Awesome send. For what it’s worth this is a variation on the original route which climbs the crimpy orange face basically straight up from the first crux.
Hey Jason, I remember you not being able to remember how the line climbed the day we met. I, and several other strong climbers have tried the direct line you describe and it seems much closer to 13b/c free-soloing. In an old email to Andy Salo you describe the crux of this route as the low seam, which is incompatible with the direct micro crimp climbing because the crux would certainly be that crimpy face. I think as I climbed it the route is solid 12d. I have been puzzled by this for a while and could see that you plausibly did climb direct direct and either sandbagged the route, something broke since, or you're simply confused. Would love to hear more about what gear you used in the seam and anything else you can remember because I would genuinely like to know the truth of this route.@@jasonstern8417
@@headpointhandbook Again, amazing send. Your videos are a gift and an inspiration. Thank you for sharing your journey. And thanks for the shoutout. Yes, the original line definitely goes to the right, up the orange face. Definitely harder, but that's the route which I recalled when I got on it again for the first time since the FA in 1988. Don't recall talking or emailing with Andy. We never met as our periods of climbing in the Gunks didn't overlap. And yes, a free solo. The last gear was before the first crux. I was a bit of a crazed teenager, but was climbing 5.14 so it was in my grasp. That said it is one of the more spiritual experiences of that brief climbing career. I felt some kind of angelic help keeping me on during the final moves up the orange face which I had never actually linked on toprope.
I just gotta say the way you edit your videos with multiple angels and have the smaller window showing gear and holds up close is so awesome for the experience of watching you climb these scary routes. The way you make your climbing videos is absolutely my favorite.
Great video Eric. Each video keeps getting more and more detailed on sending routes like these. Very inspiring and pushes me to try harder than I ever thought I would!
Thanks for sharingnthis. Is that skyhook and multi-piece protection related to climbing very far left, like one or two pieces alone might not hold with the sideways forces during a big swing?
Yeah that’s exactly why. All the gear placements are meant to increase the chances of any one piece of gear holding. The hook is clipped at the “bottom” of all the gear, in the event it all ripped, it would minimize the swing. Gear placement is an engineering problem!
Perhaps to an extent, but I do think it's important to remember that no rock is ever going to love you back, and ultimately risking your life for it is always some form of a selfish pursuit, for whatever reason that may be.
this is rad dude excellent work. however i dont think people are really going to like those punkies when they start yanking jugs and crucial holds off the wall. aid hooks are one thing but youre putting way more force on those punk pieces by taking a larger whip
Thank you, I really appreciate it. I can see this argument, I think though, you could make the argument of any modern climbing equipment. A nut behind a flake could just as easily blow the flake. Repeated cam usage in the creek blowing out cracks, and on and on. I think the use of these hooks is so niche the direct impact will be much more negligible than your average piece of gear, though definitely something to consider.
Yes, that is what happens in this video and all of my other videos. Climbing is a risk assessment, and climbing without a helmet is a risk I'm perfectly willing to make. PLEASE FORGIVE ME
Maybe the best hidden gem climbing channel on RUclips.
That’s really kind of you to say, I know a few other good ones. Tell all your friends so we’re a not-so-hidden gem haha
Awesome send. For what it’s worth this is a variation on the original route which climbs the crimpy orange face basically straight up from the first crux.
Hey Jason, I remember you not being able to remember how the line climbed the day we met. I, and several other strong climbers have tried the direct line you describe and it seems much closer to 13b/c free-soloing. In an old email to Andy Salo you describe the crux of this route as the low seam, which is incompatible with the direct micro crimp climbing because the crux would certainly be that crimpy face. I think as I climbed it the route is solid 12d. I have been puzzled by this for a while and could see that you plausibly did climb direct direct and either sandbagged the route, something broke since, or you're simply confused. Would love to hear more about what gear you used in the seam and anything else you can remember because I would genuinely like to know the truth of this route.@@jasonstern8417
@@headpointhandbook Again, amazing send. Your videos are a gift and an inspiration. Thank you for sharing your journey. And thanks for the shoutout.
