You've Probably Never Seen A Concrete Pour Like This Before, Insulated Kiln Slab
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2020
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Sawmill Used: Wood-Mizer LT40Wide
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Nathan Elliott owns and operates Out of the Woods Forestry a Sawmill, Kiln and woodworking business. OTW is located in the Appalachian Mountain range of Northeast Tennessee. Nathan operates a Wood-Mizer sawmill used in conjunction with other tools to harvest timber from local woodlands and urban environments. 
Хобби
Do me a favor and go follow Nyle Systems on either Facebook or Instagram:
Facebook: facebook.com/pg/nyledrykilns/about/?ref=page_internal
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The New Kiln is made by Nyle Systems: www.nyle.com/
Absolutely we will follow Nyle Sytems, great to learn more about them..! Thanks Nathan for sharing your vast wealth of knowledge with us.
Hey you should have broken up the foam to allow some of the concrete to sit on more solid base instead of totally relying the foam to support the full 4x8 area of weight
So Sean
I'm a hotel engineer,
I've learned not all self proclaimed pros are just that. A pro roofer installed my neighbors roof, said mine a friend n I installed would leak as we didn't metal In Valleys, in ten years not at all. His on neighbours has leaked 3times,take my advice, keep yours to your self.
I would build it the
same as this!
@@davidgaston9144 Dont know what stuff a hotel engineer works on, but you have no idea of concrete and building.
John Ye is right: That job does not make any sense.
And no, we are not "self proclaimed" pros.
With concrete, we are pros and you for sure not, when I read you would have done it the same.
Hardcore on a DPC (does not even look like one and wont do the job the way he laid it) + concrete on top = perforation. You would need something like 6mm chips.
Fiber reinforced concrete instead of mesh for this small job? Too expensive if steel fibres and if poly fibres, its wrong situation for using it. Fiber reinforced w/o bars on each side?
What he's trying to insulate with all these gaps? Its not even same distance from the 4 sides if he considered statics for walls.
Insulation board not covered with plastic to avoid concrete sucked it?
And whats the crack with the exposed insulation on all sides? He cant even cover it with blocks etc. because his concrete foundation is not big enough and ends with the insulation on each side.
No, this is a poor job and an engineer of any kind should see that using common sense. Stay away from concrete and better listen to those with experience, like John Ye.
@Coinguy American Its like I tried to explain my my other answer. But let me try again:
- the white plastic... Would guess its a DPC. But its gets perforated on 20mm hardcore, so its useless.
- not even sure if that white plastic is a DPC. Its somehow humpy dumpy laying on the ground and does not look strong enough to act as dampness barrier.
- But I would put a DPC on 6mm chips (we call it "chips" if its round w/o edges). There are other materials to put a DPC on, but 20mm hardcore (edges) is not right. Just the weight of the concrete will cause holes.
- I don't understand the perimeter with insulation foam on the outside. Why is that? It has no benefit unless you have a UFH. But it serves no purpose, because of the 1-2 feet around w/o insulation boards flat.
- Why is there no insulation board in the right front corner? Not enough material?
- Why all the insulating boards "somewhere". The distance from front/end and left/right is different, so the "gaps" around are not for additional support of a wall. I guess we would take some measures and make it precise. But look at the photos of those Nyle systems. They have no walls that need that additional support.
- The insulation boards are not flat with full contact on the ground. Air pockets underneath are a weak point
- Here, where I live, steel fiber reinforced concrete is more expensive that concrete reinforced with mesh. I would not recommend a client to pay for that in such a situation.
I would do the setup just bit different with either concrete block or poured concrete ring (maybe overengineered for what he needs).
But I would do it much more precise and choose right materials.
Its not about the general setup, its how the work is done.
Just look at what happens with the insulation boards when he stands on them. They go up on one side. Once they go down again, for sure you dont have one solid area covered with insulation boards anymore. It caused movements, movements cause gaps, gaps causes a bridge for heat loss.
