Good evening Marty, ding ding, ding, give this man a cigar, that's what I'm talking about. I use a wet float or brush a damp bathroom towel works just as well. To hell with sanding. Beautiful and simplified comment, my friend. Save your lungs from the dust; who knows, you might need them someday.
Hey Mario, I'd google that info, as the guy I know has his warehouse in Marin, that's a 8 hour drive from you guys. no doubt there are ten companies in the Los Angeles area.
You make my plastering abilities improve immensely. And also better understand some of the guys I have to employ from time to time. A great teacher. Thanks. Nice family!
Thanks for your knowledge Kirk! It’s so true all the different muds, sometimes the guys want 20 minuet, other times they want regular mud. We’ve used it all, but the real trick is the expertise to know what you need for what situation. Thank you guys for your videos! Really appreciate them!
Evening Hotel Renovators, exzackory, the skill part takes some years to learn, the material knowledge, now that takes some time in. Thank you for the comment.😉
Morning Al, "Ask and ye shall receive" type in, "interior plastering," we have at least 50 on the subject of interior plastering. Some are using structo-lite base coats and or lime plasters and every interior material produced. You name it, we have applied it.😉
Evening Bill, I've used the 5-minute mud, but for patches this size, it would not be productive, as would be set with my rambling before I can use it.😉
you can add an accelerator to the product, available from drywall suppliers or add some table salt/plaster of paris. It will turn 90 minute setting mud into 20 minutes easy, if you need to be in and out quickly. The 5 minute is not worth my time for clean up and 20 minutes is the minimum I use. Rather mix a larger batch of 20 say and throw some away then have to spend 10 minutes scraping tools covered in hardened product and then have to mix more anyways. With longer times I can clean up the semi-wet mud with a bucket and sponge and by that time I am ready for another round as the product has set up on the wall.
I’m working through my moms 1950 build old plaster with button board house, fixing cracks etc. Fortunately with my skill level the plaster is heavily textured so I get it reasonably smooth and then texture it. Watching your vids a few weeks ago for tips you mentioned your pool and using tools you are comfortable with. The next time I was working I was frustrated with mixing small batches (40 minute easy sand) in a bucket and decided next time to try something different. Went to a thrift store, bought a cheap kitchen mixer and a clear glass mixing bowl-and a big serving spoon. I now mix it with tools I’m familiar with-lol. Still use a hawk, etc for the rest but it’s easier for me to get the texture I want. The glass bowl is also super easy to hose off and clean-if I don’t break it some day! Now I wish I could find a button board to repair where my dad cut vents in the wall…I have a plan on how to do it but would be so much easier if I could find a bit of button board!! Thanks again Kirk-enjoy your vids and have used them a lot!
Good morning Dober Girl. LOL, I have mixed many times with just my gloved hand when it's a small patch and mixed on my hawk with my trowel. You don't need button board with the holes in it, any solid board or sheetrock will work, with the 1950s with the bottom board the idea was the plaster mushroomed through the holes and held it firmly in place, just like it does mushrooming through the top of our metal lath. However, if you use any sheetrock, just apply a bonding agent on the surface, such as quikrete sold at HD for about ten bucks. We use Larson's "plaster weld" as they have it at "Westside building materials," that a professional plastering yard, where we buy all of our materials. However, HD and lowes do sell the white bonding agent called, "quikrete," it's just as good.😉
As always great show, this is very helpful as a painter this knowledge will always come in handy. As for the lime mix, we call here calcamite, paint as you said water reactivated it so any situation with this type or mix of paint it's always recommended to use an oil based primer designed for this. Before repatching and painting otherwise everything drops from the walls and ceiling. Great job keep it up.
@Kirk Giordano plastering Inc. Their is also a product from Benjamin Moore which is a oil based product specifically for calcamite surfaces. To be used before patching and painting. Keep up the good work. Always enjoy watching your videos. Thanks Robert.
Recently I’ve started doing more drywall repair (haven’t tried stucco yet) and quick setting mud is absolutely great….. You said over mixing causes faster setting, yeah? With 5 minute powder I mix it fast on a board (like pasta dough) with minimal water and minimal mixing and get a few minutes beyond 5…. Wonder if that’s why? Wet sanding with a sponge or similar has finally got my work nearly dust free and glass smooth. Amazing to me that plaster videos help my drywall work more than drywall videos 😅 cheers man!!
I just want to make a recommendation for any homeowners out there who have never done this before. Any of the compounds you have to mix yourself, not only do they dry quicker but they also dry much much much harder! Trust me they are much harder to sand smooth edges, you almost can’t sand them. I recommend using these quick setting/harder compounds for your first or second coat but make sure your edges are feathered and very clean then use a topcoat/bucket mud for your final coat or two because it’s much much much easier to sand and feather the edges! Great video. 🇺🇸 💪🏻 👊🏻 🤙🏼
Morning Chris, my fellow spread. I have not heard of "harder joint compounds" they are all the same in strength, the set times are all that's different. As a rule, you folks who do this and can't get your edges perfectly, no worries, finish your work, mix some more of the same joint compound you started with, and now you have the same amount of time to skim over any areas you're not happy with. Good advice, Chris, but TMI, the wording will add confusion to the inexperienced person's task. We got to keep it simple. Thanks for the tip.🤔
@@StuccoPlastering wow, I need to slow down sometimes and check that speech text before I press the send button. I fixed most of it. Yes, I promise you the fast setting drywall mud is harder and more dense then a premixed multi-purpose topcoat. I actually think it says easy sand on the label. I always use this for a final coat in the field area. Maybe it’s just me. 🇺🇸 💪🏻 👊🏻 🤙🏼
Oh, I see, said the blind man, you are correctomundo. Fast is also called drywall, or sheetrock joint compound that I believe is harder than all tapping muds. Perhaps the accelerators are why? Surely, there is an engineer to explain why this is?😉 I guess I could "google it," but the interest is not there. Thanks for the interesting comment.
@@StuccoPlastering Durabond is considered a harder setting compound for plaster repairs/base coats. You can wet sand it or dry sand with 40/60 Grit to rough up the surface for a skim coat. But you'll never get a nice finish with that product alone. I believe that is has more cement based material than the regular "Sheetrock" / "sandable" products but I'm only a DIY'er/handyman so no idea on the specifics. My method for patching/repairs is Durbond to fill/tape. Sheetrock to coat and/or joint compound to skim. Depending on the amount of work dictates the setting time of which product I use.
the ready mix drywall compound has "PVA" glue in it. If you need to strengthen a powered mix you can add some regular PVA glue to the water before mixing, about 1 to 10 ratio or higher is fine. Makes it super sticky and good for bonding over painted surfaces if you cannot find a bonding agent. Not as good as "Weldbond", etc but better than nothing.
I usually tape and bed and come back the next day to finish with purple lid and wetter is better on finish and a fast pull to get the bubbles out . I hate seeing pinholes . Good job bro . God Bless .
