30 seconds in and already you have provided more info than all the 4 plus hours of videos I’ve watched today trying to learn about this elusive lime putty plaster! THANK YOU 🎉
Some beautiful finishing's mate and I love the intricacy of your detail to finish. I would definitely say your an asset to your trade and community! I'm a Painter & Decorator by trade and love the 315mm trowel! Learning more every day, thanks again guys!
On the very day I was planning on doing this. I have been getting some good results with a thin veneer coat over sheet rock, takes a nice finish too if you get the timing right. Thanks for the great info, as always.
gentlemen... I just want you to know I really enjoy your videos a lot. Kirk reminds me of my dad... he's a cool dude. Love the content here... keep it up!
i love to watch you work, maintaining historical levels of pride in ever word and scoop of mud. Ironically i just watched a vid of someone getting new veneers from the dentist... ur like a house dentist! Love you Kirk! ❤️🖖🌱🍀🧽
Good morning Marius, Thank you, for the kind words, brother. My opinion is USG's emphasis on this dammed word, "veneer," I didn't know myself It meant a thin layer of finish. I always thought of it as gypsum, lime, or another mineral that had to do with plastering. I wanted to call to the makers and say, Man, just call it a line plaster or a lime finish. Where the hell did the word, “veneer” plaster come for, some kind of mid-evil times of past centuries. They really should term it toward the current century, and print Lime plaster on their bags. Here is a message to USG through this comment section in words they may relate to; we must understand the correct dialog to get one's attention. USG, if you want to double your sales to the general public, remove the word "veneer" as it's used out of context for this century, and instead of print, Lime plaster, you only need a thin layer. 😉
I love the pool float you use. You can also paint the cracked plaster with a lime wash paint to fill in any cracks but your technique of applying the skim coat is very sensible, I never though that it would need so much attention. I like the way you de-stress/strengthen/denisfy the skim coat after 30 minutes to reduce chance of cracking on further drying...'.crazing' is the technical word. dam a PhD in physics and help build materials on 5th generation USA fighter jet.
The best of the best!! thank you Mr kirk a family, I learned a lot in your videos , and I've been having great results with your techniques. Thank you very much
Hey Kirk,. Great videos! You mentioned at 10 minutes in the home owner laid down some mesh tape. With using lime based plaster particularly the diamond you're using do you need to tape corners necessarily?
Hi Brian, I tape joints and attach a metal corner aid to all my corners, personally. In this case, the owner already did some skimming, thus only a bonding agent was necessary. Good question, brother.😏
Hey Kirk, if the interior walls were smooth plaster finish and there is a decent amount of patches needed around the room’s perimeter, how would you match the smooth finish if you can’t sand the imperfections? Would you apply a thin coat application on all the walls to make things uniform?
Very welcome. I’ve been watching your videos with an interior project in mind. I have old Sheetrock walls that have a glossy paper finish that I want to coat over with lime plaster. Your videos are very educational. Stay well, and thank you for the great content.
I have a 1890 brick house that has some wonderful old plaster & lathe walls. I am trying to repair one of the walls instead of tearing it out. I am having a very challenging time trying to find a recipe for a plaster mixture for patching the wall to match it. I was assuming lime, sand, some type of animal hair and plaster? I would really appreciate some guidance as far as what products to purchase and where. I have dolomitic limestone, sand and plaster of paris but that doesn't seem right to me. Please advise! thank you
Hii Kiirk I mixed diamond with polymermortar 50/50 and it's the perfect limestone block finish .. I only had one issue. Fast setting in the bucket. I retempered and it was fine and its dry and looks great. I went over a scratchcoat of just the polymer mortar ( tile Mortar to be exact ) I taped a stone pattern and installed this. If you like I can show you the pictures. No plaster bag or blend has ever worked so well for this application before. Yes it's a decorative application but I tried it to see the outcome and cost. Between the 2 bags the cost was like $12 a bucket
Good day Kirk! A question about fiber mesh tape. Do you tape drywall to plaster seams? I have a soffit I'm doing and the face abutts the ceiling which is drywall but the bottom abutts plaster. I have taped both but will be applying plaster next week. Thank you sir!
Yes and yes, all butted sheetrock/drywall should be taped. However keep in mind in some instances it's better to apply a bonding agent as you don't want a hump in the wall or ceilings as you needed to cover that fiberglass mesh.😏
@@StuccoPlastering Copy that sir. That's what I did. Just finished the base coat of gypsolite. Tomorrow will be the diamond. For my first ti. E really using anything other than drywall mud, thus far it's looking great. I guess we'll have to see tomorrow after the finish coat. 🤓
Hi MB, on the ceiling, I did, but I don't think so on the wall, as it wasn't necessary as the bonding agent was applied instead. It depends on the size of the gap to mesh or not.
Good morning Kirk! Do you sponge the edges to blend in with the existing? Also if you use structo light underneath can you wet it to keep it from sucking the moisture out of the diamond? Thanks again for your videos sir. Again you are a Craftsman with a capital C!
Morning Kirk, using a sponge float is determined by the finish. If it's sandy, then sure use the sponge float. Use a trowel as a rule for smooth finishes. Excellent question, the fact I didn't address it in this video means I had too many rooms already plasterers, and subconsciously, I had to know which needed my attention; thus was pre-occupied consciously to cover most issues I was trying to explain. Okay, regardless of whether your base coat is Structo-lite of Imperial base coat or any of the other 20-basecoats with or without sand. You Abolulyly need to wet, soak or mist that basecoat so that the suction is under control. If you don't, whichever finish plaster you apply will instantly have the moister sucked from it by that thirty basecoats, which will cause too many problems to list here. Again, excellent question, my brother.