And why does he screws the timber cladding with the insulation boards to the future concrete floor, but the insulation board not covering the entire outside?
The timber will rot, the insulation boards will be exposed, .... Cant see any sense without further explanation.
But happy to hear from you if you see it different.
This is a good book. Does provide a step by step introduction to how to build things ruclips.net/user/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 , also does offer some steps. Includes pictures to give you ideas for layouts and such. If you are looking for a guide, this is not exactly what you want. But if you are trying to familiarize yourself with the way that pole barn building and other out buildings, are made, then this will work just as you need it to. A few things in this book are a barn (of course), detached garage, storage building, and coops.
Your right, I've never seen a pour like that. Thank God.
:D
I like it u day it will keep flor warmer ?
Hats off to the the finnisher. A good mechanic makes his work look simple.
The concrete man knew what he was doing. Nice job.
Very interesting pour. I've never seen that type before. One time-saving tip you could do when measuring the depth of the base rock layer. Instead of having to pull out your tape measure every time to check, just take 3 or 4 scrap pieces of wood and tack them at the right depth to your cross board. Then, just drag the board along and shovel the rocks till they reach the bottom of your "depth gauges". I hope that description makes sense...
Thanks for sharing with us Nathan, your concrete man looks like he knows his trade well 👍👍. Fred.
Not!
a) Insulation should cover the whole area
b) Insulation board must be on dead flat compacted stone
c) It should have steel reinforcing mesh, even though it is fibre-added concrete
d) The sides of the slab should be on the ground, not as seen here, hanging in the poly membrane
Glad to see a good wet pour. These days so many folks pour really dry cause its faster to work, but long term there are a lot more voids and problems. Takes an extra couple of hours but you will be happier in the long run.
Bullshit: A wet pour is a weak pour, the drier the pour the stronger it will be. You need to re-think your remark.
The man finishing the concrete is a professional great work and no screwing around.
Thanks for this video. Really enjoyed it and the comments.
Thats a real soupy mix. Probably should have used some rebar to add strength to that floor. Won’t be surprised if you see cracks develop over time.
they put fiber mess in the concrete. fiber is used also like rebar. it bonds it tighter & more firm like brace wire. it also seals the surface of the slab with more grit
Fiber Mesh will keep it from cracking , and pouring water on the slab keeps it from "drying out" to fast.
poring this type of element is a process in timing & skill handling with the right tools & compound mixture a steady level foundation and accuracy the slab will be stable & Stern.
The guy floating the concrete was as smooth as silk took his time and did it right.
Enjoyed the video greatly and learned a lot.
Been doing pads like this up in northern Manitoba Canada since the early 80's. with rebar and screen.
You're sure right. I've been doing concrete all over the US for over 40 years, and I've never seen a pour like that.
HaHaHa, and I thought it was just me
@@kenuber4766 Same here ! 🤦🏻♂️
same here.
makin good progress for that kiln. That's pretty exciting!
Very!
Delightful to watch! Thank you for sharing with us!
Thanks for watching
the background music is amazing
I am always enthralled with concrete: A skilled crew makes it look easy though I know from experience it is anything but!!
Agreed
Working Concrete will sho nuff seperate the men from the boys...also makes 🍞🥩🧈🥗🥣supper taste real good after a day pouring and finishing. 😋😁
SOOPER AGREED, that is back breaking hard work, the skill of knowing when to move the boom, stop the flow and spread or let gravity spread itself truly is an art, skills obtained over time.
Here in Florida, a well season block crew doing a new house makes it look so damned easy. Each cinder block weighs about 35 pounds and they toss them around like they weigh ounces. I built pools but never did block work. Hats off to them.
@@rooftopvoter3015 i built a log house a few years back when i was younger (58). i laid 100 concrete blocks. my son in law mixed all the mudd and set scaffold as it was needed. thfirst day, i touht i would die lifting the blocks with both hands. by the fifth day, i was lifting them with one hand and laying them 3 times faster. 1000 blocks in two weeks.
