GREAT tutorial! Addition though:To remove the need for the save and undo stuff. Make all of your slices and put all of your pins in place WITHOUT doing the boolean union yet. Then select all of your pins and Duplicate them. Then reselect and toggle their visibility. This will leave one set of pins visible, and one set invisible. Go and join each pin to the one side, then reverse your visibility and you'll have all of the exact same pin pieces available to do the holes.
That's actually the process I typically use. At the time of recording this video I thought that step would be a bit confusing... But quite a few people have said they figured it out on their own while following my video. So I think I'll do an updated video on this with that and some other tricks I left out for fear of being overwhelming..... Thanks for the feedback I really appreciate it!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay your assessment was correct. This process is easier for beginners (like me) to grasp, even if the other was is better once you’re more familiar with the functions.
I know this is an older video. I get as far as saving off the file with the key. When I go back in and hit cntrl z. I get 3 parts but the key or the square is never by it's self and I am unable to do the 2nd part. What could I be doing wrong????
I don't see this comment a million times so: Boolean basically means "true/false", it's computer language that in this case means the computer is looking for where the models either intersect, or where they don't intersect, and either keeping or removing the areas of intersection.
gosh ive been having a terrible time with slicing a model with multiple shells, keeps making it cut say the outside layer instead of all the way through, could you please do a tutorial on merging that or however you deal with it!
Hmm that does sound frustrating. It sounds like there may be issues with the model. That's normally what causes odd issues like what you're experiencing. Try running the model through the process in the below video. Let me know if that resolves the issue. ruclips.net/video/ai5ZjGFS29A/видео.html
not really sure how I got here because I wasn't looking for how to do this, but this is one of the best tutorials that I have ever seen. Great job explaining everything and showing more than one way to do something. Definitely earned a sub :)
There are many videos of separating a model into multiple parts... Yet no videos on how to align the keys and put the model back together... any tips?!
@@xmavrekx8663 the main reason for that is because it's not an easy process. There isn't much use in making a video for something you can provide any help with. If you're lucky, when you bring all the separated files into Meshmixer they will snap into place. However, that only happens when the creator of the files saves them with positioning data and in the correct positions. That's not often the case unfortunately... I'll look into it and see if I can find any helpful tips for combining parts together.
Hmm I've not encountered that issue before. Do you have two monitors or something like that? Maybe the object viewer window was moved off screen and now that's why you can't see it when you show or hide it.
This seems to work for only a couple of alignment pins. I have a model where I am trying to break it up using 12 alignment pins but meshmixer can only handle 4. Any more than that and it gets extremely slow to process and eventually freezes.
What do I do if trying to use those boolean difference settings gives an invalid preview (red) and fatal error if I try to apply anyway? If it matters, I've got 3 keys combined as one object to make the 3 necessary voids all at once.
Hmm I've not encountered this myself. Is it possible that the file had errors to begin with? That could certainly cause Meshmixer to have problems when trying to edit the file.
I have a problem. I have an STL file of a dragon in a lot of parts and i want assemble it, but when i put all the parts in meshmixer, there aren't in the right place for combine it. There is a trick? Thanks
This was a bit overkill for my usage. I'm looking for a way to split a tool into two pieces while making a split that is easy to join together when assembling the model. The object is more like a straight square stick. There must be an easier program to use for that, that has presets that can figure out how to do the cut automatically?
There may be a program like what you're looking for. However, this is the only program (so far) that I've used for cutting/splitting models. Let me know if you find something that works for you!
I have a print that has around 100 shells I'm not kidding, so when I slice it I get a huge list and I can't find my slices. Is there a way to merge it?
Wow I can definitely understand how that could get overwhelming! There are two different process for merging different parts together in Meshmixer. #1, the Combine option is fine for most situations, but it will be undone by the Separate Shells function. So if you're planning on doing that a lot then the Combine option isn't super helpful. #2, Boolean Union. This function will merge the parts together permanently. It will not me undone by the Separate Shells function. However, it requires a bit more processing power from your computer. So don't try to merge too many parts at once or else you might crash your PC.
I appreciate the heads up! It's weird. About 1 in 50 people tell me the audio in my videos is too low. While the other 49 say it's fine... I'm wondering if maybe it's the way I'm proceeding my audio. Maybe certain systems don't like it.... Did you watch this on your phone, PC, or something else?
There are a few reasons why that could happen. You can (hopefully) get around it by using the "Combine" option instead. With the pin it's not necessary to use the Boolean Union function. Let me know if that works.
I totally agree. When I first made this tutorial I thought doing it this way would be easier to follow. However, I hadn't considered the extra stress that the undo function would put on a PC.. In retrospect, explaining how to make copies of the object would have been a better idea... But thanks for the feedback! I'm glad you enjoyed the tutorial overall.
Click on the gear icon at the top right of the screen. Then select "Highest Picture Quality." It's blurry because your resolution is auto set to be very low to save data.
Sorry I couldn't find it, but do you have anything that shows how to COMBINE separated models (like a giant model that has body, arms, and base as separate models) with alignment pins? I find I don't want to glue parts together, and my print bed is big enough, so I'd rather align and put the models together as one big model and then print. Just newbie to Meshmixer and trying to figure out how best to get those parts aligned again.
hi Why did I cut and slice my model into pieces with Meshmixer and then put the pieces together vertically in Cura, there were approximately 24 pieces that I was able to prepare for printing in 3 times in Cura, i.e. in 3 stl files, my problem is that I printed the first layer It is printed like a net, which means that it is not like my other prints that the first layer is correct, clean and smooth, what is the problem? I have adjusted my models from left to right and horizontal to vertical to fit more in Cura
Hmm that's a new one on me... I think I might know what's going on... Can you try increasing the size of the object browser window? It's possible the end of the file name (where the eye symbol is) is behind the border.... If not, can you send me a screenshot on Facebook? I should be able to help faster that way.
i have a problem that when i cut the model, the inside is empty so i cant add the alignment cube! Do you have any reccomendations on that ? Thanks in advance and keep up!!
Hey there! So I have two things you can try. #1, at the 6 minute mark in this video I talk about moving the cutting plane. I do this to make sure that the cut I make is going to leave two solid edges. #2, it's possible that there are internal errors in the model you're working with. You can try repairing the model in 3D Builder to see of it resolves the issue you're seeing. You can follow the steps in this video to learn how to repair your model in 3D Builder. ruclips.net/video/ai5ZjGFS29A/видео.html
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Can i ask one more thing ? When i throw on the model the cube or cylinder, its not centered and flat on my cut! hwo to align it ? ;/
8:10 i am working and waching tutorials for exact that problem. Is adding more parts to "object review" so i have to hide it to keep the part i want and import it as STL. But i found other problem wich is "hole" in the print. i cant get flat surface when i make the cut. So i cant put pins for alignment. i try inventor, fusion 360, and mesh mixer. and i want to stay with meshmixer because i like to use 2nd click to move the object, is more easy to me than fusion360.