Does the Diamond finish provide more working time then a Lime putty and gauging plaster mix? I have always mixed lime putty and gauging Plaster for the putty coat and have found that when mixing them if I mix it too much it accelerates the set and it starts to stiffen on the board in less then 30 minutes.
Hey Kirk, do you still tape inside corners using plaster? It seems you don’t from what I can see but you haven’t mentioned it in the videos I’ve watch. Great videos! Gearing up to plaster a fireplace.. thanks!
As a rule when going over drywall/sheetrock, with any Lime plaster or drywall joint compound, or even a taping mud. One still must tape the joints with paper or fiberglass tape or cracks WILL appear at these butted up joints or seams in the future.🤔
No, as they aren't bonding agents, ones a portland cement the other a lime plaster. A bonding agent is Larson, weld crete, or quikrete bonding agents. Don't get confused about the crap you read on websites, know the difference, still not certain email me again as, I'd hate to hear of you or anyone else, have a new finish fail. I get emails daily of this. cheers
Can this be used on plywood or mdf? would you prime it? How does this sound, plywood, primer, bonding agent, imperial base coat, and diamond on top? Is this a no go, or overkill? Thanks for all the info you put out there!
Good morning Wggee; unfortunately, tapping mud and all interior plaster should not be applied over wood, even if you apply a bonding agent? Why? Excellent question, by the way. When hot or even warm, the wood can expand; thus, all plaster will pop off. You are better off going over sheetrock; this mud will adhere permanently. And yes, I have tried this twice many years back, only to have to scrape off the loose or peeling plaster, then attach the sheetrock and do it again. Cheers. 😉
I can see plastering coming back in a big way, so superior to drywall in every way, looks better, doesn't mold, fire resistant properties, sound insulation, no taping and sanding with dust everywhere, etc etc.
While true, electricians always complain about cutting through it, and most companies only care about how fast you get a job done, also no one wants to work these days
Evening Mark plastering interior walls had been used for thousands of years throughout Europe, it's only new here, for about 200 years. In fact the great fire in England burned so many homes either in the1600s or was it the 1700s that the king ordered all new home to be built with plaster interior walls to stop the fires from getting out of hand. Things that make you go hmm....
That's what I'm talking about! Interior Lime plaster is some fun. Except if Some falls from The lid and lays over Both Eyes. We call that "racooned" around here. Better Run to The hose quick!. Bonding agent is so esential. Cheers friend.
Speaking of Raccoons, Can’t find "Diamond?” Diamond is simply a name like "Imperial" both of these lime plasters are made by USG. If you can't find Diamond, so what. Buy another lime plaster. The title of USG's Lime plaster they call, "Diamond," one has to admit it's a clever name for lime plaster, Why? Diamond, a mineral composed of pure carbon. It is the hardest naturally occurring substance known. It's just clever brand naming. Google, "Lime Plaster in my area," FYI, it can be named "Raccoons arse hole" as long as it's a Lime Plaster, you’re good.
Kirk, say a DIYer has the same repair to make as you do in this video but goes with the base coat first. Would you suggest using Structolite or Diamond Veneer basecoat (or a hot mud)? And why/what would be the difference in this situation?
Hello, my friend, this video was to answer a question asked often on this channel, can I just apply a finish coat? The fact is naturally if one applies a basecoat with either structo-lite or any of the base coat lime plasters it will no doubt be stronger. In this video, the homeowner left the strong wood cedar lath on the attached sheetrock, so the anymore strength would have been overkill, besides I had an ulterior reason for just a finish coat in some areas the sheetrock was bulging past the existing walls so to add basecoat plus a finish, would have created a hump and have been an apprentice move for me. 😉
@@StuccoPlastering You da man! I wish you were here on the east coast to help repair my 200 yr old house but at least I'm learning enough from your vids to try my own small repairs
@@StuccoPlastering this is my issue they have removed the wood laths so I put the matching ¼ inch drywall to fill the hole and now stuck do I put base over the pink binding agent then the lime coat as a finish which will help make up for the space difference or just the lime coat finish really thick.
Hey kirk, for some of us who live in countries that don't have diamond finish what can we use instead? how would they mix this in the old days before the prepackaged bags came (ratio of lime/plaster/?) Peace and love from Israel
Hello my Israeli friend, The word, "Diamond" is simply a name like "Imperial" both of these lime plaster are made by USG, over where you located you can buy the same if not better lime plaster at a fraction of the cost. Disregard the word, "veneer" also as that simply means a thin application; it has nothing to do with any lime plaster. The title of USG's LIme plaster they call, "Diamond," one has to admit it's a clever name for a lime plaster, Why? Diamond, a mineral composed of pure carbon. It is the hardest naturally occurring substance known. It's just clever brand naming. Google, "Lime Plaster in my area," FYI, it can be named "Racoons arse hole" as long as it's a Lime Plaster your good. Kirk Giordano Plastering
Howdy Roblox, kirk hates no plasters only removal of plaster and mixing. All plater's are my friends, I'm like a lion tamer except and instead of a chair and whip, I choose a hack and trowel. Kirk giordano plastering
My lime skim coat plaster containing silica sand and lime hydrate keeps micro cracking, how can I prevent it cracking ? It is applied onto a lime/aggregate base coat. I scratch the surface of the base coat to provide a key, no direct sunlight and I dampen the wall down before applying the skim coat, but the cracks appear after 7 days of drying. Thank you. I cannot add fibres, as it is the final finish coat.
