Replacing Bearings In A Bottom Bracket
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- Опубликовано: 23 апр 2014
- I could feel some play in the bottom bracket that I could feel when I moved the cranks. I probably could have just adjusted the adjustable cup, But I wasn't sure what the issue was. It could have been worn bearings, or some sort of damage. But I wouldn't know that until I opened it up. So if I was going to open it up, I might as well clean and lube everything and replace the bearings. So that is what I did.
Some tools used in this video:
Park Tool Compact Crank Puller:
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASI...
Park Tool HCW-5 Lock Ring Spanner:
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASI...
Park Tool SPA-2 Cluster Cone Pin Spanner (Red)
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASI...
Park Tool HCW-4 Box End and Pin Spanner Crank Wrench (36mm)
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASI...
Bicycle Research Crank Arm Thread Chaser, TC-8:
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASI...
Dualco Grease Gun with Short Nozzle:
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASI...
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👍Great tutorial, points to remember are drive side tightens counter- clockwise & bearings install cage closed side facing in (towards frame). If your bottom bracket doesn't have plastic sleeve, you can seal frame using a dab of silicone! I use anti-seize on threads rather than grease.
Simply brilliant. As clear as clear could be while maintaining pace and always providing the thought process. Many thanks.
Thanks, man! You helped me get an extremely stuck fixed bottom bracket off before I destroyed the Packtool BBT-22.
It was a sealed cartridge so I had to use a big ass socket over the spindle, and a woodshop style clamp to hold that Fn tool in place while I used a cheater pipe to break the damn thing loose!
Great video, thank RJ! This step-by-step video made it simple for me to fix my old bike with new bearings. It rides like new again, thanks!
Wow!! Thanks. I recently purchased an old mountain bike and definitely have wobble in the crankset as in you can grab both arms and wobble the whole thing a bit up and down. Now I know where to start. I don't have the tools today but they really aren't that much and I had no idea it was that easy to replace bearings. I thought the whole bottom bracket was one piece, bearings and all, and you either replaced the whole thing or not. BTW, this same bike came with Altus BR-CT90 brakes, broken grey housings and all. But, I watched your video (and several by other people) and found it pretty easy to replace them with the CT-91's like you showed. Not a single curse word. Thanks again.
Some of the newer ones are Cartridge bottom brackets and are one unit.
Thanks for the video! Great as always.
thank you very much for this very useful and detailed video!
RJ your the guy ✌️😎 who always comes to rescue ✨✨✨ ,you always have the solutions love to watch your vids ✌️
Excellent tips as you went thru b/b service, shame it wasn't a bit more challenging, hee-hee. Thanks for itemising the tool recommendations
Very fine video. Well done.
Great job RJ. thank you
It was really helpful !!! Thank You !!!
What a fantastic video, very informative, I was worried about removing mine as I wasnt sure how to do it, but this has shown me exactly what needs to be done, well done and have subscribed and given you a like, well deserved, Thanks again..
This is a great video.
My bike is a bit less than 20 years old and needs a bit of service. (The bottom bracket seized)
Thanks to this clear video I got the adjustable cup off and found the bone dry bearings waiting for me. I need a better wrench for the drive side lock ring, but I'm getting there.
Not captive bearings, buy the way. Five little balls rolled off into the darkness. I'll have to find them tomorrow when it's light out. Considering the problem, I'm expecting to take them into the shop and buy new bearings anyway.
Yes, I recommend buying new ball bearings. They are cheap. Or maybe buy a cartridge bottom bracket. ruclips.net/video/1BrVjDFqotE/видео.html
what a great video. Thanks!
Guillaume Bourdel, the cranks are pressed on. You want them to be "stuck" onto the spindle. The cranks are held on by friction. If you grease them, it would allow you to tighten the bolt more and press the crank on to the spindle farther possibly damaging the crank and/or spindle.
Ok so that was counterproductive. I initially thought the cranks were to be tightened very well so I greased the whole thing and it would make the removal a bit easier by preventing rust formation with the grease :-)
Thanks as usual!
Nice video!
I was wondering why you recommend not t put grease on spindle and/or in the square hole of the crank. I usually do it and wondered if it was wrong :)
Cheers!
Thank you very much!
