Around 11:50 when she is exiting the crux and says she is going for that jug, I thought well that's what it takes to be world class! Call everything a jug! Great send, great video. Thanks.
Dude thank you so much for your video!!! I just started climbing this year and I'm completely in love with the sport / hobby / life style!! Your videos are amazing and I really like how you bring the history into the mix. This year has been a year of onsites for me and I feel like it helps connect me to the past and present in the gunks. Gunkie for life
Get out there and crush! All of the tactics and mindset I go over in my videos are applicable to all styles of climbing, including onsighting. Glad you like it.
Nice episode! Great climbing and video work, especially the gear closeups. Eastern Trade Outro was cool too. I have a few original issues. Do you think Stannard clipped fixed pins on his FA. Sometimes you can see the scars. Can you conceive of the passive gear placements (no RPs, offsets or even curved nuts) on THoHN? Finally, is anyone climbing hard ground up leads in the Gunks?
I did To Have a while ago and I think there could be passive placements at the roof and above as Liza used. I personally used nuts where she used cams in the upper section. If there was any existing pins on it, I don't know, maybe a couple under the roof before the crux? I suppose the only person I know who was recently doing 12R onsights is Will Moss, who onsighted half the workout wall shortly before he left NY. Headpointing seems to be the accepted style. No use in getting injured or worse out there!
I agree that the pitons should not be replaced with new ones when they are deemed unsafe / found to be loose etc. I do not think they should be removed however. Clip and back up. Many times the piton is placed in a crack much too small or flared to be of use even with modern gear. Not every one is a bong. Plenty of lost arrows banged into tiny vertical slits of rock out there. On another note I wonder what Stannard thought of the bolt evolution and the bolt wars of the 80's. I am glad that we don't have an ethic that allows for it. Not just because I can't climb 5.14 lol. I enjoy the idea that some things you just don't get to climb because they are too dangerous for one's ability. I'm o.k. with those limits and against the idea that everyone should get to do every thing and it needs to be made safe for everyone. Lastly, I personally don't see headpointing as a new ethic as it essentially evolved from the redpointing ethic brought here from Europe (mainly French) climbers in the 1980's. Whether you spend time hang-dogging on a TR or during a slow lead ascent that you don't yoyo with your buddy, it's the same thing. Headpointing is an easier redpoint, assisted by a TR (I get that it's mainly used because the route would be dangerous to redpoint.)
Mikeyyy, Most of those lost arrow pin scars can easily be plugged with a green z4 or a red ballnut. Let them all rot away. In terms of harder redpoints, I think it just limits an area to a certain degree. I don't climb 5.14 either but there are definitely some harder roofs in the gunks which may go at that grade as either X++++ leads or ridiculous, undirectionalled TRs which would require starting over every time you fell. I'm not sure what sort of purity line we're holding here when it comes to that. Headpointing is new-ish to the gunks specifically, although headpointing was an accepted standard in places like the Grit long before they were here. In a modern sense, it's definitely seen a revival and is the accepted style of ascent now. I think that qualifies it as a new ethic, if rap-bolt sport climbing existed in Europe in the 80s, but only made it's way over to Yosemite in the late 80s, obviously that would be a new ethic for the area as it gained popularity.
John Stannard: Hero... bolting climbs is a very slippery slope. All pins should/could be removed; modern gear rack should include a few Ball Nutz and various micro cams.
Wow! Liza and Jordan are full heros! Great vid with really excellent interviews. I think that certainly this is your best one yet!! Thank you so much!
Mad respect to the RRG, glad you enjoyed.
Around 11:50 when she is exiting the crux and says she is going for that jug, I thought well that's what it takes to be world class! Call everything a jug! Great send, great video. Thanks.
Used to be a jug before my chunky self crumbled it to bits!
Really had some sweaty palms watching that - cool vid Eric & dope send Liza!