Good evening my friend you doing everything right so it must be the pressure, apply it lighter or with less pressure and don't overtrowel it. Lay it on gently make it pretty with as few stocks as possible and not too much muscle. When you use too much muscle or pressure or over trowel it, the new finish can and will lift or separate from the original or base coat finish, voila, checking or spider cracking, Handle it like a weee baby, gentle like and with skill. I'd say good luck, but luck won't help, gentled few stroks my brother. Cheers.
@@StuccoPlastering I Never thought of that idea, great mate, thank you. Therefore which 11 inch trowel by Nela/Marshaltown/OX available in the UK would you suggest to apply the lime/silica skim coat gently, perhaps a rubber float/sponge float instead of stainless steel ? Another burning question....I need to apply maximum pressure onto the very very stiff 3:1 quick lime base coat, therefore I am using a MIDGET rectangular trowel only 8x3 inch in size. Is there a better alternative way at generating an even higher pressure; I considered a Japanese trowel with a pointed edge. Very interesting to hear your reply, I emphasise, the lime plaster needs very high compression to move it across the wall. Must be carbon steel to grip the lime rich base coat, which one do you suggest from the list here.......japaneseplastering.com/japanesetrowels
Hello, thank you for the video. Can you help us with a tip where we can buy veneer plaster in USA? Homedepot and Lowe don't have it in stock and orders take a long time. We have contacted USG and have received no response. a distributor. we are located in Salt Lake City, thank you
Evening Tapper, I have never sanded wall in my entire career, just the thought of that much dust, is mind boggling, not to mention what is does when contact to your skin. FYI, this plaster can't be sanded. Its monolithic. That just means it resorts back to limsone.😉
@@bryangarloch3143 over troweling usually lifts the single coat and or causes excessive cracking and bobbling. As there is no base coat for the finish to stick to. The bonding agent is to make certain it adheres but a base coat has serious suction that acts as a mechanical bond, the glue or bonding agent is a chemical bond. It’s a little confusing that’s why it’s recommended to use a base coat. Cheers
Awesome thank you. In asking one question I've discovered answers for other issues I've been having. I'll keep trying maybe someday I'll be as good as you. lol
Howdy Tom, good question, no, for butting new sheetrock the mesh would then be necessary. For interior plastering mesh would create an eyesore or buildup to cover that mesh. A proper bonding agent achieves the same result with no buildup.
Hello Kirk, This isn't a dig, but when you call this product a lime plaster its a little confusing. It's a gypsum plaster mixture with hydrated lime. It confused me anyway until I ran to the USG website.
Howdy my friend, LOL, it used to be mostly Lime when I started 40 years ago, each year they add more plasticisers. Why? Lime is expensive, so more of these so-called plasterizes keep replacing the lime. I've been it this trade since Moses was alive, and I still don't know what plasterisers are, but if I were to take a guess I would say, just a less expensive by product of gypsum, as they cost less. I'm an applicator, not an engineer. I'm not losing sleep as to how much lime they continue to take away as it's expensive, and much additives as plasticisers are added instead. It's kind of like the maker of wines, they insdent the bottle so they can sell les wine for the same cost. In a billion dollar industry the same them perhaps 10 Million? I could give you a hundred more scenarios similar to cutting cost in manufacturing, but it's business and not anything to be bitter over. it's just how the world has always worked. Cheers my fellow plasterer. 😉
Not all veneer plasters have lime. These plasters use Gypsum cement as the "body" and lime as the "aggregate". Products like USG Diamond and GBBP Xkalibur have a high content of lime. USG does specify Diamond as a "milled lime finish" in several spec documents.
Cool beans Daddieo, For the time I have left In this trade, I will continue to use the terminology of lime plastering when it comes to what used to be lime plasters. They can dilute it to pure gypsum for all I care. My how-to videos are for explaining applications not to analyze what current companies are adding or replacing to save on manufacturing costs. There's enough of this nonsense in the food and beverage industry as is, to give up 5 minutes to who else in the cement and stucco world is also trying to dupe us. At least we don't have digest plaster.😏
Too funny! Like plaster is the answer. This house is over 120 years old the last 50 years empty. Holes in the ceiling where the roof let water in and you can see how even that took years to know out the plaster base and lime finish… everywhere and cracks galore but this beautiful old house is well made and still standing and now being redone as an escape from the city rioting and crazy ignorant people locations. A nice town of not even 900 people. Beside what else is there to do with life but work and accomplish! Before enlightenment chop wood carry water, after enlightenment chop wood carry water!