Howdy Hungry Bird Dude, Take notes, DIYers. This is perfect for most who watch what we do. To use the materials, we're using takes a year or so of practice in getting to know our friend, Mr. joint compound. On a wall, folks, it's so much easier as you don't have to consider gravity.😉
High Kirk very informative video dawn planty of patching up in my day another great way to fill those gaps in his with expanding foam then fill with jointing compound I would like to see you do a video with expanding foam hope your family is all well
I did this recently along a brick fireplace ( painted) to ceiling joint where the new ceiling drywall left a gap along the uneven edges of the brick, which were not the flat type.
Morning Chris, I have used expanding foam a few times but for exteriors such as where chimneys meet stucco walls, in the holes of the new pipes, where it will do more damage to break out properly, but foam in this instance would not work.😉
Evening, my friend. Out of the 900 videos we have online, there are at least 50 or more in interior plastering. Using every type of interior plaster the world has invented or, more accurately, discovered.🤔
Wow Kirk and Jay, this is the next project on my honey do list. Great video! You pretty much answered all the questions I had. 1) Can I use 20 minute gypsum mud to repair the cracks in my 80 year old plaster ceilings? 2) What bonding agent should I use? 3) How should I feather the edges on my repair section? I would have really liked to see how Jay manages the dust on the tear out phase. For me, keeping all that fine dust from going throughout the house is still the biggest challenge when doing this kind of work. Especially when you or the client is living in the home during the job. Kirk Giordano Plastering, you guys are the best!
Morning Doug, Jason is meticulous. He breaks out with one hand and holds a shop vac with the other, if necessary. As both he and I hate dust with a passion. With interior plastering regardless of the material we use, neither of us have ever had to sand any muds, if the skim coat if not perfect, sometimes this requires applying the bonding agent further than intended.
Kirk, today I got the cast off my arm and the stitches removed from working hard like you and damaging tendons. I used to think hard work never hurt anyone, I was wrong 😉 Stay nice and healthy. My next repair will be a couple of trigger fingers on the other hand. I’m “only” 63🤦🏼♂️
Howdy Clint, sorry to hear that, brother. I still think that way. My muscles keep getting stronger, personally. If I do stuff in awkward positions, then yes, I can and have beat myself up, but I try and use good form, so far, so good, and getting better.😉
been finishing 32 years...along with guys I have worked with are my hangers his sons and a couple of other tool finishers. All but the sons are 55 and older. . I have been encouraging them to transition away from new homes and into additions remodels repair. the guy that taught me to run the gun had that cast just taken off. He is sixty two
Why do you use such a big pool trowel Kirt? Love your channel. I worked in the bay area in 89 and 90. I plastered for 25 years. 11 years in Phoenix on a lot of Adobe homes inside and out.
I Rick, that trowel saves me a lot of time plus acts as a darby. If they made a bigger one, the one I'm using in this video would be, yesterday's old newspapers.😉
I love all your videos, which have taught me so much. I have a 1936 dutch colonial in Connecticut. All plaster walls and ceilings. Some people think I am crazy for not taking down the plaster since that is what most people seem to do in the East Coast i guess. And so and I am trying to fix all cracks and small holes my self simply because I love the feel, look and strength of plaster. I do have a question that I do not know if you have answered in any of your videos and if you have, I missed it. How do you get rid of the left over mud and how and when do you clean your tools? Do you keep a water bucket as you are working to soak your tools? As a beginner who may not be able to calculate the proper amount, I am concerned that I will have mud drying up in the bucket, becoming heavy and not being able to dispose of it properly. Thanks again for your willingness to teach your trade secrets.
I forgot to ask if i have left over compound could i just dump it out around my plants? Does it have nutritive properties? Isnt gypsum calcium basically, i hear dentistry can use it to graft and regrow new bone very interesting. Thanks and god bless
Evening Marty, sort of yes, old sheetrock is ground into the earth for its mineral content, but the joint compound has accelerators added, so discard or chuck any leftovers into the trash.🤔
Hi Kirk, thanks for the video. When I used to work drywall jobs, I would always see the tapers loosen up the bucket of joint compound by mixing in some water. I am guessing that made it easier to apply. My question is: if adding extra water to concrete makes it weaker, then does adding water to premixed drywall compound make it weaker? Happy New Year!
I would have repaired that with dry wall strips cut just under size of the hole for a tight fit pinned it to the existing with back blocking and then treated both sides of the cut line as a butt join with tape and then feathered it out into the existing finish - would have possibly been quicker and less messy. Your technique though is just as good. To make myself feel better I would charge the electricians a lot of money to repair the holes they have made. Bahahahaha this is kind of silly coming from me as I am not a plasterer but in fact an electrician. Best Wishes From Australia Mate !!
Howdy, my election tradesmen, there are many ways to skin a cat. I have seen better but also far worse. I'm just the guy who repairs. Cheers to you, in Australia.😏
It's huge as sanding sucks, as the stuff goes into our eye's mouth unless were covered like asbestos workers. The one tip a guy said as he used a wet shirt to smooth in edges, this is huge, what works even better is an old damp bath towel folded neatly and gone over the patch edges gently and in circles, which makes the joints invisible.
Why does a lot of the drywall in garages crack along the joints . ? Temperature . I’m on Ohio . I’m about to do a garage and I don’t want it to crack again . I m thinking maybe they didn’t use durabond to tape the joints ? Thanks for all your videos , appreciate it .
Where else? Amazon, I have been the second man on a 20-foot rod many times. This we did when plastering banks or buildings that were specked out for thin veneer bricks to be attached. The walls of say twenty feet had to have no more than a quarter of an inch gap, man, that was the most boring and tedious job in stucco work. I'd rather scrub my toilet with my toothbrush than do that nonsense again.🤔
What’s the best material and technique for getting straight seams on 45 degree angles on the ceiling? The texturized pre-creased joint tape always seems to delaminate, split or peel away from the ceiling after a couple years. Great video!
Evening my friend; this happens when there's too much water in the tapping mud or a dusty surface; I don't use tapping mud but still know this to be true. Try the joint compounds and remember nothing adheres to a dusty or dirty wall for long. 😏
Howdy Edsel, this is not the first or last time, I have rambled too much at the mouth, while the plaster is setting, just laughing at me saying, "keep talking" I'll make your life tough. It did but was nothing I couldn't handle. 🍾
What is the ratio you recommend for final coat mixing with Portland cement (94lbs bag) , Lime (50lbs bag) and either 20 or 30 grit sand (100lb bag) ❓ Thanks and happy plastering! 👍🏽
Howdy LM, I don't know as the bags I purchase at, the professional plastering yards have lime already in the bags, "westside building Material located in Oakland," they sell specific bags of stucco as opposed to your HD and lowes. We do buy our sand separately and, as a rule, mix about three times the sand to every one part of stucco.
