In other situations you can also get noise reduction using focus stacking, hand-held or otherwise. High Res is after all another king of stacking. Stacking is the classic noise reduction method in astrophotography, of course.
That is amazing Espen, what an amazing encounter right nearby waiting to be photographed :) I hear Owl's near me frequently, but have not been lucky enough to see one yet, let alone get a photo!
That was very useful! The High Res mode for relatively static subjects for controlling noise and lowering the angle by moving further away. Of course, You need the tele-converter then!
@EspenHelland good idea. Shame it drops mp so low, great if you can fill the frame though. I use it with jpeg+raw as I figure if I get something special I can crop and play later 😁 Am I correct in thinking you don't have options to adjust focus box size in that mode?
MFT is always like hearing fishing stories, the fish get bigger the further the story progresses. Until the size of a whale. There is much to compensate for apparantly.
MFT has been put in that corner by users of other systems. Especially comments on high noise and l lack of shallow depth of field. The truth is that if you learn to know the system and learn to use all the options and features it offers these comments become irrelevant. But you can only learn to talk whale size if you try and use MFT so, this is an invitation 🙂
@@Bigfarmer8 MFT has put itself in that corner. All the stories are about unrealistic comparisons and miracluus MFT comes out on top. Somehow the lies and half truths stick and that`s what the system becomes. It maybe a good tool but people cannot take bullshit stories serious anymore.
@@Bigfarmer8 MFT certainly test your photography skills you constantly have to compensate for shortcomings. One thing I can say if you take a great shot with MFT You have earned it with blood sweat and tears. Believe me, I’ve been there.
@@ThomasReed-c1w I assume it is not your cup of tea then? Well, how wonderful it is that there is a system for everyone and every budget. I am probably such a mediocre photographer that I do not experience any short comings 😁
That is a great tip! I knew HHHR could virtually eliminate noise when shooting astro (side benefit, it also works as a tracker to keep pin sharp stars for longer exposures than you can get otherwise), but it makes sense that it would be a great NR technique for wildlife as well. A tip for you: Other than OM Workspace, the best RAW processor for .orf files is DxO (I use PhotoLab, but Pure RAW is also great). It renders Olympus files the most accurately for color, has the best lens corrections for every body/lens combination, AND the best NR when you cannot use the HHHR technique.
@@EspenHelland for the tracking hack, use HHHR with the camera on your tripod. I don't know what the exposure limit is, but I've used 30s exposures on the 8mm Fisheye at very high ISOs and came back with clean, sharp high resolution files. If you use PhotoPils, you'll know 30s is well outside the range of what you should be able to use for pin sharp stars with 8mm on m43.
Hey, I often try to use the feature whenever I have a still subject and I think it’s a really good image that I want as many pixels as I can get. As well as for landscapes.
I recently did a shot of my dog as he slept, in extremely low light, using my OM-1 and Oly 100-400mm. I used HHHR Mode and set my ISO to 80000. The resulting image shows an actual ISO of 65535 with virtually no noise, good detail, and good color. I'm not sure why the ISO is reduced from 80000 -- apparently some kind of limit is imposed -- but never the less, the resulting image is really amazing at ISO 65535! Obviously, this has very limited application for animals/wildlife or people.
That might be a function of trying to shoot within the "extended" range of ISO on the OM-1. I believe our cameras' native range is ISO 200-25,600. When you go beyond that, there's software interpolation involved.
Do you have buttons configured so that you can move back and forth between normal exposure and high-resolution exposure, or do you just go to the menu when you need to change?
Essen, great tip. However, despite the OM1ii being so much faster to capture and process, I’m not sure that I could hold steady for long enough. I have tried for macro focus stacking and only get results occasionally, although better than the Mk1. That’s down to my 73 year old shaky body, not the camera. I do tend to use DXO for all my processing when I go birding with my 150-400; the new version is simply stunning. However, I’m going out to try and capture a Paradise Riflebird this morning near Brisbane, so will try your technique. I have a shot from a few weeks ago but am hoping for a better display this time - their deep black chest feathers under the canopy are a challenge. Cheers.
