What a refreshing change from the norm. Straight facts, simple to understand and the spoken word that’s easy to hear with excellent pronunciation. None of this “What’s up guys” and a cap with peak at the back. You’ve earned and deserve the 39.3k subscribers. Thank you.
Thanks! Just what I needed to know after buying a new battery saw. Wasn't sure about it but will make sure I get the right chains now. Cheers from Australia. PP
Hi, is it okay if I replace a 43T(86DL) to 38T(76DL) chain but the pitch code is the same? And is it proper if I use a thinner gauge, ex. 0.085 to 0.058inch chain gauge?
Yep, If you can match up the specifics you should be able to run whatever chain you like. On my small saw which is a Stihl ms180, I just like to run whatever chains I can get in bulk on Amazon. With those small chains you can get them cheap enough that it almost doesn't even pay to bother resharpening them.
I you are going to cut logs lengthwise, or use something like and Alaskan Sawmill, you really need a specially ground ripping chain. Here's a link to a company that makes them. I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just know they offer the right kind of chains and setups for making planks with a chainsaw. www.granberg.com/product-category/alaskan-mill/bars-chain/granberg-pre-cut-ripping-chain/
The pins in the chain are what allow it to bend and rotate around the bar, much like a bicycle chain. The pitch a function of the drive link spurs and how they will interface with the drive sprocket on the power head and the sprocket out on the end of the bar. The gauge of the chain is the thickness of the drive links and needs to match the slot in the bar.
Here's a link to the owner's manual for the Stihl 029, scroll down to page 49 for recommended bar and, chain, and sprocket combos: www.stihlusa.com/webcontent/cmsfilelibrary/instructionmanuals/stihl-ms-029-039-owners-instruction-manual.pdf
If the chain is really, really too long it sounds like a drive link count error. If it's just too loose, check to make sure your bar tension adjustment mechanism isn't jammed up with debris.
I thought about it, but in the end I figured that would be a bit outside the scope of this video (basic chain sizing). A ripping chain will also crosscut just fine, and if someone truly needs a ripping chain (and understands why you need it), they probably don't need this video. A ripping chain is usually just a semi-chisel with a shallow cutting angle around 10 degrees which facilitates cutting with the grain like when you use a chainsaw in a portable or "Alaskan" sawmill to make planks.
Thanks for watching! Don't forget, on any RUclips video you can click the settings icon (the little gear) and then you can choose different playback speeds either slower or faster than the original recording. A lot of people will use the 1.25 or 1.5x playback speeds if they find dialogue is too slow.
2:37 "The pitch of the chain refers to the distance between the drive links" Shouldn't people say that the pitch of the chain refers to half the distance between the drive links. Isn't the distance between 3 linked pins divieded by 2 equal to half the distance between the drive links.
It's about removing human error from the equation. The reason they say to measure three link pins and then divide by two is because any three pins will give you the correct pitch measurement. If someone accidentally just measured between the two pins on a drive tooth (not the link pins between the drive tooth) it wouldn't be the right measurement. If they tried to eyeball the distance between drive links and divide by two they might not get the right measure. By measuring distance between ANY three pins and dividing that number by 2 you will always get the correct pitch measurement. So while your observation is correct, it relies on the person to actually measure the correct reference points on the chain and not make a mistake. The "measure three link pins and divide by two" methods helps remove potential human error from task. You could also just measure between two spurs on drive links and divide by two, but that measurement can't be taken with the chain on the bar.
What a refreshing change from the norm. Straight facts, simple to understand and the spoken word that’s easy to hear with excellent pronunciation.
None of this “What’s up guys” and a cap with peak at the back. You’ve earned and deserve the 39.3k subscribers. Thank you.
Quick and to the point, with visual representations. Perfect video.
Thanks for the video. Very informative, straight to the point without any rambling. Nicely done
Thank you. Concise, quick and informative. Great video!
Great video! Very thorough!
Excellent - clear and very informative.
Very good video. Thank you
You just saved me a ton of work. Thanks!
Thanks for the video.
What a VERY useful video! Thank you.
Atlast I got it Thank u
Thanks for sharing this. Needed to know and now I know. 👍😊
Thank you!
THANKS YOU FOR A GREAT VIDEO
Great info!! Thanks Pete!!