@@hellorandyg Howdy randy, I have not heard of plus 3; however, any tapping mud will work, and all joint compounds, Aas well as Diamond or imperial Lime, finishes.💃
Evening Braz, no, that float had some moisture in it. Both floats are similar except for the color. The way to remove swirl lines is to allow the plaster or stucco to dry, then gently sweep the lines out with a dryer float.
Hi kirt, I have done quite a bit of indoor plastering with that type of product. I used to apply it using a similar trowel to that big one you are using, however, do you apply the finish coast with a knife instead of that trowel? I have found it easier to finish with a range of knives (from 150mm - 300mm) In Australia we apply this stuff using two versions of the product...you have base coat (or jointing compound from bags that we mix with water in 60 and 90 minute versions) and a sandable top coat. The top coat is not normally supplied in bags...its usually premixed buckets and if put on thicker than about 5mm will not go off for days.
Good evening Adam, I have used a knife before but prefer a hawk and trowel. When I apply 20-minute joint compounds, it's usually for holes such as this. I have used the topping mud only once, which was enough for me. I'm past that level. My finished products are usually on the money. If not, I make some more 20-minute mud and correct any boo-boos. I have only sanded once, about 35 or so years ago, and that was enough to force me to be exact with my tools or learn to float edges with water. I feel if there was a hell on earth, it would be sanding tapping mud. This horrible job should be forced upon serial killers instead of pounding down rocks with a sludge hammer. I think after a week, they all beg for the sludge hammers again to pay for their crimes. 😏
@@StuccoPlastering ahahaha yeah the sanding fninsh isnt easy. Sometimes we use electric plasterboard sanders on extension poles with attached vaccumes to get the surface finish ready for painting when required. Most Aussie plasterors i have seen and worked with try to always feather the edges during the application of the coats of plaster though. For example i try to do it off the knife as much as i can. The trick is to ensure that when knifing, one doesnt have a dry edge during the application process. The plaster always squeezes out past the edge of the knife whilst being applied. If done this way, no waterring or sanding to get feather is required. That is why i use a knife instead of a rounded end trowel...you cant get a beautifully feathered wet edge with that trowel. OBviously, that trowel is definately the go for filling up big holes though...holds a lot of plaster.
What causes drywall compound to go rancid with a rotten egg, sulfer-like smell? I recently did a big patch on a wall and the homeowner said the room stunk like crazy. It didn't smell bad to me when applying but I'm a painter with reduced smelling capacity. The 2 gallon pail still still doesn't smell bad to me and it looks perfect with no mold. I mean I placed 1/3 of a pail of drywall compound into a 2 gallon bucket (with a lid about 4-5 months) and sealed it tight. I've never had mud go bad in 25 years time. The first coat was a 20 minute hot mud and i waited about 5 hours to re-coat with all purpose. it was dry to touch but dark gray in most spots. I put a hair dryer on it just to see if it would lighten up and it didn't.
That's a common occurrence when storing mud and it's because it got contaminated via mold spores. To prevent it put a sheet of paper towel in a plastic bag/ziplock and pour a little bleach in it then leave the bag open and place it on top of the mud so only bleach fumes get out. Seal up your 5er and your good to go.
Cute Dude, I had to google that word as I have not heard of it. What I saw was a purple flower, no clue if it could be used as an accelerator. I'm an applicator, not a Botanist. That kind of research is all yours, my friend.🤔
Kirk, Sir, new sub here. Dude your videos are the best! Thank you dearly for sharing your knowledge, it's taught me alot! I live in Indiana, and lately have alot of clients requesting plaster fireplaces. My question, can I use plaster weld on a wood mantel and use structo lite directly on the wood, or do I have to wrap it with wire mesh. Thanks again for the amazing skills you share.
Howdy Greg, interesting question, you would have to attach 3.4 stucco mesh, as even though it's interior, the bonding agent won't stop the wood from swelling, thus the plaster would pop or buckle off.🍻
@@StuccoPlastering Hey dude! Thanks for the reply. That's exactly what I did! Referencing your awesome videos! Thanks again! Merry Christmas to you and family!
You could have just put drywall in stead of wire. We have a lot of plaster homes in Palm Springs and I always fix these like I would any other drywall repair.
Good evening Rafael, Yes sir, I could have, in fact, I could show at least ten different methods to fix these holes that were cut for new electrical cables to be installed. However, this is one of the easiest, longest-lasting, and best for appearances when the light goes on. With drywall, I would have had to use paper or fiberglass mesh tape for both seams. This would create a hump or bulge; thus, the feathering would have been farther and more noticeable. Thus this is a simpler but more effective and material for a better result in half the time. We are material experts first, much more valuable than just being a skilled craftsman.😉
Basically is the backer piece just floating in there? On walls presumably tuck the backer behind existing and screw through existing into the backer to secure?
@@danielmarquardt4341 On the ceiling he secured/screwed the strip of diamond mesh into the joists if you look carefully. On those two holes on the upper wall it looks like he jury rigged that board behind the mesh and secured it somehow....probably with screws (too hard to see). Depending on the size of a hole on a plaster/lath wall it's usually just easier to open it up (cut the hole) to the nearest studs and screw in the mesh that way or slap a piece of drywall as a backer spanning between the studs and screwed into the studs halfway across their width.
Evening Daniel, excellent question, Jason attached the lath to the joist with screws and cut the rib lath just a bit large so that the existing sides held it firmly in place. The natural mushrooming of the plaster above the metal mesh would then hold it permanently in place. This is Rib lath, not 3.4 mesh, although 3.4 mesh would also work.😉
I wouldnt do the fix floating a void that large. Sure its fixed and paintable but for how long? with the way the cut outs are through the center of the room. It will crack
It can't crack, it's a joint compound, I have been using them for over 35 years and have yet to see compounds cracking, stick to tapping mud and leave the compound to us masters. Material knowledge takes at least 20 years to master, plastering half that time, I'm referring to being a well-rounded master craftsman, not someone who does this from time to time, then goes back to their desk job.👎🏼
@@StuccoPlastering cracking occurs from structural movement which is beyond "drywall" and plastering no matter how skilled the trade is. A bad foundation or framing causes cracking, not the material shrinking as it sets (which powered compounds hardly shrink if mixed correctly). As the fresh timber dries out when the walls are sealed up they shrink, the framing can pull away from the sheathing (drywall) and thus create issues, mostly tape loosened, not really cracking. Screw/nail pops occur from flexing or incorrect installation (sunk too low or too high), which happen for sure. In our area (Eastern Canada) we go from +30c in the Summer to -30c in the winter, that is a 60 degree variance over 12 months. The only nail pops I have is from leaving really heavy snow loads on the roof (which you should clean off anyway to avoid ice damming) and any cracks were the result of foundation movement due to the weight above or sinking below. But given our shale base will happen anyways. This is an old house too, 1850's or abouts. I'm sure if one was 170 years old , you'll have a few defects too! Pre filling and v grooving butt joints will take care of that, as will correctly installing the fasteners. Plus any builder will tell you not to touch the house for a whole season or year to allow "settling" before fixing minor defects or touch ups. But I'm no expert.
