One of the most informative videos I've seen on spraying! We have a very small orchard (10 trees and 2 grape vines) but this past year we had a huge problem with codling moths and peach curl. This definitely gives me a great plan on how to go forward!
Great information! Very informative. This will be my first year spraying dormant oil for my orchard that’s 3 years old. I’m learning a lot and learning something new every year. Better now than never. Thanks for the information. Edit: I was also wondering if you could do a video on “codling moth” I had a BIG infestation that wiped out 95 % of my harvest on my fruit trees. I’ve learned more about this year and I’m ready to combat them nexts year.
Excellent demonstration. Glad I found your channel. What about spaying AFTER the buds have fallen. I've been told that just using something with sulfur and pyrethrin (like Bonide Orchard Spray) as their active ingredients is what you want to use and spray every 10 days.
Hi Ali. Excellent video with lots of great information. Thank you for it. I presume that's a 25 gallon sprayer in your video based on you mentioning the 125T. I have roughly the same amount of trees, mostly apples with a few pears, plums and peaches in the mix. Do you recommend this size sprayer?
It does make the job so much quicker. When my trees were small I used a back pack sprayer and that made the job pretty quick. I could just pump as i went. But, I really do like my 25 gallon sprayer!
@@Alisorganics Thanks for the reply. I'm looking at various model that would work with my deere mower. All have positive and negative reviews which makes it even more difficult when the budget is tight.
I use Monterey Garden & Insect spray for apples & pears through the growing season. It has spinosad in it. I don't spray apricots, cherries, figs, plums, or our persimmons other than during the dormant season. They rarely get pests. The peach trees I will spray the spinosad about two weeks before they ripen.
Hi this was helpful... question: my dwarf apple tree is right next to a raised garden vegetable bed... will these treatments of oil and copper effect my organic veggies since the spray will likely get into the raised bed as well?
I have some apple trees near my garden and I don’t want to copper on my soil because it is a fungicide. I lay a floating row cover over the nearing beds to stop the majority of the spray.
I just planted trees last year. I sprayed them thanksgiving, Christmas, Valentine’s Day. You said don’t spray them when flowers are on. Can I spray them again if fruit starts to grow? What is summer spraying tips? I’m new to this and from PA. If you, or anyone, can help me and give me tips 🙏
I plan on doing a summer fruit tree care video! So stay tuned! Anyway, you can spray, you will just need to switch to a different spray. I use neem or spinosad for my peaches, pears and apples. My cherries, figs, apricots and plums never seem to have a problem. Copper shouldn't be sprayed expect during the dormant season. I hope that helps for now! 😊
I'm looking to make a repellent with essential oils and a carrier oil to spray around doors, fruit flies and gnats are BAD out here. I want to use a carrier oil so that it leaves a residue that lasts for a few days or so. Will horticultural oil work to mix with an essential oil? Or maybe mineral oil?
Dear Ali, so sorry for the long intro to my concerns about my 3 pink cherry blossom trees. Two years ago, I had to cut & treat the branches of the bigger, older tree because it had Fire Blight. This Spring, the tree began to bud with upward-growing branches and flowers. Needless to say, I was delighted to think that my tree was going to be okay, or not. This morning, I noticed a black covering over the parts of the tree that were cut down. I don't know what that is and I'm afraid that my 18-year-old tree will have to be cut down, completely. I haven't gone outdoors to take a closer look at the blackened parts of the tree because it's raining at the moment. In fact, this year in TN the weather has been cold, rainy, and damp. 1. Is a tree ever free of Blight, even after taking the steps to cure it? My other cherry blossom tree has a huge split and a bulge down the middle of the truck that seems to look worse this year. The tree is in full bloom and I don't see signs of Blight on the branches or flowers. 2. Could it be Blight? My third cherry blossom tree is much smaller than the first 2. It looks wonderful! 3. Is it in danger of becoming infected with Blight? I am very concerned that other trees in my yard will also get infected with this Fire Blight decease. Two years ago my husband dug out our apple tree. It had all the symptoms of Fire Blight but at the time I didn't know about Blight. But now, I'm sure it was Blight. Please help and thank you, Ms. Ali and anyone else for your feedback. I look forward to your suggestions and advice.
