center of the hole is where you want it. I can figure it out on the round bar by touching of on the side with an edge finder and moving to the correct spot (hopefully called out on the drawing). But how is it done on a flat piece set at an angle if the hole has to be positioned to line up with a mating hole? As the angle changes this mystery calculation also changes. Hope that is clear as mud!
Thanx Joe, I knew you'd know how. I just got a new pair of glasses today. Your ear pieces look really short to me, what's up with that? Are they comfortable that way?
Joe, I don't know where to ask this, so here goes :- I am being asked at work to machine an awkward part. It is an aluminium CNC machined car gearchange paddle from a steering wheel, and it needs a tiny bit of cosmetic machining to change a - sign to a + sign. They want me to stick it onto a flat surface with body filler to hold it in the correct attitude and then clamp the flat surface to the bed. Then manually machine the alteration on our shop Bridgeport clone. Is this normal practice? Sounds like a shortcut to get out of a hole to me rather than machine another one. Would you describe this as standard practice, as I have not seen this clamping system mentioned anywhere!
You would be surprised at how many different ways I have seen and personally held a part. Epoxy in a baggie, a sand bag....you name it. As long as the cutter load doesn't out shine the setup, it should work. Id personally let the body filler harden up first, and probably suggest a perimeter ring of some sort so it doesn't crack when you clamp down the paddle. Take small cuts and good luck.
Roger Crier- Jewelers, Gunsmiths, Bladesmiths and Engravers of these small, random-shaped items grip them in their vices using a product called Thermo Loc. According to the MSDS, Thermo Loc is a blend of proprietary thermoplastics distributed by Glendo Corp and available for sale on their website www.grs.com. Thermo Loc is produced in round sticks approximately 0.25" in diameter & approximately 8" in length. It softens to a pliable "putty when heated in a microwave oven to between 140-158*F. Once shaped around the object, the margins of the Thermo Loc and be fashioned to create edges that can be firmly gripped in a vise after the thermoplastic cools to a hardened state at room temp. This should offer you a very flexible solution for work-holding on small/irregular parts that need to be machined. Cheers- John Visalia, CA
Joe, had the same noise on a Mitoyo knee mill last week. It was the bearings on the motor side of the head, on the spring side of the variable pulley. They develop that odd noise from bad wear or completely dry of oil. The Mitoyo mill had oil spouts I soaked with medium weight oil and ran the machine without load for roughly 30 minutes. Turns out all spouts were bone dry which made the bearings noisy. I suggest a heavier weight oil in your oil spouts followed by running the machine at varying rpms without load (goes without saying check the health of the belt as a flat spot makes the same noise). Let me know if it work.
What would you do if you had an odd size hole like say 17/64" or 9/32" for which you don't have an end mill of the same diameter? Would you be forced to use a 5/16" end mill to do the 'footprint' and then switch to the desired drill bit or is there another technique? BTW I really enjoy that you use manual machines to do your videos instead of relying on NC/CNC machines. Knowing how to use manual machinery provides a solid foundation for a person to move to computerized machines. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
love your videos I'm new at metal working I went out and I bought an old Logan lathe and rebuilt it new. I have a Harding lathe that's an absolutely beautiful day and I have a mill and some welding equipment. I just built a really nice bar roller that works really nice I'm so happy the day. It's funny that I actually just instinctively started doing this meth than with an anvil it makes sense. that's so that makes me happy that I figured out something myself that's actually a real solution
Yep, that's how I do it. I was told way back that you never use an end mill in a chuck. That it is bad for the chuck. Though I have done this in aluminum when only making a flat big enough to get a center drill on. (by the way, I am looking to get out of production lathe work. Need a hand out there in Texas Joe) ; )
Hi Cap'n Thanks for another nice practical problem solving Video. Had done this before, but U explain and do it lots better Feeding with the Knee. Will give Your method a shot in future. Would have been nice to see how U would centred on the Cylindrical without the DRO, which most of us don't have. I know U would say use the Centre Finders and the Mill Dials, but is there another method ??? Just thinking out aloud. Don't mind me. Oh well, we have the CDC Tool for that. All the best aRM
You can use a dial indicator to sweep either the body of your cylinder, or the surfaces if you have a stop to use. Just be sure to pickup the high spots both vertically and radially on each side. Easy.