everybody does it different, not everybody gets the same results however. Why are there no real videos of actual legit taping crews. All I see are some maxkit crap with guys running plus3 through a bazooka. Light weight mud for taping! bunch of f$#king lazy asses. pisses me off to see the number of finishers doing this. THats my two cents
If you’re a beginner don’t do this type of job with that big of a trowel. 12x5 trowel will do that trick. Kirk is a master so he can use anything including his shoes to apply.
at some point you will have to feather out the plaster over untouched paintwork not covered by bonding agent. Here in Australia, we dont normally use bonding agents for this, however, it might depend on what paints you use in the US compared with us in Australia. We use almost exclusively acrylic paints here, and they stick excpetionally well to sheetrock. The trick i have found is to sand the painted area first then apply the basecoat and finally the top coat (always overlapping previous coat with each new one). It may be that Kirt uses the bonding agent to avoid sanding? one thing is fure sure, If you dont feather the plaster directly to paint, i would imagine it will show after you have painted over the entire area? You will always see a slight difference in texture in the finished paint. This is because the old ceiling has already been painted...Kirk is now applying a fresh layer of plaster...it wont show the same texture as the existing previously painted plaster.
Evening Ray, I have folks do all sorts of stupid stuff. Joint compounds and plasters should be applied over bonding agents as we have been doing since I was 20 am now 60. The only gypsum you can apply that does not need a bonding agent is tapping mud, but I'm not sure as I don't use that filth.
Howdy Toco, Dude, man, I have had that happen a few times. The lye burns like hell. Unfortunately, it also burns our skin. Many years back, my hands bled at every joint as I didn't realize this fact.
Howdy Bob, good question. Joint compounds are basically gypsum tapping muds with accelerators added to gauge the setting time. Plaster or lime plasters are a combination of gypsum and crushed limestones. When mixed and applied, these give the mineral or hardness of Limestone. Limestone is resistant to mold and fungus and monolithic and or healthier than gypsum alone. Few know and even less care. But those who do know more in-depth find this information fascinating.🍻
@@StuccoPlastering yes sir. I’m saying it isn’t in the box stores anymore. They used to carry it. I’ve been using the ez sand like you did here these days and it’s good enough but the old green bags are the bees knees. Hard as a rock
This plasterer shows every way interiors or exteriors can be done or completed. And with every product or material ever discovered, I do this for folks who want to understand all methods. My channel is not for the closed-minded.🤔
@@StuccoPlastering We use lime and moulding in Indiana. Quicker and no sanding. Always a drywall mud substitute when doing conventional plaster for over 30yrs. Keep the trade alive!
Telling people to use the metal plate over a hole has to be the worst advise you've ever gave. It seems like you know about plastering outside not so much inside
I think you miss my point, no worries. Just because we don't use them does not mean others with little plastering knowledge can't. I think it's an excellent idea for some, which is why millions of them are sold in the USA annually. The fact that it was in my truck so long and lost its stick-em is my love to inform. I knew I would show it use someday, thus my cost of ten bucks down the drain, but the benefit outweighs my loss of the ten bucks, just to show folks they can indeed use those pre-stuck fiberglass metal backings, mainly if they have limited cash flow and or skills. I think you would be surprised how much cash I spend or waste to prove a point with our subscribers.
@@StuccoPlastering I used one recently to patch a hole, it was a vinyl one not a metal one (same difference), came out great with 6 pot lights too in the ceiling. It is the skill level of the applicator not the product that makes the difference. And your skill level is what many wish to be.
I find the 45 minite dry mix to provide a quick hard dry and ill sand it with a wet t shirt been doing this for years also thanks kirk god bless
Good evening Marty, ding ding, ding, give this man a cigar, that's what I'm talking about. I use a wet float or brush a damp bathroom towel works just as well. To hell with sanding.
Beautiful and simplified comment, my friend. Save your lungs from the dust; who knows, you might need them someday.
Wer e can I get ecco plaster at please in Los Angeles California
Love your videos
@@MarioMartinez-os5ch Good evening Maria, thank you, darling.😉
Hey Mario, I'd google that info, as the guy I know has his warehouse in Marin, that's a 8 hour drive from you guys.
no doubt there are ten companies in the Los Angeles area.
You make my plastering abilities improve immensely. And also better understand some of the guys I have to employ from time to time. A great teacher. Thanks. Nice family!
Evening my friend, those words are working thank you.😉
Thanks for your knowledge Kirk! It’s so true all the different muds, sometimes the guys want 20 minuet, other times they want regular mud. We’ve used it all, but the real trick is the expertise to know what you need for what situation. Thank you guys for your videos! Really appreciate them!
Evening Hotel Renovators, exzackory, the skill part takes some years to learn, the material knowledge, now that takes some time in. Thank you for the comment.😉
I would love to see more interior videos, very helpful and so much useful content. Thank you for posting Kirk & family !!
Morning Al, "Ask and ye shall receive" type in, "interior plastering," we have at least 50 on the subject of interior plastering.
Some are using structo-lite base coats and or lime plasters and every interior material produced.
You name it, we have applied it.😉
I love 5 minute hottmudd for small patches. Great video
Evening Bill, I've used the 5-minute mud, but for patches this size, it would not be productive, as would be set with my rambling before I can use it.😉
you can add an accelerator to the product, available from drywall suppliers or add some table salt/plaster of paris. It will turn 90 minute setting mud into 20 minutes easy, if you need to be in and out quickly. The 5 minute is not worth my time for clean up and 20 minutes is the minimum I use. Rather mix a larger batch of 20 say and throw some away then have to spend 10 minutes scraping tools covered in hardened product and then have to mix more anyways. With longer times I can clean up the semi-wet mud with a bucket and sponge and by that time I am ready for another round as the product has set up on the wall.
I’m working through my moms 1950 build old plaster with button board house, fixing cracks etc. Fortunately with my skill level the plaster is heavily textured so I get it reasonably smooth and then texture it. Watching your vids a few weeks ago for tips you mentioned your pool and using tools you are comfortable with. The next time I was working I was frustrated with mixing small batches (40 minute easy sand) in a bucket and decided next time to try something different. Went to a thrift store, bought a cheap kitchen mixer and a clear glass mixing bowl-and a big serving spoon. I now mix it with tools I’m familiar with-lol. Still use a hawk, etc for the rest but it’s easier for me to get the texture I want. The glass bowl is also super easy to hose off and clean-if I don’t break it some day! Now I wish I could find a button board to repair where my dad cut vents in the wall…I have a plan on how to do it but would be so much easier if I could find a bit of button board!! Thanks again Kirk-enjoy your vids and have used them a lot!
Good morning Dober Girl. LOL, I have mixed many times with just my gloved hand when it's a small patch and mixed on my hawk with my trowel.
You don't need button board with the holes in it, any solid board or sheetrock will work, with the 1950s with the bottom board the idea was the plaster mushroomed through the holes and held it firmly in place, just like it does mushrooming through the top of our metal lath.
