I'm more or less a self taught machinist. I don't do anything very precision but make lots of non-critical stuff. I have learned a lot from your videos. What I really like is that you don't spend 20 minutes talking about useless stuff. You are right to the point and show how it's done. Thank you so much for sharing you vast knowledge of machining.
It's nice to see someone sharing good tips, a lot of engineers like to keep these to themselves. I've seen over the years the skill level of young engineers drop dramatically due to cnc machining, it seems like all they're getting is just a green button apprenticeship. Keep up the good work! 👍
Hey Joe if you were close enough I'd fix your mill for you. You guys that take the time to share info like this are certainly earning some help from those of us who are able to help. Thanks for your efforts, many people are glad to see you share your experience. Thanks
Here it is Feb 2023, and I am going back 5 yrs to refresh my ole mind as to a round part that needs a 11/64 pass through hole, but at a 2deg angle. Joe knowledge an teaching is better than looking up how-too's I'm my Machinists Handbook any day! Heck, he's still teaching us in 2023 and I owe 98% as a hobbyist from Joe. Keep on Keeping on friend! Bear.
Just started in machining 5 years ago when I met my best dude Randal. He's a tool and die maker for 40 odd years. He has taught me loads of things you could never learn in school! I have been watching your channel for a while now and trying your techniques in the shop. Some he already knows and has taught me such as this OP. And some I even taught him. I was real proud of that you can bet! We do not have any cnc machines. Everything is manual with DROs as our only electronics. Most everything we do is custom one off parts or repairs and sometimes small production runs of say up to 100 parts. Thanks for putting your time and knowledge out there for those who have this passion to make and create. Who would otherwise not have the opportunity to meet someone such as I have to help them learn. You are really giving back. Not only to the community but to the world! LOL! Hook 'em Horns! Formerly Temple/Belton, TX now Fort Wayne, IN.
Hi Joe I am fitter and machinist by trade here in Australia and the tricks you have shown and the clear and understandable way present them are really great.l am 63 and have worked in large machine shops, toolrooms and general maintenance and have never seen some these great techniques in the other videos, Fantastic work Joe, keep it coming, kind regards Jay
Joe...Love your videos. I'm 38 years old with 10 years of machining experience. Unfortunately, I started backwards in the machining industry on the CNC mill and lathe machines. Only as recently as this year did I transition to manual machining as a conscious career choice. Essentially, I want to become a better machinist. The amount of respect and awe I have for those trailblazers who plied their craft on Bridgeport mills and Cincinnati lathes is immeasurable (not even calipers can measure it ;) ) Its one thing to push a bunch of buttons and rely on a programmer to plot out your work. From a business owner's standpoint, I'm sure CNC helps to increase productivity and reduce error. However, it's an entirely different level of production when you are forced to do the thinking for yourself and understand why you are implementing certain processes. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks again, Joe. I always look forward to your videos and watch them first despite having about 50 subscriptions to other channels. Although being new to this, you are one of the best.
Thanks, Joe. I’m not a machinist, just a wannabe. I tried this on my Bridgeport mill (old round ram with no nod feature). It worked perfectly! Thanks for teaching. Much appreciated.
More great info- who the hell puts a thumbs down on this?Evidently they have no idea just how valuable all this stuff is even if you already know a lot of it- small side comments that you make are often quite illuminating- thanks again Joe. Just brilliant
I know this is a 4 year old video but I needed to make sure I'm on the right track with drilling and tapping some holes into a few round parts for a race bike I'm building. Yet again you sorted it Joe. I need to counterbore to recess the heads of some cap screws into the parts so this technique is just the job. Oh, and my Bridgeport head rattles like crazy too lol. Thanks again from the UK.
Another Great video Joe- the head on my mill sounds similar. When you find out what it is - let us all know with a repair video. That's exactly how I do angled holes or holes on round stock - you need a flat.
im not a machinist but i have a mill and I have a very specific need to drill an angled hole. Its for gas port in a virgin rifle barrel. This video was very helpful Thanks!
Thanks Joe. I'm glad that I subscribed to your channel. As a newby I've learned quite a few things from you. I'm glad that you are willing to share your knowledge with me.
Joe Pie, thanks for sharing. That technique convinced me. Keep making these vids please. I refer friends to your vids because you demonstrate and explain well.