@@Celldweller455 likely because that model was exported in a way to make it the smallest file size possible. Look up how to Ramesh in Meshmixer. That should help.
by adding the cube like this with drag and drop on the plane surface, it is not jumping exactly with the cubes bottom surface excatly on top of the plane surface? I think it dives into the plan surface ? is there a command to drop the cube, that the cube bottom surface is right on the flat plane (not diving into it)
Having an issue when I plane cut, I see a bunch or shells in object browser but not the two halves I was trying to cut. How do I fix so when I cut, I just see the two parts?
Hmm without seeing what you're seeing I can't really offer much help. Try the advice in this video and see if it helps. If not please join my Facebook group or Discord Server and post a video so I can see what you're seeing.
Very nice tutorial. You mentioned you didn't know why it was called union. Booleans come from boolean logic, which at its core is a comparison operator that compares two binary values and gives you another one based on boolean math functions such as AND, OR.and XOR. Boolean operations on a 3D model normally have 3 basic outcomes; union, difference, and intersection. Union means when the comparison is done, it returns both models as one, thus creating a union of two separate models. The boolean function for this is an OR operation. Difference, of course, returns one model with any intersecting geometry from the other model subtracted away from it. This is what is known as an XOR function(exclusive OR), meaning you can only have one or the other, not both at the same time, thus any intersecting volume is deleted. And finally, Intersection returns only the geometry where both models intersect each other. This is a boolean AND function).
I really appreciate the in depth response! I was mostly joking, but I definitely won't pretend I knew all of that before reading you comment... Thanks for the awesome info!
So the Boolean Union isn't required. Instead use the "Combine" option that should be listed in the window that pops up when you select two different models. Using the Combine feature rather than the Bullion Union feature requires a lot less computing power so it shouldn't cause that error, but you'll get the same result. It's my fault for not recommending that process in the first place. Sorry about that.
It's not just you. About 1 in 10 people say that about the audio, but the other 9 say it's fine. I haven't been able to figure out why it's an issue for only some people.
@@bluestriker2455 I've got one other idea. However, it's tough to explain what I think is going on. Could you join my Facebook group or Discord Server and post a picture of the cut you're trying to make?
Thank you for this!!! Just got my first 3d printer and wanted to learn how to do this. As for what you said in the video if you haven't already could you create a video about having the different shells and making them into one? The model I was going to use this for ended up with 6 different shells and they are small little pieces. I'm trying to figure out how to attach them to the main body part to print as one of the halves. Thanks in advance!! And nevermind found it in your next video!! Thank you!!
any idea what might be causing meshmixer to lock up when i change settings in the boolean union box to what you tell us to set to. I went as far as putting a simple pin in meshmixer and plane cutting and trying this in case model was messing up but it still locked up. i have a capable computer so i wouldnt think its that but honestly im at a loss.
It could be any number of things. Unfortunately, Meshmixer is no longer being updated or supported by its creators. So it's possible that it's just having compatibility issues. Just as a test, try running it with the default settings. So without changing any of the sliders are other values.
@SlicePrintRoleplay ok will do thanks! Anything 3d print related I tell anybody that asks you are goto. Hopefully you gain alot more subscribes and likes!
@@Dominus66 Glad to hear the video was helpful. You are very welcome! Oh that makes sense, I should have thought to ask that.. There is a trick you can use that will let you do multiple pins at once. I talk about it in this video. ruclips.net/video/2aoJUkE8nJg/видео.html
Great tutorial. I have a question about my problem. I downloaded a file of an action figure with the body already divided and the pins already created. Checking the model before printing, I noticed that the files of both arms are not the right proportions. The rest of the body is right. Is there a way to bring them to the right size?
So I've been asked that question quite a few times. The answer is, I thought it would be less confusing to explain it the way I did in the video. However, that was an error on my part. Creating another copy and hiding it is a much better solution and puts less stress on your PC. I'll definitely correct this in a future video. Thanks for the feedback!
Great Tutorial. Now how do I do this in reverse? Most pre-keyed models are for small print beds. I would like to put the back together to print in one piece.
That can certainly be done, but takes some time and patience. Lots of adjustments to get all the parts to fit correctly... Then I'd recommend using the "Combined" function. As with everything else in life it's easier to cut models up than it is to put them back together.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay oh thank you for the quick reply. I'm still in the infancy stage of meshmixer. I guess the problem is at somepoint I kind of want to permanently fuse a piece together but if I hit seperate shells the entire model comes apart even if I chose to combine shells.
when i try to do the hollow, i select the square part, do the transforme and than that's a shit hole... when a try to do the 3.3, 4.4 and 3.3.... i cant do it, the program doesnt accepte 3.3 number. i need to put 3,3 and that's bug that become a 0 and the cube disapear... anyone have an idea ? i have done the tutorial with the troll model...
When you hit transform and enter numbers are you making sure "Uniform scaling." Is unchecked? Also on the window that comes up when you hit transform, what options are selected at the very bottom of the window?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay uniform scaling is unchecked... Enable snapping is unchecked too. Absolute coords/sizes is checked but deactivated. the coordinate space is at Local Frame. the only way i have to enter a dot in the size is to put the size to 33mm to put a dot in the scale... and then to use the dot in the scale to put 1.1 in that way to get the 3.3 in the size... its a little strange.
@@rolemoica6983 that's really odd.. I might be missing something obvious though. Would you be able to get a screen shot or video and upload it to the Facebook group? I can take a look and see if I can help figure it out.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay @tommy doyon Hi, I have the same very strange behaviour. I am not able to put in any "." in the fields of Transform. Also the way described by tommy doyon is only working for 1 field an then no other field works. I am now already very frustrated. Is this problem already solved or addressed?
@@Dominus66 oh okay that makes sense. Yes I have definitely done that before. Sometimes it's easier than having the pin attached. Just follow the general rule that you want the pin to be a little smaller than the hole and it should all fit together great.
I would like to see a video showing how to deal with a model with many shells. I see this alot and it makes adding alignment pins very difficult. Thank you
Would you by chance have a specific thingiverse model you had that issue with? Just so I can make sure it's as accurate to your requests as possible. If you don't mind you can message me on Facebook or on the Facebook group. I'm always happy to help with stuff like this.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay im having the same issue, i have a model i want to print too big for my printer but its 219 shells when i try to cut it and its just very overwhelming
@@SlicePrintRoleplay www.thingiverse.com/thing:4165316 this is the one im trying, the pose doesnt make it easy either, ill keep my eyes peeled for you video though, this one was really helpful
Thank you so much for this! I was able to successfully cut a model I was working with which will allow me to handle the piece I cut differently than the rest of the model. I do have a request, though. If you haven't already could you please put out a video on how to work with a model that has lots and lots of shells? I have a particular model that has 245! And I want to be able to cut it up, too, but it is way too complicated. Anyway, thank you again!
Hi there. Thank you very much for the tutorial. Unfortunatly, I have the problem you mentioned: When I click seperate shell, I end up with a quadrillion different shells. Could you tell me how to solve this problem? Cheers! Leon
You are very welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful! Ugh that can be a pretty big pain! In this video I explain how to handle a model with tons of shells. It should help you get a better handle on the process, but if you have any questions just let me know. ruclips.net/video/2aoJUkE8nJg/видео.html
Fantastic video! Square pegs.... that is genius! Thank you for taking the time to explain this so very well. Boolean/Bouillon... you crack me up. Congrats on the new goblin!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I am taking about the ones other people make. I guess they were made for FDM printers. I did find that mesh mixer does put some sliced models back together automatically as you open them.