Interesting technique Joe. How would you suggest actually locating the hole in the angled piece of stock? With the round stock an edge finder can be used and the position of the hole set using the DRO. Say you wanted to drill a hole 2" in from the end of the angled stock, how would you proceed?
Hey Joe, thanks. I just have a Grizzly mini mill and cant raise up the table, I have a ER 20 setup and can use the fine adjustment instead of drill press style operation, any tips or just peck at it? Don't know about your mill but sounds like some excess backlash of gears in drive, and it sounds like $$$, good luck. God Bless Ya, Dave
great video Joe could this technique be used on a drill press and if so how would we go about doing it scene you can't put a end mill in a drill chuck thanks for sharing your knowledge
raymond woodring. if you have the means you could make an end mill holder/collet. basically a sleeve made out of something like mild steel so the hardened chuck jaws can grab it. use a set screw to secure the end mill. but remember, a drill press uses a taper to secure the chuck, side pressure like you will get in this operation will likely cause it to come apart at speed.
I wish I could suggest an alternate method, but drill chucks on drill presses weren't designed for end mill loads. It may work for you if you creep down to depth by small adjustments on your quill adjustment nut. I am going to guess it will jump around quite a bit. You won't know unless you try it, but its really not good for the machine.
Or, redefine your end mill as a flat ended drill and carry on regardless. Loads are axial, so a drill chuck will work just fine, it is any side thrust that is the big NO-NO for drill chucks, not only for holding problems but also you tend to loosen Morse tapers. edit I just read some more comment/replies and see you have mention tapers.
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm more or less a self taught machinist. I don't do anything very precision but make lots of non-critical stuff. I have learned a lot from your videos. What I really like is that you don't spend 20 minutes talking about useless stuff. You are right to the point and show how it's done. Thank you so much for sharing you vast knowledge of machining.
Thank you.
Hey Joe if you were close enough I'd fix your mill for you. You guys that take the time to share info like this are certainly earning some help from those of us who are able to help. Thanks for your efforts, many people are glad to see you share your experience. Thanks
I finally tore the head down last week. I'll post a video of the fix.
Joe...Love your videos. I'm 38 years old with 10 years of machining experience. Unfortunately, I started backwards in the machining industry on the CNC mill and lathe machines. Only as recently as this year did I transition to manual machining as a conscious career choice. Essentially, I want to become a better machinist.
The amount of respect and awe I have for those trailblazers who plied their craft on Bridgeport mills and Cincinnati lathes is immeasurable (not even calipers can measure it ;) )
Its one thing to push a bunch of buttons and rely on a programmer to plot out your work. From a business owner's standpoint, I'm sure CNC helps to increase productivity and reduce error. However, it's an entirely different level of production when you are forced to do the thinking for yourself and understand why you are implementing certain processes. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi Joe
I am fitter and machinist by trade here in Australia and the tricks you have shown and the clear and understandable way present them are really great.l am 63 and have worked in large machine shops, toolrooms and general maintenance and have never seen some these great techniques in the other videos, Fantastic work Joe, keep it coming, kind regards Jay
It's nice to see someone sharing good tips, a lot of engineers like to keep these to themselves.
I've seen over the years the skill level of young engineers drop dramatically due to cnc machining, it seems like all they're getting is just a green button apprenticeship.
Keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks again, Joe. I always look forward to your videos and watch them first despite having about 50 subscriptions to other channels. Although being new to this, you are one of the best.
Thank you very much. I appreciate the compliment.
Here it is Feb 2023, and I am going back 5 yrs to refresh my ole mind as to a round part that needs a 11/64 pass through hole, but at a 2deg angle. Joe knowledge an teaching is better than looking up how-too's I'm my Machinists Handbook any day! Heck, he's still teaching us in 2023 and I owe 98% as a hobbyist from Joe. Keep on Keeping on friend! Bear.
Thanks for stopping by Bear.
Thanks Joe as an old frustrated hobby machinist it is awesome to have somebody of your caliber give up the tidbits of a lifetime in the industry
Just started in machining 5 years ago when I met my best dude Randal. He's a tool and die maker for 40 odd years. He has taught me loads of things you could never learn in school! I have been watching your channel for a while now and trying your techniques in the shop. Some he already knows and has taught me such as this OP. And some I even taught him. I was real proud of that you can bet! We do not have any cnc machines. Everything is manual with DROs as our only electronics. Most everything we do is custom one off parts or repairs and sometimes small production runs of say up to 100 parts. Thanks for putting your time and knowledge out there for those who have this passion to make and create. Who would otherwise not have the opportunity to meet someone such as I have to help them learn. You are really giving back. Not only to the community but to the world! LOL! Hook 'em Horns! Formerly Temple/Belton, TX now Fort Wayne, IN.