@@EspenHelland I did take a tripod but the Paradise Riflebird flew in for one second to check his display perch and left! I will try again but it’s not that local.
Helpful video, thanks for sharing. Given the angle I would have more likely used the 150-400 - maybe even with TC engaged (hand held) and perhaps even tried some using the tripod and 80mp given the close proximity.
I have begun experimenting with the high resolution mode in conjunction with the 2 X digital teleconverter. Surprisingly it works fantastically provided you can keep the lens dead still. 2 sec delay timer and tripod at least
As you are a new buyer, you might not be aware, but there are actually 2 "high res" modes. The Tripod mode gives you 80mp image files, but the HandHeld (commonly called HHHR) gives slightly less resolution (50mp) as a tradeoff for the ability to shoot handheld. Provided you are using a reasonable shutter speed (1/60th or better), you should be able to use HHHR when using the 2x teleconverter.
Really amazing capture! I love all these features of OM system ! Cheers
The more I hear about the OM 1 the more excited I get! I have recently bought the mark 1 with a 100-400 and it is certainly impressive
ISO 16000 ... but the image looks amazing!!! A big LIKE for your video. Greetings from Singapore.
Thanks a lot Cheiko!
olympus puts in some nice features to make the best out of low light
In other situations you can also get noise reduction using focus stacking, hand-held or otherwise. High Res is after all another king of stacking. Stacking is the classic noise reduction method in astrophotography, of course.
Hey Espen. Thanks for the tip. :)
That is amazing Espen, what an amazing encounter right nearby waiting to be photographed :) I hear Owl's near me frequently, but have not been lucky enough to see one yet, let alone get a photo!
Felt very lucky :) Keep looking, will be worth it when you find one!
That was very useful! The High Res mode for relatively static subjects for controlling noise and lowering the angle by moving further away. Of course, You need the tele-converter then!
Glad it was helpful!
Espen, great advice and tips.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great tip Espen, I had never thought of trying this mode. Recently i have played with the 2x digital converter which has been interesting 😊
Yes, I keep the 2x teleconverter on a custom mode and use it from time to time as well :)
@EspenHelland good idea. Shame it drops mp so low, great if you can fill the frame though. I use it with jpeg+raw as I figure if I get something special I can crop and play later 😁 Am I correct in thinking you don't have options to adjust focus box size in that mode?
Thanks so much for the tip
Nice video👍
Thanks 👍
MFT is always like hearing fishing stories, the fish get bigger the further the story progresses.
Until the size of a whale.
There is much to compensate for apparantly.
MFT has been put in that corner by users of other systems. Especially comments on high noise and l lack of shallow depth of field. The truth is that if you learn to know the system and learn to use all the options and features it offers these comments become irrelevant. But you can only learn to talk whale size if you try and use MFT so, this is an invitation 🙂
@@Bigfarmer8 MFT has put itself in that corner.
All the stories are about unrealistic comparisons and miracluus MFT comes out on top.
Somehow the lies and half truths stick and that`s what the system becomes.
It maybe a good tool but people cannot take bullshit stories serious anymore.
@@Bigfarmer8
MFT certainly test your photography skills you constantly have to compensate for shortcomings. One thing I can say if you take a great shot with MFT You have earned it with blood sweat and tears. Believe me, I’ve been there.
@@ThomasReed-c1w I assume it is not your cup of tea then? Well, how wonderful it is that there is a system for everyone and every budget. I am probably such a mediocre photographer that I do not experience any short comings 😁
@@Bigfarmer8
Well, you said it
That is a great tip! I knew HHHR could virtually eliminate noise when shooting astro (side benefit, it also works as a tracker to keep pin sharp stars for longer exposures than you can get otherwise), but it makes sense that it would be a great NR technique for wildlife as well.
A tip for you: Other than OM Workspace, the best RAW processor for .orf files is DxO (I use PhotoLab, but Pure RAW is also great). It renders Olympus files the most accurately for color, has the best lens corrections for every body/lens combination, AND the best NR when you cannot use the HHHR technique.