Fire blight and blights of tree trees are tough! It tends to get worse when the weather is damp and/or warm. My understanding is fire blight and other fruit tree blights never go away once in a tree, but can be controlled by proper pruning and dormant spray maintenance. Keeping the diseased wood removed or burned ASAP. Prune for more air circulation. Prune diseased wood to healthy wood and clean pruners between EVERY cut so as not to infect healthy wood. You can treat Brown Rot Blossom Blight and Fire Blight during the growing season with Serenade Bacteria subtilis and copper in the winter (dormant) months. The cherry tree splitting can be a few different things. Freezing temperatures can cause trees to split when the warm sun hits the trunk in the morning. I’m not sure if that’s the case.. Did you have a cold winter? Most everyone in our area has fire blight in their pears. I had it real bad for a couple years, years back. It’s not near as bad now and we get nice fruit. I carefully prune, opening up for more air flow, keep pruners clean between cuts and spray copper during the winter months. When it was at its worst, I sprayed Serenade three times during the growing season. May, June, July. During the warmest months I see the very tips start to turn and I trim those off. These blights spread very easy! I hope that helps you a little bit.
I seen someone comment on another web site to not use the copper and horticulture together? ? i don't know why but they said before or after either way around. basically not to mix them.
I’ve seen that as well. I know there is plenty of confusion on this issue. You do have to make sure your trees are dormant or the spray can burn the leaves. Temps need to be above 40° for the copper to work and not above 80-85° or that can burn as well. You also want to make sure to use Monterey horticulture oil and not the old style “yellow” dormant oil which, in my opinion isn’t as good or as safe to mix. The horticulture oil should be white in color and not have a bad ammonia smell or dark color. I hope that helps. Your question actually was helpful to me. This is something I probably should address in a future video. Thank you so much! 😊
I just stumbled upon this vid. I have 2 cherry trees and 3 apples. Is it ok to spray them now? I did not do that last fall and winter. I am in Maryland location right on DC border. Thank you for your time!
Hi Ali, I used copper fungicide and neem oil in December and March. I have no peach flowers and no cherry flowers, and very few of apply flowers. I think this should connect to the copper I used. I am curious no people say that using copper may not even get any fruit.
I used this combo for years with success… and get fruit. There are so many variables that can cause no flower/fruit. An interesting fact, I have an apricot tree in my front yard that I did not spray this this year, but had an amazing bloom, but no fruit. We had a wet cold spring and there was absolutely no bee activity. I hope that helps.
I use spinosad. Monterey has a product called Garden and Insect Spray that contains it. It’s a bacteria. I spray my apples and pears every 2-3 weeks. We have lots of pests that get those. I don’t do anything to my persimmons, cherries or apricots. Nothing seems to bother those. Peaches, I’ll spray about a 4-5 weeks before ripe and again about a week before harvest. That’s the routine that works for me. Neem can also be used in f your summer aren’t blazing like ours.
I use the 5 tablespoons per gallon of water for my fruit trees when dormant. We have so many aphids and other pests that I want to make sure I get them.
I'm getting ready to start growing fruit n was wondering if you use anything when the fruit is growing if you had any problems or do you not use anything in season when the fruit is growing???
Peaches, pears and apples are my biggest problems. I’ll spray spinosad on apples and pears once the petals drop and monthly till ripe. (They are a bit of a pain here) Peaches I’ll spray once I just start to see color with spinosad or fruit tree plus. Plums, cherries and apricots generally don’t need any spraying if I spray the dormant oil. I hope that helps. 😌
Hi Ali, I have a peach tree with peaches on it, but the leaves are more yellow and red, plus there is some sap appearing here and there. This is the first yr. to get the peaches. I have a 2nd peach tree that is nice and green but no fruit. What can I do with the 1st tree?
I used neem during the growing season for pear rust in an orchard I was tending and it didn't seem to control it. After that I used the copper during the dormant season and it was a big help. Two years and it was no longer a problem. So, for personal use.... It didn't work on the pear rust. I haven't used it for apple scab personally, but the label does not suggest it would work.
@@Alisorganics thank you, Ali! I’m glad you tried it. I will try copper this month on my pear. Also, what would you recommend for tiny mites on raspberries? Little black bugs that jump a bit, more pronounced later in the raspberry season when they get crowded.
I haven't had any issues. Bonide & Monterey do say you can mix them. Now, that being said, "dormant oil" and "horticulture oil" is a bit different and I don't use dormant oil. It's a thicker, much heavier. The hort oil mixes well with copper.
