love it ..enjoy & u show it all .at 70 i had 3 different wells & pump problems over the years at 3 different places. Now retired living in wet, rainie western WA I have no problems Have no well..I am happy collecting rain water...LOL
I'm glad to see people still using copper, rather than that cheap plastic PVC, and shark bite crap. You did a very professional job. Good for another 45 years.Thanks for posting.
Great job completing the task. In addition to your obvious skills and creativity, your mastery of subtle humor proves the notion that if you can make people laugh, they will WANT to listen to you. Carry on.
Thank you! I find it more and more that few and far between actually appreciate my petty attempts at being funny. That makes me and my audience an odd ball. Or odd balls? Lol
@@TinkeringNerd Don't sell yourself short! Your wit and delivery are very, very good and and you held my close attention for the entirety of your video (my biggest fear was missing your next quip). Your obvious life skills and aptitude for problem solving make you a rare breed these days. Ameeica needs more people like you. Carry on.
Just loved through a similar experience. Had to convert a 60 yr old well that had jet pump system over to a submersible system. Every turn was a new challenge. Can’t wait to finish the project, it has been 3 weeks work, but enjoying every minute of it.
This is about the absolute best video I have seen regarding repairing a private well. The author is humble, and admits to his mistakes. This shows he's human, and can falter like anyone else. The most important and crucial part is when he shows the run from the well casing into the house. So many "professional plumber" channels never show this, and I do not know why. Showing the details of how the pump electricity and pump piping enter the home's foundation, and how to seal that up, is monumental. Ditto with the secondary pressure switch. Why do these other "professional plumber" fail to show this? Anyway, it was a pleasure to watch this. Well done.
No body shows a secondary pressure switch because it's not a thing unless someone dumb enough to separate the switch from the pump (by placing filtration between them) is smart enough to over complicate it
Scottie Marquis thanks for watching! I “separated” the work pressure switch from the pump to ensure the pressure at the output. It did over complicate things, agreed. I wish there was a switch with two contacts to use one for some sort of alarm. Cheers
@@scottiemarquis2809 Having a secondary pressure switch is not a bad idea. It's role is to provide over-pressure protection; one sets it's tripping pressure higher than the primary pressure switch's cut-off limit. This way the primary pressure switch can cycle the pump in a normal mannei.
Thank you for posting this. Just bought a house with a well, and suspect it might need a new pump. Was wondering what was involved with the pump replacement, and thought my pump was "stuck" when I pulled on it's rope. Now I know it's heavy and down there a ways but totally doable. Much appreciated!
I'm right in the middle of replacing my 230 foot deep well pump...the pump looks like it's the original from 1978...seized up due to a water leak under the house, pump was running 24/7, sucked the well dry and the motor overheated...very dry rocky ground, 3,000 foot elevation. I'm inside a well-house, and the water supply from the pump is that 1-1/4" black Vinyl...3 wire system, the old starter looks like it was replaced in 1999...it's fried, so is the pressure switch. All due to lack of maintenance. and not the best installation anyway. I've got all the stuff new, just have to drop it back in.' The house is 300 miles away on very rural property, so I've got to plan everything very well...nearest town is 20 miles away...and it's a very small town... That rope...usually a safety to prevent losing the pump down the well...I have that, but am using a larger rope and dropping the pump with it...the new pump is 100% stainless steel, even has a place to tie a safety rope..
I have two wells on my property . One stopped working so well company came out. They started pulling out the metal pipe and the pump broke off and stayed in the ground. I decided to just use the other well. Then it stopped working so I paid 3000 dollars to have that pump replaced and I watched the worker do it. That pump was cracked where the pipe goes into it so it was losing pressure. If I can recover from my illness I will use your method to replace the other pump myself. Thank you very much !
AHHH....the joy of owning a home....and the sometimes seemingly bottomless money pit 💰 you have inherited along with with the previous owners piece-part-patch-jobs that start falling apart only after you get settled in and comfortable....Yes I remember very well...the home inspector said the septic system despite its age...was just fine...what he didn't tell me...the very first load of laundry...would blow the system out....12K later I have brand-new septic system and new sod in the front yard...AHHH...the joy of it all 🚽 💰 😛 ...then came the roof leak which lead to replacing the electrical panel...and not to leave out the kitchen plumbing flood and new flooring... 👍 You my friend are a genius❕ I also learned my lesson with copper fittings 😁 did I mention the kitchen flood❔
I was lucky enough with my first home, it was built three years old when I got it and I didn’t even paint some walls before selling it few years down the road. This house, however, has been a gentle reality check for me, but nothing unmanageable, so far, lol. I hope yours stopped giving you trouble and you enjoy the fruits of your labor! Thanks for watching! Cheers.
I'm about to tackle this project at my house this spring. No idea how deep the well is it what type of pump is below. It is 40 years old and is sure to be a chore. Thanks for all of the helpful tips! You did a great job.
Yeah, I just pulled up my 1 Hp 3-wire single phase 240 volt pump...230 feet down there...I had no info at all about the well...no neighbors anywhere around...but if you do have neighbors, maybe ask them about the well depth...or if there's a local drilling service, maybe they can give you a clue about how deep the well might be.
Great video! We are preparing to pull a pump from 190' (210' deep well). We have a pitless fitting to deal with and pull the remainder. Thank you for the instructions!
You have a truly great idea for the pump cut-out switch for when the filters get clogged. Maybe an emergency rope in case the pipe or wire break and the pump drops
A " What else could go wrong ? " project .......Nightmare ! If that would have been me ,,,,,,hide the kids ! I'd been cussing like a sailor that had mashed a toe !! That's coming from a man that thinks he is mostly calm and collected but ..........Damn it man ! My hats off to a real man's video, one that shows it can't all be Gravy. May good luck be with you in your future projects.
This was an EXCELLENT video! Thank you. I have an unused well pipe in my yard. This house currently uses a fillable 1500 gallon tank for water. Scheduled water deliveries once it twice a month. I was told the wells in the area are bad with high sulfur content. Some people use the wells many,thousands, use delivered water. I am curious if there is water that I can use for my garden and ducks and geese in the old ground well. I was born and raised in the city so wells and septic systems are unfamiliar to me. I just unburied the old, unused well pipe today. Tomorrow I will drop a string with a weight to see if water is even down there. Thank you so much for this video. I now have a much better understanding of a well and pipe and system. Oh, and skunks 🦨 😉. You video is also entertaining and humorous! Just subbed and looking forward to a binge watching to see what else you have been up too.