Hello Playgirl, LOL, FYI, my hoses is 130 years old, I removed all the failing plaster, then re-plastered it back together. 30 years later, it's still in tact. 🥂
Outstanding tutorial Sir! I'm a retired Marine living in a 60+ year old home in Western, PA. My walls and ceilings appear to have been plastered over paint. I have a lot of areas that are cracked and de-laminating which I want to address as a DIY project. Unfortunately I hired a "pro" painter to do a single room thinking they new how to patch, prime and paint old plaster walls. They didn't and it shows. $3,000 dollars later I'm convinced I can do a better job myself, but am unsure but the thought of skim coating every wall is causing me pause. As a stop gap measure I was thinking perhaps I could just lock down the delaminating areas with a primer and joint compound. It sounds doable, but I have no idea if it would be effective, nor do I know what primers / joint compound to use should I attempt this. The RUclips paint gurus suggest Zinsser or Kilz primers and then USG mud for drywall repairs. Now that I've watched your videos I'm uncertain if the YT recommendations are the best approach to my challenge. Would a more effective solution be to use a plaster weld type bond on the areas that are delaminating and then skim coating over them? If so, what would you recommend? Thanks in advance Ken Gunnery Sergeant, USMC (retired)
Howdy Hamid, of course, you can. I've been doing it for more than 40 years, naturally, that painted walls needs to be clean than have a bonding agent applied to it. In this video, the same application would be done whether it was painted or not. Now you know.😉
Sorry but 1 coat sponge plastering gets a thumbs down from me. In the UK we call 1 coat spongers frauds! 😆 im not saying you are but we use alot of brittish gypsum in the UK and has alot more aggregate so the sponge give a poor corse finish due to being a 3mm finish plaster. It may look ok to the average eye but when the light hits at an angle for example reflecting back off curtains will look like the surface of the moon! Washing the bond out from the aggregate and replacing it with weakened plaster from the sponged surface is looked at as a very amateur way of plastering On lime plaster I agree a sponge is good when used correctly but not 1 coating? A levelling coat is very important for a quality finish! When timed correctly it allows you to lay a thin skin on top for a perfect uniformed finish 👌🏼
SO.. question .. If Diamond is "lime plaster" then why did you buy DECOLIME, MURALIME, ECO STUCCO for over 100 dollars a bag to lime plaster your upstairs ? my guess is DIAMOND is LIME and gypsum or SAND and ECO STUCCO is LIME and MARBLE ????
LOL, do we know each other? As I'm a gentleman, let's call my ex Rosanna, Eileen, Allison and dimples. Now listen to this song. ruclips.net/video/gAzcHe8K8G4/видео.html/ 😏
30 seconds in and already you have provided more info than all the 4 plus hours of videos I’ve watched today trying to learn about this elusive lime putty plaster! THANK YOU 🎉
😂 lol so tru
Kirk Giordano, Idaho Painter & Vancouver Carpenter are like a religion to me, enjoy every video.
I like your style , thank you my friend.
We are starting our lime plaster project this weekend - thank you so much for the knowledge :) Milton says thank you
Good luck!
Some beautiful finishing's mate and I love the intricacy of your detail to finish. I would definitely say your an asset to your trade and community! I'm a Painter & Decorator by trade and love the 315mm trowel! Learning more every day, thanks again guys!
Howdy Tui, thank you kindly my friend.Cheers.
Kirk, you make it look so easy.
Thank you, I've been doing this a long time, my friend. 👍
Thanks for the tips Kirk , great video 👍
Morning Rick, thank you, my friend.👍
Fascinating info, Kirk. Sending to my brother who loves plaster. He’s got a 1926 house and drywall is anathema to him. As always, excellent content
Thanks for sharing!
On the very day I was planning on doing this. I have been getting some good results with a thin veneer coat over sheet rock, takes a nice finish too if you get the timing right. Thanks for the great info, as always.
Good morningbPico, man, what are the odds of that? Happy troweling, my brother.😉
This guy motivated me to do my own rendering, just love his videos
Howdy Nickos, I like your style my friend, thank you.😉
gentlemen... I just want you to know I really enjoy your videos a lot. Kirk reminds me of my dad... he's a cool dude. Love the content here... keep it up!
That's awesome Jared, thank you for the kind words.
i love to watch you work, maintaining historical levels of pride in ever word and scoop of mud. Ironically i just watched a vid of someone getting new veneers from the dentist... ur like a house dentist! Love you Kirk! ❤️🖖🌱🍀🧽
Good morning Marius, Thank you, for the kind words, brother.
My opinion is USG's emphasis on this dammed word, "veneer," I didn't know myself It meant a thin layer of finish.
I always thought of it as gypsum, lime, or another mineral that had to do with plastering.
I wanted to call to the makers and say, Man, just call it a line plaster or a lime finish.
Where the hell did the word, “veneer” plaster come for, some kind of mid-evil times of past centuries.
They really should term it toward the current century, and print Lime plaster on their bags.
Here is a message to USG through this comment section in words they may relate to; we must understand the correct dialog to get one's attention.
USG, if you want to double your sales to the general public, remove the word "veneer" as it's used out of context for this century, and instead of print, Lime plaster, you only need a thin layer. 😉
Legend! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience
Good morning King, my brother; thank you.
Thanks for another great episode for this diy guy! Right in my wheelhouse!
I like how you worded that, thank you.😏
I love the pool float you use. You can also paint the cracked plaster with a lime wash paint to fill in any cracks but your technique of applying the skim coat is very sensible, I never though that it would need so much attention. I like the way you de-stress/strengthen/denisfy the skim coat after 30 minutes to reduce chance of cracking on further drying...'.crazing' is the technical word. dam a PhD in physics and help build materials on 5th generation USA fighter jet.
Hi Kirk, watching in Ireland. Love the videos.
The best of the best!! thank you Mr kirk a family, I learned a lot in your videos , and I've been having great results with your techniques. Thank you very much
you are too kind my friend, thank you.
