Well done. Phrozen TR250 also holds up well with heat and seems to perform better than the specified temperature they state on their website. I've shot multiple lures so far without issues, but time will tell!
As a jeweler, I'm considering using something like a, Shooting Star, melting pot, modifying the pot with a spring-loaded nozzle at the bottom and then using compressed air as the injection system. This is the way we inject wax into rubber molds for mass production. I'll have to experiment with air pressure and install several safety systems due to the hot plastic inside the device. That being said, It might be possible to run water through the resin molds with a pump to keep the mold cool enough for more rapid injection. This resin is just what I've been looking for to handle the soft plastic high temp. If you see any potential problems with my idea, let me know what you think. Otherwise, I'll keep you informed on my success (or failure). I'm a CAD jewelry designer, so creating unique soft plastics should be right up my alley. Even if the injection system doesn't work, I should be able to use traditional injectors for my two-part molds. Hope this works.
Great idea! The main issue I see is most resins are hydroscopic aka the absorb water and over time break down if they continue to get wet. I have no idea so long it would last but its cheap to try! Would love to hear your results!
@@WMBayouLures That's great information. At work, I wash my resin models in 99 percent alcohol and never in water. UV cure and then invest and cast. The resin I use leaves no ash behind and my jewelry castings are pretty much perfect, like wax models. I think the solution, rather than water cooling the molds, would be to make several resin molds, inject, and then by the time I got back to the first one to open it, it would be cooled off more. No down time waiting for the molds to cool since I would be injecting 3 or 4 molds. Because like you say, resin molds are not that expensive to make. I'm considering an Elagoo Saturn ultra with the high temp resin you recommend. hopefully, it won't take long to play with the settings and make it work. I will keep you updated.
Siraya Tech Sculpt HDT is 160c or 320f, not in the 380s. (Look at that, the point where Fahrenheit is exactly double Celsius😋) That being said, with enough perimeter layers and infill, HDT isn’t a concern as much as melting temp. If you have the capability, I recommend using a 3D print to make your void for an aluminum cast
Yes that is correct. I print each side solid at 15mm and have never experienced any deflection. I am not sure what the thickness of the material they use when determining HDT for this material.
thats the issue i found out about, printed molds don't disipate heat as well as alluminum molds, I did the dummy thing and seperated my 3d printed mold apart as if it was a alluminum mold, and it was stuck together but split the plastic apart and it was still hot in the middle of the "Spur". so guess i gotta let em rest for a long while
Yep, which is why resin molds are not great for any kind of volume work. Perfect for prototypes, making a few baits for yourself type work but once you want to make a bunch of baits you then need a bunch of molds, or get an aluminum mold made.
Hi, I’ve recently stumbled upon your page. And currently doing a fishing lure mold at the moment. After a couple resin prints, i cant seem to make my mold fairly straight. Alot of sagging and warping here and there. If i may ask, what the best orientation on the slicer for these kind of mold to avoid it?
Hey welcome aboard! I outline if all in this video - ruclips.net/video/BYA5DZlbCh4/видео.htmlsi=hEedr3LZeJz72RFw&t=822 That link will take you directly to the mold printing part.
This is pretty cool how have these molds held up? I’ve got some CAD designed lures, I just haven’t had a chance to have produced. This could be a good option. 🤔
Why aren't LURE COMPANIES making similar lures that can be made? AIRFIX Lures!!! The buyer can choose what sort of lure, size, weights, glide baits, paint templates.... Etc etc.
Check out this video on how is solved the mat finish issue. I have them shining like aluminum molds Quest For Shiny Lures - Part 2 Flawless Victory! - ruclips.net/video/qi76bNucjDc/видео.html
Very cool! I've been making 3D printed bait molds ever since I found sthone on RUclips, he has made several 3D printed molds on his channel and even some really cool, custom printed crank baits. You should check out some of his work.
I have been working in blender doing sculpture. Not sure how the models I have done will work as a 3d need a little more research. Is anyone else doing this? I could use a support group.
er can produce files for 3D printing for sure but I am not sure it can easily produce the molds. I have only dabbled in Blender so I am far from an expert but from the videos I have watched it is not ideal. When I have people send me files from blender the big issue I see if that the scale is not set correctly. From a practical standpoint blender is not parametric out of the box making tweaking fairly imprecise. I love blender and always work to find a way to get the best of both tools (Fusion 360 and Blender). I think we are getting pretty close to the day where they are going to work pretty well together, mainly due to Fusion 360s improved mesh handling. Oh and I am working on a support group, just not sure what platform to put it on yet....
@@WMBayouLures here is the deal most filments cant high temps the one can do is costly but most people justuse special resin to do so but i am not sure that would be am to work for what we want so i am doing some deeper look and trying to find out what filments can be use that wont worp and can wistand the heat of the plastol what is the temps do you warmit at since i am new to the soft baits game and when i find out i will let you know what to look for
Awesome video. Have you ever thought about making molds and selling them. I currently make molds from silicone but looking for someone to 3D print me some two piece molds just like this. If you told me what program was compatible with your printer I could do the design work for my specific bait and forward it. If it’s anything you’ve ever considered let me know we can exchange email/cell number.