Very nice job. Your insights and approach to problem resolution is very mature. I have come to expect such from peoples of Eastern Europe decent (I assume). Thank you
You tell the story well but what a great story... Thank You For Sharing... if more people had your work ethics & appreciation for DIY we would have a great world with little need or use for government spying & thievery - they can not help or hurt a man who is competent & independent ~
This was such an educational video. I have a well that was installed in 1954 and then sometime in the 80's I think a liner was added to it. It is below the surface. The water is orange after the house sitting unoccupied for over a year. We have run hundreds of gallons to see if it will clear up. It is slight yellow now. What do you think ??? The people I have talked to have told me there is nothing we can do and will have to install a new well.
Very funny humor to deal with the horror, lol. Just a friendly heads up. Never seal off copper pipe with cement. Cement is acidic and will eventually corrode right through metal piping especially soft copper pipe. Use Flex Seal, expanding foam, or silicone sealant to fill and seal the gaps and cracks around your copper pipes.
Great video. Hydraulic cement should be used for sealing the cement wall penetrations. It expands as it sets up and locks into the wall. That was probably what you used.
man I thought I was the only one that had that kinda luck, when you said you had to redo the pluming 5 or 6 times I felt that, lol great video I had to subscribe after all that work
Nice video for DIY. As a professional plumber I would only warn against concrete directly on water or sewer piping. You need a barrier around the copper and poly pipes before concreting them in. Expansion will cause that copper to become damaged over time and form a leak.
If i did all this work(and i did) I would never go back with old or even new galvanized pipe. Unless it is industrial grade it will rust badly in 5 years. The threads will pull apart from corrosion. It is a lot easier to deal with black roll tubing and stainless barb fittings. It lasts forever and if you have to pull it out it is easy. Make sure the wires are taped to the tubing completely the first few feet then all the way up every 3 feet or so so they cannot rub against the well when the pump starts. Thanks for your video and expertly filmed scenes.
You have a lot of gumption doing this project yourself. You saved thousands of dollars by not hiring it out, and most importantly you have acquired more tools and knowledge that will be useful in future projects. I always try to convince people to do as much of their own building and repairs as they can. You will reduce being at the mercy of corporations and repairmen and will keep more of your money in the bank. As for the project itself, the two board pipe clamp was very risky. Always have a backup in place for something that critical.
I have a brand new well to place a well pump in. Although my scenario and your scenario are not identical. I still found your video helpful. I thank you. I have a 260 feet deep well. I'm going to set my well pump at 240 feet. The well tested at stronger than 20 gpm. I am installing a Goulds 13GPM, 2HP, 230V, 3 Wire, 4" Stainless Steel Submersible Well Pump. My internet research told me to use 1-1/4" galvanized pipe. I have 21 ft sections. After buying my pipe, I think I made a mistake. Everyone is using poly down pipe. But all my research said to use galvanized. Especially RC WORST. I hope im not making a mistake. I have a skid steer. I bought a boom crane arm and some how, i hope to have luck in installing 240 feet of piping and a stainless steel pitless adapter. I bought a KWIK KLAMP pope clamp to hold each pipe section for install. And my well pump will be supported by 250 feet of 3/8" galvanized wire cable. I bought a wel x trol pressure tank. If anyone read this and has an opinion, let me know. Thank you for helping.
Thank you for watching. Galvanized pipe should be okay for 20+ years. Modern pump life expectancy is about the same. The cable though, may just rust out and be no help when needed most. Be sure your rigging equipment is capable of lifting/holding all that weight. Best of luck! Cheers
@TinkeringNerd thank you for your reply. My entire length of my well drilling, was drilled into super hard fractured black basalt rock. My water should be clean and no clay or other sediment issues for pump corrosion or galvanized pipe corrosion. However I do not know the alkaline make up of my water yet to say if the alkaline will eat the zinc or if it'll last a long long time. But either way, I agree with your 20+ years comment. Thank you. Come do my project for me 😉
You got lucky. The A/C cut-off pressure switch you used was at 70 PSI. AND the normal pressure relief valve on a pressure tank is 70 PSI. The only way to test which one will go first is to hold the pressure switch contactor ON and let the pump run until one of them goes off. Also, another way to fill the void on both sides of the wall is with low rise foam. This will fill the entire cavity and will act as a moisture barrier. Cut it off smooth with a long carpet or filet knife. Then you can use the stucco for texturing and painting with a latex paint will seal the cement. Stucco is not required on either side of the wall if painted, just aesthetics.
Thank you. I may have lowered the upper pressure limit to have the switch open before the relief valve, although, can’t tell for sure if I did. The system works, that’s what matters to me. Depending on size of the opening in the wall, using foam may not be a great idea, especially 5 ft under ground. Cheers.
Done, replacing 3 capacitors $100 from grainger, works now without pulling, 10hp pump with 4" pipe connection outside. Still don't know how it looks below . Maybe regular guy can't pull it out anyway.
Thankfully, my pump is a shallow well jet pump, with black poly pipe dropping down a hand dug hole. But all of my galvanized fittings, gate valves, foot valve, and check valve all had to be replaced! $3-400 worth of stuff!
This video is excellent. I admire the higher level of quality in your work. What size drill did you use to automate the winch? Did you reverse spool the cable on the winch to have it drop on the opposite side? Did you use the drill to lower the cable or use the crank to lower the cable? Nice to see you triumph despite the surprise complications throughout the project.
Thank you for nice words! The drill I used is regular 18V cordless drill. The winch doesn’t have any latch dogs and works the same in either direction. I used drill to lower the pump, as well. Cheers :)
always rap copper pipes with electric tape before putting them through wall or burying them to prevent corrosion and always purge the well before running the water into the house or pressure tank
Thank you for your input! I did wrap it.. with sealant and plastic bag. Hopefully, it will last long enough for me not to find out if my efforts were sufficient enough, lol. As far as purging the well, I confess, I may have put “dirty” water into the pressure tank. However, during going back and forth between fixing the piping issues and draining the system, I believe that the tank got flushed out pretty good. Cheers.