It's all looking great Nathan! I'm looking forward to more building, sawing, great editing and a bunch oh kitties! And of course the old Mizer, wind chimes and beautiful hearts of trees! Blessings! DaveyJO in Pa.
Thanks 👍
Very interesting video, not like any other concrete pour that I have seen with sound reasoning behind it. Well done, Don from South Australia.
Looks like a very busy summer and fall. I can't wait to see it finished.
Thanks 👍👍
Keeping that concrete guy busy i see, looking forward to the new kiln
I Loved the backing Music, Just Great
Looking forward to seeing how it comes together
me 2, thanks for watching,
I just love the way you use the tractor bucket to haul water!
Thanks 👍
Interesting technique.
A friendly suggestion of placing #4 Rebar . And also Fender Washers and Nuts on the 6" bolts that you installed.
I bet I have.
I have been doing ready-mix and floors for a very long time..when we build chicken barns we do exactly this..
Terrific music! Loved the cats!
Coming along well. Looking good.👍
Thanks 👍
He’s a good lad working that concrete. Insulation in concrete quite common in UK.
Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
he is talking about a kiln.. not water insulation.. that slab will be shattered to pieces under a kiln
The monolithic footer not being insulated will thermally conduct a lot of BTUs.
I was just glad to see that no kittens were harmed during the pouring of the concrete!
no worries,
I been bldg for 40 plus years. Like the monolithic pour , insulation boards , form , bracing and the pour. I read most the comments , ive worked in 11 states and countless cities so i know the diffrent ways. Nice job.
Thanks appreciate it
Hats off, to the man running the float. Good job.
👍👍👍
I would have definitely turned those bolts the other way with nuts on the outside, I have had pressure treated rot for me in about 8 years on a customers deck, then you could replace boards
I pressure treat lumber as a trade. You got the wrong treatment level of wood for the application.
My biggest question is how in the world can this Craftsman Neil on those rocks with no knee pads. I'm 75 years old, and watching hi brings tears to my eyes👏
That's kneel,, but don't strain your education too much to remember that. And watching ''hi'' usually doesn't cause tears, but hunger.
Im 39 and wondered the same.
No knee problems is how *YET*
was a concrete flat worker too for almost 30 years and for the first 10 years. knee pads are for wimps then after had my knee drained 3 times I finally wished up and realized why they're made and what for 🤣
Oh and the bad knees from motocross racing injuries didnt help either 😁...
I thought the same thing! It hurt my knees just watching!
Kiln #3. You've done something different with each one. Fascinating to watch your thought processes!---That little snicklefritz has to check out everything! Will be fun to watch her grow up!---Sure love that banjo music at the end... Hope that storm coming your way doesn't cause you significant concern.
looks like we will not be affected, thanks for watching Alana,
It is always enjoyable watching someone else pour concrete.
yes sir, thanks for watching,
Always enjoy your videos... And the musical accompaniment here is fab... Wondering why you didn't use metal reinforcement in the slab?? That kiln plus lumber load will be heavy... But whatever is the design, it was a sweet pour & excellent finish.
Slab looks great! When I built my 45x80 shop I did an insulated slab with 2" foam board. 130 sheets and 2800' of 1" PEX pipe. Love the videos keep them coming.
thanks for watching,
why did you use 1" pex?
@@alm7707 Heat the slab.
@@markjones9366 I know that, but why 1"? I used 1/2" heliopex in my floor, it holds 1/4 the heating fluid and keeps the floor a more even heat, at least that's what I feel. Costs a lot less too and fittings available everywhere for a lot less $
Boy you’ve got a great set up !!
I see your plan very clearly I'm in Michigan and I'm getting ready to pour one and it's in a kinda low spot in the yard. I don't want water getting to it EVER, so I want it ABOVE GRADE. Goodjob. Doesn't have to be"perfect" anyway!!! Just durable. Nice video. $ave $$$$
I designed a slab and foundation under a bulk food storage freezer. We had 12 inches of foam over 18 inches of gravel. The gravel had heating elements in it. It was to replace a freezer building that was not properly designed. It had permafrost under it and the slab was pushed up about 2 feet. That's right permafrost in south Louisiana.