@@laartwork Ah okay thanks for clarifying that! Yeah it really depends on how the models where set up. For FDM I don't go smaller than 0.03. That usually works for resin as well, but you could possibly go smaller if your resin doesn't bloom much. And yeah as long as the parts where saved with their coordinate information then they will automatically import into the correct locations. It's awesome when that's the case!
I love how this shows up an hour after I decided that I would just manually align my part after printing cuz I couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t working lol
awesome tutorial but for some reason my individual pieces weren't flush with each other. one always had a slight overhang, not sure if it could have been my slicer maybe? not sure if anyone else had this happen
Is there any chance you can send me a picture of what you're talking about? I'd like to understand the issue better. You are welcome to use Facebook, Instagram, Discord, and Gmail.
Is there a way to specify the width and depth of the tool used to create the pocket and also have a snap to grid option? I've been using Tinkercad to make magnet pockets in 1/200th scale WWII warbirds but it is limited in the number of polygons it can use so the finish on the plane isn't as smooth as I would like it. If I do it in Meshmixer the model will be much more smooth and import into the slicer better.
Hey sorry for the super late replay, but I never got a notification for this comment. Since you are creating the object that will be used to create the pocket you can make that object whatever size you want. At the 10:07 mark, I show how to adjust the size of the object used to create the pocket. That would be how you would set the width and depth. Just remember that only half of the object's length would be inside the model. So if you make the length 3mm then you'll have 1.5mm inside the model and 1.5mm sticking out. I am not sure about a snap to grid option.
Would highly suggest an updated video showing multiple pins/voids on the same model. Trying to learn this for a wall set piece that requires several cuts, but it’s daunting.
I can certainly make some updated videos. I've learned a lot about Meshmixer since making this video. But I do have a video that will probably help you with that process. ruclips.net/video/2aoJUkE8nJg/видео.html
hi there, it is necessary to just export the model not the plattform (for example in miniature model you got the main characters as exaple and a round platform to stay in place)? do I need to expor my own models in this app ? and not the plattform . thx.
I apologize, but I'm not sure I quite understand the question. If you're asking if it's possible to remove a model from its base (the platform it sets on). Then yes that's absolutely possible in Meshmixer. One of my earlier videos covers that topic. If that's not your question then would you mind asking in a different way?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I used to model separate the main character from the plattform or holding place, I am looking for tecnnique such as keying or separate pieces for miniatures... I use zbrush and soem stuff , but not have enough experience in 3D printing world.
@@leatherandpoemscharmyman5774 ah okay I understand. You could very easily key a model to fit into any base using the method I cover in this video. Simple bring in the base then bring in the model. Then do this for both the base and the model. Select/click on the the object and hit "Transform" from the options on the left. Then hit "Align" Once you do that for both models you'll need to select your mini and lift it up till you can see the feet rise above the base. Adjust the position of the mini until its feet are just touching the base. Then use the method I cover in this video to create keys/alignment pins. If you have any questions let me know. "How to key a model on a base." is one of many videos on my list to cover.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay it would be interesting a tutorial with meshmixer to put the plattform and the charater,... maybe I go for blender to center both meshes and then re export them back to mesh mixer and hit the alight button as you said... Do I need to creat keying for base? (some hole in the plattform and some key in the foot of my character? thx.
@@leatherandpoemscharmyman5774 you don't have to create a key if the surface of the base is flat superglue works on most models. However adding a key will make it a much stronger connection.
Great video. Yours was the first to make this seemingly simple task make sense. As common as the need to cut larger models into smaller ones for later reassembly, why is this not an integrated feature in modern slicers?
I'm glad you found the video helpful and easy to follow. I think that editing models isn't too common in 3D printing at large. But in certain 3D printing subsets it's very common. I also think it takes a lot more effort to add model editing options to a slicer... So I hope it's something we see in the future, but for now Meshmixer is a great option. Thanks for your positive feedback and the great question!
You could try the process without changing the settings. If it still crashes then you'll know it's the program/an issue with hardware. Unfortunately, Meshmixer is no longer supported which is such a huge bummer. That means we will see more issues has time goes on. 😞
@@SlicePrintRoleplay it was an error on my part so i noticed when changing values you have to hit enter on each one once changed or it will try to change all at once when you hit apply and will cause the crash
Sorry it's an unnecessary step that I thought would be easier, but I realize it's not the best method. Instead of undoing the steps, just create a another copy of the pin and hide it using the browser window. Does that make sense?
Just finished this and trying slice up a helmet but whenever I do the Boolean difference my laptop freezes up. It does the union with no issues. Can’t seem to figure this out.
What are the specs of your laptop? It's possible Meshmixer is crashing your laptop during that function. A Boolean difference is a much more difficult process than a Boolean union.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I think that is the problem. My laptop is 6 years old. If I slice up the model into smaller parts first and then attempt it, do you think that would help? The helmet is pretty big and detailed. The part I was trying to key it with is a small jewel. I have to split the helmet anyway to fit the printer.
@@BillMedlin71 it may help yes.... It also may help if you stop any unnecessary background processes your computer might be doing. Do you know how to do that?
That can definitely be frustrating! In that case I usually just manually adjust until it's as close to flat on the surface as possible. If it's off by a little it won't matter much because it should be off in the same way on the corresponding part/half... Does that make sense?
Thank you - your walk-thru was very EASY to follow and I was able to split a large object into multiple parts for my new resin printer!!! Keep up the Great Work!!!!!!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay thanks this video helped out a lot. I just got me a resin printer I have owned a 3-D printer for over a year now, but never put pins on a project before I’ve always printed them completely sliced and had a fight with assembly. Thank you for the video.
I have been trying to do just a simple plane cut on a flat almost cube model just to test out meshmixer, but while trying your settings I get stuck on refining while lowering the target edge scale to 0.25. How long should expect to wait before I should assume something is wrong because its been 10 minutes so far. My PC specs in case they help. i7 - 10th gen Rtx 2070 16gb ram
Hmm that is a bit odd. 10 minutes should be plenty of time to work through most cuts. How large is the model? Is it possible that the model has internal geometry issues? If so that can be really hard for Meshmixer to figure out.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay it is about 250mm cubed which is big but not anything massive. I found out that I needed to remesh first with a linear subdivision and density at 50% to create more triangles on the surfaces. There wasn’t enough to do any boolean functions.
Try cutting a different area a little bit away from where you're cutting. It could be that you're cutting an area that has lots of complex meshes and it's giving you that error.
Why back when I first posted the v I had one it two people say the same thing. But everyone else said it was fine. So unfortunately, I'm not really sure what's causing that.