Thanks, I have considered selling molds, my only hesitation is that while these produce a good bait, they are not exactly user friendly and generally need a lot of clamping. I have printed some for people though. Feel free to reach out and we can discuss the details. bill@gulfstreamoutdoors.com
Hi Bill, Can you Advise on how this stuff would go injecting into a Resin Mold please as i want to use this method for my lure, would it warp a 3d resin mold by the injection ruclips.net/video/bYHKDd06s-s/видео.htmlfeature=shared ????
I have not found a way to inject resin into a resin mold yet. Every time I try it fuses together. I think silicone mold is the right way to got for resin lures. I have a process for 3D printing mold masters that I will be releasing as soon as I have the process all nailed down
If you need to produce large volumes of lures then it probably does but then if you need to produce large volumes of lures, simply print more molds. My large multi-cavity molds cost roughly $15 in materials to print. I can print a ton of them for the same cost as an off the shelf aluminum mold and a crap ton for the same cost as a single custom aluminum mold.
![FendiDa Rappa - Clock Dat ft. Shamar Marco [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3NBU8KHdxYY/mqdefault.jpg)
Those look great I can’t wait to start my journey doing 3D lure printing
Well done. Phrozen TR250 also holds up well with heat and seems to perform better than the specified temperature they state on their website. I've shot multiple lures so far without issues, but time will tell!
Awesome I will have to test it out. Although once I get the Siraya Sculpt dialed in I am not sure I will want to mess around dialing in another! 😂
As a jeweler, I'm considering using something like a, Shooting Star, melting pot, modifying the pot with a spring-loaded nozzle at the bottom and then using compressed air as the injection system. This is the way we inject wax into rubber molds for mass production. I'll have to experiment with air pressure and install several safety systems due to the hot plastic inside the device. That being said, It might be possible to run water through the resin molds with a pump to keep the mold cool enough for more rapid injection. This resin is just what I've been looking for to handle the soft plastic high temp. If you see any potential problems with my idea, let me know what you think. Otherwise, I'll keep you informed on my success (or failure). I'm a CAD jewelry designer, so creating unique soft plastics should be right up my alley. Even if the injection system doesn't work, I should be able to use traditional injectors for my two-part molds. Hope this works.
Great idea! The main issue I see is most resins are hydroscopic aka the absorb water and over time break down if they continue to get wet. I have no idea so long it would last but its cheap to try! Would love to hear your results!
@@WMBayouLures That's great information. At work, I wash my resin models in 99 percent alcohol and never in water. UV cure and then invest and cast. The resin I use leaves no ash behind and my jewelry castings are pretty much perfect, like wax models. I think the solution, rather than water cooling the molds, would be to make several resin molds, inject, and then by the time I got back to the first one to open it, it would be cooled off more. No down time waiting for the molds to cool since I would be injecting 3 or 4 molds. Because like you say, resin molds are not that expensive to make. I'm considering an Elagoo Saturn ultra with the high temp resin you recommend. hopefully, it won't take long to play with the settings and make it work. I will keep you updated.
I use 2 Saturn 3 Ultras currently and download the Chitubox settings file from Siraya Tech website and it worked great right out of the box.
Great job. Thats totally awesome.
Thanks!
Siraya Tech Sculpt HDT is 160c or 320f, not in the 380s. (Look at that, the point where Fahrenheit is exactly double Celsius😋) That being said, with enough perimeter layers and infill, HDT isn’t a concern as much as melting temp. If you have the capability, I recommend using a 3D print to make your void for an aluminum cast
Yes that is correct. I print each side solid at 15mm and have never experienced any deflection. I am not sure what the thickness of the material they use when determining HDT for this material.
Awesome!! I’ll take a dozen
Only trading for Dungeness😂😂😂😂
Thank you!!!
Really cool! Great job explaining everything
Thanks!
thats the issue i found out about, printed molds don't disipate heat as well as alluminum molds, I did the dummy thing and seperated my 3d printed mold apart as if it was a alluminum mold, and it was stuck together but split the plastic apart and it was still hot in the middle of the "Spur". so guess i gotta let em rest for a long while
Yep, which is why resin molds are not great for any kind of volume work. Perfect for prototypes, making a few baits for yourself type work but once you want to make a bunch of baits you then need a bunch of molds, or get an aluminum mold made.
Dangit, now I need a resin printer to go with my FDM printers...
LOL I just made a video on this - ruclips.net/video/N5CSIYfpQJQ/видео.html
I'm curious if there is a liquid resin that has a shiny finish that will make the lures shinny ?
Solved that problem already
Quest For Shiny Lures - Part 2 Flawless Victory!
ruclips.net/video/qi76bNucjDc/видео.html
@@WMBayouLures I'll take a look !
Hi, I’ve recently stumbled upon your page. And currently doing a fishing lure mold at the moment. After a couple resin prints, i cant seem to make my mold fairly straight. Alot of sagging and warping here and there. If i may ask, what the best orientation on the slicer for these kind of mold to avoid it?