However, if you use any sheetrock, just apply a bonding agent on the surface, such as quikrete sold at HD for about ten bucks.
We use Larson's "plaster weld" as they have it at "Westside building materials," that a professional plastering yard, where we buy all of our materials.
However, HD and lowes do sell the white bonding agent called, "quikrete," it's just as good.😉
Good to see you upload a video finally !
Evening Omar, we have been busy, thank you, brother.😏
Kirk Giordano is Chuck Norris of plastering.
Hey Jan, LOL, my friend. ruclips.net/video/X-7wq28CwrU/видео.html/
As always great show, this is very helpful as a painter this knowledge will always come in handy. As for the lime mix, we call here calcamite, paint as you said water reactivated it so any situation with this type or mix of paint it's always recommended to use an oil based primer designed for this. Before repatching and painting otherwise everything drops from the walls and ceiling. Great job keep it up.
Thanks for the info!
@Kirk Giordano plastering Inc. Their is also a product from Benjamin Moore which is a oil based product specifically for calcamite surfaces. To be used before patching and painting. Keep up the good work. Always enjoy watching your videos. Thanks Robert.
Recently I’ve started doing more drywall repair (haven’t tried stucco yet) and quick setting mud is absolutely great….. You said over mixing causes faster setting, yeah? With 5 minute powder I mix it fast on a board (like pasta dough) with minimal water and minimal mixing and get a few minutes beyond 5…. Wonder if that’s why? Wet sanding with a sponge or similar has finally got my work nearly dust free and glass smooth. Amazing to me that plaster videos help my drywall work more than drywall videos 😅 cheers man!!
Howdy my fellow tradesman, thank you, yeah dust is a drag wet sanding with an old bath towel kicks ass.
I just want to make a recommendation for any homeowners out there who have never done this before. Any of the compounds you have to mix yourself, not only do they dry quicker but they also dry much much much harder! Trust me they are much harder to sand smooth edges, you almost can’t sand them. I recommend using these quick setting/harder compounds for your first or second coat but make sure your edges are feathered and very clean then use a topcoat/bucket mud for your final coat or two because it’s much much much easier to sand and feather the edges! Great video. 🇺🇸 💪🏻 👊🏻 🤙🏼
Morning Chris, my fellow spread.
I have not heard of "harder joint compounds" they are all the same in strength, the set times are all that's different.
As a rule, you folks who do this and can't get your edges perfectly, no worries, finish your work, mix some more of the same joint compound you started with, and now you have the same amount of time to skim over any areas you're not happy with.
Good advice, Chris, but TMI, the wording will add confusion to the inexperienced person's task. We got to keep it simple.
Thanks for the tip.🤔
@@StuccoPlastering wow, I need to slow down sometimes and check that speech text before I press the send button. I fixed most of it. Yes, I promise you the fast setting drywall mud is harder and more dense then a premixed multi-purpose topcoat. I actually think it says easy sand on the label. I always use this for a final coat in the field area. Maybe it’s just me. 🇺🇸 💪🏻 👊🏻 🤙🏼
Oh, I see, said the blind man, you are correctomundo. Fast is also called drywall, or sheetrock joint compound that I believe is harder than all tapping muds.
Perhaps the accelerators are why? Surely, there is an engineer to explain why this is?😉
I guess I could "google it," but the interest is not there.
Thanks for the interesting comment.
@@StuccoPlastering Durabond is considered a harder setting compound for plaster repairs/base coats. You can wet sand it or dry sand with 40/60 Grit to rough up the surface for a skim coat. But you'll never get a nice finish with that product alone. I believe that is has more cement based material than the regular "Sheetrock" / "sandable" products but I'm only a DIY'er/handyman so no idea on the specifics. My method for patching/repairs is Durbond to fill/tape. Sheetrock to coat and/or joint compound to skim. Depending on the amount of work dictates the setting time of which product I use.
Great video Kirk from a fellow plasterer in england
the ready mix drywall compound has "PVA" glue in it. If you need to strengthen a powered mix you can add some regular PVA glue to the water before mixing, about 1 to 10 ratio or higher is fine. Makes it super sticky and good for bonding over painted surfaces if you cannot find a bonding agent. Not as good as "Weldbond", etc but better than nothing.
Exzackory, Quikrete bonding agent is sold at all the hardware stores at least in the California area.
I usually tape and bed and come back the next day to finish with purple lid and wetter is better on finish and a fast pull to get the bubbles out . I hate seeing pinholes . Good job bro . God Bless .
Howdy Hungry Bird Dude, Take notes, DIYers. This is perfect for most who watch what we do.
To use the materials, we're using takes a year or so of practice in getting to know our friend, Mr. joint compound.
On a wall, folks, it's so much easier as you don't have to consider gravity.😉
Always great tips! Thanks for sharing Kirk
Howdy Daniel in La Tuna, no problemo.
Fantastic keeper goin 👏. Best of luck from Hamilton Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
Howdy Randolph, thank you, can you believe folks pay us to have fun? what a country.😉
High Kirk very informative video dawn planty of patching up in my day another great way to fill those gaps in his with expanding foam then fill with jointing compound I would like to see you do a video with expanding foam hope your family is all well
I’ve done that too I like that method is some scenarios
I did this recently along a brick fireplace ( painted) to ceiling joint where the new ceiling drywall left a gap along the uneven edges of the brick, which were not the flat type.
Morning Chris, I have used expanding foam a few times but for exteriors such as where chimneys meet stucco walls, in the holes of the new pipes, where it will do more damage to break out properly, but foam in this instance would not work.😉
Great work Kirk.
Evening Wade, thank you, my friend. 👍
Good stuff! More videos like this. Interior fast set plaster. 👍🏼
Evening, my friend. Out of the 900 videos we have online, there are at least 50 or more in interior plastering. Using every type of interior plaster the world has invented or, more accurately, discovered.🤔
Love the techniques.
Evening Duane, thank you, my friend, we're having fun, messing around as usual.😏
Been there done that in a garage serval times . Wife and I watching now anniversary today 33 years. , good 👍🏻 job bro 😎
Peter, my old friend, congratulations my brother, give my best to your darling wife,
Cheers, my friend.
kirk giordano
@@StuccoPlastering thanks bro you as well . Hugs
Wow Kirk and Jay, this is the next project on my honey do list. Great video! You pretty much answered all the questions I had. 1) Can I use 20 minute gypsum mud to repair the cracks in my 80 year old plaster ceilings? 2) What bonding agent should I use? 3) How should I feather the edges on my repair section? I would have really liked to see how Jay manages the dust on the tear out phase. For me, keeping all that fine dust from going throughout the house is still the biggest challenge when doing this kind of work. Especially when you or the client is living in the home during the job. Kirk Giordano Plastering, you guys are the best!
Morning Doug, Jason is meticulous. He breaks out with one hand and holds a shop vac with the other, if necessary.
As both he and I hate dust with a passion.