Yes, the original line definitely goes to the right, up the orange face. Definitely harder, but that's the route which I recalled when I got on it again for the first time since the FA in 1988. Don't recall talking or emailing with Andy. We never met as our periods of climbing in the Gunks didn't overlap.
And yes, a free solo. The last gear was before the first crux. I was a bit of a crazed teenager, but was climbing 5.14 so it was in my grasp.
That said it is one of the more spiritual experiences of that brief climbing career. I felt some kind of angelic help keeping me on during the final moves up the orange face which I had never actually linked on toprope.
Awesome man, thanks for the info!@@jasonstern8417
I just gotta say the way you edit your videos with multiple angels and have the smaller window showing gear and holds up close is so awesome for the experience of watching you climb these scary routes. The way you make your climbing videos is absolutely my favorite.
Thank you! Demystify the process.
Another sick video. I love that you are documenting all these climbs. It's a super modern aesthetic for an old-fashioned crag.
Thank you. The thing is people have been shredding this stuff for years but nobody ever documented it. Bring the gunks back!
So sick!!! This channel gets me so stoked!!!
STEP INTO THE VOID
Great video Eric. Each video keeps getting more and more detailed on sending routes like these. Very inspiring and pushes me to try harder than I ever thought I would!
Never would've happened without my OG trad partner
Great vid to show the applied logic of extending your runners! eek.
I'm glad you noticed that, making sure the hooks are the last to catch the fall is incredibly important to ensure a safely directional fall.
Great to see all that hard work pay off! Sick send bro!
Couldn't have happened without your support homie!
Love all the post production you put into this video man. Amazing video, great work.
Thanks dude! My wife does all the heavy lifting, I'm just the dummy that does the climbing.
Another compelling video. Really appreciate the time you put in to these, especially since you have a new born. It can't be easy juggling both!
It's worth every second!
yea man. solid stuff. glad you're not too too quiet, these vids rock.
WE WON'T BE QUIET ANYMORE
Great video, Jason Stern is the real deal. That hook thing looks really solid.
Thanks seth, you're the man! Those hooks are hardcore for sure.
Sick video! Crazy climb
Thanks dude!
Great video! Keep it up!
Good shit as always dude!
Thanks dude! Glad you dig it.
Thanks for sharingnthis. Is that skyhook and multi-piece protection related to climbing very far left, like one or two pieces alone might not hold with the sideways forces during a big swing?
Yeah that’s exactly why. All the gear placements are meant to increase the chances of any one piece of gear holding. The hook is clipped at the “bottom” of all the gear, in the event it all ripped, it would minimize the swing. Gear placement is an engineering problem!
Cool disclaimer, but risk is an inherent part to many journeys of meaning.
Perhaps to an extent, but I do think it's important to remember that no rock is ever going to love you back, and ultimately risking your life for it is always some form of a selfish pursuit, for whatever reason that may be.
my hero
My coach!
Great video, this officially removes the 'death route' status
I wouldn't fall there again! Still a gamble, that gear is jank. Hook is the best piece.
this is rad dude excellent work. however i dont think people are really going to like those punkies when they start yanking jugs and crucial holds off the wall. aid hooks are one thing but youre putting way more force on those punk pieces by taking a larger whip
Thank you, I really appreciate it. I can see this argument, I think though, you could make the argument of any modern climbing equipment. A nut behind a flake could just as easily blow the flake. Repeated cam usage in the creek blowing out cracks, and on and on. I think the use of these hooks is so niche the direct impact will be much more negligible than your average piece of gear, though definitely something to consider.
*keh-cheh*
Hook, line, and sinker
Where’s your helmet?
Right there on my head.
I appreciate your video. However ,you discuss safety of the gear and then we see you start up the route without a helmet, on a known dangerous climb.
Yes, that is what happens in this video and all of my other videos. Climbing is a risk assessment, and climbing without a helmet is a risk I'm perfectly willing to make. PLEASE FORGIVE ME
Woooah super impressive