I just have to thank you again I never thought of making a flat spot or using an end mill, I always used a guide, other part with hole it or I just didn't try to drill at any angle but a 90 degree ! If you every need another Job Please start teaching young people !! Your easy going,simply straight forward way of presenting things is just what this generation badly needs as most seam still lost at 20 - 30 yrs and older ! Your the Solution!
Your absolutely correct, spare the rod spoil the Child-sort of! I never spanked my two Daughters - just cut their privileges & taught them right from wrong, tried to raise them right & show them by example what it's like when 2 people Really Love each as my wife & I do!
I had to do this in 3/4 S/S nuts for a anti tamper wire. Orders were for 1,000. Came in from the side with a 3/16 4f center cut @ 850-900rpm then set up with the drill bit. Gota love an air vice!
OK well done. This is one of the first techniques I learned as an apprentice journeyman 45 years ago. Make a flat before you drill. In my case it was clearance drilling and counter boring for 4-40 socket head screws on the edge of .75 diameter copper bar clamp. 3/16 dia. end mill (as flat and c'bore), center drill, 1/8 clearance drill. de-burr, done. Point, you can use non-center cutting end mill if you can enter the workpiece from the side, X or Y axis rather than Z axis as shown. in the video'
Mr. Joe Pieczynski, many thanks for sharing your knowledge through his instructive and well explained videos. Besides dedication for the quality of its editions. Again, Thank you very much and greetings from Argentina.
Just found your video channel few days ago, Joe. As an older machinist who is still turning all the dials by hand, I enjoy watching. My shop is very small, and I make mostly one-offs and short runs of parts for various customers. Love seeing you work on the manual machines, but enjoy some of the CNC vids, too. What's really nice is seeing someone who knows some of the older tricks I learned when I was young, working with the old heads in the trade. Thanks for the enjoyable banter, too.
I so enjoy your videos...I am a retired Aircraft Propeller Blade Technition...I have worked on many different types of Aircraft Propeller, from C130 and P3 Orion, Cessna Aircraft, Pipers, and crop dusters, and the list goes on....I Am fascinated by Your precision and downright incredible ability to make things work...The knocking sound in Your milling machine, is like a set screw has backed out of a rotating shaft and is hitting a stationary metal structure..? I am considering purchasing a small (used) lathe, and making some fun things...there is a video of a gyroscope and a few other things I am looking at also....Henry...keep up the wonderful Work You are doing...
Hey Joe. Looks like you got things working REALLY well with your new video setup. Well focused and steady, good lighting and good sound. Congrats. Good info on this video. Thanks
Super useful. I have done the mill cutter in a Jacob's chuck and had it pull into the job and ruin it, causing me to invest in an er collet which has been a blessing.
Everyone is different, but I am not a fan of endmills in chucks. I do it once in a while if I am counterboring aluminum and there is already a hole, but otherwise, you are not going to catch me finishing an 80% lower on a drill press.
Great tip!! I have used the end mill trick. But using the knee to control the feed is priceless.. P.S. I had a drill press making same noise, ended up the set screw on motor pulley backed off allowing it to rattle on the key way...
That mill sounds as noisy as mine, a cheap Chinese ZX50CA, with geared head. I have tried adding thicker transmission oil but one of these days I will have to take it apart and check the bearings and gear meshing if I want to keep my hearing! Love the videos and have learned alot from them, keep up the good work.
Hey Joe, I just caught this video today; figure you've got that noisy milling machine sorted by now... but if you've got any other maintenance/repairs needed, I'm moving to central Texas this year and would be happy to give a hand in appreciation for the fine content you keep putting up
I’m a new subscriber and very new at machining. A hobby in my retirement. Love your way of thinking and vast experience. I own a very low end King mill, belt drive with stacked pully,s. On one occasion while changing speeds, I encountered the exact same rattle. Turned out I over tightened the belts. After the tension on the belts was adjusted, the rattle was gone. Who know, maybe something to check. Thanks for the videos.
If your mill has one of those sliding levers in the front of the head up top for back gear, sometimes the bushing that rides in the inclined slot can wear down and cause the gears to rub inside. If you have that type, check that bushing.