Hey welcome aboard! I outline if all in this video - ruclips.net/video/BYA5DZlbCh4/видео.htmlsi=hEedr3LZeJz72RFw&t=822 That link will take you directly to the mold printing part.
@@WMBayouLures This is exactly what I'm looking for! Thank you so much!
This is pretty cool how have these molds held up? I’ve got some CAD designed lures, I just haven’t had a chance to have produced. This could be a good option. 🤔
Only about 10 pours so far. No sign of anything bad on the molds.
Nice! I just started down this road as well with my FDM printer. Been designing a few of these in Fusion360.
Great minds think alike! Good to see you again man!
great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice video bro
Thanks man 🤘
Good job.. do you sell the open pour molds? If so I am interested
Why aren't LURE COMPANIES making similar lures that can be made? AIRFIX Lures!!! The buyer can choose what sort of lure, size, weights, glide baits, paint templates.... Etc etc.
If you reuse old plastic worms, you don't have to take it all the way to 350
Yep anytime you reheat it doesn’t need to hit 350 again…
Hi, i like 3d printed mold for mainly for creating my prototype, don’t you think it much more mat finish in a 3d printed mold than aluminium mold
Check out this video on how is solved the mat finish issue. I have them shining like aluminum molds Quest For Shiny Lures - Part 2 Flawless Victory! - ruclips.net/video/qi76bNucjDc/видео.html
Wow with sculpt ? What settings did you for the siraya tech sculpt ?
Yep sculpt can handle the heat of the plastic. On my Saturn it is 50s for the base and 7s per layer
Very cool! I've been making 3D printed bait molds ever since I found sthone on RUclips, he has made several 3D printed molds on his channel and even some really cool, custom printed crank baits. You should check out some of his work.
Thats awesome! Sthone is a legend, love watching his stuff! He just needs to get a resin printer! 😄😉
I have been working in blender doing sculpture. Not sure how the models I have done will work as a 3d need a little more research. Is anyone else doing this? I could use a support group.
er can produce files for 3D printing for sure but I am not sure it can easily produce the molds. I have only dabbled in Blender so I am far from an expert but from the videos I have watched it is not ideal. When I have people send me files from blender the big issue I see if that the scale is not set correctly. From a practical standpoint blender is not parametric out of the box making tweaking fairly imprecise. I love blender and always work to find a way to get the best of both tools (Fusion 360 and Blender). I think we are getting pretty close to the day where they are going to work pretty well together, mainly due to Fusion 360s improved mesh handling.
Oh and I am working on a support group, just not sure what platform to put it on yet....
Where is the bullets ?
I have not cast any lead yet but will get to it for sure!
@@WMBayouLures
would not be functional without bullets. the design of the mold needs to be changed. I'm sure you can.
i Call you out and there is filments that will not worpe or bend due to heat
350F/176C? Please post links I would love to try them out!
@@WMBayouLures what make andd modle of printer you have because it will play a roll in what filment you can use
@@AndrewMurphy8383 FDM I have a P1P
@@WMBayouLures here is the deal most filments cant high temps the one can do is costly but most people justuse special resin to do so but i am not sure that would be am to work for what we want so i am doing some deeper look and trying to find out what filments can be use that wont worp and can wistand the heat of the plastol what is the temps do you warmit at since i am new to the soft baits game and when i find out i will let you know what to look for
Bad idea shaking platisol. Makes too many bubbles.
For sure man! I try to remember that but often forget.
thingiverse has fishing lure molds
Yep most of the ones I have seen are for open pour or for pouring resin lures, I have not seen many for plastisol injection though...
Awesome video. Have you ever thought about making molds and selling them. I currently make molds from silicone but looking for someone to 3D print me some two piece molds just like this. If you told me what program was compatible with your printer I could do the design work for my specific bait and forward it. If it’s anything you’ve ever considered let me know we can exchange email/cell number.
Thanks, I have considered selling molds, my only hesitation is that while these produce a good bait, they are not exactly user friendly and generally need a lot of clamping. I have printed some for people though. Feel free to reach out and we can discuss the details. bill@gulfstreamoutdoors.com
@@WMBayouLures sent an email, thanks
Hi Bill, Can you Advise on how this stuff would go injecting into a Resin Mold please as i want to use this method for my lure, would it warp a 3d resin mold by the injection ruclips.net/video/bYHKDd06s-s/видео.htmlfeature=shared ????
I have not found a way to inject resin into a resin mold yet. Every time I try it fuses together. I think silicone mold is the right way to got for resin lures. I have a process for 3D printing mold masters that I will be releasing as soon as I have the process all nailed down
Takes way too long to cool down takes forever
If you need to produce large volumes of lures then it probably does but then if you need to produce large volumes of lures, simply print more molds. My large multi-cavity molds cost roughly $15 in materials to print. I can print a ton of them for the same cost as an off the shelf aluminum mold and a crap ton for the same cost as a single custom aluminum mold.
Your video is very dark ....
Nm it was a me problem . RUclips updated and changed my settings lol sorry