I'm pretty sure with gen 5s that when you go to all ls7 lifters you have to replace the camshaft. I have a buddy the works for one of the major performance engineering companies and he said the stock cam with ls7 lifters won't let the valves close 100% on the dod cylinders.
When you go back to do the Cam job your going to have to pull the engine again. There's not enough room to get the cam gear on or off with the oil pump on and in order to remove the oil pump you need to drop the oil pan. As you know these are RTV sealed so dropping the pan and reinstalling with RTV while in the truck is damn near impossible. I'm in the middle of a Cam job on an L83 as we speak and the motor had to come out of the truck. There was no way around it if you want it done right.
@@GoatRopeGarage also just to follow up on my original comment it looks like you can get the timing gear off by just loosening the oil pump bolts and working the chain off link by link. It's a huge PITA but doable with the engine installed. Just thought I'd share for future reference if you decide to swap the Cam again later once the engine is installed. Just make sure you use the oil pump alignment tool.
@@ChrisVaughnTech If you don't loosen the bolts all the way out you don't need the alignment tool. Once you loosen the bolts the the oil pump can only side forward maybe 1/4" before it hits the oil pan. But that's just enough wiggle room to get the timing chain off.
I called it!!! Block is good. Common on these to trash ring lands with boost and the bores some how usually come out unharmed. I do recommend 5w30 gibbs break in oil and switch to 5w30 gibbs di oil. I have 3 gen v motors out there running great with it.
So my sister was just told she needs a new engine in her 2015 suburban. They say they had the head machines at the machine shop. Then they put blue devil and said it didn’t work so they’re a defiantly a crack so she needs a new engine. Assuming the crack is in the block? Does this sound fishy to you?? They never said they magnafluxed the head to check for cracks 🤔🤔 do you think the block of an L83 would crack easily?? They said after they machined the head that it leaked worse in cylinder six than it did before. Any input would help me out. Thanks if you have time
Check the ring gap on the stock rings. Had a bone stock L86 in a 2015 Silverado bust all 8 ring lands. Ring gaps ranged from .010 to .018 o. Top and 2nd rings
I figured either a cracked ringland or head gasket considering you blew the rear main seal out. Im still curious as to what made the computer go nuts on you...
If funding is the issue on the cam maybe we can get some follower supported sponsorship and actually give a little back on all the free and great information that we’ve got from the channel... there’s enough of us I think we could get it done
What do you target lambda wise for boost. My alcohol %is 77% so I'm targeting 10.4 afr for my 1.0 lambda. I'm hearing so may mixed things from .65 to .85 lambda
Rings got too hot and the ends touched which broke the lands. Common on boosted engines. Just open the the top ring gap an extra thou per inch of bore.
I could really use your vast knowledge on ecms. I have an 06 single cab silverado with 4.8. ECM serv no. 28042802 ECM crapped out and trying to replace is the local salvage yards are only showing ECMs beginning in 125. I purchased one Serv NO. 12589462 because they said it will work but it didn’t. I can’t find much information on it and could use your help.
Richard Holdener just announced that he is going to be put affordable truck cams on the market soon, maybe he will donate one to support the channel and get some feedback on the cam. Can't wait to seem the Silverado back together. ABT.
when i come across an allen that big, i take a bolt thats the same size head, weld a nut to it and use a regular socket with it and get the allen head bolt out.
honestly tearing into the engines and rebuilding is fun part that's why I just had you tune my car cuz I'm not good with that it's not as fun as building it
It hasn't been nearly as bad as I had thought. Just knocked out the springs, seals and retainers on the heads, nice after work project. Tomorrow is checking the rod bearing clearance and possibly installing them. Just waiting on parts. Would love to be installing it this weekend but I have a feeling the cam and long tubes won't be here yet. Thanks for your videos!
Are you assuming the mains are good or have you checked. I can’t see any reason not to check and know what kind of shape there in. I would hate to find out later, knowing I could have done something when I was there
I just completed my L83 swap and it won’t start I’m so pissed!!!! Custom reworked harness and paid for the ecm to be flashed and it wasn’t done right obviously so I had no way of telling other then purchasing and MPVI2 another $350 and it’s still not wanting to start after having someone take the stock tune out. I’m TSP Stage3 cammed. It will fire up on starting fluid though is what’s crazy and obviously means no gas but I don’t know what to do now other then drop it off at a shop but I don’t have money for and open $125hr bill...... any suggestions?
Hey GRG. I won’t say your name, lol, but ya. I’ve been taking your advice from the hptuner sessions you’ve made for us and I’ve gone to the hptuner forum. I read about the ve table and maf. If I got this right the maf, guesses what has happened if there is a change from the steady state of flow. The ve table then looks up a map to calculate the difference and looks for a map that’s similar that tells it what has happened then it reads the tps and it takes off like a bat outa hell if the it has had a mass of air rammed into it. ( going wot)Am I right so far?? The afr works off commanded setting but the ve table has to match the command in the calculation 🧮 or it start to pull timing and or run rich to match it. Kinda backwards but it’s saving the motor. . Woooo. Lots to digest in the 20 minutes of material I read. I think I’ve got it all straight in my head. Maybe.