Joe I would have done it the same way you did.... With one variation. Even if I were using a face cutting end Mill, I would plunge cut only down to the point of where I had a full diameter flat..... And then I would have walked it out to the side in order to ensure that the surface the center drill would encounter would be dead flat. I'm used to working to aircraft tolerances and I would have to minimize any chance at the center drill would walk even a couple of thousands off center if it encountered a convex surface left by a simple end Mill plunge. Also, to minimize the drill walking as it broke through the backside I might have pre-drilled a 1/8" pilot hole all the way through, and I would make sure that the final sized drill would have a split point..... So that the linear pressure on the drill would be reduced. This would help to minimize it from walking as it broke through the other side. All in all, you've made a great video here!
I will support Martin Vernon's comment concerning the spline and spline socket rattling. Probably caused by a slightly bent spline shaft. This will cause the knocking your mill is making. Good video and well explained.
videos get better and better. Great detail. i really like how u focus on oddball things or things that arent usually talked about but happen all the time in the shop. Maybe you can do a video on using endmills in the lathe in the future? Maybe knurling or reaming? I really liked the steady rest video. I always seem to have problems with chatter / endmill cutting way oversize. Sadly, our shop doesnt have the proper tooling for the job a lot of the time and I have to improvise. Thanks for the videos Joe Pi
I think my Bridgeport was even louder. I rebuilt the top end last month. It's probably just a bushing repair. There's plastic bushings on the motor pulley ( on variable speed machines) and the front variable speed pulley. But on my machine nearly every bearing felt like it had sand in it as well, so I was glad I did the whole top end - just a couple hundred dollars in parts, I got a great understanding of how the machine works and the nearly silent running machine was the reward.
I also second Jame's recommendation. It could just be the plastic bushing the spindle drive pulley. I've heard that's a common source of noise in older machines.
Just to go a little further to accommodate an odd sized hole you can trig out in infinite number of offsets from the hole center in order to achieve a near perfect match to the drill size required (if necessary). 3 steps per quadrant will usually suffice if the end mill is close to the desired hole diameter. Thanks, by the way, for giving me an outlet for what has become useless information now that I have retired.
What we need is a sort of Peace Corp where retired guys can fan out and share their tons of information with younger guys wanting to learn. It is a shame the amount of hard won information that is lost every day in the world as guys exit the work force, no matter how well deserved.
I don't think it will ever be useless information. We hobbyist are always in need of tips from you old masters. Any tip you guys can give is priceless information to pass on to the next generation of machinist.
Great video, I like the tip, Id probably try to finish the whole with the end mill, that should be interesting. As far as the noise goes, I got the same one, and I finally fixed it! Ear plugs...take care and keep making vids!
Yep, that's how I do it. I was told way back that you never use an end mill in a chuck. That it is bad for the chuck. Though I have done this in aluminum when only making a flat big enough to get a center drill on. (by the way, I am looking to get out of production lathe work. Need a hand out there in Texas Joe) ; )
what if you dont have a powered lift on your drill just on old jobber drill press with a hand crank and no way to move it without it moving sideways around the drills center ?
...Nice to be the first... Hi Joe - thanks for this video. I knew to make a starting pocket for this holes, but to use the quill for a better "feeling" is new to me. Thanks again and keep going on. Tom
Joe, I use this trick often but I would make sure and give a caution. Not everyone out there has a Milling Machine and my try this on a Drill Press. It's not a good idea to do this in a Drill Press as the Endmill will often walk, reach the edge of the hole, dig in and break off. You used a Center Drill after the Endmill as one of your steps. For Drill Press users, try the same thing except skip the Endmill and use the Center Drill as step one. You can go deep enough with the Center Drill if you use frequent Peck cycles to let the captured chips fly out of the short Flutes on a Center Drill. If you go deep enough, you will have a full circle to start your cut with a Drill and there is the starter hole created by the Center Drill to keep everything centered up.
You will have to be very patient. The centerdrill 2 flute design will have a greater tendency to walk than an end mill. Its the angled tip of the centerdrill and angled surface that will increase deflection potential.
Joe Pieczynsk: This is one of those, "I thought everyone knew that" subjects. However, there might be some that will experience an 'ah ha' moment and benefit from this video. I'm not so proud that I can't admit I've learned or have had my memory jogged from some of your videos.
love your videos I'm new at metal working I went out and I bought an old Logan lathe and rebuilt it new. I have a Harding lathe that's an absolutely beautiful day and I have a mill and some welding equipment. I just built a really nice bar roller that works really nice I'm so happy the day. It's funny that I actually just instinctively started doing this meth than with an anvil it makes sense. that's so that makes me happy that I figured out something myself that's actually a real solution
How do they get the small holes in a butane lighter burner valve that has 1.5mm diameter round stock valve with a .5mm hole drilled on the side like you just did on your round S.S. rod. What kind of equipment is able to do this on a production made part
We have 3 off SS316 bars, dia 2.25", 1.5" and 5/8", length 140 mm each. What drill bit or end mill should we be using to cut 3mm dia flat bottomed holes down through their cylindrical surface, and also what material? This will be done for ultrasonic inspection of the bars. thanks.
