Видео

"I didnt put in more gear, because i couldn't. I didnt wear a helmet, because i didnt want to" best fucking quote I've heard in awhile bro. Put that on a t shirt and I'm buying.

great content man, appreciate the effort all y'all put into the video and climb. badass shit.

I appreciate your video but your opinion is colored by the progress capture you're using. The shunt operates much differently than a Micro Traxion and/or a Spoc. I use Brents (Avant) bungee all the time often on meandering routes and have never experienced any issues with the device feeding, or anything else you mention.

Love every part of the video except the part where u tell us to have kids lol… fuck that

my coach is goated

Love your vids, impressive stuff. If you ever need a solid belay hit me up. Paul Whitehead on MP.

Very cool! Congrats. I need to get on that route!

Putting bolts in this climb would RUIN the new york countryside I'm sure

I hope to run into you one day Erik-I was telling Liza Schwartz the other day that I have some great stories of the 1st ascents of a bunch of these routes for you, that you might have never heard before.

RE the Avant Quick Fires: I designed a widget that works the same way as the Quick Fires, but it can be 3D printed at home with cheap ABS plastic. Let me know if you're interested and I can send you the STL file. Great video as always, love the channel

Great lead dude, that pecker is nuclear

sick dude nice job

Wow congrats! you looked solid and well composed.

Guidebooks tend to have text about routes so that you can contextualize the grade. You can say ''the climbing is 12b, placing the gear is quite tricky and strenuous''. A few ominous words can compensate a slight sandbag IMO.

0 stars? To me that sequence looks amazing. Maybe I just really like sharp crimps. Your videos get me so hyped to do more trad climbing.

Thank you for making these videos. I love them

☠️☠️☠️

i appreciate your comments about the UK trad grading ethics, though imo they go too far in the other direction. when an E5 could be anything from a 5.11a/b to a 5.12c, it just leaves so much room for people to get in over their heads. i think your upgrading of the route a grade for a particular gear placement seems extremely reasonable and fair though

One of the last glory days of the season

Hey Eric. Glad to see another upload from you. Your channel inspired me to do my first headpoint this season - an unpopular 11 PG13 (also my first) with not many repeats at my local crag. Okay okay, it wasn't a 12 R/X, but it's a start. I enjoyed the overall process much more than the send, which felt like a blip. Not trying to spray, just wanted to say I wouldn't have tried it/gotten inspiration without watching your channel, so thanks! I'm being one of those weenies that comments before watching the video, so I'll go do that.

Such a clean sequence. It's been a minute since watching your stuff, but just want to say thanks again for the up close shots of holds and placements! Makes you feel so present as a viewer, and get a better understanding of hold types and positions. Great content as always, and congrats on the sweet send!

Love to see it

Why not change out the pitons? That is pretty standard to replace fixed gear like that...

What's up with the audio during the send, all buzzing on my end. Sick send!

Liza and Jordan right on

Dwayne the crag cat

From the keyboard, that run out looks fully like X rated ground fall territory. A bold lead, and great content (as always).

Great vid Eric! Nice job Liza, very solid climbing and creative gear.

Really had some sweaty palms watching that - cool vid Eric & dope send Liza!

John Stannard: Hero... bolting climbs is a very slippery slope. All pins should/could be removed; modern gear rack should include a few Ball Nutz and various micro cams.

I agree that the pitons should not be replaced with new ones when they are deemed unsafe / found to be loose etc. I do not think they should be removed however. Clip and back up. Many times the piton is placed in a crack much too small or flared to be of use even with modern gear. Not every one is a bong. Plenty of lost arrows banged into tiny vertical slits of rock out there. On another note I wonder what Stannard thought of the bolt evolution and the bolt wars of the 80's. I am glad that we don't have an ethic that allows for it. Not just because I can't climb 5.14 lol. I enjoy the idea that some things you just don't get to climb because they are too dangerous for one's ability. I'm o.k. with those limits and against the idea that everyone should get to do every thing and it needs to be made safe for everyone. Lastly, I personally don't see headpointing as a new ethic as it essentially evolved from the redpointing ethic brought here from Europe (mainly French) climbers in the 1980's. Whether you spend time hang-dogging on a TR or during a slow lead ascent that you don't yoyo with your buddy, it's the same thing. Headpointing is an easier redpoint, assisted by a TR (I get that it's mainly used because the route would be dangerous to redpoint.)

Dude thank you so much for your video!!! I just started climbing this year and I'm completely in love with the sport / hobby / life style!! Your videos are amazing and I really like how you bring the history into the mix. This year has been a year of onsites for me and I feel like it helps connect me to the past and present in the gunks. Gunkie for life

Nice episode! Great climbing and video work, especially the gear closeups. Eastern Trade Outro was cool too. I have a few original issues. Do you think Stannard clipped fixed pins on his FA. Sometimes you can see the scars. Can you conceive of the passive gear placements (no RPs, offsets or even curved nuts) on THoHN? Finally, is anyone climbing hard ground up leads in the Gunks?

Around 11:50 when she is exiting the crux and says she is going for that jug, I thought well that's what it takes to be world class! Call everything a jug! Great send, great video. Thanks.

Wow! Liza and Jordan are full heros! Great vid with really excellent interviews. I think that certainly this is your best one yet!! Thank you so much!

That bra strap gear beta is legendary!

Nice interview and history. This video has particularly good closeups of the holds and gear!

Super sick line, I hope Eric has gotten his tongue lashings for breaking the jug.

What's the advantage of using a bungie as compared to using a 120cm sling like shown in this video here? ruclips.net/video/-AZlCUfCmXU/видео.htmlsi=7-IBMkfHjsWh2AtF I could imagine a bungie would be more adjustable, but a sling would basically guarantee that you couldnt fall upside down

What’s the difference between never free soloing and climbing 5.9X sections

No need to wear a helmet if there is nothing to protect.

such good interviews and detailed description. Love the zoom-ins on holds and gear!

Always a pleasure to watch your videos. I especially love the attention to gear and gear placement. I would like to meet you and some other climbers as I climb and live near the gunks. I am also on the climbers trail crew and volunteer to make our climbing trails better for all who climb at the gunks. Feel free to meaaage me anytime. I am always looking for helpful people who could make my climbing better. I am no where near your level but, I love the sport and have only been climbing for 4 years and am 45 years old. So thank you for your videos and sharing your valuable knowledge making the gunks a better place to climb.

Smooth. Had that beta dialed!

I’d like to get after this, so any gear beta in a breakdown would be great

The move out of the dihedral looks creepy and committing. I hope you can post some move video of this route edited in your unique "headpoint" style.

Thanks for the video but I will say the close ups of holds and gear are what sets your channel aside from anything else out there!

you're an idiot

Crazy cool exposure

Love to see another video breaking down this climb