With interior plastering regardless of the material we use, neither of us have ever had to sand any muds, if the skim coat if not perfect, sometimes this requires applying the bonding agent further than intended.
good stuff Kirk...txs for sharing, good lookin family
Morning Tom, thank you, my friend.😏
Kirk, today I got the cast off my arm and the stitches removed from working hard like you and damaging tendons. I used to think hard work never hurt anyone, I was wrong 😉
Stay nice and healthy. My next repair will be a couple of trigger fingers on the other hand. I’m “only” 63🤦🏼♂️
You can still go young man. Another 20 working years for you.😆
Howdy Clint, sorry to hear that, brother. I still think that way. My muscles keep getting stronger, personally.
If I do stuff in awkward positions, then yes, I can and have beat myself up, but I try and use good form, so far, so good, and getting better.😉
been finishing 32 years...along with guys I have worked with are my hangers his sons and a couple of other tool finishers. All but the sons are 55 and older. . I have been encouraging them to transition away from new homes and into additions remodels repair. the guy that taught me to run the gun had that cast just taken off. He is sixty two
He's my age, ii too can retire, but often feel like I'm in my prime, not always, but sometimes.
I do this stuff for the fun and the workout most days.
Why do you use such a big pool trowel Kirt? Love your channel. I worked in the bay area in 89 and 90. I plastered for 25 years. 11 years in Phoenix on a lot of Adobe homes inside and out.
Because he can
I Rick, that trowel saves me a lot of time plus acts as a darby. If they made a bigger one, the one I'm using in this video would be, yesterday's old newspapers.😉
Kirk u looking great man looking younger too
I love all your videos, which have taught me so much. I have a 1936 dutch colonial in Connecticut. All plaster walls and ceilings. Some people think I am crazy for not taking down the plaster since that is what most people seem to do in the East Coast i guess. And so and I am trying to fix all cracks and small holes my self simply because I love the feel, look and strength of plaster. I do have a question that I do not know if you have answered in any of your videos and if you have, I missed it. How do you get rid of the left over mud and how and when do you clean your tools? Do you keep a water bucket as you are working to soak your tools? As a beginner who may not be able to calculate the proper amount, I am concerned that I will have mud drying up in the bucket, becoming heavy and not being able to dispose of it properly. Thanks again for your willingness to teach your trade secrets.
Hi we clean our bucket excess mud back into the bags and save them in a pile and do dump runs when the pile gets too large.😉
Do you have a rule or thumb when you use mesh tape on you cracks and patches? Your videos are great thanks
Howdy MB, as a rule when going over newly attached sheetrock we use it.👨🏻🔬
I forgot to ask if i have left over compound could i just dump it out around my plants? Does it have nutritive properties? Isnt gypsum calcium basically, i hear dentistry can use it to graft and regrow new bone very interesting. Thanks and god bless
Evening Marty, sort of yes, old sheetrock is ground into the earth for its mineral content, but the joint compound has accelerators added, so discard or chuck any leftovers into the trash.🤔
Hi Kirk, thanks for the video. When I used to work drywall jobs, I would always see the tapers loosen up the bucket of joint compound by mixing in some water. I am guessing that made it easier to apply. My question is: if adding extra water to concrete makes it weaker, then does adding water to premixed drywall compound make it weaker? Happy New Year!
Hi Thomas, I don't think it does, however we would have to wait longer for it to dry out.
Taping mud in Scandinavia is latex with a very fine aggregate. It shrinks a lot.
Howdy Afronin, sound like our gypsum sold here.🕵🏼
I would have repaired that with dry wall strips cut just under size of the hole for a tight fit pinned it to the existing with back blocking and then treated both sides of the cut line as a butt join with tape and then feathered it out into the existing finish - would have possibly been quicker and less messy. Your technique though is just as good. To make myself feel better I would charge the electricians a lot of money to repair the holes they have made. Bahahahaha this is kind of silly coming from me as I am not a plasterer but in fact an electrician. Best Wishes From Australia Mate !!
Howdy, my election tradesmen, there are many ways to skin a cat.
I have seen better but also far worse. I'm just the guy who repairs.
Cheers to you, in Australia.😏
@@StuccoPlastering - 100% respect for you Kirk !!
Evening Serge, you're spoiling me, thank you.😉
Repair without sanding is a major plus.
It's huge as sanding sucks, as the stuff goes into our eye's mouth unless were covered like asbestos workers. The one tip a guy said as he used a wet shirt to smooth in edges, this is huge, what works even better is an old damp bath towel folded neatly and gone over the patch edges gently and in circles, which makes the joints invisible.
Why does a lot of the drywall in garages crack along the joints . ? Temperature . I’m on Ohio . I’m about to do a garage and I don’t want it to crack again . I m thinking maybe they didn’t use durabond to tape the joints ? Thanks for all your videos , appreciate it .
The number one reason is there was no mesh tape at those joints or seams.🤔
Do you use the lime putty, molding plaster and gaging plaster for your interiors
No, not anymore as it's too much work. They make bags that have all that stuff in them now.😏
Love ur videos, excellent job , I’m a big fan. Where can u find magnesium feather edges. They used to come in 20 ft lenths
Where else? Amazon, I have been the second man on a 20-foot rod many times. This we did when plastering banks or buildings that were specked out for thin veneer bricks to be attached.
The walls of say twenty feet had to have no more than a quarter of an inch gap, man, that was the most boring and tedious job in stucco work. I'd rather scrub my toilet with my toothbrush than do that nonsense again.🤔
What’s the best material and technique for getting straight seams on 45 degree angles on the ceiling? The texturized pre-creased joint tape always seems to delaminate, split or peel away from the ceiling after a couple years.
Great video!
Evening my friend; this happens when there's too much water in the tapping mud or a dusty surface; I don't use tapping mud but still know this to be true.
Try the joint compounds and remember nothing adheres to a dusty or dirty wall for long. 😏
Looks like Kirk is all tuckered out!
Howdy Edsel, this is not the first or last time, I have rambled too much at the mouth, while the plaster is setting, just laughing at me saying, "keep talking" I'll make your life tough. It did but was nothing I couldn't handle. 🍾
What is the ratio you recommend for final coat mixing with Portland cement (94lbs bag) , Lime (50lbs bag) and either 20 or 30 grit sand (100lb bag) ❓
Thanks and happy plastering! 👍🏽
Howdy LM, I don't know as the bags I purchase at, the professional plastering yards have lime already in the bags, "westside building Material located in Oakland,"
they sell specific bags of stucco as opposed to your HD and lowes.
We do buy our sand separately and, as a rule, mix about three times the sand to every one part of stucco.
Could Structo-lite be used? Then top with plus 3 to skip trowel to match existing texture?Thanks!
Howdy Randy, of course, Structo-lite can be used as a base coat. Keep in mind Structo-lite takes on average 3 to 5 hours to set.
@@StuccoPlastering thanks so much for the reply. To finish/top it with Plus 3 is fine? Trying to achieve a not so sandy finish. Thanks again.