Useful tip for drilling on an offset. I to don't like the idea of using an end mill in a drill chuck as I've been told the vibration set up in the cutting process is enough to work the chuck or the end mill loose. I've never tried this but can always remember my instructor tell us about this. I had a bench drill given to me a long time ago - it too sounded like your machine, when I looked for where the noise was coming from I found the belt had been repaired with a metal link joining the belt. The belt had been repaired with a twist in it. I ordered a new belt but in the meantime I flipped out the link and replaced it with out the twist. The machine ran quietly without the vibration.
Yes, I tried it Outlooker 251 - despite reading a warning about not using an end mill in a drill chuck. I had just started to learn engineering and had a brand new small drill/mill. I had a very small flat to put in the side of a piece of drill rod (for a set screw engagement). I would use a very SMALL end mill, so what would be the harm - I reasoned. I could have easily mounted my end mill chuck - but I had been drilling holes you understand. Anyway, I had hardly touched the work when the chuck let go of its arbor.... There is an old saying that says that experience is what you get when you get noting else out of an endeavor. I have a little round gouge on the top of my mill vice's front jaw (where the end mill hit it) that I call my "experience mark"! Every time I see it I remind myself to listen when experience speaks. Joe has the experience and that is why I have subscribed. Thanks Joe!
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I'm more or less a self taught machinist. I don't do anything very precision but make lots of non-critical stuff. I have learned a lot from your videos. What I really like is that you don't spend 20 minutes talking about useless stuff. You are right to the point and show how it's done. Thank you so much for sharing you vast knowledge of machining.
Thank you.
It's nice to see someone sharing good tips, a lot of engineers like to keep these to themselves.
I've seen over the years the skill level of young engineers drop dramatically due to cnc machining, it seems like all they're getting is just a green button apprenticeship.
Keep up the good work! 👍
Hey Joe if you were close enough I'd fix your mill for you. You guys that take the time to share info like this are certainly earning some help from those of us who are able to help. Thanks for your efforts, many people are glad to see you share your experience. Thanks
I finally tore the head down last week. I'll post a video of the fix.
Thanks Joe as an old frustrated hobby machinist it is awesome to have somebody of your caliber give up the tidbits of a lifetime in the industry
Here it is Feb 2023, and I am going back 5 yrs to refresh my ole mind as to a round part that needs a 11/64 pass through hole, but at a 2deg angle. Joe knowledge an teaching is better than looking up how-too's I'm my Machinists Handbook any day! Heck, he's still teaching us in 2023 and I owe 98% as a hobbyist from Joe. Keep on Keeping on friend! Bear.
Thanks for stopping by Bear.
Just started in machining 5 years ago when I met my best dude Randal. He's a tool and die maker for 40 odd years. He has taught me loads of things you could never learn in school! I have been watching your channel for a while now and trying your techniques in the shop. Some he already knows and has taught me such as this OP. And some I even taught him. I was real proud of that you can bet! We do not have any cnc machines. Everything is manual with DROs as our only electronics. Most everything we do is custom one off parts or repairs and sometimes small production runs of say up to 100 parts. Thanks for putting your time and knowledge out there for those who have this passion to make and create. Who would otherwise not have the opportunity to meet someone such as I have to help them learn. You are really giving back. Not only to the community but to the world! LOL! Hook 'em Horns! Formerly Temple/Belton, TX now Fort Wayne, IN.
Some day you will be that dude. Learn all you can, while you can, then pass it on. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Joe
I am fitter and machinist by trade here in Australia and the tricks you have shown and the clear and understandable way present them are really great.l am 63 and have worked in large machine shops, toolrooms and general maintenance and have never seen some these great techniques in the other videos, Fantastic work Joe, keep it coming, kind regards Jay
Joe...Love your videos. I'm 38 years old with 10 years of machining experience. Unfortunately, I started backwards in the machining industry on the CNC mill and lathe machines. Only as recently as this year did I transition to manual machining as a conscious career choice. Essentially, I want to become a better machinist.