Wow impressive
that is not uncommon in cold storage sites....
I guess somebody paid a lot of money (in electricity) over a long period of time to freeze a lot of dirt! Did you determine that the coils were definitely needed, or was that a "just in case" type of thing? It seems like 12 inches of foam should be a pretty great insulator so I am just surprised the coils would be needed. I wonder how thick would the insulation need to be so that you don't need heating coils? Obviously I am not a civil engineer or an expert on thermal engineering.
@@mckenziekeith7434 it is a standard design. Usually freezer buildings are well below freezing. Here in Louisiana we have a lot of ground water so we are well aware of potential frost heave. Not putting heating coils would be a big mistake. FYI, I am a Civil engineer.
@@ddnaomi I could tell you were a CE. That is why I took this opportunity to ask you about it. Thanks for answering! I am an electrical engineer (by which I mean I have a bachelor degree in EE, not that I am a certificated PE which you probably are). But all engineering disciplines are interesting to me.
When you pour the water on the slab at the end, I could really see the grain in the concrete pop!
indeed, Christmas in august,
Looking forward to a follow-up.
Looking good Nathan, looking real good !! Thumbs up.
Thanks 👍
Dude working that float knows his stuff.
thanks for watching,
Christopher Moore trowelling off concrete like that is a thing of beauty. My skills lie elsewhere.
I said the same thing. Bull float dude knew his stuff. Invaluable to have a guy this this on a concrete pour.
Kudos to "Bull Float Dude".
Is he from Clinton possibly?
I've been in construction for about 40 years. I've seen many slabs like you're doing. I'm believe what you've got done is going to work very well for you. Now in the southern United States we no longer insulate slabs like that, in the southern United States the termites go between the fome and the concrete and go around the pressure-treated bottom plate and start eating the Whitewood.
thank you sir,
That's right perimeter insulation I'm loving it 😍 haven't been it in years nice OK bruh
Good job 👏
Well your right never seen it done that way. Well I did once he was rough as well
That kiln will suck up the dampness from the ground around your footings and dry the ground out, well maybe
No vibrator, no steel. There will be weight store in the kiln
After reading the comments, i never knew so may cement folks were interested in saw mills and wood kilns. 🤯
That Man Has Leveling Skills
thanks for watching,
Awesome to see you grow young man.
Thanks 👍👍
To keep the pad/slab from drying out to quick, get some sand around the edges approximately 2-3 inches high, 6-8 inches flat, create a pool for the water to sit in, just fill by hose if you can or bucket the water in, stops the slab from cracking, setting to fast. Leave it for a few days, a week is best. Top up if required to keep an even coverage. Do this straight after the concrete finishing are done floating/troweling brushing off the slab.
how long after you pour the slab do you sit the water on top?
@@jamesduff6937 straight away after troweling, finishing, brushing off is done , best of luck, make sure reinforcing mesh or bars aren’t to close to the surface either as sometimes micro cracks can appear from these
This was code for many years in Georgia the foam made a termite freeway into termites had a feast on the houses eventually all the foam had to be removed or they would not cover for termite damage
Great stuff
Awesome brother!!! It’s all looking good! You will have all kinds of dried wood before long!!!
That's the plan!
Time will TELL ! All i think you did create a void in the center under the insulation dry and hollow ! good luck with it hope it works out 4 you .
I'm in Canada and that is exactly how we do our garage floors, the only difference is we also add rebar mesh overtop the styrofoam, which works good for us and I'm sure it worked out just fine for him.
@@patprop74 fiberglass rebar is the way to go. steel rusts and expands/ contracts. eventually cracking concrete. takes about two decades, but it will happen.