Fantastic Turorial. Im currently making Starwars helments for my sons cosplay and Im new to 3D Printing. Love meshmixer so much. Can this same process work when I slice the hemlmet into 8 pieces to fit on my Ender 3Pro bed. Anything I need to work out. Im guessing make 2 points on each side?? Unfortunately already printed before I came across your channel, Just working out for the next one. Your right a nightmare joining them without doing this
Thanks you so much for the feedback and I'm glad you're finding the video helpful! That's so cool! Both my sons are too young to want to cosplay, but I'm excited for when they do! Yes I think at least two pins on bigger models would be a good idea to keep it strong and aligned correctly. I'd love to see pictures of what you're working on if you'd be willing to post on the group, but if not definitely let me know here how it goes!
a shortcut to this is to make a duplicate and hide the duplicate of the cube before doing the union. so you don't have to undo everything. then you can unhide the cube and then hide the body when you do the next step.
That is absolutely a better option. When I created this video I thought the process of creating a second pin and hiding it would be more difficult. However, I failed to consider the computing power that reversing pervious operations would take. When I update this video I will definitely correct that!
That's is definitely an option. You can also use the "Combine" fiction as the pines don't require a complex remesh like the holes do. The holes are typically where people run into computing issues... But a great suggestion all the same!
That's probably the best compliment I've ever gotten... Thank you! I also appreciate that a lot because I try to have that same teaching style in my videos. I usually try to tell people to follow along at home. 😊
well, the settings at 12:18 - you said it's super important to get right and to use them all the time. Just wondering why Preview Iterations is set to 18 and not I dunno... 20 :) The tutorial is great btw - I'm using it right now ;)
@@RedKasst oh doh! 🤦♂️ Sorry I was totally spacing on that setting name. I mainly recommend 18 rather than 20 just to take a little bit of load off your CPU. It's a slight adjustment, but on bigger/more complex models it can make a difference. But if you want to use 20 then that certainly won't be an issue. Really good question! I'm so glad you're finding it helpful and thank you for the positive feedback!
ah, nothing much - just pins for the LAAT/i Gunship floor: imgur.com/hw2kfx0 got the files from Gambody and trying to print it @ 200% scale to fit 3.75 Clone Trooper figures :D
I actually haven't don't much testing with adding my own keys to resin models. But I'd say .1mm or .1.5mm. It will really depend on how much the resin you're using blooms during printing. It may be worth testing before you key a full model.
GREAT tutorial! Addition though:To remove the need for the save and undo stuff. Make all of your slices and put all of your pins in place WITHOUT doing the boolean union yet. Then select all of your pins and Duplicate them. Then reselect and toggle their visibility. This will leave one set of pins visible, and one set invisible. Go and join each pin to the one side, then reverse your visibility and you'll have all of the exact same pin pieces available to do the holes.
That's actually the process I typically use. At the time of recording this video I thought that step would be a bit confusing... But quite a few people have said they figured it out on their own while following my video. So I think I'll do an updated video on this with that and some other tricks I left out for fear of being overwhelming..... Thanks for the feedback I really appreciate it!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay your assessment was correct. This process is easier for beginners (like me) to grasp, even if the other was is better once you’re more familiar with the functions.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay one year later lol I’d love to see the faster way
@@TheIronNoodle I seocnd this
almost 2 yars later and im looking at this confused
Boullion is the small cubes you use to season soups.
@@Mre942 yes exactly! And they are delicious. 😊
I know this is an older video. I get as far as saving off the file with the key. When I go back in and hit cntrl z. I get 3 parts but the key or the square is never by it's self and I am unable to do the 2nd part. What could I be doing wrong????
Once you have the pin created and it's still a separate object you can also duplicate it so you don't have to undo the merge with the body
Yep that is another good option for sure!
Hero!
I don't see this comment a million times so:
Boolean basically means "true/false", it's computer language that in this case means the computer is looking for where the models either intersect, or where they don't intersect, and either keeping or removing the areas of intersection.
gosh ive been having a terrible time with slicing a model with multiple shells, keeps making it cut say the outside layer instead of all the way through, could you please do a tutorial on merging that or however you deal with it!
Hmm that does sound frustrating. It sounds like there may be issues with the model. That's normally what causes odd issues like what you're experiencing. Try running the model through the process in the below video. Let me know if that resolves the issue.
ruclips.net/video/ai5ZjGFS29A/видео.html
not really sure how I got here because I wasn't looking for how to do this, but this is one of the best tutorials that I have ever seen. Great job explaining everything and showing more than one way to do something. Definitely earned a sub :)
Haha that's the power of the internet!
Thank you so much I really appreciate it!
There are many videos of separating a model into multiple parts... Yet no videos on how to align the keys and put the model back together... any tips?!
@@xmavrekx8663 the main reason for that is because it's not an easy process. There isn't much use in making a video for something you can provide any help with.
If you're lucky, when you bring all the separated files into Meshmixer they will snap into place. However, that only happens when the creator of the files saves them with positioning data and in the correct positions. That's not often the case unfortunately... I'll look into it and see if I can find any helpful tips for combining parts together.
Object browser disappeared. I tried show and hide in view and it is still not appearing. How do I bring this back? This might be a start over...bummer
Hmm I've not encountered that issue before. Do you have two monitors or something like that? Maybe the object viewer window was moved off screen and now that's why you can't see it when you show or hide it.
I followed these instructions perfectly, I opened my model in lychee and it's got 16,000 holes and looks stretched out, how can I fix this
Hmm that's really strange. Maybe try taking it into 3D Builder and see if it identifies any errors.
This seems to work for only a couple of alignment pins. I have a model where I am trying to break it up using 12 alignment pins but meshmixer can only handle 4. Any more than that and it gets extremely slow to process and eventually freezes.
So I think the process I talk at (roughly) the 5:40 mark in the video below will help you out.
ruclips.net/video/2aoJUkE8nJg/видео.html
What do I do if trying to use those boolean difference settings gives an invalid preview (red) and fatal error if I try to apply anyway? If it matters, I've got 3 keys combined as one object to make the 3 necessary voids all at once.
Hmm I've not encountered this myself. Is it possible that the file had errors to begin with? That could certainly cause Meshmixer to have problems when trying to edit the file.
I have a problem. I have an STL file of a dragon in a lot of parts and i want assemble it, but when i put all the parts in meshmixer, there aren't in the right place for combine it. There is a trick? Thanks
I wish there was an easy way to do that, but unfortunately there isn't. At least not that I'm aware of. 😔
This was a bit overkill for my usage. I'm looking for a way to split a tool into two pieces while making a split that is easy to join together when assembling the model. The object is more like a straight square stick. There must be an easier program to use for that, that has presets that can figure out how to do the cut automatically?
There may be a program like what you're looking for. However, this is the only program (so far) that I've used for cutting/splitting models.
Let me know if you find something that works for you!
Boolean basically means true/false. In programming is would be appear as an IF statement, so like IF (something ) TRUE, THEN do (X) else do (Y)
I have a print that has around 100 shells I'm not kidding, so when I slice it I get a huge list and I can't find my slices.
Is there a way to merge it?
Wow I can definitely understand how that could get overwhelming!
There are two different process for merging different parts together in Meshmixer.
#1, the Combine option is fine for most situations, but it will be undone by the Separate Shells function. So if you're planning on doing that a lot then the Combine option isn't super helpful.