The amount of respect and awe I have for those trailblazers who plied their craft on Bridgeport mills and Cincinnati lathes is immeasurable (not even calipers can measure it ;) )
Its one thing to push a bunch of buttons and rely on a programmer to plot out your work. From a business owner's standpoint, I'm sure CNC helps to increase productivity and reduce error. However, it's an entirely different level of production when you are forced to do the thinking for yourself and understand why you are implementing certain processes. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks again, Joe. I always look forward to your videos and watch them first despite having about 50 subscriptions to other channels. Although being new to this, you are one of the best.
Thank you very much. I appreciate the compliment.
Thanks, Joe. I’m not a machinist, just a wannabe. I tried this on my Bridgeport mill (old round ram with no nod feature). It worked perfectly! Thanks for teaching. Much appreciated.
that's all well when you are in the shop ! how would you do the some on a job in situ
Thanks Joe, every time I watch you I learn something good, thank you!
More great info- who the hell puts a thumbs down on this?Evidently they have no idea just how valuable all this stuff is even if you already know a lot of it- small side comments that you make are often quite illuminating- thanks again Joe. Just brilliant
Over 5 years after you posted this but want to say thank you for the lessons and I always learn something from your videos.
Glad to help
I know this is a 4 year old video but I needed to make sure I'm on the right track with drilling and tapping some holes into a few round parts for a race bike I'm building. Yet again you sorted it Joe. I need to counterbore to recess the heads of some cap screws into the parts so this technique is just the job.
Oh, and my Bridgeport head rattles like crazy too lol.
Thanks again from the UK.
Another Great video Joe- the head on my mill sounds similar. When you find out what it is - let us all know with a repair video. That's exactly how I do angled holes or holes on round stock - you need a flat.
Thanks again Joe. This helped out greatly with some Sten gun builds and tube holes that are required.
im not a machinist but i have a mill and I have a very specific need to drill an angled hole. Its for gas port in a virgin rifle barrel. This video was very helpful Thanks!
Alfred Clemency make sure you take deburring into consideration.
Thanks Joe. I'm glad that I subscribed to your channel. As a newby I've learned quite a few things from you. I'm glad that you are willing to share your knowledge with me.
I had many quality guys help me along the way. Just paying it back.
Thank you Joe, another clever solution to a problem often encountered!
Joe Pie, thanks for sharing. That technique convinced me. Keep making these vids please. I refer friends to your vids because you demonstrate and explain well.
Thank you.
I just got my grizzly 16x31 combo last week setting up and truing up this week love your videos learning a lot from your videos thanks
I just have to thank you again I never thought of making a flat spot or using an end mill,
I always used a guide, other part with hole it or I just didn't try to drill at any angle but a
90 degree ! If you every need another Job Please start teaching young people !!
Your easy going,simply straight forward way of presenting things is just what this
generation badly needs as most seam still lost at 20 - 30 yrs and older ! Your the Solution!
IgotHeliFever it's not the generations fault it's their parents. It's the generation that this generation had their examples set by
Your absolutely correct, spare the rod spoil the Child-sort of! I never
spanked my two Daughters - just cut their privileges & taught them
right from wrong, tried to raise them right & show them by example
what it's like when 2 people Really Love each as my wife & I do!
Your drill chatters less than my wife, so that's a blessing to hear.
This was good lesson for me. Thank you and greetings from Poland.
I had to do this in 3/4 S/S nuts for a anti tamper wire. Orders were for 1,000. Came in from the side with a 3/16 4f center cut @ 850-900rpm then set up with the drill bit. Gota love an air vice!
OK well done. This is one of the first techniques I learned as an apprentice journeyman 45 years ago. Make a flat before you drill. In my case it was clearance drilling and counter boring for 4-40 socket head screws on the edge of .75 diameter copper bar clamp. 3/16 dia. end mill (as flat and c'bore), center drill, 1/8 clearance drill. de-burr, done. Point, you can use non-center cutting end mill if you can enter the workpiece from the side, X or Y axis rather than Z axis as shown. in the video'
Mr. Joe Pieczynski, many thanks for sharing your knowledge through his instructive and well explained videos. Besides dedication for the quality of its editions.
Again, Thank you very much and greetings from Argentina.
