A small addition to the suggested histogram: if you are star tracking at lower ISO's (around 800 or lower) you might be able to push the histogram more to the right, thus collecting more good signal, without losing too much star color.
I'm very glad that the YT algorithm suggested your content. I've watched a few videos so far and subscribed so that I don't miss anything in the future. I hope that you can continue to make this kind of good content - don't burn yourself out or anything, but know that people appreciate it.
Thanks so much Henry, appreciate your comment! My plan is definately to continue making content as long as I have fun doing it (which I do!). These kind of reactions are very motivating also! :-).
Thank you for this video! And thank you for doing it right - most astrophotographers believe in „ETTR“ (expose to the right). But that is wrong! Especially because most of modern cameras do have sensors that are invariant to ISO. Which means it is no difference (to the noise) if you push the ISO while lightgathering or pushing it afterwards in postproduction. BUT: In HDR-Scenes it is a big difference - because you overexpose your images fastly. So it‘s better to NOT ETTR, but increase the level afterwards in post. 🙌
My pleasure! And excellent additional info here. I totally agree. And talking about ISO invariance, it also helps if you don't have to bump your ISO too far. Lower ISO = higher dynamic range = more chance of recovering highlights in post.
YOU are wrong. You should always use the ETTR technique when using iso variant cameras. It makes a huge difference for your SNR. And yeah, the stars will be over exposed, but you could always separately shoot your star layer.
@@J.53780 Thanks for sharing your thoughts! Must admit I have never thought of shooting the stars separately, interesting idea. With an ISO variant camera I would still prefer the presented histogram, stack for noise reduction and stretch the data with a star mask applied though. But ofcourse everybody should do what works best for their setup and workflow!
In the meantime I investigated further. I have to add that if you are using a star tracker at lower ISO's (say 800 or lower) you might be able to push the histogram more to the right without losing too much star color. I will run a test next time when I'm out and will share the results!
This was super helpful, both exposition-wise and post-processing-wise. This is the first time I'm hearing about StarNet, very curious about the results after I've tested it out
Very interesting video and helpful thanks. Has got me thinking about how I do things and wondering if I can improve. In general though I personally feel it's better to lose a bit of star colour in exchange for gaining a lot of airglow and better snr. I wonder if one solution is stacking or shooting a separate star layer? My histogram is usually in the middle or even slightly exposed to the right but I'll have to look into this topic more.
Thanks Brendan! There's something to be said prioritising airglow/MW detail in stead of star color. Tracking at lower ISO's helps a lot to gain more dynamic range, retaining more star color and gaining more dust detail at the same time. I've also heard people shooting a separate star layer, although I have never tried it myself.
Thanks for the video. My issue is that while the images in my device have colours in stars as they normally do. But as soon as i upload in somewhere, say instagram, the colours are lost and the stars are back to being white. How do you get around this? Is there any solution for it? Thanks.
Good question actually. I have also noticed that some social media destroy your fine quality by compressing the images. Instagram has a pretty harsh compression in particular, other social media apps compress less. I am not all too worried about it however, since I have the original files and can show them in full res on my screen. Besides I don't expect instagram users to pixel peep that much. You can always share them uncompressed on an own website or other picture portfolio portals like Flickr if you'd like.
For Mac users: you might want to check this video to help out: ruclips.net/video/km4wKo8P50s/видео.html I don't know yet how to get the GUI working, but it works as described in the video from the link
A small addition to the suggested histogram: if you are star tracking at lower ISO's (around 800 or lower) you might be able to push the histogram more to the right, thus collecting more good signal, without losing too much star color.
Great stuff Jeroen! Downloading as we speak!
Thanks man! Let me know how it turned out! 👍
Brilliant tuturial Jeroen! Just did a practice run on one of my milkyway stacks and the difference in the amount of starcolor is immens!
Awesome Martijn! Glad I converted another one to the star color side 🙃
Very useful tutorial, will pay more attention to my histogram next time!
Great to hear Marcel, thanks!
Super handige tutorial! Thanks
Tof om te horen, dankjewel!
I'm very glad that the YT algorithm suggested your content. I've watched a few videos so far and subscribed so that I don't miss anything in the future.
I hope that you can continue to make this kind of good content - don't burn yourself out or anything, but know that people appreciate it.
Thanks so much Henry, appreciate your comment! My plan is definately to continue making content as long as I have fun doing it (which I do!). These kind of reactions are very motivating also! :-).
That's extremely helpful. I have to try that out.
Hope it helps!
What does your histogram looks like? And are you using star masking? I'm curious!
Thank you for this video!
And thank you for doing it right - most astrophotographers believe in „ETTR“ (expose to the right). But that is wrong!
Especially because most of modern cameras do have sensors that are invariant to ISO. Which means it is no difference (to the noise) if you push the ISO while lightgathering or pushing it afterwards in postproduction. BUT: In HDR-Scenes it is a big difference - because you overexpose your images fastly. So it‘s better to NOT ETTR, but increase the level afterwards in post. 🙌
My pleasure! And excellent additional info here. I totally agree. And talking about ISO invariance, it also helps if you don't have to bump your ISO too far. Lower ISO = higher dynamic range = more chance of recovering highlights in post.
@@StarScaperPhoto 💯💯💯
YOU are wrong. You should always use the ETTR technique when using iso variant cameras. It makes a huge difference for your SNR. And yeah, the stars will be over exposed, but you could always separately shoot your star layer.
@@J.53780 Thanks for sharing your thoughts! Must admit I have never thought of shooting the stars separately, interesting idea. With an ISO variant camera I would still prefer the presented histogram, stack for noise reduction and stretch the data with a star mask applied though. But ofcourse everybody should do what works best for their setup and workflow!
In the meantime I investigated further. I have to add that if you are using a star tracker at lower ISO's (say 800 or lower) you might be able to push the histogram more to the right without losing too much star color. I will run a test next time when I'm out and will share the results!
This was super helpful, both exposition-wise and post-processing-wise. This is the first time I'm hearing about StarNet, very curious about the results after I've tested it out
That's great to hear, thanks! Let me know how your result turn out!
@@StarScaperPhoto Works like a charm!
@@Senki207 nice, great to hear!
Very interesting video and helpful thanks. Has got me thinking about how I do things and wondering if I can improve. In general though I personally feel it's better to lose a bit of star colour in exchange for gaining a lot of airglow and better snr. I wonder if one solution is stacking or shooting a separate star layer? My histogram is usually in the middle or even slightly exposed to the right but I'll have to look into this topic more.
Thanks Brendan! There's something to be said prioritising airglow/MW detail in stead of star color. Tracking at lower ISO's helps a lot to gain more dynamic range, retaining more star color and gaining more dust detail at the same time. I've also heard people shooting a separate star layer, although I have never tried it myself.
Thanks for the video. My issue is that while the images in my device have colours in stars as they normally do.
But as soon as i upload in somewhere, say instagram, the colours are lost and the stars are back to being white.
How do you get around this? Is there any solution for it?
Thanks.
Good question actually. I have also noticed that some social media destroy your fine quality by compressing the images. Instagram has a pretty harsh compression in particular, other social media apps compress less. I am not all too worried about it however, since I have the original files and can show them in full res on my screen. Besides I don't expect instagram users to pixel peep that much. You can always share them uncompressed on an own website or other picture portfolio portals like Flickr if you'd like.
For Mac users: you might want to check this video to help out: ruclips.net/video/km4wKo8P50s/видео.html I don't know yet how to get the GUI working, but it works as described in the video from the link
Thanks for the extra info for.mac users!