Hey Kirk,. Great videos! You mentioned at 10 minutes in the home owner laid down some mesh tape. With using lime based plaster particularly the diamond you're using do you need to tape corners necessarily?
Hi Brian, I tape joints and attach a metal corner aid to all my corners, personally.
In this case, the owner already did some skimming, thus only a bonding agent was necessary.
Good question, brother.😏
Hey Kirk, if the interior walls were smooth plaster finish and there is a decent amount of patches needed around the room’s perimeter, how would you match the smooth finish if you can’t sand the imperfections? Would you apply a thin coat application on all the walls to make things uniform?
Kirk, I love how you never stay on subject.
I do get sidetracked.
Kirk, you’re not just an applicator, you’re an artist. Inspiring.
You are too kind my friend, thank you.
Very welcome. I’ve been watching your videos with an interior project in mind. I have old Sheetrock walls that have a glossy paper finish that I want to coat over with lime plaster. Your videos are very educational.
Stay well, and thank you for the great content.
@@zdra8945 thank you 😉
I have a 1890 brick house that has some wonderful old plaster & lathe walls. I am trying to repair one of the walls instead of tearing it out. I am having a very challenging time trying to find a recipe for a plaster mixture for patching the wall to match it. I was assuming lime, sand, some type of animal hair and plaster? I would really appreciate some guidance as far as what products to purchase and where. I have dolomitic limestone, sand and plaster of paris but that doesn't seem right to me. Please advise! thank you
Hii Kiirk
I mixed diamond with polymermortar 50/50 and it's the perfect limestone block finish ..
I only had one issue. Fast setting in the bucket.
I retempered and it was fine and its dry and looks great.
I went over a scratchcoat of just the polymer mortar ( tile Mortar to be exact ) I taped a stone pattern and installed this.
If you like I can show you the pictures.
No plaster bag or blend has ever worked so well for this application before.
Yes it's a decorative application but I tried it to see the outcome and cost.
Between the 2 bags the cost was like $12 a bucket
Good day Kirk! A question about fiber mesh tape. Do you tape drywall to plaster seams? I have a soffit I'm doing and the face abutts the ceiling which is drywall but the bottom abutts plaster. I have taped both but will be applying plaster next week. Thank you sir!
Yes and yes, all butted sheetrock/drywall should be taped. However keep in mind in some instances it's better to apply a bonding agent as you don't want a hump in the wall or ceilings as you needed to cover that fiberglass mesh.😏
@@StuccoPlastering Copy that sir. That's what I did. Just finished the base coat of gypsolite. Tomorrow will be the diamond. For my first ti. E really using anything other than drywall mud, thus far it's looking great. I guess we'll have to see tomorrow after the finish coat. 🤓
Good stuff! 🔝👍
Thank you! Cheers!
So cool, thanks!
No problemo, thank for watching.
Would not get away with that across the pond but love your vids obviously a different style of render or plastering love u kirk
LOL, over the pond, they have too many rules for me. Is seeing not believing? Cheers.
What are you on about? He’s matching into the equivalent of an artex surface, which he would get away with and is very common here in England
Love your videos did you mesh tape the joints
Hi MB, on the ceiling, I did, but I don't think so on the wall, as it wasn't necessary as the bonding agent was applied instead. It depends on the size of the gap to mesh or not.
Good morning Kirk! Do you sponge the edges to blend in with the existing? Also if you use structo light underneath can you wet it to keep it from sucking the moisture out of the diamond? Thanks again for your videos sir. Again you are a Craftsman with a capital C!
Morning Kirk, using a sponge float is determined by the finish. If it's sandy, then sure use the sponge float.
Use a trowel as a rule for smooth finishes.
Excellent question, the fact I didn't address it in this video means I had too many rooms already plasterers, and subconsciously, I had to know which needed my attention; thus was pre-occupied consciously to cover most issues I was trying to explain.
Okay, regardless of whether your base coat is Structo-lite of Imperial base coat or any of the other 20-basecoats with or without sand.
You Abolulyly need to wet, soak or mist that basecoat so that the suction is under control.
If you don't, whichever finish plaster you apply will instantly have the moister sucked from it by that thirty basecoats, which will cause too many problems to list here.
Again, excellent question, my brother.
I often use a concrete overlay that I put an intregal color in. Can you put color in this stuff if you want to change te color? Just curious
Of course you can, your only limitation is an unused imagination😉
Does the Diamond finish provide more working time then a Lime putty and gauging plaster mix? I have always mixed lime putty and gauging Plaster for the putty coat and have found that when mixing them if I mix it too much it accelerates the set and it starts to stiffen on the board in less then 30 minutes.
I'm no longer sure as I haven't used gauging plaster in 30 years. I buy what's available these days as a lime plaster.
@@StuccoPlastering thanks kirk
Hey Kirk, do you still tape inside corners using plaster? It seems you don’t from what I can see but you haven’t mentioned it in the videos I’ve watch. Great videos! Gearing up to plaster a fireplace.. thanks!
As a rule when going over drywall/sheetrock, with any Lime plaster or drywall joint compound, or even a taping mud.
One still must tape the joints with paper or fiberglass tape or cracks WILL appear at these butted up joints or seams in the future.🤔
@@StuccoPlastering good to know
Kirk, can I WAIT 24 hours after Larsen plaster weld has been applied to apply/use Diamond lime plaster?
you can apply after ten minutes or wait up to ten days after rolling or brushing on larsons
Cover it all in plaster! Excellent
That's the plan!😏
I'm drywall guy you videos good information
Morning Alex, thank you, my friend.