#2, Boolean Union. This function will merge the parts together permanently. It will not me undone by the Separate Shells function.
However, it requires a bit more processing power from your computer. So don't try to merge too many parts at once or else you might crash your PC.
FYI, the sound volume is really low - gotta turn it way up compared to other videos.
I appreciate the heads up!
It's weird. About 1 in 50 people tell me the audio in my videos is too low. While the other 49 say it's fine... I'm wondering if maybe it's the way I'm proceeding my audio. Maybe certain systems don't like it.... Did you watch this on your phone, PC, or something else?
I keep getting a fatal error message when I try and create the union between the peg and one of the sliced halves? You know why that is?
There are a few reasons why that could happen. You can (hopefully) get around it by using the "Combine" option instead. With the pin it's not necessary to use the Boolean Union function.
Let me know if that works.
You can just copy the cube instead of using undo and whatnot. Nice tutorial though.
I totally agree. When I first made this tutorial I thought doing it this way would be easier to follow. However, I hadn't considered the extra stress that the undo function would put on a PC.. In retrospect, explaining how to make copies of the object would have been a better idea... But thanks for the feedback! I'm glad you enjoyed the tutorial overall.
settings are blury on screen can you post the settings for the boolean union please
Click on the gear icon at the top right of the screen. Then select "Highest Picture Quality."
It's blurry because your resolution is auto set to be very low to save data.
Sorry I couldn't find it, but do you have anything that shows how to COMBINE separated models (like a giant model that has body, arms, and base as separate models) with alignment pins? I find I don't want to glue parts together, and my print bed is big enough, so I'd rather align and put the models together as one big model and then print. Just newbie to Meshmixer and trying to figure out how best to get those parts aligned again.
hi Why did I cut and slice my model into pieces with Meshmixer and then put the pieces together vertically in Cura, there were approximately 24 pieces that I was able to prepare for printing in 3 times in Cura, i.e. in 3 stl files, my problem is that I printed the first layer It is printed like a net, which means that it is not like my other prints that the first layer is correct, clean and smooth, what is the problem? I have adjusted my models from left to right and horizontal to vertical to fit more in Cura
It's difficult for me to understand the issue without seeing it. Could you join my Facebook group and post pictures there?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay i send it on dicotd
Help! The eye icon disappears from my object browser when I separate shells? I'm stuck without being able to make one shell disappear.
Hmm that's a new one on me... I think I might know what's going on... Can you try increasing the size of the object browser window? It's possible the end of the file name (where the eye symbol is) is behind the border.... If not, can you send me a screenshot on Facebook? I should be able to help faster that way.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay You nailed it! The name in my file is so long that it cut it off. Thank you!!!
have you done a video on how to align a already cut model back to make it one piece ?
I have not, but a few people have requested it. I'll definitely try to get one made soon.
i have a problem that when i cut the model, the inside is empty so i cant add the alignment cube! Do you have any reccomendations on that ? Thanks in advance and keep up!!
Hey there! So I have two things you can try.
#1, at the 6 minute mark in this video I talk about moving the cutting plane. I do this to make sure that the cut I make is going to leave two solid edges.
#2, it's possible that there are internal errors in the model you're working with. You can try repairing the model in 3D Builder to see of it resolves the issue you're seeing.
You can follow the steps in this video to learn how to repair your model in 3D Builder.
ruclips.net/video/ai5ZjGFS29A/видео.html
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Can i ask one more thing ? When i throw on the model the cube or cylinder, its not centered and flat on my cut! hwo to align it ? ;/
8:10 i am working and waching tutorials for exact that problem.
Is adding more parts to "object review" so i have to hide it to keep the part i want and import it as STL.
But i found other problem wich is "hole" in the print. i cant get flat surface when i make the cut. So i cant put pins for alignment. i try inventor, fusion 360, and mesh mixer. and i want to stay with meshmixer because i like to use 2nd click to move the object, is more easy to me than fusion360.
Why is it that when I use the select tool it gives a jagged appearance on one section? Using a different model than this one
@@Celldweller455 likely because that model was exported in a way to make it the smallest file size possible. Look up how to Ramesh in Meshmixer. That should help.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Thanks! That did the trick! Thanks for the video as well! Easy to follow!
@@Celldweller455 awesome I'm really glad to hear that! And of course, you are very welcome. 😊
by adding the cube like this with drag and drop on the plane surface, it is not jumping exactly with the cubes bottom surface excatly on top of the plane surface? I think it dives into the plan surface ? is there a command to drop the cube, that the cube bottom surface is right on the flat plane (not diving into it)
This was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
You are very welcome! I'm really glad you found it helpful!
Having an issue when I plane cut, I see a bunch or shells in object browser but not the two halves I was trying to cut. How do I fix so when I cut, I just see the two parts?
Hmm without seeing what you're seeing I can't really offer much help.
Try the advice in this video and see if it helps.
If not please join my Facebook group or Discord Server and post a video so I can see what you're seeing.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I figured it out. Instead of placing “plane cut” inside of the selected area, I was outside of it. Should’ve had a v8. lol 😝
@@shellumus "Well there's your problem!" haha.
Glad you figured it out.
Very nice tutorial. You mentioned you didn't know why it was called union. Booleans come from boolean logic, which at its core is a comparison operator that compares two binary values and gives you another one based on boolean math functions such as AND, OR.and XOR. Boolean operations on a 3D model normally have 3 basic outcomes; union, difference, and intersection.
Union means when the comparison is done, it returns both models as one, thus creating a union of two separate models. The boolean function for this is an OR operation.
Difference, of course, returns one model with any intersecting geometry from the other model subtracted away from it. This is what is known as an XOR function(exclusive OR), meaning you can only have one or the other, not both at the same time, thus any intersecting volume is deleted.
And finally, Intersection returns only the geometry where both models intersect each other. This is a boolean AND function).
I really appreciate the in depth response! I was mostly joking, but I definitely won't pretend I knew all of that before reading you comment... Thanks for the awesome info!
Amazing, this changes so many things for me. My printing options are expanded so much now.
That's awesome to hear!
If you want to post in the Facebook group I'd love to see what you do with this technique!
Help! When I try to do a Boolean Unit, it says, "An unknown fatal error has occured in the current Tool. Aborting."
So the Boolean Union isn't required. Instead use the "Combine" option that should be listed in the window that pops up when you select two different models.
Using the Combine feature rather than the Bullion Union feature requires a lot less computing power so it shouldn't cause that error, but you'll get the same result.
It's my fault for not recommending that process in the first place. Sorry about that.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay thank you!
@@christiepearce6553 you are very welcome!
is it just me or the audio is like super low?
It's not just you. About 1 in 10 people say that about the audio, but the other 9 say it's fine. I haven't been able to figure out why it's an issue for only some people.
I must be doing something wrong as models arnt separating after plane cut still stay as one
Just to confirm, you are Separating Shells after making the cut?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay yeah I’ve done it once before successfully but now it won’t work for some reason
@@bluestriker2455 I've got one other idea. However, it's tough to explain what I think is going on. Could you join my Facebook group or Discord Server and post a picture of the cut you're trying to make?