Hi RJ I have just change the bottom bracket on my very old mountain bike as the crank was clicking recently put a new chain on change the rear cassette five gears and you can still feel noise as you pedal very slight clicking I am stumped what to look for next please could you advise thanks a lot Ian
That helped. Just ordered the park tool HCW-4. I really didn't want to throw that kind of money at a special tool, but I couldn't get the fixed cup off with a big crescent or channel locks. Nice to know it's reverse style threads. It makes me mad that they cranked the cup on there so dang tight. I'll have to bump it loose with a sledge hammer. GRRRR!!!
They are supposed to be tight. Or they will come loose.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I agree, but not so tight that basic hand tools can't get it off. This bike I'm working on was thrown together in China with an impact wrench. The ball bearings in the freewheel left dimples in the raceway and the headset was gritty from the bearing pre-load being way too high. I appreciate your videos, I've got the bike working better as a result. :)
hcw4 or a good quality adjustable spanner is the question..16 pounds sterling for the hcw4 is not cheap,
bearing in mind these are old bearing systems that im hoping to get away from...but dont seem to be.
...i just cant decide...how durable are they buddy?..they dont flex?..what would you have done if it was tight?
I need to do this. I want to do it myself but I'm not sure it's worth buying all the tools. I guess I'm off to shop for tools to see if it's worth it. I'm sure my bike shop could do this but they have about a 2 week wait.
Nice hook wrench you have there, with 3 hooks! I guess this wouldn't work on a lock ring with 4 notches though?
I once had to use a 3-jaw gear puller to remove the crankset because of all the gunk inside the threads. It did the job, but the puller warped the crankset and I had to throw it away. So, for future reference, where can I purchase this "chaser" contraption at 1:42? I'm assuming the internal bolt is M8 and the outer bolt being M22?
Excellent Sir!!!
Hello again. I have found out after watching this video that my caged bearings in my own bike were put in the wrong way round and got chewed up inside the bottom bracket,in a short period of time. My friend did my repairs and i shall tell him he did it wrong and i will repair my bike myself with the help of your excellent video.Thank you
ruclips.net/video/61Gygv82DAM/видео.html
Hi RJm thanks for the video, this one is superb. I tiny question: why i my bottom bracket always loosing up? Not enough tight the lock ring? Or what could be the problem?
Many thanks
kiflincs Could be it's not tight enough. Is it a low end bike? They are made with cheaper parts and stuff like that is expected.
Great video! What kind of grease did you use?
Hi Rj, I am doing this myself and the video was quite helpful. At the end, when putting the cranks once again, shouldn't the amount of tightening be adjusted so that both cranks end up at the same separation with respect to the frame? I was thinking to use the distance from the inside of the crank to the chainstay tube as an indicator, then rotate 180 degrees and do the same with the opposite crank and tube. However, the non-drive side seems to need too much tightening and I am afraid to tighten it more. At the same time, I would think them being symmetric is important. Any suggestions?
You need to screw the fixed cup (sprocket side) all the way in. If your crank axle is sticking out by the wrong amount on each side, it's possible you have an asymetric axle, and you may have put it in the wrong way round..
4:42 where can I find those specific bearings. the cage was all smashed and mangled. The opposite side was in decent shape
Thanks
I see now there are several different methods how to disassemble the bottom bracket. How many have you encountered?
Shrug. Different BBs are disassembled in different ways I guess.
Thank you. Would you recommend changing the bottom bracket bearings from caged bearings to loose ball bearings? I watched your headset video where you converted that to loose ball bearings. Is it the same process for the bottom bracket?(Removing a bearing from the cage, and purchasing the same size.)
Yeah, it would be done in pretty much the same way. I have never done it. But Sheldon Brown on his website recommends it. So maybe I will do a video on it.
That would be great. Thank you so much for answering back. Your videos are incredibly helpful.
Thx sir
I took out my campagnolo mirage bb and had some rust on it. My question is.. If I clean it from rust, can I use it again? Thanks :)
Can you replace the individual ball bearings?
Hi. I did the overhaul like you said , but when i finally try to adjust the axis , i could feel there is play on axis however i turned .Even the cranks are tight but there is still play on axis, What could be the problem ?