Thanks for your comment and support.
Just found your video channel few days ago, Joe. As an older machinist who is still turning all the dials by hand, I enjoy watching. My shop is very small, and I make mostly one-offs and short runs of parts for various customers. Love seeing you work on the manual machines, but enjoy some of the CNC vids, too.
What's really nice is seeing someone who knows some of the older tricks I learned when I was young, working with the old heads in the trade.
Thanks for the enjoyable banter, too.
Thanks for watching.
Great tip (using an end mill) for drilling on a slanted piece, Joe. I never would've thought of that. Thank you!
I so enjoy your videos...I am a retired Aircraft Propeller Blade Technition...I have worked on many different types of Aircraft Propeller, from C130 and P3 Orion, Cessna Aircraft, Pipers, and crop dusters, and the list goes on....I Am fascinated by Your precision and downright incredible ability to make things work...The knocking sound in Your milling machine, is like a set screw has backed out of a rotating shaft and is hitting a stationary metal structure..? I am considering purchasing a small (used) lathe, and making some fun things...there is a video of a gyroscope and a few other things I am looking at also....Henry...keep up the wonderful Work You are doing...
Another excellent video, Thanks for all the great info that you pass on.
Joe, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great video!
Hey Joe. Looks like you got things working REALLY well with your new video setup. Well focused and steady, good lighting and good sound. Congrats. Good info on this video. Thanks
Thanks. I'm figuring it out slowly.
Extremely logical approach. I love you man!
I like the tip that you made for bringing your work up to the End Mill to eliminate the chattering, great idea, thanks for sharing
It works very well. The quill bounce is almost entirely eliminated.
Thanks Joe for being so informative.
Super useful. I have done the mill cutter in a Jacob's chuck and had it pull into the job and ruin it, causing me to invest in an er collet which has been a blessing.
Everyone is different, but I am not a fan of endmills in chucks. I do it once in a while if I am counterboring aluminum and there is already a hole, but otherwise, you are not going to catch me finishing an 80% lower on a drill press.
The auto-generated closed captions referred to the mill rattle as 1) Music, 2) Applause
Nice video, exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!
Great tip!! I have used the end mill trick. But using the knee to control the feed is priceless.. P.S. I had a drill press making same noise, ended up the set screw on motor pulley backed off allowing it to rattle on the key way...
That mill sounds as noisy as mine, a cheap Chinese ZX50CA, with geared head. I have tried adding thicker transmission oil but one of these days I will have to take it apart and check the bearings and gear meshing if I want to keep my hearing! Love the videos and have learned alot from them, keep up the good work.
Thank you
Hey Joe, I just caught this video today; figure you've got that noisy milling machine sorted by now... but if you've got any other maintenance/repairs needed, I'm moving to central Texas this year and would be happy to give a hand in appreciation for the fine content you keep putting up
I've been thinking about this the past couple days. Glad this video popped up
I'm just getting started - have really enjoyed your videos so far. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Joe, another most useful and obvious (after the fact) posting.
Hey Joe, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge! thanks Mike
I’m a new subscriber and very new at machining. A hobby in my retirement. Love your way of thinking and vast experience. I own a very low end King mill, belt drive with stacked pully,s. On one occasion while changing speeds, I encountered the exact same rattle. Turned out I over tightened the belts. After the tension on the belts was adjusted, the rattle was gone. Who know, maybe something to check. Thanks for the videos.
If your mill has one of those sliding levers in the front of the head up top for back gear, sometimes the bushing that rides in the inclined slot can wear down and cause the gears to rub inside. If you have that type, check that bushing.
You've saved my life, thank you! Exactly the solution I am looking for.
you need less critical occupation, if its a matter of life and death. :-)
@@twickersruss nice one :)
Hello Joe,
I have enjoyed all of your videos and learned a lot from them too. You also have a good presentational style. Keep 'em coming.
Ian.
once again i am thinking d'oh! that makes sense. Such a simple trick raising the bed.......thanks again Joe
Thanks Joe. Great tip. Keep 'em coming!
What a pleasure to watch this. Good job!
Thank you.
Simple well explained solutions, great channel, thanks Joe ;-)
Thank You for taking the time to teach .