This was incredible. Thank you so much; you have revolutionized my workflow in Meshmixer.
I am so glad to hear that you found it so helpful!
Thank you for this!!! Just got my first 3d printer and wanted to learn how to do this.
As for what you said in the video if you haven't already could you create a video about having the different shells and making them into one?
The model I was going to use this for ended up with 6 different shells and they are small little pieces. I'm trying to figure out how to attach them to the main body part to print as one of the halves. Thanks in advance!!
And nevermind found it in your next video!! Thank you!!
any idea what might be causing meshmixer to lock up when i change settings in the boolean union box to what you tell us to set to. I went as far as putting a simple pin in meshmixer and plane cutting and trying this in case model was messing up but it still locked up. i have a capable computer so i wouldnt think its that but honestly im at a loss.
It could be any number of things. Unfortunately, Meshmixer is no longer being updated or supported by its creators. So it's possible that it's just having compatibility issues.
Just as a test, try running it with the default settings. So without changing any of the sliders are other values.
@SlicePrintRoleplay ok will do thanks! Anything 3d print related I tell anybody that asks you are goto. Hopefully you gain alot more subscribes and likes!
@@jaspercallahan3318 I really appreciate that thank you! 💚
It must have updated because I don't have those options on a union, I have combined but still don't have those super important options :(
The combine option works just fine for this process so no worries there.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay it was because I was trying to do 2 different pins at the same time lol. Thanks for this guide. It all works perfectly
@@Dominus66 Glad to hear the video was helpful. You are very welcome!
Oh that makes sense, I should have thought to ask that.. There is a trick you can use that will let you do multiple pins at once. I talk about it in this video.
ruclips.net/video/2aoJUkE8nJg/видео.html
Great tutorial. I have a question about my problem.
I downloaded a file of an action figure with the body already divided and the pins already created. Checking the model before printing, I noticed that the files of both arms are not the right proportions. The rest of the body is right. Is there a way to bring them to the right size?
Why not just make a copy of the box after you resized it? Then hide it when working with one box.
So I've been asked that question quite a few times. The answer is, I thought it would be less confusing to explain it the way I did in the video. However, that was an error on my part. Creating another copy and hiding it is a much better solution and puts less stress on your PC. I'll definitely correct this in a future video.
Thanks for the feedback!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay great tutorial even tho 👍
@@iiinsaiii much appreciated! 💚
Great Tutorial. Now how do I do this in reverse? Most pre-keyed models are for small print beds. I would like to put the back together to print in one piece.
That can certainly be done, but takes some time and patience. Lots of adjustments to get all the parts to fit correctly... Then I'd recommend using the "Combined" function.
As with everything else in life it's easier to cut models up than it is to put them back together.
Did you ever make a video on merging the shells? It's a problem I run into quite a bit.
I did indeed make a video explaining how to separate and combine shells.
ruclips.net/video/sJiyUvsUvt8/видео.html
Let me know if that's what you were looking for.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay oh thank you for the quick reply. I'm still in the infancy stage of meshmixer. I guess the problem is at somepoint I kind of want to permanently fuse a piece together but if I hit seperate shells the entire model comes apart even if I chose to combine shells.
when i try to do the hollow, i select the square part, do the transforme and than that's a shit hole... when a try to do the 3.3, 4.4 and 3.3.... i cant do it, the program doesnt accepte 3.3 number. i need to put 3,3 and that's bug that become a 0 and the cube disapear... anyone have an idea ? i have done the tutorial with the troll model...
When you hit transform and enter numbers are you making sure "Uniform scaling." Is unchecked?
Also on the window that comes up when you hit transform, what options are selected at the very bottom of the window?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay uniform scaling is unchecked... Enable snapping is unchecked too. Absolute coords/sizes is checked but deactivated. the coordinate space is at Local Frame. the only way i have to enter a dot in the size is to put the size to 33mm to put a dot in the scale... and then to use the dot in the scale to put 1.1 in that way to get the 3.3 in the size... its a little strange.
@@rolemoica6983 that's really odd.. I might be missing something obvious though. Would you be able to get a screen shot or video and upload it to the Facebook group? I can take a look and see if I can help figure it out.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay @tommy doyon Hi, I have the same very strange behaviour. I am not able to put in any "." in the fields of Transform. Also the way described by tommy doyon is only working for 1 field an then no other field works. I am now already very frustrated. Is this problem already solved or addressed?
Have you had experience doing a double void and then printing a pin separately?
I'm not sure. Can you explain what you mean in another way? Or post some example pictures in the Slice Print Roleplay Facebook group?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay like doing a void on both parts instead of fusing the pin with one half. Then printing the pin as a separate piece.
@@Dominus66 oh okay that makes sense. Yes I have definitely done that before. Sometimes it's easier than having the pin attached.
Just follow the general rule that you want the pin to be a little smaller than the hole and it should all fit together great.
I would like to see a video showing how to deal with a model with many shells. I see this alot and it makes adding alignment pins very difficult.
Thank you
Would you by chance have a specific thingiverse model you had that issue with? Just so I can make sure it's as accurate to your requests as possible. If you don't mind you can message me on Facebook or on the Facebook group.
I'm always happy to help with stuff like this.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay im having the same issue, i have a model i want to print too big for my printer but its 219 shells when i try to cut it and its just very overwhelming
@@comfysocks7 I apologize for the delay, but I promise I am working on a video covering this topic in detail. I should have it done soon.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay www.thingiverse.com/thing:4165316 this is the one im trying, the pose doesnt make it easy either, ill keep my eyes peeled for you video though, this one was really helpful
Thank you so much for this! I was able to successfully cut a model I was working with which will allow me to handle the piece I cut differently than the rest of the model. I do have a request, though. If you haven't already could you please put out a video on how to work with a model that has lots and lots of shells? I have a particular model that has 245! And I want to be able to cut it up, too, but it is way too complicated. Anyway, thank you again!
Hi there. Thank you very much for the tutorial. Unfortunatly, I have the problem you mentioned: When I click seperate shell, I end up with a quadrillion different shells. Could you tell me how to solve this problem? Cheers! Leon
You are very welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful!
Ugh that can be a pretty big pain! In this video I explain how to handle a model with tons of shells. It should help you get a better handle on the process, but if you have any questions just let me know.
ruclips.net/video/2aoJUkE8nJg/видео.html
funfact: i visit the Castle in ur Wallpaper
Oh that's awesome! How was it?
It was pretty good
How do u save seperate stl file? I want to cut off a leg for example and save thañt in a seperate file not in the same file with the body?😊
Simply highlight that model (without highlighting any other files) and save it. 😊
Fantastic video! Square pegs.... that is genius! Thank you for taking the time to explain this so very well. Boolean/Bouillon... you crack me up. Congrats on the new goblin!
Very glad you found the video so helpful and entertaining!
Thank you he's doing great!
Thank you :))
My life is spent sanding down this keys. Resin expands and they never fit.