Thanks! Just what I needed to know after buying a new battery saw. Wasn't sure about it but will make sure I get the right chains now. Cheers from Australia. PP
Beautiful
Thank you
Thank you you were very informative for this video.👍
I will forget this the next time I need a chain im sure lol. Great info.
Honestly, sometimes I make these videos just so I know where to go get the info when I forget...lol
Great Video, Thanks mate.
Thanks 👍
Hi, is it okay if I replace a 43T(86DL) to 38T(76DL) chain but the pitch code is the same? And is it proper if I use a thinner gauge, ex. 0.085 to 0.058inch chain gauge?
as long as your numbers match , like mine being 3/8 .050 56 then i can use a Stihl chain on my Husky?
Yep, If you can match up the specifics you should be able to run whatever chain you like. On my small saw which is a Stihl ms180, I just like to run whatever chains I can get in bulk on Amazon. With those small chains you can get them cheap enough that it almost doesn't even pay to bother resharpening them.
@@WheeliePete TKS a lot. They make it hard to cross match with their lengthy part numbers and search filters
If my chain has 86 drive links what length of shaft
Which chain is good for milling the wood?
I you are going to cut logs lengthwise, or use something like and Alaskan Sawmill, you really need a specially ground ripping chain. Here's a link to a company that makes them. I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just know they offer the right kind of chains and setups for making planks with a chainsaw. www.granberg.com/product-category/alaskan-mill/bars-chain/granberg-pre-cut-ripping-chain/
Is the pitch pretty much what is needed for the chain the "bend" and rotate around the bar and drive gears?
The pins in the chain are what allow it to bend and rotate around the bar, much like a bicycle chain. The pitch a function of the drive link spurs and how they will interface with the drive sprocket on the power head and the sprocket out on the end of the bar. The gauge of the chain is the thickness of the drive links and needs to match the slot in the bar.
I have a 029 but don't have the bar or chain the clutch has 8 teeth plz help
Here's a link to the owner's manual for the Stihl 029, scroll down to page 49 for recommended bar and, chain, and sprocket combos: www.stihlusa.com/webcontent/cmsfilelibrary/instructionmanuals/stihl-ms-029-039-owners-instruction-manual.pdf
10 dragon chains
Dude seems no one sells a full chisel low profile chain for a 16 inch bar, what's going on
✌😊
45 to 50 dollars per chain is not cheap now.
Yeah I laughed too ? Do what guy ?
Matched all numbers chains way to big
If the chain is really, really too long it sounds like a drive link count error. If it's just too loose, check to make sure your bar tension adjustment mechanism isn't jammed up with debris.
You missed one other matter. Difference between a cut chain and a rip chain.
I thought about it, but in the end I figured that would be a bit outside the scope of this video (basic chain sizing). A ripping chain will also crosscut just fine, and if someone truly needs a ripping chain (and understands why you need it), they probably don't need this video. A ripping chain is usually just a semi-chisel with a shallow cutting angle around 10 degrees which facilitates cutting with the grain like when you use a chainsaw in a portable or "Alaskan" sawmill to make planks.
I gave this a thumbs up, BUT could you please speak faster, please.
Thanks for watching! Don't forget, on any RUclips video you can click the settings icon (the little gear) and then you can choose different playback speeds either slower or faster than the original recording. A lot of people will use the 1.25 or 1.5x playback speeds if they find dialogue is too slow.
@@WheeliePete Thanks!
2:37 "The pitch of the chain refers to the distance between the drive links" Shouldn't people say that the pitch of the chain refers to half the distance between the drive links. Isn't the distance between 3 linked pins divieded by 2 equal to half the distance between the drive links.
It's about removing human error from the equation. The reason they say to measure three link pins and then divide by two is because any three pins will give you the correct pitch measurement. If someone accidentally just measured between the two pins on a drive tooth (not the link pins between the drive tooth) it wouldn't be the right measurement. If they tried to eyeball the distance between drive links and divide by two they might not get the right measure. By measuring distance between ANY three pins and dividing that number by 2 you will always get the correct pitch measurement. So while your observation is correct, it relies on the person to actually measure the correct reference points on the chain and not make a mistake. The "measure three link pins and divide by two" methods helps remove potential human error from task. You could also just measure between two spurs on drive links and divide by two, but that measurement can't be taken with the chain on the bar.