Cheers Edward, I'm hoping to do a bit more astro so will definitely try it for that. I use DxO as well, really great program!
@@EspenHelland for the tracking hack, use HHHR with the camera on your tripod. I don't know what the exposure limit is, but I've used 30s exposures on the 8mm Fisheye at very high ISOs and came back with clean, sharp high resolution files. If you use PhotoPils, you'll know 30s is well outside the range of what you should be able to use for pin sharp stars with 8mm on m43.
Hey Epsen! Thanks for the tips! Do you use the high res option mainly with low light settings ?
Hey, I often try to use the feature whenever I have a still subject and I think it’s a really good image that I want as many pixels as I can get. As well as for landscapes.
I recently did a shot of my dog as he slept, in extremely low light, using my OM-1 and Oly 100-400mm. I used HHHR Mode and set my ISO to 80000. The resulting image shows an actual ISO of 65535 with virtually no noise, good detail, and good color. I'm not sure why the ISO is reduced from 80000 -- apparently some kind of limit is imposed -- but never the less, the resulting image is really amazing at ISO 65535!
Obviously, this has very limited application for animals/wildlife or people.
That might be a function of trying to shoot within the "extended" range of ISO on the OM-1. I believe our cameras' native range is ISO 200-25,600. When you go beyond that, there's software interpolation involved.
Virtually no noise, that`s a crazy story.
Even my iso champion A7S3 shows noise at very high iso. I don`t believe you.
That is a funny number to end on for ISO. Great to hear you got good results with it though!
@@brugj03 Sorry you don't believe me -- nothing I can do about that.
@@gregm6894A sleeping dog is an amazing use case. I should buy Olympus again.
But this microscopic matrix... Although the science of color in Olympus is one of the best.
Do you have buttons configured so that you can move back and forth between normal exposure and high-resolution exposure, or do you just go to the menu when you need to change?
@@tacul9333 with the OM-1.2, you just press and hold the red ("record") button for a second and it will toggle the High Res mode on and off.
I’ve changed it from the default record button as I use that for recording video. I put it on the button to the left of the viewfinder.
Essen, great tip. However, despite the OM1ii being so much faster to capture and process, I’m not sure that I could hold steady for long enough. I have tried for macro focus stacking and only get results occasionally, although better than the Mk1. That’s down to my 73 year old shaky body, not the camera. I do tend to use DXO for all my processing when I go birding with my 150-400; the new version is simply stunning. However, I’m going out to try and capture a Paradise Riflebird this morning near Brisbane, so will try your technique. I have a shot from a few weeks ago but am hoping for a better display this time - their deep black chest feathers under the canopy are a challenge. Cheers.
Yes, for dark subjects it's really important to expose to the right to get the details out. Maybe a monopod or even tripod could help?
@@EspenHelland I did take a tripod but the Paradise Riflebird flew in for one second to check his display perch and left! I will try again but it’s not that local.
Helpful video, thanks for sharing. Given the angle I would have more likely used the 150-400 - maybe even with TC engaged (hand held) and perhaps even tried some using the tripod and 80mp given the close proximity.
Good shout 👍 I didn’t have my 150-400 then, but I definitely could have gone back for the tripod.
Nice. Using Dxo, one can get pretty stunning result even at ISO 12k/16k on an EM1-III. I guess it's even better o the OM1.
Thanks for sharing
DxO is really good, I use it too!
I have begun experimenting with the high resolution mode in conjunction with the 2 X digital teleconverter. Surprisingly it works fantastically provided you can keep the lens dead still. 2 sec delay timer and tripod at least
As you are a new buyer, you might not be aware, but there are actually 2 "high res" modes. The Tripod mode gives you 80mp image files, but the HandHeld (commonly called HHHR) gives slightly less resolution (50mp) as a tradeoff for the ability to shoot handheld. Provided you are using a reasonable shutter speed (1/60th or better), you should be able to use HHHR when using the 2x teleconverter.
@@EdwardBartelThanks very much Edward. Yes I am aware of that mode. Certainly I will give it a try
That's interesting, might have to give it a try!