@@TinkeringNerd Didnt know they made a in ground sealant coating for copper pipes.Must be so new , building inspectors never heard of it either. VERY few sealants made for below ground use, other then waterproofing foundations.....Lets hope the zip lock baggy holds eh.
That well heads different then what ours is like , we usually have a cable that you pull to release the pitless , or they have one with a tiny tiny screw you have to get down in there or loose of the infamous slip in style which are my favorite & last and foremost the head where the pumps piping comes straight through the top and it seals with 6 screws and a compression seal , if you back the screws all the way out it can fall down the well. I've seen 100s and pulled 100s of well pumps over the course of 7 years in plumbing.
Спасибо за просмотр и за комент. Все у нас изобрели, только я не хотел тратить лишнего доллара на этот насос, итак где-то полторы тысячи не считая той воды, что утекла.
When you repair any copper pipes, you always use new stuff. The old is just perfect for recycling. Also, any pipe hangers you make use stainless or aluminum metal for corrosion resistance and a more professional look too. The pipe in the well bore should not be zinc as there is cadmium there also mixed in the plating.Other wise you will be drinking the metal which is not healthy to say the least. Either stainless or black plastic should be used for cleanliness. I am not a fan of digging the ditch, but when you have to you just do. I too will be repairing a well for a neighbor this year. Thanks for the heads up to on problems encountered.
I went the least troubling (burdensome) route with galvanized pipe. I do not intend to drink that water, only to irrigate the yard. Good luck on your repair. Cheers.
With grinder without a cover plate and grinding the way you do you might be saving for some kind of surgery in future. Google the pictures of angle grinder injuries.
I have a 3HP pump that's down about 300 feet. With 1 1/4" pipe. I like your system but worry that the weight of my pipe and pump may be too much for your clamping system. I'm trying to come up with something to use to pull mine. I do have a skid steer so maybe I can use that. Anyway GREAT JOB!!
@@joevip76 best of luck and be safe and careful. Remember anything that can go wrong, probably will. So, prepare a “plan B”. I recommend a pump which wouldn’t have planned obsolescence built into it. Good luck finding one :)
Adding a nylon pull rope to the pump will make future reparations much more efficient and safe. Using a continuous length, much lighter weight Polyurethane pipe eliminates all the piecing together if the old pipe should need replacing, saving much time and effort.
great video - thank you. I have never seen pressure switches in series to control pump over-run. can you explain how this works,, maybe next video? Thanks
Thank you for watching! Both switches connected in series, electrically. They are installed before and after the filter, each. Lower (working) pressure switch is after the filter. Safety shutoff (higher pressure) switch is before the filter. When filter clogs up and pressure builds up, that will be the only time this switch is activated. Pressure difference between the two switches is around 30psi. Currently, I have raw footage for four more videos and due to family circumstances and time constrains, they have been put off on a “back burner”. Making a video about these switches sounds like a good idea, simple enough. Soon as I get everything sorted out, I’ll try and make it. Cheers.
FliesLikeABrick I kind of thought about it, but, never acted on it. I figured that it really wouldn’t make a difference on system’s performance, so, I put it after filters to save me potential headache later down the road.. Cheers.
@@TinkeringNerd Cool thanks for replying. Another option would probably be putting the pressure switch before the filter even if the pressure tank is after. Worst case your water pressure in the house is lower than desired but the pump doesn't come on -- but that just means the filter might be too-loaded. That is basically what your current setup would do, but with a single pressure switch
FliesLikeABrick true if I was using water and feel the pressure dropping. But, because it’s only for irrigation, I need more or less stable pressure for water to get spread evenly, so, I wouldn’t have to babysit it. Something like that :)
Excellent. Question: I see you added the second pressure switch prior to the filters. I am wondering why that wouldn’t be your only switch? If it was then it protects the pump from over pressure and if you saw diminished water flow from the filters you would then know to change them. Great job with reactivating the old well and thanks for taking the time to share the process. (For others doing something similar, they could replace the galvanized pipe with modern PVC and drop the weight of the system for a 100’ well to about 50 lbs, which then could be fully assembled horizontally on the ground and then the flexible PVC would allow manually curving the piping and lowering all down the well without the complexity of the winch and pipe fittings. It also simplifies retrieval of the pump if needed in the future.)
Thank you for watching and for your comment. About the switch, I specifically wanted my after-filter switch to be the operative, because I use the pump to water my lawn. It is scheduled to run at times when I’m either sleeping or not at home. So, the system pressure would be relatively stable until the moment that it wouldn’t. Ideally, the before-filters switch should be activating an alarm of some sort (setting a red light ON, for example), in addition to turning the pump off. I will work on it, some day.. About pipes: I didn’t want to invest any more money into this project, than I already have. Simple as that. Thanks again. Best.
You should have the well tested to see if it is safe for drinking as just for irrigation, how much does the pump contribute to your electric utility bill? Are you saving much over the public utilities water bill? It’s also a good backup if it’s safe for drinking after a natural disaster and you can use a backup generator to power it to boot.
Using city water for irrigation added about $200 to my water bill. Using well added $20-30 to my electric bill. I’m happy with that. Thank you for watching.
Sort of unrelated. But if you haven't already would you consider going to the Harbor Freight site and writing a review of the winch you used and maybe add a link back to this video. Seemed to do an excellent job. I have the same winch but only assembled it so far, haven't used it.
Thank You for the information on replacing the pump ,as i'm just in the process of preparing to do the same , but why use Galvanized pipe ? would'nt a continuous poly pipe work better?
@@TinkeringNerd Thank you for replying , i'll have to look into the cost where i am as i suspect you may be right about that ,and cost is always a factor :)..... i love my old house , its a new hobby everyday ;)
Thank you for watching and for supporting my channel, much appreciated! If I had to buy either, the poly may be cheaper, but, since I already had most of the galvanized pipe that could be reused, it’s a no-brainer.