Even if you scale the pin so it's smaller than the hole?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I am taking about the ones other people make. I guess they were made for FDM printers. I did find that mesh mixer does put some sliced models back together automatically as you open them.
@@laartwork Ah okay thanks for clarifying that! Yeah it really depends on how the models where set up. For FDM I don't go smaller than 0.03. That usually works for resin as well, but you could possibly go smaller if your resin doesn't bloom much.
And yeah as long as the parts where saved with their coordinate information then they will automatically import into the correct locations. It's awesome when that's the case!
EXCELLENT Tutorial Congrats on your child! Thanks to your vid I'm going to make an R2-D2 BUT he will have a cylindrical pin so it can turn. Thanks
Aww thanks so much!
That sounds like an AWESOME project and I'm glad my tutorial helped you with it! ❤️
I love how this shows up an hour after I decided that I would just manually align my part after printing cuz I couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t working lol
Ugh I'm sorry this video didn't cross your path sooner. But hopefully this process will aid you with future models!
I'm very upset with the amount of time I have spent trying to do this in blender. In the words of Lucy, What a fool I've been, what a fool indeed.
Well I'm sorry you spent so much time on it, but I'm glad you found the video helpful! 😊
awesome tutorial but for some reason my individual pieces weren't flush with each other. one always had a slight overhang, not sure if it could have been my slicer maybe? not sure if anyone else had this happen
Is there any chance you can send me a picture of what you're talking about? I'd like to understand the issue better. You are welcome to use Facebook, Instagram, Discord, and Gmail.
I tried to make some pins for a 3d print,I copied the pins and found when they printed,it was too long and too wide to fit in the hole
Interesting. Is it possible that you scaled up the object you used to make the pin and not the one you used to make the hole?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay So I think I found out why the didn't fit,the video I watched didn't mention making the female plug larger
@@AsheCraftingCorner ah yeah that will do it. Well I'm glad you found my video then. 😊
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I wish I found yours first
Thank you :))
You are very welcome!
great tutorial, nice - clean - and straight forward. Thank you
Glad to hear you found it helpful. You are very welcome!
Is there a way to specify the width and depth of the tool used to create the pocket and also have a snap to grid option? I've been using Tinkercad to make magnet pockets in 1/200th scale WWII warbirds but it is limited in the number of polygons it can use so the finish on the plane isn't as smooth as I would like it. If I do it in Meshmixer the model will be much more smooth and import into the slicer better.
Hey sorry for the super late replay, but I never got a notification for this comment.
Since you are creating the object that will be used to create the pocket you can make that object whatever size you want. At the 10:07 mark, I show how to adjust the size of the object used to create the pocket. That would be how you would set the width and depth. Just remember that only half of the object's length would be inside the model. So if you make the length 3mm then you'll have 1.5mm inside the model and 1.5mm sticking out.
I am not sure about a snap to grid option.
Would highly suggest an updated video showing multiple pins/voids on the same model. Trying to learn this for a wall set piece that requires several cuts, but it’s daunting.
I can certainly make some updated videos. I've learned a lot about Meshmixer since making this video. But I do have a video that will probably help you with that process.
ruclips.net/video/2aoJUkE8nJg/видео.html
Thank you i can make my own garage kits now
Thanks.
You are very welcome.
for some reason my Object gets distorted once i accept a Boolean Union. Do you know any reason for that?
Can you explain a bit more or possibly send me a picture?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Yes. Do you have instagram maybe?
@@S0phisticatedZ0mbie yep its just Sliceprintroleplay
hi there, it is necessary to just export the model not the plattform (for example in miniature model you got the main characters as exaple and a round platform to stay in place)? do I need to expor my own models in this app ? and not the plattform . thx.
I apologize, but I'm not sure I quite understand the question.
If you're asking if it's possible to remove a model from its base (the platform it sets on). Then yes that's absolutely possible in Meshmixer. One of my earlier videos covers that topic.
If that's not your question then would you mind asking in a different way?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I used to model separate the main character from the plattform or holding place, I am looking for tecnnique such as keying or separate pieces for miniatures... I use zbrush and soem stuff , but not have enough experience in 3D printing world.
@@leatherandpoemscharmyman5774 ah okay I understand. You could very easily key a model to fit into any base using the method I cover in this video.
Simple bring in the base then bring in the model.
Then do this for both the base and the model.
Select/click on the the object and hit "Transform" from the options on the left.
Then hit "Align"
Once you do that for both models you'll need to select your mini and lift it up till you can see the feet rise above the base. Adjust the position of the mini until its feet are just touching the base. Then use the method I cover in this video to create keys/alignment pins.
If you have any questions let me know.
"How to key a model on a base." is one of many videos on my list to cover.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay it would be interesting a tutorial with meshmixer to put the plattform and the charater,... maybe I go for blender to center both meshes and then re export them back to mesh mixer and hit the alight button as you said... Do I need to creat keying for base? (some hole in the plattform and some key in the foot of my character? thx.
@@leatherandpoemscharmyman5774 you don't have to create a key if the surface of the base is flat superglue works on most models. However adding a key will make it a much stronger connection.
cool bean stuff there! think I try some of this on some figures I want to make lots bigger on the resin printer
If you have any questions let me know. I've had great results with this process and I hope you do as well.
Great video. Yours was the first to make this seemingly simple task make sense. As common as the need to cut larger models into smaller ones for later reassembly, why is this not an integrated feature in modern slicers?
I'm glad you found the video helpful and easy to follow.
I think that editing models isn't too common in 3D printing at large. But in certain 3D printing subsets it's very common.
I also think it takes a lot more effort to add model editing options to a slicer... So I hope it's something we see in the future, but for now Meshmixer is a great option.
Thanks for your positive feedback and the great question!
after using these settings everytime i hit accept it crashes
You could try the process without changing the settings. If it still crashes then you'll know it's the program/an issue with hardware. Unfortunately, Meshmixer is no longer supported which is such a huge bummer. That means we will see more issues has time goes on. 😞
@@SlicePrintRoleplay it was an error on my part so i noticed when changing values you have to hit enter on each one once changed or it will try to change all at once when you hit apply and will cause the crash
@@SlicePrintRoleplay thank you! this tutorial has helped me alot
@@dattisha27 glad to hear that!
What do you do when the program crashes when you're trying to undo everything?
Sorry it's an unnecessary step that I thought would be easier, but I realize it's not the best method.
Instead of undoing the steps, just create a another copy of the pin and hide it using the browser window. Does that make sense?
Nice, Just starting out with Meshmixer so very helpful thanks.
Really glad to hear it!
Just finished this and trying slice up a helmet but whenever I do the Boolean difference my laptop freezes up. It does the union with no issues. Can’t seem to figure this out.
What are the specs of your laptop? It's possible Meshmixer is crashing your laptop during that function.
A Boolean difference is a much more difficult process than a Boolean union.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I think that is the problem. My laptop is 6 years old. If I slice up the model into smaller parts first and then attempt it, do you think that would help? The helmet is pretty big and detailed. The part I was trying to key it with is a small jewel. I have to split the helmet anyway to fit the printer.