Some day you will be that dude. Learn all you can, while you can, then pass it on. Thanks for the comment.
More great info- who the hell puts a thumbs down on this?Evidently they have no idea just how valuable all this stuff is even if you already know a lot of it- small side comments that you make are often quite illuminating- thanks again Joe. Just brilliant
Over 5 years after you posted this but want to say thank you for the lessons and I always learn something from your videos.
Glad to help
Thanks Joe, every time I watch you I learn something good, thank you!
Just found your video channel few days ago, Joe. As an older machinist who is still turning all the dials by hand, I enjoy watching. My shop is very small, and I make mostly one-offs and short runs of parts for various customers. Love seeing you work on the manual machines, but enjoy some of the CNC vids, too.
What's really nice is seeing someone who knows some of the older tricks I learned when I was young, working with the old heads in the trade.
Thanks for the enjoyable banter, too.
Thanks for watching.
I know this is a 4 year old video but I needed to make sure I'm on the right track with drilling and tapping some holes into a few round parts for a race bike I'm building. Yet again you sorted it Joe. I need to counterbore to recess the heads of some cap screws into the parts so this technique is just the job.
Oh, and my Bridgeport head rattles like crazy too lol.
Thanks again from the UK.
I think my Bridgeport was even louder. I rebuilt the top end last month. It's probably just a bushing repair. There's plastic bushings on the motor pulley ( on variable speed machines) and the front variable speed pulley. But on my machine nearly every bearing felt like it had sand in it as well, so I was glad I did the whole top end - just a couple hundred dollars in parts, I got a great understanding of how the machine works and the nearly silent running machine was the reward.
Time is my enemy. I'd love to do that. That machine hasn't been quiet for some time.
I also second Jame's recommendation. It could just be the plastic bushing the spindle drive pulley. I've heard that's a common source of noise in older machines.
It is, but getting the motor off is a BITCH
I had to do this in 3/4 S/S nuts for a anti tamper wire. Orders were for 1,000. Came in from the side with a 3/16 4f center cut @ 850-900rpm then set up with the drill bit. Gota love an air vice!
im not a machinist but i have a mill and I have a very specific need to drill an angled hole. Its for gas port in a virgin rifle barrel. This video was very helpful Thanks!
Alfred Clemency make sure you take deburring into consideration.
Thanks, Joe. I’m not a machinist, just a wannabe. I tried this on my Bridgeport mill (old round ram with no nod feature). It worked perfectly! Thanks for teaching. Much appreciated.
that's all well when you are in the shop ! how would you do the some on a job in situ
Mr. Joe Pieczynski, many thanks for sharing your knowledge through his instructive and well explained videos. Besides dedication for the quality of its editions.
Again, Thank you very much and greetings from Argentina.
Thanks for your comment and support.
OK well done. This is one of the first techniques I learned as an apprentice journeyman 45 years ago. Make a flat before you drill. In my case it was clearance drilling and counter boring for 4-40 socket head screws on the edge of .75 diameter copper bar clamp. 3/16 dia. end mill (as flat and c'bore), center drill, 1/8 clearance drill. de-burr, done. Point, you can use non-center cutting end mill if you can enter the workpiece from the side, X or Y axis rather than Z axis as shown. in the video'
Thanks Joe. I'm glad that I subscribed to your channel. As a newby I've learned quite a few things from you. I'm glad that you are willing to share your knowledge with me.
I had many quality guys help me along the way. Just paying it back.
Hey Joe. Looks like you got things working REALLY well with your new video setup. Well focused and steady, good lighting and good sound. Congrats. Good info on this video. Thanks
Thanks. I'm figuring it out slowly.
This was good lesson for me. Thank you and greetings from Poland.
That mill sounds as noisy as mine, a cheap Chinese ZX50CA, with geared head. I have tried adding thicker transmission oil but one of these days I will have to take it apart and check the bearings and gear meshing if I want to keep my hearing! Love the videos and have learned alot from them, keep up the good work.