I admire your hard work and dedication. I thought you wanted the vapor/water barrier in direct contact with the bottom of the concrete. Reason being that as the concrete cures it drives the moisture out in all directions. So now the moisture from the concrete will be in the foam and gravel base and take years to be driven back through the concrete to be dry between the vapor layer and concrete. I would have also put some steel in the slab rebar or wire mesh or heck just some old band saw blades or old winch cable.
Vapor barrier keeps ground moisture from travelling up into the concrete. Nothing to do with moisture moving out of the concrete.
@@deernutOO so who told the concrete which way the moisture needs to go? Are you saying the concrete won't drive moisture into the layers between it and the vb?
liked the cat limbo . looking forward to the new kiln build .
In Denmark this construction has been standard for over fifty years. Normal concrete floors have an insulation of over 30 centimeters nowadays. And all over the floor. BUT next time you make this construction do not put the humidity membrane on the cold side. Your membrane will cause condensation over the membrane and thus fill the insulation with moist. The membran is to be placed over the insulation so that the water can run through the gravel and out.
Like your projects a lot.
Greatings from Denmark
thanks, appreciate it,
What is the plan with your old kiln? Will your sawmill stay where it is?
It seems you'll have various operations at opposite corners of your property?
still use it for short slabs and smaller loads,
sawmill will move in about two years closer to the new shop and kiln, I like to keep spread out so I can drive my tractor more, haha,
6:00 - "Hey look guys the human is making us a gigantic outdoor litterbox!"
9:00 - "Well, fooey."
Thank you for the video
Very impressive.
Bolts are backwards imo. Pt lumber will get dry rot with earth to wood contact just like regular wood. With the nuts on the outside , you can replace the 2x as needed. Great vids you produce.
now that would have been a better idea, totally agree,
After its poured the 2x can rot or come out no point in replacing it. It's just a form for the concrete and the insulation can be back filled against also
pull the bolts out and replace with a big concrete anchors when the time comes. doubt that time wil ever come tho.
Those bolts don’t look worthy of the corrosive chemicals in modern treated lumber and definitely undersized, IMO. Also, did dude use a tamper.?
@@ronzahursky7018 The bolts are non-structural, only there to keep the form in place so it can protect the insulation's exterior for however long the form lumber will last. If the bolts aren't too far gone by the time the lumber is rotted through, he could cut off whatever is left of the heads, thread the ends and attach some vinyl decking planks or other long-lasting covering instead.
Your right! I've spent 30 yrs making and delivering concrete, and I've never seen a pour quiet like this. Must cost extra for the driver to hang and extra chute. He could have saved that finisher alot of work. Just saying.
Contractors around here stopped using high-density foam board about 5 years ago. Now almost everyone uses spray foam. It glues plumbing in precise location. They can also easily make trenches where one needs more strength under load bearing walls or posts.
We have poured several slabs using rigid foam panels. We use house wrap tape on the. seams and line the bottom and sides of the footers and grade beams with rigid foam board as well. It works great.
nice,
For all the effort placed in building the slab, there should have been some reinforcement steel added for the perimeter beams and at least some wire woven fabric (WWF) added for strength as well as to control cracking from the heat caused by curing. Concrete is great for compressive loads but poor for tensile loads. Your slab will be subjected to tensile loading.
Keyboard engineer right?
@@jimamccracken5783 No, I was actually a Mechanical Engineer licensed in Alberta, Louisiana, as well as California. I supervised heavy industrial construction projects in Canada, USA, Brasil, Algeria, Malaysia, Vietnam and Thailand. Good enough for you?
Fiber mesh pour
@@kellyovermyer6453 Fiber mesh is great, but it does not replace rebar.
@@Elite59 no it doesn't but on a small pour like that it makes sense
Your a handier guy than me. But I got some questions about the bolts you used.
Maybe someone in the comments can answer this for me.
They look like plated steel, which I thought would react and rust when in contact with pressure treated. And they're Fine thread, so not much for the concrete to grab onto..