I would have wrapped the copper pipe with some heavy tape PRIOR to sealing hole with cement - should be OK for sometime, but the copper will oxidize and leak eventually
You are a very calm man my friend! I would've said some bad words a few times during the project. I'm wondering why you struggle with GI pipes? HDPE would make your life much easier.
Normally, I end up paying about 50-70 per month for water+sewer. Those years I used city water for irrigation, I paid about 600-700 extra per year. Now, it’s just my electrical bill going up by maybe 20-40 per month. Cheers
I have the same exact well. I'm having issues building pressure into the bladder it stays at about 40psi and pump won't go off. You think I'm looking at the same problem as you had? ( awesome video by the way)
Thank you! If your pump is sized adequate to your well depth, then lack of pressure can be caused by a leak. Try to open well cap while pump is running and see/hear if you have a leak at pitiless adapter gasket. Pay attention to how pump is starting after some time off. If you hear loud noises and banging, that means the check valve is not holding, or the vertical pipe has a leak. If none of these present, then it’s possible that the underground pipe run is leaking.
@@TinkeringNerd yes it was the plastic coupler on top of Myers pump the pump had a date on it and it was 1995. So I'm assuming that's when it was put in and never touched again. I'm glad it happened because at least now I know I have a brand new pump in it. Thanks for your help and god bless sir
You should consider putting your filters after the pressure switch so if the filters clog then it will shut the pump off. Otherwise, if your filters are before the pressure switch they will block flow if they clog and the pump will keep running. The water flow cools the pump so the pump may run with no flow as it tries to meet the pressure switch and burn up.
Like his gently sarcastic, humble, self deprecating sense of humor.
I also like how his video is very explanitory, with good detail.
Keep them coming.
Thank you very much!
love it ..enjoy & u show it all .at 70 i had 3 different wells & pump problems over the years at 3 different places. Now retired living in wet, rainie western WA I have no problems Have no well..I am happy collecting rain water...LOL
Thank you!
I'm glad to see people still using copper, rather than that cheap plastic PVC, and shark bite crap. You did a very professional job. Good for another 45 years.Thanks for posting.
Thank you! That’s always the hope that it would last.
Cheers
Pex will outlast any metal but you boomers keep thinking like it's 1940. I wonder if horse owners said the same thing about cars?
And your command of the English is better than a lot of people who grew up here in the United States!! Blessings to You and Your Family!!
Thank you very much
I became mesmerized watching all of the various steps you encountered. You are the man!
Great job completing the task. In addition to your obvious skills and creativity, your mastery of subtle humor proves the notion that if you can make people laugh, they will WANT to listen to you. Carry on.
Thank you! I find it more and more that few and far between actually appreciate my petty attempts at being funny. That makes me and my audience an odd ball. Or odd balls? Lol
@@TinkeringNerd Don't sell yourself short! Your wit and delivery are very, very good and and you held my close attention for the entirety of your video (my biggest fear was missing your next quip). Your obvious life skills and aptitude for problem solving make you a rare breed these days. Ameeica needs more people like you. Carry on.
Bringing my old submersible well back to life. Great job and great video! I wish you were my neighbor! Thanks for this very well done presentation!
Thank you! A very WELL done presentation.. lol
Just saw this video impressed by your diligence and quality work most people are too lazy to put that type of effort in 👍🏼
Thank you for watching
Just loved through a similar experience. Had to convert a 60 yr old well that had jet pump system over to a submersible system. Every turn was a new challenge. Can’t wait to finish the project, it has been 3 weeks work, but enjoying every minute of it.
Hope it turns out well. Pun intended :)
This is about the absolute best video I have seen regarding repairing a private well. The author is humble, and admits to his mistakes. This shows he's human, and can falter like anyone else. The most important and crucial part is when he shows the run from the well casing into the house. So many "professional plumber" channels never show this, and I do not know why. Showing the details of how the pump electricity and pump piping enter the home's foundation, and how to seal that up, is monumental. Ditto with the secondary pressure switch. Why do these other "professional plumber" fail to show this?
Anyway, it was a pleasure to watch this. Well done.
Thank you so much!!! Comments like this are the inspiration to keep going!
Cheers.
No body shows a secondary pressure switch because it's not a thing unless someone dumb enough to separate the switch from the pump (by placing filtration between them) is smart enough to over complicate it
Scottie Marquis thanks for watching! I “separated” the work pressure switch from the pump to ensure the pressure at the output. It did over complicate things, agreed. I wish there was a switch with two contacts to use one for some sort of alarm.
Cheers
@@scottiemarquis2809 Having a secondary pressure switch is not a bad idea. It's role is to provide over-pressure protection; one sets it's tripping pressure higher than the primary pressure switch's cut-off limit. This way the primary pressure switch can cycle the pump in a normal mannei.
Thank you for posting this. Just bought a house with a well, and suspect it might need a new pump. Was wondering what was involved with the pump replacement, and thought my pump was "stuck" when I pulled on it's rope. Now I know it's heavy and down there a ways but totally doable. Much appreciated!
Thanks! Wish you best of luck and to be very careful.
Cheers.
I'm right in the middle of replacing my 230 foot deep well pump...the pump looks like it's the original from 1978...seized up due to a water leak under the house, pump was running 24/7, sucked the well dry and the motor overheated...very dry rocky ground, 3,000 foot elevation.
I'm inside a well-house, and the water supply from the pump is that 1-1/4" black Vinyl...3 wire system, the old starter looks like it was replaced in 1999...it's fried, so is the pressure switch. All due to lack of maintenance. and not the best installation anyway.
I've got all the stuff new, just have to drop it back in.' The house is 300 miles away on very rural property, so I've got to plan everything very well...nearest town is 20 miles away...and it's a very small town...
That rope...usually a safety to prevent losing the pump down the well...I have that, but am using a larger rope and dropping the pump with it...the new pump is 100% stainless steel, even has a place to tie a safety rope..
Nice! Hope it works out great for you!
Very comprehensive work! Great attention to detail. Thank you for making this video.
I haven't enjoyed a video as much as yours in a long time.
JOB WELL DONE!!
THANK YOU FOR SHARING!!!!
Thank you very much!