Thank you
I so enjoy your videos...I am a retired Aircraft Propeller Blade Technition...I have worked on many different types of Aircraft Propeller, from C130 and P3 Orion, Cessna Aircraft, Pipers, and crop dusters, and the list goes on....I Am fascinated by Your precision and downright incredible ability to make things work...The knocking sound in Your milling machine, is like a set screw has backed out of a rotating shaft and is hitting a stationary metal structure..? I am considering purchasing a small (used) lathe, and making some fun things...there is a video of a gyroscope and a few other things I am looking at also....Henry...keep up the wonderful Work You are doing...
videos get better and better. Great detail. i really like how u focus on oddball things or things that arent usually talked about but happen all the time in the shop. Maybe you can do a video on using endmills in the lathe in the future? Maybe knurling or reaming? I really liked the steady rest video. I always seem to have problems with chatter / endmill cutting way oversize. Sadly, our shop doesnt have the proper tooling for the job a lot of the time and I have to improvise.
Thanks for the videos Joe Pi
I just have to thank you again I never thought of making a flat spot or using an end mill,
I always used a guide, other part with hole it or I just didn't try to drill at any angle but a
90 degree ! If you every need another Job Please start teaching young people !!
Your easy going,simply straight forward way of presenting things is just what this
generation badly needs as most seam still lost at 20 - 30 yrs and older ! Your the Solution!
IgotHeliFever it's not the generations fault it's their parents. It's the generation that this generation had their examples set by
Your absolutely correct, spare the rod spoil the Child-sort of! I never
spanked my two Daughters - just cut their privileges & taught them
right from wrong, tried to raise them right & show them by example
what it's like when 2 people Really Love each as my wife & I do!
Just to go a little further to accommodate an odd sized hole you can trig out in infinite number of offsets from the hole center in order to achieve a near perfect match to the drill size required (if necessary). 3 steps per quadrant will usually suffice if the end mill is close to the desired hole diameter. Thanks, by the way, for giving me an outlet for what has become useless information now that I have retired.
What we need is a sort of Peace Corp where retired guys can fan out and share their tons of information with younger guys wanting to learn. It is a shame the amount of hard won information that is lost every day in the world as guys exit the work force, no matter how well deserved.
I don't think it will ever be useless information. We hobbyist are always in need of tips from you old masters. Any tip you guys can give is priceless information to pass on to the next generation of machinist.
I will support Martin Vernon's comment concerning the spline and spline socket rattling. Probably caused by a slightly bent spline shaft. This will cause the knocking your mill is making. Good video and well explained.
Joe Pie, thanks for sharing. That technique convinced me. Keep making these vids please. I refer friends to your vids because you demonstrate and explain well.
Thank you.
Hello Joe,
I have enjoyed all of your videos and learned a lot from them too. You also have a good presentational style. Keep 'em coming.
Ian.
Super useful. I have done the mill cutter in a Jacob's chuck and had it pull into the job and ruin it, causing me to invest in an er collet which has been a blessing.
Everyone is different, but I am not a fan of endmills in chucks. I do it once in a while if I am counterboring aluminum and there is already a hole, but otherwise, you are not going to catch me finishing an 80% lower on a drill press.
Joe, Thanks for the video, another new tool in the box. I think my mill is a sister to yours... she's a rattler too! :) Take Care
Your drill chatters less than my wife, so that's a blessing to hear.
Great tip (using an end mill) for drilling on a slanted piece, Joe. I never would've thought of that. Thank you!
Great video, I like the tip, Id probably try to finish the whole with the end mill, that should be interesting. As far as the noise goes, I got the same one, and I finally fixed it! Ear plugs...take care and keep making vids!
The auto-generated closed captions referred to the mill rattle as 1) Music, 2) Applause
Nice video, exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!
Great tip!! I have used the end mill trick. But using the knee to control the feed is priceless.. P.S. I had a drill press making same noise, ended up the set screw on motor pulley backed off allowing it to rattle on the key way...
Another Great video Joe- the head on my mill sounds similar. When you find out what it is - let us all know with a repair video. That's exactly how I do angled holes or holes on round stock - you need a flat.