Wouldn't a galvanized lag "screw" work better for this application long term?
I'm excited to watch this project and see the final deal!
Nice job..Wood kiln is going to be great.
Yes it will
Great video! Good work! You have this down to a science! Thanks for posting!
thanks Tom,
Never in 40 years of laying concrete have I used clean gravel for a sub base.Usally you have fines in sub base so it can be compacted. .
Yup, like 3/4" minus...lots of looseness and settling to happen with what he did, but hey, cracked floors are all the rage I guess...
@@BMWSRR-yd6do The purpose of the sub base is to provide a capillary break so that you don't have moisture in contact with the bottom of the slab. Washed rock is less likely to develop musty odor issues that can result from pit run or 3/4 minus type mixed material. Depth to water table and soil drainage characteristics may require washed rock to have a dry slab. Never saw a poly apr barrier under a slab that didn't have some punctures in it. It is amazing what one hole can do over time.
Please write more. 'Usually you have fines in sub base' meaning what? Finer material?
@@wmc9722 Here in the UK, we would use Type 1sub base,a granular material with a maximum permitted stone size of 63mm, graded down to dust.The smaller sizes fill the voids when compacted, giving a very firm base with no settlement.which important,so a concrete base,doesn't crack.
@@stuartandrews4344 I see. I am learning. Years ago I wanted to know all I could about CONCRETE and then I never went down that path, ended up working in finance. Now, my life is such that I can learn about concrete AND build whatever I want to build. I am trying to get an old Mediterranean house, 4000sqft, in a rich neighborhood and I'm going to build on to it, many ideas. Thanks for writing.
I think the order should be fill, compacted, iso-foam boards, ten mil vapor barrier and then your concrete. Got to allow the water from the compacted fill and earth below to drain, vapor barrier keeps that moisture out of your shop and also prevents "iceberg-effect" with your foam boards on the concrete pour. But what do I know....
That’s how we do it adding chairs and rebar on the stego wrap.
Grant Smith hhh
A great deal more than this guy!!!...I'd like to see him scratching his head when his iso-boards start to float mysteriously...
Yup plastic on top of the boards
Hey Rich Vannatta....are you from north Jersey?
Insulated monolithic slab. Nice
I really like your watering bucket. Keep it wet, looking good.
are you not going to have voids under the foam insulation which will make the slab crack?
Of course. Especially under the heavy loads he plans to put on it. And without any reinforcement, this slab will crumble like a chocolate chip cookie in some 2 years.
even with fiber concrete, should have had rebar around the perimeter.
I enjoy watching videos like this showing new ways of doing things coming up with ideas
Thanks. Appreciate you watching
Nice cement work.
A Pro.
no boots required or even stepping in it..u can do all that from the edge..tapp those walls 2
And this ladies and gentlemen is how Jimmy Hoffa was never found again
Jimmy Hoffa's final spot will be revealed soon. My pal told me they have it and will do the reveal after the election. Perhaps January 2021.
W M C is your pal Italian and connected 😂😂😂
@@annotten7413
He is NOT Italian and, yes, he is connected as he makes connections.... perhaps some of them are older Mob-Types, or their direct relatives, say, a daughter or a neice. It's not all that cryptic. My pal applies and has applied intense manpower of the highest level to figure out 'what really happened' in a number of different worldclass cases. When he makes a big discovery he usually tells me what it is and when the reveal will happen.
W M C well let’s see what happens -- hopefully it’s not another Al Copen’s vault
Did anyone look under that kiln slab?
Good evening Nathan,
I am excited for you as you build the kiln. The mill up here just send a young man to school were he learned about kiln drying lumber in large quantities. There may be a kiln up here in the not to far future.
thanks David,
@@OutoftheWoods0623
You're welcome. Have a good evening.