Very informative and oddly quite soothing and relaxing, especially considering you hit some very frustrating obstacles. Thanks!
Thank you
You remind of my brother. Determined to fix it yourself, no matter what it takes. Great job!
Thank you so much. This time, I just had to finish it! Cheers
Thanks for making this video. I like your pump pulling setup. I will be doing this soon and you gave me a great idea. Thanks!
Thank you for watching, I really appreciate it!
I have two wells on my property . One stopped working so well company came out. They started pulling out the metal pipe and the pump broke off and stayed in the ground. I decided to just use the other well. Then it stopped working so I paid 3000 dollars to have that pump replaced and I watched the worker do it. That pump was cracked where the pipe goes into it so it was losing pressure. If I can recover from my illness I will use your method to replace the other pump myself. Thank you very much !
Thank you for your kind words! Hope you get better!
AHHH....the joy of owning a home....and the sometimes seemingly bottomless money pit 💰 you have inherited along with with the previous owners piece-part-patch-jobs that start falling apart only after you get settled in and comfortable....Yes I remember very well...the home inspector said the septic system despite its age...was just fine...what he didn't tell me...the very first load of laundry...would blow the system out....12K later I have brand-new septic system and new sod in the front yard...AHHH...the joy of it all 🚽 💰 😛 ...then came the roof leak which lead to replacing the electrical panel...and not to leave out the kitchen plumbing flood and new flooring...
👍 You my friend are a genius❕ I also learned my lesson with copper fittings 😁 did I mention the kitchen flood❔
I was lucky enough with my first home, it was built three years old when I got it and I didn’t even paint some walls before selling it few years down the road. This house, however, has been a gentle reality check for me, but nothing unmanageable, so far, lol.
I hope yours stopped giving you trouble and you enjoy the fruits of your labor!
Thanks for watching!
Cheers.
I'm about to tackle this project at my house this spring. No idea how deep the well is it what type of pump is below. It is 40 years old and is sure to be a chore. Thanks for all of the helpful tips! You did a great job.
Thank you very much! Hope your project goes well, too (pun intended)
Cheers.
Yeah, I just pulled up my 1 Hp 3-wire single phase 240 volt pump...230 feet down there...I had no info at all about the well...no neighbors anywhere around...but if you do have neighbors, maybe ask them about the well depth...or if there's a local drilling service, maybe they can give you a clue about how deep the well might be.
Dougan, any difficulties getting the 230 feet of pipe to come up? Like T.N. said to me, what CAN go wrong probably will--and mine's 400 feet down.
Great video! We are preparing to pull a pump from 190' (210' deep well). We have a pitless fitting to deal with and pull the remainder. Thank you for the instructions!
Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful.
You have a truly great idea for the pump cut-out switch for when the filters get clogged. Maybe an emergency rope in case the pipe or wire break and the pump drops
Thank you very much!
Great job bringing the old well back to life !!
Impressive documenting on such a fantastic task. I loved this video.
Thank you and greetings from Portugal.
Thank you so much!
A " What else could go wrong ? " project .......Nightmare ! If that would have been me ,,,,,,hide the kids ! I'd been cussing like a sailor that had mashed a toe !! That's coming from a man that thinks he is mostly calm and collected but ..........Damn it man ! My hats off to a real man's video, one that shows it can't all be Gravy. May good luck be with you in your future projects.
Thank you! It wasn’t all that bad, I just did one thing at a time.. cheers.
This was an EXCELLENT video! Thank you. I have an unused well pipe in my yard. This house currently uses a fillable 1500 gallon tank for water. Scheduled water deliveries once it twice a month. I was told the wells in the area are bad with high sulfur content. Some people use the wells many,thousands, use delivered water. I am curious if there is water that I can use for my garden and ducks and geese in the old ground well. I was born and raised in the city so wells and septic systems are unfamiliar to me. I just unburied the old, unused well pipe today. Tomorrow I will drop a string with a weight to see if water is even down there. Thank you so much for this video. I now have a much better understanding of a well and pipe and system. Oh, and skunks 🦨 😉. You video is also entertaining and humorous! Just subbed and looking forward to a binge watching to see what else you have been up too.
Thank you so very much! I’m glad my documentary is of use to people.
Cheers
Plants love high Sulphur water. Animals & humans do not.
Very nice job. Your insights and approach to problem resolution is very mature. I have come to expect such from peoples of Eastern Europe decent (I assume). Thank you
Such effort to make your video is much appreciated! I just wish I had your skills to start with.
Thank you!
This is very fun to watch and I wish I could be as experienced as you are in terms of this type of works Good day to you Sir 👍👍👍
Experience is a product of effort and time.
You could also try some heavy duty poly pipe to hang your pump from, makes pulling it a little easier.
You tell the story well but what a great story... Thank You For Sharing... if more people had your work ethics & appreciation for DIY we would have a great world with little need or use for government spying & thievery - they can not help or hurt a man who is competent & independent ~
Thank you for your kind words. Wish you the best, as well. Cheers.
This was such an educational video. I have a well that was installed in 1954 and then sometime in the 80's I think a liner was added to it. It is below the surface. The water is orange after the house sitting unoccupied for over a year. We have run hundreds of gallons to see if it will clear up. It is slight yellow now. What do you think ??? The people I have talked to have told me there is nothing we can do and will have to install a new well.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I’m by no means a well specialist. It does sound like you might need a new well bored.
Very funny humor to deal with the horror, lol. Just a friendly heads up. Never seal off copper pipe with cement. Cement is acidic and will eventually corrode right through metal piping especially soft copper pipe. Use Flex Seal, expanding foam, or silicone sealant to fill and seal the gaps and cracks around your copper pipes.
Oh my goodness! You had one hell of project! Thank you for this informative video
Duve Phannadeth one WELL of a project! Lol
You are the man. Good skill and pro. Thank you for sharing
Thank you for your support
Great video. Hydraulic cement should be used for sealing the cement wall penetrations. It expands as it sets up and locks into the wall. That was probably what you used.
Thank you for sound advise. I used what I had at the time. It was a regular cement, I believe. That’s where the sealant comes in handy..
Cheers.
Nice work, you know how the saying goes if it aint one thing its ten others!