Joe, I use this trick often but I would make sure and give a caution. Not everyone out there has a Milling Machine and my try this on a Drill Press. It's not a good idea to do this in a Drill Press as the Endmill will often walk, reach the edge of the hole, dig in and break off. You used a Center Drill after the Endmill as one of your steps. For Drill Press users, try the same thing except skip the Endmill and use the Center Drill as step one. You can go deep enough with the Center Drill if you use frequent Peck cycles to let the captured chips fly out of the short Flutes on a Center Drill. If you go deep enough, you will have a full circle to start your cut with a Drill and there is the starter hole created by the Center Drill to keep everything centered up.
You will have to be very patient. The centerdrill 2 flute design will have a greater tendency to walk than an end mill. Its the angled tip of the centerdrill and angled surface that will increase deflection potential.
Thanks again Joe. This helped out greatly with some Sten gun builds and tube holes that are required.
I’m a new subscriber and very new at machining. A hobby in my retirement. Love your way of thinking and vast experience. I own a very low end King mill, belt drive with stacked pully,s. On one occasion while changing speeds, I encountered the exact same rattle. Turned out I over tightened the belts. After the tension on the belts was adjusted, the rattle was gone. Who know, maybe something to check. Thanks for the videos.
If your mill has one of those sliding levers in the front of the head up top for back gear, sometimes the bushing that rides in the inclined slot can wear down and cause the gears to rub inside. If you have that type, check that bushing.
Good stuff Joe! Congratulations on passing 10k subs.
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin. I am flattered by the support. I enjoy the contact with the world. Pretty cool.
Joe Pieczynsk: This is one of those, "I thought everyone knew that" subjects. However, there might be some that will experience an 'ah ha' moment and benefit from this video. I'm not so proud that I can't admit I've learned or have had my memory jogged from some of your videos.
Hey Joe, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge! thanks Mike
I like the tip that you made for bringing your work up to the End Mill to eliminate the chattering, great idea, thanks for sharing
It works very well. The quill bounce is almost entirely eliminated.
Thank you Joe, another clever solution to a problem often encountered!
I just got my grizzly 16x31 combo last week setting up and truing up this week love your videos learning a lot from your videos thanks
What a pleasure to watch this. Good job!
Thank you.
Simple well explained solutions, great channel, thanks Joe ;-)
...Nice to be the first...
Hi Joe - thanks for this video. I knew to make a starting pocket for this holes, but to use the quill for a better "feeling" is new to me.
Thanks again and keep going on.
Tom
Will do. Thanks.
Joe I would have done it the same way you did.... With one variation. Even if I were using a face cutting end Mill, I would plunge cut only down to the point of where I had a full diameter flat..... And then I would have walked it out to the side in order to ensure that the surface the center drill would encounter would be dead flat. I'm used to working to aircraft tolerances and I would have to minimize any chance at the center drill would walk even a couple of thousands off center if it encountered a convex surface left by a simple end Mill plunge.
Also, to minimize the drill walking as it broke through the backside I might have pre-drilled a 1/8" pilot hole all the way through, and I would make sure that the final sized drill would have a split point..... So that the linear pressure on the drill would be reduced. This would help to minimize it from walking as it broke through the other side.
All in all, you've made a great video here!
Thank You for taking the time to teach .
Nice tip.....the best message to me was "take your time" "take your time".....as a young man working as a mechanic it was beat into me beat flat rate.....I am always going TOO FAST.......
Do it nice, or do it twice. The way of the universe. Good to hear from you Chuck.
Useful tip for drilling on an offset. I to don't like the idea of using an end mill in a drill chuck as I've been told the vibration set up in the cutting process is enough to work the chuck or the end mill loose. I've never tried this but can always remember my instructor tell us about this. I had a bench drill given to me a long time ago - it too sounded like your machine, when I looked for where the noise was coming from I found the belt had been repaired with a metal link joining the belt. The belt had been repaired with a twist in it. I ordered a new belt but in the meantime I flipped out the link and replaced it with out the twist. The machine ran quietly without the vibration.
Yes, I tried it Outlooker 251 - despite reading a warning about not using an end mill in a drill chuck.
I had just started to learn engineering and had a brand new small drill/mill. I had a very small flat to put in the side of a piece of drill rod (for a set screw engagement). I would use a very SMALL end mill, so what would be the harm - I reasoned. I could have easily mounted my end mill chuck - but I had been drilling holes you understand. Anyway, I had hardly touched the work when the chuck let go of its arbor....