Years ago I built my 4 car garage that way. 2" foam over plastic with under-slab. Re-bar and steel mesh with air lines under the slab, so I could run air tools and not have to listen to a compressor. I power troweled the slab to make is smooth and easy to seep, but the only drawback with the insulation etc. was that condensation would form on the slab if the temps and the relative humidity in the garage was right and the floor would be like ice to walk on. Very slippery.
I would have either vibrated the concrete around the edges or hammer tapped the forms to rid the edges of honey combs . . . (sorry, OCD Civil Engineer)
Would it not crack?
not necessary in small things like this especially since the form boards are staying there so you won't be able to see anything
Place some #4 rebar around the perimeter. It holds the whole show together.
@@hiddensprings4195 They sandwiched something that is not cement.
great ideas, hard to even find pressure treated around here lately
Ya that’s everywhere. Lumber shortage with the pandemic and when you can get it they charge you double. Should be considered gouging but they let that go too.
The price is plummeting in November already.
Good idea.
Good job
id still like to see a nut and washer on the bolts for positive force/holding
I can't see what all the "nut and bolt" comments are all about? What "force/holding"? The shuttering is already braced for the pour, once the concrete has set all those bolts are doing is holding the boards up and maybe a little, if any, pressure from the aggregate/hardcore? Surely once the concrete has set those boards do nothing?
The concrete would get a more dependable grip on the 6 in. bolts if each one had 2 nuts w/ a large washer between them.
Yes, there should be at least one two or three inch square piece of metal with a nut on each side of it to give it something to bite onto, rather than simply pull right out. And not any rebar for support.
Day late, dollar short on that idea for here.
@@g.r.4853 Apparently he said he used fiber reinforced concrete for this pour. I still don't trust it to hold a slim bolt.
@@jmackinjersey1 I was thinking of going all the way to the other side for support. Short of placing 'all-thread' I may have used a nice stainless cable all the way from one side to the other.
@@wmc9722 For this application, I think that would be way too much over kill and costly. But I'm still not sure how he is going to attach the wall bottom plates to this concrete. I didn't see any bolts facing up.
Lol one of a kind pour that’s for sure...
Looks great👍
Thanks 👍
My gosh man..after you dumped the fill you could've spead it a tad with the bucket...lol but knowing myself I'd probably done the same..
I said the same thing to myself, however, I would have used the bucket to spread it out a bit. This guy made some serious mistakes in this pour. From loose concrete etc. etc..
@@dukeman7595 and not picking up the scraps a foam before the gravel, prolly not a huge deal, But i admit , i was cringing the entire time
Don't understand why, if you are insulating the slab, you didn't go form to form with the foam under the slab. Your thermal break is totally defeated.
because he was trying to give the outer edge of the slab more of a footer style pour. There will be walls on the outside edge and the thicker concrete around the edges will hold up to the extra weight and reduce chances of settling on the outside.
he left a couple trim cuts of foam under the gravel
@@williammitchell8247 then you dig deeper around the perimeter and you still use foam. I have put up 40,000 sq ft buildings with grade beam footings like you refer to. If you are using foam you use it everywhere. The guy is trying his best but he doesn't know what he is doing.
@@craiglaub5659 I am not saying you are wrong, I have never seen anyone insulate a slab like this either. I was just simply clarifying why I thought he didn't go form to form. I am sure there are several ways he could have done this better.
@@williammitchell8247 It keeps footings from frost heaving.
Ok I've never thought of doing anything like that but then again I don't do to much concrete work so I guess I learned something today. Hope it turns out alright for you
For a one man show you did really well. Good on you fella!!!
thanks for watching,
I like the idea of insulation with the concrete, but I would have leveled out the gravel smooth first. There is air pockets and voids under the insulation. this will settle over time and cause the concrete to crack,
At least pour a layer of crete that'll pretty much self level after putting the insulation on top of it. Then fill it the rest of the way i guess?
I'm no Expert but I think;
4" inches would be plenty strong with some rebar in the concrete, that's it,
Whatever floats your boat
Very nice work
Thank you! Cheers!