have you tried painting your soft plastics with SB Coat (clear) and mica powder? For freshwater/bass fishing lakes, that sardine design is a very convincing Shad profile. 6th Sense Fishing has an ultra realistic soft plastic shad imitation, called the "Panorama Shad", that is currently very popular and hard to keep in stock right now. Quite honestly, it's a boring flat board-like soft plastic version of your design, but with terrific very realistic paint jobs, IMO. I'm trying to find a permanent way of "decorating" my Bucca Burritos (Lg silicone cast shad patterned swimbaits) with irridesscent mica powders. Using a paint on silicone with mica powder as pigment still ends up being opaque. So far, I've vacuum chambered some of my homemade silicone cast soft lures, in ziplock bags, after micro needling them. It only lasts as long as nothing is making any rough contact with it, but seems to maintain better without washing out after several casts. In comparison, for plastisol baits, the SB coatings are probably more durable, but scratching can appear on them under similar conditions. as far as I can tell, for silicone, after a short day, the mica powder just seems to fade away, faintly being absorbed into the silicone. "Spike-It" paints will hold after letting them dry for several minutes, but seems to eventually get completely absorbed through out the body of the silicone. You could apply it to the dorsal area, but after a couple of days the entire thing turns what was once a milky translucent clear into a faded version of whatever color you had applied. It's actually fun reapplying the patterns when I get them back home, so I enjoy it. But, I find myself wondering how many lures I could have painted by now. That usually turns into wondering how many could I "paint" in a day? (it's like using a paint brush to apply make up to a figurine). I might as well start casting and painting up some high quality baits at this point. Pretty sure the commercial plastisol versions are air brushed or silk screened patterns. Thanks ahead of time, and thanks for the inspiration. Tight lines!
I dont have any experiance using mica powder or silicone. I do plan on trying to airbrush some soft plastics soon. I woukd either try and find some kind of paint made for silicon and then clear coat over it or do some kind of base coat that the spike it will stick to and stop it from absorbing into the silicone
@@HandCraftedAngling I'm thinking about trying the PVC paint they use for silkscreening t-shirts, for soft plastics. It has a really quick heat cure too. Expensive though.
Love the clear! Same resin I use. What are you using for your dimensions on your vents? Doing an offset around the bait itself or just doing the vertical and horizontal channels all the way through the mold?
Glad you like it! I have actually been working on redoing my venting strategy. These molds before I was trying to get the vents to work on fdm and resin at the same time but fdm printers can’t produce small enough features for the vents. I’m working on redoing all my old molds. Currently I’m using .01” for the vents in one half of the mold. There isn’t an offset around the mold cavity but I do not vent cavity’s into other cavity’s so there are no longer vent lines going straight up and down. They go up out of the cavity into a deeper channel that exits the mold.
@@HandCraftedAnglingI gotcha so just .01” for the vents all the way through the body of the bait and into a horizontal chamber that exits out the top or bottom of the mold then? Are you using a line and then thin extrude to get your .01? What about for bodies that have legs Or appendages where you’d have to go through the leg and then the body ? Just coming out at an angle until you get to the closest channel to exit it? I’ve always tried the offset around the body method but always wondered if you could skip that step and just go with channels and vents like you’re talking.
I usually just draw a box that’s .01” wide and extrude it down the same length. The channel runs perpendicular to the vent. You can try to put a vent on each appendage but the offset might be easier if there are a lot. It’s not somthing I do often. I will do a community post with a picture when I get a chance.
have you tried painting your soft plastics with SB Coat (clear) and mica powder? For freshwater/bass fishing lakes, that sardine design is a very convincing Shad profile. 6th Sense Fishing has an ultra realistic soft plastic shad imitation, called the "Panorama Shad", that is currently very popular and hard to keep in stock right now. Quite honestly, it's a boring flat board-like soft plastic version of your design, but with terrific very realistic paint jobs, IMO.
I'm trying to find a permanent way of "decorating" my Bucca Burritos (Lg silicone cast shad patterned swimbaits) with irridesscent mica powders. Using a paint on silicone with mica powder as pigment still ends up being opaque. So far, I've vacuum chambered some of my homemade silicone cast soft lures, in ziplock bags, after micro needling them. It only lasts as long as nothing is making any rough contact with it, but seems to maintain better without washing out after several casts. In comparison, for plastisol baits, the SB coatings are probably more durable, but scratching can appear on them under similar conditions.
as far as I can tell, for silicone, after a short day, the mica powder just seems to fade away, faintly being absorbed into the silicone.
"Spike-It" paints will hold after letting them dry for several minutes, but seems to eventually get completely absorbed through out the body of the silicone. You could apply it to the dorsal area, but after a couple of days the entire thing turns what was once a milky translucent clear into a faded version of whatever color you had applied.
It's actually fun reapplying the patterns when I get them back home, so I enjoy it. But, I find myself wondering how many lures I could have painted by now. That usually turns into wondering how many could I "paint" in a day? (it's like using a paint brush to apply make up to a figurine). I might as well start casting and painting up some high quality baits at this point. Pretty sure the commercial plastisol versions are air brushed or silk screened patterns.
Thanks ahead of time, and thanks for the inspiration. Tight lines!
I dont have any experiance using mica powder or silicone. I do plan on trying to airbrush some soft plastics soon. I woukd either try and find some kind of paint made for silicon and then clear coat over it or do some kind of base coat that the spike it will stick to and stop it from absorbing into the silicone
@@HandCraftedAngling thanks 👍
@@HandCraftedAngling I'm thinking about trying the PVC paint they use for silkscreening t-shirts, for soft plastics. It has a really quick heat cure too. Expensive though.
That may work let me know how it goes.
Love the clear! Same resin I use. What are you using for your dimensions on your vents? Doing an offset around the bait itself or just doing the vertical and horizontal channels all the way through the mold?
Glad you like it! I have actually been working on redoing my venting strategy. These molds before I was trying to get the vents to work on fdm and resin at the same time but fdm printers can’t produce small enough features for the vents. I’m working on redoing all my old molds. Currently I’m using .01” for the vents in one half of the mold. There isn’t an offset around the mold cavity but I do not vent cavity’s into other cavity’s so there are no longer vent lines going straight up and down. They go up out of the cavity into a deeper channel that exits the mold.
@@HandCraftedAnglingI gotcha so just .01” for the vents all the way through the body of the bait and into a horizontal chamber that exits out the top or bottom of the mold then? Are you using a line and then thin extrude to get your .01? What about for bodies that have legs Or appendages where you’d have to go through the leg and then the body ? Just coming out at an angle until you get to the closest channel to exit it? I’ve always tried the offset around the body method but always wondered if you could skip that step and just go with channels and vents like you’re talking.
I usually just draw a box that’s .01” wide and extrude it down the same length. The channel runs perpendicular to the vent. You can try to put a vent on each appendage but the offset might be easier if there are a lot. It’s not somthing I do often. I will do a community post with a picture when I get a chance.
what size screws did you use to seal it?
1/4" bolts with wingnuts
Hola como se llama el producto que le hechas donde lo consigues??
Its not for sale you cannot buy it. Its a free file on the computer meant to be 3d printed.
@@HandCraftedAngling me refiero al plástico rosa que le vierte como se llama?
Hi, what kind of resin did you use ?
I am using siraya tech sculpt clear. The grey will work just as well. www.amazon.com/Sculpt-Clear-1kg-Resolution-Resistance/dp/B08GJTGPYQ
@@HandCraftedAngling Thanks, you did a good job with the rubber baits.
@@Chc_Fishing_Lures Glad you like it! There's more on the way.