Hi Kirk, can I use the diamond veneer finish to make a lime wash? Your videos are a great help, thanks for everything.
Yes, you can!
@@StuccoPlasteringthanks man, didn’t see this comment
Can you make portland plaster stick to a 87 years combined layer of lime whitening on my concrete cornice on the house. If used a bonding agent?
No, as they aren't bonding agents, ones a portland cement the other a lime plaster.
A bonding agent is Larson, weld crete, or quikrete bonding agents.
Don't get confused about the crap you read on websites, know the difference, still not certain email me again as, I'd hate to hear of you or anyone else, have a new finish fail.
I get emails daily of this. cheers
Can this be used on plywood or mdf? would you prime it? How does this sound, plywood, primer, bonding agent, imperial base coat, and diamond on top? Is this a no go, or overkill? Thanks for all the info you put out there!
Good morning Wggee; unfortunately, tapping mud and all interior plaster should not be applied over wood, even if you apply a bonding agent? Why? Excellent question, by the way.
When hot or even warm, the wood can expand; thus, all plaster will pop off. You are better off going over sheetrock; this mud will adhere permanently. And yes, I have tried this twice many years back, only to have to scrape off the loose or peeling plaster, then attach the sheetrock and do it again. Cheers. 😉
thank you
Morning Michael Dude, cool beans, Daddieo.💃
I can see plastering coming back in a big way, so superior to drywall in every way, looks better, doesn't mold, fire resistant properties, sound insulation, no taping and sanding with dust everywhere, etc etc.
While true, electricians always complain about cutting through it, and most companies only care about how fast you get a job done, also no one wants to work these days
Is plastering done mainly in cities with older homes, that originally used plaster walls instead of drywall?
Evening Mark plastering interior walls had been used for thousands of years throughout Europe, it's only new here, for about 200 years.
In fact the great fire in England burned so many homes either in the1600s or was it the 1700s that the king ordered all new home to be built with plaster interior walls to stop the fires from getting out of hand.
Things that make you go hmm....
That's what I'm talking about! Interior Lime plaster is some fun. Except if Some falls from The lid and lays over Both Eyes. We call that "racooned" around here. Better Run to The hose quick!. Bonding agent is so esential. Cheers friend.
Speaking of Raccoons,
Can’t find "Diamond?” Diamond is simply a name like "Imperial" both of these lime plasters are made by USG. If you can't find Diamond, so what. Buy another lime plaster.
The title of USG's Lime plaster they call, "Diamond," one has to admit it's a clever name for lime plaster,
Why? Diamond, a mineral composed of pure carbon. It is the hardest naturally occurring substance known.
It's just clever brand naming.
Google, "Lime Plaster in my area,"
FYI, it can be named "Raccoons arse hole" as long as it's a Lime Plaster, you’re good.
Is plaster of Paris the same as that limestone diamond plaster ?
It's similar but set faster. It's usually used for setting bones.
We usually have to do a whole section at once or you will see the start and finish of the old plaster. Any videos on that?.
Yes, we do, but even I'm not sure where to look, or what to type in. We have a thousand videos we have posted in the last 15 years, Sorry.
great video. Just one thing, I assume the Diamond veneer plaster is not just lime but has gypsum plaster in it too.
So they say, it the best you will find in the USA, if you want more lime, it's a log ocean to cross to get to the UK🤔
@@StuccoPlastering thanks kirk!
Kirk, say a DIYer has the same repair to make as you do in this video but goes with the base coat first. Would you suggest using Structolite or Diamond Veneer basecoat (or a hot mud)? And why/what would be the difference in this situation?
Hello, my friend, this video was to answer a question asked often on this channel, can I just apply a finish coat?
The fact is naturally if one applies a basecoat with either structo-lite or any of the base coat lime plasters it will no doubt be stronger.
In this video, the homeowner left the strong wood cedar lath on the attached sheetrock, so the anymore strength would have been overkill, besides I had an ulterior reason for just a finish coat in some areas the sheetrock was bulging past the existing walls so to add basecoat plus a finish, would have created a hump and have been an apprentice move for me. 😉
@@StuccoPlastering You da man! I wish you were here on the east coast to help repair my 200 yr old house but at least I'm learning enough from your vids to try my own small repairs
@@StuccoPlastering this is my issue they have removed the wood laths so I put the matching ¼ inch drywall to fill the hole and now stuck do I put base over the pink binding agent then the lime coat as a finish which will help make up for the space difference or just the lime coat finish really thick.
@@atkgrl Hello darling, you can do either, but if your new, at it, Basecoat it, then when that sets, apply a finish coat. 🥂
Great lesson: I did my house the same way
Good morning Jerry, way to go my brother, thank you.
Love ya
Love ya back
Hey kirk, for some of us who live in countries that don't have diamond finish what can we use instead? how would they mix this in the old days before the prepackaged bags came (ratio of lime/plaster/?)
Peace and love from Israel
Hello my Israeli friend,
The word, "Diamond" is simply a name like "Imperial" both of these lime plaster are made by USG, over where you located you can buy the same if not better lime plaster at a fraction of the cost.
Disregard the word, "veneer" also as that simply means a thin application; it has nothing to do with any lime plaster.
The title of USG's LIme plaster they call, "Diamond," one has to admit it's a clever name for a lime plaster,
Why? Diamond, a mineral composed of pure carbon. It is the hardest naturally occurring substance known.