Joe I would have done it the same way you did.... With one variation. Even if I were using a face cutting end Mill, I would plunge cut only down to the point of where I had a full diameter flat..... And then I would have walked it out to the side in order to ensure that the surface the center drill would encounter would be dead flat. I'm used to working to aircraft tolerances and I would have to minimize any chance at the center drill would walk even a couple of thousands off center if it encountered a convex surface left by a simple end Mill plunge.
Also, to minimize the drill walking as it broke through the backside I might have pre-drilled a 1/8" pilot hole all the way through, and I would make sure that the final sized drill would have a split point..... So that the linear pressure on the drill would be reduced. This would help to minimize it from walking as it broke through the other side.
All in all, you've made a great video here!
Great video. I completed a similar operation using some ugly gymnastics. Your solution was elegant!
I will support Martin Vernon's comment concerning the spline and spline socket rattling. Probably caused by a slightly bent spline shaft. This will cause the knocking your mill is making. Good video and well explained.
videos get better and better. Great detail. i really like how u focus on oddball things or things that arent usually talked about but happen all the time in the shop. Maybe you can do a video on using endmills in the lathe in the future? Maybe knurling or reaming? I really liked the steady rest video. I always seem to have problems with chatter / endmill cutting way oversize. Sadly, our shop doesnt have the proper tooling for the job a lot of the time and I have to improvise.
Thanks for the videos Joe Pi
I think my Bridgeport was even louder. I rebuilt the top end last month. It's probably just a bushing repair. There's plastic bushings on the motor pulley ( on variable speed machines) and the front variable speed pulley. But on my machine nearly every bearing felt like it had sand in it as well, so I was glad I did the whole top end - just a couple hundred dollars in parts, I got a great understanding of how the machine works and the nearly silent running machine was the reward.
Time is my enemy. I'd love to do that. That machine hasn't been quiet for some time.
I also second Jame's recommendation. It could just be the plastic bushing the spindle drive pulley. I've heard that's a common source of noise in older machines.
It is, but getting the motor off is a BITCH
Great tip. Thanks Joe!
Thanks Joe,really useful tip.
Excellent videos and solutions .
Awesome...never disappointed! Thanks!
Spot facing. Simple, but bloody effective!
Just to go a little further to accommodate an odd sized hole you can trig out in infinite number of offsets from the hole center in order to achieve a near perfect match to the drill size required (if necessary). 3 steps per quadrant will usually suffice if the end mill is close to the desired hole diameter. Thanks, by the way, for giving me an outlet for what has become useless information now that I have retired.
What we need is a sort of Peace Corp where retired guys can fan out and share their tons of information with younger guys wanting to learn. It is a shame the amount of hard won information that is lost every day in the world as guys exit the work force, no matter how well deserved.
I don't think it will ever be useless information. We hobbyist are always in need of tips from you old masters. Any tip you guys can give is priceless information to pass on to the next generation of machinist.
Excellent video. I am learning lots...
really enjoy the great vids. you are doing a service to the world. and dont worry about that machine it will let ya know when its time to fix it.
Thats what I'm afraid of. That usually happens at the worst possible time too.
Great video, I like the tip, Id probably try to finish the whole with the end mill, that should be interesting. As far as the noise goes, I got the same one, and I finally fixed it! Ear plugs...take care and keep making vids!
Good tips Joe. Thanks
Very cool. What a useful tip. Thank you for sharing this one; it will come in very handy. (My Bridgeport mill sounds like your’s).
My front spline bushings need to be replaced in the worst way.
Yep, that's how I do it. I was told way back that you never use an end mill in a chuck. That it is bad for the chuck. Though I have done this in aluminum when only making a flat big enough to get a center drill on. (by the way, I am looking to get out of production lathe work. Need a hand out there in Texas Joe) ; )
Joe you're great thanks for sharing that trick!
Thanks for another helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
good stuff as always Joe.
You the Man! Great info, thanks
Excellent info, great video, Cheers
Joe, Thanks for the video, another new tool in the box. I think my mill is a sister to yours... she's a rattler too! :) Take Care
what if you dont have a powered lift on your drill just on old jobber drill press with a hand crank and no way to move it without it moving sideways around the drills center ?
...Nice to be the first...
Hi Joe - thanks for this video. I knew to make a starting pocket for this holes, but to use the quill for a better "feeling" is new to me.
Thanks again and keep going on.
Tom
Will do. Thanks.