There is an old saying that says that experience is what you get when you get noting else out of an endeavor. I have a little round gouge on the top of my mill vice's front jaw (where the end mill hit it) that I call my "experience mark"! Every time I see it I remind myself to listen when experience speaks. Joe has the experience and that is why I have subscribed. Thanks Joe!
Joe, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great video!
All good stuff Joe ....... I guess a quill helps ! Be great to see a video of your mill head tear down and refit .....I'm sure there are Kent of noisy mill heads out there. All the best Mat
Thats a good idea. I've never done it before, so it might be a good project.
Excellent video. I am learning lots...
Any tips on chamfering the eliptical hole equally all the way around ?
Thats a nagging problem. There is a tool for that, but I've never tried it. Its called something like an elipto bur.
Found it... Elipto Master...for $200-300 I think I will skip that step :)
Good sir let me say first you are bible of knowledge,keep doing videos like that-little tips and tricks and some common knowledge maybe not so avalable to everyone !
my question to you is gow do you drill a 90° hole in a pipe without a dividing table ?I cant go trough with a drill since i will encounter second curve,if i move it to do it from top side it wont be 90° anymore,and my starting drill or endmill are not long enough to hit the second wall of pipe to make flat spot.Any idea?
Hey Joe, I just caught this video today; figure you've got that noisy milling machine sorted by now... but if you've got any other maintenance/repairs needed, I'm moving to central Texas this year and would be happy to give a hand in appreciation for the fine content you keep putting up
I've been thinking about this the past couple days. Glad this video popped up
Thanks Joe. Great tip. Keep 'em coming!
cool stuff, thanks for sharing this.
can I ask though why will and end mill wreck a drill chuck?
Cheers
oh and what was the knocking?
Thank you for the great technique. What is the best way to de-burr/chamfer those holes?
I use a flat file to address the surface and usually a 3 corner scraper or a buffer to break the edges.
Good Tip, thats how I do it. Can I request a video? One area I am very uneducated in is the naming of different metals. I often hear people on RUclips refer to '4140' or '316' or in this video '17.4'. Can you give any explanation as to the where the numbers are derived from and how you would go about choosing what grade to use for a component. At home I just use what ever I can get hold of and at work we don't use any common materials so ive never had to study it. Cheers
I'll look into this one Crispin. Good suggestion. Coming from a medical background, I can say the 17-x series stainless steels are heat treatable. I was surprised at that one. 17-4 cuts great and heat treats easily. Ends up at around 44C rockwell.
Excellent tutorial. You have a new subscriber!
Thank you.
Hello Joe and Ro Efa,
One final thing.A pair of stethoscopes as used by car mechanics will quickly and accurately locate exactly where your machine noises are coming from without a lot if stripping and examining. Brilliant things and very cheap too.
Back in the day, we would stick the tip of a screwdriver against the suspect surface and grip the handle with our thumb over the end. Press that thumb knuckle against your ear and you have an instant stethoscope. Try it.
I suppose saying 'a PAIR of stethoscopes' has blown my cover as a doctor. Your videos are very educating for the experienced as well as the novice. They are presented so professionally they remind me of my time at night school. Great stuff. I think the screwdriver stethoscope was phased out in the seventies when we had long hair ;-).
I Still do that now. Great videos Joe. Very informative.
Hi Joe,
Great video as usual.
Just one comment......
Since I stopped using centre drills for anything other than drilling holes in which I'm going to use a centre, I've never had the tip break on one.
Spotting drills all the way!
What ever works, stick with it.
I'm just getting started - have really enjoyed your videos so far. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for watching!
I'm always leaning from you . Thanks Yvon
That's a good thing. Make sure you teach someone else.
Hey Joe, annual cutters are pretty rigid also. As always thanks for sharing.
Thank´s for sharing your experience. I´m a beginer chinistma , well almost, just 5 years in the trade. that noise on your mill may be the bearings. on another subject, I see you´ve been in Nayarit Mexico at "el Gordo" , I live in Mexico at a 4 hour drive to Nayarit.
Saludos desde Mexico
If you go there, bring your own bottle opener. Great seafood. Thanks for the comment.
I think if you turn on Closed captions starts @ 3:10. you will find its not rattling. It is "MUSIC". ahh the sweet sounds of a drill press! just sayin :)
Hi Joe,
Nice holes... My mill also needs some maintenance work in the head... :(
Cheers, Pierre
Hello Pierre. I may dig into it when the dust settles. Video material.