It's just clever brand naming.
Google, "Lime Plaster in my area,"
FYI, it can be named "Racoons arse hole" as long as it's a Lime Plaster your good.
Kirk Giordano Plastering
Know that Kirk hates Lime... But, DAYUM that was some educational information!!!!.. Five Stars!!!!
Howdy Roblox, kirk hates no plasters only removal of plaster and mixing.
All plater's are my friends, I'm like a lion tamer except and instead of a chair and whip, I choose a hack and trowel.
Kirk giordano plastering
Can i put this over tile? Can it be tinted, thank you !
No, sorry, that would be a bad idea.
😊 I've seen ppl do it in their videos not sure if it lasst long or not
Can you add color like normal lime plaster and leave it instead of painting
Hello, Of course, you can. 😏
My lime skim coat plaster containing silica sand and lime hydrate keeps micro cracking, how can I prevent it cracking ? It is applied onto a lime/aggregate base coat. I scratch the surface of the base coat to provide a key, no direct sunlight and I dampen the wall down before applying the skim coat, but the cracks appear after 7 days of drying. Thank you. I cannot add fibres, as it is the final finish coat.
Good evening my friend you doing everything right so it must be the pressure, apply it lighter or with less pressure and don't overtrowel it. Lay it on gently make it pretty with as few stocks as possible and not too much muscle.
When you use too much muscle or pressure or over trowel it, the new finish can and will lift or separate from the original or base coat finish, voila, checking or spider cracking, Handle it like a weee baby, gentle like and with skill.
I'd say good luck, but luck won't help, gentled few stroks my brother. Cheers.
@@StuccoPlastering I Never thought of that idea, great mate, thank you. Therefore which 11 inch trowel by Nela/Marshaltown/OX available in the UK would you suggest to apply the lime/silica skim coat gently, perhaps a rubber float/sponge float instead of stainless steel ? Another burning question....I need to apply maximum pressure onto the very very stiff 3:1 quick lime base coat, therefore I am using a MIDGET rectangular trowel only 8x3 inch in size. Is there a better alternative way at generating an even higher pressure; I considered a Japanese trowel with a pointed edge. Very interesting to hear your reply, I emphasise, the lime plaster needs very high compression to move it across the wall. Must be carbon steel to grip the lime rich base coat, which one do you suggest from the list here.......japaneseplastering.com/japanesetrowels
I wonder if we can have a pure matt white plaster...
Things that make you go Hmmmm.💃
Hello,
thank you for the video.
Can you help us with a tip where we can buy veneer plaster in USA?
Homedepot and Lowe don't have it in stock and orders take a long time.
We have contacted USG and have received no response.
a distributor.
we are located in Salt Lake City,
thank you
Howdy, google "Plastering yards near me" such as "Westside Building Materials" They sell plastering and stucco supplies.
Lw supply I bet would have it
Like wet sanding 5 I was made for this!
Evening Tapper,
I have never sanded wall in my entire career, just the thought of that much dust, is mind boggling, not to mention what is does when contact to your skin.
FYI, this plaster can't be sanded.
Its monolithic. That just means it resorts back to limsone.😉
When using lime how do you feather it out to existing wall without a border showing?
That my friend takes practice. Watch how I do it in this video.
Thank you
Sounds like I'm making a couple mistakes, over troweling for one.
@@bryangarloch3143 over troweling usually lifts the single coat and or causes excessive cracking and bobbling. As there is no base coat for the finish to stick to. The bonding agent is to make certain it adheres but a base coat has serious suction that acts as a mechanical bond, the glue or bonding agent is a chemical bond. It’s a little confusing that’s why it’s recommended to use a base coat. Cheers
Awesome thank you. In asking one question I've discovered answers for other issues I've been having.
I'll keep trying maybe someday I'll be as good as you. lol
How does this product compare with lime plaster
LOL, this is a lime plaster. 😉
No mesh on the seams?
Howdy Tom, good question, no, for butting new sheetrock the mesh would then be necessary. For interior plastering mesh would create an eyesore or buildup to cover that mesh. A proper bonding agent achieves the same result with no buildup.
“How come I use such a big tool?” Big men have big tools!
Hello Kirk, This isn't a dig, but when you call this product a lime plaster its a little confusing. It's a gypsum plaster mixture with hydrated lime. It confused me anyway until I ran to the USG website.
Howdy my friend, LOL, it used to be mostly Lime when I started 40 years ago, each year they add more plasticisers. Why? Lime is expensive, so more of these so-called plasterizes keep replacing the lime.
I've been it this trade since Moses was alive, and I still don't know what plasterisers are, but if I were to take a guess I would say, just a less expensive by product of gypsum, as they cost less.
I'm an applicator, not an engineer.
I'm not losing sleep as to how much lime they continue to take away as it's expensive, and much additives as plasticisers are added instead.
It's kind of like the maker of wines, they insdent the bottle so they can sell les wine for the same cost. In a billion dollar industry the same them perhaps 10 Million?
I could give you a hundred more scenarios similar to cutting cost in manufacturing, but it's business and not anything to be bitter over. it's just how the world has always worked.
Cheers my fellow plasterer. 😉
Not all veneer plasters have lime. These plasters use Gypsum cement as the "body" and lime as the "aggregate". Products like USG Diamond and GBBP Xkalibur have a high content of lime.