Fixed cup is fun? Have I got a job for you! I used the 5/8" nut-bolt-lockwashers trick and could not budge it. When I applied my Ingersol 2235 impact to it, we got about an eighth of a turn and then it froze again. Lots of work to get it budge back and forth an eighth of turn or less. Aluminum frame. What should I do?
hellow is it possible to replace ball bearings with sealed bearings? if its ok what would be the size?
without watching this video you would definitely struggle doing this job, thank you.
great vid I have tightened crank bolt several times keeps coming loose the crank bolt is as tight as I can get it as is the lock ring, have wobble on pedals about every 10 kilometre, how can I fix this permantly I have only worked on the none drive side the opposite side to the gears thinking of using locktight what do you think when I first fix it is great the bike is only 2 years old and cheap to see if I would use it regularly before I buy a reasonable good bike, I am 64 so not racing or anything just exercise
Could be the mating surfaces in the crank arms are damaged. I can't give you a definitive answer without working on the bike. Maybe take it to a shop to have them look at it.
thanks for your reply cheers
dude you rock and i just subed.. was wondering have you ever worked on a bike from Bikes direct? i dont have much money to blow on a name brand road bike and ive been reading good things about BD's Motobecane bikes..
also can i ask which bike work stand you have?
thanks in advance and keep the vids coming..
Never heard of them. I buy used bikes. I avoid cheap brand bikes. They are junk with junk components and not fun to work on. I find many quality bikes in thrift stores and on craigslist for pretty cheap. I'd rather have a good used bike than a cheap new bike.
would it be a bad idea to use an adjustable wrench instead of the park hcw-4 tool?
I have done it. It doesn't hold quite as well. And you will need a pretty big one.
I need help on modern components, please!
what kind of grease do you use for the bearings and cups?
Marine grease.
Im trying to change an old bottom bracket using park tool SPA-1 pin spanner but it is completely frozen.... How do I proceed from here ?
I am assuming the adjust cup. You might try the pin spanner on this: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000AOA2G8/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
What's a alternate tool if u don't have a pin spanner?
Make one from a piece of wire hanger.
I have a Trek bike - 68mm shell with a shimano 7 speed Hyperglide cassette, brakes, etc, from 1992 - what type of tool will I most likely need to remove the BB? Just hoping that there was a standard design back then. It has a three ring(21 speed) front crank set and is all stock.
To be honest, I don't know off hand. I have worked on a variety of Treks, and they vary. You should be able to see the BB cups well enough without even having to remove the cranks, to see what tools you might need.
If you send me a photo of what the outside of the cups look like, I might be able to tell you.
Thanks for the response, it is a Trek 850 Antelope - just found a video of this bike on RUclips by Zalsentzer - Trek 850 phase 2b - that has a view of the BB w/o the crank arm. Thanks again shyflirt1.
Mike S If that is what the bottom bracket on your bike looks like, then you have a sealed cartridge bottom bracket, and this is the tool you will need. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001A0AIAG/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
This video shows removing and installing one of those: How To Remove/Install Sealed Cartridge Bottom Bracket
What size cage bearings did you use for this job.
You need to match the ones you have. Go to a bike shop.
have to use lubricant to use tap tool
I hope i got more tool😔
Could those berings be used for the hub in the back wheel
ruclips.net/video/_axwV6sfaAs/видео.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy yea im sorry but that vid didn't anwser my question I wanted to know if u can use caged berings in the back hub😅
@@netherstone3161 Loose bearings are better than caged bearings. Caged bearings are used to reduce cost because the labor in the factory is easier/faster. That is why they are usually found in cheap low end bikes.
Thanks buddie..bama boy
Why do the bearings go in with the cage facing the cone nut of the spindle?
ruclips.net/video/61Gygv82DAM/видео.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks RJ. You the man!
How do I know the size of my bearings to order online
For ball bearings, use a bearing gauge to measure them: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000OZBK82/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
For caged bearings. it's better to take them to a bike shop and have them match them side by side with other caged bearings, or match them with bearings in a catalog.
Thank you Rj I always love your video
Mine has so much play, it kinda flip/flops a bit. So my bearings are shot to hell
10:18 full volume
where are the gloves!!!
The crank arms on my bike move when I try to pedal, but the chainring does not? What's wrong with my bike? Please help, thanks.
It kind of sounds like you might have a bike with a Shimano Front Freewheel System setup that isn't catching. What kind of bike is it?
RJ The Bike Guy I'm not sure, it doesn't have the model stickers, but I've been told it has Shimano 21-speed Gears with Microshift Dual-Index Rotational Shifters.
Without more to go on, I can't really help you. Maybe you can post some photos of the bike over on my facebook page or something?
RJ The Bike Guy Should I inbox you?
Just post it on my page.
There are zillion of different BB assembly.. wth bike industry.. really?
next time try use some WD40 instead of dry attempt taking it off...