I have a l83 i swaer bru im waiting for AFM to just fail, Chevy engineers are terrible the only reason they are still on a pushrod design its bc its cheap and easy to manufacture. SMH
I'm pretty sure with gen 5s that when you go to all ls7 lifters you have to replace the camshaft. I have a buddy the works for one of the major performance engineering companies and he said the stock cam with ls7 lifters won't let the valves close 100% on the dod cylinders.
When you go back to do the Cam job your going to have to pull the engine again. There's not enough room to get the cam gear on or off with the oil pump on and in order to remove the oil pump you need to drop the oil pan. As you know these are RTV sealed so dropping the pan and reinstalling with RTV while in the truck is damn near impossible. I'm in the middle of a Cam job on an L83 as we speak and the motor had to come out of the truck. There was no way around it if you want it done right.
Also you gotta change the Cam either way if your changing the lifters. The DOD/AFM CAM will not work.
Yep, cam is ordered
@@GoatRopeGarage also just to follow up on my original comment it looks like you can get the timing gear off by just loosening the oil pump bolts and working the chain off link by link. It's a huge PITA but doable with the engine installed. Just thought I'd share for future reference if you decide to swap the Cam again later once the engine is installed. Just make sure you use the oil pump alignment tool.
Thanks, I appreciate the info!
@@ChrisVaughnTech If you don't loosen the bolts all the way out you don't need the alignment tool. Once you loosen the bolts the the oil pump can only side forward maybe 1/4" before it hits the oil pan. But that's just enough wiggle room to get the timing chain off.
Got lucky only the ring lands are shot.
Might as well do an AFM delete while you're at it.
I called it!!! Block is good. Common on these to trash ring lands with boost and the bores some how usually come out unharmed. I do recommend 5w30 gibbs break in oil and switch to 5w30 gibbs di oil. I have 3 gen v motors out there running great with it.
Those 3/8 M12 ratchets are a life saver!
Best money I've spent
Mine was fine except for an .008 1 inch wide groove on the outside on the #7 cylinder and two bad cam lobes and a few lifters.
Nice to see some engine work on this channel.
So my sister was just told she needs a new engine in her 2015 suburban. They say they had the head machines at the machine shop. Then they put blue devil and said it didn’t work so they’re a defiantly a crack so she needs a new engine. Assuming the crack is in the block? Does this sound fishy to you?? They never said they magnafluxed the head to check for cracks 🤔🤔 do you think the block of an L83 would crack easily?? They said after they machined the head that it leaked worse in cylinder six than it did before. Any input would help me out. Thanks if you have time
Check the ring gap on the stock rings. Had a bone stock L86 in a 2015 Silverado bust all 8 ring lands. Ring gaps ranged from .010 to .018 o. Top and 2nd rings
I figured either a cracked ringland or head gasket considering you blew the rear main seal out. Im still curious as to what made the computer go nuts on you...
Glad to see it wasn’t any major damage!!!
If funding is the issue on the cam maybe we can get some follower supported sponsorship and actually give a little back on all the free and great information that we’ve got from the channel... there’s enough of us I think we could get it done
I’m down
Put main bearings in while you have it apart. No telling what kind of metal went through the oil.
Just swapped my 2015 Silverado. I took out the fans and removed the upper part of the rad support, it just bolts in and creates some extra room.
What do you target lambda wise for boost. My alcohol %is 77% so I'm targeting 10.4 afr for my 1.0 lambda. I'm hearing so may mixed things from .65 to .85 lambda
It is a 13mm Allen. I can only find it from matco or snap on. $27 per socket. Just bought one for work.
Okay, good to know, the 1/2 fit great and is way cheaper
Its called a H13 socket. $11 on amazon. Put in 1/2" drive in the search or you'll get a bunch of headlight plugs.
Rings got too hot and the ends touched which broke the lands. Common on boosted engines. Just open the the top ring gap an extra thou per inch of bore.
I could really use your vast knowledge on ecms. I have an 06 single cab silverado with 4.8. ECM serv no. 28042802
ECM crapped out and trying to replace is the local salvage yards are only showing ECMs beginning in 125.
I purchased one Serv NO. 12589462 because they said it will work but it didn’t. I can’t find much information on it and could use your help.
was the Engine LOW COMPRESSION ? ??
what were you Running Turbo or Supercharged with STOCK Bottom End ?
Nope, running 16 psi on a SBE. Lowered the compression and running around 25 now.
@@GoatRopeGarage how about the Transmission ? 6L80 ?
You got a big break. All can be done fairly economical, except the labor and pain of it all. Stay safe brother
Yep, should be going back in the truck next week!
Love this channels content.very educational especially in running department. 👍thx
Richard Holdener just announced that he is going to be put affordable truck cams on the market soon, maybe he will donate one to support the channel and get some feedback on the cam. Can't wait to seem the Silverado back together. ABT.
you want toget rid for the rods if thay fit a ls1 5.7 crank
Whats the theory behind the oil in the spark plug threads??