USG does specify Diamond as a "milled lime finish" in several spec documents.
Cool beans Daddieo, For the time I have left In this trade, I will continue to use the terminology of lime plastering when it comes to what used to be lime plasters. They can dilute it to pure gypsum for all I care. My how-to videos are for explaining applications not to analyze what current companies are adding or replacing to save on manufacturing costs.
There's enough of this nonsense in the food and beverage industry as is, to give up 5 minutes to who else in the cement and stucco world is also trying to dupe
us.
At least we don't have digest plaster.😏
People say, hey Kurt. Why didn't you dominate kung fu movies? Lime plaster.
Good question, we should.🕺🏻
Too funny! Like plaster is the answer. This house is over 120 years old the last 50 years empty. Holes in the ceiling where the roof let water in and you can see how even that took years to know out the plaster base and lime finish… everywhere and cracks galore but this beautiful old house is well made and still standing and now being redone as an escape from the city rioting and crazy ignorant people locations. A nice town of not even 900 people. Beside what else is there to do with life but work and accomplish! Before enlightenment chop wood carry water, after enlightenment chop wood carry water!
Hello Playgirl, LOL, FYI, my hoses is 130 years old, I removed all the failing plaster, then re-plastered it back together. 30 years later, it's still in tact. 🥂
Love the videos. The way you move that the trowel puts all of
Us to shame. I propOse you use your left hand only from now on. 🙃
deal brother as the fact is I can use either hand.😉
I wish i could see the skip trowel texture.
@@turboflush Evening Flush Dude. Ask and ye shall receive. Type in “ Skip Trowel stucco Finish” 😉
I’d love to put a lime plaster on my cinderblock wall and over my house stucco, and lime wash my brick chimney. What do you think?
Morning, I think you should listen to your subconscious. 😉
Hey Kirk good video.
Evening Guard Duck Dude, Glad you enjoyed it.😉
I love diamond
Hi Nick, it does have it's advantages.
Outstanding tutorial Sir! I'm a retired Marine living in a 60+ year old home in Western, PA. My walls and ceilings appear to have been plastered over paint. I have a lot of areas that are cracked and de-laminating which I want to address as a DIY project. Unfortunately I hired a "pro" painter to do a single room thinking they new how to patch, prime and paint old plaster walls. They didn't and it shows. $3,000 dollars later I'm convinced I can do a better job myself, but am unsure but the thought of skim coating every wall is causing me pause. As a stop gap measure I was thinking perhaps I could just lock down the delaminating areas with a primer and joint compound. It sounds doable, but I have no idea if it would be effective, nor do I know what primers / joint compound to use should I attempt this. The RUclips paint gurus suggest Zinsser or Kilz primers and then USG mud for drywall repairs. Now that I've watched your videos I'm uncertain if the YT recommendations are the best approach to my challenge. Would a more effective solution be to use a plaster weld type bond on the areas that are delaminating and then skim coating over them? If so, what would you recommend? Thanks in advance
Ken
Gunnery Sergeant, USMC (retired)
For one minute I thought I'm watching a BobRoss videos 😅
Can you plaster over painted wall
Any body?
Scuff it up and use a bonding agent, and don't over trowel. Good to go.
Howdy Hamid, of course, you can.
I've been doing it for more than 40 years,
naturally, that painted walls needs to be clean than have a bonding agent applied to it. In this video, the same application would be done whether it was painted or not.
Now you know.😉
🥰🥰🥰🥰💖
thank you sweetie, have a wonderful evening.🥂
Idk if you can but i can hahahaha
LOL, exzackory.
The owner could have saved a lot of capital just skimming the walls he should have talked the project over with you
@@user-ec4vv3iq9k Woulda, coulda, shoulda, if I took all the should’ve in my life, I’d be retired a very wealthy man at this time.🕵🏼♀️
It's called burnishing
Howdy, thanks for the tip.
Sorry but 1 coat sponge plastering gets a thumbs down from me. In the UK we call 1 coat spongers frauds! 😆 im not saying you are but we use alot of brittish gypsum in the UK and has alot more aggregate so the sponge give a poor corse finish due to being a 3mm finish plaster. It may look ok to the average eye but when the light hits at an angle for example reflecting back off curtains will look like the surface of the moon! Washing the bond out from the aggregate and replacing it with weakened plaster from the sponged surface is looked at as a very amateur way of plastering
On lime plaster I agree a sponge is good when used correctly but not 1 coating? A levelling coat is very important for a quality finish! When timed correctly it allows you to lay a thin skin on top for a perfect uniformed finish 👌🏼
Morning Dan, you missed the point of this video, no doubt a few others may also, cheers.
SO.. question .. If Diamond is "lime plaster" then why did you buy DECOLIME, MURALIME, ECO STUCCO for over 100 dollars a bag to lime plaster your upstairs ? my guess is DIAMOND is LIME and gypsum or SAND and ECO STUCCO is LIME and MARBLE ????
Good question. Diamond also has some gypsum in it.
The other limes you mention are the real deal, only crushed limestone, no gypsum's added.😉
Where is the mrs. .?
E
LOL, do we know each other? As I'm a gentleman, let's call my ex Rosanna, Eileen, Allison and dimples.
Now listen to this song.
ruclips.net/video/gAzcHe8K8G4/видео.html/ 😏
That's a goofy looking blue door.
Exzackory, Wel Crete is not made for pretty, it's designed for effective bonding. 😏