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You are an excellent teacher. Very good demo and lots of good info.
One of the most informative videos I've seen on spraying! We have a very small orchard (10 trees and 2 grape vines) but this past year we had a huge problem with codling moths and peach curl. This definitely gives me a great plan on how to go forward!
Glad it was helpful!
It's so kind that you looked out for the tiny insect.
The being able to mix the two together is the absolute money information thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Great information! Very informative. This will be my first year spraying dormant oil for my orchard that’s 3 years old. I’m learning a lot and learning something new every year. Better now than never. Thanks for the information.
Edit: I was also wondering if you could do a video on “codling moth” I had a BIG infestation that wiped out 95 % of my harvest on my fruit trees. I’ve learned more about this year and I’m ready to combat them nexts year.
Great Idea! I'll put that on my calendar to do. Thank you!
Very good info Ali - now I know how to treat my newly planted peach & nectarines - thank you!
Steve
Excellent video!!! Lots of good points!!! Thanks!!!
Best video for protecting trees, ever! Thank you, I subbed
Excellent demonstration. Glad I found your channel. What about spaying AFTER the buds have fallen. I've been told that just using something with sulfur and pyrethrin (like Bonide Orchard Spray) as their active ingredients is what you want to use and spray every 10 days.
Thanks. In Michigan it gets hard to spray our young apple trees. This will help.
You welcome!
Very helpful, thank you!
awesome job- one of the best vids I have seen seen- very nice j
Thank you so much! 😊
Good video and very informative. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great advice,thank you.
Hi
I wondered what happened to you didnt see you for years,looking good,cheers.:)
I had a long break for sure! 😁 Thanks!
@@Alisorganics
keep uploading i enjoy seeing you one of the most beautiful ladys that i like.
See you around take care of yourself.:)🌷
Thanks great video
You explained it so well,thank you 😊
You're welcome 😊
It is good things
Thank you! Awesome video. Do you recommend applying the horizontal+Cooper treatment to avocado trees in Florid? Thank you
What about neem oil & newly planted apple trees ? Great info & video ! Thx 👍⚾️
Neem works good as well. The horticulture oil seems like it works better for aphid eggs though.
I was about to ask you what you do about Praying Mantis egg sacks. I appreciate you including that as I just found two in my tiny peach tree.
I have been finding so many around this year!
@@Alisorganics That is wonderful! They know a good garden when they see one! 😊
Thank you ❤
You're welcome 😊
Hi Ali. Excellent video with lots of great information. Thank you for it. I presume that's a 25 gallon sprayer in your video based on you mentioning the 125T. I have roughly the same amount of trees, mostly apples with a few pears, plums and peaches in the mix. Do you recommend this size sprayer?
It does make the job so much quicker. When my trees were small I used a back pack sprayer and that made the job pretty quick. I could just pump as i went. But, I really do like my 25 gallon sprayer!
@@Alisorganics Thanks for the reply. I'm looking at various model that would work with my deere mower. All have positive and negative reviews which makes it even more difficult when the budget is tight.
What do you spray when the buds start to leaf out, i.e., silver tip, green tip, pink tip stages? Thank you so much!
I use Monterey Garden & Insect spray for apples & pears through the growing season. It has spinosad in it. I don't spray apricots, cherries, figs, plums, or our persimmons other than during the dormant season. They rarely get pests. The peach trees I will spray the spinosad about two weeks before they ripen.
Hi this was helpful... question: my dwarf apple tree is right next to a raised garden vegetable bed... will these treatments of oil and copper effect my organic veggies since the spray will likely get into the raised bed as well?
I have some apple trees near my garden and I don’t want to copper on my soil because it is a fungicide. I lay a floating row cover over the nearing beds to stop the majority of the spray.
Hi, you say to spay copper once in the season, when would that be for peach and plum trees please?
I like to spray my copper after the leaves have dropped in November or December time.
I just planted trees last year. I sprayed them thanksgiving, Christmas, Valentine’s Day. You said don’t spray them when flowers are on. Can I spray them again if fruit starts to grow? What is summer spraying tips? I’m new to this and from PA. If you, or anyone, can help me and give me tips 🙏
I plan on doing a summer fruit tree care video! So stay tuned! Anyway, you can spray, you will just need to switch to a different spray. I use neem or spinosad for my peaches, pears and apples. My cherries, figs, apricots and plums never seem to have a problem. Copper shouldn't be sprayed expect during the dormant season. I hope that helps for now! 😊
I'm looking to make a repellent with essential oils and a carrier oil to spray around doors, fruit flies and gnats are BAD out here. I want to use a carrier oil so that it leaves a residue that lasts for a few days or so. Will horticultural oil work to mix with an essential oil? Or maybe mineral oil?