Right! Lol
Great video. I have walked into that mess more than once.
I applaud the hard working ethics. I shall salute.
Thank you!
Nice work bro. I'm dealing with a similar situation. It gives one a lot of respect for the guys that came up with all of this technology, eh?
Thanks you. I tried hard on this one and it is still working. Wish you all the best with your project.
amazing display of patience and energy.
man I thought I was the only one that had that kinda luck, when you said you had to redo the pluming 5 or 6 times I felt that, lol great video I had to subscribe after all that work
Thank you, much appreciated. Yeah, that plumbing project got me sweating, pun intended. Lol.
@@TinkeringNerd hahaha you're to funny man ,Im going to go out and mess with the old well I found on my property !!!
Nice video for DIY. As a professional plumber I would only warn against concrete directly on water or sewer piping. You need a barrier around the copper and poly pipes before concreting them in. Expansion will cause that copper to become damaged over time and form a leak.
Thank you! I will consider this, next time.
If i did all this work(and i did) I would never go back with old or even new galvanized pipe. Unless it is industrial grade it will rust badly in 5 years. The threads will pull apart from corrosion. It is a lot easier to deal with black roll tubing and stainless barb fittings. It lasts forever and if you have to pull it out it is easy. Make sure the wires are taped to the tubing completely the first few feet then all the way up every 3 feet or so so they cannot rub against the well when the pump starts. Thanks for your video and expertly filmed scenes.
Thanks for watching. My objective was to not spend any extra money on this pump. Hence, the galvanized pipe.
You did a great job, you can reuse the fittings but need to clean them really good/well.
You can use CLR to clean them.
Be sure to inspect the pressure switch you installed prior to the filters. They are well known to get clogged up and stop working.
the ladder as a winch was brilliant.
Daniel Adam thank you very much!
You have a lot of gumption doing this project yourself. You saved thousands of dollars by not hiring it out, and most importantly you have acquired more tools and knowledge that will be useful in future projects. I always try to convince people to do as much of their own building and repairs as they can. You will reduce being at the mercy of corporations and repairmen and will keep more of your money in the bank.
As for the project itself, the two board pipe clamp was very risky. Always have a backup in place for something that critical.
William Cassidy thank you!
I guess my backup plan was having two wood board clamps on the pipe at every changeover.
I have a brand new well to place a well pump in. Although my scenario and your scenario are not identical. I still found your video helpful. I thank you. I have a 260 feet deep well. I'm going to set my well pump at 240 feet. The well tested at stronger than 20 gpm. I am installing a Goulds 13GPM, 2HP, 230V, 3 Wire, 4" Stainless Steel Submersible Well Pump. My internet research told me to use 1-1/4" galvanized pipe. I have 21 ft sections. After buying my pipe, I think I made a mistake. Everyone is using poly down pipe. But all my research said to use galvanized. Especially RC WORST. I hope im not making a mistake. I have a skid steer. I bought a boom crane arm and some how, i hope to have luck in installing 240 feet of piping and a stainless steel pitless adapter. I bought a KWIK KLAMP pope clamp to hold each pipe section for install. And my well pump will be supported by 250 feet of 3/8" galvanized wire cable. I bought a wel x trol pressure tank. If anyone read this and has an opinion, let me know. Thank you for helping.
Thank you for watching. Galvanized pipe should be okay for 20+ years. Modern pump life expectancy is about the same. The cable though, may just rust out and be no help when needed most. Be sure your rigging equipment is capable of lifting/holding all that weight. Best of luck! Cheers
@TinkeringNerd thank you for your reply. My entire length of my well drilling, was drilled into super hard fractured black basalt rock. My water should be clean and no clay or other sediment issues for pump corrosion or galvanized pipe corrosion. However I do not know the alkaline make up of my water yet to say if the alkaline will eat the zinc or if it'll last a long long time. But either way, I agree with your 20+ years comment. Thank you. Come do my project for me 😉
@@johnnywalker5635 sounds like you have all figured out :)
You got lucky. The A/C cut-off pressure switch you used was at 70 PSI. AND the normal pressure relief valve on a pressure tank is 70 PSI. The only way to test which one will go first is to hold the pressure switch contactor ON and let the pump run until one of them goes off. Also, another way to fill the void on both sides of the wall is with low rise foam. This will fill the entire cavity and will act as a moisture barrier. Cut it off smooth with a long carpet or filet knife. Then you can use the stucco for texturing and painting with a latex paint will seal the cement. Stucco is not required on either side of the wall if painted, just aesthetics.
Thank you. I may have lowered the upper pressure limit to have the switch open before the relief valve, although, can’t tell for sure if I did. The system works, that’s what matters to me.
Depending on size of the opening in the wall, using foam may not be a great idea, especially 5 ft under ground.
Cheers.
Wow. Superb documentary. Excellent contribution.
DC Tappin much appreciated!
Very nice video
I'm doing mine soon, don't know what to expect either. It's 40 years old
Thanks for watching! Very best of luck with your well!
Done, replacing 3 capacitors $100 from grainger, works now without pulling, 10hp pump with 4" pipe connection outside. Still don't know how it looks below . Maybe regular guy can't pull it out anyway.
Wow! 10 hp?! Your pump is either sitting very deep, or is sized to supply the entire neighborhood :)
Glad the simple fix did it for you!
Cheers
30 acres, flooding
Ahh the joys of owning a home. :-)
😂
You ain’t kidding!
Much better then throwing your money away on rent. Or living in mom's house.
You take great pride in your work!
Thank you
Thankfully, my pump is a shallow well jet pump, with black poly pipe dropping down a hand dug hole. But all of my galvanized fittings, gate valves, foot valve, and check valve all had to be replaced! $3-400 worth of stuff!
I imagine I’ll have to repeat this repair maybe in 10-15 years. Or better yet, somebody else will, new homeowner! Lol
Thanks for the information. I have a well pitless adapter just like yours. I needed to know how to release it and reinstall. Great video, Thanks.
Craig Smith thanks for watching and subbing!
Cheers.
Thanks for all the pointers
We had the same problem with the skunk ,except under our house and then in our home. 😂😂
Dealing with a skunk inside the house is a whole another level!