@@BillMedlin71 it may help yes.... It also may help if you stop any unnecessary background processes your computer might be doing. Do you know how to do that?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay yes. I’ll give it a try. I usually have Google sync running and it can consume resources sometimes.
@@BillMedlin71 definitely let me know how it goes!
This video was extremely helpful. Thank you very much.
You are very welcome! I'm glad it helped you.
Excellent overview of the tool. I have a problem where the primitive never sets perpendicular to the surface. Is there a trick to correct that?
That can definitely be frustrating! In that case I usually just manually adjust until it's as close to flat on the surface as possible. If it's off by a little it won't matter much because it should be off in the same way on the corresponding part/half... Does that make sense?
This is way better than using Blender @ 3AM to cut models. Thank you for the video
Haha glad you found it helpful..... Repeat after me, "3D printing is not more important than sleep." 😊
Sorry, there is a lot i want to say but my english is not enough for that. Just wonderful ✌🏼
Those are very kind words thank you!
Thank you - your walk-thru was very EASY to follow and I was able to split a large object into multiple parts for my new resin printer!!! Keep up the Great Work!!!!!!
Glad to hear that! Thanks for the encouragement.
If it’s a resin print do I need to add .3?
It depends on your resin and settings. But on average no. .2 or even .1 will probably work.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay thanks this video helped out a lot. I just got me a resin printer I have owned a 3-D printer for over a year now, but never put pins on a project before I’ve always printed them completely sliced and had a fight with assembly. Thank you for the video.
@@christoffchefful oh awesome I'm glad this helped you!
I have been trying to do just a simple plane cut on a flat almost cube model just to test out meshmixer, but while trying your settings I get stuck on refining while lowering the target edge scale to 0.25. How long should expect to wait before I should assume something is wrong because its been 10 minutes so far. My PC specs in case they help.
i7 - 10th gen
Rtx 2070
16gb ram
Hmm that is a bit odd. 10 minutes should be plenty of time to work through most cuts. How large is the model? Is it possible that the model has internal geometry issues? If so that can be really hard for Meshmixer to figure out.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay it is about 250mm cubed which is big but not anything massive. I found out that I needed to remesh first with a linear subdivision and density at 50% to create more triangles on the surfaces. There wasn’t enough to do any boolean functions.
@@luke2v52 okay yeah that makes sense. That's for responding to let us all know how you resolved the issue!
How do you fix boolean union or boolean difference when there is a red or blue error line during the process?
Try cutting a different area a little bit away from where you're cutting. It could be that you're cutting an area that has lots of complex meshes and it's giving you that error.
Am I the only one who can't hear this without putting it on full volume?
Why back when I first posted the v I had one it two people say the same thing. But everyone else said it was fine. So unfortunately, I'm not really sure what's causing that.
Fantastic Turorial. Im currently making Starwars helments for my sons cosplay and Im new to 3D Printing. Love meshmixer so much. Can this same process work when I slice the hemlmet into 8 pieces to fit on my Ender 3Pro bed. Anything I need to work out. Im guessing make 2 points on each side?? Unfortunately already printed before I came across your channel, Just working out for the next one. Your right a nightmare joining them without doing this
Thanks you so much for the feedback and I'm glad you're finding the video helpful!
That's so cool! Both my sons are too young to want to cosplay, but I'm excited for when they do!
Yes I think at least two pins on bigger models would be a good idea to keep it strong and aligned correctly.
I'd love to see pictures of what you're working on if you'd be willing to post on the group, but if not definitely let me know here how it goes!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay happy to show pictures if you could let me know how to send them on you tube or any other way
@@samstrada2796 if you're interested in joining the Facebook page I always enjoy seeing what you all are working on!
FANTASTIC !!! Very good explain ! Thank you !
You are very welcome! I'm glad you found it helpful!
Awesome Tutorial! Watching these videos have really helped me understand the topics so much better! Thank you
I'm so glad to hear that, thank you for the feedback! ❤️
Exactly what i needed , Thanks!
Glad to hear it!
Thanks, I needed this video!
You are very welcome!
a shortcut to this is to make a duplicate and hide the duplicate of the cube before doing the union. so you don't have to undo everything. then you can unhide the cube and then hide the body when you do the next step.
That is absolutely a better option. When I created this video I thought the process of creating a second pin and hiding it would be more difficult. However, I failed to consider the computing power that reversing pervious operations would take. When I update this video I will definitely correct that!
Also thank you for the recommendation! I really appreciate when viewers offer a better solution to a process I outline in my videos.
Would love to see the multiple shell separation tutorial 8:00.
You got it!
ruclips.net/video/2aoJUkE8nJg/видео.html
Up to the day of today, the most precise and well explained video.
I greatly appreciate that positive feedback, thank you! 💚
for the pin part you can just export in stl while selecting the 2 parts. No errors, no need to wait for your pc to do the calculations too ;)
That's is definitely an option. You can also use the "Combine" fiction as the pines don't require a complex remesh like the holes do.
The holes are typically where people run into computing issues... But a great suggestion all the same!
Entirely to difficult. Stick to a pin vice.
To each their own.
This just helped me so much! Thank you 🤓✌
You are very welcome!
Great job! This video makes me happy. Thanks
I'm very glad to hear that thank you!
Great tutorial its really helpful and easy to learn you are an excellent instructor. I subbed !
Thanks so much for the support and positive feedback!
Great video, you sound like a younger Bob Ross
That's probably the best compliment I've ever gotten... Thank you!
I also appreciate that a lot because I try to have that same teaching style in my videos. I usually try to tell people to follow along at home. 😊
hey, any particular reason why we need 18 Preview iterations?
What do you mean?
well, the settings at 12:18 - you said it's super important to get right and to use them all the time. Just wondering why Preview Iterations is set to 18 and not I dunno... 20 :)
The tutorial is great btw - I'm using it right now ;)
@@RedKasst oh doh! 🤦♂️ Sorry I was totally spacing on that setting name.
I mainly recommend 18 rather than 20 just to take a little bit of load off your CPU.
It's a slight adjustment, but on bigger/more complex models it can make a difference.
But if you want to use 20 then that certainly won't be an issue.
Really good question!
I'm so glad you're finding it helpful and thank you for the positive feedback!
Ps, I wanna see what you're working on! 😁
ah, nothing much - just pins for the LAAT/i Gunship floor: imgur.com/hw2kfx0 got the files from Gambody and trying to print it @ 200% scale to fit 3.75 Clone Trooper figures :D
YESSSSS! Well done. Concise. And humorous! Thank you so much.
"Concise & humorous." is what I want my headstone to say!...
Thank you! Positive feedback means a lot! ❤️
Thank you so much for this!
You are very welcome! If you have any questions feel free to reach out to me on Facebook.
What size difference would you recommend for resin printers?
You said .3 works best for FDM so what tolerance would be better for resin?
I actually haven't don't much testing with adding my own keys to resin models. But I'd say .1mm or .1.5mm. It will really depend on how much the resin you're using blooms during printing. It may be worth testing before you key a full model.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay awesome. Great video and thanks for the quick reply
@@The.Achilles you are very welcome!
Very nice, very clear tutorial! Subbed!
Thanks so much for the feedback and support!