Dear Ali, so sorry for the long intro to my concerns about my 3 pink cherry blossom trees. Two years ago, I had to cut & treat the branches of the bigger, older tree because it had Fire Blight. This Spring, the tree began to bud with upward-growing branches and flowers. Needless to say, I was delighted to think that my tree was going to be okay, or not. This morning, I noticed a black covering over the parts of the tree that were cut down. I don't know what that is and I'm afraid that my 18-year-old tree will have to be cut down, completely. I haven't gone outdoors to take a closer look at the blackened parts of the tree because it's raining at the moment. In fact, this year in TN the weather has been cold, rainy, and damp.
1. Is a tree ever free of Blight, even after taking the steps to cure it?
My other cherry blossom tree has a huge split and a bulge down the middle of the truck that seems to look worse this year. The tree is in full bloom and I don't see signs of Blight on the branches or flowers.
2. Could it be Blight?
My third cherry blossom tree is much smaller than the first 2. It looks wonderful!
3. Is it in danger of becoming infected with Blight?
I am very concerned that other trees in my yard will also get infected with this Fire Blight decease. Two years ago my husband dug out our apple tree. It had all the symptoms of Fire Blight but at the time I didn't know about Blight. But now, I'm sure it was Blight.
Please help and thank you, Ms. Ali and anyone else for your feedback. I look forward to your suggestions and advice.
Fire blight and blights of tree trees are tough! It tends to get worse when the weather is damp and/or warm. My understanding is fire blight and other fruit tree blights never go away once in a tree, but can be controlled by proper pruning and dormant spray maintenance. Keeping the diseased wood removed or burned ASAP. Prune for more air circulation. Prune diseased wood to healthy wood and clean pruners between EVERY cut so as not to infect healthy wood.
You can treat Brown Rot Blossom Blight and Fire Blight during the growing season with Serenade Bacteria subtilis and copper in the winter (dormant) months.
The cherry tree splitting can be a few different things. Freezing temperatures can cause trees to split when the warm sun hits the trunk in the morning. I’m not sure if that’s the case.. Did you have a cold winter?
Most everyone in our area has fire blight in their pears. I had it real bad for a couple years, years back. It’s not near as bad now and we get nice fruit. I carefully prune, opening up for more air flow, keep pruners clean between cuts and spray copper during the winter months. When it was at its worst, I sprayed Serenade three times during the growing season. May, June, July. During the warmest months I see the very tips start to turn and I trim those off.
These blights spread very easy!
I hope that helps you a little bit.
Just wondering where you are located, im in southern Ontario and just trying to figure out best time to spray?
@@Tony-pt5vl I’m in a zone 8, Southern Utah
I seen someone comment on another web site to not use the copper and horticulture together? ?
i don't know why but they said before or after either way around. basically not to mix them.
I’ve seen that as well. I know there is plenty of confusion on this issue. You do have to make sure your trees are dormant or the spray can burn the leaves. Temps need to be above 40° for the copper to work and not above 80-85° or that can burn as well. You also want to make sure to use Monterey horticulture oil and not the old style “yellow” dormant oil which, in my opinion isn’t as good or as safe to mix. The horticulture oil should be white in color and not have a bad ammonia smell or dark color. I hope that helps. Your question actually was helpful to me. This is something I probably should address in a future video. Thank you so much! 😊
@@Alisorganics Thank you very much for your help. Im new to fruit trees.
@@Alisorganics This is very helpful, Im learning from your channel. Thanks for replying.
I just stumbled upon this vid. I have 2 cherry trees and 3 apples. Is it ok to spray them now? I did not do that last fall and winter. I am in Maryland location right on DC border.
Thank you for your time!
You can spray if the buds haven’t opened and no bees present.
@@Alisorganics That is exactly what I did today! Thank you so very much for great tutorial video and your time!
Hi Ali, I used copper fungicide and neem oil in December and March. I have no peach flowers and no cherry flowers, and very few of apply flowers. I think this should connect to the copper I used. I am curious no people say that using copper may not even get any fruit.