This video is excellent. I admire the higher level of quality in your work. What size drill did you use to automate the winch? Did you reverse spool the cable on the winch to have it drop on the opposite side? Did you use the drill to lower the cable or use the crank to lower the cable? Nice to see you triumph despite the surprise complications throughout the project.
Thank you for nice words! The drill I used is regular 18V cordless drill. The winch doesn’t have any latch dogs and works the same in either direction. I used drill to lower the pump, as well.
Cheers :)
always rap copper pipes with electric tape before putting them through wall or burying them to prevent corrosion and always purge the well before running the water into the house or pressure tank
Thank you for your input! I did wrap it.. with sealant and plastic bag. Hopefully, it will last long enough for me not to find out if my efforts were sufficient enough, lol.
As far as purging the well, I confess, I may have put “dirty” water into the pressure tank. However, during going back and forth between fixing the piping issues and draining the system, I believe that the tank got flushed out pretty good.
Cheers.
@@TinkeringNerd Didnt know they made a in ground sealant coating for copper pipes.Must be so new , building inspectors never heard of it either. VERY few sealants made for below ground use, other then waterproofing foundations.....Lets hope the zip lock baggy holds eh.
Well... I'd say well done repairing that well
😂 thank you
You are a beast. Master plumber here giving you mad props.
Darrin's coils&clouds thank you so much!!!
Deep well pumps are usually referred to as deep well JET PUMPS , that is just a submersible , I've never seen a well head like that though. Ever.
My pump is called deep well pump. You just never seen one like it. Lol.
Just kidding.
That well heads different then what ours is like , we usually have a cable that you pull to release the pitless , or they have one with a tiny tiny screw you have to get down in there or loose of the infamous slip in style which are my favorite & last and foremost the head where the pumps piping comes straight through the top and it seals with 6 screws and a compression seal , if you back the screws all the way out it can fall down the well. I've seen 100s and pulled 100s of well pumps over the course of 7 years in plumbing.
Very detail at work , good job
Первый раз вижу как вешают насос на стальные трубы. У вас ПНД не изобрели?
Спасибо за просмотр и за комент. Все у нас изобрели, только я не хотел тратить лишнего доллара на этот насос, итак где-то полторы тысячи не считая той воды, что утекла.
@@TinkeringNerd понял
When you repair any copper pipes, you always use new stuff. The old is just perfect for recycling. Also, any pipe hangers you make use stainless or aluminum metal for corrosion resistance and a more professional look too. The pipe in the well bore should not be zinc as there is cadmium there also mixed in the plating.Other wise you will be drinking the metal which is not healthy to say the least. Either stainless or black plastic should be used for cleanliness. I am not a fan of digging the ditch, but when you have to you just do. I too will be repairing a well for a neighbor this year. Thanks for the heads up to on problems encountered.
I went the least troubling (burdensome) route with galvanized pipe. I do not intend to drink that water, only to irrigate the yard.
Good luck on your repair.
Cheers.
@@TinkeringNerd Thank you for the kind words TN.
McGyver TV show..... Sir you are fearless
Filters in series.... never thought of that. "Excuse my english"? Lol. Your English is better than mine. Its my native language.
Thank you for kind words. I installed filters in parallel. Or at least I think I did 🤔
Thanks for posting this I have an old well that want to use for irrigation
Thank you for watching
GREAT work, GOOD JOB. The random wildlife had me LMAO.
Doug Bader thank you
With grinder without a cover plate and grinding the way you do you might be saving for some kind of surgery in future. Google the pictures of angle grinder injuries.
Just did mine today! Exact same water lines and exact same pump! Took four guys lifting foot by foot with vice grips, would not recommend lol
I bet it was cheap, too! Lol :) Thanks for watching.
I have a 3HP pump that's down about 300 feet. With 1 1/4" pipe. I like your system but worry that the weight of my pipe and pump may be too much for your clamping system. I'm trying to come up with something to use to pull mine. I do have a skid steer so maybe I can use that. Anyway GREAT JOB!!
Sounds like you got a challenging project coming up. Be safe, best of luck. Thank you for watching.
Can we make a hanging clamp that grips tighter on the pipe when the rope pulls from above?
Good job. If it makes you feel better, all the problems you ran into are typical of wells and plumbing,
Thanks. I kinda figured that :)
what a freaking job. one thing after another haha
Indeed
Brother great work you inspired me to replace my submersible pump.!!!!
If yours is plastic pipe, the clamping jig I used for mine, may not work for you. Just be careful.
Cheers.
@@TinkeringNerd Mine is schedule 40 pvc pipe @ 150' depth I'll improvise LOL wish me luck, what brand of well pump you'd recommend? IYDM please.
@@joevip76 best of luck and be safe and careful. Remember anything that can go wrong, probably will. So, prepare a “plan B”. I recommend a pump which wouldn’t have planned obsolescence built into it. Good luck finding one :)
Adding a nylon pull rope to the pump will make future reparations much more efficient and safe. Using a continuous length, much lighter weight Polyurethane pipe eliminates all the piecing together if the old pipe should need replacing, saving much time and effort.
Thanks for watching and for your input. Next project for sure will be done better
Very smart way to pull out the pump. Why not use plastic black tubing instead of metal pipe? And PVC joints instead of copper?
Thank you. I did it this way to save some money, that’s all :)
I have to do a 700 ft one tomorrow and I'm in need of korewinches and ladders
You got your work cut out for you. 700ft!! That’s a lot of pipe!
great video - thank you. I have never seen pressure switches in series to control pump over-run. can you explain how this works,, maybe next video? Thanks
Thank you for watching! Both switches connected in series, electrically. They are installed before and after the filter, each. Lower (working) pressure switch is after the filter. Safety shutoff (higher pressure) switch is before the filter. When filter clogs up and pressure builds up, that will be the only time this switch is activated. Pressure difference between the two switches is around 30psi.
Currently, I have raw footage for four more videos and due to family circumstances and time constrains, they have been put off on a “back burner”. Making a video about these switches sounds like a good idea, simple enough. Soon as I get everything sorted out, I’ll try and make it.
Cheers.