Boulder bros + trad dads taking over youtube
Great vid Eric! Nice job Liza, very solid climbing and creative gear.
Thanks dude! Ten Sleep soon
Nice interview and history. This video has particularly good closeups of the holds and gear!
Thanks Jesse! Nice meeting you the other day however brief.
Dude thank you so much for your video!!! I just started climbing this year and I'm completely in love with the sport / hobby / life style!! Your videos are amazing and I really like how you bring the history into the mix.
This year has been a year of onsites for me and I feel like it helps connect me to the past and present in the gunks.
Gunkie for life
Get out there and crush! All of the tactics and mindset I go over in my videos are applicable to all styles of climbing, including onsighting. Glad you like it.
From the keyboard, that run out looks fully like X rated ground fall territory. A bold lead, and great content (as always).
It's 5.10 X for sure!
That bra strap gear beta is legendary!
The Aid Bra, the newest innovation in climbing equipment.
😂
Liza and Jordan right on
Legends
Nice episode! Great climbing and video work, especially the gear closeups. Eastern Trade Outro was cool too. I have a few original issues. Do you think Stannard clipped fixed pins on his FA. Sometimes you can see the scars. Can you conceive of the passive gear placements (no RPs, offsets or even curved nuts) on THoHN?
Finally, is anyone climbing hard ground up leads in the Gunks?
I did To Have a while ago and I think there could be passive placements at the roof and above as Liza used. I personally used nuts where she used cams in the upper section. If there was any existing pins on it, I don't know, maybe a couple under the roof before the crux?
I suppose the only person I know who was recently doing 12R onsights is Will Moss, who onsighted half the workout wall shortly before he left NY. Headpointing seems to be the accepted style. No use in getting injured or worse out there!
I agree that the pitons should not be replaced with new ones when they are deemed unsafe / found to be loose etc. I do not think they should be removed however. Clip and back up. Many times the piton is placed in a crack much too small or flared to be of use even with modern gear. Not every one is a bong. Plenty of lost arrows banged into tiny vertical slits of rock out there.
On another note I wonder what Stannard thought of the bolt evolution and the bolt wars of the 80's. I am glad that we don't have an ethic that allows for it. Not just because I can't climb 5.14 lol. I enjoy the idea that some things you just don't get to climb because they are too dangerous for one's ability. I'm o.k. with those limits and against the idea that everyone should get to do every thing and it needs to be made safe for everyone.
Lastly, I personally don't see headpointing as a new ethic as it essentially evolved from the redpointing ethic brought here from Europe (mainly French) climbers in the 1980's. Whether you spend time hang-dogging on a TR or during a slow lead ascent that you don't yoyo with your buddy, it's the same thing. Headpointing is an easier redpoint, assisted by a TR (I get that it's mainly used because the route would be dangerous to redpoint.)
Mikeyyy, Most of those lost arrow pin scars can easily be plugged with a green z4 or a red ballnut. Let them all rot away.
In terms of harder redpoints, I think it just limits an area to a certain degree. I don't climb 5.14 either but there are definitely some harder roofs in the gunks which may go at that grade as either X++++ leads or ridiculous, undirectionalled TRs which would require starting over every time you fell. I'm not sure what sort of purity line we're holding here when it comes to that.
Headpointing is new-ish to the gunks specifically, although headpointing was an accepted standard in places like the Grit long before they were here. In a modern sense, it's definitely seen a revival and is the accepted style of ascent now. I think that qualifies it as a new ethic, if rap-bolt sport climbing existed in Europe in the 80s, but only made it's way over to Yosemite in the late 80s, obviously that would be a new ethic for the area as it gained popularity.
Dwayne the crag cat
coming to your proj watch out
@@headpointhandbook if only
John Stannard: Hero... bolting climbs is a very slippery slope. All pins should/could be removed; modern gear rack should include a few Ball Nutz and various micro cams.
I think existing climbs should not be bolted, but there should be some sort of review process for bolting new lines.