Had that same problem with a jet mill I worked on. Check your variable speed pulley disks on the motor side. Also, the associated bearings
Joe, I use this trick often but I would make sure and give a caution. Not everyone out there has a Milling Machine and my try this on a Drill Press. It's not a good idea to do this in a Drill Press as the Endmill will often walk, reach the edge of the hole, dig in and break off. You used a Center Drill after the Endmill as one of your steps. For Drill Press users, try the same thing except skip the Endmill and use the Center Drill as step one. You can go deep enough with the Center Drill if you use frequent Peck cycles to let the captured chips fly out of the short Flutes on a Center Drill. If you go deep enough, you will have a full circle to start your cut with a Drill and there is the starter hole created by the Center Drill to keep everything centered up.
You will have to be very patient. The centerdrill 2 flute design will have a greater tendency to walk than an end mill. Its the angled tip of the centerdrill and angled surface that will increase deflection potential.
I'm always leaning from you . Thanks Yvon
That's a good thing. Make sure you teach someone else.
Good job Joe. Why would you want to go slower with the center drill than the end mill considering surface fpm at the center drill?
I've not done the center drill step, I'm sure that will help. Thanks!
Cheers joe got that sorted mate great help will take. Picture of the part and fire it over but managed to sort it
What would you do different if the hole in your round stock needs to break thru the edge?
Good stuff Joe! Congratulations on passing 10k subs.
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin. I am flattered by the support. I enjoy the contact with the world. Pretty cool.
Joe Pieczynsk: This is one of those, "I thought everyone knew that" subjects. However, there might be some that will experience an 'ah ha' moment and benefit from this video. I'm not so proud that I can't admit I've learned or have had my memory jogged from some of your videos.
Very good Thanks. Off course there is no need for digital read out if you set the table low enough to change the bits without moving the piece.
Very nice! Thank You
Good info, thanks for posting.
Thank you!
On aluminium alloys I use ball endmill and then drill (2 steps to make a hole).
Good idea.
Great stuff Joe thanks a million.
Good Luck.
love your videos I'm new at metal working I went out and I bought an old Logan lathe and rebuilt it new. I have a Harding lathe that's an absolutely beautiful day and I have a mill and some welding equipment. I just built a really nice bar roller that works really nice I'm so happy the day. It's funny that I actually just instinctively started doing this meth than with an anvil it makes sense. that's so that makes me happy that I figured out something myself that's actually a real solution
Great video! If your not going to plung the endmill straight through, boring is cool too! 🙂
Hey Joe, annual cutters are pretty rigid also. As always thanks for sharing.
How do they get the small holes in a butane lighter burner valve that has 1.5mm diameter round stock valve with a .5mm hole
drilled on the side like you just did on your round S.S. rod. What kind of equipment is able to do this on a production made part
Question, how about a piece of round stock placed at a 45° angle like you did with the bar stock?
you are a great experience teacher
We have 3 off SS316 bars, dia 2.25", 1.5" and 5/8", length 140 mm each. What drill bit or end mill should we be using to cut 3mm dia flat bottomed holes down through their cylindrical surface, and also what material? This will be done for ultrasonic inspection of the bars. thanks.
Thanks for the good tip!
Useful tip for drilling on an offset. I to don't like the idea of using an end mill in a drill chuck as I've been told the vibration set up in the cutting process is enough to work the chuck or the end mill loose. I've never tried this but can always remember my instructor tell us about this. I had a bench drill given to me a long time ago - it too sounded like your machine, when I looked for where the noise was coming from I found the belt had been repaired with a metal link joining the belt. The belt had been repaired with a twist in it. I ordered a new belt but in the meantime I flipped out the link and replaced it with out the twist. The machine ran quietly without the vibration.
Yes, I tried it Outlooker 251 - despite reading a warning about not using an end mill in a drill chuck.
I had just started to learn engineering and had a brand new small drill/mill. I had a very small flat to put in the side of a piece of drill rod (for a set screw engagement). I would use a very SMALL end mill, so what would be the harm - I reasoned. I could have easily mounted my end mill chuck - but I had been drilling holes you understand. Anyway, I had hardly touched the work when the chuck let go of its arbor....
There is an old saying that says that experience is what you get when you get noting else out of an endeavor. I have a little round gouge on the top of my mill vice's front jaw (where the end mill hit it) that I call my "experience mark"! Every time I see it I remind myself to listen when experience speaks. Joe has the experience and that is why I have subscribed. Thanks Joe!