@@hellorandyg Howdy randy, I have not heard of plus 3; however, any tapping mud will work, and all joint compounds, Aas well as Diamond or imperial Lime, finishes.💃
@@StuccoPlastering Thank you! You guys are great. Much appreciated.
-that float at the end was dry right? Is the yellow float finer than the green and does it not leave swirl lines?? Thanks for the vid!
Evening Braz, no, that float had some moisture in it. Both floats are similar except for the color. The way to remove swirl lines is to allow the plaster or stucco to dry, then gently sweep the lines out with a dryer float.
Hi kirt, I have done quite a bit of indoor plastering with that type of product. I used to apply it using a similar trowel to that big one you are using, however, do you apply the finish coast with a knife instead of that trowel? I have found it easier to finish with a range of knives (from 150mm - 300mm)
In Australia we apply this stuff using two versions of the product...you have base coat (or jointing compound from bags that we mix with water in 60 and 90 minute versions) and a sandable top coat. The top coat is not normally supplied in bags...its usually premixed buckets and if put on thicker than about 5mm will not go off for days.
Good evening Adam, I have used a knife before but prefer a hawk and trowel.
When I apply 20-minute joint compounds, it's usually for holes such as this. I have used the topping mud only once, which was enough for me.
I'm past that level. My finished products are usually on the money. If not, I make some more 20-minute mud and correct any boo-boos.
I have only sanded once, about 35 or so years ago, and that was enough to force me to be exact with my tools or learn to float edges with water.
I feel if there was a hell on earth, it would be sanding tapping mud.
This horrible job should be forced upon serial killers instead of pounding down rocks with a sludge hammer. I think after a week, they all beg for the sludge hammers again to pay for their crimes. 😏
@@StuccoPlastering ahahaha yeah the sanding fninsh isnt easy. Sometimes we use electric plasterboard sanders on extension poles with attached vaccumes to get the surface finish ready for painting when required.
Most Aussie plasterors i have seen and worked with try to always feather the edges during the application of the coats of plaster though.
For example i try to do it off the knife as much as i can. The trick is to ensure that when knifing, one doesnt have a dry edge during the application process. The plaster always squeezes out past the edge of the knife whilst being applied. If done this way, no waterring or sanding to get feather is required.
That is why i use a knife instead of a rounded end trowel...you cant get a beautifully feathered wet edge with that trowel. OBviously, that trowel is definately the go for filling up big holes though...holds a lot of plaster.
Kirk, I went to your Amazon page but could not find your 20 inch trowel nor you bucket scoops. Could you tell me where to get them, thanks, Andrew
I do the same thing as Kirk but do a final with a felt "mop".
What causes drywall compound to go rancid with a rotten egg, sulfer-like smell?
I recently did a big patch on a wall and the homeowner said the room stunk like crazy. It didn't smell bad to me when applying but I'm a painter with reduced smelling capacity. The 2 gallon pail still still doesn't smell bad to me and it looks perfect with no mold.
I mean I placed 1/3 of a pail of drywall compound into a 2 gallon bucket (with a lid about 4-5 months) and sealed it tight.
I've never had mud go bad in 25 years time. The first coat was a 20 minute hot mud and i waited about 5 hours to re-coat with all purpose. it was dry to touch but dark gray in most spots. I put a hair dryer on it just to see if it would lighten up and it didn't.
That's a common occurrence when storing mud and it's because it got contaminated via mold spores. To prevent it put a sheet of paper towel in a plastic bag/ziplock and pour a little bleach in it then leave the bag open and place it on top of the mud so only bleach fumes get out. Seal up your 5er and your good to go.
Evening Ted, the mud got contaminated with something.
Under normal conditions, the smell won't stink or smell, even if old.🤔
@@StuccoPlastering yes it will.its the glue going bad
Is rhodedendrum fertilizer an accelerator ?
Cute Dude, I had to google that word as I have not heard of it. What I saw was a purple flower, no clue if it could be used as an accelerator.
I'm an applicator, not a Botanist.
That kind of research is all yours, my friend.🤔
Kirk, Sir, new sub here. Dude your videos are the best! Thank you dearly for sharing your knowledge, it's taught me alot! I live in Indiana, and lately have alot of clients requesting plaster fireplaces. My question, can I use plaster weld on a wood mantel and use structo lite directly on the wood, or do I have to wrap it with wire mesh. Thanks again for the amazing skills you share.
Howdy Greg, interesting question, you would have to attach 3.4 stucco mesh, as even though it's interior, the bonding agent won't stop the wood from swelling, thus the plaster would pop or buckle off.🍻
@@StuccoPlastering Hey dude! Thanks for the reply. That's exactly what I did! Referencing your awesome videos! Thanks again! Merry Christmas to you and family!
You could have just put drywall in stead of wire. We have a lot of plaster homes in Palm Springs and I always fix these like I would any other drywall repair.
Good evening Rafael, Yes sir, I could have, in fact, I could show at least ten different methods to fix these holes that were cut for new electrical cables to be installed. However, this is one of the easiest, longest-lasting, and best for appearances when the light goes on.
With drywall, I would have had to use paper or fiberglass mesh tape for both seams.
This would create a hump or bulge; thus, the feathering would have been farther and more noticeable.
Thus this is a simpler but more effective and material for a better result in half the time.
We are material experts first, much more valuable than just being a skilled craftsman.😉
Kirk how did he attach the mesh here?
Basically is the backer piece just floating in there? On walls presumably tuck the backer behind existing and screw through existing into the backer to secure?
I was wondering too - he didn't install any mesh after talking about it. I would use mesh in such a big gap but it wouldn't be as flat as this.
@@danielmarquardt4341 On the ceiling he secured/screwed the strip of diamond mesh into the joists if you look carefully. On those two holes on the upper wall it looks like he jury rigged that board behind the mesh and secured it somehow....probably with screws (too hard to see). Depending on the size of a hole on a plaster/lath wall it's usually just easier to open it up (cut the hole) to the nearest studs and screw in the mesh that way or slap a piece of drywall as a backer spanning between the studs and screwed into the studs halfway across their width.
Evening Daniel, excellent question, Jason attached the lath to the joist with screws and cut the rib lath just a bit large so that the existing sides held it firmly in place.