Great video. I completed a similar operation using some ugly gymnastics. Your solution was elegant!
Good job Joe. Why would you want to go slower with the center drill than the end mill considering surface fpm at the center drill?
Hi Joe. Please excuse the dumb question, but is there any reason why you couldn't do the whole job with the end-mill, and save on the tool changes? I would have thought that it would break through cleaner on the back side than the drill bit would.
I only asked an hour ago, so give the man a chance ;-) He has a day job after all.
I would say it's down to cost of end mill vs twist drill and length of tool available also maybe
There is no reason you couldn't finish the hole with an end mill, but plunging an end mill is historically not known to give a precision hole if its the first tool to cut. Following a drilled hole with an end mill to true up the hole is not unusual.
Hi Joe, great vid as per usual. I'm not trained as, nor do I work as a machinist. I call myself a "machinist as required", haha! I'm wondering how you calculate positioning the end mill so the center of the hole is where you want it. I can figure it out on the round bar by touching of on the side with an edge finder and moving to the correct spot (hopefully called out on the drawing). But how is it done on a flat piece set at an angle if the hole has to be positioned to line up with a mating hole? As the angle changes this mystery calculation also changes. Hope that is clear as mud!
ruclips.net/video/wS1043KWm-M/видео.html This is one way. A tooling ball gets the job done too.
Thanx Joe, I knew you'd know how. I just got a new pair of glasses today. Your ear pieces look really short to me, what's up with that? Are they comfortable that way?
They are. They fit my head like a glove.
Another excellent video, Thanks for all the great info that you pass on.
Extremely logical approach. I love you man!
really enjoy the great vids. you are doing a service to the world. and dont worry about that machine it will let ya know when its time to fix it.
Thats what I'm afraid of. That usually happens at the worst possible time too.
Thanks Joe, another most useful and obvious (after the fact) posting.
Best videos on the web. Ever thought about selling some of those advanced innovations shirts on your site? Would happily rep in NC!
Thanks Joe,
I would like to see video for machine/milling hexagon socket on turn table.
Thanks Stan
Hey Stan. Next time I put up a turn table, I'll shoot this. My CNC is my turn table at the moment.
Spot facing. Simple, but bloody effective!
once again i am thinking d'oh! that makes sense. Such a simple trick raising the bed.......thanks again Joe
Joe, I don't know where to ask this, so here goes :- I am being asked at work to machine an awkward part. It is an aluminium CNC machined car gearchange paddle from a steering wheel, and it needs a tiny bit of cosmetic machining to change a - sign to a + sign. They want me to stick it onto a flat surface with body filler to hold it in the correct attitude and then clamp the flat surface to the bed. Then manually machine the alteration on our shop Bridgeport clone. Is this normal practice? Sounds like a shortcut to get out of a hole to me rather than machine another one. Would you describe this as standard practice, as I have not seen this clamping system mentioned anywhere!
You would be surprised at how many different ways I have seen and personally held a part. Epoxy in a baggie, a sand bag....you name it. As long as the cutter load doesn't out shine the setup, it should work. Id personally let the body filler harden up first, and probably suggest a perimeter ring of some sort so it doesn't crack when you clamp down the paddle. Take small cuts and good luck.
Thanks for the prompt answer and reassurance. I will use common sense and small cuts, and shed loads of well mixed filler.
Roger Crier- Jewelers, Gunsmiths, Bladesmiths and Engravers of these small, random-shaped items grip them in their vices using a product called Thermo Loc. According to the MSDS, Thermo Loc is a blend of proprietary thermoplastics distributed by Glendo Corp and available for sale on their website www.grs.com. Thermo Loc is produced in round sticks approximately 0.25" in diameter & approximately 8" in length. It softens to a pliable "putty when heated in a microwave oven to between 140-158*F. Once shaped around the object, the margins of the Thermo Loc and be fashioned to create edges that can be firmly gripped in a vise after the thermoplastic cools to a hardened state at room temp. This should offer you a very flexible solution for work-holding on small/irregular parts that need to be machined. Cheers- John Visalia, CA
That sounds like a modern take on the watchmakers wax chuck. Sometimes they would use shellac to stick tiny components to a faceplate too.
Thanks Joe,really useful tip.