I think you were not running enough ring gap for the boost for it to crack all the ring lands
when i come across an allen that big, i take a bolt thats the same size head, weld a nut to it and use a regular socket with it and get the allen head bolt out.
Hey buddy I would like to purchase a tune for a 2015 chevy tahoe with a 76 mm turbo
Brother what is that tune at the beginning, I know it from somewhere but cant remember
don't you have to change the cam when getting rid of the dod lifters? was told it was necessary but im on a 4th gen motor.
Yep, though I'm interested to mic the old cam and see why. New cam is on the way
Did you go with the earls head bolts...
If so I've heard less than positive reviews on them
ARP
Not enough ring gap when adding boost, at .035 is needed
Hope you changed the lifters while you had it all apart. That’s what failed on mine
Everything besides the crank was replaced
@@GoatRopeGarage I was 5000 miles out of warranty and learned the gm lifters were shit. Needles to say it tore up my camshaft.
honestly tearing into the engines and rebuilding is fun part that's why I just had you tune my car cuz I'm not good with that it's not as fun as building it
It hasn't been nearly as bad as I had thought. Just knocked out the springs, seals and retainers on the heads, nice after work project. Tomorrow is checking the rod bearing clearance and possibly installing them. Just waiting on parts. Would love to be installing it this weekend but I have a feeling the cam and long tubes won't be here yet. Thanks for your videos!
Are you assuming the mains are good or have you checked. I can’t see any reason not to check and know what kind of shape there in. I would hate to find out later, knowing I could have done something when I was there
Crank play is within spec, figured no reason to reinvent the wheel if it was fine before
Another great video. Thanks!
I just completed my L83 swap and it won’t start I’m so pissed!!!! Custom reworked harness and paid for the ecm to be flashed and it wasn’t done right obviously so I had no way of telling other then purchasing and MPVI2 another $350 and it’s still not wanting to start after having someone take the stock tune out. I’m TSP Stage3 cammed. It will fire up on starting fluid though is what’s crazy and obviously means no gas but I don’t know what to do now other then drop it off at a shop but I don’t have money for and open $125hr bill...... any suggestions?
Check your high pressure fuel pressure at crank, make sure you're making over 800 psi
@@GoatRopeGarage rail pressure is 2,100 or so
So you have good pressure, can you smell fuel?
@@GoatRopeGarage no not at all... but if I hit it with starter fluid it fires up and dies after it burns off of course
@@J2A61 throw more fuel at it, if you can't smell it you're lean
Welcome to gen 5 world
Hey GRG. I won’t say your name, lol, but ya. I’ve been taking your advice from the hptuner sessions you’ve made for us and I’ve gone to the hptuner forum. I read about the ve table and maf. If I got this right the maf, guesses what has happened if there is a change from the steady state of flow. The ve table then looks up a map to calculate the difference and looks for a map that’s similar that tells it what has happened then it reads the tps and it takes off like a bat outa hell if the it has had a mass of air rammed into it. ( going wot)Am I right so far?? The afr works off commanded setting but the ve table has to match the command in the calculation 🧮 or it start to pull timing and or run rich to match it. Kinda backwards but it’s saving the motor. . Woooo. Lots to digest in the 20 minutes of material I read. I think I’ve got it all straight in my head. Maybe.
13mm1/2inch …..found this out 2 weeks ago after wrenching for 20yrs 😅😅
Even better if it's a six point, less slop
How many time have done this before ?
interested on how you do the vacuum pump delete.
Just two small plugs thread into the holes that are left behind the pump
How much gap do you plan on running on the rings?
A lot, lmao
Just sub’d…..by the way in a Ford guy 102% no Chevys aloud in my garage lol But I like your videos
All are welcome!
Has Chevy fixed the 5.3 lifter/rod issues for the 2022’s?
You’re going to have to change the cam either way the afm lobes are not the same as standard lobes
Didn't think about that, good looking out
I have a l83 i swaer bru im waiting for AFM to just fail, Chevy engineers are terrible the only reason they are still on a pushrod design its bc its cheap and easy to manufacture. SMH
Who makes that LT craddle?
Can't remember, found it on eBay
Number seven seems to have the most lifter failure rate that's what I'm reading I believe it runs the hottest
I'd stay far away from the LS7 lifters. I'm on my second set and tick tick tick... Smh
Went with morels
@@GoatRopeGarage great. I'm going with Johnson 2210R's whenever I have to pull the cam in my G8...
Somebody send the man an engine stand 😁
Can't wait to see some videos of it back together ripping up the track. Keep up the great content!
Just ordered a boost gauge that goes over 30, let's have some fun
Can say I’ve ever seen anyone smell their spark plugs.
I do...
Me too
Want to sale them rods ?
Pulling for you on number 5 man! Let's see lol
Shit... lol Oh well get cha an upgraded set! You going forged??
Disregard. I gotcha
Dr Kyle
It’s an engine, not a “ motor”, motors run on electricity........carry on.