@@TinkeringNerd did you consider putting the filters after the pressure tank? I believe it is common for the tank to contain unfiltered water
FliesLikeABrick I kind of thought about it, but, never acted on it. I figured that it really wouldn’t make a difference on system’s performance, so, I put it after filters to save me potential headache later down the road..
Cheers.
@@TinkeringNerd Cool thanks for replying. Another option would probably be putting the pressure switch before the filter even if the pressure tank is after. Worst case your water pressure in the house is lower than desired but the pump doesn't come on -- but that just means the filter might be too-loaded. That is basically what your current setup would do, but with a single pressure switch
FliesLikeABrick true if I was using water and feel the pressure dropping. But, because it’s only for irrigation, I need more or less stable pressure for water to get spread evenly, so, I wouldn’t have to babysit it. Something like that :)
Dad's everywhere cheering at @2:03
Excellent. Question: I see you added the second pressure switch prior to the filters. I am wondering why that wouldn’t be your only switch? If it was then it protects the pump from over pressure and if you saw diminished water flow from the filters you would then know to change them. Great job with reactivating the old well and thanks for taking the time to share the process. (For others doing something similar, they could replace the galvanized pipe with modern PVC and drop the weight of the system for a 100’ well to about 50 lbs, which then could be fully assembled horizontally on the ground and then the flexible PVC would allow manually curving the piping and lowering all down the well without the complexity of the winch and pipe fittings. It also simplifies retrieval of the pump if needed in the future.)
Thank you for watching and for your comment. About the switch, I specifically wanted my after-filter switch to be the operative, because I use the pump to water my lawn. It is scheduled to run at times when I’m either sleeping or not at home. So, the system pressure would be relatively stable until the moment that it wouldn’t. Ideally, the before-filters switch should be activating an alarm of some sort (setting a red light ON, for example), in addition to turning the pump off. I will work on it, some day..
About pipes: I didn’t want to invest any more money into this project, than I already have. Simple as that.
Thanks again.
Best.
Tinkering Nerd I hear you in the investment. Great job and thanks for taking the time to reply!
Impressive Job. You're the Man!
Thank you!
You should have the well tested to see if it is safe for drinking as just for irrigation, how much does the pump contribute to your electric utility bill? Are you saving much over the public utilities water bill? It’s also a good backup if it’s safe for drinking after a natural disaster and you can use a backup generator to power it to boot.
Using city water for irrigation added about $200 to my water bill. Using well added $20-30 to my electric bill. I’m happy with that.
Thank you for watching.
Very good video. You do good work on
Great job. So much work. Thank you for the helpful video.
Thank you for watching!
Sort of unrelated. But if you haven't already would you consider going to the Harbor Freight site and writing a review of the winch you used and maybe add a link back to this video. Seemed to do an excellent job. I have the same winch but only assembled it so far, haven't used it.
D Mc that’s a splendid idea!
Thank You for the information on replacing the pump ,as i'm just in the process of preparing to do the same , but why use Galvanized pipe ? would'nt a continuous poly pipe work better?
It may have worked better if I spent more money buying it, which I did not want to do.
Cheers
@@TinkeringNerd Thank you for replying , i'll have to look into the cost where i am as i suspect you may be right about that ,and cost is always a factor :)..... i love my old house , its a new hobby everyday ;)
Thank you for watching and for supporting my channel, much appreciated! If I had to buy either, the poly may be cheaper, but, since I already had most of the galvanized pipe that could be reused, it’s a no-brainer.
bro.... my well pump just went out; i live in rural bumfudge and no one will come. this is a life saver!! maybe i can do this?
Having basic set of tools, knowledge, and determination, you have a good chance of doing it, too. Best of luck!
I would have wrapped the copper pipe with some heavy tape PRIOR to sealing hole with cement - should be OK for sometime, but the copper will oxidize and leak eventually
Great job! 👍
Thanks much!
Damn son you smarter than I am!
Maybe a little smarter than the average bear :)
Dude you are hilarious! Enjoyed the vid and learned something new!
Thanks for your efforts!
Thank you for watching
My respect to you!
Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much!
loved the commentary
You are a very calm man my friend! I would've said some bad words a few times during the project. I'm wondering why you struggle with GI pipes? HDPE would make your life much easier.
Thank you! I was saving as much as I could on this project...
@@TinkeringNerd understood. Nice work! I hope you bought your assistant with the red shovel some ice cream!
How much does your city water cost on average? And after you used well water for irrigation?
Normally, I end up paying about 50-70 per month for water+sewer. Those years I used city water for irrigation, I paid about 600-700 extra per year. Now, it’s just my electrical bill going up by maybe 20-40 per month.
Cheers
I have the same exact well. I'm having issues building pressure into the bladder it stays at about 40psi and pump won't go off. You think I'm looking at the same problem as you had? ( awesome video by the way)
Thank you! If your pump is sized adequate to your well depth, then lack of pressure can be caused by a leak. Try to open well cap while pump is running and see/hear if you have a leak at pitiless adapter gasket. Pay attention to how pump is starting after some time off. If you hear loud noises and banging, that means the check valve is not holding, or the vertical pipe has a leak. If none of these present, then it’s possible that the underground pipe run is leaking.
@@TinkeringNerd update. The top of the pump where it threads into the 1" pipe was cracked Causing water to leak out.
Elite Edi it sucks that you had to pull it up to find out. Was it plastic that cracked?
@@TinkeringNerd yes it was the plastic coupler on top of Myers pump the pump had a date on it and it was 1995. So I'm assuming that's when it was put in and never touched again. I'm glad it happened because at least now I know I have a brand new pump in it. Thanks for your help and god bless sir
That plastic fitting is the engineered failure mode, to promote sales of new pumps.
You are very welcome!
Cheers.
You on city water or well , there’s a difference … supplied by the city ( which they charge you for and are responsible ) or well and you maintain ???
You should consider putting your filters after the pressure switch so if the filters clog then it will shut the pump off. Otherwise, if your filters are before the pressure switch they will block flow if they clog and the pump will keep running. The water flow cools the pump so the pump may run with no flow as it tries to meet the pressure switch and burn up.
Thank you for commenting. If you watch the whole video, you’ll see me addressing this potential issue.