Joe, had the same noise on a Mitoyo knee mill last week. It was the bearings on the motor side of the head, on the spring side of the variable pulley. They develop that odd noise from bad wear or completely dry of oil.
The Mitoyo mill had oil spouts I soaked with medium weight oil and ran the machine without load for roughly 30 minutes.
Turns out all spouts were bone dry which made the bearings noisy.
I suggest a heavier weight oil in your oil spouts followed by running the machine at varying rpms without load (goes without saying check the health of the belt as a flat spot makes the same noise).
Let me know if it work.
It turned out to be the plastic spline shaft bushings on the motor drive shaft.
What would you do if you had an odd size hole like say 17/64" or 9/32" for which you don't have an end mill of the same diameter? Would you be forced to use a 5/16" end mill to do the 'footprint' and then switch to the desired drill bit or is there another technique? BTW I really enjoy that you use manual machines to do your videos instead of relying on NC/CNC machines. Knowing how to use manual machinery provides a solid foundation for a person to move to computerized machines. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Use the next size up if the part allows.
love your videos I'm new at metal working I went out and I bought an old Logan lathe and rebuilt it new. I have a Harding lathe that's an absolutely beautiful day and I have a mill and some welding equipment. I just built a really nice bar roller that works really nice I'm so happy the day. It's funny that I actually just instinctively started doing this meth than with an anvil it makes sense. that's so that makes me happy that I figured out something myself that's actually a real solution
Curious how you would find the center (x axis) to drill the hole in the right spot on the angled piece?? Great videos! 221
ruclips.net/video/wS1043KWm-M/видео.html I hope this helps.
Yep, that's how I do it. I was told way back that you never use an end mill in a chuck. That it is bad for the chuck. Though I have done this in aluminum when only making a flat big enough to get a center drill on. (by the way, I am looking to get out of production lathe work. Need a hand out there in Texas Joe) ; )
Thanks Joe for being so informative.
Hi Cap'n
Thanks for another nice practical problem solving Video. Had done this before, but U explain and do it lots better Feeding with the Knee.
Will give Your method a shot in future.
Would have been nice to see how U would centred on the Cylindrical without the DRO, which most of us don't have. I know U would say use the Centre Finders and the Mill Dials, but is there another method ??? Just thinking out aloud. Don't mind me.
Oh well, we have the CDC Tool for that.
All the best
aRM
You can use a dial indicator to sweep either the body of your cylinder, or the surfaces if you have a stop to use. Just be sure to pickup the high spots both vertically and radially on each side. Easy.
Sounds like a good video.
Interesting technique Joe. How would you suggest actually locating the hole in the angled piece of stock? With the round stock an edge finder can be used and the position of the hole set using the DRO. Say you wanted to drill a hole 2" in from the end of the angled stock, how would you proceed?
I did a video on that a while back. Check the library for the the same title. locating the hole in the angled piece of stock
Hey Joe, thanks. I just have a Grizzly mini mill and cant raise up the table, I have a ER 20 setup and can use the fine adjustment instead of drill press style operation, any tips or just peck at it? Don't know about your mill but sounds like some excess backlash of gears in drive, and it sounds like $$$, good luck. God Bless Ya, Dave
Excellent info, great video, Cheers
Joe you're great thanks for sharing that trick!
You've saved my life, thank you! Exactly the solution I am looking for.
you need less critical occupation, if its a matter of life and death. :-)
@@twickersruss nice one :)
great video Joe could this technique be used on a drill press and if so how would we go about doing it scene you can't put a end mill in a drill chuck thanks for sharing your knowledge
raymond woodring. if you have the means you could make an end mill holder/collet.
basically a sleeve made out of something like mild steel so the hardened chuck jaws can grab it. use a set screw to secure the end mill.
but remember, a drill press uses a taper to secure the chuck, side pressure like you will get in this operation will likely cause it to come apart at speed.
I wish I could suggest an alternate method, but drill chucks on drill presses weren't designed for end mill loads. It may work for you if you creep down to depth by small adjustments on your quill adjustment nut. I am going to guess it will jump around quite a bit. You won't know unless you try it, but its really not good for the machine.
Or, redefine your end mill as a flat ended drill and carry on regardless. Loads are axial, so a drill chuck will work just fine, it is any side thrust that is the big NO-NO for drill chucks, not only for holding problems but also you tend to loosen Morse tapers.
edit I just read some more comment/replies and see you have mention tapers.