The natural mushrooming of the plaster above the metal mesh would then hold it permanently in place. This is Rib lath, not 3.4 mesh, although 3.4 mesh would also work.😉
@@StuccoPlastering I see it now thanks Kirk
I wouldnt do the fix floating a void that large. Sure its fixed and paintable but for how long? with the way the cut outs are through the center of the room. It will crack
It can't crack, it's a joint compound, I have been using them for over 35 years and have yet to see compounds cracking, stick to tapping mud and leave the compound to us masters. Material knowledge takes at least 20 years to master, plastering half that time, I'm referring to being a well-rounded master craftsman, not someone who does this from time to time, then goes back to their desk job.👎🏼
@@StuccoPlastering buildings move ......you have been doing repairs for that long and never had cracking? love your videos man,
@@StuccoPlastering cracking occurs from structural movement which is beyond "drywall" and plastering no matter how skilled the trade is. A bad foundation or framing causes cracking, not the material shrinking as it sets (which powered compounds hardly shrink if mixed correctly). As the fresh timber dries out when the walls are sealed up they shrink, the framing can pull away from the sheathing (drywall) and thus create issues, mostly tape loosened, not really cracking. Screw/nail pops occur from flexing or incorrect installation (sunk too low or too high), which happen for sure. In our area (Eastern Canada) we go from +30c in the Summer to -30c in the winter, that is a 60 degree variance over 12 months. The only nail pops I have is from leaving really heavy snow loads on the roof (which you should clean off anyway to avoid ice damming) and any cracks were the result of foundation movement due to the weight above or sinking below. But given our shale base will happen anyways. This is an old house too, 1850's or abouts. I'm sure if one was 170 years old , you'll have a few defects too! Pre filling and v grooving butt joints will take care of that, as will correctly installing the fasteners. Plus any builder will tell you not to touch the house for a whole season or year to allow "settling" before fixing minor defects or touch ups. But I'm no expert.
everybody does it different, not everybody gets the same results however. Why are there no real videos of actual legit taping crews. All I see are some maxkit crap with guys running plus3 through a bazooka. Light weight mud for taping! bunch of f$#king lazy asses. pisses me off to see the number of finishers doing this. THats my two cents
thank you
Cool beans, Daddieo.🍻
What the cost on a repair like this
Man, I don't get into the cost for obvious reasons. 🤔
Why you didn't put some scrim tape on the edges? defenetely is gonna crack!
bullshit. If it did crack don't you thinks I'd know that and have to return?
If you’re a beginner don’t do this type of job with that big of a trowel. 12x5 trowel will do that trick. Kirk is a master so he can use anything including his shoes to apply.
Evening Michael, exzackory and LOL, we have to walk before we can run.😉
Where can I learn the art of plastering? I’m practicing on my house at the moment. I’m not that bad actually, but…
Howdy Dave, stay on this channel and type in, interior plastering😉
I used this stuff I noticed it doesn’t stick to paint when you roll on the primer so I saw someone mix it with glue
at some point you will have to feather out the plaster over untouched paintwork not covered by bonding agent. Here in Australia, we dont normally use bonding agents for this, however, it might depend on what paints you use in the US compared with us in Australia. We use almost exclusively acrylic paints here, and they stick excpetionally well to sheetrock. The trick i have found is to sand the painted area first then apply the basecoat and finally the top coat (always overlapping previous coat with each new one). It may be that Kirt uses the bonding agent to avoid sanding?
one thing is fure sure, If you dont feather the plaster directly to paint, i would imagine it will show after you have painted over the entire area? You will always see a slight difference in texture in the finished paint. This is because the old ceiling has already been painted...Kirk is now applying a fresh layer of plaster...it wont show the same texture as the existing previously painted plaster.
Evening Ray, I have folks do all sorts of stupid stuff.
Joint compounds and plasters should be applied over bonding agents as we have been doing since I was 20 am now 60.
The only gypsum you can apply that does not need a bonding agent is tapping mud, but I'm not sure as I don't use that filth.
@@StuccoPlastering thanks Kirk it was the Vancouver handyman on RUclips lol always got to listen to the seasoned vets
LOL, cheers my friend.
Very good idea not to water it down. I will never forget the day i had a glob fall into my eyeball!
Howdy Toco, Dude, man, I have had that happen a few times. The lye burns like hell.
Unfortunately, it also burns our skin.
Many years back, my hands bled at every joint as I didn't realize this fact.
You didn't drop any. I would be outside cleaning the lugs on my shoes with a garden hose.
Good evening Anthony, exzackory. If we drop any, we have to pick it up, plus we would end up walking on it and spending it everywhere. Don't do that.😉
Them felt brushes for plaster we call slickers
Hody Hungry Bird Dude, there are lots of names for what we called "interior plastering felt brushes" an endless topic.
Use ice water to extend the time.
I appreciate the tip, but wouldn't waste perfectly good ice water on extending the time of joint compounds when it could be used for cooling my beer.🤔
@@StuccoPlastering 🤣 Preferably after it's cooled the beer, dual use!
@@xolomartinez6036 No doubt, 🤔
What's the difference between joint compound and veneer plaster?
Howdy Bob, good question. Joint compounds are basically gypsum tapping muds with accelerators added to gauge the setting time.
Plaster or lime plasters are a combination of gypsum and crushed limestones. When mixed and applied, these give the mineral or hardness of Limestone.
Limestone is resistant to mold and fungus and monolithic and or healthier than gypsum alone.
Few know and even less care. But those who do know more in-depth find this information fascinating.🍻
Good luck finding Durabond these days. Try an actual lumber yard but nothing compares for big repairs.
Howdy Chris, I go to "Westside building materials" in Oakland for all my materials. They are a professional plastering yard.
@@StuccoPlastering yes sir. I’m saying it isn’t in the box stores anymore. They used to carry it. I’ve been using the ez sand like you did here these days and it’s good enough but the old green bags are the bees knees. Hard as a rock
Some Ace Hardware stores carry brown bag Durabond. Check their website for stock in specific stores. I’m in Southern California.
That's ganja lol
Howdy Kris, no mon, that's joint compound.
There's a lot less residue.
1st!
Indeed you are my friend, thank you.😉
Why is a plasterer using drywall mud? 🤔😅
This plasterer shows every way interiors or exteriors can be done or completed.
And with every product or material ever discovered, I do this for folks who want to understand all methods.
My channel is not for the closed-minded.🤔
@@StuccoPlastering We use lime and moulding in Indiana. Quicker and no sanding. Always a drywall mud substitute when doing conventional plaster for over 30yrs. Keep the trade alive!
@@faafo7205 Cool beans Daddieo.😏
Telling people to use the metal plate over a hole has to be the worst advise you've ever gave. It seems like you know about plastering outside not so much inside
I think you miss my point, no worries.
Just because we don't use them does not mean others with little plastering knowledge can't. I think it's an excellent idea for some, which is why millions of them are sold in the USA annually.
The fact that it was in my truck so long and lost its stick-em is my love to inform. I knew I would show it use someday, thus my cost of ten bucks down the drain, but the benefit outweighs my loss of the ten bucks, just to show folks they can indeed use those pre-stuck fiberglass metal backings, mainly if they have limited cash flow and or skills.
I think you would be surprised how much cash I spend or waste to prove a point with our subscribers.
@@StuccoPlastering I used one recently to patch a hole, it was a vinyl one not a metal one (same difference), came out great with 6 pot lights too in the ceiling. It is the skill level of the applicator not the product that makes the difference. And your skill level is what many wish to be.
Good evening Mr. Carr, I do believe I like your style, thank you.