I used this combo for years with success… and get fruit.
There are so many variables that can cause no flower/fruit. An interesting fact, I have an apricot tree in my front yard that I did not spray this this year, but had an amazing bloom, but no fruit. We had a wet cold spring and there was absolutely no bee activity. I hope that helps.
My peaches have clear jelly spots on them. What should I do? Do you have a video for this specific problem?
so what do you do in spring and the rest of the year when you have fruit starting?
I use spinosad. Monterey has a product called Garden and Insect Spray that contains it. It’s a bacteria. I spray my apples and pears every 2-3 weeks. We have lots of pests that get those. I don’t do anything to my persimmons, cherries or apricots. Nothing seems to bother those. Peaches, I’ll spray about a 4-5 weeks before ripe and again about a week before harvest. That’s the routine that works for me. Neem can also be used in f your summer aren’t blazing like ours.
What is your mix rate for the horticultural oil? It says 2.5 -5 tablespoons per gallon
I use the 5 tablespoons per gallon of water for my fruit trees when dormant. We have so many aphids and other pests that I want to make sure I get them.
I'm getting ready to start growing fruit n was wondering if you use anything when the fruit is growing if you had any problems or do you not use anything in season when the fruit is growing???
Peaches, pears and apples are my biggest problems. I’ll spray spinosad on apples and pears once the petals drop and monthly till ripe. (They are a bit of a pain here) Peaches I’ll spray once I just start to see color with spinosad or fruit tree plus. Plums, cherries and apricots generally don’t need any spraying if I spray the dormant oil. I hope that helps. 😌
What is your spray you use before buds swell?
love your store! Any promo codes running or discounts for vets?
We do with a Vet Card! We always offer 10% off for vets.
I have just one apple tree, about 5 years old. What size sprayer should I use?
1/2 gallon would probably do it.
Do you recommend any pruning before the final spray?
Yes. And by pruning you won’t use as much spray! 😊
We only have issues with apple scabs and pear rust, can either spray help?
Yes, copper can really suppress both of those problem. With peat rust spray just when the leaves just barely begin to emerge.
Does it need to be above 40° at night also or just during the day? We are above 40 during the day but still dropping at night.
Just during the day. That allows the spray to penetrate/soak in.
Do you spray all your fruit trees with the same spray? Apples peaches pears?
Yes. Both copper and horticultural oil can be sprayed on apples, pears and peaches while dormant.
Hi Ali, I have a peach tree with peaches on it, but the leaves are more yellow and red, plus there is some sap appearing here and there. This is the first yr. to get the peaches. I have a 2nd peach tree that is nice and green but no fruit. What can I do with the 1st tree?
Sap usually means boring bugs. Need to spray.
What about dormin oils that says all season? Can Dormin oil be used in summer?
In India we are use neem oil
Can Neem oil control pear rust or apple scab?
I used neem during the growing season for pear rust in an orchard I was tending and it didn't seem to control it. After that I used the copper during the dormant season and it was a big help. Two years and it was no longer a problem. So, for personal use.... It didn't work on the pear rust. I haven't used it for apple scab personally, but the label does not suggest it would work.
@@Alisorganics thank you, Ali! I’m glad you tried it. I will try copper this month on my pear.
Also, what would you recommend for tiny mites on raspberries? Little black bugs that jump a bit, more pronounced later in the raspberry season when they get crowded.
People use copper sulphate with lime
I had read that you should not spray dormant oil within 2 weeks of copper since it can be toxic, have you not had a problem using them together>
I haven't had any issues. Bonide & Monterey do say you can mix them. Now, that being said, "dormant oil" and "horticulture oil" is a bit different and I don't use dormant oil. It's a thicker, much heavier. The hort oil mixes well with copper.
Thank you. What climate are you located in for your spraying schedule?
@@Alisorganics
@@evelyndame9553 zone 8 high desert. Our last average frost free date is April 15th.
Winter spray for apple products name of picture please send
Does the horticulture oil ever expire?
Yes, it does. It all depends on where it's stored on how long it keeps. Generally in room temperature 75 degrees F it'll be good for about 3 years.
which zone do you live?
Zone 8
So all of these sprays are organic?
Yes, there are all listed for organic garden use.
@@Alisorganics thank you! We just put in our first 8 fruit & citrus trees and we are organic. Love you channel.
What zone are you?
zone 8a
Very helpful! Thank you!